Layerneer

We are also interested in seeing additional top/bottom pattern options in Cura. We have had several customers who use these patterns for decorative purposes on the top/bottom of their parts. We have to switch from our Ultimaker and Cura to a different platform to run adhesion simulations on these additional patterns. This usually requires maintaining an additional supply of 1.75mm filament for the wide variety of filament types that need to be tested in order to run these patterns on those other machines.

I won't clutter the thread regarding adhesion solutions. With both solutions, you should be able to print the benchy without a brim, and you should be able to remove the part with out tools. Usually they come off by themselves, and the bottom comes out glass smooth. I just replaced some belts on an older S5 and printed a benchy for a shake down run. Removed it with no force, and the bottom is flawless. No need to cut away brim. One other reason to stick with glass is that the XY calibration routine requires you to print a pattern on the surface of the glass. Then, you place the glass over the calibration sheet. You have to see through the bed to do this, so glass is your only option here.

Thanks! I was able to pry it apart pretty easily with a small flat screw driver. Slipping the screw driver between the two halves, I was able to see the legs of the internal tabs. Then, I pressed in slightly on the legs with the screw driver while pulling it apart. Swapping to the old bushing sleeve and reassembling was pretty easy. The belt and spring stayed in position. I attached pictures of the open one, and pictures of the faulty bushing. It has gouges and abrasions on both ends, and it skewed the shape of the opening. Should be back up and running.

Can the newer white plastic versions of the S5 belt sliding blocks be disassembled without breaking the plastic? I'm in the middle of installing new belts. I purchased a new belt kit from a reputable supplier earlier this year, but I'm just now getting around to installing it. One of the X axis long belt sliding blocks seems to have an issue with the bushing. It will not allow the rod to be inserted. The bushing is either too small, or possibly misshapen. The bushings in the other three were all fine and allowed the rods to pass through with no problems. The original sliding blocks were the black ones with plastic clips. I have removed the bushing from one of the original sliding blocks. If possible, I would like to install the original bushing into the newer sliding block. There are no external clips on the newer sliding blocks, so prying it open seems like it might break the block in the process. Thanks, Jeff

Binder clips work well. I do have concerns about binder clips damaging the heating element under the bed over time. I started using some of these clips because they have silicone protective boots. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08LGGBDGY I put 6 to 8 of them. You won't be able to put any in the back, because the plastic back cover gets in the way, so I put 6 to 8 clips around the bed. For your situation, it would be perfectly fine to start off with your stock glass, or a 4mm boro bed, using your stock clips, and some adhesion/release formula. Then, if it doesn't meet your needs you could remove the stock bed clips and add modified surfaces.

Bed leveling with thicker glass works well. Unfortunately, the thicker glass requires removing the stock bed clips. We removed ours because we also test various surfaces, including magnetic ones. We put a magnetic sticker on one of our stock glass beds. This allows us to attach magnetic surfaces to that, rather than have a permanent magnetic sticker stuck directly to our aluminum bed. We can flip it over and use the glass side as well, but usually just switch to our thicker glass surface when testing prints on glass. We buy custom cut 3/16 thick NeoCeram glass from a place called One Day Glass. It measures around 5mm thick with calipers. It is a ceramic glass with low thermal expansion coefficients like borosilicate. It is expensive. About $112 for a 14" x 10 15/16" piece with pencil polished edges. You can probably get one from a local glass supply store, and save on shipping cost. NeoCeram is used for fireplace applications. If you go with borosilicate, then I wouldn't go less than 4mm thick. You can probably get away with the stock clips if you use 4mm borosilicate.

We have seen large parts warp as they cool if they are released too early from the build plate. This can occur with flexible build surfaces, when someone flexes to remove a part while it is still cooling down. It is less of an issue with smaller parts on a flexible build plate. However, we have found most flexible surfaces are not as good at maintaining adhesion for intricate support structures and parts with small footprints. Glass has received a bad reputation due to parts not sticking, or parts sticking too well and taking chunks out of the glass. Reports of broken glass beds are usually a result of thermal shock to tempered glass, or from the extreme forces that occur when a plastic part is shrinking during the cooling process. Especially when the bed has scratches from using tools to remove parts. Those forces from the shrinking part get focussed on the scratches, which is how glass cutting works. Score the surface and apply pressure to break the glass. All of the above issues with glass can be solved by using a borosilicate glass bed, and a surface coating that acts as an adhesion promoter at hot temperatures, and a release agent when the part cools. We also used Ultimaker printers with glass beds to develop a surface coating to solve those challenges. In most scenarios, you can avoid using brims and rafts. Parts release easily when cooled down. The stock glass beds work well. However, we do prefer thicker borosilicate glass over the stock glass. We have observed instances where a part has not released from a bed during cool down because the actual glass warped as the cooling part shrank. The thicker glass is less likely to deform as the part shrinks, so the part releases as expected. It will hold the part until it has cooled and then release it. The borosilicate is also not prone to thermal shock, so you can pull the glass bed off the hot printer and set it on a cold granite counter top without worry of it shattering.

For the benefit of those that encountered this issue, I replaced the power supply with the recommended GST220A24-R7B and the problem appears to be resolved.

Did the power supply resolve the issue? I'm having the same issue on our Ultimaker 3 Extended.