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3D printer

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  1. hi there, is BASF Ultrafuse ABS available in Marketplace? Unfortunatly I can't find it among the BASF materials available. I guess generic ABS settings will work as well - just wondering why it's not there. cheers, Jan
  2. We have been beginning our work creating American Made components, Its been a journey. We are just getting started. After PLA and ABS printing and looking for ways to get the best surfaces, I thought I would share some of it. https://imgur.com/z6X9wpk Matte Black looks great but the surface will require too much post-processing. Copper wire goes around the bobbin but the top surface obviously looks not great. After changing some settings and working with ABS, its maybe a bit soft or not resonant enough so we tried annealing it. Bad Idea! PLA anneals well but it is pretty strong from the get go. Black Tough PLA lead me to the Transparent PLA which won. imgur.com/a/YI3YhFg You can immediately tell by hearing the resonant properties what material is what. http://imgur.com/a/JUaB1Xz It has to have virtually no post processing, so we settled on 45 degree angle prints so the surface is all the same. Its worth noting that even after the S5 cleared the material out of the nozzle, it still printed the first part of the Transparent PLA with black ABS material, probably from the print head itself. http://imgur.com/a/jm960hy Annealing PLA causes some distortions that aren't acceptable with this application, so later today I am going to print a few completely walled off with PVA 100% support, 100% infill and toss it in the oven to see if it distorts. I hope not, because if it distorts in the process of creating the product, its going to be a problem.. I wound it up, got it ready to be used. Looks great for a first draft; http://imgur.com/a/NIS2Cim What do you think?
  3. Hallo zusammen, ich bin auf der suche nach ESD sicherem Material ( PET/ABS) das auch über eine NFC Schnittstelle verfügt. Aktuell verwende ich da "Kimya ABS-ESD 3D Filament | Kimya.fr" welches nicht mit der Material Station über NFC kompatibel ist (Kein NFC in der Rolle). Optimal wäre es wenn das ESD Material ähnlich wie die Ultimaker Rollen das NFC direkt im inneren der Rolle hat. Drucker hab ich sowohl den S6 wie den S5 mit Material Station. Danke schon mal im vor raus.😀
  4. Bonjour, j'ai un probléme nouveau avec Cura 4.10; a la couche 31, un décalage en Y d'environ 8 mm se manifeste a chaque impression que ce soir du PLA, du PETG; problème systématique de g.code. jamais je n'ai eu ces problèmes avec Cura 8, 9. je réinstalle ou je répare , je reviens au 4.9; impression avec carte SD donc pas de prob de connexion. il y a sans doute un article sur le sujet mais je ne comprends pas le type de formule pour trouver un dossier archivé..en français; en anglais, j'y arrive mais c'est fastidieux. merci pour votre compréhension
  5. Hi. This is the best stringing test result I've had so far in 2 years. I switched to BMG extruder, tried V6 and Chimera, ptfe lined, all metal, titanium polished bore, high temp PTFE, high rpm 40x40x20 heatsink fan and thermal paste on the heatbreak (it is ambient temp). Estep and Flow are calibrated. I tried all materials from different brands and also tried again drying them. I tried all retraction distance from 0 to 15mm and all speeds from 15mm/s to 80 mm/s and all temps, for PLA from 180 to 230. I even tried coasting and disabling part cooling fan. It didn't make any visible difference. Travel speed is 200mm/s... Any idea on what the hell could the issue be??? Because I am exhaust... It initially was a creality cr10S before all the mods I did trying to solve this.
  6. The company I work for recently bought about 20 printers, all UMS5 Pros I believe. We have been going through a lot of material and wasting some. I feel bad throwing away bad prints or the ends of spools. I have started looking at recycling or re extruding filament to print with again. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have looked at the Filabot but that is very expensive. The ReDeTec ProtoCycler seems to be a more reasonable priced machine. Do you recommend a different machine? How does the filament print after being re extruded? I know you can not mix materials. I mainly print with PETG but I do not know what the other people use. I would guess PLA or ABS. How long do these machines last? In order to justify it we would have to have the machine pay it self off over 4 years or less. With the ProtoCycler that is $73 a month or 1.5 spools (750 grams, $50 a spool) a month we would need to make. This seems reasonable with 20 printers making waste. Is there a company in the US that takes 3-D printer filament to re extrude or recycle? Does anyone pay for it? Just looking for ways to not be so wasteful with all the printer we are doing.
  7. Hello everyone. I designed a base for the arena for one of my experiments (see screenshot) but when I print it with my UM2+, the holes are completely ommited by the printer. As you can see, the holes are clearly visible and taken into account on Cura, yet are not present on the printed product (not a sigle trace is visible actually). Did anybody have encoutered this type of issue in the past and if yes, did you find the cause / solution to this type issue. Thank you in advance.
  8. Bonjour tout le monde, Je souhaiterai être sûr de ce que j'ai lu: On dit que la température de transition vitreuse est le fait de passer d'un état caoutchouteux à un état solide. On dit que la température de fusion est le fait de passer à un état solide à un état liquide. Donc, si je regarde la fiche du Nylon Ultimaker, il est dit que la transition vitreuse est de 50° et que la fusion est de 185-195. Concrètement, cela veut-il dire que la matière se durcit à partir de 50°C et qu'elle commence à se déformer si exposée à minimum 185°C ? Ais-je bien interprété ce qu'il est dit ?
  9. Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe to adapt an S3 printbed which would be already somewhat better with 130c° max heat Any idea that is feasible would be appreciated.. Greetings and stay save! Daniel
  10. Bonjour à tous. Je viens d'ajouter un Hard Core 3D Solex sur mon UM3. Je remarque que la goute au démarrage est bien plus lisse et écrasée. Ce qui me laisse penser que le fil extrudé avec une buse Acier est plus chaud qu'avec une buse laiton. A moins que ce soit le Core qui chauffe un peu plus... Avez-vous déjà constaté ce phénomène ? Utilisez-vous les mêmes températures avec de l'Acier ou du Laiton ? Merci.
  11. Bonjour à tous, Depuis le Covid de nombreuses pièces imprimées sont en contact avec la peau : visières, pinces nez, masques... Aussi je me pose des questions concernant l'innocuité des filaments 3D. Pensez-vous que le PLA ou le PETG ne posent pas de problème cutané ? Que pensez-vous des élastomères ? Avez-vous une expérience des matériaux biocompatibles ? Merci.
  12. Hallo zusammen, seit mehren Wochen benutzte ich das Ultimaker ABS nun schon Problemlos auf einen Ultimaker S5. Schlagartig lassen sich jetzt aber die Bauteile nicht mehr von dem Druckbett lösen. In folge dessen ist ein Glassdruckbett schon kapput gegangen. Ich drucke mit dem gleichen G-Code, der Wochenlang keine Probleme gemacht hat. Das Druckbett habe ich schon neu kalibriet und auch eine ganz neue Spule ABS verwendet. Beides brachte keine Änderung. Das Problem der zu starken Druckbetthaftung tritt bei anderen Materialien nicht so stark auf. Vielen Dank für die Hilfe
  13. I've been struggling with print quality using a newly installed volcano with a 0.8 mm nozzle. The extrusion stops a couple mm before the end of a layer and leaves gaps in the prints. It's as if coasting were turned on and set too long. I tried turning on coasting and setting a negative value, but Cura won't slice when I do that. How do I get it to extrude right to the end of the line? There is also a small gap that occurs during printing (marked "?") that I'll tackle after I get the bigger problem solved. I had a similar gap at the start of each layer, after a relatively long travel move. The infill is supposed to start at the perimeter, but there's about a 5 mm long gap between the perimeter and the start of the infill. I solved that by turning on retraction at 0.1 mm, and setting the retraction extra prime amount to 4 mm. I'm wondering if the surface tension of the molten filament is pulling the filament back up into the heater block with this large nozzle. I don't need to use retraction at all, and I have this problem with the plastic not starting exactly when it should, and stopping a little too soon. I did not see this behavior with a standard v6 heater block and a 0.4 mm nozzle. I did see similar behavior with the standard heater block and a 0.6 mm nozzle. I'm printing ABS, extruder temp is 270C, printing at a modest 50mm/sec, 150mm/sec travel. I would appreciate insight from the experts. Thanks!
  14. Hallo zusammen, ich hab zur Zeit Probleme mit dem Druck von Teilen auf dem UMS5. Bei dem Material handelt es sich um ABS Black von Ultimaker. Nach den Bottom-Layers kommt es, wie im nachfolgenden Bild zu sehen, zu mehreren fehlerhaften Infill-Schichten. Das Infill besteht aus 100% Fülldichte mit Linien als Muster. Das Phänomen ist im Übergang vom Infill zu den Top-Layer deutlich weniger bis gar nicht ausgeprägt. Bricht man dieses Teil senkrecht der Schichten auf, kann man das Problem genauer erkennen. Die Druckparameter sind: Düsentemperatur: 250 °C Druckbett: 85 °C Druckgewschindigkeit: 60 mm/s Anzahl Bottom- und Toplayer: 8 Fülldichte: 100% Füllmuster: Linien Schichtdicke: 0,15 mm Ich habe bereits folgende Parameter geändert: Düsentemperatur auf 260 °C erhöht Druckbett auf 100 °C erhöht Anzahl Bottom- und Toplayer variiert Füllmuster: Tri-Hexagonal, Dreiecke Schichtdicke auf 0,2 mm erhöht Bauteil um 90 Grad im Bauraum gedreht Allerdings erhalte ich weiterhin dieses Problem. Kann das etwas mit zu unterschiedlichen Temperaturgradienten der einzelnen Schichten zu tun haben, dass sie einfach nicht zu einer kompakten Schicht zusammenschmelzen können?
  15. Hallo allerseits 😀 Ich habe folgendes Angebot: Große Menge Form Futura Easyfill ABS-Filament 750 Gramm. Verschiedene Farben Alles noch in einer versiegelten Box. Normaler Verkaufspreis 19,95 Euro pro Rolle. Jetzt das ganze Los für 1000 Euro (7,00 € pro Rolle) oder 8.95 € pro Rolle. Ohne Versandkosten. Kostenloser Versand über 75,00 € zzgl. MwSt. Eine Abholung ist ebenfalls möglich. Ich höre gerne von dir! Grüße Patrick Patrick@iopbv.com
  16. Hoi allemaal 😀 Ik heb de volgende aanbieding: Grote partij Form Futura Easyfill ABS filament 750 gram. Diversen kleuren Alles nog in gesealde doos. Nieuwprijs 19,95 euro per rol. Nu de gehele partij voor 1000 euro (€5.00 per rol) of per rol €6.67. Exclusief BTW en verzendkosten. Gratis verzending boven €75.00 ex BTW. Afhalen kan ook. Ik hoor graag van je! Groeten Patrick 06-21871570 patrick@iopbv.com
  17. Hola, soy usuario de una impresora Ultimaker 2 y le cuesta extruir un ABS+ el cual es un abs que necesita un poco más de temperatura para que fluya bien, lo sé porque el mismo filamento se imprime correctamente en una Zortrax M200 a 270°C, lo único que sé es que se debe cambiar la pieza de PTFE por otra igual de un material más resistente al calor, sobre lo demás no sé si deben cambiar más piezas, así como editar el software para que me permita elevar la temperatura, si alguien lo ha hecho, le estaré muy agradecido si comparte su experiencia, saludos.
  18. Hi everyone, We have been having a problem with ABS prints breaking our print plates using the recommended settings. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also do you know if there is a way to keep your print plate warm overnight after a print finishes? Best & thank you, John
  19. Ok so I was doing a bunch of work to my printer last weekend including an E3D V6 hot end upgrade. The printer is an ender 3 pro that has an SKR mini v2 board, octoprint, enclosure, and more printing with makerbot ABS. After every change I would always test print a standing tower as pictured below. Once I installed the e3d v6 hot end my prints started looking extremely over-extruded and or too high temperature. I am using the exact same gcode as the previous towers (except for the short once pictured where I tried changing setting to fix the issue). The towers on the left of the picture are before and the ones on the right are after the upgrade. I am a little confused as why it would appear over-extruded as the extruder is calibrated and moving the same as before and it wasn’t slipping before with the old hotend. I have tried turning the temperature way down and that doesn’t seem to help either. It is noteworthy that while it looks like the tower are skinnier in some places and twisted that is because the nozzle is pulling the outer wall inwards on the next pass. The printer seems to be making the correct movements in the x-y direction so it is not a loose belt. Also the prints are the correct hight so it is not something with the z axis. i have read another thread about someone having the similar issues but there was no clear answer and he just turned down his extrusion rate by 20% to compensate. Thanks for the help!
  20. Hi! a while ago I have made this 8mm film scanner. Since I printed the parts on my UM2+ I thought I post it here. You can find the files and a more detailed article here: https://hackaday.io/project/167426-8mm-film-scanner In case you wonder why I used (Ultimaker) ABS and PLA - I originally printed all parts in PLA, but after some time figured out that the stepper motor gets too warm for the nearby parts, especially the cogwheel, and they start to deform slightly. So I switched to ABS for some of the parts and the problem was solved. In this project I learned a lot about the precision you can get out of the printer, especially using a 0.25mm nozzle for some of the more "critical" parts. Hope you find it interesting 🙂
  21. Hello All, I have two Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printers that I’ve worked with for several years off and on for small/medium sized prints in ABS and Polycarb. But I’ve always had issues from day one to get good quality part finishes with my printers, to the point where I found myself spending literally hours reprinting parts again and again to optimize the print profile to come out *mostly* decent. In the past day or so, I determined to spend time to look into the problem and really tune the printer to work well with ABS prints (Polycarb and PLA prints generally come out much better with little to no adjustment of the factory profile settings). So, I printed a series of the Calibration cubes from Thingiverse using the standard and Fine ABS print profile settings (with no modifications) to get a baseline to work from. I was wondering if some here could give me some tips on settings I can adjust to clean up some of the issues I’m having. Printer 1 has a 0.5 mm nozzle installed with a white ABS spool and Printer 2 has a 0.35 mm nozzle installed also with a white ABS spool (both Airwolf’s brand). I've attached images of the cubes printed from Printer 1 and 2 on both the Standard and Fine print profile settings (unmodified except for changing the nozzle size to 0.35 for printer two) Observations: Printer 1 - Standard ABS Profile Three of the four edges of the cube are not very sharp, but wavy. The layers of the cube seem to be a bit uneven The detail of the embossed lettering looks pretty uneven and jaggad at spots One can see the infill lines a bit poking through the sides Uneven, dull surface finish on the top Small pits in the sides of the letter Z in the top Printer 1 - Fine ABS Profile Sharpness and detail of lettering looks much better (makes sense, fine profile) Corners generally sharper and more even No more pitting in the Z on the top Still has dull, uneven surface finish on the top Some warping on the bottom (may be my fault for not using enough bed adhesive) Printer 2 - Standard ABS Profile All the same problems as Printer 1 but worse Looks like top surface got overheated (pit holes) It does seem to have a nicer, smoother schene due to the higher temperature Printer 2 - Fine ABS Profile Generally similar characteristics as Printer 1’s Fine profile cube Noticeably better layer surface finish and top surface finish Y letter looks better but X looks worse than Printer 1 This is what I see so far. I’m trying to see if there are some general tweaks I can make to both printers to improve the appearance and finish for parts. It’s clear that temperature is one factor (I know that Printer 2’s bed temperature seems to run a couple of degrees warmer than Printer 1 for the same setpoint, which could account for the surface finish differences. But questions I have are: How to sharpen the corners on all four sides, especially for the Standard profile setting? How to get smoother layer to layer stackups and top surface finish without causing surface pitting on the top layer? Are there any guides out there with systematic calibration test print I can use to dial in my settings? I'm hoping to eventually find a more systematic way to tweak things to minimize wasted time and materials. Any other observations/advice you can provide are extremely helpful! I’ve been putting off doing this for a while but really want to get much better prints with ABS without wasting lots of time and material for each individual part I make (especially large parts). Thanks! Jason O
  22. Hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit der Qualität an den Ecken des Bauteiles. Es tritt jeweils dort auf, wo ein Wechsel des Layers stattfindet. Und am Abschluss des Drucks an den letzten Layer verschmilzt das Material förmlich. Testwürfel etc werden perfekt gedruckt. Drucker: Ultimaker 3 Extended Material: Original Ultimaker ABS Schwarz Slicer: Cura 4.6.1 Ich hoffe es hat mit dem Export des Profiles geklappt. Sollten doch alle enthalten sein, dann wäre das benutzte ABS-ULTIMAKER-SEITENTEILE Ich würde mich freuen, wenn ihr einen Lösungsvorschlag habt. VG Michael ABS-Forum.curaprofile UM3E_KF-links.3mf
  23. bonjour, J'ai un soucis d'impression en double extrusion avec une S5 : J'imprime un ABS formfutura avec les support en breakaway. Mon soucis est que le breakaway bave et fait des filaments qui se retrouve dans la piece en ABS. De plus le breakaway bouloche et les amas se font attraper par la 1ere buse. Le breakaway est extremement difficile a retirer de la plaque en verre. ayant ventilé le breakaway, cela a provoqué de warping et des decolement de couche de l'abs. Comment peut on imprimer l'abs avec le breakaway ? Sans ventiler, le breakaway s'imprime t'il correctement ? Merci
  24. I'm interested in buying an S5 pro bundle for printing with ABS indoors without too much room ventilation. I'm concerned about volatile organic compounds (VOC), in addition to ultra fine particles (UFP). I have read that the S5 pro bundle includes a filter that removes up to 95% of UFPs. However, based on my understanding, VOCs are also emitted when printing with ABS. Is the filter system for the S5 pro bundle able to remove VOCs from air?
  25. I barely purchased my UM2 and am printing my first ABS print. I used default settings for ABS that were pre-set in the UM2 and the default settings via cura, except I customized the support settings, which should be non-related to the issue and I am printing with a raft. The layer height selected was FINE .1 default settings had the print speed at 50mm ABS used is IC3D. used glue on the glass and no warping so far, so that is not an issue at this time. bed has been leveled prior to print so that should not be an issue. Ive tried tweaking the settings mid print, and brought the nozzle temp down from 260 to 250, and material flow from 107% down to 100% as I figured it was possibly an issue of over extrusion. I have just now decided to turn off the fans as the default settings had the fans on at 40%. Now the print quality isn't terrible, but I also own a zortrax m200 and printing at a layer height of .14 on that machine with ABS, I get much smoother prints. Since Im using settings on the Ultimaker 2 at .1 layer height, I assumed it would be better quality or at the very least, hard to tell the difference between the two. This is not the case and the UM2 print seems to be printing with slightly uneven layers as the print lines are extremely noticeable. I will include pics to show what I mean and hopefully i can get some tips from those that would know. Thank you for any help you guys can provide.
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