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  1. Hi, I would like to make an embossing stamp. So I want to print a picture, once 'lighter is higher' and once 'darker is higher'. But when I choose my file, I cannot select one of the options, Cura always makes 'darker is higher'. Does anyone know how I can fix this? I just got the last version from Cura, 4.10.0 Thanks for your help! Martine
  2. Hi all. I'm sure I'm missing something basic here and I've tried playing with settings as described on various troubleshooting guides but I'm at a loss so I've come here x I seem to have a gap between walls and the main body of the print. I first assumed it to be not enough top layers but this is 90% gyroid infill and 12 top layers. Holding the print up to the light shows that there only seems to be a bottom layer where the gaps are. I'm sure I am missing a setting, I just can't work out out what it is.
  3. Bonjour j'ai installer ultimaher cura 4.10.0 quand je clique sur découper la pièce que je veux imprimer le logiciel indique impossible de découper avec les paramètres actuels. les paramètres suivants contiennent des erreurs 2 hop speed. Quel est la solution ? Cordialement
  4. Bare with me, I am still new to this. I am getting bad layer adhesion with this filament So recently started trying to tune temperature for my Formfutura volcano PLA. The manufacturer settings recommend between 220 and 255. I set up this temperature tower: cube 245 at the bottom is temperature 220 since the first layer I wanted to print the lowest temp to ensure a stable base like the maker who made this tower reccomended. You can see it is by far the best at 220 , I had hoped to print a tiny bit higher to get better layer adhesion like I have read online, since when I printed a test
  5. Hello, I'm wanting to print a hollow hexagonal tube in which the wall thickness in the model is 0.4 mm, the same as my nozzle. (Screenshot (40).png) When I try to slice it, there are many gaps and voids where nothing is extruded. (Screenshot (41).png) When I check the "Print thin walls" option, it does fill in those gaps but instead of the nozzle tracing direct paths between the vertices, it scribbles several of the lines, where the gaps would otherwise be. (Screenshot (42).png and Screenshot (43).png) An interesting note, when I change the surface mode to "Surface"
  6. Can anyone explain why the filament keeps jamming in the print head? Its happened twice and every time i need to take apart the head to get out the stuck/melted piece! Im using PLA at 200C temp.
  7. Bonjour à tous, Nouveau sur votre Forum, j'espère que vous ne m'en tiendrez pas rigueur si je me trompe de post, mais je n'ai pas trouvé ailleurs pour ma première entrée en matière. J'imprime tout bêtement un pot, genre pot à crayon (rond ) et sur la première couche il se passe un phénomène curieux... la parois interne s'exécute mais au lieu de faire te tour du cercle simplement, des petits rectangles sont accolés à ma première couche et les suivantes d'ailleurs alors que mon STL est un pot cylindrique avec un fond et une parois, point...Pourquoi donc Cura (4.10) irait me rajouter ces (ex
  8. I have access to another UM printer. The UM2 prints the size expected, mine prints differently on the x and y axis (my UM3 prints slightly larger on each, but different percent on each axis. Z seems OK). I will get exact measurements tomorrow, but Has anyone seen this before? Any suggestions on correcting? I first noticed this when printing parts for another 3d printer that needs the parts to run. Any assistance or advice is apprecited.
  9. I'd like to add LEDs to my UMO+ that I have running Marlin v2. Some other posts mention the Ultimainboard v2.1.1 used in the UMO+ having an LED PWM output that can be used. It would be nice to buy the correct adapter and solder the LED strip to the adapter for easy install and remove rather than solder the LED leads directly to the board and risk breaking something. There are some pictures on the internet showing the LED PWM connector but I haven't found the name of it yet. I've attached a photo with the port in question circled. What connector type is the LED PWM por
  10. Bonjour, Je tiens par avance à m'excuser si je ne suis pas dans la bonne section du forum pour résoudre mon problème ou si ce type de problème a déjà été traité. J'utilise le slicer Cura (4.8.0) depuis un long moment et j'ai un problème avec une pièce particulière. Comme vous pouvez le voir sur la photographie en pièce jointe, sur certains cotés de la pièce en question, le mur extérieur est imprimé à l'intérieur du remplissage. De plus, deux côtés de la pièce ont été totalement coupés (ne correspondent pas au fichier STL fournis au logiciel). Voici
  11. Hey ya'll, I had this idea a while back to fill a 3d print with concrete to give it some heft and then paint it. That worked great, but I had a few issues. Namely, the stl I had needed some support on the inside to print well. My initial print had a few small holes and when I poured the concrete mixture, it made a bit of a mess. Mind you, this was maybe last year, several months ago at least. So the exact details are a bit fuzzy. Well, I started printing some new models from Scan The World and it got me pretty fired up to try this method again. Figured I'd try the
  12. I am connecting my Creality 3 V2 printer to the usb connector on my computer. But when I try to connect to the processor on the Creality printer, I get no response from the printer. My computer recognizes the connection when I plug in the printer by giving me an acknowledgement tone but the screen shows no connection and says "Not connected to a printer". I set up the printer settings in the application but there is no acknowledgement of an existing printer. I would like to setup my printer using Cura but I may have to go elsewhere. Any suggestions?
  13. Hallo zusammen. Ich möchte ein Architekturmodell drucken. Wenn ich meine Stl-Datei importiere kann ich die Datei nur auf minimal 1% skalieren. Einen Wert unter 1% nimmt das Programm nicht an. Gibt es einen Trick mit dem ich mein Modell kleiner skalieren kann? Danke für eure Hilfe
  14. I can not connect to my anet a8 pritner. In Ponterface the pritner connects but in cura it does not.
  15. Using a Robo 3D R1+, connected with Octoprint. I have updated octoprint to 1.40. Connect To Octoprint plugin version is: 3.5.12 Just started using 4.5 and noticed 2 things in paticular: 1. the preheat box is now blank when i go to the monitor page. - Previously this was populated by whatever temperatures i had set on my material (i thought) now i have to put it in manually. 2. when i put the desired temp in it will send it to the printer BUT it will not give an accurate reading of the Extruder OR Bed temperatures any more once it has sent
  16. Hallo bin neu hier und hätte gleich eine Frage ist es möglich den Z Hop nur im Support ausführen zu lassen?
  17. I am looking for a way to prevent strands of filament being formed by the initial pass on a vertical hole that has a support structure under it. I use the default roof support interface and invariably get strands of filament on the edge of holes as shown in the attached image. I would also appreciate any suggestions to get a cleaner "roof" in parts like this. The spacing of the filament on that first supported layer is so bad that it looks like some of the support is still attached to the part even though it seemed to separate easily.
  18. Has anyone seen this type of issue with their prints? (see attached photos) I'm working with the Ultimaker ABS Black filament, using the default/recommended settings in Cura. Any thoughts on how I can prevent this from happening? thanks!
  19. Hello, I am using a geeetech A10M with a twin extruder single nozzle. During the first layer the nozzle heater turns off allowing it to cool during the print. Once the first layer is finished it pauses whilst it heats up again (Not always to the same setting) I currently have both extruders set to 205 degrees for both printing temperature and initial layer temperature. I would really appreciate any suggestions. Thanks ToHoverNoBover
  20. For the last week, I have been having a print glitch on the same 3 areas on my design. I have tried reslicing it with different settings (variables such as - adding 1 extra parimeter wall, printing the effected areas as solid, changing the infill style from grid to gyro, and testing 0.1 and 0.15 layer height). I have also updated cura, and tried printing the the design on 4 different ultimakers (all 2+ models). the print issue persists. I have printed the design successfully before, but at a scale of 18cm rather than the 20cm it currently is, but I'm not sure why that w
  21. Hallo zusammen, wir haben ein Problem bei unserem UM2: beim Anheben und Senken treten immer wieder Knackgeräusche auf (siehe Video). Ebenfalls beim Starten des Drucks. Außerdem schwingt die Z-Achse heftig beim anheben und senken. Vielen danke für Ihre Bemühungen. der erste druck hat die Original Größe die nachfolgenden werden automatisch immer kleiner ohne Änderung der Einstellungen UM2 rattert - Kopie.zip raise builtplate.MOV.mp4.zip
  22. I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration be
  23. I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 trying to print two small objects using the 'One at a Time' option, and no matter how I arrange them I cannot get them to print: As soon I pressed 'Slice' it reduced the build volume to avoid the gantry clashing with the prints, but now it wont slice. I can't see how the gantry (25 mm height) could collide with the first print in this case regardless of how low the gantry was since the models are spaced very far apart. Any way to fix this?
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