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PizzaTijd last won the day on May 26
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Ultimaker S5
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Community Answers
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Really poor first layer infill / bottom
PizzaTijd replied to hphock's topic in Improve your 3D prints
Can confirm what @gr5 mentioned. We have this issue every now and then on our two S5's, and so far it has been either the feeder or the print core every time. If it's the feeder then it has likely ground down enough filament over time to clog up the feeder, reducing the traction it has on the filament. A simple clean should then fix it. We just take it apart and clean them with compressed air. If it's the print core, doing a couple hot & cold pulls should most likely be enough to resolve the issue completely. I would personally try that before sticking a needle in there, but that's just my opinion. -
Shouldn't it 'z hop' by default when printing support material? It should prevent the support nozzle from scraping over most, if not all, CF lines that have already been placed. I just checked my own default profiles and they all have 'z hop when retracted' enabled, and it should retract before travel moves. Edit: and support is printed first on every layer, meaning that technically the support nozzle should never even be able to touch the CF in the first place, even if it prints directly on top of it.
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You can retract all you want, but there will still be a bit of molten material in nozzles post-retraction. Try coasting, that will make it stop feeding material just a bit before travel moves, reducing stringing.
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What printer, and what material? And try posting the project file so others can take a peek at your settings. Without any of that info I can already recommend enabling coasting, it's a very lazy way to reduce it without having to tweak anything else (I would not count this as a fix for the root issue, though).
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I was there, in that thread even - and that whole debacle was the reason I originally made an account to post on here. They also gutted most of the functionality in the print queue, but that was fortunately restored after backlash. Just a bit of a shame they weren't able to re-implement the analytics page, even a lighter / less detailed one would have been nice.
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Glad to hear it's working alright now!
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Common issue on our side with TPU. For us it's always one of 2 issues: 1 (99%): just a false positive on the flow sensor. Unfortunately the only fix for this is to disable the flow sensor, which is something that we always do at this point with TPU. Nothing is actually wrong with your material/feeder, and it'll just proceed normally throughout the entire print with the flow sensor off. 2 (1%): the feeder was hungry and started to eat away at the filament. It doesn't sound like this is your issue. My recommendation is to just turn the flow sensor off when you're printing TPU, and if you start getting issue #2 to limit the maximum amount of retractions significantly. Edit: while I don't know the actual cause, I suspect that it's just the material stretching/flexing in such a way during its pass through the feeder that the flow sensor doesn't detect any material movement for a while. TPU is relatively flexible, after all.
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TPU is indeed a very difficult material to print with and get clean non-stringy prints. I've had the outer layer peel off like that, and the issue was wet filament and a dirty print head. It's been a while since I've had to dry it this way, but IIRC I just chucked the spool in an oven for a full day. (±60°C, pretty sure the plastic the spool is made of will deform if you go much higher - assuming it's Ultimaker material). I'm also making an assumption that you're running an ultimaker printer here - just use the built-in cleaning option for your print head, it should be under the maintenance settings somewhere. If you're using a different printer, just do a series of hot/cold pulls as described by your printer/print head manufacturer. Another "solution" could be to try ironing to get the outer layer to be attached again. This is more of a workaround since that surface will essentially be hot glued on the top layer only. Edit: The weird dots/spots on your black print might also be due to the way the Z-seam is set in your settings, but we can't be sure until you post the project file like Slashee mentioned. At least make sure it's not set to random!
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s5 head got stuck between case and plate
PizzaTijd replied to tomsi's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
Based 100% on personal experience it sure feels like #1 is a *lot* more common. This will help significantly: Note that the rubber band that I mentioned has to be replaced every now and then -
s5 head got stuck between case and plate
PizzaTijd replied to tomsi's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
This kind of failure can also happen when the whole front cover gets forced open by *any* means, not just when the whole print head assembly is already filled up with filament (it's only held shut by 2 relatively weak magnets). We've had this happen several times, once even forcing us to replace the whole print head assembly, and the other times it required careful surgery to remove the solidified dense spaghetti mass. Placing a rubber band over it in such a way that it helps to keep it shut has reduced the frequency of this failure type massively. Edit: but just to be clear, none of our failures have been as unfortunate as yours... none of our print beds have been taken out by rogue print assemblies yet -
Why do every 3d printer even need bed calibration?
PizzaTijd replied to urbanshark's topic in UltiMaker 3D printers
Perfectly flat surfaces do not exist - you will always have some deviations in the flatness / how level a surface is due to manufacturing tolerances on any printer. The more tight these tolerances become, the more expensive an item will be. Imagine having poor adhesion every print, or physically etching the first layer into your print bed with your print core because it slams into it every time just because you won the 'poor level' lottery. This also means you have to compensate for it by having the print head also move in the Z-axis within every layer if you would want to compensate for it, which unnecessarily complicates things when you can just have a couple screws on your print bed. -
Quick tangential question; where exactly did you get the cylindrical support blocker from? Is there a setting/plugin for this that I haven't found yet? Or do you just import a model that you configure yourself to act as one? I always just make do with a square one, but a circular one would be convenient every now and then.