PizzaTijd

Based 100% on personal experience it sure feels like #1 is a *lot* more common. This will help significantly: Note that the rubber band that I mentioned has to be replaced every now and then

This kind of failure can also happen when the whole front cover gets forced open by *any* means, not just when the whole print head assembly is already filled up with filament (it's only held shut by 2 relatively weak magnets). We've had this happen several times, once even forcing us to replace the whole print head assembly, and the other times it required careful surgery to remove the solidified dense spaghetti mass. Placing a rubber band over it in such a way that it helps to keep it shut has reduced the frequency of this failure type massively. Edit: but just to be clear, none of our failures have been as unfortunate as yours... none of our print beds have been taken out by rogue print assemblies yet

Perfectly flat surfaces do not exist - you will always have some deviations in the flatness / how level a surface is due to manufacturing tolerances on any printer. The more tight these tolerances become, the more expensive an item will be. Imagine having poor adhesion every print, or physically etching the first layer into your print bed with your print core because it slams into it every time just because you won the 'poor level' lottery. This also means you have to compensate for it by having the print head also move in the Z-axis within every layer if you would want to compensate for it, which unnecessarily complicates things when you can just have a couple screws on your print bed.

Quick tangential question; where exactly did you get the cylindrical support blocker from? Is there a setting/plugin for this that I haven't found yet? Or do you just import a model that you configure yourself to act as one? I always just make do with a square one, but a circular one would be convenient every now and then.

Might also be useful to know what material it is, exactly. Different materials adhere differently to the build plate. With PLA I personally never require a glue stick, while with TPU95A there's a 50/50 chance that my print will look the same as OP's if I don't use one.

Yes it is. Degree of absorption can depend on temperature and humidity. If you notice poor print quality, it can never hurt to dry your materials. That said, I've never had the need to dry (ultimaker) PLA yet. Other materials like Nylon and TPU95A did require drying, even after being left in a not-very-humid environment for not that long.

I would recommend googling "How to set bed and nozzle temperatures Ender 3D Pro", first couple hits are videos seemingly showing exactly what you're looking for...

Does it *only* happen to this proprietary part? If not, then try to replicate it with something that you are able to share.

I would recommend posting the project file(s) here so people can take a look at what you're trying to do

A lot of the functionality of the user management console was gutted in the 8.1.0 firmware update. They restored a bit of it after community backlash, but the maintenance overview and printer statistics have not been reintroduced. They *might* be in the digital factory environment, but I do not use this myself. Edit: the thread that talked about the changes at the time

this might help

I'm unsure of what you're trying to do, but the options you listed do the following: Skirt: a line placed around your print, practically functioning as a priming method to make sure your material is ready for your print when the skirt is done - a skirt is not attached to your print. Alternative to this is a brim, where it *is* connected to your print, and may help prevent warping and aid overall build plate adhesion. Outer wall is precisely that - the part of the wall that is on the outside part of your print. Inner wall is also precisely what it states, they're the material that are part of the wall but are on the inside of the print. What exactly do you define as outer infill?

Pictures or a video wouldn't hurt either. As slashee said, prime/purge towers are meant to look sloppy. Whenever I use it it's usually completely covered in oozed blobs of breakaway - which then don't end up on my proper print. Where it gets weird is that the blobs interfere with your print head enough to the point where it's pulling the plate with it. Prime towers are generally pretty thin in diameter and should just fall over if you apply any real sideways force on them - the amount of adhesion you would need to your build plate would be pretty impressive (ofc this is with my specific printer setup, which is an S5 with a heated glass build plate)

As a quick addition to the mold thing, I downloaded their models real quick and tested the mold feature on them; it seems to work flawlessly Pre-slice: Post-slice: Specific settings: mold is on, mold thickness 3mm, mold angle set to 90° Edit: and in case of that skull model you have in one of your screenshots, it should also create walls to cut out the eyes. I can't find the model for it, so I can't test it myself, but if it doesn't print anything for the eyes to attach to, move your model up a couple mm (make sure to turn off "drop down model"), and it'll create a bottom that they will be attached to.

The "Mold" feature under 'Special Modes' might be of use here (it's hidden by default in the printer settings). It'll only print walls that are directly outside of your model - allowing you to literally use it as a mold for your model. Only difference is that instead of using it to cast a part, you'll be using it to cut dough. The default thickness on my end was 5mm, which may be a tad much for a cookie cutter, but you can just tweak that and the wall angle to whatever you need it to be.