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Found 21 results

  1. Ciao, è da un po' di mesi che cerco una soluzione per un ingranaggio testando vari materiali tecnici, come Tough PLA, Durabio, Nylon, Policarbonato e CPE+ finalmente ho trovato una soluzione perché il doppio ingranaggio si rompeva sempre nella parte più piccola, ma ho dovuto fare un mix tra la stampa 3D e un altro ingranaggio in acciaio. La stamapante che sto usando è una ultimaker S5, non ho provato con materiali caricati perché attualmente non ho l'ugetto C-C necessario per quei materiali. In questo video trovate i vari test. https://youtu.be/WH3fH85vcqo Saluti Marco
  2. Bonjour tout le monde, Je souhaiterai être sûr de ce que j'ai lu: On dit que la température de transition vitreuse est le fait de passer d'un état caoutchouteux à un état solide. On dit que la température de fusion est le fait de passer à un état solide à un état liquide. Donc, si je regarde la fiche du Nylon Ultimaker, il est dit que la transition vitreuse est de 50° et que la fusion est de 185-195. Concrètement, cela veut-il dire que la matière se durcit à partir de 50°C et qu'elle commence à se déformer si exposée à minimum 185°C ? Ais-je bien interprét
  3. Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe t
  4. Hallo zusammen, ich benutze Cura (appimage, 4.2.1) seit Monaten auf einem Linux-PC (mit zugegeben schon etwas älterem openSUSE 13.1) ausgiebig ohne jede Probleme. Gerade eben wie aus heiterem Himmel friert der PC nach Start des appimage jedesmal ein (mehrmals probiert). D.h., das kleine cura-Fenster (mit dem Ultimaker-Roboter) erscheint in der Bildschirmmitte, wie üblich, sobald es verschwindet und dem "normalen" Cura-Fenster Platz macht, wird der Bildschirm kurz schwarz, dann wieder normal, es ist aber ab da keine Eingabe möglich, weder per Tastatur noch Maus. Es hilft
  5. Yesterday I printed some easy file from my computer (of 5 hours print), but cura crashed in the middle of the print (I was doing many things on the pc at this moment), so I decided to export the gcode on the microSD card and then print it directly on the printer. But this time the print quality was really poor and the infill way worse and more dense than it was meant to, see the comparison between it on the photo (on bottom this is the print of the pc). My motherboard is some cheap one of anet, so I think it's the reason of it, don't you think ? Or is there another reason that I didn't think
  6. I've been doing some research in polycarbonate for printing as I'm experimenting with different materials. Having read quite a few websites giving advice on PC printing there seems to be a lot of recommendations to print at a minimum temperature of 290°C, however after loading it into my printer the default Cura profile is set to 280°C. From my first print 280°C has definitely given good results but it makes me wonder whether there are any benefits to increasing the temperature? Is it a characteristic of Ultimaker PC to print at a lower temperature and print at 290°C or higher for
  7. Hello, I print with an UM2+ printer for 2 years and I have never tried to bond two different PC printed parts. Once I tried PLA parts to bond with Pattex glue and the result was not that satisfying. Is there anybody tried to bond two PC parts and succeeded?
  8. Hey UM Team, I have a help request that I cant seem to get corrected. Recently when I try to print a part ( Cam - part for a manufacturing operation ) that I had previously printed successfully I get a grooves on my layers. Picture 1 shows the issue during print. Picture 2 shows a comparison of the same model printed previously with success. Picture 3 shows the part that was printing together with the failed part (You can see it in the back of the first picture). This part had no issues like the one Im having issues with. Picture 4 is a close up of the fa
  9. Hi guys, my 2-month-old Ultimaker has just killed itself by extruding tons of polycarbonate above the rubber seal into the chamber that holds the two extruders. Looks like this: https://imgur.com/a/Prj3M https://imgur.com/a/evaKv https://imgur.com/a/4VZli How can I fix this?? And how can I prevent it in the future? Details on what happened: -The print went fine for the first 8 layers, then I left it. It was going to take 15 hours to complete -What remained of the print showed a bit of warpage up from the brim, perhaps causing it to separate from the brim. Also, a few layers were shi
  10. i just bought a tevo tornado printer , i set it up and it ran like a charm at first, But after the second print my extruder will only print the thinnest layers you can imagine and then prints in the air. I checked my code, the layer hight did not change. i checked the motor that feeds filament into the hot end. works fine. I took the hot end apart and clean out the filament, i could almost breathe through it. when i push the filament back in and push it in manually comes out just fine. only when i print do i run into this issue.
  11. Hi, I got a problem with the API. I registered my application, got my id+key and verified it with the the proper API commands (Timestamps differ!). After that I wanted to change the LED Color like in the "Inside the Ultimaker 3 - Day 3 - Remote access (part 2)". So I tried {"brightness": 120.0, "saturation": 100.0, "hue": 100.0} even if the "Example Value" said "value" instead of brightness. (Postman API call returned (/printer/led) returned "brightness") The problem was that the color didn't change. Reboot. Again nothing.
  12. Hello everyone, I need to print 10 small parts on the same build plate and before I start printing them I would like to know if any of you has any tips to give me especially about the setting for the Z hopping. I am using an Ultimaker 3 printer Material is the Ultimaker PC in white The picture of the product is attached. I am looking forward to hearing from you guys :) Thank you in advance. Fulvio
  13. I have used PC in my UM3 for functional prototypes and it works very well. I am now trying CPE+ and it too is working well also. I am just wondering what the difference in strength is between the two materials. I have the data sheets and understand them, but can anyone tell me (from experience) which material is stronger? Again, this is just because I am curious and can not find an answer about this anywhere. Both materials are working well for me so far and both break after too much abuse. The picture attached is a section view of part of a product that mou
  14. Hi. I'm considering purchasing an S5 for work. For security reasons, our IA Department will not allow connections via Wi-Fi or the use of USB flash ("thumb") drives to transfer g-code from the PC to the printer. I understand that the S5 cannot be connected to a PC via a USB cable for control or file transfer. This would appear to constrain my options to using a USB external hard drive or an Ethernet LAN cable connection between the S5 and the PC. Can anyone tell me if either of these remaining options would work... or if there's an alternate approach? And if
  15. I want to "abort" (pause & restart) a print. So I tried to set a state (PUT /print_job/state) on the WebGUI. But it doesn't stop (Yes, I'm successfully authenticated since I started the job) If I put "abort" (with quotation) in the box and click "Try out" the response is: { "message": "'str' object has no attribute 'get'" } If I send abort, the response is: { "message": "400: Bad Request" } Which command do I have to "send" to the printer, to abort/pause/print and how is the formatting? Thank you! ?
  16. bonjour un expert peut il me guider dans les bonnes pratiques du radeau. j'utilise les réglages par défaut du radeau et je galère a le retirer sur les surfaces en contact avec le pièce imprimée. avant de faire varier les nombreux paramètres du radeau (nombre de couche, lame d'air, chevauchement, largeur de ligne, épaisseur .....), avez vous des conseils de base ? merci
  17. For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  18. Hey everyone, I am an Ultimaker 2+ user for about 8 months and I have had many successfull prints which are challenging for me. Nowadays I need to have a porous and smooth surface (as shown in the picture) and also I want the structure to be as strong as possible. Hope I can get this using PC or ABS as material, PLA is the last choice (I also think that Colorfabb xt-CF20 carbon fiber would fit requirements, I haven't tried but I will). I had an extended research on it and see that it can be achieved using extreme printers like costing hundreds of thousands of euros (Which I don't f
  19. Well, if it ain't been fun LOL OK....I see some posts every now and then about materials not behaving. Well, what behaves in one scenario will not always hold true. There are many factors that can play into things: Environmental Changes Batch differences How one printer handles varying brands of the 'same' material Possible material 'recipe' changes over time I have been working on an articulating model for a client that I did some animation for. I prototyped in PLA because I gots boat loads of the stuff. I switched over to PC to make my final product for strength purposes. I am u
  20. Hello, The part above is my first more or less successful print with polycarbonate. This is part of a Yeti mug cap for a friend. While the part is useable, it just barely made it. This is printed from Gizmo Dork PC, on my UM2+. On the first couple of attempts I tried using glue stick on the glass with no success; I would normally abort the print after 15 seconds. I then went to ABS juice, which seems to hold onto the PC pretty good. The first attempt with juice did not have a brim and about half way through it was warping so bad that I again aborted the print. On the print shown here
  21. I have a spool of PC material, black, that was purchased recently. It was not recognized by the printer (maybe old spool?) and had some odd behaviour. It was a simplified dolphin I made for a larger project. I wanted the PC because of the strength and ability to really grind on it when sanding and finishing/polishing. I did a test print at 0.2MM and it seemed fine. When I tried to take it down to 0.1mm it failed a lot. It seemed that the support (Raft and supports were PC) structure was not sticking to the raft. Just a lot of dragging around and spaghetti all over the place. I finally got it
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