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Found 62 results

  1. Hello I am trying to print this model from thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2837894 When I print the arms I notice that one side (right one on picture) of the arm is twice thinner than it should be. This is seen only on printed object, in Cura GUI everything is correct and both sides of the fork are of the same thickness. Where is the problem? What settings could be used to fix it? I am using Cura 4.2.1, printing with ABS.
  2. I need help with making slots of 200 microns in a recangular block (10 X 5 or 10 X 10 mm2). i designed stuff with autodesk and started printing but the print that i got from machine has no slots on them. also i am using the material called ASA which is slightly differnet than ABS. I would be thankful any direction or help. Thank You, Siddharth
  3. Weiss nicht wirklich ob es jemanden Interessiert. Ich habe nun schon das zweite mal einen Bowden Clip am UM3 verloren. Schnipp und wech 😉 Nun reicht es. Habe mich hingesetzt und einen gebaut. Vielleicht kann ihn ja jemand gebrauchen ? Vielleicht gibt den auch schon hier irgendwo. Hier der Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3769242/files Viele Grüße
  4. Hallo, ich brauche eine Hilfestellung zum ABS. Vorweg möchte ich sagen, das die Oberfläche der Bauteile perfekt ist. So wie ich es mir vorstelle. Das Problem ist der erste Layer des Bauteiles. Hier verschmilzt das ABS nicht richtig. Will sagen man sieht die einzelnen Fäden und kann sie unter Umständen auch lösen. Dies sieht natürlich nicht schön aus und schleifen kann es ja auch nicht sein. Ich habe mit PLA, Carbon, PETG den Gegencheck gemacht und da sind die Layer perfekt. Ich dachte zuerst es würde am Printafix liegen und bin dann auf RAFT gegangen. Das Raft sieht von der Unterseite perfekt aus. Nur das Bauteil hat auch auf dem Raft den schrecklichen unteren Layer. Ich drucke über die zweite Nozzle 0.4 Drucker Ultimaker 3 Extendet Komplett geschlossener Bauraum Haftung Printafix Slider CURA 4.1 Printer neueste Firmware Ich habe zur besseren Übersicht das Druckprofil als Datei eingefügt. Ich gestehe, das der schmale Steg der Unterseite des Bauteiles 3 mm beträgt, habe aber auch wenn ich einen Würfel drucke das selbe Layerproblem Das Druckergebnis seht ihr auf den Bildern. Ich hoffe Ihr könnt mir ein wenig helfen. Grüße Michael Michas-ABS-Einstellung.curaprofile
  5. Bonjour à tous, Je n'arrive pas à imprimer de l'ABS sans déformation de ma pièce :( La surface positionnée sur le plateau finie par se décoller progressivement lors de l'impression en se déformant. Je me suis équipé depuis peu de l'extension de la machine permettant de fermer totalement l'air d'impression en ajoutant un porte + un volume supérieur avec ventilo. Je préchauffe le plateau à 90 ° pendant 40 mn avant de lancer l'impression . Malgré ces précautions l'impression est pas correcte. Je serais preneur d'une astuce :) merci d'avance
  6. printer: ultimaker 3 Material: Gray ABS Problem:Having problem detecting the material and have to physically enter the ABS generic instead for Gray ABS since the option does not exists. what do i need to do to change this option in the printer.
  7. I have a problem with my ABS prints. First layer looks like the one on the photo. I have a heated bed davinci pro printer and I use 240/90 degrees temperatures (nozzle/bed). What can I do to take care of the bubbles as well as the side "lift-ups" of the brim?
  8. Lately I pritned something out. On flat surfaces of it there is this very annoying pattern that sticks out and isn't really flat as it can be clearly felt that it isn't one layer. Photos below. What can I do to get rid of it? (Both can be seen at big part as well as the top part)
  9. So I started using Cura 3.6 and I came to some problems. Generally I was using my XYZware for printing and all as I have DaVinci printer. But you can still export the g-code and then print with the settings you like and I changed it because in XYZ there are not so many options as there are in Cura. Yet, I happen to have problems with prints and I don't know why. I attached some photos of a 2x2x2cm calibration cube. Using XYZ it prints very well and there are no round corners or anything wrong at all. But when I use Cura, even at exactly the same settings, prints came out like the one in this post. What can I do to make my printer print normally again?
  10. TL;DR: How do I get ABS to stop warping for this box using an Ultimaker 3 (or 2+)? or XY problem version: How do I best print this box in a way that can withstand the heat of a car? Model Photos of results Background: I made a circuit to live in my car, and I designed a box to hold it. The box stl files are here with the primary bottom shell in BShell.stl and the top in TShell.stl. After some experimentation, I got this box to print reliably with PLA. Things I found to help included printing the shells one at a time, putting a layer of glue on the glass plate, using a front cover, and pre-heating the build plate. I also got less warping with a 0.2 layer height, but preferred the smoothness of 0.1, and was able to get a good result with it. Unfortunately, with my car parked in the sun, my PLA box got soft and deformed. I set out to try ABS. On my first attempt, I used the same techniques that worked well for PLA, but the part warped very quickly after I started and delaminated completely from the glue layer. Good thing I was watching since it would have damaged the print core if it kept going. Next I tried using an adhesion sheet. This gave me a really nice first layer, but after a while, it still lifted on the back right corner and created a bit of a mess. I made one more attempt and used 0.2mm layer height, since that helped me before. This time it didn't make a big mess, but I still got some lift on the same corner which made for some strange results. From what I've read, I'm doing all the right things to help ABS to not warp, I think this box is just a challenge because of the large flat bottom surface. Are there any additional things that would help? Certain tweaks to the settings, like bed temp, that might help this case? Other materials on the plate that might keep it from lifting? I'm a bit limited in chemicals I can use since I'm in a restricted space, and new chemicals require a whole process to be approved for safety, which makes trying new things hard. Would a higher quality ABS work better? Is Ultimaker brand ABS high quality? Alternatively, is there some other technique I could use, like a different material? Perhaps CPE? It seems like it's more temperature resistant than PLA. Perhaps it would be sufficient. Is it easier to print without warping? Thanks very much for any tips.
  11. I lately started using Cura 4.0. I use it on my daVinci printer and what I came across is this print that is showed in attachments. I also included the settings I used for this print. What can I do so that it prints the best it can?
  12. Hello, I'm trying to print ABS with my cr-10s and keep getting split problem. I'm using Cura 3.6.0, nozzle temperature at 250C, bed temp at 100C with layer height 0.1mm Extrusion speed is 20mm/s with 2 shells, 10% infill. Regardless of the print size, splitting happened. I think printing speed isn't that fast and the temperature is high enough. I didn't check the fan power but I didn't change default setting value of it. Please see attached images. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zz3fVsNpFcyMzBDd6 Any help would be appreciated!
  13. Can anyone tell me why i would get these cracks? They are very evenly spaced at what looks like the same distance. Material is ABS, 240C extruder, 95C on the Bed. The other stuff is support so not to worried about it. Any help would be great.
  14. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height : 0.15 - Infill density : 30% - Wall Thickness : 2 mm - Flow : 106% - Retraction : enabled, +/- 5 mm - Speed : 40 mm/s - Build plate adhesion : Raft - I've thermally insulated the whole printer With these setting I got : - poor layer adhesion giving a very weak catapult - poor printing precision - no warping You can find enclosed some pictures of the catapult printed with these settings. Thank you so much for your help ! Thibault
  15. Hallo zusammen, gibt es jemanden, der regelmäßig saubere Drucker per ABS herstellen kann? Generell geht es mir nur um die letzte Schicht. Diese bekomme ich einfach nicht glatt und somit ästhetisch schön hin. Mit PLA und den Standard-Einstellungen von Cura sowie der Option "Glätten" bekomme ich eine saubere Oberfläche. Bei ABS funktioniert das einfach nicht. Glätten verschlimmert es noch. Für mich sieht es so aus, als ob die Düse an der Oberfläche kratzt. Ändere ich die Einstellungen des Lüfters (0% - 50% - 100%), so wird dieser Effekt verstärkt oder abgeschwächt. Beste Ergebnisse (aber immer noch schlecht bei 40% Lüfter). Der UM3 steht abgeschottet in seiner Vitrine. Die Nivellierung des Druckbetts habe ich sauber durchgeführt. Änderungen an den Temperatur-Einstellungen wurden noch nicht durchgeführt. Die Fehler sind übrigens immer an der gleichen Stelle. Könnt Ihr mir Einstellungen empfehlen? Grüße, Frank
  16. Hallo Community, ich habe folgendes Problem: Der Druck haftet gut am Druckbett, allerdings nicht in der rechten hinteren Ecke von vorne aus gesehen. Das heißt, je weiter ich das zu druckende Teil in Cura nach hinten und rechts verschiebe, desto größer die Ablösung während des Drucks. In einem relativ großen Bereich davor tritt dieses Problem nicht auf. Habe vorhin auch eine Temperaturmessung mit einem Infrarotlaser gemacht, dabei aber keine Ungleichverteilung festgestellt, außer dass es in der Mitte ein paar wenige Grad wärmer ist. Hat oder hatte schonmal jemand von euch dieses Problem? Meine Daten: Ultimaker 2 ABS-Filament Druckbetttemperatur 100 °C Wärmeisolation durch Klappe vorne und Haube obendrauf Druck erfolgt direkt auf die Glasplatte Druckplattenhaftungstyp Brim Ich hoffe ihr könnt mein Problem verstehen und freue mich auf hilfreiche Antworten 🙂 Danke schonmal MarraM
  17. Hi there to everyone, I know this topic might not be a new, but I am really struggling to print ABS in our UM3. I don't really manage to get a proper bed adhesion. I followed the tips and instructions you can find online in the website (https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22226-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-abs), trying different methods for adhesion: 3D printing spray, glue stick, tape, perfectly cleaned bed glas,etc. I also to tried different printing settings: using the parameters that Cura has by default (80ºC of bed temperature for ABS) and I also modifying the bed temperature up to 100ºC. The material I am using is a standard ABS from Smart materials (https://smartmaterials3d.com/es/) and oru printer has the advanced 3D printing eclosure set. I know that printing ABS can be tricky and temperature drop downs are a key feature not to get wraping, but I tried different ways being particularly careful in the temperature issue inside the printer. And the result has been always the same: pieces get loosen even if the tape (for example) on the plate is still quite sticky. Has anyone the same problem?Any clue on how can I solve this?Could it be related to the ABS material itself (and/or its conservation)? Thanks in advance!
  18. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  19. Bonjour, j'aimerais affûté mes réglages pour une impression Bicolore sur UM3 avec Cura 3.0.4 Par contre je part avec deux contraintes, je joins ABS(Blanc) avec PLA(Vert). +Multi-impression entre 10 et 15 pièces sur le plateau. Les lettres sont de largeur 0.5 mm . J'ai testé en inférieur, 0.4 mm ça ne fonctionne pas. Les lettres d'adhères pas correctement si j'imprime sur la surface de dessus.(Je suppose que cela vient du mariage PLA et ABS) J'insert une couche (hauteur 0.06 mm) de PLA dans L'ABS. Les couches initiale, je les mises à 0.06 mm. Mon profil est de 0.06. Corrections: supprimer tous les trous est actif. Pour le test qui est sur la photo, mon filament était pas mal écrasé par le chargeur, trop serré.(je compte faire une autre test avec le filament net et chargeur plus détendu, mais j'ai une impression en cours) J'ai eu une nette différence en ajoutant les réglages suivant: Matériaux -Rétractation changement de couche -Degré supplémentaire de rétraction primaire Le reste de paramètre est par défaut.Normalement!^^ Merci
  20. Just as the title suggests (I'm not sure what to call it). When we do longer jobs (taller jobs, really), we see this repeated bending up of layers that creates separations fairly regularly up multiple sides of our objects. We tried printing at a higher temperature (270 up from 255) and enclosing the U3E with a cardboard box to keep heat from escaping, but it's still happening, which leads me to believe that either lack of heat isn't the cause, or we haven't committed far enough, but I don't want to break anything by making it hotter. Does anyone even know what to call this so I can search more myself? I tried cracks and warping but didn't find anything about this particular issue.
  21. Hi I am trying to print a model that is Hollow inside, every time I load it into Curo with TREE supports it put these supports inside the model as well as outside the model. This will not work as the inside is inaccessible once the model is printed and I do not want a load of support material floating around inside it. How do I stop it putting supports on the inside? Also, how do I get it to raise the print head between movements, as it has caught on previous models and caused them to fall over?
  22. Hello friends i am using UM3 extended.I am using 3d printing for Investment casting pattern. For cost feasibility i mostly use 10% infill and below support setting Please share me your opinion and suggest me settings in cura. Issues: Supports are damaging part curvature surface I am extencively working on ABS
  23. I'm trying to smooth my ABS print with Acetone vapour but its not working. The ABS just softens and bleached white is some places. Any ideas? I'm using black Ultimaker original ABS filament.
  24. Hey there. I got great help last time, so hopefully will do so again. ? I'm printing lots of stuff on ABS with PVA support and have noticed, particularly on jobs where i DO generate support, that stuff is already cracking. I can take pics if needed, but don't really know how else to explain it. It's a completely flat surface with a hairline fracture in it. And there are several like it on each side of the object. And then yesterday we were printing a plane for another project and as it was printing the support, the support was coming up off the bed as it got thicker, which then made that side of the tail curve upward when it should have been flat. Is there something special to using the PVA support and / or ABS? I'm selecting those materials from the menu when I load them. The PVA is ultimaker branded, but the ABS is an off brand but has been fine on jobs without support. Thanks.
  25. Ok, I'll try to stay calm. I just spend €500 on an UM2 to 2+ upgrade, installed the latest Cura, put in a roll of official UM ABS and using the recommended settings. Frankly I bought this machine to print. Not to tinker endlessly with hundreds of settings. But I'll give it another try after 2 weeks of failing to print decently. I made a front/ top enclosure to keep the warmth in. I tried printing cooler and I get get poor layer adhesesion. This print is already way too weak for ABS. I think printing hotter may make support removal even more difficult. Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong here? I'd be much obliged. Thanks, Maarten
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