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Found 14 results

  1. Hi I aborted yesterday a print with Ultimaker CPE because the first layer was really bad. I had a lot of crumbs on the top of the first layer. I searched the forum and found some others with the same problem, but without any useful solution. I have to say, it was the first time I printed CPE with the 0.4 print core, before with the 0.8 print core it was ok or not so much that I had to abort the print. Then I thought, maybe the spool got too much moist in the last days and repeated the print now with a fresh spool Colorfabb XT - but its the same. What is it? Bed was leveled before print with auto leveling. Is it an over extrusion on the first layer(s)? Or is the nozzle too near at the bed? Here some pictures from the Colorfabb XT, the CPE yesterday had more crumbs and bigger crumbs. Thanks!
  2. zpm3atlantis

    CPE und CPE+ Haftung

    Hi HO Habe leider noch was zum Fragen ^^ Ich versuche schon seit einer weile mit CPE und CPE+ zu drucken, bekomme dieses aber nicht gleichmäßig zum haften. Habe ich schon mehrfach gedruckt einfach auf die Glasplatte. Ging manchmal super bei CPE, hatte super Haftung, sogar mehr als das Glas an sich selber, wenn ihr versteht ^^ Aber dann haftete es wiederum überhaupt nicht. Da ich nicht weitere Glasplatten opfern will suchte ich nach anderen wegen die eine zuverlässige Haftung bieten. Bluetape: geht gar nicht Adhesion Sheets von Ultimaker: Haftet so gut, dass man es nicht los bekommt Klebestift: Geht auch nicht, den ich eh nie benutzte aber hier mal benutzt habe geht auch nicht ? Habt ihr noch gute Tipps für dieses Material. Da es von Ultimaker ist habe ich erwartet: Reinhängen und fertig ^^ Manchmal bin ich halt auch gerne Faul. Grüsse zpm3altantis
  3. Swissengineer

    How to glue CPE+?

    Hello everyone, like the title says, I would like to glue two pieces of CPE+. Should I use a Cyano based (SuperGlue), or ABS glue (acetone based)? Thanks for the help
  4. Hello guys, i have the following problems with the Ultimaker 3 Extended. What works: I printed smaller objects (L: 50 mm; W: 50 mm; H: 70 mm) without any problems. A slightly bigger object (L: 140 mm, W: 20 mm; H: 80 mm) was also printed without problems. The printing quality and accuracy was amazing. What doesn't work: But the thing i always have to do beforehand is to move the object as far to the front as possible, because the adhesion on the back of the printing bed was not very good. We are using the BuildTakFlexPlate System for a better adhesion and tried to level the bed to counter that problems. But still if you print a bigger object/ move the object to the rear we never have satisfying printjobs. Current Settings: The printer is enclosed in a case which should benefit maintaining the temperature. The settings are the following: Pictures of not working prints: This is one print i had to stop because the printer started doing weird stuff. This print kind of worked (i guess), there is still a lot of warping and weird differences in the texture of the object What did i try?: - Level the bed again and again - Heating up the bed beforehand - Turning down the overall bed temperature after the first few layers I hope you guys can point me in the right direction :) Thanks in advance for your answers.
  5. Julian28010

    Do I need an enclosure for CPE?

    Hey! I want to use the CPE material by Ultimaker in the near future. I've just been printing with PLA since I got an Ultimaker 3D printer. My only question is if an enclosure or front door would be required?
  6. We need to make some pieces for our laboratory that can be cleaned with organic solvents. Where can I find truthful information about the resistance of the various filaments to these solvents? The ideal would be in Nylon but we need to know if we can use other materials easier to print than Nylon. We have printed on Nylon but it still gives us warping problems. We print it in the UM3Extended. It has a door and lid and we pre-dry the Nylon and the PVA in the stove at 60º. During printing we cover the printer with a thermal blanket to avoid currents and temperature changes. Thanks in advance
  7. Hi, I was hoping someone could possibly help I'm having issues with the printing, it seems that the printer is dragging over the print leading it to give a poor finish in the middle it. I've tried to change the infill pattern, recalibrated numerous times to no improvement. I had tried using CPE but the prints came out much worse and would be moved off the adhesion sheets I put down. I've uploaded some examples of the what happened with the PLA and will upload the CPE later. Any thoughts would be appreciated! Thanks
  8. zpm3atlantis

    Material für Aquaristik

    Guten Tag liebe Forums Mitglieder Wie der Title schon vermuten lässt suche ich nach einem Material, das ich in meinem Aquarium bedenkenlos anwenden kann und natürlich ist auch die Frage ob schon jemand damit Erfahrungen gemacht hat? Erstmal die Frage die Ihr euch vielleicht stellt, warum möchte ich Sachen für mein Aquarium drucken? Darauf zu antworten ist ganz einfach, ich gebe mich mit den Lösungen aus dem Aquariumgeschäft nicht zufrieden. Ich will es perfekt haben und so wie ich es will. Da ein Aquarium nun mal biologisch Aktiv ist, geht PLA schon mal nicht. Dann bin ich noch auf XT von Colorfabb gekommen. Da habe ich sogar schon bei Colorfabb nachgefragt, mit folgender Antwort Zitat: In theory colorFabb_XT can be used in aquariums. Due to certain FDA approvals we can assure that the migration of materials is very low to water, food, etc. so it can be used, but there are of course print settings, water temprature, etc. to be considered - which we cannot influence of course. Das klingt schon mal nicht schlecht. Aber dann gibt es nun noch andere Materialien wie CPE und CPE+ welche ich auch bei mir auf Lager habe. Nur dazu habe ich keine Informationen und bei Ultimaker nachfragen geht auch nicht wirklich so einfach wie es bei Colorfabb war (Samstag 23.00 Email gesendet und Montag 8.33 Antwort bekommen). Eine andere Möglichkeit wäre auch noch Kunstharz aus meinem Form 2 Drucker, doch als ich dort diese Frage im Forum geschrieben habe wurde ich in der Luft zerrissen :/ Also was meint Ihr zu dem Thema? Freundliche Grüsse zpm3atlantis
  9. Hi, I got to do some tests for a 3d printed chair design contest and I ended up with an interesting result! With a 20% black PLA grid infill and a shell of 0.1mm with transparent CPE, you can fully see the shape of the infill. The chair scale is 1:20. See for yourself :
  10. Printing a slop_calibrator_parts.stl from the v3.0 snappy reprap. Material: CPE AA 0.4mm Settings: layer height: .2mm speed: 60mm/sec infill: 20% triangular Print temp: 245C Plate Temp: 85C flow: 100% Aborted midprint (for obvious reasons). These are school printers, so it may be hardware. Any solutions?
  11. kcel

    CPE Loading

    Hi All, I have an odd problem. After weeks of playing with nothing but PLA and various support materials, I decided to try some CPE. I can't seem to load into the feeder. Normally when I load the filament into the feeder I push it until I can see it in the bowden tube and then I tell the printer to load. For CPE I can't get the filament pushed through the gears of the feeder. The feeder itself does not appear to be jammed or clogged because I can grab some PLA or PETG and push those through the gears with no problem. I've released the tension on the feeder as much as I can with no effect and I've done the usual thing of trimming the end of the filament with a bit of a point, but it just won't pass through the gears. An odd thing regarding this CPE is that the boxes in comes are plain brown, not the white boxes like my other UM filaments. And there is no sign of the RFID tags. I've removed the RFID reader from my UM3X because the rear stacked filament holders have started to bother me so I can't be positive, but there are no warning stickers about NFC. Did I receive some older version of the filament that is for some reason incompatible with the UM3X? I've tried two different rolls with the same problem. Any ideas would be helpful. Cheers!
  12. teleporteur

    Bavure sur un objet imprimé avec XT

    J'ai des bavures et des cheveux sur mon objet... j'ai essayé avec 2 températures différentes sur 2 impressions cela ne change rien... Peut-être que cela se produit quand la buse se déplace d'un coté à l'autre en directe qu'il y a des restes de fil ? Une option dans cura pour améliorer cela ? Merci pour votre aide Alain
  13. teleporteur

    poids d'une bobine colorfabb

    J'ai besoin de connaitre le poids d'une bobine vide de colorfabb, et j'en ais pas sous la main... C'est pour savoir combien il me reste de fil sur une autre bobine
  14. I am printing a model with PETG (with CTE setting, 245 degrees) + PVA as support. The layers where there is only PETG are fine. However the PETG layers where there is a mix og PETG+PVA is quite weak. As a result, the model splits like this: For the record, I used PVA as support in the open area in the middle. The layer that was split seems quite poor: What can be causing this? I have a theory that the filament is retracted too much when it changes materials.
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