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  1. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  2. Guys I am in dire need of your assistance.... So I took on the challenge of building a cloned Ultimaker 2 Extended (with a few self mods) but have run into a problem at the last hurdle. So basically the first layer goes down incredibly well with the X & Y axis printing out perfectly and dimensions are perfect too but thats when things to to hell. After the second layer or so there seems to be both an issue with under extrusion and Z axis height. Now I have both checked the step height on the Z axis and the extruder and both are moving at acceptable distances. I.e I have moved the Z axis 25mm and the resulting movement has 25.195 (i am an engineer with advances measuring equipment) the same goes with the extruder I have extruded 50mm of material and have measured 52.5 (a little over I know but wouldn't explain under extrusion). In an attempt to alleviate this issue I updated the firmware to TinkerMaker but the problem still persists. I have also added a cooling fan to the stepper drivers which has made no difference. The power supply is a 24V 15A so should be able to handle things, I have reduced bed temperature to 25DegC just in case I was overloading. I am basically at the pulling out of hair stage and could be doing with a fresh perspective if anyone could help.
  3. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es etwas umbauen. Beide Düsen gehen bis 400°C und werden durch eine Wasserkühlung gekühlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So können Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfräse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. Teuer aber lohnenswert. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilität wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Blöcke wurden neu designt. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir ständig vibriert hat, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen sind im Nachhinein sichtbar und können sogar während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Wozu mit "gefährlichen" und teueren Substanzen arbeiten, wenn man einen 3D-Drucker hat? Einfach den Aufsatz für den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach außen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90°C heiß werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zusätzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erwärmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90°C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturlüfter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und kühlt die Druckobjekte auf Glasübergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping mehr. 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0,005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualität kann man auch noch über die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 Düse auf Wasserkühlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  4. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  5. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  6. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  7. Hello everyone, I have recently started to use Octoprint on my ultimaker 2+ and I really love it. I have also like a lot the timelapse that is possible to create with the Octolapse plugin specially yhe famous one without head movement! Unfortunately I haven't found anyone sharing setting for the Ultimaker 2+ (open firmware) I was wondering if anyone had experience yet! Many thanks in advance! Emaunuele
  8. Hello everybody, My Ultimaker Original Has some modifications like DIY Hot Bed (with 100K thermistor), axes motors outside the machine and so on. I generally modify my firmware from the "firmware builder" provided by this website. I'm now working on a new concept for a better usage of my second nozzle and I need to activate the pins from 8 to 13 that are not used by my board so far (version 1.5.7.). I've wired them to make some experiments: I've connected a LEd to see if they can be activated, they blink twice when I turn my printer on. But I don't know how to use them, I guess I need to make some adjustement on the firmware. CAN SOMEONE HELP ME ON IT? (My final intention is to activate them when my printer passes from a nozzle to the other, I will add some line of Gcode in the cura's options in machine settings) Thank you.
  9. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  10. Hi there, i am upgrading my ultimaker orginal from standart dual extrusion to a rotary printhead. I got inspired of the rotary printhead long time ago but i did never started to design my own one for the ultimaker till now. here are some videos which inspired me: My goals are: -having fun -no oozing -fast switching between heads -very light printhead to keep the accelaration high -printing without prime tower, ooze shield... to save print time -using magnets for rotary fixing -using the x-axis to switch between the heads -get a easy to print design in the end so anybody who want it can print it -integrate e3d v6 hotends -upgrade to e3d titan extruder (not on the printhead) -customise original firmware -generate printing profiles I already redisigned my first dual head (never printed only disigned) to version 2 Old design: New design: -new bearing rotary axes -more magnets (clamping of the hotends fan duct) This only the beta type to try out the mechnical characteristics of the rotary axis. I already printed 75% of it, pictures coming soon Feel free to ask questions, and of course if you have further ideas tell me. Greetings Zeno
  11. I was able to successfully convert my UM2 to a UM2+ then a UM2+ Mark2 with magnetic docking second head. Now I have hacked in the UM3 print head !. cool now I have a Mark2 system with quick change UM3 print cores ! I totally destroyed the UM3 print head PCB lol. I had to remove all IC's and resistors form the board, then I "hot wired" the CORE connections to the main cable header lol. LED's do not currently work, but they will soon show the active extruder, only 1 color though. Capacitive Z sensor is non operational since I am using the Original UM2 electronics coupled with Mark2 firmware. I started off by going off the deep end buying the UM3 electronics etc. then I found out that all I needed to do was use everything I already had. at first I wanted the autoleveling, RGB core LED's etc. Anyway, this is very simple to do if you don't mind killing a UM3 print head 😉 and already have Mark2 operational 🙂 Here is a quick video showing the Mark2 Docking sequence adjusted to hit the nozzle shift lever bracket. Mark2 Print core swap Enoy, Dave
  12. I was wondering what kind of speeds users with Bondtech extruders are using? My print speeds are fairly low as I have seen quality issues when printing above 40mm/s (using 0.4mm nozzle and 0.1mm layers) and I was curious if Bondtech users have been able to print faster without quality loss? I also noticed they have a new extruder (DDG) for the UM2+ that uses much of the existing UM2+ extruder components. Other than being a slightly lower gear ratio than the QR extruders (311 steps/mm vs 492.45 steps/mm) the drive mechanism is the same, so for $70 less the DDG extruder seems like a good deal. http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/upgrade-kits/ultimaker/ddg-extruder_ultimaker2_en.html
  13. I want to add dual extrusion to my UM2+ Currently (as far as I can tell) there are two projects that deal with Dual Extrusion on the UM2+ ULTICREATR 2X http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/ulticreatr/164-ulticreatr-2x.html#/52-printer-ultimaker_2 Mark2 https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/ From what little I can gather, the Ulticreatr 2x setup would have issues with the nozzle hitting the part, the temperature from one nozzle creeping into the other, and oozing. Is this really an issue with the Ulticreatr 2x? Does anyone have first hand experience with this setup? The videos/images on their site are very pretty. The Mark2 looks like it would reduce the printable area on the bed because it has to park the second carriage (it would also take longer to print if there are lots of color changes). Is this an accurate assessment? Are these the only two options? What does it take to build a Dual Extrusion setup? If I were to build my own Dual Extrusion by utilizing the existing parts (similar to how the Ulticreatr 2x works) what more is needed other than a second extruder, motor, bowden, and a nozzle/heatblock set? I guess this question is more of a: Why would I spend $705 USD on the Ulticreatr 2x when I can just buy the parts I need for half that?
  14. I want to use the Ultimaker 3- 3D printer to Print with Very high temperature materials such as: PEEK, PEKK, ULTEM and their carbon and glass fibre variants with print temperatures between 350 Degrees Celsius and over 400 Degrees Celsius. The problem is the temperature malfunction that occurs just over 350 Degrees C, this is the part I need help with, How Can this Be bypassed? the project information: If you choose to do this, I am not responsible for the device jamming from excess paint/incorrect positioning of components during application of C-Coat (TM) given my directions. The Experimental means by which the existing hotend(s) should to be modified in order to prevent the plastic contacted surfaces from bending or melting During Use is described: ---before doing what is described, please clean all oil and dust from the metal surfaces to be painted!--- The entire heating block (Excluding the Nozzle, and the axially adjacent Nut) is Coated with: C-COATTM ceramic thermal-insulation Paint, using a very small paint brush, then leave to dry. raise the bottom of the heat-sink from the plastic holder so the heat-sink no longer makes contact with the plastic holder, either clamp the holder in this position or remove the top holder screw to release the tension in the spring all together, coat the bottom of the heat-sink with the C-Coat paint, then set aside to dry. Now the top screw must be removed in order to release tension on the spring for this step- pull the heatsink assembly all the way back in order to expose the bottom part of the heat sink connector which comes into contact with the plastic holder, now clamp or zip-tie the heatsink assembly in this position and apply a thin layer of C-Coat to the exposed metal surface, leave to dry, then remove to clamp or ziptye and push the coated bottom of the heat sink against the plastic holder face, secure and paint another thin layer on the end of the exposed metal surface, leave to dry, at this paint all of the faces that directly contact the surface of the plastic holder have been coated with the micro insulation paint (C-Coat). C-Coat insulation experinment:
  15. I want to create a Cura plugin to enable a user to label a model. The label would be text on the bed sitting next to the model. The text might simply be text, or include macros, like: "$speed" That, at slice time, is replaced with slice settings, such as the print speed in this case. I'm trying to figure out what hooks I can get into in Uranium (Cura code). I have read this page in the examples there: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Plugin-Directory Can anyone tell me, or point me to a link that explains, the set of available hooks? Does anyone have an advice on how a plug-in like this should be implemented? After reading the Tool plugin example at the link above, I imagine how this could be implemented as a Tool plugin, which receives events when the tools active, and then can work with the items in the Cura Scene. Some things I can see that I will have to do: - accept user input, (label content) - possibly consider selection in the scene, so that a user can apply a specific label to a specific item in the scene - replace macros with values at slice time - add items to the scene that get sliced by the slicer Any suggestions? Will
  16. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps of heater 2 changes - Cleaning print menu Temperatur 2 is removed but material flow 1 and 2 are still available - Material change for second nozzle changed, now it heat's hotend 1 with the temperature of the material 2 - Changing the function of advanced maintence At first step i changed the function of heatup of the second nozzle. Changing this temp changes the temp of the first heater. - Changing the function move material 2 in advanced maintence If it's selected it changes the temp of hotend 1 with the temp of material 2 and when the temp ist arrived I can move the material 2 (E2) - Build a Cura 3.3.1 printer configuration (I modified the config of Link) What are the next steps? - Finishing the cleaning of advanced maintence (remove heatup secondary nozzle, it's a little big trickier as I thought) - Check if it's possible to deactivate the error for the missing Tempsensor, if not a potentiometer should work great ? - Build and mod the printer, make test's and show the finished build here (parts are ordered and I'm waiting) ? - Show the prints here and on my homepage - Make a documentation of the build (mod), will publish the documentation here @ SeoGeo_de - Publish the Marlin code on Github Needed parts: - Change filament size to 1.75 mm - 2 new extruder requiered with 1.75 mm support - 1 new Steppermotor for E2 - Cyclops V2 printhead and a few small parts At last known issues / specification - GCODE has to be Marlincode, with Ultimaker code it don't work (for me no problem because I use octoprint) - I can't check in Marlin if the GCODE sent temp is the print temp or the standby temp, so I have to set for the standbytemp the printing temp of the other material. Example: Extruder 1 PLA Extruder 2 ABS Print temp 200°C 240°C Standbay temp 240°C 200°C If somebody know how I can detect if the send temp is printtemp or standbytemp, this step can be ignored - Change the filament size to 1.75 mm (I didn't found an Cyclops with 2.85 mm) If somebody have questions or can help me with my issues, please answer here or write me a pm. Sorry for my english I hope all can understand what i have wrote. Bye Daniel
  17. PDF READY VERSION AT: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-upgrade-on-umo-assembly-manual Well I finally got one UM2kit and I'm getting ready to install it on one of my umo+. So far everything it's just very plug and play. @Meduza Addon's to install it on Umo+ Rotated printhead https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo Feeder adaptor https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo I'll post more as soon I get my hands dirty this weekend, but since the printed parts are ready I suppose it won't take much time, unless I stop for an ice-cream or a coffee. I'm also making slideblocks to use the longer um2 shafts, and I'll try to advance in that direction after the basic installation it's done and running. For more on that go to: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21074-beyond-slideblocks-for-umo-to-use-um2-shafts-hotend First steps - Setting all ready Hotend Before starting. You will need to be sure that the printed part x4 screw holes are clean and the long hotend screws are clean. If not, use a 3mm drill bit or a file (or the screws until they pass clean and smoothly. Take out the bowden and the clip from the um2+ hotend. Unscrew the x4 long screws and take out the top of the hotend black plastic. Don't worry the bottom part with the coupler, nozzle and all that won't move a bit, that part it's independent on um2/um2+ hotend. Then take out the um2 top and replace it with the new printed part. BUT remember to ROTATE it 90 Degrees, so the top bearing it's facing you. Make sure that the back CABLES ain't being crush and they are just like they where when we started this. I must say that it's almost imposible to crush them since they are really neatly installed, but better safe than sorry. Insert the bowden clip, bowden and blue thingy. Ok, hotend ready to use. Let's do some other stuff. Feeder time The metal adaptor that comes with the upgrade kit won't be needed for umo+. Just the white feeder part. Get x4 m3 10mm and screw the motor to the feeder hanger. After that, you need to secure the white gear feeder to the meduza adaptor. This time you need x2 nuts and x2 m3 14-16mm. You could even use 20mm or longer for this since they won't touch anything but to make it look clean try to use 14-16mm. Ok feeder done. One think I noticed @meduza it's that there's no clearance to grip the cable later on. So this part might need a little bit of adjustment. Anyhow isn't biggie. Time to update the hardware  First, disconnect the power and make sure there’s no residual power on the machine (do a turn on/off while unplugged) Take out the board Wooden cover This part depends on what model of board you have, 2.1.1 needs a flat screw driver while 2.1.4 have a different clamp system for the Heater. Unscrew the heater 1 cables  Relax the velcro fastening.  Take out Temp 1 sensor.  If you installed it like me, with the pt100 behind the board, you will need to unscrew the board a bit so there’s wiggle room to pull it out. Move the bed to the z if needed.  Pt100 disconnected fully  Unplug the fan cable. Same as before, if you installed behind the board you know the drill.  Cables ready to take out, pt100, heater, fan.  Pull out the 3 cables, you won’t need them anytime soon.  Disconnect feeder 1 motor  To take the feeder 1 cable out it’s better to push with the fingernail on the top of the plastic, this way you make sure you don’t pull the cables out of the connector.  Time to pull out the feeder motor and from the frame too. Save it for a rainy day.  Hang the new feeder motor with it’s adaptor and pass the cable trough and plug it where the old feeder was.  Fix the hotend somewhere safe so you can work with the new um2+ hotend cables. They come with a tape so it’s very easy to pull them trough the hole.  Since the cables come with a snake’s skin protector, you can avoid to insert them on the umo+ guide, also it’s much easier to remove if sometime goes wront.  Ok cables in.  Stick the cables on a side and pick the heater cables to install then.  Install heater 1 IMPORTANT STEP. Now the PT100, I really recommend to pass it behind the board. Pass it behind the board, if you didn’t unscrew a bit the board (from inside the machine, not the ones outside) you can do it now. Use sometime to pass the cable behind. I used the tweezers I use to pick the filament when it purges.  Connect the pt100. As you can see the cable reach perfectly, but there’s very little wiggle room, that’s why it’s important to pass it behind the board.  Now the fan. Cable yellow/green colores with a molex. Same as the pt100, pass it behind the board.  And now plug it  IMPORTANT STEP This might be a new connector for some of you, this one it’s the 5v hotend fan. If you have a 2.1.1 this little fan (it’s almost noise-less, for real) will stay on always. On 2.1.4 boards it won’t start until the hotend reaches 40C.  It only has one way to be plugged in  Now you can push up the board and tight the screws again. Remember to push the board up I did forgot and had to do it later…  Allright!! Now short the cables, use the velcro fastening thingy and rearrange a bit the mess.  Hotend time! Since I use Twisterblocks this step it’s very very fast. For users with standard wooden blocks, go to the page 54 of the Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual It’s a very easy and fast step, so don’t worry.  UMO+ hotend out! Take the x/y shafts. It’s a good moment to clean them with a fiberless cloth.  You should have the hotend and feeder ready to save them for a rainy day. Bag them so they don’t get dust.  Time to install the new um2+ hotend!!  Secure the hotend. Basically the step you did to dissasemble the slideblocks, but reverse it.  Everything almost ready!  Remember to recalibrate x/y. With my twisterblocks I didn’t had to do it, but with the original wood blocks you will need to do this. if you forgot how to do it. It’s a very good video!  Time to adjust the firmware! Set the Esteps on to 369.0 (Control / Motion & scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img. Now the PID of the hotend. (Control / Temperature / scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.  Remember to save them!  Thinks that are different. UM2+ Fans don’t start to move until they reach 100/255, so you will need to readjust your cooling settings. Ultimaker 2 Firmware has a KICKSTART at 200millisec (keep reading about this on the next point) and a minimum pwm of 20. So for UMO+ you need the Amedee custom firmware builder to make it work easier. The best custom umo+ firmware builder it’s made by @amedee. Read the basic tutorial I made at Ultimaker Original custom firmware builder. Remember to realign the Z! Also if you plan to use I2K to go higher than 260C you will need to install a custom firmware. Enjoy!!!
  18. Hello To my undestanding the Ultimaker is open source so i hope it is ok i ask this. I am trying to figure out how the interface to the print cores is done. I need to figure this out since i need to test a crazy idea i have. This idea includes having to control the temperature of the hotend. I have bought a spare BB 0.4 mm print core i need to control from a arduino or raspberry pi. I found the schematics for the print head here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/PCB files I am not sure but if i am correct the answer is hidden somewhere here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2118-G Cartridge PCB/Project Outputs for Cartridge PCB/Schematic Prints.PDF and here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2012-K Print head PCB/Schematic and layout pdf/Schematic Prints_printhead_2012-K_01.PDF From the latter it looks like it is a standard i2c interface. I am looking at the top right corner where it says hotend 2. From the first - which i assume is the diagram for the print core - i guess the TP1 to TP4 correstponds to the P1 to P4 below in the diagram. 1) is the connection to the temperature sensor i assume 2) is a connection to ground 3) is the positive connection to the heat sensor and the positive connection to the heater 4) is the ??? This doesn't make sence. Is there two heaters or ??? is it possible to have the sda and scl on the same wire (3)? Can you help me?
  19. Hat jemand schon den IR-Sensor von David Crocker am Ultimainboard 2.1.4 angeklemmt bekommen bzw. ABL mi Marlin 1.1.9 oder jünger zum laufen gebracht? Bin jetzt am überlegen, wie ich es am Besten bewerkstelligen soll... Variante 1: Transistor an die Signalleitung klemmen, der an den Anschluss Z-Switch kommt, Z-Min und Z-Max wechseln. Variante 2: Über einen der freien Pins am Board codieren und Firmware anpassen.
  20. I’ve owned a umo+ for quite a while now and am interested in upgrading to a dual extrusion system. In my research I was looking into the Mark 2 upgrade. I was wondering if it would be possible to upgrade my umo+ using the um2+ extrusion kit. Using neotko’s guide and then just following the Mark 2 instructions for the um2. Just curious if it would be a possible upgrade.
  21. I am finally getting around to posting this. We bought our UM3E about 12 months ago. The first time I ran a print over night, the filament jumped over the edge of the spool, got bound up around the spool post, and caused the print to fail (in the last 60 minutes of the 20 hour print job). I was very frustrated. So I designed a simple add-on to prevent this from happening again. The factory equipment restrains the filament at one point around the spool, leaving it free to jump the spool around the rest of spool. To fix this, I created two additional restraint arms. To make sure it fit correctly to the existing components, I downloaded the part CAD files from Ultimaker. It fits over the spool post, and positively locks into place against the existing retainer arm (to prevent it from rotating with the spool). When changing spools, you just sit the retainer on the side of the spool, and load it normally. A little turn ensures it is locked in.
  22. Guten morgen zusammen, nach erfolgreicher Installation und auch firmeware tausch auf die vorgesehene von bondtech macht mein Spielzeug nun mysteriöse Geräusche im Gehäuse des Extruders beim Einzug des filmendes beim Drucken „knack knack knack knack“ hört sich an als ob etwas überdreht. Hat wer sowas vielleicht schon erlebt und eine Lösung gefunden? Schönen Sonntag!
  23. Hi Folks, Yesterday I come across a small stepper motor, that might be used on the extruder itself, or for some other use.. The weight is 50 gram and length 30 mm with 4 mm shaft. Not the smallest, but cost only 4 USD (500 Yen) so I bought 3 ea. Here is a picture: The "big" connector we are using on UM2 is shown beside the micro connector this mini stepper use. Specs is found here: https://wakamatsu.co.jp/biz/products/detail.php?product_id=62020023 This stepper is made here in Japan. Thanks Torgeir.
  24. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot ?
  25. I use BuildTak on my UM2+ and love it. Is it possible to use BuildTak on the UM3? I wonder if it would interfere with the new capacitive leveling function. It would seem like adding an extra couple of mm wouldn't make a difference with a capacitive sensor, but I wonder if Ultimaker can answer this officially.
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