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  1. I recently purchased an Ultimaker S3 and so far have been blown away with the quality of the prints. Thus far I have only used the provided glass heating bed for all my prints and as a result my bottom layer is always very shiny and smooth. I am now trying to get a more matte and textured look on my first layer. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions or 3rd party heat beds that I can use to get this effect. I was told that by putting some blue painters tape on the heat bed I could possibly get this to work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
  2. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips:
  3. Hi all, I need some help with a UM2E+ with Tinkerware and Bondetch DDG for Octoprint. What settings go into the individual bounding box ? Or does anyone have a working profile for the Ultimaker ? The Problem is : The Problem exists at the start and that is : All axes move up X Y moves to the front left Z axis moves to the top Material is extruded but exactly on the clamp at the front and not on the bed. Now the actual printing starts. Whats the Problem? THX for Help! stay healthy !
  4. Here are a few of the projects I've worked on using the Ultimaker 2+ There are 3 select fire blasters, and the pump blaster is a pistol grip conversion. The OLED mount with rail on the back are printed The battery cover in the front grip is a printed part along with some internal pieces Stock extension and top rail are printed Masterkey is printed Stock extension and handle fill with knobs are printed Pump grip and main grip along with trigger are printed
  5. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train,
  6. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
  7. I recently built a new printer and hate the idea of my old UMO+ just sitting around or turning to waste. Is it possible to repurpose the ATMEGA 2560 based controller for something like a low powered laser cutter? Will the firmware for an ATMEGA 2560+ RAMPS 1.4 also work for the UMO+ controller?
  8. Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe t
  9. Hallo, ich hätte mal eine etwas verückte aber dennoch interesante Frage, Drucker S5 ich habe einen alten 0,25Core, so meine Idee wäre daraus eine sag ich mal 2mm Düse zu machen. in Cura würde ich alles auf die 2mm Düsenbreite eingeben und auch die schichtdicke und alles so anpassen, das es eben auf die größe passt. Das würde ja Theoretisch gehen oder? Praxis ist dann wieder etwas anderes. 😄 Hat sowas schon mal jemand gemacht
  10. Hello everyone, I have recently started to use Octoprint on my ultimaker 2+ and I really love it. I have also like a lot the timelapse that is possible to create with the Octolapse plugin specially yhe famous one without head movement! Unfortunately I haven't found anyone sharing setting for the Ultimaker 2+ (open firmware) I was wondering if anyone had experience yet! Many thanks in advance! Emaunuele
  11. Hallo, Habe vor kurzem dem den ganzen Druckkopf ersetzz. Jetzt zeig er mir diese Nachricht an. Kern 1: Solex Hardcore 0.4 Kern 2: Solex Hardcore 0.4 Danke schon mal
  12. So I'm looking into getting the mmu for my printer, so I decided to go ahead and get the profile set up. Here's where my problem starts. So basically I just copied the original profile in the definitions folder, but I just added extruders, that is literally the only different I made, besides just a few name changes( i tried it with the original stuff and it didn't work either). Keep in mind I already set up more extruder profiles. Whenever I try to boot up cura it'll say that the files are corrupt. I've gone through multiple forums and cant find anything. Here are the files, is there anything
  13. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps o
  14. I have a ultimaker from before 2017 meaning that i have 5 motor drivers. I have the mark 2 kit installed meaning that i have used all 5 motor drivers. If I wanted to add another motor for another extruder, how would i go about that? Thanks
  15. I never thought i would be saying this but im having underextusion issues on my um2 with a bondtech qr extruder. I think its a problem with the firmware though. I prefer tinker firmware so i am using that instead of the bondtech firmware. I think its a problem with the esteps value. Ive tried "printing" a gcode file with the Esteps command and also pronterface but both don't seem to work. Is there a way to directly check if the esteps value was uploaded and saved? Or is there way i can modify tinker firmware and change the esteps value and the loading speed? Or am i doing something completely
  16. Is there a benefit to printing more abrasive materials than the standard materials? What extruders do people like? I see lots of discussions on Bondtech. I am a bit concerned that printing will be more complicated with the necessary speed changes in my printer. Is there any benefit to using a CC ruby printcore?
  17. Can anyone with experience in using octoprint on the UM2 lead me to a good source for a tutorial on how to install octoprint? Many resources out there are kinda old. Any help is appreciated. Also If you have installed octoprint, could you tell me what hardware you needed(especially the wifi dongle). I have a raspberry pi 4b 4gb ram model. Thanks!
  18. Hi Which dual extrusion mod for the UM2+ would you recommend? The Mark2 or the DXU, or something else, and why would you recommend that particular one? Thanks!
  19. I have a UM2 and I want to buy another Bondtech Qr feeder. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bondtech-qr-extruder/sk/M4KZR03V Will this one work? Its not part of the Ultimaker 2 upgrade kit, so I wasn't sure if it would fit. It doesn't include the 3d printed parts so I can just 3d print those. I can also just buy the nuts and bolts but can I just use the same stepper motor wiring I use for my current extruder?
  20. I recently got a new bondtech feeder and changed the heater(25w) and sensor on my um2 to the ones for the um2+(35w). How do I modify my firmware to match these modifications.
  21. Hallo, Was soll ich jetzt am besten machen. Material: PETG Extruder 1
  22. Update 5/5/2020 All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725 Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assemb
  23. Ok so I was doing a bunch of work to my printer last weekend including an E3D V6 hot end upgrade. The printer is an ender 3 pro that has an SKR mini v2 board, octoprint, enclosure, and more printing with makerbot ABS. After every change I would always test print a standing tower as pictured below. Once I installed the e3d v6 hot end my prints started looking extremely over-extruded and or too high temperature. I am using the exact same gcode as the previous towers (except for the short once pictured where I tried changing setting to fix the issue). The towers on the left of the picture are bef
  24. Bonjour à toutes et à tous, J'aimerai trouver une solution à mon problème de gaspillage de bobine. Ce que je veux dire par là, c'est que quand on arrive sur la fin, il est impossible de pousser une bobine à la suite pendant l'impression. Du coup, et peut-être que quelqu'un a déjà posé la question ici, existe-t-il un moyen de "souder" deux bouts de filaments ensemble pour utiliser jusqu'au dernier centimètre ? Voici une illustration. Donc, l'idée serai de placer Les deux bout dans le papier collant (qui serait en réalité un tube en métal) et ainsi les souder grâce à la chaleur, tout en conse
  25. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
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