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Found 13 results

  1. Hi guys, my 2-month-old Ultimaker has just killed itself by extruding tons of polycarbonate above the rubber seal into the chamber that holds the two extruders. Looks like this: https://imgur.com/a/Prj3M https://imgur.com/a/evaKv https://imgur.com/a/4VZli How can I fix this?? And how can I prevent it in the future? Details on what happened: -The print went fine for the first 8 layers, then I left it. It was going to take 15 hours to complete -What remained of the print showed a bit of warpage up from the brim, perhaps causing it to separate from the brim. Also, a few layers were shifted, so may be it got knocked off the brim from this layer shift. -What remained of the "print" had come clean off the bed and fallen to the bottom of the printer. -And, as you can see, the printer extruded so much polycarbonate into its chamber that it forced the door open, pushing the door into the print bed so hard that the y axis rod got forced out of its plastic holders! ;'( Details on print settings: -Printed polycarbonate filament at 275°C in a HardCore Solex, and Airwolf Hydrofill support material (great stuff BTW) in a BB 0.4mm. I'd made small parts with this combination before and was really impressed with the quality. -I'd never changed the nozzle on the Solex, so it's not like I didnt' tighten it down enough and let plastic leak past the nozzle or something. -Bed was at 115°C, and I used the plastic front door from the "advanced printing kit" (super overpriced BTW :(). Didn't cover the top of the printer, though maybe I should have. -I used blue PEI coating from FlashForge printers over glass, and the polycarbonate raft stuck super well to that. -I used a raft with 0mm airgap and 0mm z overlap after first layer for maximum adhesion between support and brim. -There was a 0mm z gap between dissolvable support and polycarbonate. The support and printed objects stuck super well. (Support to raft: not so much, despite having a 0mm gap. WTF?). -I printed with auto-level on, and anyways the first 8 layers were done perfectly, so there shouldn't have been any problems with the lifting mechanism for the support head. -Layer height 0.15mm, print speed 40mm/s
  2. 3Dprint_everthing

    printer prints layers too thin

    i just bought a tevo tornado printer , i set it up and it ran like a charm at first, But after the second print my extruder will only print the thinnest layers you can imagine and then prints in the air. I checked my code, the layer hight did not change. i checked the motor that feeds filament into the hot end. works fine. I took the hot end apart and clean out the filament, i could almost breathe through it. when i push the filament back in and push it in manually comes out just fine. only when i print do i run into this issue.
  3. Hello everyone, I need to print 10 small parts on the same build plate and before I start printing them I would like to know if any of you has any tips to give me especially about the setting for the Z hopping. I am using an Ultimaker 3 printer Material is the Ultimaker PC in white The picture of the product is attached. I am looking forward to hearing from you guys :) Thank you in advance. Fulvio
  4. JstWantoRide

    CPE+ vs PC for functional prototypes

    I have used PC in my UM3 for functional prototypes and it works very well. I am now trying CPE+ and it too is working well also. I am just wondering what the difference in strength is between the two materials. I have the data sheets and understand them, but can anyone tell me (from experience) which material is stronger? Again, this is just because I am curious and can not find an answer about this anywhere. Both materials are working well for me so far and both break after too much abuse. The picture attached is a section view of part of a product that mounts a cell phone to handlebars.
  5. GBuchwitz

    S5 Connection Options

    Hi. I'm considering purchasing an S5 for work. For security reasons, our IA Department will not allow connections via Wi-Fi or the use of USB flash ("thumb") drives to transfer g-code from the PC to the printer. I understand that the S5 cannot be connected to a PC via a USB cable for control or file transfer. This would appear to constrain my options to using a USB external hard drive or an Ethernet LAN cable connection between the S5 and the PC. Can anyone tell me if either of these remaining options would work... or if there's an alternate approach? And if the LAN option would work, precisely how would that be implemented? Would I need a cross-over CAT5 cable and additional networking software beyond what's already available in Windows 10? I can't afford to buy an S5 only to find out that I have no way to connect to it. Any advice would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks! - guy
  6. Hi, I got a problem with the API. I registered my application, got my id+key and verified it with the the proper API commands (Timestamps differ!). After that I wanted to change the LED Color like in the "Inside the Ultimaker 3 - Day 3 - Remote access (part 2)". So I tried {"brightness": 120.0, "saturation": 100.0, "hue": 100.0} even if the "Example Value" said "value" instead of brightness. (Postman API call returned (/printer/led) returned "brightness") The problem was that the color didn't change. Reboot. Again nothing. I logged up the log after the reboot and found this in the log: Jun 08 06:51:30 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 systemd[1]: Time has been changed Jan 01 00:00:59 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 connmand[254]: ntp: time slew +1528440630.651671 s Jan 01 00:00:53 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 flipflop_wsgi.py[413]: 00:00:53 - WAR - app.libs.printer_api:189 - Failed to set the LED color for printer at http://192.168.0.14/api/v1 ... Jan 01 00:00:43 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 flipflop_wsgi.py[413]: 00:00:43 - WAR - app.libs.printer_api:189 - Failed to set the LED color for printer at http://192.168.0.14/api/v1 Why is the IP different? Or is this just coincidence? The IP changed indeed from 14 to 31, mhhhh Anyway I tried another command, which was also mentioned in the forum post => Changing the name. The example name was "MyUltimaker3", I tried "Ultimaker3" instead. Does anyone got an idea why this is a bad request? Another thing is the old firmware. The log says: Jan 01 00:00:29 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 python3[226]: 1970-01-01 00:00:29,605 INFO systemUpdate Comparing firmware 'stable' old version '4.2.5.20180102' with new version '4.3.2.20180308' with result: False Are these just bugs? (Updating is not that easy.I have to ask for permission, since I'm not alone exploring the device ) P.S: I'm using Firefox 60.0.2 & Postman 6.1.3
  7. I want to "abort" (pause & restart) a print. So I tried to set a state (PUT /print_job/state) on the WebGUI. But it doesn't stop (Yes, I'm successfully authenticated since I started the job) If I put "abort" (with quotation) in the box and click "Try out" the response is: { "message": "'str' object has no attribute 'get'" } If I send abort, the response is: { "message": "400: Bad Request" } Which command do I have to "send" to the printer, to abort/pause/print and how is the formatting? Thank you! ?
  8. francois1

    tuto radeau

    bonjour un expert peut il me guider dans les bonnes pratiques du radeau. j'utilise les réglages par défaut du radeau et je galère a le retirer sur les surfaces en contact avec le pièce imprimée. avant de faire varier les nombreux paramètres du radeau (nombre de couche, lame d'air, chevauchement, largeur de ligne, épaisseur .....), avez vous des conseils de base ? merci
  9. BairdB

    Oven Drying Saftey Concerns

    For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  10. Hey everyone, I am an Ultimaker 2+ user for about 8 months and I have had many successfull prints which are challenging for me. Nowadays I need to have a porous and smooth surface (as shown in the picture) and also I want the structure to be as strong as possible. Hope I can get this using PC or ABS as material, PLA is the last choice (I also think that Colorfabb xt-CF20 carbon fiber would fit requirements, I haven't tried but I will). I had an extended research on it and see that it can be achieved using extreme printers like costing hundreds of thousands of euros (Which I don't find right to share here any trademarks etc.). I really wonder if it is possible to create a surface like this on Ultimaker printers. Is there anyone tried something like this before?
  11. Well, if it ain't been fun LOL OK....I see some posts every now and then about materials not behaving. Well, what behaves in one scenario will not always hold true. There are many factors that can play into things: Environmental Changes Batch differences How one printer handles varying brands of the 'same' material Possible material 'recipe' changes over time I have been working on an articulating model for a client that I did some animation for. I prototyped in PLA because I gots boat loads of the stuff. I switched over to PC to make my final product for strength purposes. I am using Ultimaker Black PC. Now, I did not expect the PLA and PC to have the same tolerances on the side of printing, so this is really about the differences between the PC I printed with before and the PC I have now. I purchased this PC material a few months ago and am just now getting back to using PC. I am also using the print cluster software, even though I am on one printer. Why? Because I can stack jobs of a like kind and just have to be there for when the print is finished to change plates, clean, apply Papa K's Magical Slurry Sauce for stickum and then override the controls to accept the chosen material. I am having to do this even though I have Ultimaker PC. I am thinking I got a batch of PC that did not have the NFC chip on it. It has been dry in NYC and I left my PLA loaded in the polybox and just hung the PC on the spool as designed. Still did not see the PC and had to choose generic. No pops or crackles so the filament is dry. PVA is working well with it too. But, I did have to make a few adjustments on the presets in Cura for the PC settings. I found that the default temp of 107°C was just too much. It really cooked the Slurry Sauce onto the buildplate as well as virtually cemented the PC to the glass....for the most part.... And I was getting some stringing. Please note that I am using a front cover to keep the heat in. So, I had read in another thread about how the buildplate heat can keep the material too soft and allow for warping. I was getting a tiny bit of warping on a few odd places. So, I took the buildplate temp down to 100°C for the first layer and then 95°C from that point on. 90°C and then 80°C was too cold and it would not stick to the plate. It now releases the parts much easier from the buildplate as well as allows the Slurry Sauce to not get cooked so hard. I mean I was having to soak things for hours just to get them to loosen a bit and sometimes, run very warm water over the buildplate for about an hour just to get parts off and finally get off the thin film of Slurry Sauce. I did manage to also put some really bad dings in two of my buildplates (Pitting the glass with large gouges) and this has not happened since the cutback on buildplate temp. Also, I finally wound up with a material setting of 257°C for my Default printing temp and allowed Cura to figure all the rest of the temp settings from there. I had to bounce around a bit to get the right temp. 250° was too cold and did not want to lay down right, even when slowing the printing way down. 260° was still a bit stringy. That 3° made all the difference in the world. Now, I am having no warping and no hassles getting my pieces off the buildplate. I am using a PVA brim, the Slurry Sauce is PVA based and using PVA supports. I am getting clean prints (With this type of design anyway) and other than printing at 0.1mm/100µ and the time it takes, all is now going well. I also had to create a counter weight in one of the pieces because when the crane boom extends, it was throwing the model out of balance. That was fun as I just made a hollow in the model, printed to a point above the nuts I was using for weights, squished some glue into the hole and dropped the nuts in and allowed it to finish the print above it.
  12. RC-modeler

    Polycarb adhesion

    Hello, The part above is my first more or less successful print with polycarbonate. This is part of a Yeti mug cap for a friend. While the part is useable, it just barely made it. This is printed from Gizmo Dork PC, on my UM2+. On the first couple of attempts I tried using glue stick on the glass with no success; I would normally abort the print after 15 seconds. I then went to ABS juice, which seems to hold onto the PC pretty good. The first attempt with juice did not have a brim and about half way through it was warping so bad that I again aborted the print. On the print shown here I added a brim. The part is 2mm thick, so 10 layers, and during the 9th layer I felt pretty confident that this was going to turn out great, it appeared to be held down perfectly. But during the 10th (last) layer I could see that the edge was starting to lift and taking the inner half of the brim with it. As the print finished the outer edge of the brim was still attached to the glass. A few minutes later as the machine cooled down the part warped enough to lift the brim up all the way around. The failure occurs in the bond between the ABS juice and the glass, as the PC and ABS appear to be fused together nicely. So are there any good tricks to get the ABS juice to stick to the glass better? I have thought of trying Kapton tape on the glass, but from what I have read it sounds like the tape will be lifted off the glass. Does anyone know if the commercial products like Wolfbite hold to the glass better? Print settings – 260 deg C extruder, 110 deg C bed, 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layers, 30 mm/sec speed.
  13. kmanstudios

    Weird issue with PC printing

    I have a spool of PC material, black, that was purchased recently. It was not recognized by the printer (maybe old spool?) and had some odd behaviour. It was a simplified dolphin I made for a larger project. I wanted the PC because of the strength and ability to really grind on it when sanding and finishing/polishing. I did a test print at 0.2MM and it seemed fine. When I tried to take it down to 0.1mm it failed a lot. It seemed that the support (Raft and supports were PC) structure was not sticking to the raft. Just a lot of dragging around and spaghetti all over the place. I finally got it to work using PVA (Believe it or not) as the support with a PVA brim. I just made sure that there was a super tiny part of the model that touched the buildplate to help it stay anchored. But the rest of the print is doing ok at this time. In about 2.5 hours I will be putting the other print (second dolphin) on to see if the same PVA thing worked or not. But I did have several consistent failures over the course of 16 hours with the PC Raft and support with the support seeming to not stick to the raft. I did try to slow it down a lot (down to 30mm/s) and increased the temp, lowered the temp, flow increase just made more spaghetti, and a few other things such as rotating the model to affect the amount or size of the supports and playing with support settings. Left my front cover on, took it off, all gave the same result. It did work with the 0.2 mm settings. Not the 0.1mm settings. Same model, same position to start off with. I am scratching my head over this. Any ideas? Edit: Print finished ok and soaking the print off the buildplate. Just now starting second dolphin with same settings. Fingers crossed.....
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