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Found 32 results

  1. Hello, It has been a week that i am trying to print with the ultimaker Nylon black and after 5-6 layers of printing it stop and display the error 15 on the Um3E and 31 on the S5.(I use the ultimaker profile for the Black Nylon in cura) I tried on 2 different S5 and 2 different UM3E multiples times and it always display an error. I already tried to decrease the temperature of the core but it didn't work. Any suggestion?
  2. Hi friends, I have a question. If I print many components with different Print Sequences (all at once order one at a time), will it affect the quality of the product, such as mechanical properties? Thank you
  3. I'm running a Rostock with NyloX(carbon). My parts are designed in Fusion 360 then exported directly to Cura (Fusion has a thing that opens cura and inserts the part so it's the correct scale). My part's outside dimensions are small and the holes are small. Horizontal Expansion can make either the holes the correct size or the part the correct size, but not both, at the same time. What is the best method for sizing both. At the moment I'm giving the Horiz Exp a (1) value then adjusting my model holes larger in Fusion, by a percentage, based on hole size. Does anybody have a better way to accomplish this?
  4. Hi guys, New to the forum. So I have an UMS5 and I'm working on a prototype that needs to be printed in Nylon (I think). I'm looking for something heat (100 deg f) and salt water resistant that will get a bunch of direct sunlight, I figured Nylon might be a good solution. I read that Nylon should be printed on a glue layer to keep from the nylon sticking to the glass an possibly causing chips in the glass? I've found glue sticks messy to apply and hard to apply evenly. I've previously used Aquanet/Hairspray on an older printer, but before I go spraying my beautiful glass bed with hairspray I thought I'd ask the forum if anyone's been using Hairspray instead of Glue with Nylon prints on their S5? Any comments/feedback would be appreciated. Thanks for participating in the forum and helping the community as well as UM users like myself. DR
  5. Hello Everyone:) My NYLON and PVA are showing signs of moisture absorption (crackling sound when printing and bubbles) My current room humidity measures 45- 50% One thing still not clear is what is the Humidity % required to print PVA and Nylon (hygroscopic materials) without absorbing humidity ? On ultimaker website it seems to be written upto 50% is okay. but polymaker seems to say less than 15% humidity is required to print. I store both my materials in airtight box with lots of silica. I have attached photos of the same. http://www.3dtechsupplies.com.au/News/polybox-in-action-how-does-polymakers-dry-printing-and-storage-solution-perform https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52602-material-handling-and-storage What is the best option to print with my current humidity % (45-50%): ? Option1: Bake Nylon and PVA on the ultimaker 3 heatbed at 55 deg for few hours before hand when printing. and later keep it in the airtight box with silica. Option2: Make a carboard box with a lots of silica in it and put it on the ultimaker spools and stick it leaving 2 holes for material to feed into the feeder. ( I have made this for time being for some urgent prints. Option3: cover the whole printer with a huge box so that minimum air goes inside and put lot of silica inside. Option 4: Buy Poly box (drybox) for Nylon and PVA, But it will disable NFC feature and create other extrusion problems because of travel from poly box to feeder.( i read in posts) Please suggest best solution to this problem.
  6. Hallo Freunde des 3D-Druck, ich bin neu hier, nicht im 3D-Druck aber seit kurzem Besitzer eines Ultimaker Original Plus. Ich habe das Problem das wenn ich Nylon Drucke überall am Hotend Material austritt. Ich habe schon alles festgezogen, jedoch ohne Erfolg, und hoffe das hier jemand mir Tipps geben kann wie ich das Problem beseitigen kann. Vielen Dank. Grüße Sebastian von 3D ProtoPrint
  7. I am printing a fairly basic part in Nylon, and the final dimensions are very inaccurate in X and Y directions. For outer dimensions, the part is 0.3mm too big in X Y, for inner dimensions (hole in the XY plane) it is 0.7mm(!). When compensating with negative "horizontal expansion", the inner hole cuts into the wall in layer view at -0.35, so I have to compensate this in the CAD file... this is not a viable long-term solution! Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this in Cura? Also, the default UM material profiles in Cura generally seem to be rather unrefined and crude, judging from my experience - see the recent thread on CPE issues. When paying this amount of money for a machine, I expect much more, honestly - especially when seeing what quality for example a Prusa i3 for nearly 1/10 the price is capable of. If Ultimaker is serious about gaining industrial customers in the long term (and who else, apart from wealthy hobbyists, will pay ~6500€ for a FDM printer?), they really have to offer a solution that works without endless tinkering. On the positive side, at least in Z direction the accuracy is good so far.
  8. My goal was to print a part in nylon with a TPU overmolding. It seems like there's no way to set this up in Cura. When I open a STL file that has two bodies, they are not recognized as such and there's no way to assign an extruder to a body independently of the other. If I open two STL files, their position in space relative to one another is not respected. I can move one body to try to get it near where I want (after I discovered the option to disable "Automatically drop models to the build plate") but it's not precise, especially with Cura's display and perspective view.
  9. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  10. Guten Morgen! Wie lagert Ihr empfindliches Filament wie Nylon und PVA? Wir haben anscheinend massive Probleme mit Feuchtigkeit. Bisher wurden die Rollen nach dem Drucken in Beuteln mit kleinem Salztütchen gelagert, aber das reicht anscheinend nicht ganz aus. Gruß Andy
  11. Hello All, In need of some serious help. Please let me know if i should split this into multiple threads. I recently started 3D printing with my Ultimaker 3 Ex and I have ran into quite a few issues with my first few prints. The first issue was when I tried printing with PVA support. The result is on the first few pictures attached. My assumption was a plugged nozzle so I cleaned everything and when on to try a different print. This was the second one attached which I aborted about 10-20% of the way through due to what I am assuming is either underextrusion or some other issue causing the PVA to not attach to itself. Both of these were done with a 0.4AA Nozzle and 0.2 Layer Height. I then decided to attempt the same prints again (Both the first and the second one). But run a test on Nylon support with it, I also wanted to try a quicker print so I went with a 0.8AA Nozzle and 0.4 Layer height. I know these are a lot of changes but I am really trying to learn my way around ideal centerlines through cause and effect. Even though it maintained most of its structural integrity this print had quite a few issue's which I dont fully understand. I attached pictures of this last print. It looks like overextrusion or mistakes, leaving a substantial amount of material around and a less than desirable general quality of print. Im at a loss on what I am doing wrong or what I am missing for all these prints. Any kind of help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks a ton.
  12. I am planning to feed the double extrusion of a Ultimaker 3 (in the process of being purchased for an educational project I am participating to) with a PLA filament and an elastic one. For the latter, I am not sure how elastic a nylon filament would be, it surely deserves a try, but I should like to try Kyotoflex as well: http://treedfilaments.com/3d-printing-filaments/kyotoflex/. Is this compatible with the subject printer? If so, is there any special care to be taken to get satisfactory result? Thanks in advance for any help.
  13. After getting sick and tired of warping ABS I finally chucked it out the window put it in the bottom drawer. So I built a little desiccant box, popped my Nylon spool in, and set out printing. It's very strong, with little to no warping on all but the largest parts. However one persistent and regular issue is that near one corner of the print (though not wholly confined to there) appears large stringing/burls. Edit: Some additional observations, it appears the plastic making up the burs drips out of the nozzle while the printer switches filaments and is printing supports. What can I do in Cura to change this? The pictures attached are of the aforementioned corner of the print where the problem is. Feel free to ignore the PVA (two different support settings were used, hence one print's support has a bulge and the other doesn't) and folded-back brim.
  14. For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  15. hey, So I'm trying to print multiple objects on my UM2+ext, and it underextrudes severly see picture The one below is taulman bridge, no prob in the middle, colorfabb PLA, no prob Up, taulman bridge but printing 20 same models at the same time, Not good on any of them They all use the same settings, can't find the way to copy/past all settings from cura and I'm shure, the settings I'll give you will not be relevant ^^ I'll just say 100% infill, 70mm/s speed, 6.5mm restractation. merci beaucoup !
  16. Good morning, I work for a local Makerspace where we do a lot of prototyping for new product ideas, and so far I have enjoyed the Ultimaker 3. Were looking to use some of our non-ultimaker material in some prototyping projects, and as capable as this >$4000 printer is, it seems top lack a basic feature? I can't seem to find anywhere how or where to input custom materials, like our Ultimaker 2+s can. The default profiles aren't always optimal (or sometimes just don't work) with different variations of a material. Our Nylon (PA 12) does not work very well with the Nylon profile, and requires tweaking every time we print with it. There has to be a better way?
  17. Hi everyone, I am pretty new to 3D printing. I am using nylon and at first it printed well, but now I'm getting a lot of stringing. I bought a polybox and I have dried the nylon to prevent moisture from being an issue. I also increased retraction distance and speed while reducing the print temperature. What else can I do to improve my prints. Also when I go to dissolve the PVA the thin walled sections are warped. Is that because it shouldn't sit in water for a while? Can it still absorb water after its printed?
  18. We need to make some pieces for our laboratory that can be cleaned with organic solvents. Where can I find truthful information about the resistance of the various filaments to these solvents? The ideal would be in Nylon but we need to know if we can use other materials easier to print than Nylon. We have printed on Nylon but it still gives us warping problems. We print it in the UM3Extended. It has a door and lid and we pre-dry the Nylon and the PVA in the stove at 60º. During printing we cover the printer with a thermal blanket to avoid currents and temperature changes. Thanks in advance
  19. Hello, I was trying to print something when I noticed that CURA couldn't seem to decide between wall or infill for the first few layers, which led to many unnecessary retractions and movements during the print, and probably added some time to it, as well as making the bottom looks a bit ugly. Here's the picture, with the arrows pointing at the strange problem. I'm guessing it has to do with the thickness of the part, but I'm not too sure how I could fix that to have a nice wall. Note: this isn't something I designed myself, it's a part I was given to try and print.
  20. Hi people, I was happy to buy an Ultimaker 3 Extended last week, with the 0.4 mm print heads. I also bought a 750 g spool of transparent Ultimaker Nylon. I use the latest Cura 3.2.1 (which is super slow on Windows 10, by the way), and also updated the printer's firmware. But since then I run into a number of issues. Firstly, I tried printing the Ultibot design that came with the provided USB stick (so, default parameters), using the supplied PLA and PVA. PVA was extruding well from the BB head, but PLA was not from the AA head. Then, I switched to nylon. This worked well with PVA. So, I decided to print a custom design of a cylinder that has an internal structure. I sliced a small part of this (40 mm height) in Cura with the default parameters for Nylon and PVA. I was surprised to see how bad the result was. While the outer wall printed well, the internal structure did not look right, with nylon and PVA mixed randomly. At the end, after having it submerged in water for a few days, the whole internal structure just melted away. As indicated by others, the print became bendy as well after being in water for days. Assuming the structure was too thin to be printed properly, I changed the design by thickening the internal walls to 0.8 mm, and changed several Cura parameters. Specifically, I reduced line widths to 0.35 mm and the print speed to 30 mm/s or less, I increased the infill density of Nylon to 100% and the support density to 15%. Everything else was just the default. According to some online posts, these are sufficient to improve the quality of the print, while not spending loads of PVA. So I went for the full design (156 mm height). After almost 3 days, this stopped close to the end (not sure when exactly) and the printer showed an error: "The X or Y axis is stuck or the limit switch is broken". So, I discovered that the X axis switch is broken and needs replacement. But let's forget about this for now... The print stopped ~1-2 mm before finalizing. The prime tower fall at probably the middle of the print, and the cylinder was obviously missing a lot of support on the sides. After melting the PVA in water for a few hours, a big chunk (4-5 cm) from the top was... not there! So for the last several hours it was only printing with PVA. There is still plenty of Nylon on the spool. Honestly, I am quickly losing my faith to the printer, or this technology in general. Does anybody have any suggestions to solve the printing quality issues, at least? What would be the best approach for Nylon and PVA? Maybe use a different material? Thanks.
  21. I've been printing with colorFabb's new PA-CF Low Warp material recently to understand it's potential for strong, end-use parts, and to understand the settings required to get the best result. These two prints are produced using it, the lever is a direct copy of one of the "showcase" prints used by MarkForged to show what their printers are capable of (I believe it's a Ducati brake lever) which I produced so that I could compare a UM-produced "composite" print vs the MarkForged version. The connecting pipe is my own design with a few elements of Design for Additive Manufacturing (DfAM) added in to eliminate any overhangs, and hence need for support. Both parts were printed at 0.15mm layer height, using a 0.4mm Olsson Ruby nozzle on a UM2+ at 260 degC, which is at the limit of the hot end on this machine but is at the bottom end of the recommended print temperature window of 260-280deg C. For that reason I ran at 75% of my normal print speed to keep the temperature maintained, together with a 35% fan speed and 105% material flow setting. My first attempts with this material had issues with interlayer adhesion, these settings appear to have fixed that. The material is supposed to print on a cold bed, but I have found that using a 40deg C bed temperature works well (after spending working for 4 years 3D printing with a heated bed suddenly printing with it turned it off seems hard to come to terms with!). The material lives up to it's name because even over a 6 hour print there is no warping evident, and the material prints without any hissing, popping or spitting that you often get with PA/Nylon materials - the material has only been stored in a sealed bag with dessicant since I first opened it around five weeks ago - no drybox has been used. I'm really pleased with the results, both parts are very, very strong and I chose to use multiple shells (20 on the lever and 10 on the pipe) rather than use an infill, which seems to have been successful. The appearance of the pipe is especially good, the black matt surface really does disguise the layer lines, and gives the part a more "moulded" rather than 3D printed look to it. So how did the lever compare to the MarkForged? The MF part was exceptionally stiff and did have an advantage over this part in that respect, but then how often do you really need something with that kind of ultimate stiffness? I have to say that the MarkForged printers are very well made, easy to use and produce exceptional parts, but they do have a narrow area of focus and specialism. These latest prints have bought it home to me how versatile a UM printer can be - it can be producing artistic prints one day, and the next exceptionally strong, engineering-grade, end-use parts. Big respect to Ultimaker printers for their ability to cope with so many different materials and print reliably using them, and to companies like colorFabb for producing some exceptional filaments to keep on extending their capabilities even further!
  22. Images: PVA and stacked parts1: - my parts are stacked in an assembly, with space to place PVA or support material PVA and stacked parts2: - perspective view of the parts PVA and stacked parts3: - The problem with PVA support and stacked parts, it builds up an unnecessary, time and cost spending wall (6 hours extra for 8 parts) PVA and stacked parts4: - The problem with PVA support and stacked parts, it builds up an unnecessary, time and cost spending wall PVA and stacked parts5: - The same G-code with 43 parts printet without PVA just one material for part and support PVA and stacked parts5-1: detailed view of image5 I have market up the support with a yellow marker PVA and stacked parts6-Extruder1: Extruder1 selected PVA and stacked parts6-Extruder2: the only change is i have selected Extruder2 I have tried to set serval settings under support and I keep on getting these unnecessary walls, can anyone help me?
  23. Halo, I have a model with 198x190x15 dimensions to print with my Ultimaker 2+. When I insert it in Cura 3.1.0, with PLA as material to be used, it is correctly sliced but when I choose Nylon for the same model at the same position, it is not sliced and this error message appears : " Nothing to cut because none of this models corresponds to the impression volume". could some body help, please??
  24. Hi, I started testing the new PA from colorfabb: A minimum hot-end temperature of 260C is recommended and a heated bed at 40C / 50C is advised But my UM2+ restarts (black screen, stops extruding, restarts and shows the default menu) during the print of the second layer: slicer S3D; hot-end temperature 260°C; bed 50°C What I tested: Different parts: same problem Different slicer: same problem with cura (restarts after approx. 4th layer) Control of the hot-end temperature : The restarts happen with a hot-end temperatur of 259-260 °C Reducing the bed temperature: 50/40/30 °C same problem The solution: Disable the heated bed or T<20°C and the prints are fine But what I don't understand, I don't have any problems printing nGen (hot-end 227°C, bed 80°C) The hot-end should be fine: can print 260°C The bed should be fine: can print nGen with 80°C bed The power supply should be fine ? Printing with a 80°C bed should consume more power than printing 260°C? Is it the mainboard? The UM2+ should be able to print 260°C with a heated bed? I need the heated bed for better adhesion and avoiding wrapping. Thanks for your help!
  25. Hi, I have a very big problem, during my last print, nylon stuck around the printcore (all around) and I have no idea how i can solve two problem. first : remove the nylon (Tollman 910... I know.... it's not ultimaker problem) and how to never have this problem again. actually my solutions are : a new head a new printcore cry suicide lol I need to print a lot of part during hollydays so please give me some help Yves R yves.rossignol@yrtechnosoft.com
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