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  1. Hi, i printed these Benchys on U3+, the left one is printed from Ultimaker Nylon and right one from Ultimaker ABS, both on stock cura 2.70 settings, can you help me getting rid of this "scratches" ?
  2. Guten Tag, bei Cura lässt sich ja die First Layer Temperatur des Druckbetts einstellen. Gibt es auch eine Möglichkeit mithilfe des Slices das selbe z.B. für die ersten 3 oder 5 Schichten zu machen? Vielen Dank schonmal im vorraus 🙂
  3. Hallo, welche Druckplatte verwendet Ihr für die Ultimaker Drucker? Momentan verwende ich wie vorgesehen Glasplatten, diese sind eigentlich ganz gut. Letztens habe ich mir den Markforged X7 mal genauer angesehen und ich muss sagen, die Ergebnisses finde ich deutlich besser als die, die ich mit meinen Ultimakern erreiche. Der X7 hat eine andere Druckplatte wie der Ultimaker, mit der der Druck dann eine deutlich gleichmäßigere Optik aufweist. Momentan sieht man bei meinen Drucks die Auflagefläche am Druckbett deutlich, dies ist beim X7 nicht der Fall. Dadurch sieht der Druck dann nicht so hochwertig aus. Ich weiß, ich vergleiche gerade einen 100 000€ Drucker mit meinem 7000€ Gerät, es müsste aber trotzdem möglich sein die gleiche Optik zu erreichen. Vielleicht kann mir jemand etwas weiterhelfen, welche Druckplatte ich da am besten einsetzen kann,... Vielen Dank VG Raphael
  4. Hallo Zusammen, in etwa seit dem neuen Firmware-Update habe ich Probleme mit der Haftung bei Drucken aus PLA und Nylon. Hier biegen sich immer die Ecken hoch, aber der Rest des Drucks bleibt haften... Hat jemand eine Idee wie ich das vermeiden kann? Benutze einen Ultimaker S5 im Pro Bundle.
  5. Hallo, ich habe vor allem beim Druck mit Nylon immer Probleme mit verbrannten Stellen am Druck und kann mir nicht erklären, wo die herkommen. Dies ist aber auch schon bei anderen Materialien wie PLA oder PETG aufgetreten, dort ist es aber nicht immer. Bitte um Hilfe VG Raphael
  6. Ciao, è da un po' di mesi che cerco una soluzione per un ingranaggio testando vari materiali tecnici, come Tough PLA, Durabio, Nylon, Policarbonato e CPE+ finalmente ho trovato una soluzione perché il doppio ingranaggio si rompeva sempre nella parte più piccola, ma ho dovuto fare un mix tra la stampa 3D e un altro ingranaggio in acciaio. La stamapante che sto usando è una ultimaker S5, non ho provato con materiali caricati perché attualmente non ho l'ugetto C-C necessario per quei materiali. In questo video trovate i vari test. https://youtu.be/WH3fH85vcqo Saluti Marco
  7. Bonjour tout le monde, Je souhaiterai être sûr de ce que j'ai lu: On dit que la température de transition vitreuse est le fait de passer d'un état caoutchouteux à un état solide. On dit que la température de fusion est le fait de passer à un état solide à un état liquide. Donc, si je regarde la fiche du Nylon Ultimaker, il est dit que la transition vitreuse est de 50° et que la fusion est de 185-195. Concrètement, cela veut-il dire que la matière se durcit à partir de 50°C et qu'elle commence à se déformer si exposée à minimum 185°C ? Ais-je bien interprété ce qu'il est dit ?
  8. Hello, It has been a week that i am trying to print with the ultimaker Nylon black and after 5-6 layers of printing it stop and display the error 15 on the Um3E and 31 on the S5.(I use the ultimaker profile for the Black Nylon in cura) I tried on 2 different S5 and 2 different UM3E multiples times and it always display an error. I already tried to decrease the temperature of the core but it didn't work. Any suggestion?
  9. I'm still fairly new to this but I've started printing with Nylon for some pieces. I'm using Ultimaker Nylon (natural) using the default profile--typically at .1mm, sometimes at .15mm layers (AA 0.4 printcore). I get a lot of thick strings/nubs on the parts whether I'm printing with or without support material and whether using PVA or Breakaway support. I also notice occasionally a brown color to the nylon--often on the prime blob. I thought I might be printing too hot, though the standard template for .1mm layers uses 245C. Last night I printed a temperature tower running from 255 - 220 in 5 degree steps. 255-240 printed successfully--but with lots of the thick strings. 235 started to print but broke off midway through the layer and then it was just a cloud of filament-on-air... So definitely cannot print below 240 degrees :) The top of the anvil is where the 235 section broke off. I'm not worried about that. It's all of the thick strings throughout the tower. It's a little hard to read the temps, but they are 240, 245, 250, and 255 top-to-bottom. Also notice in the overhangs you can see some of the brown discoloration at several levels. These nubs have to be cut off which is a pain especially on some threaded parts. They also often get embedded in support material and vice versa. Breakaway tends to like making little curly cues that break off or get embedded in the part material. Do I need to play with retraction? More/less cooling? I keep my filament in a dry box except when printing (planning to make a print-from-dry-box setup) but as you can see from the brim, the filament goes down nice and clear. I saw some other posts talking about oozing between material changes, but I get the same issues whether I use a prime tower or not, and of course the temperature tower was printed by itself with no support.
  10. Hello! I was curious if any of you run nylon on your machines and have had issues with stringing. Nylon in the past has run really well on my machine. I dry it out beforehand and have a makeshift enclosure for it. I've played with dropping the nylon temp down to 240, upping the retraction distance slowly to 8.5 and also the speed slowly up to 35. None of that really seems to work unless I've been pulling too many levers here. Any suggestions welcome. Thank you in advance. (BTW, there is no warp to the part in this picture, this was just me pulling up on the corner).
  11. Hello, For the future use of an UMS5 I have a question about printing small cylindrical pins in nylon of D2 x 20mm which schould later fits in 2mm holes in a nylon part. Should the pins be printed in vertikal or horizontal orientation in the printer/cura? For a smooth fitting, how much thinner should be the diameter of the pin? For example 1.95 mm for a 2mm hole? Or less? The pins should be pused in with medium power and should not fall out on its own. Regards Hans-Peter
  12. Hello, I am new to Ultimaker and 3D-Printing. I am interested in Nylon/pva printing. I read a lot here about problems with filament drying and moisture protection. There are solutions like Polybox from Polymaker. But when using that,the original filament holder is unused. No use of NFC- filament detection. So wouldn't it be better to build a cover that is attached to the S5 back. It would contain a silicea pack and would hold the spools dry in their original positions. By the way: For the price of an S5 it would even nicer if Ultimaker build such filament cabinet into the S5 unit. Regards Hans-Peter
  13. Hi friends, I have a question. If I print many components with different Print Sequences (all at once order one at a time), will it affect the quality of the product, such as mechanical properties? Thank you
  14. I'm running a Rostock with NyloX(carbon). My parts are designed in Fusion 360 then exported directly to Cura (Fusion has a thing that opens cura and inserts the part so it's the correct scale). My part's outside dimensions are small and the holes are small. Horizontal Expansion can make either the holes the correct size or the part the correct size, but not both, at the same time. What is the best method for sizing both. At the moment I'm giving the Horiz Exp a (1) value then adjusting my model holes larger in Fusion, by a percentage, based on hole size. Does anybody have a better way to accomplish this?
  15. Hi guys, New to the forum. So I have an UMS5 and I'm working on a prototype that needs to be printed in Nylon (I think). I'm looking for something heat (100 deg f) and salt water resistant that will get a bunch of direct sunlight, I figured Nylon might be a good solution. I read that Nylon should be printed on a glue layer to keep from the nylon sticking to the glass an possibly causing chips in the glass? I've found glue sticks messy to apply and hard to apply evenly. I've previously used Aquanet/Hairspray on an older printer, but before I go spraying my beautiful glass bed with hairspray I thought I'd ask the forum if anyone's been using Hairspray instead of Glue with Nylon prints on their S5? Any comments/feedback would be appreciated. Thanks for participating in the forum and helping the community as well as UM users like myself. DR
  16. Hello Everyone:) My NYLON and PVA are showing signs of moisture absorption (crackling sound when printing and bubbles) My current room humidity measures 45- 50% One thing still not clear is what is the Humidity % required to print PVA and Nylon (hygroscopic materials) without absorbing humidity ? On ultimaker website it seems to be written upto 50% is okay. but polymaker seems to say less than 15% humidity is required to print. I store both my materials in airtight box with lots of silica. I have attached photos of the same. http://www.3dtechsupplies.com.au/News/polybox-in-action-how-does-polymakers-dry-printing-and-storage-solution-perform https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52602-material-handling-and-storage What is the best option to print with my current humidity % (45-50%): ? Option1: Bake Nylon and PVA on the ultimaker 3 heatbed at 55 deg for few hours before hand when printing. and later keep it in the airtight box with silica. Option2: Make a carboard box with a lots of silica in it and put it on the ultimaker spools and stick it leaving 2 holes for material to feed into the feeder. ( I have made this for time being for some urgent prints. Option3: cover the whole printer with a huge box so that minimum air goes inside and put lot of silica inside. Option 4: Buy Poly box (drybox) for Nylon and PVA, But it will disable NFC feature and create other extrusion problems because of travel from poly box to feeder.( i read in posts) Please suggest best solution to this problem.
  17. Hallo Freunde des 3D-Druck, ich bin neu hier, nicht im 3D-Druck aber seit kurzem Besitzer eines Ultimaker Original Plus. Ich habe das Problem das wenn ich Nylon Drucke überall am Hotend Material austritt. Ich habe schon alles festgezogen, jedoch ohne Erfolg, und hoffe das hier jemand mir Tipps geben kann wie ich das Problem beseitigen kann. Vielen Dank. Grüße Sebastian von 3D ProtoPrint
  18. I am printing a fairly basic part in Nylon, and the final dimensions are very inaccurate in X and Y directions. For outer dimensions, the part is 0.3mm too big in X Y, for inner dimensions (hole in the XY plane) it is 0.7mm(!). When compensating with negative "horizontal expansion", the inner hole cuts into the wall in layer view at -0.35, so I have to compensate this in the CAD file... this is not a viable long-term solution! Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this in Cura? Also, the default UM material profiles in Cura generally seem to be rather unrefined and crude, judging from my experience - see the recent thread on CPE issues. When paying this amount of money for a machine, I expect much more, honestly - especially when seeing what quality for example a Prusa i3 for nearly 1/10 the price is capable of. If Ultimaker is serious about gaining industrial customers in the long term (and who else, apart from wealthy hobbyists, will pay ~6500€ for a FDM printer?), they really have to offer a solution that works without endless tinkering. On the positive side, at least in Z direction the accuracy is good so far.
  19. My goal was to print a part in nylon with a TPU overmolding. It seems like there's no way to set this up in Cura. When I open a STL file that has two bodies, they are not recognized as such and there's no way to assign an extruder to a body independently of the other. If I open two STL files, their position in space relative to one another is not respected. I can move one body to try to get it near where I want (after I discovered the option to disable "Automatically drop models to the build plate") but it's not precise, especially with Cura's display and perspective view.
  20. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  21. Guten Morgen! Wie lagert Ihr empfindliches Filament wie Nylon und PVA? Wir haben anscheinend massive Probleme mit Feuchtigkeit. Bisher wurden die Rollen nach dem Drucken in Beuteln mit kleinem Salztütchen gelagert, aber das reicht anscheinend nicht ganz aus. Gruß Andy
  22. Hello All, In need of some serious help. Please let me know if i should split this into multiple threads. I recently started 3D printing with my Ultimaker 3 Ex and I have ran into quite a few issues with my first few prints. The first issue was when I tried printing with PVA support. The result is on the first few pictures attached. My assumption was a plugged nozzle so I cleaned everything and when on to try a different print. This was the second one attached which I aborted about 10-20% of the way through due to what I am assuming is either underextrusion or some other issue causing the PVA to not attach to itself. Both of these were done with a 0.4AA Nozzle and 0.2 Layer Height. I then decided to attempt the same prints again (Both the first and the second one). But run a test on Nylon support with it, I also wanted to try a quicker print so I went with a 0.8AA Nozzle and 0.4 Layer height. I know these are a lot of changes but I am really trying to learn my way around ideal centerlines through cause and effect. Even though it maintained most of its structural integrity this print had quite a few issue's which I dont fully understand. I attached pictures of this last print. It looks like overextrusion or mistakes, leaving a substantial amount of material around and a less than desirable general quality of print. Im at a loss on what I am doing wrong or what I am missing for all these prints. Any kind of help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks a ton.
  23. I am planning to feed the double extrusion of a Ultimaker 3 (in the process of being purchased for an educational project I am participating to) with a PLA filament and an elastic one. For the latter, I am not sure how elastic a nylon filament would be, it surely deserves a try, but I should like to try Kyotoflex as well: http://treedfilaments.com/3d-printing-filaments/kyotoflex/. Is this compatible with the subject printer? If so, is there any special care to be taken to get satisfactory result? Thanks in advance for any help.
  24. After getting sick and tired of warping ABS I finally chucked it out the window put it in the bottom drawer. So I built a little desiccant box, popped my Nylon spool in, and set out printing. It's very strong, with little to no warping on all but the largest parts. However one persistent and regular issue is that near one corner of the print (though not wholly confined to there) appears large stringing/burls. Edit: Some additional observations, it appears the plastic making up the burs drips out of the nozzle while the printer switches filaments and is printing supports. What can I do in Cura to change this? The pictures attached are of the aforementioned corner of the print where the problem is. Feel free to ignore the PVA (two different support settings were used, hence one print's support has a bulge and the other doesn't) and folded-back brim.
  25. For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
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