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  1. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips:
  2. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train,
  3. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps o
  4. Ok so I was doing a bunch of work to my printer last weekend including an E3D V6 hot end upgrade. The printer is an ender 3 pro that has an SKR mini v2 board, octoprint, enclosure, and more printing with makerbot ABS. After every change I would always test print a standing tower as pictured below. Once I installed the e3d v6 hot end my prints started looking extremely over-extruded and or too high temperature. I am using the exact same gcode as the previous towers (except for the short once pictured where I tried changing setting to fix the issue). The towers on the left of the picture are bef
  5. Bonjour à toutes et à tous, J'aimerai trouver une solution à mon problème de gaspillage de bobine. Ce que je veux dire par là, c'est que quand on arrive sur la fin, il est impossible de pousser une bobine à la suite pendant l'impression. Du coup, et peut-être que quelqu'un a déjà posé la question ici, existe-t-il un moyen de "souder" deux bouts de filaments ensemble pour utiliser jusqu'au dernier centimètre ? Voici une illustration. Donc, l'idée serai de placer Les deux bout dans le papier collant (qui serait en réalité un tube en métal) et ainsi les souder grâce à la chaleur, tout en conse
  6. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  7. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like t
  8. Hi All, Just looking for some guidance from anyone on the following. I have a UMO with the + upgrade fitted. The LCD display has the typical dead spot making it unusable I have a UM2 PCB and display which i was going to use on a UM2 build but now want to swap in with the old UMO PCB and display Anyone have experience of this situation that help me (save me from bricking the new pcb) Thanks in advance Mark
  9. Best to start with - I am not a programmer. Am wondering if it is possible in a future upgrade or as a Plugin, have a method to overlay a graphic or photo of our print bed so we can identify areas of our print bed that have damage. My print bed has a few damaged spots - PEI film has broken off or there are large air bubbles under the PEI film that cause local extrusion fails but the rest of the bed is usable. Most of my prints can fit on the print bed with proper placement and I want to avoid those bad spots. If there is an easier way to identify them automatically on the print bed,
  10. I have changed the support for the filament rol. Wooden frame with spindels under the printer. PVA compartiment is "closed" On top a cardboard box. The front closed with a plastic hanging door. This works very well!
  11. Hi, I’m just wondering if Cura will ever come to IOS. I recently switched to an iPad to do my daily stuff, and I can even 3D model on it, but I’ve never been able to find a replacement for Cura, or in fact any IOS or online based slicer. It’s a petty problem, but I find it annoying to do all my work on my iPad, only to have to lug out the laptop, see if it’s charged, wait for Cura to start, then use it for 2 minutes and put it away. I know it would require extensive rewriting, but what if you just did an online version on servers you may already have? Heck, I would even pay for that. I just re
  12. Hello there, There were topics about the 0.6 print core CC and a lot of talk about how to use it with U3 (incompatible feeder). BUT, everybody just repeating the feeder issue and seems nobody tried it, at least I don't find any conversation about it. So I have an U3E, I replaced the feeders to Bondtech, which works fine. Now I have a CC print core, trying to play with the XSTRAND PA6 material. I have made the necessary modifications in the code for the Bondtech feeders, according to this: https://support.bondtech.se/Guide/01.+DDG+For+Ultimaker+2++and+3/16?lang=en And
  13. Hi everyone, i notice that in cura whenever i print large/heavy objects speeds up movements in non-printing status, so if the nozzle has to go from one corner to the other it goes somehow way to fast even though my printing speed is at default 60mm/s, this makes the printer miss steps once the object is getting heavier since there is more inertia and also i have a glass bed so it's worst, i have no issue with small lightweight prints, any help would be appreciated since my print failed twice, it got a layer shift half the way through twice in the same spot and its a 29 hour print so very frust
  14. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan contr
  15. Update 5/5/2020 All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725 Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assemb
  16. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
  17. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between th
  18. So I've been thinking of upgrading my UMO+ cooling fan setup. My current machine is unmodified and only blows air from one direction, leaving the other side with something to be desired. I have what I feel to be a solid solution to this problem that doesn't have to do with modelling and printing a complex, melt-prone duct. I've been browsing Amazon and found these centrifugal PC fans that allow me to mount them in a very convenient way. I'll link them here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YH79Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2QQQKMKGVNA5E&th=1 I plan to use two
  19. I print with an enclosure and with pc so it gets a hot build chamber which has promoted my slider block to fatigue, letting loose my X and Y rods. After a second set of failed slider blocks I figured an effective, very easy solution. From the internal boss that holds the spring, I drilled out the internal hole with a 1/16” drill. Then used a very small sheet metal type screw. The head is the mount for a small O ring to suspend the x/y rod! Ensure the screw head does not protrude out too far which could cause interference with machine operation. i
  20. guys I have been looking for the gcode required to run 2 extruders simultaneously however not printing the same object. to clarify i am not looking for a slicer that would do it for me (though that would be nice) i am simply looking for a gcode that would enable me to independently control both stepper motors of both extruders. something that would resemble: E0 xx.xx, E1 xx.xx
  21. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düse
  22. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three in
  23. As a personal project, I would like to connect to my Ultimaker 2 through the USB-B port, get access to the variable that estimates remaining time as calculated by the Ultimaker 2 (the same variable that displays on the LCD screen), and send this data to either another device or another program. Evidently, I have much to learn about software, so I do not expect a full solution. I would really appreciate any kind of advice on how to begin thinking about this problem, even if it's what I can start Googling to learn more - I see that all the Cura/Ultimaker code is up on Github, but I d
  24. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
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