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  1. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  2. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  3. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps of heater 2 changes - Cleaning print menu Temperatur 2 is removed but material flow 1 and 2 are still available - Material change for second nozzle changed, now it heat's hotend 1 with the temperature of the material 2 - Changing the function of advanced maintence At first step i changed the function of heatup of the second nozzle. Changing this temp changes the temp of the first heater. - Changing the function move material 2 in advanced maintence If it's selected it changes the temp of hotend 1 with the temp of material 2 and when the temp ist arrived I can move the material 2 (E2) - Build a Cura 3.3.1 printer configuration (I modified the config of Link) What are the next steps? - Finishing the cleaning of advanced maintence (remove heatup secondary nozzle, it's a little big trickier as I thought) - Check if it's possible to deactivate the error for the missing Tempsensor, if not a potentiometer should work great ? - Build and mod the printer, make test's and show the finished build here (parts are ordered and I'm waiting) ? - Show the prints here and on my homepage - Make a documentation of the build (mod), will publish the documentation here @ SeoGeo_de - Publish the Marlin code on Github Needed parts: - Change filament size to 1.75 mm - 2 new extruder requiered with 1.75 mm support - 1 new Steppermotor for E2 - Cyclops V2 printhead and a few small parts At last known issues / specification - GCODE has to be Marlincode, with Ultimaker code it don't work (for me no problem because I use octoprint) - I can't check in Marlin if the GCODE sent temp is the print temp or the standby temp, so I have to set for the standbytemp the printing temp of the other material. Example: Extruder 1 PLA Extruder 2 ABS Print temp 200°C 240°C Standbay temp 240°C 200°C If somebody know how I can detect if the send temp is printtemp or standbytemp, this step can be ignored - Change the filament size to 1.75 mm (I didn't found an Cyclops with 2.85 mm) If somebody have questions or can help me with my issues, please answer here or write me a pm. Sorry for my english I hope all can understand what i have wrote. Bye Daniel
  4. PDF READY VERSION AT: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-upgrade-on-umo-assembly-manual Well I finally got one UM2kit and I'm getting ready to install it on one of my umo+. So far everything it's just very plug and play. @Meduza Addon's to install it on Umo+ Rotated printhead https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo Feeder adaptor https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo I'll post more as soon I get my hands dirty this weekend, but since the printed parts are ready I suppose it won't take much time, unless I stop for an ice-cream or a coffee. I'm also making slideblocks to use the longer um2 shafts, and I'll try to advance in that direction after the basic installation it's done and running. For more on that go to: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21074-beyond-slideblocks-for-umo-to-use-um2-shafts-hotend First steps - Setting all ready Hotend Before starting. You will need to be sure that the printed part x4 screw holes are clean and the long hotend screws are clean. If not, use a 3mm drill bit or a file (or the screws until they pass clean and smoothly. Take out the bowden and the clip from the um2+ hotend. Unscrew the x4 long screws and take out the top of the hotend black plastic. Don't worry the bottom part with the coupler, nozzle and all that won't move a bit, that part it's independent on um2/um2+ hotend. Then take out the um2 top and replace it with the new printed part. BUT remember to ROTATE it 90 Degrees, so the top bearing it's facing you. Make sure that the back CABLES ain't being crush and they are just like they where when we started this. I must say that it's almost imposible to crush them since they are really neatly installed, but better safe than sorry. Insert the bowden clip, bowden and blue thingy. Ok, hotend ready to use. Let's do some other stuff. Feeder time The metal adaptor that comes with the upgrade kit won't be needed for umo+. Just the white feeder part. Get x4 m3 10mm and screw the motor to the feeder hanger. After that, you need to secure the white gear feeder to the meduza adaptor. This time you need x2 nuts and x2 m3 14-16mm. You could even use 20mm or longer for this since they won't touch anything but to make it look clean try to use 14-16mm. Ok feeder done. One think I noticed @meduza it's that there's no clearance to grip the cable later on. So this part might need a little bit of adjustment. Anyhow isn't biggie. Time to update the hardware  First, disconnect the power and make sure there’s no residual power on the machine (do a turn on/off while unplugged) Take out the board Wooden cover This part depends on what model of board you have, 2.1.1 needs a flat screw driver while 2.1.4 have a different clamp system for the Heater. Unscrew the heater 1 cables  Relax the velcro fastening.  Take out Temp 1 sensor.  If you installed it like me, with the pt100 behind the board, you will need to unscrew the board a bit so there’s wiggle room to pull it out. Move the bed to the z if needed.  Pt100 disconnected fully  Unplug the fan cable. Same as before, if you installed behind the board you know the drill.  Cables ready to take out, pt100, heater, fan.  Pull out the 3 cables, you won’t need them anytime soon.  Disconnect feeder 1 motor  To take the feeder 1 cable out it’s better to push with the fingernail on the top of the plastic, this way you make sure you don’t pull the cables out of the connector.  Time to pull out the feeder motor and from the frame too. Save it for a rainy day.  Hang the new feeder motor with it’s adaptor and pass the cable trough and plug it where the old feeder was.  Fix the hotend somewhere safe so you can work with the new um2+ hotend cables. They come with a tape so it’s very easy to pull them trough the hole.  Since the cables come with a snake’s skin protector, you can avoid to insert them on the umo+ guide, also it’s much easier to remove if sometime goes wront.  Ok cables in.  Stick the cables on a side and pick the heater cables to install then.  Install heater 1 IMPORTANT STEP. Now the PT100, I really recommend to pass it behind the board. Pass it behind the board, if you didn’t unscrew a bit the board (from inside the machine, not the ones outside) you can do it now. Use sometime to pass the cable behind. I used the tweezers I use to pick the filament when it purges.  Connect the pt100. As you can see the cable reach perfectly, but there’s very little wiggle room, that’s why it’s important to pass it behind the board.  Now the fan. Cable yellow/green colores with a molex. Same as the pt100, pass it behind the board.  And now plug it  IMPORTANT STEP This might be a new connector for some of you, this one it’s the 5v hotend fan. If you have a 2.1.1 this little fan (it’s almost noise-less, for real) will stay on always. On 2.1.4 boards it won’t start until the hotend reaches 40C.  It only has one way to be plugged in  Now you can push up the board and tight the screws again. Remember to push the board up I did forgot and had to do it later…  Allright!! Now short the cables, use the velcro fastening thingy and rearrange a bit the mess.  Hotend time! Since I use Twisterblocks this step it’s very very fast. For users with standard wooden blocks, go to the page 54 of the Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual It’s a very easy and fast step, so don’t worry.  UMO+ hotend out! Take the x/y shafts. It’s a good moment to clean them with a fiberless cloth.  You should have the hotend and feeder ready to save them for a rainy day. Bag them so they don’t get dust.  Time to install the new um2+ hotend!!  Secure the hotend. Basically the step you did to dissasemble the slideblocks, but reverse it.  Everything almost ready!  Remember to recalibrate x/y. With my twisterblocks I didn’t had to do it, but with the original wood blocks you will need to do this. if you forgot how to do it. It’s a very good video!  Time to adjust the firmware! Set the Esteps on to 369.0 (Control / Motion & scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img. Now the PID of the hotend. (Control / Temperature / scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.  Remember to save them!  Thinks that are different. UM2+ Fans don’t start to move until they reach 100/255, so you will need to readjust your cooling settings. Ultimaker 2 Firmware has a KICKSTART at 200millisec (keep reading about this on the next point) and a minimum pwm of 20. So for UMO+ you need the Amedee custom firmware builder to make it work easier. The best custom umo+ firmware builder it’s made by @amedee. Read the basic tutorial I made at Ultimaker Original custom firmware builder. Remember to realign the Z! Also if you plan to use I2K to go higher than 260C you will need to install a custom firmware. Enjoy!!!
  5. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  6. Hello To my undestanding the Ultimaker is open source so i hope it is ok i ask this. I am trying to figure out how the interface to the print cores is done. I need to figure this out since i need to test a crazy idea i have. This idea includes having to control the temperature of the hotend. I have bought a spare BB 0.4 mm print core i need to control from a arduino or raspberry pi. I found the schematics for the print head here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/PCB files I am not sure but if i am correct the answer is hidden somewhere here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2118-G Cartridge PCB/Project Outputs for Cartridge PCB/Schematic Prints.PDF and here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2012-K Print head PCB/Schematic and layout pdf/Schematic Prints_printhead_2012-K_01.PDF From the latter it looks like it is a standard i2c interface. I am looking at the top right corner where it says hotend 2. From the first - which i assume is the diagram for the print core - i guess the TP1 to TP4 correstponds to the P1 to P4 below in the diagram. 1) is the connection to the temperature sensor i assume 2) is a connection to ground 3) is the positive connection to the heat sensor and the positive connection to the heater 4) is the ??? This doesn't make sence. Is there two heaters or ??? is it possible to have the sda and scl on the same wire (3)? Can you help me?
  7. Hat jemand schon den IR-Sensor von David Crocker am Ultimainboard 2.1.4 angeklemmt bekommen bzw. ABL mi Marlin 1.1.9 oder jünger zum laufen gebracht? Bin jetzt am überlegen, wie ich es am Besten bewerkstelligen soll... Variante 1: Transistor an die Signalleitung klemmen, der an den Anschluss Z-Switch kommt, Z-Min und Z-Max wechseln. Variante 2: Über einen der freien Pins am Board codieren und Firmware anpassen.
  8. I’ve owned a umo+ for quite a while now and am interested in upgrading to a dual extrusion system. In my research I was looking into the Mark 2 upgrade. I was wondering if it would be possible to upgrade my umo+ using the um2+ extrusion kit. Using neotko’s guide and then just following the Mark 2 instructions for the um2. Just curious if it would be a possible upgrade.
  9. I am finally getting around to posting this. We bought our UM3E about 12 months ago. The first time I ran a print over night, the filament jumped over the edge of the spool, got bound up around the spool post, and caused the print to fail (in the last 60 minutes of the 20 hour print job). I was very frustrated. So I designed a simple add-on to prevent this from happening again. The factory equipment restrains the filament at one point around the spool, leaving it free to jump the spool around the rest of spool. To fix this, I created two additional restraint arms. To make sure it fit correctly to the existing components, I downloaded the part CAD files from Ultimaker. It fits over the spool post, and positively locks into place against the existing retainer arm (to prevent it from rotating with the spool). When changing spools, you just sit the retainer on the side of the spool, and load it normally. A little turn ensures it is locked in.
  10. Guten morgen zusammen, nach erfolgreicher Installation und auch firmeware tausch auf die vorgesehene von bondtech macht mein Spielzeug nun mysteriöse Geräusche im Gehäuse des Extruders beim Einzug des filmendes beim Drucken „knack knack knack knack“ hört sich an als ob etwas überdreht. Hat wer sowas vielleicht schon erlebt und eine Lösung gefunden? Schönen Sonntag!
  11. Hello everyone, I have recently started to use Octoprint on my ultimaker 2+ and I really love it. I have also like a lot the timelapse that is possible to create with the Octolapse plugin specially yhe famous one without head movement! Unfortunately I haven't found anyone sharing setting for the Ultimaker 2+ (open firmware) I was wondering if anyone had experience yet! Many thanks in advance! Emaunuele
  12. I want to use the Ultimaker 3- 3D printer to Print with Very high temperature materials such as: PEEK, PEKK, ULTEM and their carbon and glass fibre variants with print temperatures between 350 Degrees Celsius and over 400 Degrees Celsius. The problem is the temperature malfunction that occurs just over 350 Degrees C, this is the part I need help with, How Can this Be bypassed? the project information: If you choose to do this, I am not responsible for the device jamming from excess paint/incorrect positioning of components during application of C-Coat (TM) given my directions. The Experimental means by which the existing hotend(s) should to be modified in order to prevent the plastic contacted surfaces from bending or melting During Use is described: ---before doing what is described, please clean all oil and dust from the metal surfaces to be painted!--- The entire heating block (Excluding the Nozzle, and the axially adjacent Nut) is Coated with: C-COATTM ceramic thermal-insulation Paint, using a very small paint brush, then leave to dry. raise the bottom of the heat-sink from the plastic holder so the heat-sink no longer makes contact with the plastic holder, either clamp the holder in this position or remove the top holder screw to release the tension in the spring all together, coat the bottom of the heat-sink with the C-Coat paint, then set aside to dry. Now the top screw must be removed in order to release tension on the spring for this step- pull the heatsink assembly all the way back in order to expose the bottom part of the heat sink connector which comes into contact with the plastic holder, now clamp or zip-tie the heatsink assembly in this position and apply a thin layer of C-Coat to the exposed metal surface, leave to dry, then remove to clamp or ziptye and push the coated bottom of the heat sink against the plastic holder face, secure and paint another thin layer on the end of the exposed metal surface, leave to dry, at this paint all of the faces that directly contact the surface of the plastic holder have been coated with the micro insulation paint (C-Coat). C-Coat insulation experinment:
  13. Hi Folks, Yesterday I come across a small stepper motor, that might be used on the extruder itself, or for some other use.. The weight is 50 gram and length 30 mm with 4 mm shaft. Not the smallest, but cost only 4 USD (500 Yen) so I bought 3 ea. Here is a picture: The "big" connector we are using on UM2 is shown beside the micro connector this mini stepper use. Specs is found here: https://wakamatsu.co.jp/biz/products/detail.php?product_id=62020023 This stepper is made here in Japan. Thanks Torgeir.
  14. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot ?
  15. I use BuildTak on my UM2+ and love it. Is it possible to use BuildTak on the UM3? I wonder if it would interfere with the new capacitive leveling function. It would seem like adding an extra couple of mm wouldn't make a difference with a capacitive sensor, but I wonder if Ultimaker can answer this officially.
  16. GolaxR6

    Bondtech QR 3.0 Universal

    Hallo, hat jemand den Bondtech QR 3.0 Universal Feeder (Link zum Shop) am Ultimaker 2 im Einsatz? Mit 142€ ist er sehr teuer, aber ist er auch das Geld wert? Da der Motor komplett geliefert wird, past dieser Motor mit seinen E-steps setting: 490 steps/mm ohne Änderungen zum UM2? Denke ob normal oder wie meiner Extended spielt keine Rolle. Über zeitnahe Info´s oder Meinungen dazu würde ich mich freuen, bevor ich ihn bestelle. Gruss Harry
  17. Hi all, This is my first time posting here so if there is anything I don't do correctly please let me know. Thanks! So I am working on adding a DIY heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. I am going the route of basically recreating the HBK on my own. By this I mean I got the aluminum build platform and UM2 style heatbed. The heatbed I got stated it had a 100k thermistor built in. My current design consists of the heatbed powered directly from a 24v power supply which is switched via a Solid State DC relay by the Ultimaker board. I have the relay hooked up to the "Heatbed" screw terminals on the ultimaker board. The thermistor wires are hooked into Temp3 screw terminals. I already soldered in the 4.7k resistor into the R4 position on the board. I tried updating the firmware via the Ultimaker firmware builder but was unsure what selection to choose for my thermistor (from the dropdown menu). I am running into issues with the board not recognizing the thermistor which could be a product of this. The LCD reads 100/0 for the bed and when I try to set a temp for it, it immediately clears it back to 0. I have the board currently detached from the rest of the printer (besides the arduino), and couldn't imagine this would cause any problems, but figured it was worth mentioning. So my question is, what selection should work for the 100k thermistor and 4.7k resistor in the ultimaker firmware builder? Or am I better off using something else to do so. I picked one of the 100k thermistor options from the dropdown, but if I did pick correctly where should I look next as the cause of these problems. Thank you all!!
  18. I recently added a 10-Watt laser to my UM2E+ printer. I also have a UM3E printer, which I used to print parts to do this. I have carefully enclosed the printer, ventilated it to outside, added OD3+ door and window for safety, coupled with wearing OD3+ goggles. I've attached a photo of the setup. It functions re asonably well, using both Inkscape and T2Laser software packages. What I would very much appreciate help with now has to do with the printer firmware. I see various comments about firmware mods for related purposes in the community, but I have no experience at all with the software packages mentioned. The particular items that would be most valuable are, first of all, a disabling of the firmware command causing the printer to home the head after each print job. That is no longer possible with the laser attached, since the laser mount would hit the wall just before it gets to the home position. What I do now is simply switch off the printer when it starts to head home. Other items would include the automatic "kickstart" for the fans, I'm using the fan control to provide the control of the laser power. The extra "flashes" when it goes up from zero are not desired. What would perhaps be most useful of all, though, would be the ability to see and control the X, Y, and Z values from the menu and to set the the X, Y, and Z limits that now exist because of the presence of the laser. I will be very interested in any comments or suggestions as to how I should proceed.
  19. I own two Ultimaker 2+ and have created a laser attachment for the print head and a control board plus scripts to expose PCBs with the Ultimaker. It's a small UM firmware mod (on basis of the tinker firmware) that give a "sync" signal on one of the extension ports of the Ultimaker mainboard and a Arduino based controller (Arduino Pro Micro, the quite small thingy) that receives the pixels via USB/serial connection (for example from a Raspberry Pi that's running OctoPrint in parallel) and "streams" them to the laser driver upon receiving the sync signal from the UM. Essentially the print head is moving with constant speed left-to-right and the laser is switched by the controller independently matching that speed. So the core idea is to use the mechanics of the Ultimaker 2, but aside of the sync signal not do any larger mods to it. Which even makes it a universal solution for any precise mechanic like that. I had done one try to get the pixel streaming into the firmware, but there is a conflict between the timer interrupts for motor control and the pixel streaming coming up. Possibly doable to untangle that, but that felt like a painful road so I decided for that external controller, simplifying the thing enormously. With that solution I can achieve results down to 3-4mil of resolution which is much better than what I could achieve with the regular film printing & exposure methods or toner transfer. See attached photos (thanks to Henner Zeller the creator of the LDgraphy laser exposure device for the excellent test pattern, https://github.com/hzeller/ldgraphy). Video of the exposure process: That for the background, now to the question that I have. Currently the creation of the G-Code for the printer and the "bitstream" file are plain Python scripts I have to call, transfer the files to the OctoPi, run my "bit streamer" and start OctoPi with the G-Code file. Pretty manual process. Now I would like to integrate all this into a OctoPrint plug-in to use OctoPi as a central UI. That would be much more transparent and comfortable and could also provide the calibration tools to adjust PCB position and focus height in a few clicks. Would anyone be interested to join in to develop and test this? P.S. the holder of the laser head attachment bases on the Mark 2 dual head magnetic plate, so it's easily attachable and removable.
  20. dennispo

    Pokemon GOOOOO!

  21. Hello, i'd like to upgrade this t Umo+ single extruder to dual by adding parts , not changing the main extruder head itself .so any designs and information for this ?
  22. I wish the mouse view controls worked like FreeCAD. The right click for rotation is very awkward to use. In FreeCAD the view controls are: SHIFT + Mouse Move (no button click) to pan view ALT + Mouse Move (no button click) to rotate view It seems very intuitive to just hold either the CTRL or ALT key and move the mouse to pan and rotate the camera view. On Windows 10 without a mouse, Shift+Click pans and Right+Click rotates. The CTRL+Click does nothing. A weird mix of mouse and touchpad control.
  23. L’UM3 a hérité de bon nombre d’organes « mécaniques » de sa prédécesseure, l’UM2. Mais pour gagner son sticker « 3 », elle a subi quelques évolutions notables comme un nouveau design de tête et de buses adaptées à la double extrusion ainsi qu’un nouveau plateau plus rigide. De son côté, l’UM2+ a hérité du feeder de l’UM3 mais également du bloc Olsson, élevé au rang de standard. Conclusion, les UMs partagent énormément de pièces… Si je devais acheter une UM2+, je rongerai mon frein en me disant : « mais pourquoi continue-t-on à trainer ce bout d’aluminium bien trop plat en guise de plateau alors que celui de l’UM3 semble si prometteur, ou à défaut, moins sensible aux vibrations ? ». Question : peut-on monter le plateau de l’UM3 sur une UM2/UM2+ ? Etudions la question. Les différences majeures Elles sont au nombre de trois : 1. Les câbles qui relient le plateau à la carte électronique passent par la gauche sur l’UM2 et par la droite sur l’UM3. 2. La vis de réglage de fin de course du plateau est située sur la gauche pour un UM3 et sur la droite sur une UM2. 3. Le « cache roulements linéaires » est différent sur les UM2 et les UM3. Pour tout le reste, les pièces sont communes ou peuvent se monter sans problème : le lit chauffant de l’UM2 se monte sans modification sur le plateau de l’UM3, les vis de réglage sont identiques. Alors pourquoi se priver, d’autant que le plateau de l’UM3 vaut une cinquantaine d’€uro… hein ? En image, les adaptations nécessaires :
  24. Hi All; I got an UM2 printing PEEK well enough to complete my Masters research project. I received great help and advice on these forums and hopefully posting the results here helps the community. Here's a link to the system development: https://drive.google.com/a/tcd.ie/file/d/0B5czN7u52TZnZEhUN0x4NWFtams/view and here's a link to the whole masters: https://drive.google.com/a/tcd.ie/file/d/0B5czN7u52TZnWE1vRlBPSFEwWGM/view Thanks to everyone who gave me help and advice here. I also helped set up a Rapid Prototyping lab with 5 UM2s during my final year for students to use freely; was a great success, good little printers! Mike
  25. Hello, anyone have any experience with paste extruders & bio printing ?♥

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