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  1. Hi everyone, We have been having a problem with ABS prints breaking our print plates using the recommended settings. Does anyone have any suggestions? Also do you know if there is a way to keep your print plate warm overnight after a print finishes? Best & thank you, John
  2. Ok so I was doing a bunch of work to my printer last weekend including an E3D V6 hot end upgrade. The printer is an ender 3 pro that has an SKR mini v2 board, octoprint, enclosure, and more printing with makerbot ABS. After every change I would always test print a standing tower as pictured below. Once I installed the e3d v6 hot end my prints started looking extremely over-extruded and or too high temperature. I am using the exact same gcode as the previous towers (except for the short once pictured where I tried changing setting to fix the issue). The towers on the left of the picture are before and the ones on the right are after the upgrade. I am a little confused as why it would appear over-extruded as the extruder is calibrated and moving the same as before and it wasn’t slipping before with the old hotend. I have tried turning the temperature way down and that doesn’t seem to help either. It is noteworthy that while it looks like the tower are skinnier in some places and twisted that is because the nozzle is pulling the outer wall inwards on the next pass. The printer seems to be making the correct movements in the x-y direction so it is not a loose belt. Also the prints are the correct hight so it is not something with the z axis. i have read another thread about someone having the similar issues but there was no clear answer and he just turned down his extrusion rate by 20% to compensate. Thanks for the help!
  3. Hi! a while ago I have made this 8mm film scanner. Since I printed the parts on my UM2+ I thought I post it here. You can find the files and a more detailed article here: https://hackaday.io/project/167426-8mm-film-scanner In case you wonder why I used (Ultimaker) ABS and PLA - I originally printed all parts in PLA, but after some time figured out that the stepper motor gets too warm for the nearby parts, especially the cogwheel, and they start to deform slightly. So I switched to ABS for some of the parts and the problem was solved. In this project I learned a lot about the precision you can get out of the printer, especially using a 0.25mm nozzle for some of the more "critical" parts. Hope you find it interesting 🙂
  4. Hello All, I have two Airwolf3D AXIOM Dual Direct Drive printers that I’ve worked with for several years off and on for small/medium sized prints in ABS and Polycarb. But I’ve always had issues from day one to get good quality part finishes with my printers, to the point where I found myself spending literally hours reprinting parts again and again to optimize the print profile to come out *mostly* decent. In the past day or so, I determined to spend time to look into the problem and really tune the printer to work well with ABS prints (Polycarb and PLA prints generally come out much better with little to no adjustment of the factory profile settings). So, I printed a series of the Calibration cubes from Thingiverse using the standard and Fine ABS print profile settings (with no modifications) to get a baseline to work from. I was wondering if some here could give me some tips on settings I can adjust to clean up some of the issues I’m having. Printer 1 has a 0.5 mm nozzle installed with a white ABS spool and Printer 2 has a 0.35 mm nozzle installed also with a white ABS spool (both Airwolf’s brand). I've attached images of the cubes printed from Printer 1 and 2 on both the Standard and Fine print profile settings (unmodified except for changing the nozzle size to 0.35 for printer two) Observations: Printer 1 - Standard ABS Profile Three of the four edges of the cube are not very sharp, but wavy. The layers of the cube seem to be a bit uneven The detail of the embossed lettering looks pretty uneven and jaggad at spots One can see the infill lines a bit poking through the sides Uneven, dull surface finish on the top Small pits in the sides of the letter Z in the top Printer 1 - Fine ABS Profile Sharpness and detail of lettering looks much better (makes sense, fine profile) Corners generally sharper and more even No more pitting in the Z on the top Still has dull, uneven surface finish on the top Some warping on the bottom (may be my fault for not using enough bed adhesive) Printer 2 - Standard ABS Profile All the same problems as Printer 1 but worse Looks like top surface got overheated (pit holes) It does seem to have a nicer, smoother schene due to the higher temperature Printer 2 - Fine ABS Profile Generally similar characteristics as Printer 1’s Fine profile cube Noticeably better layer surface finish and top surface finish Y letter looks better but X looks worse than Printer 1 This is what I see so far. I’m trying to see if there are some general tweaks I can make to both printers to improve the appearance and finish for parts. It’s clear that temperature is one factor (I know that Printer 2’s bed temperature seems to run a couple of degrees warmer than Printer 1 for the same setpoint, which could account for the surface finish differences. But questions I have are: How to sharpen the corners on all four sides, especially for the Standard profile setting? How to get smoother layer to layer stackups and top surface finish without causing surface pitting on the top layer? Are there any guides out there with systematic calibration test print I can use to dial in my settings? I'm hoping to eventually find a more systematic way to tweak things to minimize wasted time and materials. Any other observations/advice you can provide are extremely helpful! I’ve been putting off doing this for a while but really want to get much better prints with ABS without wasting lots of time and material for each individual part I make (especially large parts). Thanks! Jason O
  5. Hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit der Qualität an den Ecken des Bauteiles. Es tritt jeweils dort auf, wo ein Wechsel des Layers stattfindet. Und am Abschluss des Drucks an den letzten Layer verschmilzt das Material förmlich. Testwürfel etc werden perfekt gedruckt. Drucker: Ultimaker 3 Extended Material: Original Ultimaker ABS Schwarz Slicer: Cura 4.6.1 Ich hoffe es hat mit dem Export des Profiles geklappt. Sollten doch alle enthalten sein, dann wäre das benutzte ABS-ULTIMAKER-SEITENTEILE Ich würde mich freuen, wenn ihr einen Lösungsvorschlag habt. VG Michael ABS-Forum.curaprofile UM3E_KF-links.3mf
  6. bonjour, J'ai un soucis d'impression en double extrusion avec une S5 : J'imprime un ABS formfutura avec les support en breakaway. Mon soucis est que le breakaway bave et fait des filaments qui se retrouve dans la piece en ABS. De plus le breakaway bouloche et les amas se font attraper par la 1ere buse. Le breakaway est extremement difficile a retirer de la plaque en verre. ayant ventilé le breakaway, cela a provoqué de warping et des decolement de couche de l'abs. Comment peut on imprimer l'abs avec le breakaway ? Sans ventiler, le breakaway s'imprime t'il correctement ? Merci
  7. I've been struggling with print quality using a newly installed volcano with a 0.8 mm nozzle. The extrusion stops a couple mm before the end of a layer and leaves gaps in the prints. It's as if coasting were turned on and set too long. I tried turning on coasting and setting a negative value, but Cura won't slice when I do that. How do I get it to extrude right to the end of the line? There is also a small gap that occurs during printing (marked "?") that I'll tackle after I get the bigger problem solved. I had a similar gap at the start of each layer, after a relatively long travel move. The infill is supposed to start at the perimeter, but there's about a 5 mm long gap between the perimeter and the start of the infill. I solved that by turning on retraction at 0.1 mm, and setting the retraction extra prime amount to 4 mm. I'm wondering if the surface tension of the molten filament is pulling the filament back up into the heater block with this large nozzle. I don't need to use retraction at all, and I have this problem with the plastic not starting exactly when it should, and stopping a little too soon. I did not see this behavior with a standard v6 heater block and a 0.4 mm nozzle. I did see similar behavior with the standard heater block and a 0.6 mm nozzle. I'm printing ABS, extruder temp is 270C, printing at a modest 50mm/sec, 150mm/sec travel. I would appreciate insight from the experts. Thanks!
  8. I'm interested in buying an S5 pro bundle for printing with ABS indoors without too much room ventilation. I'm concerned about volatile organic compounds (VOC), in addition to ultra fine particles (UFP). I have read that the S5 pro bundle includes a filter that removes up to 95% of UFPs. However, based on my understanding, VOCs are also emitted when printing with ABS. Is the filter system for the S5 pro bundle able to remove VOCs from air?
  9. I barely purchased my UM2 and am printing my first ABS print. I used default settings for ABS that were pre-set in the UM2 and the default settings via cura, except I customized the support settings, which should be non-related to the issue and I am printing with a raft. The layer height selected was FINE .1 default settings had the print speed at 50mm ABS used is IC3D. used glue on the glass and no warping so far, so that is not an issue at this time. bed has been leveled prior to print so that should not be an issue. Ive tried tweaking the settings mid print, and brought the nozzle temp down from 260 to 250, and material flow from 107% down to 100% as I figured it was possibly an issue of over extrusion. I have just now decided to turn off the fans as the default settings had the fans on at 40%. Now the print quality isn't terrible, but I also own a zortrax m200 and printing at a layer height of .14 on that machine with ABS, I get much smoother prints. Since Im using settings on the Ultimaker 2 at .1 layer height, I assumed it would be better quality or at the very least, hard to tell the difference between the two. This is not the case and the UM2 print seems to be printing with slightly uneven layers as the print lines are extremely noticeable. I will include pics to show what I mean and hopefully i can get some tips from those that would know. Thank you for any help you guys can provide.
  10. HI, I need a support, Well i am printing a device model which has a one pipe extension so when i importing my model in Cura 4.2.1 its default value fix at printing plate and the round part of my object touches the plate, in that case my print is getting lost its specifications, so please suggest how i can start my print 1 or 2 mm upward from the bed with supports so my print dimensions getting same. Please find the attached images for the reference. Thanks
  11. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height : 0.15 - Infill density : 30% - Wall Thickness : 2 mm - Flow : 106% - Retraction : enabled, +/- 5 mm - Speed : 40 mm/s - Build plate adhesion : Raft - I've thermally insulated the whole printer With these setting I got : - poor layer adhesion giving a very weak catapult - poor printing precision - no warping You can find enclosed some pictures of the catapult printed with these settings. Thank you so much for your help ! Thibault
  12. Hi. This is the best stringing test result I've had so far in 2 years. I switched to BMG extruder, tried V6 and Chimera, ptfe lined, all metal, titanium polished bore, high temp PTFE, high rpm 40x40x20 heatsink fan and thermal paste on the heatbreak (it is ambient temp). Estep and Flow are calibrated. I tried all materials from different brands and also tried again drying them. I tried all retraction distance from 0 to 15mm and all speeds from 15mm/s to 80 mm/s and all temps, for PLA from 180 to 230. I even tried coasting and disabling part cooling fan. It didn't make any visible difference. Travel speed is 200mm/s... Any idea on what the hell could the issue be??? Because I am exhaust... It initially was a creality cr10S before all the mods I did trying to solve this.
  13. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
  14. Hello I am trying to print this model from thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837894 When I print the arms I notice that one side (right one on picture) of the arm is twice thinner than it should be. This is seen only on printed object, in Cura GUI everything is correct and both sides of the fork are of the same thickness. Where is the problem? What settings could be used to fix it? I am using Cura 4.2.1, printing with ABS.
  15. I need help with making slots of 200 microns in a recangular block (10 X 5 or 10 X 10 mm2). i designed stuff with autodesk and started printing but the print that i got from machine has no slots on them. also i am using the material called ASA which is slightly differnet than ABS. I would be thankful any direction or help. Thank You, Siddharth
  16. Weiss nicht wirklich ob es jemanden Interessiert. Ich habe nun schon das zweite mal einen Bowden Clip am UM3 verloren. Schnipp und wech 😉 Nun reicht es. Habe mich hingesetzt und einen gebaut. Vielleicht kann ihn ja jemand gebrauchen ? Vielleicht gibt den auch schon hier irgendwo. Hier der Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3769242/files Viele Grüße
  17. Hallo, ich brauche eine Hilfestellung zum ABS. Vorweg möchte ich sagen, das die Oberfläche der Bauteile perfekt ist. So wie ich es mir vorstelle. Das Problem ist der erste Layer des Bauteiles. Hier verschmilzt das ABS nicht richtig. Will sagen man sieht die einzelnen Fäden und kann sie unter Umständen auch lösen. Dies sieht natürlich nicht schön aus und schleifen kann es ja auch nicht sein. Ich habe mit PLA, Carbon, PETG den Gegencheck gemacht und da sind die Layer perfekt. Ich dachte zuerst es würde am Printafix liegen und bin dann auf RAFT gegangen. Das Raft sieht von der Unterseite perfekt aus. Nur das Bauteil hat auch auf dem Raft den schrecklichen unteren Layer. Ich drucke über die zweite Nozzle 0.4 Drucker Ultimaker 3 Extendet Komplett geschlossener Bauraum Haftung Printafix Slider CURA 4.1 Printer neueste Firmware Ich habe zur besseren Übersicht das Druckprofil als Datei eingefügt. Ich gestehe, das der schmale Steg der Unterseite des Bauteiles 3 mm beträgt, habe aber auch wenn ich einen Würfel drucke das selbe Layerproblem Das Druckergebnis seht ihr auf den Bildern. Ich hoffe Ihr könnt mir ein wenig helfen. Grüße Michael Michas-ABS-Einstellung.curaprofile
  18. Bonjour à tous, Je n'arrive pas à imprimer de l'ABS sans déformation de ma pièce :( La surface positionnée sur le plateau finie par se décoller progressivement lors de l'impression en se déformant. Je me suis équipé depuis peu de l'extension de la machine permettant de fermer totalement l'air d'impression en ajoutant un porte + un volume supérieur avec ventilo. Je préchauffe le plateau à 90 ° pendant 40 mn avant de lancer l'impression . Malgré ces précautions l'impression est pas correcte. Je serais preneur d'une astuce :) merci d'avance
  19. printer: ultimaker 3 Material: Gray ABS Problem:Having problem detecting the material and have to physically enter the ABS generic instead for Gray ABS since the option does not exists. what do i need to do to change this option in the printer.
  20. I have a problem with my ABS prints. First layer looks like the one on the photo. I have a heated bed davinci pro printer and I use 240/90 degrees temperatures (nozzle/bed). What can I do to take care of the bubbles as well as the side "lift-ups" of the brim?
  21. Lately I pritned something out. On flat surfaces of it there is this very annoying pattern that sticks out and isn't really flat as it can be clearly felt that it isn't one layer. Photos below. What can I do to get rid of it? (Both can be seen at big part as well as the top part)
  22. So I started using Cura 3.6 and I came to some problems. Generally I was using my XYZware for printing and all as I have DaVinci printer. But you can still export the g-code and then print with the settings you like and I changed it because in XYZ there are not so many options as there are in Cura. Yet, I happen to have problems with prints and I don't know why. I attached some photos of a 2x2x2cm calibration cube. Using XYZ it prints very well and there are no round corners or anything wrong at all. But when I use Cura, even at exactly the same settings, prints came out like the one in this post. What can I do to make my printer print normally again?
  23. TL;DR: How do I get ABS to stop warping for this box using an Ultimaker 3 (or 2+)? or XY problem version: How do I best print this box in a way that can withstand the heat of a car? Model Photos of results Background: I made a circuit to live in my car, and I designed a box to hold it. The box stl files are here with the primary bottom shell in BShell.stl and the top in TShell.stl. After some experimentation, I got this box to print reliably with PLA. Things I found to help included printing the shells one at a time, putting a layer of glue on the glass plate, using a front cover, and pre-heating the build plate. I also got less warping with a 0.2 layer height, but preferred the smoothness of 0.1, and was able to get a good result with it. Unfortunately, with my car parked in the sun, my PLA box got soft and deformed. I set out to try ABS. On my first attempt, I used the same techniques that worked well for PLA, but the part warped very quickly after I started and delaminated completely from the glue layer. Good thing I was watching since it would have damaged the print core if it kept going. Next I tried using an adhesion sheet. This gave me a really nice first layer, but after a while, it still lifted on the back right corner and created a bit of a mess. I made one more attempt and used 0.2mm layer height, since that helped me before. This time it didn't make a big mess, but I still got some lift on the same corner which made for some strange results. From what I've read, I'm doing all the right things to help ABS to not warp, I think this box is just a challenge because of the large flat bottom surface. Are there any additional things that would help? Certain tweaks to the settings, like bed temp, that might help this case? Other materials on the plate that might keep it from lifting? I'm a bit limited in chemicals I can use since I'm in a restricted space, and new chemicals require a whole process to be approved for safety, which makes trying new things hard. Would a higher quality ABS work better? Is Ultimaker brand ABS high quality? Alternatively, is there some other technique I could use, like a different material? Perhaps CPE? It seems like it's more temperature resistant than PLA. Perhaps it would be sufficient. Is it easier to print without warping? Thanks very much for any tips.
  24. I lately started using Cura 4.0. I use it on my daVinci printer and what I came across is this print that is showed in attachments. I also included the settings I used for this print. What can I do so that it prints the best it can?
  25. Hello, I'm trying to print ABS with my cr-10s and keep getting split problem. I'm using Cura 3.6.0, nozzle temperature at 250C, bed temp at 100C with layer height 0.1mm Extrusion speed is 20mm/s with 2 shells, 10% infill. Regardless of the print size, splitting happened. I think printing speed isn't that fast and the temperature is high enough. I didn't check the fan power but I didn't change default setting value of it. Please see attached images. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zz3fVsNpFcyMzBDd6 Any help would be appreciated!
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