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Found 299 results

  1. groot_w_stand.stlI am trying to print a standing baby groot. Unfortunately, Cura does not generate supports for the fingers on the left hand. I tried using a separate box with "per-model" support settings, but Cura still will not generate supports for the fingers regardless of the angle setting. I have the latest Cura 4.3 slicer. See attached. Thank you for your help! groot_w_stand.stl groot_w_stand.stl
  2. Hi everyone, I bought 2.85mm PLA filament (Brazilian brand), and after printing for hours, everything is going well, but I noticed that during printing the nozzle was printing in the air, far from the piece and no filament extruding. Immediately I stopped printing, I tried to do the normal filament removal procedure, but the filament got stuck. I also tried the printer's Move function, but still the filament got stuck. So I opened Feeder and the filament was "choking" inside. I removed the filament and I did the complete feeder cleaning and also printer maintenance. As you can see in the picture, I cut this filament, and you can see that there is a problem with Feeder Tension. Currently, in Ultimaker 2+ Extended, Feeder tension is exactly in the middle and I had never changed. But for this filament I would need to change the feeder tension. In the same photo, keeping the same tension in the middle and leveling the table, I did a first layer calibration test and then I tried to print a small bust, and as you can see it's completely horrible. I would like to know from you what would be the ideal tension for this filament, the marker is in the middle of the feeder. So I have to put the mark up or down to fix this problem? Would it be clockwise to loosen the tension (raising the marker a little)? If so, how much would I need to loosen? Thank you for your help.
  3. Hi. This is the best stringing test result I've had so far in 2 years. I switched to BMG extruder, tried V6 and Chimera, ptfe lined, all metal, titanium polished bore, high temp PTFE, high rpm 40x40x20 heatsink fan and thermal paste on the heatbreak (it is ambient temp). Estep and Flow are calibrated. I tried all materials from different brands and also tried again drying them. I tried all retraction distance from 0 to 15mm and all speeds from 15mm/s to 80 mm/s and all temps, for PLA from 180 to 230. I even tried coasting and disabling part cooling fan. It didn't make any visible difference. Travel speed is 200mm/s... Any idea on what the hell could the issue be??? Because I am exhaust... It initially was a creality cr10S before all the mods I did trying to solve this.
  4. I recently switched to and E3D v6 on my Ender 3 and I'm running Cura 4.3. I've never had any issues with stringing until now with PLA, but after the switch it took me a while to get the stringing down to an acceptable level (Small hairs that can be blasted with a heat gun). The changes in my other settings I could make sense of such as shorter retractions and slower retract speeds, but what I can't figure out is why I suddenly need Z-hop to get the same results as the stock hotend. Is there something that I may be overlooking in my Cura settings or a difference in the hot ends that require the z-hop? I'll attach my profile below, any input would be greatly appreciated! Ender3ProfileE3DV6.curaprofile
  5. Hi, I've had my printer for about a 2 months now (Ender 3). Oh yes, I know this is an ultimaker form but I sadly can't afford one. I do use cura so I decided to post here. Anyway I've had issues with these odd z layer lines on my prints they always occur at the same place. Image: https://imgur.com/a/EHHjSNB Things I've done so far: 1. I checked to see if my 8mm threaded z axis rod was bent. I sat it on a table and it was every so slightly bent, maybe .07 mm of bend. I find it hard to believe that that could actually cause my issue. 2. I've checked the alignment of my z stepper with the cuppler and rod. No issues there they rod slides in and out with ease when screws are loosened. 3. I checked the alignment of my frame on my machine. Everything is square within .1 of a mm. All screws are tight too. 4. I checked the belts on the x and y axis of the printer. Both are very tight and make a medium pitch sound when plucked like a guitar. 5. I checked my rollers and all rollers are tight but not too tight. I can still manually spin them with my hands. 6. I've checked the tension on the z 8mm threaded rod, the screws are snug but not all the way tightened down. 7. I've tried printing with heat off incase my of any bed heating issues, very minimul improvement. Other info: My z 8mm threaded rod is free floating and does not have a bearing at the top. My only other mods I did was add a bltouch and a 5015 petsfang. I print on glass at 210 degrees for pla. Going back to the z 8mm threaded rod as an ending note here. If I disconnect the z stepper cable and push the x carriage down really fast, I do notice that the top of the z rod wobbles just a little bit. I think I've tried everything here, that's why I'm posting. Could that .07 mm bend in my z rod actually cause the issue I'm seeing. Is that slight wobble actually my issue. If so where could I buy a rod that would be 100% straight unlike the one I have? If I forgot anything please let me know also sorry for any typos or errors. Thanks .
  6. We got a problem with printing a big cilindercal shape (100x100x300mm). In the appendix some picture of the printing and end-result! The build platform is vibrating a lot! About 4 to 5mm on the end of the build platform. We don't have this problem before with other prints. We are printing with PLA at 204 degrees. If you want more information please let me know!
  7. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
  8. I am currently printing with a CR-10 S5 and it keep pausing randomly through out a print. When it does pause it will go to the home axis and will display on the screen ' Print Paused '. Another bug the printer is experiencing is it will have filament errors and pause itself and return to home axis. I can resume the print no problem with these 2 bugs but the point of having this high end printer is to let it keep running unabated. I've been printing with Cura 4.0 and have not changed default settings. Is there a way around thee bugs? Please help.
  9. Hi everyone, Could someone please help me with Ultimaker 2+ Extended settings? I installed Prusa Slicer 2.1.0 and IdeaMaker 3.4.2 on the computer. I don't know specific settings related to Ultimaker 2+ Extended so I can correctly fill in and configure the required fields within both Slicers Prusa Slicer and IdeaMaker. In the attached images you can see what I was able to fill in, but probably something must be wrong. I tried printing using PrusaSlicer with these settings at the image settings, and I had problems. Please, anyone who has or understands the settings of Ultimaker 2+ Extended and knows the correct settings to use within Prusa Slicer 2.1.0 and IdeaMaker 3.4.2 could kindly inform me, so it would not only help me but also would help other people too who would like to have this information. Thank you so much for your attention and help.
  10. Hi all, I have an UM2+ (upgraded from UM2 by previous owner) in addition to 4 other 3D printers, and the Ultimaker is easily the machine that I've used the most. As per the machine stats, 3KM of filament has passed through it. But, I've started having extrusion problems in the last month on files which worked before. The machine just stops extruding, except at very slow print rates. As you can see, the machine hasn't had an easy life and it's probably time to replace some components. That's fine. I've worked through https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/11704-extrusion-problems many times in the printer's life, but it doesn't help this time. So, I've replaced or cleaned quite a lot already, it's still not working properly and I'm not sure what to replace next. What I've already done: * Atomic clean * New PTFE coupler * New PTFE bowden tube * Disassembled, cleaned, reassembled the extruder on the back of the machine, making sure the cogs are all seated correctly. There's little visible wear here, but it's a UM2+ addon, so has only been fitted for a smaller % of the machine's lifetime. Possible next items: 1. New nozzle (I can manually push material through so I don't think it's this) 2. New thermistor 3. New hot-end entirely 4. ??? So, for other long-term UM2+ owners in particular: What would you suggest as the most likely problem? Thanks! Neil
  11. Ok so i've been having this problem for about 2 months now. I've been researching, asking, and getting my hand on it trying to fix it, watching different videos and so on the internet. This is my third post about the same issue on the forums but this time im gonna explain absolutely everything ive tried and what i found out is causing the issue, and maybe with that you might help me solve it. Because i still cant. So i have an ender 3 that i bougth about 2 months ago, first prints were ok, then ive started having underextrusion because of the "combing on skin " option on cura , i solved that and now this happens. I get extremely under extruded layers , wich look to form the exact same patterns. I've printed the same exact model twice and the under extrusion started at the same exact height for both of them. I thought it was a prpblem related with the z axis, but then i noticed something with the extruder was wrong. The extruder knob, with the motor, and everything is working, except for the feeder wheel, wich works intermintently, sometimes it moves inwards when the extruder is extruding and sometimes it just doesnt move. I've tried everything. I've loosen, thighten either the extruder arm, the spring, changed its tension by adding a 1mm print attached next to it, and nothing seemed to work. When i adjusted the bolts of the extruder, the estepper starting slipping and missed steps, also the gear of the extruder started grinding the filament. When i loosen it , the feeder wheel worked intermintently losing extrusion for the print. I've also dismantled it several times to see if theres any clog preventing the extruder to push the filament on the nozzle or something, lowered the heat bed and actually bought more nozzles to replace the older ones with. I've tried as well different profiles and different softwares, different temperatures, different speeds (even at 20mm/s) and about 7 different filaments. None of these worked. I've ordered a metal extruder to replace the stock one with but i need to start printing now, and i just cant seem to make it work ! The tension on the extruder arm is driving me crazy and seems like no mechanical adjust will be capable of solving the problem. Thank you for your time and i really hope you have an advice for me ! Greetings
  12. Guys I need help from the collective once again. I have built my own version of the UM2E+ but for the life of me cannot get one print right yet! The printer is running of of Tinker firmware (kudos to the genius who created it!!!) but problem has persisted over various firmware updates. I have been trying to print calibration cubes sliced with Cura & Repetier but every time I seem to have the same problem (the first layer or 2 come out perfectly). At different stages of the print but normally around the 4-8th layer the printer extrudes a very large blob and then the Z axis drops by 1-2mm or so and continues to try to print. I am running my bed from a separate power supply through a MOSFET and printing PLA+ at 210degC the print speed has also been reduced. As per previous suggestions I have reduced the current to all my motors as I initially thought that the drivers were overheating so my X/Y axis is 1000, Z axis 900 & extruder 1000. I have also changed the extruder motor from a Nema17 x 35mm to a Nema17 45mm @ 0.9 degree steps and have the step count and length completely perfect (had the same problem with both motor versions). I have fitted a large heat sink and forced air fan to all the stepper drivers but nothing has helped, the heat sink doesn't seem to get overly hot. Z axis has also been tweaked to move the correct amount IWO steps/mm etc. Can anyone share some thoughts on what the problem and a possible solution is?
  13. Bisher drucke ich immer Schichten von 0,1 bis 0,2 mm Höhe. Ich kann mich daran erinnern dass ich mit slic3r PE (Prusa Edition) schon einmal erfolgreich 0,05 mm Layerhöhe gedruckt habe. Aktuell nutze ich Cura. Jeder Druckversuch einer Schichthöhe kleiner als 0,1mm endet bei mir mit ein em Fehlschlag, weil die Düse verstopft ist. Sie läßt sich immer Recht einfach wieder frei bekommen (durch einen "hot pull").Mir ist nicht ganz klar woran das liegt. Das Filament sieht nach so einer A kti on imm e r recht ähnlich aus: Man erkennt jeweils, das eine Art Stopfen am unteren Filamentende entsteht. Um ein wenig zu Experimentieren habe ich ein Testszenario erstellt, indem ca. 10 Quadermantel 150x5x6 mm^3 mit ca.0,4mm Wandstärke gedruckt werden sollen. Ich statte sie dann mit identischen Eigenschaften aus und variiere jeweils nur eine Eigenschaft. Z.B.: Druckgeschwindigkeit, Wandstärke, ...? Ich habe schon viel herum probiert, jedoch kommt eigentlich immer das gleiche dabei heraus: Nach hinten nimmt jeweils die Druckgeschwindigkeit ab (von 80mm/s bis 20mm/s) Hier Mal mit etwas Höher Temperatur (215°C): Und hier Mal mit etwas niedrigerer Temperatur (205°C) und ohne Kühlung. Im letzteren Bild sieht man, dass die Layerhaftung deutlich besser ist. das Tape Dreieck war ein Versuch gegen warping was da auftrat. Leider kommt es trotzdem zur verstopften Düse... Möglicherweise hat der verringerte Volumenstrom hier eine Auswirkung, da bei geringerer Layerhöhe ja auch weniger Material extrudiert wird. Eventuell wird das Filament "klumpig", wenn es zu lange erhitzt im Extruder war. Vielleicht wird es auch beim "zu langsamen" Durchlauf durch die Düse von der Kühlung zu stark abgekühlt. Filament ist übrigens vom Hersteller meines Druckers(Prusa i3 MK3): Prusa PLA ... Möglicherweise ist meine Methode auch nicht optimal (, was ich stark bezweifle, da Support und Infill auch nur aus einzelnen Perimeter bestehen!) ... Wie sind so eure Einstellungen, speziell die Beziehung zwischen Volumenstrom(Layerhöhe, Breite und Druckgeschwindigkeit), Drucktemperatur, Kühlung, etc.? Gruß nerd
  14. So this problem actually seems to occur in every print, im wondering why its happening
  15. I am working on a speaker enclosure project and i am running into the issue where on the rendered project in sketchup pro 2017 it looks exactly how id like it to look, The issue is when i put the models in Cura to slice for my printer it keeps adding unnecessary layers internally and externally and i am unable to figure out why they are added into the gcode. I have tried enabling/disabling different settings, none of which change the outcome of the gcode once sliced. Attaching copies of the 3d models and screenshots. When unsliced the smaller part has a "roof" on it, other than the roof, the part is fine and the larger part looks as it should, after slicing it the smaller part looks as it should but the larger part has a "roof", a layer in the middle *reducing air space", and the bottom no longer has the hole. I am still fairly new to 3d modeling and settings for my Ender 3 pro so any advise for improvements to how i design/slice my models would be much appreciated. base of enclosure.obj main body of enclosure.obj top of enclosure.obj
  16. Hello, I just got my new S5 printers, and am having some problems printing with both Ultimaker PLA and PVA. Basically, printing with only PLA works perfect, but when I try to use both, with PVA as support, the print head with PLA attached to it simply prints air, and nothing comes out. Note that I've tried cleaning it with cleaning filament, switching heads, pretty much anything of the basic solutions. When printing only with PLA everything works great, but when using both it just doesn't extrude. In cura I have the correct options: head 1 PLA, head 2 PVA (both pla and pva are Ultimaker), on the printer the same. Anything that comes to mind for my problem? Thanks a lot! Cosmin
  17. Hi! My Ultimaker S5 suddenly started extruding in the left corner and i pulling it back on my print - sometimes it result in a unusable print... It does it the same place, layer by layer. There is nothing there, in my Cura setup. I have set my UMS5 back to factory settings, but it did not help. I have attached pictures of the line that goes trough my print (is . Have anybody else tried this? I cannot find anything similar. Thank you! /Alek UMS5_Form nr 22 - facetteret kugle.3mf
  18. How can the very latest, cutting-edge design software combine with a 5,000 year old manufacturing technique to deliver outstanding weight reduction opportunities? Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts upon the energy usage of the product during it’s service life. Lighter products mean less fuel to move them around, which can make our fossil fuel reserves go further, or make more efficient use of the renewable energies that we’re now beginning to adopt. Generative Design (GD) is the very latest design software released by Autodesk and is now included in Fusion 360, which is at the heart of their "Future of Making Things" strategy for Design and Manufacturing. It changes the way we design things and can deliver very efficient designs that deliver structural performance with optimised use of material. The aerospace industry is expected to be one of the early adopters of this technology because in that industry the cost and environmental savings from improved fuel efficiency carry the greatest rewards. Also, I see interest from the automotive industry for the same fuel efficiency reasons, but in the long term the drive for lighter weight parts could benefit many industries, even those outside of transportation. Another example of the benefits of lighter weight alongside reduced material usage is that shipping costs for parts reduce as their weight reduces, which can therefore also deliver cost efficiencies. GD is targeted initially at metal parts where the biggest opportunity for light-weighting exists. The complex forms it generates though often means that parts conceived in this way cannot be made with conventional manufacturing routes. They therefore need to use Additive Manufacturing (AM) techniques to produce them. The route of using high energy, laser-based AM to do this comes with associated high costs because of the specialised set-up knowledge required together with expensive processing, and post processing, to deliver a quality-assured part. This project explores the possibility of a more cost-effective route to a metal GD part which, even though at this stage may be just used for a small quantity of evaluation prototypes, can act as an enabler for understanding the potential that GD has to offer. This is the baseline design for this project. It is an aluminium bracket design similar to those used in aerospace applications to mount control surfaces, and in this form has not been optimised for weight. This design would weigh 383 grams in the intended material, aluminium A356. After processing this through Generative Design in Fusion 360 it’s time to review and evaluate the many alternative design options presented and decide upon the design that is considered the most appropriate taking into the other factors that have an influence on design selection such as manufacturability, aesthetics etc. This was the design option chosen for this part and Fusion 360 was used to create the final version of the model. The bio-mimicry that’s evident in most of the designs created by GD is interesting to see, in this case the design of the part can be seen as essentially a swept I-beam (which engineers, especially those in construction, are taught is a strong section), but with tendon-like attachments back to the mounting points to carry the tensile loading that’s created by the applied loading conditions What GD does is to turn the standard design workflow that we’re familiar with on it’s head. Traditionally we design a part and then stress test it virtually to determine if it fulfils the required structural performance. Any failures seen during this process require an iterative loop back to the design to correct them. With GD the stress analysis is a core part of the design synthesis, and happens as the part design iterates, which means that the output at the end should meet the requirements of the intended loading requirements. The software is searching for an optimal solution where the stress is ideally evenly distributed across the part as can be seen above. To prove that everything is good with the finalised design this part has then been virtually tested again in Fusion 360 to confirm that the original loading requirements are still met So we've created our lightweight part design, and maybe now we need to produce that in aluminium A356 to do some physical testing, but don’t want the expense of using a metal AM process. What follows is a way of achieving this where FDM 3D printing can play a role as an “enabler” to help create the final parts in conjunction with a very old (if not ancient) manufacturing technique called investment casting. This technique is 5,000 years old according to Wikipedia. The company involved with casting this project is Sylatech who have been using Ultimaker 3D printers as part of their process for investment casting of prototype parts Sylatech took the .stl file of this model and used it to create a 3D print of the part on an Ultimaker 3 in PLA. This PLA part was then used as the pattern in the investment casting process where it is submerged in plaster under vacuum conditions to ensure that all air is excluded from the mould and creates an accurate reproduction of the surfaces of the part. The picture below shows a display box which demonstrates the set up of the 3D printed parts partially encased in plaster. Once the plaster has hardened the casting box is put into a furnace at very high temperature in order to burn out the PLA, leaving behind a cavity into which molten aluminium can be cast. After solidification of the metal, and cooling of the mould, the plaster is broken away from the parts, and then they can be quickly and easily removed from the material feed gate resulting in these aluminium A356 versions of the PLA original. The final part weighs 122 grams which is a weight saving of 68% over the original baseline part, which shows the potential that GD has to make significant reductions in weight and material usage. Using this method we now we have an excellent quality physical part made very quickly in the final intended material in order to commence some physical testing.This is a different route to get to that physical test part in metal at a fraction of the cost of having it metal additively manufactured. It also shows how a brand new, cutting edge piece of software that only became available in May 2018 can combine with FDM 3D printing (which many people still see as a new technology even though it’s been around for over 20 years) and a 5,000 year old manufacturing technique to deliver potentially huge benefits in weight and material usage. Using the investment casting route in this case study is why I chose the title for this article, and shows that we can effectively go “Back To (Deliver) The Future”. Do you see the need for lighter weight parts in what you do, and can you see the potential benefits of using Generative Design and this method of producing metal parts? I'd welcome comments, suggestions, and discussion about any aspects of the above article, the next steps that I'm looking at are how this process could scale up to batch production of the parts using 3D printing techniques that could support low volume production quantities
  19. Hi! My Ultimaker S5 suddenly started extruding in the left corner and i pulling it back on my print - sometimes it result in a unusable print... It does it the same place, layer by layer. There is nothing there, in my Cura setup. I have set my UMS5 back to factory settings, but it did not help. I have attached pictures of the line that goes trough my print (is . Have anybody else tried this? I cannot find anything similar. Thank you! /Alek
  20. My ultimaker 2 prints fine up to last few layers PLA. Then suddenly it starts to print in random directions and the bed forces the printed part into the printhead and destroys the printed part. This happens with all the things i have printed recently. Please help ASAP Thank you
  21. Bonjour, Je débute sur cura car je vien d'acheter une imprimante Creality Ender3x, je travail avec archicad 22 puis j'exporte mon fichier au format STL, Je cherche à imprimer une maquette au 1/500e quand j'ouvre mon fichier STL mon modèle reste creux dans les espaces intérieurs ce qui est normale, mais mon souci ce trouve au niveau des fenêtres qui ont des parois trop fine et qui ne peuvent par être imprimé. Y aurait-il un moyen d'épaissir interieur du modèle voir de l'imprimer comme un volume plein? Merci d'avance pour vos réponses
  22. Hi there, I am experiencing some dual extrusion issues. For some reason, my printer won't print my second material on the brim. In Cura, it shows under the preview tab that it will print the second material on the brim, but the actual print shows up without the second material on the brim. I attached a couple pictures. I just wanted to test the dual extrusion capabilities on my UMS5. The red PLA was my first material and the black PLA is my second material. As you can see from the pictures, the black PLA doesn't print out in the brim. Also, I'm not sure why the red side with the black circle came out clean whereas the black side with the red circle came out stringy. If anyone knows why these things are happening please let me know. Thank you!
  23. Hello everyone, I am having trouble with some strange underextrusion. In some prints, maybe 1 out of 10 and in only certain parts, the PLA is extruded in little pulses that increase in frequency untill they turn into a smooth line. This always happens at the beginning of a new layer, after z-hop and retraction. Due to this the print is massively weakened at these parts and shows striations on the surface. I managed to capture this on video and also have a picture of it, but I have no idea what could be causing this, especially because it only shows up every now and then. I would be very grateful for tips and help regarding the issue. Here is the link to the video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7 Thank you very much! [edit by gr5: note solution was found by the original poster - see 2 message far below by author with "heart"/like icon]
  24. PLA. small object but still there's some serious wrapping. 190C at 60mm/s. Fan is at 100% and are working. other settings are more or less using default CURA fine print with skirt. What more can I do improve the print?
  25. So i just got my printer 2 weeks ago and it did a pretty good job on the first prints i've done, wich they were quite small. I started printing larger things a few days ago, wich it was what i bought the print for. And i seem to get this kind of under extrusion problem in some parts of the print, only at certain hights, because as you can see in the image it kinds of corrects itself in the next hights any guesses on how to fix this problem? ive read that it might be a problem of the retraction being set too high, but i dont think it might be that
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