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Found 108 results

  1. Hi All; I got an UM2 printing PEEK well enough to complete my Masters research project. I received great help and advice on these forums and hopefully posting the results here helps the community. Here's a link to the system development: https://drive.google.com/a/tcd.ie/file/d/0B5czN7u52TZnZEhUN0x4NWFtams/view and here's a link to the whole masters: https://drive.google.com/a/tcd.ie/file/d/0B5czN7u52TZnWE1vRlBPSFEwWGM/view Thanks to everyone who gave me help and advice here. I also helped set up a Rapid Prototyping lab with 5 UM2s during my final year for students to use freely; was a great success, good little printers! Mike
  2. L’UM3 a hérité de bon nombre d’organes « mécaniques » de sa prédécesseure, l’UM2. Mais pour gagner son sticker « 3 », elle a subi quelques évolutions notables comme un nouveau design de tête et de buses adaptées à la double extrusion ainsi qu’un nouveau plateau plus rigide. De son côté, l’UM2+ a hérité du feeder de l’UM3 mais également du bloc Olsson, élevé au rang de standard. Conclusion, les UMs partagent énormément de pièces… Si je devais acheter une UM2+, je rongerai mon frein en me disant : « mais pourquoi continue-t-on à trainer ce bout d’aluminium bien trop plat en guise de plateau alors que celui de l’UM3 semble si prometteur, ou à défaut, moins sensible aux vibrations ? ». Question : peut-on monter le plateau de l’UM3 sur une UM2/UM2+ ? Etudions la question. Les différences majeures Elles sont au nombre de trois : 1. Les câbles qui relient le plateau à la carte électronique passent par la gauche sur l’UM2 et par la droite sur l’UM3. 2. La vis de réglage de fin de course du plateau est située sur la gauche pour un UM3 et sur la droite sur une UM2. 3. Le « cache roulements linéaires » est différent sur les UM2 et les UM3. Pour tout le reste, les pièces sont communes ou peuvent se monter sans problème : le lit chauffant de l’UM2 se monte sans modification sur le plateau de l’UM3, les vis de réglage sont identiques. Alors pourquoi se priver, d’autant que le plateau de l’UM3 vaut une cinquantaine d’€uro… hein ? En image, les adaptations nécessaires :
  3. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  4. I've had an issue with Cura freezing for a while. It used to happen every once in awhile when changing print settings. I disabled auto-slice and that fixed the issue for awhile. Now, recently, I've started trying to use Cura to slice for my custom FDM printer, but the issues is back. Now Cura freezes any time I attempt to make setting changes to the printer profile in 'Manage Printers'. This is becoming incredibly frustrating because it's preventing me from using Cura as a slicer for my new printer. I bit ago I read that there is a bug in the grid.shader file that can cause this issue, and someone suggested replacing that file with a different one from GitHub. Others (having fairly similar problems) said this worked for them, but I was not able to replace the file (something about not having permission from the owner to make changes). Is anyone else having this issue? Can anyone help me find a way to resolve the problem? Thanks!
  5. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  6. darkdvd

    Flow Sensor (pour UM2/UM2+) MAJ

    Je pose ça là...
  7. Awesome! E3D tool change movement system with magnet. See how fast it prints with a lightweight extruder... looks like it was inspired by the Mark2 upgrade, just a speculation. They will be showing this stuff at MRRF that starts tomorrow. More info: https://3dprint.com/207521/e3d-tool-changing-3d-printer/
  8. I own the Ultimaker Original HBK, however, I am facing a couple of difficulties with it, which I am hoping perhaps someone could help with? The first is that the thermoster readings are way off on both the Heatbed and the Extruder heat. Even at rest the best I can get is 40 degrees for the HB and 59 degrees for the extruder. For both of the readings; I have tried the Ultimaker Firmware builder and a Marlin build with a new board and Arduino Mega 2560 and all combinations of the thermostats and thermoster, and unfortunately the 59 degree reading on the hotend came through setting the “10K (not recommended for hotend) thermoster!” In addition to that problem, comes the second one. The HB is heating up nicely! So is the Hotend, however, at the business end of the LCD (I am now using a new Smart controller as I initially thought there might have been an issue with the LCD) the temperature goes backwards:- 59, 57, 53, 49, 33 etc, you get the picture, until it alarms out at a MIN TEMP ERROR! I’ve looked at reversing the wires, however this hasn’t helped. I at a loss, please can you help? Kindly asking for some kind of advice
  9. Hi all, The Goal of this topic is to bring people together who wish to print HT filaments or are printing them already, so that knowledge can be shared and more people are able to do this, I came across these HT filaments four months ago, and wanted to print these and to what i saw that there was very little data available for this, and hence i decided to research and develop the modifications myself to enable me to test these materials, on my journey i was helped by quite a few people, and i would like to name them and hope they will join this forum to help others as well, so they can help more people print these on their UM successfully their names are as follows :- "George Roberts" (the gr5 store one of the best persons i have come across and super helpful technically he connected me to tinker and helped with the firmware ) "TinkerGnome" (how can you leave this guy out of anything to do with UM all the programming hacks were his, he is the Mr Genius of UM Community) "Carl Beck" (3dsolex best nozzle maker and dear friend couldn't print without his nozzles) "Martin Bondeus" (bondtech, you cant really print these filaments beautifully and with precision without this guys feeders) "Matt" (3dxtech cause if you wanna print, you need the filaments ofcourse, and quite a helpful guy) (I also must thank my family and god they are my silent support always) TEMPERATURES Material Nozzle Bed Ultem 9085 360C 150C Ultem 1010 370C 160C PSU 370C 160C PPSU 380C 160C PEEK 400C 160C Air temperature is around 60-65C.
  10. Having recently had our printer run out of filament I was wondering if there was a way to easily integrate a filament monitor? It would also reduce our wastage with small amounts of filament left on reels. I know solutions have been found for the UM2 etc but I cant find anything for the new printers? A simple solutions would just be a micro switch that the filament is pressed against before it enters the feeder, when there is no filament the switch opens or closes and activates an actuator to hit the pause button. This is slightly messy however, is there any way of feeding this to a pin on the board? Thanks in advance.
  11. This is for the users that want to get their Zebra Stripes removed (almost completely) What does it do It fixes the Zebra stripes from the stepper motors that UMO, UM2 and UM3 use (as it today 6 August 2017) Left is WITH the TL-Smooth, Right is WITHOUT. Printed on the same day, same spool, same gcode Before and After installing them. The print test used is the Curve Test by @Valcrow https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print The issue is documented on this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes On that post you will find that one way to fix it is by doing soldering on the SMD board, a delicate endeavor not for everyone. So a month ago googling I found this TL-Smooth chips that are being sold on a aliexpress shop, bough them and test them. So far it's been a week since I installed them and I don't see any issue after using the printer that has them for the whole week. Does that mean that is safe? No. Any mod ofc might have side effects, and since isn't a UM product, who knows. But IMHO it works nice and doesn't have side effects (that I can see so far). If I find any I'll update this post ofc. The guy that found that this kind if circuits fixes the Decay-something that makes the problem, was this guy http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html The china guys sell it without mention the guy that made all the hard work, but also he never did sell them or offer them, so is a middle ground grey area, where the users benefit from this knowhow. Ofc the little boards are around 8€ for 4 steppers, so it's quite cheap, and they send it quite nicely (except the cables that they sent me wrong like they show on their aliexpress page, so at least they warn about it). So... What you get when it arrives You get 4 plastic thingys, to put the chip in, they seem to compress with heat, but I didn't tested that since doesn't seem important (or is it?) First thing to do, is to check the wire cables. The seller warns about this, and it's important to do it right. That's why I made this simple video showing the process of rearranging the cables and, ofc, twisting the pairs to avoid electrical noise. How to install them Turn off the machine (doh!) Remove the Power Plug Now, without the power cable in. Turn ON and OFF the machine. This will discharge the capacitators, so there's no residual power on the Board. Turn the printer so you can access the board and remove the cover Now, one by one, unplug the motor from the board, and plug them on the TL-Smooth. To remove the cable, use your nails from the corners and push, don't pull the cables to avoid damaging them: Do it on all your steppers, close the cover, and arrange them so they don't disturb you. Warning I take zero responsibility if anyone gets his board damaged, or if their version doesn't work. I don't sell nor promote this stuff. I just found it, bought it and share my results. Important Warning Triple check the cables are right 'in' and they don't go out when pulling them (gently). If that happens you might have them wrong when you reinserted them. Update Last week found an important issue with torque with this stuff on. I need to debug it when I get time but basically if your printer is at the torque limit (for x/y/e) this will affect the prints. Specially the extruder since it's more sensitive to this. I'll test other TL-Smooth version but probably will just move to a Duet3D board and forget about um2 boards.
  12. Hi folks. I have a Prusa Mk3 knockoff (HICTOP) printer. I decided to add a second extruder. I modified Mendel source code, and got it working: I can heat and move two separate extruders. All is well there. I use Cura for slicing and printing. Before I added a second extruder, my printer worked well with Cura's "Prusa i3 Mk2" profile. Now, I'd like to be able to take advantage of my second extruder, but Cura doesn't see it. In printer settings there's dropdown with number of extruders, but it only shows (1) as an option. I tried adding some other printer with "Dual" in its name, and Cura connects to my printer fine, and shows Extruder 1 temp/target temp, but Extruder 2 info is simply blank. My question is - is this something I have to fix in firmware (like, info is not being sent to Cura), or is this a Cura issue? Any suggestions would be helpful.
  13. I want a design for mk8 bowden feeder holder for umo+
  14. Hi I am possibly looking at printing with abrasive filament (Glow in the dark, Carbon Fiber etc.) in the future as was wondering what the best Print Core would be to ensure I do not damage my UM3. From my research it seems like the "UM3 HardCore Pro" would be the way to go with "UM3 Hardcore 5- Nozzle EVERLAST Ruby Sapphire Kit". Is this still the case or are there other better options available? Do I need to be concerned about this damaging my extruder in any way? Also, would using a 3rd party Print Core impact my guarantee on the printer in any way? Thanks
  15. Hello, is there any design design for mk8 feeder mount for umo+?
  16. Hi guys, currently I'm in a project to update my beloved UMO with a (chinese) UM2 head. Decided to go this cheaper way as it is just a proof of concept for a dual nozzle setup with some specialities... :-) Dont want to machine and play around on original parts in several iterations and destroy money... So here's the question: How tight should the PTFE part fit in the stainless steel part? A bit loose so it turns freely or tight so it cant....? Any hints appreciated... Thanks!
  17. I have bought an stepper motor and connected to E2 port of the board. I am using cura with the latest version and added 2nd extruder to a "customized printer" which is UM2. But 2nd motor didn't work even I choose the 2nd extruder for the part? I wont connect a nozzle, I want only the motor work. What can I do?
  18. Hi, Just got a UMO with a heated bed mod in it. I’m a complete newbie so please be gentle with your replies, however, I wanted to know whether it is possible to put a UM2 Motherboard into the UMO and if so what other adjustments I would need to make? Any advice however basic or complex welcome. Many thanks in advance.
  19. Hello, i can't find the aluminum alloy 6082 for umo+ heat bed base plate, so is there any replacment for that alloy ?
  20. i want a cad design and dimensions of the umo+ aluminum base plate and what is the type of the aluminium alloy used ?
  21. Hi guys, I have been running a hot end of my own design for a while now, but using an external power supply for my hot end fan, and happened to pick a print fan which has lived at the supplied 19v. I rev'd up my design to be smaller, lighter, stiffer, and much shorter as well. Now seems like a good time to clean up and integrate the electronics. I am pretty sure that my base electronics are 1.5.7, and I have added the official heated bed kit. I believe this gives me access to constant on 19v and 24v sources. What I am unclear on, is whether I have a 5v extruder fan connection that can be controlled via firmware (on when the hot end is above a set point). For the hot end fan, I see 3 potential options: Use the 5v lead if I have it. Could I use this to step the voltage up to 12v? DC Step up Piggyback, in parallel, on the 12v leads that power the control board fan and hope not to overload it with an additional ~0.1 amps Grab the always on 19v or 24v leads, and run a step down converter: DC Step down Any thoughts on this? For dual print fans: I will be running 12v 30mm fans (same as above @ ~0.1 amp). I can either wire them in parallel and hope they don't burn up. But I think using the step-down converter above on the normal fan output would be a better solution. My biggest question on that, is if wiring that converter inline with the fan output would cause issues in the PWM fan signal. Any help is appreciated!
  22. Externes Python Script für Simplify3D / Dual Hallo miteinander, Ich schreibe jetzt schon fast seit einem ¾ Jahr an einen Python Script für Simplify3D für das Dual drucken. Bin jetzt über Zufall drauf gestoßen das man das auch etwas Grafisch (GUI) aufbauen kann, somit bin ich jetzt der Meinung das jeder mit zurechtkommen sollte (wenn fragen sind, Bitte fragt), infolgedessen will ich es jetzt mit der der Gemeinschaft Teilen. Das Script macht folgendes (in Moment): Die „Temp Magic“ wie in Cura, das einzige „Problem/Einschränkung“ ist hier noch wenn die Düse nicht genug Zeit hat komplett abzukühlen hier wird dann schon zu früh geheizt. Wenn die Zeit gar nicht ausreicht, kann man auswählen ob gesenkt werden soll oder die Temperatur gehalten werden soll. Das abwischen am Turm mit Z-Senkung (Drucke mit Marins Dual Lösung mit Düsen Hub) Die Print Area Überwachung da hier die Firmware und Simplify3D versagt, durch den Hotend Offset (M218) geschuldet. Was braucht ihr? Ihr müsst euch Python 2 Installieren. Ich habe derzeit Version 2.7.13. (Hier geht es zum Download für Version 2.7.13) Und ihr braucht mein Dual Profil von S3D. Bzw. ist es nicht das ganze Profil nötig nur ein paar besondere Kennzeichnungen in Register Skripte. Kann also auch für die Mark2 Benutzer verwendet werden. (Wenn Interesse kann ich diese Punkte aufzählen damit ihr eure Script Umschreiben könnt) Ihr müsst drauf Achten das unten bei den Info´s Fensters kein Roter Text auftaucht, also keine Fehler vorhanden ist, den so kann es sein das der gcode unbrauchbar geworden ist. Hier mein FFF-Profil Hier mein Python Script mit ein kleinen Video Würde mich über Feedback freuen! Gerd
  23. Hello Ultimaker community! When I print the Ultimaker Robot with Octoprint, the hands gets messy. Well, not only the hands. The lower parts of the arms are just random strings. The same robot from the SD-card prints excellent. Every time. The photo shows the difference. These examples are printed in ABS. I have made an effort in ensuring that they are printed with the same settings, from Cura. I have repeated this ca 10 times and changed only one factor each time. The results are consistent and I dare to say it´s not random. I run latest Octoprint on an RPi2 connected to my network by ethernet cable and to UM2+ by USB. * I´ve used Cura 3.10 from Win10 and Mac * I´ve used the UM2+ firmware from Cura 3.04 and Tinker V17.10.1 * Gcode flavor is set to Marlin but RepRap is also tested * I´ve printed in PLA, ABS and XT The results have been identical. The start and stop gcode in Cura are altered slightly to output more material before print and to lower the plate after print. This works. I would really like to get this working because everything looks super slick and works like a charm - except the results. My plan is to add the 7" touchscreen to Octoprint/OctoPi once this is working. Grateful for any help to make this awesome! Best regards /Carl-Henrik
  24. Hello every one, I was thinking about adding an optical sensor in the feeder of the UM3. I would like the sensor to pause a print. But I can't find the schematics for the UM3 Pcb to know if is there any pin I can use... Isn't supposed to be open source? Thanks for the help
  25. Hello, i'd like to upgrade this t Umo+ single extruder to dual by adding parts , not changing the main extruder head itself .so any designs and information for this ?
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