ndsugi

thanks for the help here, bit late replying. The 90 percent flow on the supports is a key tip, I think that was one of the last things I hadn't adjusted. That with the roof layer height correct depending on the filament, the supports peel off for the most part.

I've been reworking this model trying to get it designed optimally for 3d printing (FDM w/ PLA). After a few not so great print attempts I am wondering if anyone has any tips for me, I have pictures here, and also a 3mf cura file if anyone feels like taking a look. It seems like my supports are either not adhering enough to create a clean underside final layer finish, or too stuck and a pain to remove, sometimes causing damage especially on a model like this. Should I just completely remodel this one? Or is there a clever way to print this in one go that I am missing. Tried tree supports and regular so far, both the touching build plate and everywhere setting. I don't think the everywhere setting is good when there is designs like the mouth and teeth, because the supports get impossibly trapped in there, but with this type of design with protruding overhangs at different spots I don't think I have a choice. misogimask.3mf

Please delete

@GregValiant you're an angel, I was very close to entering this years UM forum printer throwing contest. I copied your profile, but kept some from mine and voila! Amazed that it works so clean, no more drooping, minimal blobs, nearly no strings at all! Small details are amazing, although things like the tiny satellite dish on the boat roof still look all mushy, compared again to the mk3s. But everything else is actually better than the results on my uncles prusa, even less stringing and better detail clarity, especially on the ladder and the itty bitty box on the left side. And this was .2mm! I think I prefer .12 or .14mm but its hard to distinguish aside from the texture produced for subsequent painting. I really wish i knew what exactly it was that made such a difference, I was wondering about acceleration control being enabled at 1000% for most parameters, this seems to make my print head move much more like the prusa, fast and efficient, which may reduce stringing as well? Could be turning zhop, coasting and bride settings off, but to be honest i dont want to go back to the 9th circle of calibration-hell, I am an artist afterall and really am happy to finally get back to sculpting and hopefully producing some nice finished work. If you have any idea about getting that mushy tiny top most part dialed in, please let me know, otherwise thank you again so much for the assistance. I need to make a consolidated post about the kobra Plus/max as there have been many steps necessary to get this to print as i like and your profile suggestions have been the final touches. heres some photos, you can see the succession of melting-blob-boats to the final red boat (sorry red doesn't photograph so well for detail).

thanks for the profile @GregValiant, i am currently printing a few tests off as we speak.. and they look good so far. Noticed you have bridge settings off, and coasting off as well, do you prefer it like that or is it very project based? I figured bridge settings enabled would help with drooping overhangs.

hey FaithV, I appreciate the consideration but that's not the issue here, as this is a benchmark test print, meaning its meant to test certain parameters and surfaces to calibrate your printer and profile. You're just barely beginning your super-fun-totally-not-at-all-tedious Cura learning experience, I think you should maybe wait a little bit until you feel yourself ready to offer advice. No hard feelings just a friendly suggestion.

Thanks for the assistance Kman! This was my very first finished project in Zbrush so when I was making it at the time, I was not considering all the necessary steps you should take along the way to sculpt a printable model. I've learned a lot since but I consider myself still very new to all of this. I have a few questions before I attempt to go back to this file and see if I can fix some of the void issues and adjusting the minimum thickness in those parts you pointed out. 1. If the STL is scaled in the slicer, does it matter what size it is? Is scaling it in Cura degrading the original work? I can go back and use Scale plugin in zbrush is that's something I have overlooked. 2. Should I consider just mounting the mask onto a bust/head and reworking the model to be less front/back and more mostly the front. As in boolian/fuse the rear of the mask into a solid? I don't know how I could fill in the other voids, particularly in the feathery blooms. If the finer long pieces in the bottom portion of the mask are too thin, perhaps fusing it into a face for further work is my only option.

So i've printed out and installed some fans shrouds (from the first link) to see if it would have any difference, and it's kind hard to say, perhaps it's even worse? I have started printing just the top of that boat benchy because I'm getting perfect results in all other areas except the top most portion. I wonder if maybe i should consider getting some 5010 fans to replace the stock ones, there is actually 3 fans but I don't think they are positioned very well. But! Before I do that, anyone who has good experience with Cura and has dialed in their own profiles for quality over speed, and doesn't mind taking a look at what I've been working with in my own custom profile.. would be much appreciated. I just spent the evening swapping filaments, turning off/on z-hop, changing retraction up and down, experimenting with the extrusion distance window, testing maximum resolution/deviation, trying upping and lowering temperatures, speed. I really just want to know if this is my profile or if it's either - fans not doing there job cooling the finer detailed parts, or my extruder is perhaps not working consistently and smoothly. If it's a minor upgrade I need to consider I have sunk so much time into the damn thing I wouldn't mind seeing it through... and then next time never buying one of these ever again. For the record, everything else seems well calibrated, z-hop is dialed in to give beautiful first layers, tensions on belts seem to be where they need as far as I know. What is killing me is seams ruining the details, stringing in between those details, sagging windows/ladders like Greg mentioned, rough edges again from seams. I've seen what some lower end non-Prusa printers can achieve so I know i should be able to get myself sorted.. Here's the profile: Printer is a Kobra Plus, .4mm e3d nozzle x, range of filaments that seem to work fine on my uncles MK3s+ i use as a control. ndsugiCuraProfile.3mf

click support on - support types are in a pull down menu. You need to adjust retraction if you're getting stringing between the multiple prints.

They seem to be working fine, but good point.. they are dual 4010 fans however i found a guy saying that they aren't directing the cooling very effectively, im gonna print these out and try them. https://thangs.com/designer/MandicReally/3d-model/Anycubic Vyper %26 Kobra Max Part Cooling Duct UPGRADE! - Improved print quality-68268 also found these, if you suggest maybe upgrading the fans? will better cooling give me less stringing and higher detail accuracy? https://thangs.com/designer/goldingr6260001/3d-model/Kobra Max Hot End Shroud.stl-205780 another: https://www.printables.com/model/217846-vkd15-kobra-max-vyper-dual-5015-part-cooling-shrou

Ok so, i have made considerable progress, switched to 5.0 from 5.1 made a difference for some reason, found .2mm z offset in cura was needed, extruder knob needed to be tightened much higher than the manual recommended, few other settings tuned, swapped to a e3d nozzle x steel, calibrated nozzle and bed temps, tested many filaments with different temps to make sure its not that, (steel nozzle allows for almost any temp without stringing on the tower test?? yes the temps were changing per layer i was watching). Retraction and retraction speed tower tell me my settings are good... lovely quality on most surfaces but im still really stuck on getting these blobby, stringy issues resolved as i believe this printer should be able to do better from other prints I've seen. Temp for this was 200, speed 50, pla, all the usual suspects for reducing stringing and heightening detail were on in cura. Can someone suggest what I may be missing?

here's the a-b comparing my kobra plus w/ Cura profile to a mk3s+ w/ prusaslicer. Very similar profile settings, nozzles both .4 set to .1mm layer height for the test.

Ok here goes, it's my birthday tomorrow and I would like nothing more than to get a perfect print! btw Here is a few other photos of my offset calibration which appears to have good z offset at some points while problematic at others, and also a bed leveling calibration shape showing huge problems on the left side of the plate (photo is flipped), I could barely clean the filament off. I have opened a ticket with anycubic to see if that is a manufacturer issue or something on my end. I tried cura 5.0, and much less stringing, but also had to stop and restart the print 3 times because the hotend was moving around like it was working but no filaments was coming out. Final photos show that calibration model w/ 5.0. Not to add too much to the list.. but when a-bing my print to a mk3s+ print with as identical settings as possible, i noticed the mk3 has such better detail and definition, especially how it prints the letters first layers allowing full clean separation in the lettering. How can I increase my detail and overall quality? AKMAX_3D_test_V3_0.4mm.3mf AKMAX_simple_boat5.3mf AKMAX_Z_Offset_Test.3mf

Using Pla. I'm sort of glad to hear its 5.1, as ive tried everything, every setting, temp calibration, flow, retraction calibration, e steps etc. Have you talked to anyone official regarding this? How many other users are having these problems?