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Found 117 results

  1. GolaxR6

    Bondtech QR 3.0 Universal

    Hallo, hat jemand den Bondtech QR 3.0 Universal Feeder (Link zum Shop) am Ultimaker 2 im Einsatz? Mit 142€ ist er sehr teuer, aber ist er auch das Geld wert? Da der Motor komplett geliefert wird, past dieser Motor mit seinen E-steps setting: 490 steps/mm ohne Änderungen zum UM2? Denke ob normal oder wie meiner Extended spielt keine Rolle. Über zeitnahe Info´s oder Meinungen dazu würde ich mich freuen, bevor ich ihn bestelle. Gruss Harry
  2. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  3. Hi all, This is my first time posting here so if there is anything I don't do correctly please let me know. Thanks! So I am working on adding a DIY heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. I am going the route of basically recreating the HBK on my own. By this I mean I got the aluminum build platform and UM2 style heatbed. The heatbed I got stated it had a 100k thermistor built in. My current design consists of the heatbed powered directly from a 24v power supply which is switched via a Solid State DC relay by the Ultimaker board. I have the relay hooked up to the "Heatbed" screw terminals on the ultimaker board. The thermistor wires are hooked into Temp3 screw terminals. I already soldered in the 4.7k resistor into the R4 position on the board. I tried updating the firmware via the Ultimaker firmware builder but was unsure what selection to choose for my thermistor (from the dropdown menu). I am running into issues with the board not recognizing the thermistor which could be a product of this. The LCD reads 100/0 for the bed and when I try to set a temp for it, it immediately clears it back to 0. I have the board currently detached from the rest of the printer (besides the arduino), and couldn't imagine this would cause any problems, but figured it was worth mentioning. So my question is, what selection should work for the 100k thermistor and 4.7k resistor in the ultimaker firmware builder? Or am I better off using something else to do so. I picked one of the 100k thermistor options from the dropdown, but if I did pick correctly where should I look next as the cause of these problems. Thank you all!!
  4. I recently added a 10-Watt laser to my UM2E+ printer. I also have a UM3E printer, which I used to print parts to do this. I have carefully enclosed the printer, ventilated it to outside, added OD3+ door and window for safety, coupled with wearing OD3+ goggles. I've attached a photo of the setup. It functions re asonably well, using both Inkscape and T2Laser software packages. What I would very much appreciate help with now has to do with the printer firmware. I see various comments about firmware mods for related purposes in the community, but I have no experience at all with the software packages mentioned. The particular items that would be most valuable are, first of all, a disabling of the firmware command causing the printer to home the head after each print job. That is no longer possible with the laser attached, since the laser mount would hit the wall just before it gets to the home position. What I do now is simply switch off the printer when it starts to head home. Other items would include the automatic "kickstart" for the fans, I'm using the fan control to provide the control of the laser power. The extra "flashes" when it goes up from zero are not desired. What would perhaps be most useful of all, though, would be the ability to see and control the X, Y, and Z values from the menu and to set the the X, Y, and Z limits that now exist because of the presence of the laser. I will be very interested in any comments or suggestions as to how I should proceed.
  5. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot 😃
  6. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  7. I own two Ultimaker 2+ and have created a laser attachment for the print head and a control board plus scripts to expose PCBs with the Ultimaker. It's a small UM firmware mod (on basis of the tinker firmware) that give a "sync" signal on one of the extension ports of the Ultimaker mainboard and a Arduino based controller (Arduino Pro Micro, the quite small thingy) that receives the pixels via USB/serial connection (for example from a Raspberry Pi that's running OctoPrint in parallel) and "streams" them to the laser driver upon receiving the sync signal from the UM. Essentially the print head is moving with constant speed left-to-right and the laser is switched by the controller independently matching that speed. So the core idea is to use the mechanics of the Ultimaker 2, but aside of the sync signal not do any larger mods to it. Which even makes it a universal solution for any precise mechanic like that. I had done one try to get the pixel streaming into the firmware, but there is a conflict between the timer interrupts for motor control and the pixel streaming coming up. Possibly doable to untangle that, but that felt like a painful road so I decided for that external controller, simplifying the thing enormously. With that solution I can achieve results down to 3-4mil of resolution which is much better than what I could achieve with the regular film printing & exposure methods or toner transfer. See attached photos (thanks to Henner Zeller the creator of the LDgraphy laser exposure device for the excellent test pattern, https://github.com/hzeller/ldgraphy). Video of the exposure process: That for the background, now to the question that I have. Currently the creation of the G-Code for the printer and the "bitstream" file are plain Python scripts I have to call, transfer the files to the OctoPi, run my "bit streamer" and start OctoPi with the G-Code file. Pretty manual process. Now I would like to integrate all this into a OctoPrint plug-in to use OctoPi as a central UI. That would be much more transparent and comfortable and could also provide the calibration tools to adjust PCB position and focus height in a few clicks. Would anyone be interested to join in to develop and test this? P.S. the holder of the laser head attachment bases on the Mark 2 dual head magnetic plate, so it's easily attachable and removable.
  8. Hello everyone, I have recently started to use Octoprint on my ultimaker 2+ and I really love it. I have also like a lot the timelapse that is possible to create with the Octolapse plugin specially yhe famous one without head movement! Unfortunately I haven't found anyone sharing setting for the Ultimaker 2+ (open firmware) I was wondering if anyone had experience yet! Many thanks in advance! Emaunuele
  9. dennispo

    Pokemon GOOOOO!

  10. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps of heater 2 changes - Cleaning print menu Temperatur 2 is removed but material flow 1 and 2 are still available - Material change for second nozzle changed, now it heat's hotend 1 with the temperature of the material 2 - Changing the function of advanced maintence At first step i changed the function of heatup of the second nozzle. Changing this temp changes the temp of the first heater. - Changing the function move material 2 in advanced maintence If it's selected it changes the temp of hotend 1 with the temp of material 2 and when the temp ist arrived I can move the material 2 (E2) - Build a Cura 3.3.1 printer configuration (I modified the config of Link) What are the next steps? - Finishing the cleaning of advanced maintence (remove heatup secondary nozzle, it's a little big trickier as I thought) - Check if it's possible to deactivate the error for the missing Tempsensor, if not a potentiometer should work great 🙂 - Build and mod the printer, make test's and show the finished build here (parts are ordered and I'm waiting) 😞 - Show the prints here and on my homepage - Make a documentation of the build (mod), will publish the documentation here @ SeoGeo_de - Publish the Marlin code on Github Needed parts: - Change filament size to 1.75 mm - 2 new extruder requiered with 1.75 mm support - 1 new Steppermotor for E2 - Cyclops V2 printhead and a few small parts At last known issues / specification - GCODE has to be Marlincode, with Ultimaker code it don't work (for me no problem because I use octoprint) - I can't check in Marlin if the GCODE sent temp is the print temp or the standby temp, so I have to set for the standbytemp the printing temp of the other material. Example: Extruder 1 PLA Extruder 2 ABS Print temp 200°C 240°C Standbay temp 240°C 200°C If somebody know how I can detect if the send temp is printtemp or standbytemp, this step can be ignored - Change the filament size to 1.75 mm (I didn't found an Cyclops with 2.85 mm) If somebody have questions or can help me with my issues, please answer here or write me a pm. Sorry for my english I hope all can understand what i have wrote. Bye Daniel
  11. Hello, i'd like to upgrade this t Umo+ single extruder to dual by adding parts , not changing the main extruder head itself .so any designs and information for this ?
  12. I wish the mouse view controls worked like FreeCAD. The right click for rotation is very awkward to use. In FreeCAD the view controls are: SHIFT + Mouse Move (no button click) to pan view ALT + Mouse Move (no button click) to rotate view It seems very intuitive to just hold either the CTRL or ALT key and move the mouse to pan and rotate the camera view. On Windows 10 without a mouse, Shift+Click pans and Right+Click rotates. The CTRL+Click does nothing. A weird mix of mouse and touchpad control.
  13. L’UM3 a hérité de bon nombre d’organes « mécaniques » de sa prédécesseure, l’UM2. Mais pour gagner son sticker « 3 », elle a subi quelques évolutions notables comme un nouveau design de tête et de buses adaptées à la double extrusion ainsi qu’un nouveau plateau plus rigide. De son côté, l’UM2+ a hérité du feeder de l’UM3 mais également du bloc Olsson, élevé au rang de standard. Conclusion, les UMs partagent énormément de pièces… Si je devais acheter une UM2+, je rongerai mon frein en me disant : « mais pourquoi continue-t-on à trainer ce bout d’aluminium bien trop plat en guise de plateau alors que celui de l’UM3 semble si prometteur, ou à défaut, moins sensible aux vibrations ? ». Question : peut-on monter le plateau de l’UM3 sur une UM2/UM2+ ? Etudions la question. Les différences majeures Elles sont au nombre de trois : 1. Les câbles qui relient le plateau à la carte électronique passent par la gauche sur l’UM2 et par la droite sur l’UM3. 2. La vis de réglage de fin de course du plateau est située sur la gauche pour un UM3 et sur la droite sur une UM2. 3. Le « cache roulements linéaires » est différent sur les UM2 et les UM3. Pour tout le reste, les pièces sont communes ou peuvent se monter sans problème : le lit chauffant de l’UM2 se monte sans modification sur le plateau de l’UM3, les vis de réglage sont identiques. Alors pourquoi se priver, d’autant que le plateau de l’UM3 vaut une cinquantaine d’€uro… hein ? En image, les adaptations nécessaires :
  14. Hi All; I got an UM2 printing PEEK well enough to complete my Masters research project. I received great help and advice on these forums and hopefully posting the results here helps the community. Here's a link to the system development: https://drive.google.com/a/tcd.ie/file/d/0B5czN7u52TZnZEhUN0x4NWFtams/view and here's a link to the whole masters: https://drive.google.com/a/tcd.ie/file/d/0B5czN7u52TZnWE1vRlBPSFEwWGM/view Thanks to everyone who gave me help and advice here. I also helped set up a Rapid Prototyping lab with 5 UM2s during my final year for students to use freely; was a great success, good little printers! Mike
  15. Hello, anyone have any experience with paste extruders & bio printing ?♥
  16. QuickOK

    HIPS: Easy profile configuration

    Material/Filament: MatterHackers 1kg 3.00mm HIPS (White) In CURA "Duplicate" the Generic ABS profile, but change print temp to 225C and speed (start at) 30mm/s. So far working well and no clogs, though this is my first print using it. I'd change Brand and Material, but unfortunately CURA doesn't seem to keep the settings. MODS or anyone else know if this is a bug? Good luck.
  17. I've had an issue with Cura freezing for a while. It used to happen every once in awhile when changing print settings. I disabled auto-slice and that fixed the issue for awhile. Now, recently, I've started trying to use Cura to slice for my custom FDM printer, but the issues is back. Now Cura freezes any time I attempt to make setting changes to the printer profile in 'Manage Printers'. This is becoming incredibly frustrating because it's preventing me from using Cura as a slicer for my new printer. I bit ago I read that there is a bug in the grid.shader file that can cause this issue, and someone suggested replacing that file with a different one from GitHub. Others (having fairly similar problems) said this worked for them, but I was not able to replace the file (something about not having permission from the owner to make changes). Is anyone else having this issue? Can anyone help me find a way to resolve the problem? Thanks!
  18. darkdvd

    Flow Sensor (pour UM2/UM2+) MAJ

    Je pose ça là...
  19. Awesome! E3D tool change movement system with magnet. See how fast it prints with a lightweight extruder... looks like it was inspired by the Mark2 upgrade, just a speculation. They will be showing this stuff at MRRF that starts tomorrow. More info: https://3dprint.com/207521/e3d-tool-changing-3d-printer/
  20. I own the Ultimaker Original HBK, however, I am facing a couple of difficulties with it, which I am hoping perhaps someone could help with? The first is that the thermoster readings are way off on both the Heatbed and the Extruder heat. Even at rest the best I can get is 40 degrees for the HB and 59 degrees for the extruder. For both of the readings; I have tried the Ultimaker Firmware builder and a Marlin build with a new board and Arduino Mega 2560 and all combinations of the thermostats and thermoster, and unfortunately the 59 degree reading on the hotend came through setting the “10K (not recommended for hotend) thermoster!” In addition to that problem, comes the second one. The HB is heating up nicely! So is the Hotend, however, at the business end of the LCD (I am now using a new Smart controller as I initially thought there might have been an issue with the LCD) the temperature goes backwards:- 59, 57, 53, 49, 33 etc, you get the picture, until it alarms out at a MIN TEMP ERROR! I’ve looked at reversing the wires, however this hasn’t helped. I at a loss, please can you help? Kindly asking for some kind of advice
  21. Hi all, The Goal of this topic is to bring people together who wish to print HT filaments or are printing them already, so that knowledge can be shared and more people are able to do this, I came across these HT filaments four months ago, and wanted to print these and to what i saw that there was very little data available for this, and hence i decided to research and develop the modifications myself to enable me to test these materials, on my journey i was helped by quite a few people, and i would like to name them and hope they will join this forum to help others as well, so they can help more people print these on their UM successfully their names are as follows :- "George Roberts" (the gr5 store one of the best persons i have come across and super helpful technically he connected me to tinker and helped with the firmware ) "TinkerGnome" (how can you leave this guy out of anything to do with UM all the programming hacks were his, he is the Mr Genius of UM Community) "Carl Beck" (3dsolex best nozzle maker and dear friend couldn't print without his nozzles) "Martin Bondeus" (bondtech, you cant really print these filaments beautifully and with precision without this guys feeders) "Matt" (3dxtech cause if you wanna print, you need the filaments ofcourse, and quite a helpful guy) (I also must thank my family and god they are my silent support always) TEMPERATURES Material Nozzle Bed Ultem 9085 360C 150C Ultem 1010 370C 160C PSU 370C 160C PPSU 380C 160C PEEK 400C 160C Air temperature is around 60-65C.
  22. Having recently had our printer run out of filament I was wondering if there was a way to easily integrate a filament monitor? It would also reduce our wastage with small amounts of filament left on reels. I know solutions have been found for the UM2 etc but I cant find anything for the new printers? A simple solutions would just be a micro switch that the filament is pressed against before it enters the feeder, when there is no filament the switch opens or closes and activates an actuator to hit the pause button. This is slightly messy however, is there any way of feeding this to a pin on the board? Thanks in advance.
  23. This is for the users that want to get their Zebra Stripes removed (almost completely) What does it do It fixes the Zebra stripes from the stepper motors that UMO, UM2 and UM3 use (as it today 6 August 2017) Left is WITH the TL-Smooth, Right is WITHOUT. Printed on the same day, same spool, same gcode Before and After installing them. The print test used is the Curve Test by @Valcrow https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print The issue is documented on this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes On that post you will find that one way to fix it is by doing soldering on the SMD board, a delicate endeavor not for everyone. So a month ago googling I found this TL-Smooth chips that are being sold on a aliexpress shop, bough them and test them. So far it's been a week since I installed them and I don't see any issue after using the printer that has them for the whole week. Does that mean that is safe? No. Any mod ofc might have side effects, and since isn't a UM product, who knows. But IMHO it works nice and doesn't have side effects (that I can see so far). If I find any I'll update this post ofc. The guy that found that this kind if circuits fixes the Decay-something that makes the problem, was this guy http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html The china guys sell it without mention the guy that made all the hard work, but also he never did sell them or offer them, so is a middle ground grey area, where the users benefit from this knowhow. Ofc the little boards are around 8€ for 4 steppers, so it's quite cheap, and they send it quite nicely (except the cables that they sent me wrong like they show on their aliexpress page, so at least they warn about it). So... What you get when it arrives You get 4 plastic thingys, to put the chip in, they seem to compress with heat, but I didn't tested that since doesn't seem important (or is it?) First thing to do, is to check the wire cables. The seller warns about this, and it's important to do it right. That's why I made this simple video showing the process of rearranging the cables and, ofc, twisting the pairs to avoid electrical noise. How to install them Turn off the machine (doh!) Remove the Power Plug Now, without the power cable in. Turn ON and OFF the machine. This will discharge the capacitators, so there's no residual power on the Board. Turn the printer so you can access the board and remove the cover Now, one by one, unplug the motor from the board, and plug them on the TL-Smooth. To remove the cable, use your nails from the corners and push, don't pull the cables to avoid damaging them: Do it on all your steppers, close the cover, and arrange them so they don't disturb you. Warning I take zero responsibility if anyone gets his board damaged, or if their version doesn't work. I don't sell nor promote this stuff. I just found it, bought it and share my results. Important Warning Triple check the cables are right 'in' and they don't go out when pulling them (gently). If that happens you might have them wrong when you reinserted them. Update Last week found an important issue with torque with this stuff on. I need to debug it when I get time but basically if your printer is at the torque limit (for x/y/e) this will affect the prints. Specially the extruder since it's more sensitive to this. I'll test other TL-Smooth version but probably will just move to a Duet3D board and forget about um2 boards.
  24. Hi folks. I have a Prusa Mk3 knockoff (HICTOP) printer. I decided to add a second extruder. I modified Mendel source code, and got it working: I can heat and move two separate extruders. All is well there. I use Cura for slicing and printing. Before I added a second extruder, my printer worked well with Cura's "Prusa i3 Mk2" profile. Now, I'd like to be able to take advantage of my second extruder, but Cura doesn't see it. In printer settings there's dropdown with number of extruders, but it only shows (1) as an option. I tried adding some other printer with "Dual" in its name, and Cura connects to my printer fine, and shows Extruder 1 temp/target temp, but Extruder 2 info is simply blank. My question is - is this something I have to fix in firmware (like, info is not being sent to Cura), or is this a Cura issue? Any suggestions would be helpful.
  25. I want a design for mk8 bowden feeder holder for umo+
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