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Found 148 results

  1. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  2. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  3. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  4. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  5. Hi All, Just looking for some guidance from anyone on the following. I have a UMO with the + upgrade fitted. The LCD display has the typical dead spot making it unusable I have a UM2 PCB and display which i was going to use on a UM2 build but now want to swap in with the old UMO PCB and display Anyone have experience of this situation that help me (save me from bricking the new pcb) Thanks in advance Mark
  6. Best to start with - I am not a programmer. Am wondering if it is possible in a future upgrade or as a Plugin, have a method to overlay a graphic or photo of our print bed so we can identify areas of our print bed that have damage. My print bed has a few damaged spots - PEI film has broken off or there are large air bubbles under the PEI film that cause local extrusion fails but the rest of the bed is usable. Most of my prints can fit on the print bed with proper placement and I want to avoid those bad spots. If there is an easier way to identify them automatically on the print bed, would make object placement easier. I know that there is a grid that I can count squares but that gets tedious and cross eyed. I replaced the bed recently, printed with TPU and forgot to put down glue stick so I have a small broken area. Anyone wanting to tackle this and make a plugin or consider for an upgrade? Thank you
  7. I have changed the support for the filament rol. Wooden frame with spindels under the printer. PVA compartiment is "closed" On top a cardboard box. The front closed with a plastic hanging door. This works very well!
  8. Hi, I’m just wondering if Cura will ever come to IOS. I recently switched to an iPad to do my daily stuff, and I can even 3D model on it, but I’ve never been able to find a replacement for Cura, or in fact any IOS or online based slicer. It’s a petty problem, but I find it annoying to do all my work on my iPad, only to have to lug out the laptop, see if it’s charged, wait for Cura to start, then use it for 2 minutes and put it away. I know it would require extensive rewriting, but what if you just did an online version on servers you may already have? Heck, I would even pay for that. I just really want something equivalent to Cura (preferably actual Cura) to be available on an IOS device. Do you have any plans to do this ever, or is it just a lost cause?
  9. Hello there, There were topics about the 0.6 print core CC and a lot of talk about how to use it with U3 (incompatible feeder). BUT, everybody just repeating the feeder issue and seems nobody tried it, at least I don't find any conversation about it. So I have an U3E, I replaced the feeders to Bondtech, which works fine. Now I have a CC print core, trying to play with the XSTRAND PA6 material. I have made the necessary modifications in the code for the Bondtech feeders, according to this: https://support.bondtech.se/Guide/01.+DDG+For+Ultimaker+2++and+3/16?lang=en And it works juts fine with normal materials and print cores. I installed the CC core and modified the gcode for the it, according to this: http://gr5.org/cores/ The printer recognize the core, however before the actual printing starts, the printer shows a message that I have to override the setting, so it used as a 0.4 core. There is no option here, only click OK. I guess it is coming from Cura, because that does not recognize 0.6 CC core, so I have to set 0.4 print core. I made a custom profile for the CC core, with 'line width' 0.58mm and so on... (copied from the S3 settings for the 0.6 CC core) So I load the XSTRAND material press "OK" for all error messages. The print starts, the material is amazing, beautiful, the print goes well, until the core has to move to an "island" location. The oozing starts like hell. I have the same result as this guy (with Ultimaker 5S): Settings for the XSTRAND PA6 material (as suggested by the material manufacture in the post above): Retract 12 MM at a sped of 40 mm/s first layer height of 0.12 mm for 0.1 mm layers Adhesion solution: Glue Stick printing speed: 40 mm/s Print temp: 240°C Regular Fan Speed: 50% Build Plate Temp: 60°C Infill Speed: 50 mm/s Initial Layer speed 20 mm/s Minimum Speed 5 mm/s Minimum Layer Time: 3 s Build Plate Adhesion: skirt So here my first print: Anybody used CC print core with U3/E? Any experience? Any suggestions?
  10. Hi everyone, i notice that in cura whenever i print large/heavy objects speeds up movements in non-printing status, so if the nozzle has to go from one corner to the other it goes somehow way to fast even though my printing speed is at default 60mm/s, this makes the printer miss steps once the object is getting heavier since there is more inertia and also i have a glass bed so it's worst, i have no issue with small lightweight prints, any help would be appreciated since my print failed twice, it got a layer shift half the way through twice in the same spot and its a 29 hour print so very frustrating. @nallath Would be awesome as a feature that cura slows down non-printing status gradually over the printing time for the next update, what do you think?
  11. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan control options More accurate / smooth stepper motion Network connectivity More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features. Touchscreen support would be nice Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place. Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful. Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options. The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro. If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!
  12. Update 5/5/2020 All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725 Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assembly friendly but the design really rocks. So, for now just photos. Oh also UM3 Core version for um2 zgemark2, Gudo is testing it just now the first designs. It will only need 2 fans for the print cooling but each head will have his 5v fan. The fans are very easy to assemble or remove and every part is modular. The clip system uses a 'spring-magnet' system, that so far looks amazing but need's testing. Also the print precision will be really crucial on the clip system. Also Gudo moved the bed, by changing the screw points, this gives a 1cm area for the hotends to rest, so they don't need to rampup/rampdown while park/unpark. Also the magnet clip system allows for smooth removal to avoid any misstep lost or shift on movement forces. I'll share more when I know more I have printed a full version but my reseller doesn't have um2 3 aluminium parts in stock so I'm waiting for other source arrival to start assembling it. @Gudo will post more about this soon. Also since the files are on my dropbox, if anyone wants to beta test, PM me with your email so I give you read access. Edit. At the moment I can’t test this, I have all printed, but my agenda is getting fill of stuff to test and work.
  13. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty. **** I used two materials for testing, Extrudr TPU Soft and Ninjaflex, both 85A. I used the regular feeder from the UM2+ , combined with a pancake stepper motor (LDO-42STH25-1404MAC#190920) this stepper is less than half the weight of the normal stepper. I had to cut some length of the shaft to make it fit. The stepper has a different # steps per rotation and as it's impossible to change the steps setting for the S5 on one feeder it needs compensation in flow (200% flow = 100%) Obviously the result is a crazy top heavy setup, but if you just want to print an occasional gasket it should be fine, specially since you need to print materials this flexible very slow (15 mm/s) anyhow. On an Ultimaker2 the extra weight is enormous, on the S5 not so much as it's very heavy already anyhow. The nice thing is you can see into the feeder so during testing it's easy to spot when the feeder can't cope if you try to speed it up to much. If something goes wrong it's mainly during the first few layers, so watch them... otherwise you'll spend a few minutes again taking the feeder apart... To validate the basic setup I printed regular PLA on both converted machines, to make sure the setup (including changed steps/flow due to different motor) was correct. On the UM2 head the ninjaflex was pretty easy to get working, i managed to print with constant and reliable extrusion using a 0.4 nozzle. The materials prints best around (I tested with 0.15 layers) Flow : 110-115 % (with feeder tension set to lowest point) Temperature : 210 c Speed : 15 to 20 mm/s The easiest way to test temperature and flow is by printing simple cilinders, foir the S5 you can use the "tune" menu to play with values on the fly. Getting ninjaflex to work on the S5 proved to be more difficult than on the UM2, at the same settings using an 0.4 mm nozzle prints failed all the time, it seems the CORE, is much more of a challenge that a UM2 setup. I blame the longer filament path, and the metal tube of the core. Only when I changed to the 0.8 nozzle and the CC0.6 I was able to get reliable results. My main S5 tests are with the CC0.6, atm my best results are with the following settings; The S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates. Layer height 0,15 Initial layer height 0,25 Top/bottom pattern & Innitial layer pattern ; concentric (avoid lot's of small lines, head vibration) Innitial printing temperature/ innitial layer : 230c Printing teperature : 215c Skirt/Brim flow 140% (= realy 70%, due to the different stepper motor) Innitial layer flow 150% (= realy 75%, due to the different stepper motor) Flow 225% (= 2x the real flow, due to the different stepper motor) Print speed 15 mm/s Innitial layer speed, Skirt/Brim speed 10mm/s Cooling at 100%, start with 20% and let it rise over 10 layers) Turn off the flow sensor (in the settings menu) on the S5, as you're not using that feeder.. Conclusion, even if you eliminate the bowden, printing 85A flex on an Ultimaker S5 is still a bit of a challenge. The used feeder (UM2+UM3 model) and filament path are not ideal. But, usually if you make it past the first few layers, and have relatively simple prints that keep the flow going it's very well possible to print ninjaflex on the S5. I have not experimented a lot with it jet, but I also managed a simple test print using PLA for support on the 2th extruder. the hardware hack; The feeder plate mounts to 3 screws of the head, so you can leave one and the head will stay assembled during mounting. I made a little breakout plug for the left stepper motor on the back of the printer, so I can change between direct and bowden in just a few minutes. I just leave the black mounting plate on the head. In needed to make a hole in the bottom plate for the DIY extension cable. I isolated the plug with hot glue. some side notes; Cura can sometimes create fantastic vibrator g-codes, not nice with this heavy setup, so one thing you can do to prevent this is to change line fill to cylindrical fill, and check the layer preview. ninjaflex openRC wheel, printed on S5 extrudr TPU soft (85A just like ninjaflex) gasket, printed on S5 S5 stl's S5_FlexDirect.zip
  14. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  15. So I've been thinking of upgrading my UMO+ cooling fan setup. My current machine is unmodified and only blows air from one direction, leaving the other side with something to be desired. I have what I feel to be a solid solution to this problem that doesn't have to do with modelling and printing a complex, melt-prone duct. I've been browsing Amazon and found these centrifugal PC fans that allow me to mount them in a very convenient way. I'll link them here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YH79Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2QQQKMKGVNA5E&th=1 I plan to use two of them in my theoretical setup: Conveniently, they're available in both 12V and 24V variants. As I'm aware, the UMO+ fan output voltage is 24V. Here's my ultimate question: Should I wire 2 24V fans in parallel or 2 12V fans in series? Or should I even use these fans at all; What fans would be ideal for this application? I've read it's really easy to fry the board if done incorrectly, so I want to know how to not do that. Thanks 😃
  16. I print with an enclosure and with pc so it gets a hot build chamber which has promoted my slider block to fatigue, letting loose my X and Y rods. After a second set of failed slider blocks I figured an effective, very easy solution. From the internal boss that holds the spring, I drilled out the internal hole with a 1/16” drill. Then used a very small sheet metal type screw. The head is the mount for a small O ring to suspend the x/y rod! Ensure the screw head does not protrude out too far which could cause interference with machine operation. i hope this helps someone!
  17. guys I have been looking for the gcode required to run 2 extruders simultaneously however not printing the same object. to clarify i am not looking for a slicer that would do it for me (though that would be nice) i am simply looking for a gcode that would enable me to independently control both stepper motors of both extruders. something that would resemble: E0 xx.xx, E1 xx.xx
  18. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düsen und Heat-Blocks sind in Verwendung. Beide Düsen gehen bis 400°C und werden durch eine Wasserkühlung gekühlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So können Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfräse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilität wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Blöcke wurden neu konstruiert. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir immer vibrierte, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen waren im Nachhinein sichtbar und können sogar während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Einfach den Aufsatz für den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach außen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90°C heiß werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zusätzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erwärmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90°C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturlüfter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und kühlt die Druckobjekte auf Glasübergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping und Splitting mehr. veraltet (Peltier Kühlung fehlt) aktuell (mit Peltier Kühlung) 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0.005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualität kann man auch noch über die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 Düse auf Wasserkühlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  19. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  20. As a personal project, I would like to connect to my Ultimaker 2 through the USB-B port, get access to the variable that estimates remaining time as calculated by the Ultimaker 2 (the same variable that displays on the LCD screen), and send this data to either another device or another program. Evidently, I have much to learn about software, so I do not expect a full solution. I would really appreciate any kind of advice on how to begin thinking about this problem, even if it's what I can start Googling to learn more - I see that all the Cura/Ultimaker code is up on Github, but I don't really know where to start. Profuse thank-you's to whoever chooses to reply to this.
  21. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  22. I've rebuilt a 3D printer to work as a macro focus rail for photographing, and I'm testing Cura as a software to control the stepper motors. Everything works great, but I have a question. In the Monitor -> Printer control, where can I set the jog distances to be used? I was looking for some sort of ini of config file, but can't anything. The minimum of 0.1 is actually too much in my case as I need to be able to do steps down to 5 microns or less. :-P Are the settings adjustable without too much problems, or are they hard coded into the software?
  23. Hi all, The Goal of this topic is to bring people together who wish to print HT filaments or are printing them already, so that knowledge can be shared and more people are able to do this, I came across these HT filaments four months ago, and wanted to print these and to what i saw that there was very little data available for this, and hence i decided to research and develop the modifications myself to enable me to test these materials, on my journey i was helped by quite a few people, and i would like to name them and hope they will join this forum to help others as well, so they can help more people print these on their UM successfully their names are as follows :- "George Roberts" (the gr5 store one of the best persons i have come across and super helpful technically he connected me to tinker and helped with the firmware ) "TinkerGnome" (how can you leave this guy out of anything to do with UM all the programming hacks were his, he is the Mr Genius of UM Community) "Carl Beck" (3dsolex best nozzle maker and dear friend couldn't print without his nozzles) "Martin Bondeus" (bondtech, you cant really print these filaments beautifully and with precision without this guys feeders) "Matt" (3dxtech cause if you wanna print, you need the filaments ofcourse, and quite a helpful guy) (I also must thank my family and god they are my silent support always) TEMPERATURES Material Nozzle Bed Ultem 9085 360C 150C Ultem 1010 370C 160C PSU 370C 160C PPSU 380C 160C PEEK 400C 160C Air temperature is around 60-65C.
  24. I was able to successfully convert my UM2 to a UM2+ then a UM2+ Mark2 with magnetic docking second head. Now I have hacked in the UM3 print head !. cool now I have a Mark2 system with quick change UM3 print cores ! I totally destroyed the UM3 print head PCB lol. I had to remove all IC's and resistors form the board, then I "hot wired" the CORE connections to the main cable header lol. LED's do not currently work, but they will soon show the active extruder, only 1 color though. Capacitive Z sensor is non operational since I am using the Original UM2 electronics coupled with Mark2 firmware. I started off by going off the deep end buying the UM3 electronics etc. then I found out that all I needed to do was use everything I already had. at first I wanted the autoleveling, RGB core LED's etc. Anyway, this is very simple to do if you don't mind killing a UM3 print head 😉 and already have Mark2 operational 🙂 Here is a quick video showing the Mark2 Docking sequence adjusted to hit the nozzle shift lever bracket. Mark2 Print core swap Enoy, Dave
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