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PizzaTijd

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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker S5

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  1. I only have it enabled in the per model setting for the "Eraser" block. Are you sure that it's not ironing the spots you marked? It might not show it as a specific ironing layer, but may show in the same layer as the normal top layer. The two images I have added show what the top layer looks like for a little dummy model I made. To simulate top layers at several heights (like you have) there are different top surfaces at different heights off-screen. Here shows the layer about halfway through as it finished the regular top layer, before ironing and here it shows the head going over the same area again - the actual ironing - in the same layer. Otherwise you might also want to double-check that the "Eraser" block is actually intersecting with the desired surfaces properly (starting a bit under, and ending a bit above). Edit: and just to be clear; I have all other ironing-related settings turned OFF in the regular settings
  2. There is! Place a support blocker, stretch it so that it comes into contact only with the top surfaces you want to iron (so in this case the block should start slightly below surface B, and end just above surface B and below surface A, make sure it also starts above surface C). Go to "Per Model Settings" while having your block selected -> Modify settings for overlaps -> set it to "Cutting mesh" -> select settings -> look for "enable ironing" -> click "Enable Ironing". If you require any specific ironing settings make sure to also tick those boxes as needed. This *should* make it so that only the top surfaces within the "support blocker" area are being ironed. Edit: corrected the letters
  3. While I have never used the setting myself, I know of the following: Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code -> "Display Filename And Layer On LCD". There is also a "show progress" variant, but judging by the settings in that one it'll show time remaining and/or the percentage it's at.
  4. Drying your filament might also help. 'wet' materials can also cause unpredictable/worse printing behavior.
  5. Just FYI we use an S5 R1 to print TPU95A, and it works well without any modifications besides a little layer of glue on the glass plate. Tweaking some settings might be necessary depending on your print, but nothing major.
  6. That does make a lot more sense, I just kept the name the same since Cura still lists it as an "Eraser" object if you don't rename it manually
  7. -Add a support blocker block -Go to "Per model settings" -Set it to "Modify settings for Overlaps" -In the drop-down menu below it, set it to "Cutting Mesh" -In the bottom left corner, while having your "support blocker" block still selected, select your second extruder -Scale the "support blocker" to your required size, and set it to your required X/Y/Z That should print everything in the area you marked with your 2nd extruder. I call it a "support blocker" because it loses that functionality if you set it like this in the per-model settings.
  8. Yeah I would consider CPE+ to be a very situation-specific material, personally. For general use and easier prints you might want to take a look at PLA instead (provided it fits within your use case). It is by far the easiest material to print with, IMO.
  9. How much magigoo did you apply to the glass plate? I have found that if I don't apply a thick enough layer with CPE+, that the adhesion to the glass plate will still be so aggressive that it'll pull the glass right off either while cooling down (warping) or when removing the print manually. You have to make sure that when it shrinks or is removed, it pulls on the glue instead of the glass. I personally use a different brand glue stick, but I imagine that they're all just about the same. And in regards to the shrinking; I have found CPE+ to just be a generally tough material to print consistently with. Keep large tolerances, and maybe use walls thick enough to facilitate manual reworking later if necessary.
  10. A poorly placed first layer, because the material wasn't primed yet, causes worse adhesion. Therefore a skirt will provide better build plate adhesion.
  11. The reason it was 'invented' was exactly for the reasons it can be used for. It's not a mandatory setting. If you don't want or have to use it, don't use it. You just know the scenarios now where it is applicable.
  12. In my experience it just makes sure that your print head is primed; that the material is all ready to go, as it has already extruded the skirt before moving over to the print.
  13. Our printer doesn't even see this new firmware yet. Probably just means you installed it the second it was released. The patch notes always tend to lag behind a bit- they'll most likely be posted very soon.
  14. The option has returned in 5.3.1, and I kept it at the default (0) on that last print. On 5.3.0 the option was gone, so I'm not sure what it was set on by default then. Edit: I would like to add that the text for the disarm timeout does clearly say the following: "After this time steppers are going to disarm (meaning that they can easily lose their positions). Set this to 0 if you don't want to set any duration and disarm immediately"
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