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  1. The company I work for recently bought about 20 printers, all UMS5 Pros I believe. We have been going through a lot of material and wasting some. I feel bad throwing away bad prints or the ends of spools. I have started looking at recycling or re extruding filament to print with again. Does anyone have any experience with this? I have looked at the Filabot but that is very expensive. The ReDeTec ProtoCycler seems to be a more reasonable priced machine. Do you recommend a different machine? How does the filament print after being re extruded? I know you can not mix materials. I main
  2. Bonjour tout le monde, Je souhaiterai être sûr de ce que j'ai lu: On dit que la température de transition vitreuse est le fait de passer d'un état caoutchouteux à un état solide. On dit que la température de fusion est le fait de passer à un état solide à un état liquide. Donc, si je regarde la fiche du Nylon Ultimaker, il est dit que la transition vitreuse est de 50° et que la fusion est de 185-195. Concrètement, cela veut-il dire que la matière se durcit à partir de 50°C et qu'elle commence à se déformer si exposée à minimum 185°C ? Ais-je bien interprét
  3. Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe t
  4. Bonjour à tous. Je viens d'ajouter un Hard Core 3D Solex sur mon UM3. Je remarque que la goute au démarrage est bien plus lisse et écrasée. Ce qui me laisse penser que le fil extrudé avec une buse Acier est plus chaud qu'avec une buse laiton. A moins que ce soit le Core qui chauffe un peu plus... Avez-vous déjà constaté ce phénomène ? Utilisez-vous les mêmes températures avec de l'Acier ou du Laiton ? Merci.
  5. Bonjour à tous, Depuis le Covid de nombreuses pièces imprimées sont en contact avec la peau : visières, pinces nez, masques... Aussi je me pose des questions concernant l'innocuité des filaments 3D. Pensez-vous que le PLA ou le PETG ne posent pas de problème cutané ? Que pensez-vous des élastomères ? Avez-vous une expérience des matériaux biocompatibles ? Merci.
  6. Hallo zusammen, seit mehren Wochen benutzte ich das Ultimaker ABS nun schon Problemlos auf einen Ultimaker S5. Schlagartig lassen sich jetzt aber die Bauteile nicht mehr von dem Druckbett lösen. In folge dessen ist ein Glassdruckbett schon kapput gegangen. Ich drucke mit dem gleichen G-Code, der Wochenlang keine Probleme gemacht hat. Das Druckbett habe ich schon neu kalibriet und auch eine ganz neue Spule ABS verwendet. Beides brachte keine Änderung. Das Problem der zu starken Druckbetthaftung tritt bei anderen Materialien nicht so stark auf. Vielen Dank für
  7. We have been beginning our work creating American Made components, Its been a journey. We are just getting started. After PLA and ABS printing and looking for ways to get the best surfaces, I thought I would share some of it. https://imgur.com/z6X9wpk Matte Black looks great but the surface will require too much post-processing. Copper wire goes around the bobbin but the top surface obviously looks not great. After changing some settings and working with ABS, its maybe a bit soft or not resonant enough so we tried annealing it. Bad Idea! PLA anneals well but it is
  8. I've been struggling with print quality using a newly installed volcano with a 0.8 mm nozzle. The extrusion stops a couple mm before the end of a layer and leaves gaps in the prints. It's as if coasting were turned on and set too long. I tried turning on coasting and setting a negative value, but Cura won't slice when I do that. How do I get it to extrude right to the end of the line? There is also a small gap that occurs during printing (marked "?") that I'll tackle after I get the bigger problem solved. I had a similar gap at the start of each layer, after a relatively long travel mo
  9. Hallo zusammen, ich hab zur Zeit Probleme mit dem Druck von Teilen auf dem UMS5. Bei dem Material handelt es sich um ABS Black von Ultimaker. Nach den Bottom-Layers kommt es, wie im nachfolgenden Bild zu sehen, zu mehreren fehlerhaften Infill-Schichten. Das Infill besteht aus 100% Fülldichte mit Linien als Muster. Das Phänomen ist im Übergang vom Infill zu den Top-Layer deutlich weniger bis gar nicht ausgeprägt. Bricht man dieses Teil senkrecht der Schichten auf, kann man das Problem genauer erkennen.
  10. Hallo allerseits 😀 Ich habe folgendes Angebot: Große Menge Form Futura Easyfill ABS-Filament 750 Gramm. Verschiedene Farben Alles noch in einer versiegelten Box. Normaler Verkaufspreis 19,95 Euro pro Rolle. Jetzt das ganze Los für 1000 Euro (7,00 € pro Rolle) oder 8.95 € pro Rolle. Ohne Versandkosten. Kostenloser Versand über 75,00 € zzgl. MwSt. Eine Abholung ist ebenfalls möglich. Ich höre gerne von dir! Grüße Patrick Patrick@iopbv.com
  11. Hoi allemaal 😀 Ik heb de volgende aanbieding: Grote partij Form Futura Easyfill ABS filament 750 gram. Diversen kleuren Alles nog in gesealde doos. Nieuwprijs 19,95 euro per rol. Nu de gehele partij voor 1000 euro (€5.00 per rol) of per rol €6.67. Exclusief BTW en verzendkosten. Gratis verzending boven €75.00 ex BTW. Afhalen kan ook. Ik hoor graag van je! Groeten Patrick 06-21871570 patrick@iopbv.com
  12. Hola, soy usuario de una impresora Ultimaker 2 y le cuesta extruir un ABS+ el cual es un abs que necesita un poco más de temperatura para que fluya bien, lo sé porque el mismo filamento se imprime correctamente en una Zortrax M200 a 270°C, lo único que sé es que se debe cambiar la pieza de PTFE por otra igual de un material más resistente al calor, sobre lo demás no sé si deben cambiar más piezas, así como editar el software para que me permita elevar la temperatura, si alguien lo ha hecho, le estaré muy agradecido si comparte su experiencia, saludos.
  13. Hi everyone, We have been having a problem with ABS prints breaking our print plates using the recommended settings. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also do you know if there is a way to keep your print plate warm overnight after a print finishes? Best & thank you, John
  14. Ok so I was doing a bunch of work to my printer last weekend including an E3D V6 hot end upgrade. The printer is an ender 3 pro that has an SKR mini v2 board, octoprint, enclosure, and more printing with makerbot ABS. After every change I would always test print a standing tower as pictured below. Once I installed the e3d v6 hot end my prints started looking extremely over-extruded and or too high temperature. I am using the exact same gcode as the previous towers (except for the short once pictured where I tried changing setting to fix the issue). The towers on the left of the picture are bef
  15. Hi! a while ago I have made this 8mm film scanner. Since I printed the parts on my UM2+ I thought I post it here. You can find the files and a more detailed article here: https://hackaday.io/project/167426-8mm-film-scanner In case you wonder why I used (Ultimaker) ABS and PLA - I originally printed all parts in PLA, but after some time figured out that the stepper motor gets too warm for the nearby parts, especially the cogwheel, and they start to deform slightly. So I switched to ABS for some of the parts and the problem was solved. In this project I learned a lot a
  16. Hello All, I have two Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printers that I’ve worked with for several years off and on for small/medium sized prints in ABS and Polycarb. But I’ve always had issues from day one to get good quality part finishes with my printers, to the point where I found myself spending literally hours reprinting parts again and again to optimize the print profile to come out *mostly* decent. In the past day or so, I determined to spend time to look into the problem and really tune the printer to work well with ABS prints (Polycarb and PLA prints generally
  17. Hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit der Qualität an den Ecken des Bauteiles. Es tritt jeweils dort auf, wo ein Wechsel des Layers stattfindet. Und am Abschluss des Drucks an den letzten Layer verschmilzt das Material förmlich. Testwürfel etc werden perfekt gedruckt. Drucker: Ultimaker 3 Extended Material: Original Ultimaker ABS Schwarz Slicer: Cura 4.6.1 Ich hoffe es hat mit dem Export des Profiles geklappt. Sollten doch alle enthalten sein, dann wäre das benutzte ABS-ULTIMAKER-SEITENTEILE Ich würde mich freuen, wenn ihr
  18. bonjour, J'ai un soucis d'impression en double extrusion avec une S5 : J'imprime un ABS formfutura avec les support en breakaway. Mon soucis est que le breakaway bave et fait des filaments qui se retrouve dans la piece en ABS. De plus le breakaway bouloche et les amas se font attraper par la 1ere buse. Le breakaway est extremement difficile a retirer de la plaque en verre. ayant ventilé le breakaway, cela a provoqué de warping et des decolement de couche de l'abs. Comment peut on imprimer l'abs avec le breakaway ? Sans ventiler, le b
  19. I'm interested in buying an S5 pro bundle for printing with ABS indoors without too much room ventilation. I'm concerned about volatile organic compounds (VOC), in addition to ultra fine particles (UFP). I have read that the S5 pro bundle includes a filter that removes up to 95% of UFPs. However, based on my understanding, VOCs are also emitted when printing with ABS. Is the filter system for the S5 pro bundle able to remove VOCs from air?
  20. I barely purchased my UM2 and am printing my first ABS print. I used default settings for ABS that were pre-set in the UM2 and the default settings via cura, except I customized the support settings, which should be non-related to the issue and I am printing with a raft. The layer height selected was FINE .1 default settings had the print speed at 50mm ABS used is IC3D. used glue on the glass and no warping so far, so that is not an issue at this time. bed has been leveled prior to print so that should not be an issue. Ive tried tweaking the settings mid print, and brought the nozzle te
  21. HI, I need a support, Well i am printing a device model which has a one pipe extension so when i importing my model in Cura 4.2.1 its default value fix at printing plate and the round part of my object touches the plate, in that case my print is getting lost its specifications, so please suggest how i can start my print 1 or 2 mm upward from the bed with supports so my print dimensions getting same. Please find the attached images for the reference. Thanks
  22. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height :
  23. Hi. This is the best stringing test result I've had so far in 2 years. I switched to BMG extruder, tried V6 and Chimera, ptfe lined, all metal, titanium polished bore, high temp PTFE, high rpm 40x40x20 heatsink fan and thermal paste on the heatbreak (it is ambient temp). Estep and Flow are calibrated. I tried all materials from different brands and also tried again drying them. I tried all retraction distance from 0 to 15mm and all speeds from 15mm/s to 80 mm/s and all temps, for PLA from 180 to 230. I even tried coasting and disabling part cooling fan. It di
  24. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
  25. Hello I am trying to print this model from thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837894 When I print the arms I notice that one side (right one on picture) of the arm is twice thinner than it should be. This is seen only on printed object, in Cura GUI everything is correct and both sides of the fork are of the same thickness. Where is the problem? What settings could be used to fix it? I am using Cura 4.2.1, printing with ABS.
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