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  1. I'm still fairly new to this but I've started printing with Nylon for some pieces. I'm using Ultimaker Nylon (natural) using the default profile--typically at .1mm, sometimes at .15mm layers (AA 0.4 printcore). I get a lot of thick strings/nubs on the parts whether I'm printing with or without support material and whether using PVA or Breakaway support. I also notice occasionally a brown color to the nylon--often on the prime blob. I thought I might be printing too hot, though the standard template for .1mm layers uses 245C. Last night I printed a temperature tower runn
  2. Hello! I was curious if any of you run nylon on your machines and have had issues with stringing. Nylon in the past has run really well on my machine. I dry it out beforehand and have a makeshift enclosure for it. I've played with dropping the nylon temp down to 240, upping the retraction distance slowly to 8.5 and also the speed slowly up to 35. None of that really seems to work unless I've been pulling too many levers here. Any suggestions welcome. Thank you in advance. (BTW, there is no warp to the part in this picture, this was just me pulling up on the corner).
  3. Hello, For the future use of an UMS5 I have a question about printing small cylindrical pins in nylon of D2 x 20mm which schould later fits in 2mm holes in a nylon part. Should the pins be printed in vertikal or horizontal orientation in the printer/cura? For a smooth fitting, how much thinner should be the diameter of the pin? For example 1.95 mm for a 2mm hole? Or less? The pins should be pused in with medium power and should not fall out on its own. Regards Hans-Peter
  4. Hello, I am new to Ultimaker and 3D-Printing. I am interested in Nylon/pva printing. I read a lot here about problems with filament drying and moisture protection. There are solutions like Polybox from Polymaker. But when using that,the original filament holder is unused. No use of NFC- filament detection. So wouldn't it be better to build a cover that is attached to the S5 back. It would contain a silicea pack and would hold the spools dry in their original positions. By the way: For the price of an S5 it would even nicer if Ultimaker build
  5. Hello, It has been a week that i am trying to print with the ultimaker Nylon black and after 5-6 layers of printing it stop and display the error 15 on the Um3E and 31 on the S5.(I use the ultimaker profile for the Black Nylon in cura) I tried on 2 different S5 and 2 different UM3E multiples times and it always display an error. I already tried to decrease the temperature of the core but it didn't work. Any suggestion?
  6. Hi friends, I have a question. If I print many components with different Print Sequences (all at once order one at a time), will it affect the quality of the product, such as mechanical properties? Thank you
  7. I'm running a Rostock with NyloX(carbon). My parts are designed in Fusion 360 then exported directly to Cura (Fusion has a thing that opens cura and inserts the part so it's the correct scale). My part's outside dimensions are small and the holes are small. Horizontal Expansion can make either the holes the correct size or the part the correct size, but not both, at the same time. What is the best method for sizing both. At the moment I'm giving the Horiz Exp a (1) value then adjusting my model holes larger in Fusion, by a percentage, based on hole size. Does anybody have a better way to accom
  8. Hi guys, New to the forum. So I have an UMS5 and I'm working on a prototype that needs to be printed in Nylon (I think). I'm looking for something heat (100 deg f) and salt water resistant that will get a bunch of direct sunlight, I figured Nylon might be a good solution. I read that Nylon should be printed on a glue layer to keep from the nylon sticking to the glass an possibly causing chips in the glass? I've found glue sticks messy to apply and hard to apply evenly. I've previously used Aquanet/Hairspray on an older printer, but before I go spraying my beaut
  9. Hello Everyone:) My NYLON and PVA are showing signs of moisture absorption (crackling sound when printing and bubbles) My current room humidity measures 45- 50% One thing still not clear is what is the Humidity % required to print PVA and Nylon (hygroscopic materials) without absorbing humidity ? On ultimaker website it seems to be written upto 50% is okay. but polymaker seems to say less than 15% humidity is required to print. I store both my materials in airtight box with lots of silica. I have attached photos of the same. http://www.3dtechsupplies.com.au/News
  10. Hallo Freunde des 3D-Druck, ich bin neu hier, nicht im 3D-Druck aber seit kurzem Besitzer eines Ultimaker Original Plus. Ich habe das Problem das wenn ich Nylon Drucke überall am Hotend Material austritt. Ich habe schon alles festgezogen, jedoch ohne Erfolg, und hoffe das hier jemand mir Tipps geben kann wie ich das Problem beseitigen kann. Vielen Dank. Grüße Sebastian von 3D ProtoPrint
  11. I am printing a fairly basic part in Nylon, and the final dimensions are very inaccurate in X and Y directions. For outer dimensions, the part is 0.3mm too big in X Y, for inner dimensions (hole in the XY plane) it is 0.7mm(!). When compensating with negative "horizontal expansion", the inner hole cuts into the wall in layer view at -0.35, so I have to compensate this in the CAD file... this is not a viable long-term solution! Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this in Cura? Also, the default UM material profiles in Cura generally seem to be rather unrefined and crude, judg
  12. My goal was to print a part in nylon with a TPU overmolding. It seems like there's no way to set this up in Cura. When I open a STL file that has two bodies, they are not recognized as such and there's no way to assign an extruder to a body independently of the other. If I open two STL files, their position in space relative to one another is not respected. I can move one body to try to get it near where I want (after I discovered the option to disable "Automatically drop models to the build plate") but it's not precise, especially with Cura's display and perspective view.
  13. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affo
  14. Guten Morgen! Wie lagert Ihr empfindliches Filament wie Nylon und PVA? Wir haben anscheinend massive Probleme mit Feuchtigkeit. Bisher wurden die Rollen nach dem Drucken in Beuteln mit kleinem Salztütchen gelagert, aber das reicht anscheinend nicht ganz aus. Gruß Andy
  15. Hello All, In need of some serious help. Please let me know if i should split this into multiple threads. I recently started 3D printing with my Ultimaker 3 Ex and I have ran into quite a few issues with my first few prints. The first issue was when I tried printing with PVA support. The result is on the first few pictures attached. My assumption was a plugged nozzle so I cleaned everything and when on to try a different print. This was the second one attached which I aborted about 10-20% of the way through due to what I am assuming is either underextrusion or some other issu
  16. I am planning to feed the double extrusion of a Ultimaker 3 (in the process of being purchased for an educational project I am participating to) with a PLA filament and an elastic one. For the latter, I am not sure how elastic a nylon filament would be, it surely deserves a try, but I should like to try Kyotoflex as well: http://treedfilaments.com/3d-printing-filaments/kyotoflex/. Is this compatible with the subject printer? If so, is there any special care to be taken to get satisfactory result? Thanks in advance for any help.
  17. After getting sick and tired of warping ABS I finally chucked it out the window put it in the bottom drawer. So I built a little desiccant box, popped my Nylon spool in, and set out printing. It's very strong, with little to no warping on all but the largest parts. However one persistent and regular issue is that near one corner of the print (though not wholly confined to there) appears large stringing/burls. Edit: Some additional observations, it appears the plastic making up the burs drips out of the nozzle while the printer switches filaments and is printing supports.
  18. For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  19. hey, So I'm trying to print multiple objects on my UM2+ext, and it underextrudes severly see picture The one below is taulman bridge, no prob in the middle, colorfabb PLA, no prob Up, taulman bridge but printing 20 same models at the same time, Not good on any of them They all use the same settings, can't find the way to copy/past all settings from cura and I'm shure, the settings I'll give you will not be relevant ^^ I'll just say 100% infill, 70mm/s speed, 6.5mm restractation. merci beaucoup !
  20. Good morning, I work for a local Makerspace where we do a lot of prototyping for new product ideas, and so far I have enjoyed the Ultimaker 3. Were looking to use some of our non-ultimaker material in some prototyping projects, and as capable as this >$4000 printer is, it seems top lack a basic feature? I can't seem to find anywhere how or where to input custom materials, like our Ultimaker 2+s can. The default profiles aren't always optimal (or sometimes just don't work) with different variations of a material. Our Nylon (PA 12) does not work very well with the Nyl
  21. Hi everyone, I am pretty new to 3D printing. I am using nylon and at first it printed well, but now I'm getting a lot of stringing. I bought a polybox and I have dried the nylon to prevent moisture from being an issue. I also increased retraction distance and speed while reducing the print temperature. What else can I do to improve my prints. Also when I go to dissolve the PVA the thin walled sections are warped. Is that because it shouldn't sit in water for a while? Can it still absorb water after its printed?
  22. We need to make some pieces for our laboratory that can be cleaned with organic solvents. Where can I find truthful information about the resistance of the various filaments to these solvents? The ideal would be in Nylon but we need to know if we can use other materials easier to print than Nylon. We have printed on Nylon but it still gives us warping problems. We print it in the UM3Extended. It has a door and lid and we pre-dry the Nylon and the PVA in the stove at 60º. During printing we cover the printer with a thermal blanket to avoid currents and temperature changes. Thanks in advance
  23. Hello, I was trying to print something when I noticed that CURA couldn't seem to decide between wall or infill for the first few layers, which led to many unnecessary retractions and movements during the print, and probably added some time to it, as well as making the bottom looks a bit ugly. Here's the picture, with the arrows pointing at the strange problem. I'm guessing it has to do with the thickness of the part, but I'm not too sure how I could fix that to have a nice wall. Note: this isn't something I designed myself, it's a part I was giv
  24. Hi people, I was happy to buy an Ultimaker 3 Extended last week, with the 0.4 mm print heads. I also bought a 750 g spool of transparent Ultimaker Nylon. I use the latest Cura 3.2.1 (which is super slow on Windows 10, by the way), and also updated the printer's firmware. But since then I run into a number of issues. Firstly, I tried printing the Ultibot design that came with the provided USB stick (so, default parameters), using the supplied PLA and PVA. PVA was extruding well from the BB head, but PLA was not from the AA head. Then, I switched to nylon. This worked well with PVA. So, I d
  25. I've been printing with colorFabb's new PA-CF Low Warp material recently to understand it's potential for strong, end-use parts, and to understand the settings required to get the best result. These two prints are produced using it, the lever is a direct copy of one of the "showcase" prints used by MarkForged to show what their printers are capable of (I believe it's a Ducati brake lever) which I produced so that I could compare a UM-produced "composite" print vs the MarkForged version. The connecting pipe is my own design with a few elements of Design for Additive Manufacturing (
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