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  1. Hello, I just joined here and I am just getting into 3D printing. Right off the bat I'm having an issue with the Cura 4.6.1 slicer not slicing for me. I am using the Ender 5 Plus which has a 350mm x 350mm print space. It just so happens my model is that exact external dimension... 350mm x 350mm. I have used a different slicing program and printed the model successfully in the past, but with the Cura slicer, unless I reduce the model to around 300mm x 300mm, it gives me error messages when I press the slice button. So something is way off. First I get a Model error when I size up my model to 350mm x 350mm; "Your model is not manifold. The highlighted areas indicate either missing or extraneous surfaces." Then when I hit "slice" I get this message; "Unable to slice. Please review your settings and check if your models: -Fit within the build volume -Are assigned to an enabled extruder -Are not all set as modifier meshes" Can someone possibly explain what I might need to do to extend the print space in Cura enough to be able to slice the print? Or if I'm doing something very wrong in the process... Thank you in advance!
  2. Hello, I'm working on a plugin based on the CustomSupport plugin. But in this case I'm not creating a cube but a cylinder. I haven't any problem to get the right length ( from the picked point to the base) but I wanted to define the radius as a parameter in order to be able to customize this value. Is it possible to add a customized value ? or to get an existing value for this parameter Ie : support_conical_min_width ? Cylinder.zip
  3. Hello All, I'm new to 3d printing and till trying to figure all of the technical stuff so hopefully i can get easy to understand answers 🙂 I just started using Cura with my Creality CR-10s Pro printer. Whenever i start a print the nozzle scraps the bed HARD and i have to manually adjust the z axis up around .15 for it not to. It does this EVERY time i start a new print. I've spent many hours making my z axis bar is level, leveling the bed, adjusting the sensor etc. I used the TinyMachines video for reference I have no idea what i'm doing wrong. I think it has to be the start G-code that Cura provided when i selected my printer, but i'm so new i cannot figure out how best to address the issue. When i use the Creaility slicer it doesn't do this, but i like Cura way more. I'm hoping someone way more knowledgeable could look it over and let me know if they see any issues, or suggest other fixes maybe? Start G-code M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate G28 ;Home G29 ;Auto Bed Leveling G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up Any help is greatly appreciated!
  4. Hi, What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.
  5. Hi, Does anyone know how is there a free software to do the same than Simplify3d can do? https://www.simplify3d.com/support/articles/different-settings-for-different-regions-of-a-model/ I would like to split the sliced code into multiple pieces so that i could shot down the printer and resume the print when ever i want. I know that i might have some issues with material shrinkage and and bet to cold, but i would like to still try this with PLA which should work at some level at least. So basically i would like to 1.print the first part with first GCODE-file 2. park the hot end up left so that it won't foul with the print if it comes from 0,0,0 3. Shut down whole machine for a day or week. (All power off from bed and hot end.) 4.warm the bed / hot end. 5. continue to print the second part where the first one finished with a second GCODE-file.
  6. Hi all. I'm pretty new to 3D printing and I'm currently using a Bibo touch 2. I have a question about the ironing feature in Cura. I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.5 at the moment. I have used this feature as prescribed for smoothing the top layers of prints where I deem it necessary, however, some prints I'm doing where the first layer becomes the top of the model would benefit from ironing as well. Is it possible to set Cura to iron the first layer of the model, obviously excluding the brim or skirt. On some designs I'm incorporating logos or lettering in the first .5mm of the print and the first layer can be really difficult to get consistent results for this type of operation without having the inevitable lines showing slightly. I'm thinking that ironing the first layer would help to smooth it out before continuing on to the second layer. Has anyone got any idea whether it's possible to use ironing for first layers? Many thanks in advance.
  7. Hey guys, I have written a new plugin. This is to automate printing by pushing the model out of the printer with a print head. Code/Instructions here: https://github.com/bugpwr/BulldozerPlugin/ Enjoy!! And don't forget to let enough cooling time in the settings, or you may damage the printer.
  8. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
  9. Hello All, My first question in this forum But I'm sure I'll have more. I'm using Cura 15.04.6 to prepare my files to print with 1.75mm Hatchbox PLA on my ONI Kage Tall. I'm trying to keep detailed records about estimated print times as well as estimated weight of each print. And when each print is done I also record the actual print time so I can compare it with the estimated time. I know this is pretty standard operating procedure but I'll say it anyway. The reason for recording the est. time and real time is so I know when to go remove a print and start a new one if I need to. the reason for recording the estimate weight is I can figure out if there will be enough on any given reel of filament for the next print, or to see if maybe it's time to put on a different reel sp I don't run out of filament mid print and waste time and material. So what my question is, are the estimated time and estimated print weight directly related to each other in a reliable and constant manner. Here is what I've encountered. CURA 15.04.6 has consistently over estimated my print time and not by just a minute or two on my longer prints. Here is an example of a recent print: Estimated Time - 35 Hours 28 Minnutes --- Real Time - 30 Hours 37 Minutes. So in this instance my actual print time is 86.32% of the time estimated by CURA. Could this time ratio be applied to more accurately figure out how much filament was actually used? The estimated weight of this print was 517 Grams. Would it be reasonably accurate to calculate this to be 517 x .8632 = 446.3 Grams? I know the simple way to figure out how much has been used off a reel is to physically weight each print, but I don't have a gram scale and was hoping this maybe a reasonable alternative? Thank you, Kim
  10. I have been using the old 15.04.6 version of Cura for a long time. I have been advised to upgrade to the beta to check out the new features and so far am impressed with the 4.0.0 beta. However, I like my bed and extruder to heat up at the same time and these added lines of G-Code prevent that when I slice. M140 S{print_bed_temperature} M105 M190 S{print_bed_temperature} M104 S{print_temperature} M105 M109 S{print_temperature} M82 ;absolute extrusion mode Where do these lines get added, because I used to be able to heat both at the same time with 15.04.6 with the following code. M107; FANS OFF M140 S{print_bed_temperature} M104 S{print_temperature} G91; RELATIVE POSITIONING G28; HOME ALL AXIS M84; KILL MOTORS M109 S{print_temperature} G90; ABOSOLUTE POSITIONING G1 X5 Y5 F10000; MOVE CLOSE TO HOME G28; HOME ALL AXIS G29; PROBE BED M190 S{print_bed_temperature} G1 Z100; RAISE Z-AXIS TO 100MM G1 X0 F1000; MOVE SLOW TO HOME G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER G1 E10; PRIME NOZZLE M25; WAIT FOR USER G92 E0; ZERO EXTRUDER G1 F{travel_speed}; START M140 S60 G92 E0 I don't want to have to remove the lines everytime I slice a print, can these lines be edited or taken out of start G-Code somewhere?
  11. I cant get cura to connect to my duet mastero server I type in the iP address of my board which connects fine btw to my slic3r I'm able to use slic3r fine but I want to use cura as my slicer and it wont even recognize or connect to my board
  12. Introduction The 3.3 beta introduces new functionality that is intended to improve Cura's ability to print bridges and overhung areas. The current Cura code base has long had the ability to detect when a skin region spans across islands of support and those skins that Cura thinks are bridges will have the direction of the lines aligned with the detected bridge detection. But nothing was done to detect walls that spanned unsupported areas and no changes were made to the wall or skin print speeds, flows or fan speed. The new bridging functionality does now detect when walls cross unsupported regions and it does now modify the print settings for those walls and skin that are determined to be unsupported. This topic introduces the new settings that are grouped together in the experimental section and are enabled using the Enable Bridge Settings checkbox. The settings Explained You will immediately notice that there are quite a few settings. Why so many? Well, I realised pretty early on in my experimentation that modifying the skin settings for the first bridge skin and then using the normal skin settings for the skins above the first does not always lead to a good result. So there are settings to not only modify the print speed, percentage flow, density and fan for the first bridge layer (bottommost layer) but also for the two layers above. If you want to keep things simple you can un-check the Bridge Has Multiple Layers checkbox and then only the first bridge skin layer settings will be modified. The settings used for the bridge walls are Bridge Wall Speed, Bridge Wall Flow (aka line diameter) and Bridge Fan Speed. Also relevant for walls are Minimum Bridge Wall Length which only considers wall line segments that are longer than this length as bridges. Shorter wall line segments are just printed using the normal settings. Bridge Wall Coasting controls a feature that reduces the pressure in the nozzle as it approaches the start of the bridge. This is necessary because the extrusion rate will need to be very much reduced from the normal rate as the speed and flow used on the bridge is likely to be less. If this is not done, the wall line tends to droop very badly at the start of the bridge. Finally, there is Bridge Wall Max Overhang which controls how much a wall line can overhang the layer below before it is considered to be a bridge wall line. By default it is 100% of the wall line width so the line has to be completely over air with no overlap whatsoever with the layer below. Reducing the value of Bridge Wall Max Overhang means that the line doesn't have to overhang the layer below so much for it to be printed using the bridge wall settings. See below for an example of its use. For a given material and print temperature, there will be some combination of the bridge wall settings mentioned above along with Bridge Skin Speed, Bridge Skin Flow (aka line diameter), Bridge Skin Density (line spacing) and Bridge Fan Speed (and the similar settings for the 2 other skin layers) that produces the best results. This is where the fun starts because it's going to require a lot of experimentation to come up with suitable settings. The default values are tested with PLA at 200deg, 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layers and may work OK, or not (YMMV). One other setting is Bridge Skin Support Threshold which is the percentage of a skin area that is supported for it not to be considered a bridge. i.e. skin areas that are supported for less than this percentage (default 50%) are considered to be bridges and will be printed using the bridge settings. Skins that are supported for more than the threshold value will be printed just as normal. Here's some picture that, hopefully, will make things clearer! First, here's the settings showing some typical values: Here is the first bridge layer, I am showing the layerview as feedrate so you can see the speed changes on the bridge. Notice also the coasting just before the bridge walls start (the walls are printed anti-clockwise): Here's the second and third skin layers: Finally, here are a couple of images of a model (thanks to the community member that sent it to me) that has some overhung regions. The first image is using Bridge Wall Max Overhang set to 100% and the second is using 50% and you can see that more of the lines are going to be printed using the bridge settings. For overhangs, I recommend setting Minimum Bridge Wall Length to zero as the wall line segments are likely to be very small. Feedback Required From You Please give it a go and share your experiences, all feedback is welcome (good and bad). You can either reply to this topic or for really bad news, please submit a github issue.
  13. My problem is that I cannot change the "retraction minimum travel" setting. As of now, my printer operates with no retraction at all. The message next to the setting reads, "this setting has been hidden by the active machine and will not be visible". I've tried changing machine settings, uninstalling and reinstalling, I tried asking ultimaker directly.. can anyone help?!
  14. Dear All on the forum, Would anybody be at help for the following? I would like to print a mesh with a cutted hole inside (the model is good, watertight and so on) There is a setting in Mesh Fixes, stating "union overlapping volumes". I would like to have this ON (for another reason). If I turn the model, I can print it fine; wíth the cutted hole (see image 1) If I print the model in the preferred position, I have a problem printing the hole with this setting ON (see image 2). The hole gets visible again with the setting "union overlapping volumes" OFF (see image 3) The reason why I would like to print it with this setting ON, is because I use an external program to make support (in Meshmixer) and therefore the complete print will print at its best. Maybe there are suggestions that helps me out? At this moment I print this models in the position as image 1 (with the hole horizontal), but I would prefer to be able to print the hole vertical as well. Minke
  15. Hello Mr. gr5, I try to 3d print, in dual extrusion, two color vase as You can see in attachment.Dimensions are 152mmx89mmx89 mm. Printing materials are two colours PETG. There is a problem with Cura 4.5 settings prime tower size , and prime tower minimum volume. I have tried many variants of settings but second extruder not works properly.Filament drops down inside the prime tower. Also the height of prime tower is only half of vase height. Please can You help me with those settings. Yours gratefully Vinko Delic
  16. After the first layer of a print, the extruder has some kind of offset and prints the next one displaced a few centimeters from where it should. Every new layer is displaced the same distance as I show you on this photo. After searching about this I tried to fix it by tightening the belts of the ultimaker and updating the firmware, but nothing works, why is this happening and how can I solve it? Thanks.
  17. Hi, Would anyone be able to tell me what settings need to be modified in Cura in order to sort out these features in the photo. Towards the top you can see gaps in the print as if no filament was extruded for the walls. Also how do i sort out the rough surface?
  18. I designed a holder (Shelf type of design) in Fusion 360. Cura told me around 25 hours to print it. For a possible fit problem I decided to scale it to 101%. Now print time is 15 hours. Set back to 100% scale and 25 hours. Set it to 99% and 15 hours. Tried many different settings (infill, layer height, etc.) and rebooted computer with no change. Since I am new to Fusion 360 I went back to A123D and designed the part with it. Same results. I am using Cura 3.6.20 Lulzbot Edition (have their mini printer), then switched to Ultimaker 4.4.1 (use for Creality CR10-S). Totality surprised, had same symptoms. After inspecting with layer view I found at 100% scaling it was doing 100% infill. At 99% or 101% settings the infill is as expected. It also took a very long time to process the layer view at 100% setting. I included two pictures showing the differences. I also included the part file and one of the profiles I used. For now I am going to print at 101% to in order to complete the job. Just wandering if anyone has stumbled across this problem before or knows how to correct it. Thanks, Dick Mini 175 STD pt4Nozzle PLA.curaprofile Pad Holder.stl
  19. Hi, I'm trying to slice an object on my 0.2mm nozzle for a custom 3D printer (Artillery Genius). 0.4mm nozzle and 1mm nozzle work fine but everytime I try to set up 0.2mm (or 0.25 or 0.3mm) it resets it back to 0.4mm after any change. If I try to slice it, It gets back to 0.4mm and slices at 0.4mm. Anyone has the same issue ? I'm switching to slic3r for testing purposes but I do like very much Cura Uu Thank you very much! Best regards, Thomas D
  20. I often balance my print jobs over two printers and when switching from one to the other in Cura, all my settings change. How can I prevent that? It is quote annoying to have to recheck every setting, like infill%, number of walls, wall alternating etc just because I switched to a different printer. It's not like those settings are printer dependent, but Cura treats them as such.
  21. I'm stumped. I live in a country where we don't use mm or cm or anything but inches and feet. How can I reset Cura to inches?
  22. OK. I've been using CURA 3.6 for 4 months with no problems but as of a week ago it is crashing during opening. I've tried to reinstall and it is not helping. I've also tried installing 4.0 now that it is official and it loads but has a blank GUI (The old beta version worked fine 2 months ago when I tried it briefly.)
  23. Hi! I'm aware that the title isn't very clear - but I'm not sure how to describe it - hence the "strange" 🙂 As you can see on the photo, my first layer shows these patterns. There is no problem with layer adhesion or whatsoever - the layer comes out flat and shiny, but with these patterns. Has anyone seen this before? Any idea how to fix this? Printed on an U2+ with U Silver metallic PLA. Standard settings for the material. thanks, Anton
  24. Hello, I am trying to print out a dumbel design with the handle being a sort of progressbar. so you have some empy spacing in between. The original print time was well over 8 hours. I managed to get it to 6. However i noticed while chanigng so many settings that part of my model is greyed out. Does this mean that it wont print this part? How can i solve this? I tried reverting the changes are repositioning the model but i cant seem to figure it out. To give you an idea of what my model looks like, finished, priting it vertically seemed most logical to me and seemed to work better than horizontally as it doesnt remove the words. but the only issue im having now is the handle as it leaves out the bars.. I also included my file if you want to look at it. Kindly help me out.. Thank you in advance! UM2_physicalisation Help.3mf
  25. Hi, I am printing the XYZ calibration cube (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865) which is 20mm in size. When it is sliced in Cura 4.6.1 with initial layer height = 0.1mm and layer height = 0.1mm the result is 198 layers. Shouldn't it be 200 layers? I also notice that when I measure with calipers it is short by approximately .15mm, whereas the X and Y are pretty close to 20mm. Thanks, Steve
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