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  1. here's the situation: Z Distance between the nozzle in Core 1 and Core 2 seemed not remembered by the firmware, or it is ignored during print, or something went wrong during calibration. Core 1 will always be well calibrated and printing well, however, Core 2 will always got pressed too close to the bed that blocks the filaments from coming out. After Active leveling, Core 2 nozzle always pressed too close the bed during print, as if it is ignoring the result done during calibration.. after running more of tests, it seems that Manual Leveling does not have this issue. I have done a lot of tests, switching print cores(i have purchased one extra print core), and the result is the same. So i guess it is not the problem of the print cores but something is wrong with the machine doing Z calibration. And it seemd to me the machine is ignoring the Z calibration that is done in active leveling, so every time when print started, it went all the way pressing nozzle too close to bed again. Not sure if this is a firmware issue but i would like to post here to see if it shines any clues. Some other users also have this similar problem and is forced to print on one nozzle (Core 1), unless one kept doing manual leveling and forces the machine to never do auto leveling thus not to override manual leveling setting. And this seemed to happen fairly recently, so i guess it could be something about the latest firmware update.
  2. Hallo! Ich habe seit ca einem halben Jahr einen Anycubic i3 Mega und bin fleißig am drucken. Mittlerweile habe ich die fünfte Rolle Filament durch und das Hotend ist nun auch das dritte... Alle bisherigen Probleme (es waren sehr, sehr wenige) konnte ich alleine lösen, aber nun weiß ich nicht weiter. Habe neulich für einen Han Solo Blaster ein Teil von thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:882673 - unten angehängt) gedruckt, am oberen Ende angekommen, hielt das Bett leider das Teil nicht mehr und alles verrutschte. Da wollte ich Schlaukopf das Teil einfach nochmal auf dem Kopf gestellt ausdrucken und dann einfach die beiden Teile zusammen kleben (was für ne Hirnleistung... XD). Nun passiert aber, dass beim Druck das Hotend nicht weiter als die erste Lage hinspuckt, dann auch fleißig weiterdruckt aber nicht auf der Z-Achse hochfährt dabei, sprich er schmiert sich einen großen Haufen Filament überall hin. Und das auch bei allen weiteren Teststücken, egal wie sie heißen oder welches Format. Das hatte ich ganz am Anfang schonmal, da half eine Neuinstallation von Cura. Nun nicht mehr... Mehrfach habe ich verschiedene Versionen komplett deinstalliert und neu installiert leider ohne Erfolg. Z-Achse lässt sich über Display und Cura heben und senken, alle Einstellungen waren so wie immer. Habe dieses Problem nirgends mittels SuFu finden können, vielleicht weiß ja wer Rat...? Ich bin nicht der absolute Hardcorecrack bei den Fachbegriffen, ich druck Dinge aus für Cosplay, Wargaming etc. So bitte ich eventuelle ungenaue Beschreibungen oder fehlende Fachbegriffe zu verzeihen... Uuuuund nochmal in übelstem Schulenglisch: bzw Aaaaand once again in worst school english: Hello! I've had an Anycubic i3 mega for about half a year and since i am busy printing. Meanwhile, I have emptied the fifth role Filament and the Hotend is now the third... All previous problems (there were very, very few) I could solve alone, but now I do not know farther. Recently printed a part of thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:882673 - attatched down there) for a Han Solo Blaster, arrived at the top, unfortunately the bed no longer held the part and everything slipped away. No problem, I intend to be a wise guy and just print the part again turned upside down and then just stick the two parts together (what brain power ... XD) . Now happens, however, that during printing, the Hotend does not spit more than the first layer, then continue to diligently print on but not moving on the Z-axis, so he smears a large pile of filament everywhere. And the same with all other test pieces, no matter whats their name or format. I had that at the very beginning, there helped a reinstall of Cura. Well, not anymore... Several times I have completely uninstalled and installed several versions without success. Z-axis can be raised and lowered on the display and Cura, all settings were as usual. Did not find this problem anywhere via search, maybe somebody knows what to do ...? I am not the absolute hardcore crack, just using the printer for parts for Cosplay, wargaming etc. I want to apologize, if the technical terms are not the best... flash_suppressor.stl
  3. I recently got myself a second hand (thirs hand maybe?) UM3, and after cleaning it up and doing all the calibrating, one thing still bothers me... The frame lights are completely different colours! The left is a very blue white, probably around 5500K and the right is a white so warm its basically a banana - Around 2300K if my well trained eye isn't mistaken. See attached picture, it's taken in overcast sunlight so pretty neutral. I can post more pictured once it's dark and the light is more visible. Is this a result of something up with the firmware or some random customisation, or are the strips just really weird? I know you can supposedly program these in full RGB, so if I can find a fix through that, I'd be more than happy to give it a go, too! Either way, this really hurts my soul at the moment.
  4. Hello, To start with first my different machines. First a desktop (self made) with Windows10 Ver. 1903 Build 18362.267. Graphics Nvida Geforce GTX 650. Installed Cura 4.2.1, no problems what so ever. Second a Laptop HP Windows10 Ver. 1903 Build 18362.267 with Intel HD Graphics Driver version Installed Cura 4.2.1, no problems noted. My work Laptop Asus Vivo Book Windows10 Ver. 1903 Build 18362.239 and. 267 after update with Intel UHD Graphics 600 driver version 2420.100.6287. Installed Cura 4.2.1 will not start, reinstalled the previous beautiful working 4.1 splash screen came up until "The configuration will be updated" then disappeared and did not start up. The task manager had three cura.exe showing with 0% working but three different sizes, one had 53.2 Mb, one had 4.6 MB and the last one had 53.0 Mb. Stopped all exe and restarted the laptop. Uninstalled both Cura version and restart the laptop again. Installed Version 4.1 but it do not want to start. Uninstalled 4.1, restart installed 4.0 with the same result, no start. The compatibility with Windows 8 I tried at first, before I started all the rest, I forgot to mention that. Uninstalled 4.0 installed 3.6 and it worked. Then I had a good idea and formatted 😏 my harddrive, reinstalled Windows with version 1903, installed Cura 4.2.1 with the same results as before. Also any version with a 4 will not start anymore. Version 3.6. works beautiful as before but I'm not able to got any Version 4. to work. That was my weekend. If somebody has any idea please answer me. I need a little help now. WillemII
  5. I am running CURA 3.6.18 on Windows 10. I am trying to modify the bed temperature settings before exporting to gcode. In my interface under "Manage Profiles..." I am unable to modify the bed temperature even when I duplicate the profile. Is there another place on the GUI that I need to look for this?
  6. Hi, I had problems printing 2 parts at the same time so I made them print one and then the other. I left, because I had to go shopping for food, and when I came back, one model was nice done ( the first one), but the other was stuck to the print bed like crazy and when I removed it and measured it with calipers in the Z direction, the second model was about 3mm lower than the other and the ultrabase below it was all scratched up and the nozzle will probably need itself being replaced. From what I saw I can surely say that something (probably cura) made the second print start 3mm below the bed level, resulting in my bed being destroyed, luckily on almost the very edge. I had it leveled and when I checked the bed screws, none were loose. Leveling the bed afterwards wasn't necessary, the bed was completely leveled and the distance between the bed and the nozzle was the same everywhere, just the very tip of the nozzle got brushed off. If it is really the Cura's fault, it should be fixed ASAP. I was very lucky I didn't print it in the center and that it was a very small object, so I don't have to replace the whole print bed due to this. Anyone has any ideas what could this be caused by? Thanks.
  7. Am I missing something or cant you do this on an SG. Surely you can Some guidance please Thanks Alex
  8. Hello all, I am trying to send a file to UM3 using cluster-api/print_jobs cluster-api/v1/print_jobs/ In this API, there is an optional input field called x-Fields. I assume i can use it in order to send info about the printing job file, like limitations for material or extruder type, temperature range and others.. is this correct? how can i use it? in case that x-Fields is not the right way, is there some other way to do it? in general i see that x-Fields is optional for other APIs as well, where do i get more detailed documentation about using x-Fileds in these various APIs? it seems that gcode slicing files that were saved from cura, can include such info on them. but i need to find a way to control other files as well (not created from Cura), so i need some way to pass those options to the printer
  9. On Swagger I am able to change the name of the printer with the following command curl -X PUT --header 'Content-Type: application/json' --header 'Accept: application/json' -d '"zaaf77"' '' But When I run the same command into the command prompt (by changing the single quotes into double) it gives the following error {"message": "Authorization required."} How do I authorize it? I am struggling with the logic as well as syntax mainly! I know the id and key you can get from the following command: curl -X POST --header 'Content-Type: application/x-www-form-urlencoded' --header 'Accept: application/json' -d 'application=laravel&user=mughalz1' '' How do I use this id and key? Or would the id and key be the "root" and "ultimaker"? again if it is "root" and "ultimaker", how do i use it in the cURL command, Can anyone help with the syntax please? Actually, i am trying to develop my own interface so that someone can print a model from my website directly. Any thoughts please... ..?
  10. Hi everyone, this is my first post on this forum. I just updated from Cura 4.1.0 to 4.2.1 and i found that the generated supports don't work as they used to anymore. I've attached screenshots of both versions with the same model and the same print settings. In version 4.1 the supports were created as they're supposed to, but in 4.2.1 they stop sometimes halfway through, sometimes just before touching the object. The way this looks, I don't think the supports work quite right. Is this a known feature or bug or did I just mess something up? Thanks for your answers!
  11. Guys I am in dire need of your assistance.... So I took on the challenge of building a cloned Ultimaker 2 Extended (with a few self mods) but have run into a problem at the last hurdle. So basically the first layer goes down incredibly well with the X & Y axis printing out perfectly and dimensions are perfect too but thats when things to to hell. After the second layer or so there seems to be both an issue with under extrusion and Z axis height. Now I have both checked the step height on the Z axis and the extruder and both are moving at acceptable distances. I.e I have moved the Z axis 25mm and the resulting movement has 25.195 (i am an engineer with advances measuring equipment) the same goes with the extruder I have extruded 50mm of material and have measured 52.5 (a little over I know but wouldn't explain under extrusion). In an attempt to alleviate this issue I updated the firmware to TinkerMaker but the problem still persists. I have also added a cooling fan to the stepper drivers which has made no difference. The power supply is a 24V 15A so should be able to handle things, I have reduced bed temperature to 25DegC just in case I was overloading. I am basically at the pulling out of hair stage and could be doing with a fresh perspective if anyone could help.
  12. Is it somehow possible to have a separate wall thickness for walls on the inside of my model? I am currently preparing to print a threaded piece with a fairly large diameter and hollowed out the middle of the piece to save material and printing time. However, as I have set a wall thickness of 3mm to make my threads more robust, Cura slices the walls around the hollow space also 3mm wide, which defeats the whole purpose of hollowing out that space in the first place... Any ideas or suggestions? Cheers, Oliver
  13. Hi Just wondering is Ultimaker launching a new add-on for long prints where it loads a new spool automatically, say if you had a large print overnight or a weekend so there is less downtime. I see the Parusa now has a mutli material device that can load 5 different material/ spools. https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/upgrades/183-original-prusa-i3-mk25smk3s-multi-material-2s-upgrade-kit-mmu2s.html?search_query=multi+material&results=11 Can you do this with the second extruder, if the first runs out of material can the second extruder continue on.
  14. So, I tried to print the cr-10 v6 heavy duty mount for like 50+ times, with different filaments, various slicings, but it always keeps failing on the same point. I am getting extremely irritated. No print ever failed with s3d, but with cura 4.2.1 I only get fails. The filament at the extruder part gets destroyed and so it stops extruding, everytime. If this won't get any reply I'll report it on github. CCR10S_CR-10_HD-modular-mount-V6_mount.gcode test.curaprofile files.zip
  15. Hi, my UMO+ extruder works only if the hotend temp ist above the temperature for the print. Also i cant move the extruder in the move-axis menu, if the hotend temperature is higher then the set temperature. If the temperature of the hotend reaches the set temperatur, it works. During the print, the extruder stops always the temperature drops under the set temperature. Ideas? PS Extruder stops under 170°C.
  16. Hi, I'm just learning Cura and have a question about defining walls within the interior of a model. My naive approach was to do this with per-model infill settings, where one model in completely enclosed within the other and used to locally modify the infill density to 100%. This seems to work, but there are many switches and knobs available that I still don't know anything about - is there a better way? For example, the attached model is a simple cube with a tube curving through it...what's the best way to make the walls of the tube solid so as to form an interior passage? What settings are most relevant for this sort of thing? Note that I am not particularly concerned with the printability of this example. Right now, I'm just focused on learning how to use Cura itself. Thanks! UMS5_Cube.3mf
  17. I searched and don't see this topic, so pardon me if this has already been answered. I am running Cura 4.2.1 on Ubuntu via the official AppImage and I am unable to sign in to the Ultimaker Cloud. When I click the "Sign In" button next to Marketplace, a panel pops up with both the Sign In and Create Account options, but neither button functions when pressed. The buttons highlight on hover, but do not function on click. Does any one have a suggestion on how to fix this? Thanks!
  18. Hi all! I'm experiencing an issue where suddenly combing is not working. I've tried every combing setting but they are all giving me the same results. 3DV_CalibrationTest_HorizontalExpansion.gcode 3DV_CalibrationTest_HorizontalExpansion.3mf
  19. diverkev

    new frame

    Hi, I have just built a new larger frame for my printer which has a larger print area. I now realise that the print area is controlled in the firmware. Can anyone tell me where I can find an easy to follow guide on how to change the print area available. I have found that it is in the configuration.h file but do not understand where this is or how to access it. Thanks
  20. Hello there, I am new to this forum, I have been 3d printing for a few years so far and though I have been reading this forum in the shadows now I registered to try to get some answers. Hope I can keep learning from you and contribute a bit with my little knowledge now that I am registered 😃 Having said this, the problem is: I have been experiencing Y-axis layer shifts on different 3d printers, several Anet E12 and my new Creality CR10-s Pro. Belt tension is ok, iddle pulleys, teethed gears, jerk control both disabled and enable at lower mm/s, smooth carriage movement, and everything that comes to your mind after reading the dreaded y-axis layer shift, basically hardware stuff has been double-checked hundreds of times. The point is that it all started after updating to Cura 3.6, then I downgraded to 3.5.1 thinking that it could be a bug (i've read quite a few comments about people experiencing the same issues with 3.6) but the point is that I still have it, Y-axis layer shifts at same heights (and sometimes at different heights) The point is that I SOLVED the problem simply by using Repetier Host with Cura Engine as a slicer, and it prints as a charm. However, the question that is driving me crazy is: WHY? Why can't I print without a bloody y-axis layer shift using Cura instead? Please find attached 4 pictures printed today with Cura 3.5.1: at 0.1 layer height and 60mm/s at 0.1 layer height and 40mm/s at 0.2 layer height and 60mm/s (shifted 2 layers then got back to its original position) at 0.2 layer height and 40mm/s Prints at 0.1 layer height have the layer shift earlier and at slightly different heights Prints at 0.2 layer height have the layer shift later on and at exactly the same height. I'd appreciate some help and comments on this topic. Thanks in advance.
  21. Experts, I am a middle school teacher having students use Tinkercad for their design, printing to Ultimaker 2+. In recent times, some students at the end of their prints have the printer bury the nozzle in the print, squirt out filament into a small blob. When this happens, the feeder also chews up the filament and it needs to be cut and re-threaded. This issue seems to be happening more and more frequently on three of my six printers. Things I have tried: updating printer firmware Re-exporting stl files from TinkerCad and re-slicing them Using new, reformated SD cards If anyone knows the answer to this question of what is causing this issue and how I can get it to stop, I would greatly appreciate this. Looking forward to the expert community chiming in. Cheers, James
  22. Hello. I would like some help troubleshooting some printing issues I have recently been having. My hospital got a 3D printer several months ago and we have been successful with our prints and making complex models with tough PLA and PVA support (I also attached a previous successful model printed with same settings). Recently, my models are not adhering to the print bed to itself. I have tried with PLA supports and PVA supports. I have unloaded and reloaded the filaments as well. I also reset the print settings to default. I have tried all different recommended settings with no help. My printer continues to print strings that are not adhering to anything. Sometimes it starts to adhere to bed and then fails or will not adhere to plate at all. The only causes I can think of are the following: Filament hydration? I am in New Mexico, an arid climate but do not store the filaments in a desiccator. Perhaps this is the issue? Settings not correct? Print speed too fast? We recently tried ninjaflex 3.0 mm and did not have any success with this. We attributed this to the size of 3.0mm. Print head clogged? The print heads seem to be extruding fine... Should I be doing regular cleaning?
  23. Hi there. I tried to slice multiple times and print a lot of times, but this print always fails on the same spot because of underextrusion... what can I do? I use a cr-10S with a V6. Thank you. CCR10S_P2P3D_M5_Gantry_CableMount PETG ABL.gcode CCR10S_P2P3D_M5_Gantry_CableMount.3mf
  24. Hello and Hi ,i have been having this problem where cure fills the shaft hole with a skin and for the life of me cant seem to fix it or remove it i have sliced it with replicator g40 and comes out ok but not great i have asked all kind of communitys to assist but no luck if anyone can help i will really apritiate it i have attached a picture of how it looks on Cura and with the Build preview Regard Matt !0 tooth sprocket (7).stl
  25. Hi, The sensor on my printer is acting up and I struggle to get a print started. I would purchase one, but gigdigit and monoprice don't have any available. Would anyone happen to have one that they are willing to sell? I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks Chip
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