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Found 2,286 results

  1. I'm trying to use the GCode post processing plugin "Pause at height" and either I'm too stupid to figure it out or it isn't working. I have a 25mm tall test print and I select "Pause at height" which opens with 5.0mm as the default height. I close that window and select Save to file and open the GCode file in a text editor. I see at the top ";POSTPROCESSED" but when I look at the ;LAYER before Z5, at Z5, and after Z5 there are no GCode commands added to the file. If I perform the same experiment with "Tweak at Z", it works as expected and there are GCode commands added to the file (to change the selected parameter). Am I doing something wrong? If so, what? If it works for you, please let me know what steps you took.
  2. I'm running Cura 4.0 on a Silhouette Alta through my MacBook Pro with macOS Mojave. Since the MacBook only has USB-C ports, I'm connected over a USB-C to USB-A adapter then the normal USB-A to USB-B cable. I'm printing over USB because the Alta has no provisions for printing from SD or other memory. I am new to Cura, but I have found others on the forum using Cura with the Alta so I know it's possible. When I print, it executes my Start G-Code to home all axes, move to the dump, prime the nozzle, move back to the bed, and print a prime blob on the bed. Then once it reaches the actual part print, everything just stops. The effector stops moving, the hot end heater stays on, and Cura keeps counting up the % complete, but no printing is happening so I have to abort the print. I tried saving the G-code then copy-pasting it into the G-code input field in the monitor tab one line at a time to verify there's no issue with the G-code generated during slicing. It all looks good, I managed to print the first layer this way. Yes, it took forever. So it seems like either Cura either stops sending commands after the Start Code or my printer isn't receiving/processing the commands. Can anyone offer any advice?
  3. hello in the new update of cure in advanced profile system I see that I can modify parameters of the printers as the steps of the engines among others, with this method could mount a kit bondtech in my um3 adjusting the steps from cure? Thank you
  4. Hi! I am using Ultimaker 2+ for prototyping components of machines. These parts are not geometrically complicated nor have fine details, but I want these prototypes to be more or less functional, so the priorities are: - Dimensional stability (the lowest warping) - good mechannical properties (specially critical is the layer adhesion). Up to now, I have used PLA, which has a good dimensional stability, but its mechannical behaviour is not so good, and ABS, which is quite stronger but only works well when the pieces doesn't have long and straight faces or walls (contraction issues: warping and interlayer cracks). I have also tried HIPS, whose contraction is a bit lower than ABS, but still warps quite a lot if the piece has a high infill and straight walls (besides, its adhesion to the build plate is very soft). I wanted to try nylong, but it requires managing humidity... According to your experience, which material is the best for functional prototyping? Thanks in advance
  5. When I startup my Ultimaker it default temperature is 50 degrees. This causes bad extrusion of course. Do I need to buy a new temp sensor? or is something else wrong? Thanks
  6. Hi all I have 3 ultimaker 2 printers upgraded with Olsson block's and Bondtech extruder's. At least 50% of the time, the machines fail to print the first layer of a new print and i have to abort the print, remove the bowden tube and trim the 'blobby' filament back. Once I've done this, the printer works perfectly . This happens to all three printers. Its driving me mad... Today I have replaced the bowdens and PTFE couplers on all machines hoping that it would resolve the problem - still does it! Any thoughts? I'm running out of ideas!
  7. Bonjour tout le monde, Depuis peu, j'imprime en 3D du PP mais je ne comprends pas, j'ai un rendu "sale". DidierKlein m'avait imprimé une pièce dans le passé et en comparant la photo de celle-ci et mon essais, c'est trop flagrant pour que ce soit normal. La configuration Cura est par défaut, le plateau a été recalibré correctement après la photo ci-dessous. J'ai constaté que le filament sortait de la buse en montant presque instantanément. Par exemple, les renforts ne sont pas bien fait. Ce qui est bizarre, c'est que, à certains endroits du plateau, des zones sont bien faites et d'autre non, malgré que j'ai recalibré plusieurs fois le plateau (on peut le voir pour les brims d’ailleurs). J'ai tenté 220°, 215°, 210°, 200 °C et plateau à 100 °C... Je suis désespéré car je ne sais pas ce qu'il se passe ni pourquoi j'ai ce résultat là. Est-ce environnementale, température trop haute ? Mes essais ne m'apportent pas de réponses. J'ai une Ultimaker 2+, papier adhérent (Ultimaker kit) et fenêtre plexiglas pour l'avant. Je vois pas ce qu'il faut de plus pour que ça imprime bien...
  8. I experienced a bad print with old, bad PLA. The print had lots of retractions and the filament broke just before going into the extruder. By the time I got home, the melted filament in the nozzle had burned and crystallized under 220c for over 8 hours, clogging the nozzle quite well, indeed. Then I did something stupid. I couldn't clean the nozzle no matter what I tried. Warm pull, cold pull, removed the nozzle and tried scraping. I then thought it would be a good idea to use a drill bit to drill partially down into the hardened plastic and pull it out, like a stripped screw. I should have used my lathe with a vice to control the depth better, because as soon as the slowly spinning bit met the plastic, it got pulled too deep into the nozzle. When I pulled the bit out, I had some plastic ( yay!) but also saw brass (no yay!). Going to my stash of Olsen Block nozzles used reliably on my U2, I realized for the first time that the nozzle used in the new U3 AA/BB print head assemblies has longer & different threads 😞 Guess I could steal the .4mm nozzle from my BB core sitting on the table. (I had already swapped the BB core for my 2nd AA core to do a 2-color print). Having followed the excellent @gr5 youtube video on how to disassemble the print core, I was soon back in business. (I have since also seen the cutaway drawings for the .4mm nozzles from both the AA & BB cores. They are different inside and I don't know if using it for printing PLA/ABS et.al., is worse than using the original .4mm from the AA core?) I went looking for a place that sold just the U3 print core nozzles and found zero. I understand Ultimaker came up with an easily swappable print core system, but the nozzle is still relatively easy to remove/replace that it seems that there sould be a market for it. Having to pay $114 for a replacement AA core makes me sad. Might as well go for a 3DSolex core with multiple nozzles, including the ruby one. Does anyone know of a place that sells just the nozzles for the U3 print cores?
  9. After 3 months sleeples nights finally I solved the problem. Just watch the video ;))
  10. Hi, I was trying to print some self-made filamet but experienced some problems improving the printing quality. The filament is not ideal since it doesn't have a consistent diameter which is probably the main reason for an inconsistent extrusion. I was trying some different temperature settings and also a temperature calibration tower. The problem is that i have to find a good starting temperature for the first layer so i can try different temperatures in one printing session, otherwise the first layer of the temperature tower is seperating from the heatplate and the layers do not stick together. The thing i don't understand is why the outer lines of the brim i was printing have "good" quality and after 3-4 lines the quality rapidly declines (See picture). Anyone experienced similar results when printing ? What is the reason for that? Can i change my printing settings to have the quality of the first 3-4 lines for my whole printing process? I was thinking that maybe the filament for the first lines remains longer in the nozzle during the heating process which is the reason for the improved quality? Thank you in advance for your answers
  11. First off, I do not know if this is a Marlin issue or a CURA issue. It may be some interaction. I just updated my delta printer from a VERY old version of Marlin to 1.1.9. I am using CURA 3.6 with both the older version of Marlin and the newer one. After updating to Marlin 1.1.9 I used Pronterface to level the bed and check Z height (I manually level and have EEPROM disabled). Everything looked fine. I then used CURA 3.6 to fire off a print through Octoprint. My CURA settings have the first layer set to 0.18mm. I have changed nothing in CURA nor Octoprint between the time when I used CURA to do this print with the older firmware and the newer firmware. The hot end dropped to about 5mm off of the bed and started printing. Not optimal. I have checked my CURA settings, the Z offset is 0.0. I modified no Marlin configuration.h calibration options for bed leveling or calibrations - and note that Pronterface correctly followed G0 commands to go to 0.2mm. I have attached my gcode file. Any insight that anyone has is appreciated. Thanks, DLC CFFFP_Small_FlexiStego_Supports.zip
  12. The Ultimaker 2 Go is advertised as having a print volume of 120 x 120 x 115 mm, but I am frequently unable to print objects smaller than that. I get a message from Cura saying that it is unable to slice because the model doesn't fit in the print volume. I have Support and Adhesion turned off, so they shouldn't affect the print volume. I've attached an example file that won't print on my Go, even though it is significantly smaller than the Go's advertised print volume. Is the Go's print volume smaller than advertised? Or is there a bug in Cura? go_test.stl
  13. In cura when I log in with the Ultimaker cloud I get this(attached picture). The "Review your connection" button does not work. Trying to print on a UM3 from a different network does not work.
  14. I performed the stepper driver hack (linked below) to help reduce zebra stripes in my prints the other day and all seemed fine at the time. This morning, I was trying to load filament for the first time since the hack into the 2nd printhead of my U3Ext and the extruder stepper wouldn't turn. If I lean in close to the extruder, I can faintly, barely hear the steps being sent to the stepper. It climbs in pitch and back down again, just as if the extruder were loading the filament but it doesn't spin. Seems the stepper commands are working but the voltage is so low, nothing happens? Is the stepper driver under R103 the one for extruder #2? That was the last short I made over the resistors. Didn't take any longer than the other 4. Looking at the photos I took after, it doesn't appear to be shorting anything else. The SMD resistor didn't move etc. I'll have to revisit it to check if maybe I shorted one of the pads to another. R102 is the one where the SMD resistor fell off. So if any of the steppers was misbehaving, it would kind of make sense it would be that one, though shorting a resistor is the same as shorting two pads with no resistor. Sigh 🤨
  15. Hi. I was wondering if there was a setting in cura for support layer height, and if there isn't if it could be implemented in the next update. Thanks!
  16. I have read https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/34012-get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors on doing a multi color (or material) print. I have an ender 3 (so single extruder) printer, so will cura (4.0) just put the change material code in the gcode? Also, I am looking at creating the object in blender or fusion 360 and bringing it into cura, if I do multiple STL files, they will not line up when they are imported. Is there a way to do either a single file with multiple objects, or multiple files that will use the global coordinates so that when it comes into cura it won't align with the bed, rather are imported in place? I don't want to have to align everything manually in cura every time.
  17. I am brand new in the 3D printing world. I just bought an ender 3 and have exclusively used Cura 4.0 for my slicing software. I have completed maybe 50 prints so far, but every so often during a print the nozzle just pauses and "waiting for user" is displayed. Nothing moves on until I am forced to push the button on the ender 3. Of course if I'm not around to push the button, the 210 degree nozzle just melts all the previously printed material, ruining my print. From what I've learned it appears this has something to do with a "pause at height" setting or plugin or whatever it is. I'm not trying to do anything difficult or out of the ordinary. I'm not even wanting to switch filaments during a print. All I want is for the printing to complete without pausing. Plain and simple. Is this possible? How do I make the change? Will the changes stay for subsequent prints? Also what would cause this on some prints but not others? I've read about g-code. I'm guessing that has a lot to do with any possible pauses during a print. I don't even know where to find the g-code, let alone mess with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
  18. Hello, during prints with a Ultimaker 2+ my nozzle keeps touching into the material, digging it's nose into the freshly printed material, warping the whole print. At the and of the prints the build plate doesn't seems to move down anymore, finishing at a certain height, just spinning around, melting PLA with its tip. Earlier prints with the same models didn't have the problem. So the problem seems to be related to the Z axis, calibration between prints doesn't't seems to help. Is there something I'm missing? Thanks in advance!
  19. Hi all I run a 3d print cluster at a Scottish art & design school. Because of the number of users we support (over 1000) I'm looking at a solution to attribute each print job to an authenticated user. With UM3s and S5s this is simple - Cura Connect API reports the owner of each print. I'm trying to find a way to do the same on our UM2s - each one has a Pi running Octoprint. It works great, but the only user that is reported is the generic Octoprint. I"m really hoping to glean logged-in user info from the client machine (WIndows and/or Mac). I'm not much of a programmer, but hoping someone can point me in the right direction. All best wishes Ali Napier
  20. Hi, I have Cura 4.0, why I can't see in preview the simulation bar? The orizontal bar. Moreover I can't select (no present the drop down list) something different respect "color scheme" Thanks, Andrea
  21. Guten Tag Zusammen, wir besitzen seit ca. einem Jahr einen Ultimaker 3. In den letzten zwei Nächten liefen jeweils Drucke mit einer Druckdauer von ca. 20 Stunden. Der erste Druck wurde in einer guten Qualität gedruckt und lief tadellos durch. Als ich allerdings heute morgen ins Büro kam, habe ich gesehen, dass der zweite Druck einen "Schönheitsfehler" aufweist. Wie im Anhang zusehen, wurde eine Schicht nicht gedruckt. Die anderen Bereiche auf dieser Höhe wurden allerdings gedruckt. Leider kann ich mir diesen "Fehler" nicht erklären. Wir drucken ABS der Fa. Innofil3D und hatten bissher nie Probleme. Vielen Dank im vorraus für eure Hilfe. Pascal
  22. I've been printing for a while with a Creality CR-10S with Colorfabb black PETG economy and all was good. Until today, where on a large, flat print (30x10cm - a small drawer) I can't manage to get a smooth first (or second) layer no matter how hard I try. I tried so far: calibrating the extruder setting different temperatures (range 230-240 suggested by the manufacture is 235-250) slowing down the print (I usually print skin at 80mm/s, I tried this one down to 40mm/s) installing a brand new nozzle levelling the bed The print starts fine but then, randomly, some bands that look like under extrusion appear: Here's a second example of the first layer - I've ripped it off the plate but as you can see the first 50% of it was fine. The problem appeared later in the process. The extruder "clicks", the filament stalls and it's clear that the nozzle is not extruding plastic fast enough. What can it be? All other prints are fine, but I have to say this is the only one that has such a large horizontal surface. What can it be?
  23. Hi Is there a way to tell Cura to put Tree Support in one place only and not on the whole of the model?
  24. Hallo zusammen, ich bin leider total verzweifelt und finde keine Lösung.... kurz zu meinem Problem. Nachdem ich Cura starte, friert es innerhalb von 10-20 sek sofort ein. Danach ist es nicht mehr möglich das Programm zu beenden oder weiter zu arbeiten. Nur der Task Manager hilft hier. Ich habe bereits ältere Versionen von Cura ausprobiert, selbes Verhalten. (von der Originalen Website heruntergeladen) Ich finde dazu einfach keine Lösung... Nun zu meinem System: Betriebsystemname Microsoft Windows 10 Pro Version 10.0.17763 Build 17763 Systemtyp x64-basierter PC RAM: 16GB Festplatte: M.2 SSD Samsung + SSD Samsung Pro (beide schon probiert) Grafikkarte: GeForce RTX2080 Prozessor: Intel I7-9700k Netzteil: Bequit Pure Power 11 600W HW und Software ist aktuell, BIOS etc ist geupdatet. Geforce Experience wurde deinstalliert. Grafikkarten Treiber für im abgesicherten Modus deinstalliert und neu installiert. Keine Besserung. Noch jemand eine Idee 🙂 ? Ich danke euch, Viele Grüße Christian
  25. Bonjour, J'ai récemment reçu une ultimaker 2 pour faire du prototypage. Celle-ci a déjà pas mal vécu et, après nettoyage et graissage des axes, j'ai procédé aux réglages pour passer à l'impression. J'ai donc calibré le plateau (plusieurs fois), fait la méthode atomique pour nettoyer la buse, nettoyé le plateau et fais des essais. Les petites pièces (environ 5 cm de diamètre) s'impriment correctement mais, suite au passage à l'impression d'un plateau de 70 mm de diamètre, la première couche d'accroche se relève comme si la chaleur et l'adhésion "tendent" les rebords. J'ai essayé plusieurs réglages de vitesse (je fais la première couche à 80%), de températures d'extrusion (je fais à 200°c) et de lit (je le met à 60°c) mais malgré cela, le bord inérieur au fond à droit je relève toujours petit à petit dès le cinquième tour. En essayant de positionner la pièce ailleurs sur le lit; même résultat. Le filament PLA semble assez agé mais présente une bonne impression sur de petites pièces. Il s'agit quand même de 3mm de diamètre mais je n'ai pas de problème avec le feeder dès 200°c à l'extrusion. Est-ce que je fais quelque chose de faux ou faut-il changer de filament? J'ai entendu dire qu'un filament ancien aura absorbé de l'humidité et qu'il serait intéressant de le régénérer au four (40°c pdt 3h)... Merci à ceux qui prendront le temps de me conseiller 😉
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