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Found 48 results

  1. Hallo Community, ich habe folgendes Problem: Der Druck haftet gut am Druckbett, allerdings nicht in der rechten hinteren Ecke von vorne aus gesehen. Das heißt, je weiter ich das zu druckende Teil in Cura nach hinten und rechts verschiebe, desto größer die Ablösung während des Drucks. In einem relativ großen Bereich davor tritt dieses Problem nicht auf. Habe vorhin auch eine Temperaturmessung mit einem Infrarotlaser gemacht, dabei aber keine Ungleichverteilung festgestellt, außer dass es in der Mitte ein paar wenige Grad wärmer ist. Hat oder hatte schonmal jemand von euch dieses Problem? Meine Daten: Ultimaker 2 ABS-Filament Druckbetttemperatur 100 °C Wärmeisolation durch Klappe vorne und Haube obendrauf Druck erfolgt direkt auf die Glasplatte Druckplattenhaftungstyp Brim Ich hoffe ihr könnt mein Problem verstehen und freue mich auf hilfreiche Antworten 🙂 Danke schonmal MarraM
  2. TL;DR: How do I get ABS to stop warping for this box using an Ultimaker 3 (or 2+)? or XY problem version: How do I best print this box in a way that can withstand the heat of a car? Model Photos of results Background: I made a circuit to live in my car, and I designed a box to hold it. The box stl files are here with the primary bottom shell in BShell.stl and the top in TShell.stl. After some experimentation, I got this box to print reliably with PLA. Things I found to help included printing the shells one at a time, putting a layer of glue on the glass plate, using a front cover, and pre-heating the build plate. I also got less warping with a 0.2 layer height, but preferred the smoothness of 0.1, and was able to get a good result with it. Unfortunately, with my car parked in the sun, my PLA box got soft and deformed. I set out to try ABS. On my first attempt, I used the same techniques that worked well for PLA, but the part warped very quickly after I started and delaminated completely from the glue layer. Good thing I was watching since it would have damaged the print core if it kept going. Next I tried using an adhesion sheet. This gave me a really nice first layer, but after a while, it still lifted on the back right corner and created a bit of a mess. I made one more attempt and used 0.2mm layer height, since that helped me before. This time it didn't make a big mess, but I still got some lift on the same corner which made for some strange results. From what I've read, I'm doing all the right things to help ABS to not warp, I think this box is just a challenge because of the large flat bottom surface. Are there any additional things that would help? Certain tweaks to the settings, like bed temp, that might help this case? Other materials on the plate that might keep it from lifting? I'm a bit limited in chemicals I can use since I'm in a restricted space, and new chemicals require a whole process to be approved for safety, which makes trying new things hard. Would a higher quality ABS work better? Is Ultimaker brand ABS high quality? Alternatively, is there some other technique I could use, like a different material? Perhaps CPE? It seems like it's more temperature resistant than PLA. Perhaps it would be sufficient. Is it easier to print without warping? Thanks very much for any tips.
  3. jon_dhemen

    ABS serious wraping

    Hi there to everyone, I know this topic might not be a new, but I am really struggling to print ABS in our UM3. I don't really manage to get a proper bed adhesion. I followed the tips and instructions you can find online in the website (https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22226-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-abs), trying different methods for adhesion: 3D printing spray, glue stick, tape, perfectly cleaned bed glas,etc. I also to tried different printing settings: using the parameters that Cura has by default (80ºC of bed temperature for ABS) and I also modifying the bed temperature up to 100ºC. The material I am using is a standard ABS from Smart materials (https://smartmaterials3d.com/es/) and oru printer has the advanced 3D printing eclosure set. I know that printing ABS can be tricky and temperature drop downs are a key feature not to get wraping, but I tried different ways being particularly careful in the temperature issue inside the printer. And the result has been always the same: pieces get loosen even if the tape (for example) on the plate is still quite sticky. Has anyone the same problem?Any clue on how can I solve this?Could it be related to the ABS material itself (and/or its conservation)? Thanks in advance!
  4. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  5. Guillaume777

    Bicolore-Lettre-Typographie-fin

    Bonjour, j'aimerais affûté mes réglages pour une impression Bicolore sur UM3 avec Cura 3.0.4 Par contre je part avec deux contraintes, je joins ABS(Blanc) avec PLA(Vert). +Multi-impression entre 10 et 15 pièces sur le plateau. Les lettres sont de largeur 0.5 mm . J'ai testé en inférieur, 0.4 mm ça ne fonctionne pas. Les lettres d'adhères pas correctement si j'imprime sur la surface de dessus.(Je suppose que cela vient du mariage PLA et ABS) J'insert une couche (hauteur 0.06 mm) de PLA dans L'ABS. Les couches initiale, je les mises à 0.06 mm. Mon profil est de 0.06. Corrections: supprimer tous les trous est actif. Pour le test qui est sur la photo, mon filament était pas mal écrasé par le chargeur, trop serré.(je compte faire une autre test avec le filament net et chargeur plus détendu, mais j'ai une impression en cours) J'ai eu une nette différence en ajoutant les réglages suivant: Matériaux -Rétractation changement de couche -Degré supplémentaire de rétraction primaire Le reste de paramètre est par défaut.Normalement!^^ Merci
  6. Just as the title suggests (I'm not sure what to call it). When we do longer jobs (taller jobs, really), we see this repeated bending up of layers that creates separations fairly regularly up multiple sides of our objects. We tried printing at a higher temperature (270 up from 255) and enclosing the U3E with a cardboard box to keep heat from escaping, but it's still happening, which leads me to believe that either lack of heat isn't the cause, or we haven't committed far enough, but I don't want to break anything by making it hotter. Does anyone even know what to call this so I can search more myself? I tried cracks and warping but didn't find anything about this particular issue.
  7. Dunstonuk

    Tree Supports

    Hi I am trying to print a model that is Hollow inside, every time I load it into Curo with TREE supports it put these supports inside the model as well as outside the model. This will not work as the inside is inaccessible once the model is printed and I do not want a load of support material floating around inside it. How do I stop it putting supports on the inside? Also, how do I get it to raise the print head between movements, as it has caught on previous models and caused them to fall over?
  8. Hello friends i am using UM3 extended.I am using 3d printing for Investment casting pattern. For cost feasibility i mostly use 10% infill and below support setting Please share me your opinion and suggest me settings in cura. Issues: Supports are damaging part curvature surface I am extencively working on ABS
  9. I'm trying to smooth my ABS print with Acetone vapour but its not working. The ABS just softens and bleached white is some places. Any ideas? I'm using black Ultimaker original ABS filament.
  10. Hey there. I got great help last time, so hopefully will do so again. ? I'm printing lots of stuff on ABS with PVA support and have noticed, particularly on jobs where i DO generate support, that stuff is already cracking. I can take pics if needed, but don't really know how else to explain it. It's a completely flat surface with a hairline fracture in it. And there are several like it on each side of the object. And then yesterday we were printing a plane for another project and as it was printing the support, the support was coming up off the bed as it got thicker, which then made that side of the tail curve upward when it should have been flat. Is there something special to using the PVA support and / or ABS? I'm selecting those materials from the menu when I load them. The PVA is ultimaker branded, but the ABS is an off brand but has been fine on jobs without support. Thanks.
  11. Ok, I'll try to stay calm. I just spend €500 on an UM2 to 2+ upgrade, installed the latest Cura, put in a roll of official UM ABS and using the recommended settings. Frankly I bought this machine to print. Not to tinker endlessly with hundreds of settings. But I'll give it another try after 2 weeks of failing to print decently. I made a front/ top enclosure to keep the warmth in. I tried printing cooler and I get get poor layer adhesesion. This print is already way too weak for ABS. I think printing hotter may make support removal even more difficult. Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong here? I'd be much obliged. Thanks, Maarten
  12. Hey all, So we've been attempting to print recently on our Ultimaker 2+, with PLA, and we've had many issues. I've attached images of the latest print. As you can see, the initial layer quality is very poor. I had changed the initial layer height from 0.27mm to 0.2mm and this improved it from previous iterations but is still not great. We already use glue to stick all of our prints down. This could all be due to the nozzle we're using as we switched from a brass to a steel nozzle, both 0.4mm. But why would this cause everything to go haywire? Additionally the quality of the print itself is pretty bad. There's a lot of hairy parts where some of the hairs are 0.7mm and some of them are very very fine - all from a 0.4mm nozzle. Parts of the geometry of the print didn't print properly either. Any ideas what could be causing this kind of behavior? We've printed a lot over the past few months but the reliability of the printer has been getting worse and worse. We've also had issues printing with ABS. Nothing we try seems to get ABS to print well. It always cracks in multiple places, might start randomly producing spaghetti or just completely clogs up the nozzle. We've tried maybe 6 or 7 prints with ABS since we got the printer last year and we've never managed to get it working. We use the default settings in Cura most of the time for both PLA and ABS, though I've adjusted the temperature of the bed in the past to get better adhesion for the ABS - still no success though. Any suggestions would be great. Many thanks.
  13. BairdB

    Oven Drying Saftey Concerns

    For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  14. QuickOK

    HIPS: Easy profile configuration

    Material/Filament: MatterHackers 1kg 3.00mm HIPS (White) In CURA "Duplicate" the Generic ABS profile, but change print temp to 225C and speed (start at) 30mm/s. So far working well and no clogs, though this is my first print using it. I'd change Brand and Material, but unfortunately CURA doesn't seem to keep the settings. MODS or anyone else know if this is a bug? Good luck.
  15. alonso2138

    Heater error

    Hola imprimo con ABS . El problema es que al imprimir con la configuración predeterminada para ABS* si la temperatura sube más de 240 grados celsius se para la impresión y me sale ; "Heater error" .He leído en foros que la temperatura adecuada para el ABS es de 235 grados celsius. Mi teoría es que se amontona el material en el extrusor ya que lo tengo un poco obstruido. Gracias.? *La configuración que tengo: temp : 260 c bed temp: 90 c diameter : 2.85 mm flow : 107 % fan : 50 %
  16. Hi All, Recently my boss got a UM2+ for work projects, and we have been printing things recently in PLA, just kind of getting a feel for the printer and how it prints and works and such. Today we tried going to printing ABS on the printer, but I cant seem to get the prints to stick to the build plate. I am using a brim, and an adhesion modifier called wolfbite. We have had good luck with wolfbite on our previous printers. As the print was going, I was watching the buildplate temperature, and noticed that 1) it takes a long time to get to our desired build plate temp of 110C (We have had good success using this temp with our filament and getting prints to stay down), and 2) when the printer does get going after taking forever to warm the plate, it doesnt seem to hold that temp. It slowly works it way down to about 85C and just hangs out there, and then the filament shrinks and curls off of the bed till it comes off. Is there a reason it takes forever to get hot, and why it wont seem to hold the temperature? I cant sent the build temp in cura when i select the UM2+, so I have to manually set it once I start the print. Is there a setting somewhere that I dont know about? Thank You!
  17. Hi all, I find ALL my hole dimension are approx. 0.3mm smaller than the cad stl file. I printed 3, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 in ABS and PETG I used CURA 3.2.1 for my print and both materials had the same results for the holes, the outside dimension on the PETG was nearer to the stl cad size. If I use the scale option in Cura it just scales the outside and NOT the hole dimensions. Is there a plugin to fix this or have I to just increase Hole diameters to compensate, which is OK if I am to print my own design/drawn models. Awkward if I have to pass on information to 3rd parties about how they should adjust their hole sizes. Thanks for any ideas. hole size check.stl
  18. I've been struggling with print quality using a newly installed volcano with a 0.8 mm nozzle. The extrusion stops a couple mm before the end of a layer and leaves gaps in the prints. It's as if coasting were turned on and set too long. I tried turning on coasting and setting a negative value, but Cura won't slice when I do that. How do I get it to extrude right to the end of the line? There is also a small gap that occurs during printing (marked "?") that I'll tackle after I get the bigger problem solved. I had a similar gap at the start of each layer, after a relatively long travel move. The infill is supposed to start at the perimeter, but there's about a 5 mm long gap between the perimeter and the start of the infill. I solved that by turning on retraction at 0.1 mm, and setting the retraction extra prime amount to 4 mm. I'm wondering if the surface tension of the molten filament is pulling the filament back up into the heater block with this large nozzle. I don't need to use retraction at all, and I have this problem with the plastic not starting exactly when it should, and stopping a little too soon. I did not see this behavior with a standard v6 heater block and a 0.4 mm nozzle. I did see similar behavior with the standard heater block and a 0.6 mm nozzle. I'm printing ABS, extruder temp is 270C, printing at a modest 50mm/sec, 150mm/sec travel. I would appreciate insight from the experts. Thanks!
  19. Mathieu Kunetz

    Trouble with colored ABS from Neofil3D

    Hello, I'm currently trying to print various model in different colors and encoutered some problems with ABS materials from Neofil3D. I'm using an UM2+ printer and usually set the temperatures to 250 for the Nozzle and 100 for the buildplate, and the models print just fine if I use Ultimaker's filaments. However some colors I needed were not avaiable with Ultimaker so I bought two additional filaments from Neofil3D, and encountered two separate problem: ABS Lila from Neofil3D: Despite the same settings, the material does not adhere to the buildplate. M-ABS Sky blue from Neofil3D: The model printed, yet the structure was gritty on the side and the object in general was more fragile than it should be. Did you encounter the same kind of problems in the past and if so did you manage to resolve the issue by changing some settings ? Thank you in advance.
  20. LazyD

    ABS einstellung bei Cura

    Hallo, Ich verzweifel an den Einstellungen bzw an dem Druck von ABS. PLA hat bisher ganz gut funktioniert, aber bei ABS bekomme ich das curling oder wraping nicht in den Griff. zusätzlich wenn ich mit Brim arbeite haftet die Stützstrucktur dort nicht. Also ich hab einen Dublicator 6 und als Software Cura for Wanhao das Material ist 1.75 ABS schwarz und Drucke auf eine Glasplatte. Getestet Habe ich mit 0.1 schichtdicke -mit Brim dort hat wie gesagt die Stützstruktur keine Haftung, den Abstand hab ich schon verringert wenn ich ihn noch weniger mache bekomm ich den Druck nicht mehr vom Brim gelöst, Der Druck allerdings hält gut. - ohne Brim halten dünne kleine sachen zu schlecht - Hitze hab ich das Bett schon mit 90 und 100 crad getwestet und nozel mit 240 und mehr Könnt ihr mir mal sagen was ich wie einstellen sollte ? am liebsten alles Hänge mal ein Bild an> bild hier
  21. Hello everyone. I designed a base for the arena for one of my experiments (see screenshot) but when I print it with my UM2+, the holes are completely ommited by the printer. As you can see, the holes are clearly visible and taken into account on Cura, yet are not present on the printed product (not a sigle trace is visible actually). Did anybody have encoutered this type of issue in the past and if yes, did you find the cause / solution to this type issue. Thank you in advance.
  22. Halo the community, I am on an urgent job and i am trying to print PLA or ABS with my Ultimaker 2+. The problem is that, after a certain time the material stops extruding because a hole has been digged in the filament as shown on the attached picture. Most of the time the material even gets break inside the tube. I have tried changing the thightening in the feeder setting it on the two extremes but the result is same. can some one advice, please.
  23. Hey guys, I started experimenting with B.A.M. (+ ABS), but I was surprised to see that I can't go lower than 0.15 as layer height for standard profiles. What is the limiting factor here?
  24. Bonjour à tous et à toutes, : ) je suis à la recherche d'un objet pour calibré mon ABS maison. Pour supprimé le délaminage entre couches , une idée des ressources stl ? Suite à la formation de Makershop, et au élément trouvé sur le net. Je sais qu'il me faut : - Changé de matériaux car l'ABS est gourmand en délaminage (refroidissement rapide du matériaux). - Augmenté la température d’impression. - Un capot ne seras pas de trop. ( à quel température peut-on monté dans l'enceinte du capot pour ne pas détérioré l'imprimante?) - Remplissage au minimum pour évité l’effet rétractant. - Distance x et y des couches. - Autre? Pour ma part j'ai lancé une impression d'un parallélépipède coûteux : UM3, cura 3.2.1 : - 180 mm x 180 mm hauteur 50 mm. - Température d’impression 250 °C. - Température plateau 100 °C. (80°C ou 100°C une grande différence?) - Hauteur de couche 0.1mm. - Épaisseur de la paroi 1.3 mm (l'épaisseur influence telle le délaminage?). - Motif remplissage triangle (des articles sur les motifs et leurs propriétés?). - Remplissage 50%. - Vitesse d’impression 70 mm/s. - Refroidissement de l’impression off. - Largeur de bordure 7 mm. - Colle dimafix en spray. Le calibrage plateau, joue t'il sur le délaminage ? Je pense que non mais dans le doute!^^ : - Entretient machine ok . Les 9 axes lubrifiées, poulies resserrées , les 6 courroies resserrées. - Calibration buse plateau de verres, avec cale mécanique 0.10 mm.(affiné avec les vis du plateau). - Coté traité du plateau. Merci : )
  25. Bonjour à tous et à toutes, : ) je suis à la recherche d'un objet pour calibré mon ABS maison. Pour supprimé le délaminage entre couches , une idée des ressources stl ? Suite à la formation de Makershop, et au élément trouvé sur le net. Je sais qu'il me faut : - Changé de matériaux car l'ABS est gourmand en délaminage (refroidissement rapide du matériaux). - Augmenté la température d’impression. - Un capot ne seras pas de trop. ( à quel température peut-on monté dans l'enceinte du capot pour ne pas détérioré l'imprimante?) - Remplissage au minimum pour évité l’effet rétractant. - Distance x et y des couches. - Autre? Pour ma part j'ai lancé une impression d'un parallélépipède coûteux : UM3, cura 3.2.1 : - 180 mm x 180 mm hauteur 50 mm. - Température d’impression 250 °C. - Température plateau 100 °C. (80°C ou 100°C une grande différence?) - Hauteur de couche 0.1mm. - Épaisseur de la paroi 1.3 mm (l'épaisseur influence telle le délaminage?). - Motif remplissage triangle (des articles sur les motifs et leurs propriétés?). - Remplissage 50%. - Vitesse d’impression 70 mm/s. - Refroidissement de l’impression off. - Largeur de bordure 7 mm. - Colle dimafix en spray. Le calibrage plateau, joue t'il sur le délaminage ? Je pense que non mais dans le doute!^^ : - Entretient machine ok . Les 9 axes lubrifiées, poulies resserrées , les 6 courroies resserrées. - Calibration buse plateau de verres, avec cale mécanique 0.10 mm.(affiné avec les vis du plateau). - Coté traité du plateau. Merci : )
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