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  1. Hi, I had problems printing 2 parts at the same time so I made them print one and then the other. I left, because I had to go shopping for food, and when I came back, one model was nice done ( the first one), but the other was stuck to the print bed like crazy and when I removed it and measured it with calipers in the Z direction, the second model was about 3mm lower than the other and the ultrabase below it was all scratched up and the nozzle will probably need itself being replaced. From what I saw I can surely say that something (probably cura) made the second print start 3mm below the bed level, resulting in my bed being destroyed, luckily on almost the very edge. I had it leveled and when I checked the bed screws, none were loose. Leveling the bed afterwards wasn't necessary, the bed was completely leveled and the distance between the bed and the nozzle was the same everywhere, just the very tip of the nozzle got brushed off. If it is really the Cura's fault, it should be fixed ASAP. I was very lucky I didn't print it in the center and that it was a very small object, so I don't have to replace the whole print bed due to this. Anyone has any ideas what could this be caused by? Thanks.
  2. Hello. I would like some help troubleshooting some printing issues I have recently been having. My hospital got a 3D printer several months ago and we have been successful with our prints and making complex models with tough PLA and PVA support (I also attached a previous successful model printed with same settings). Recently, my models are not adhering to the print bed to itself. I have tried with PLA supports and PVA supports. I have unloaded and reloaded the filaments as well. I also reset the print settings to default. I have tried all different recommended settings with no help. My printer continues to print strings that are not adhering to anything. Sometimes it starts to adhere to bed and then fails or will not adhere to plate at all. The only causes I can think of are the following: Filament hydration? I am in New Mexico, an arid climate but do not store the filaments in a desiccator. Perhaps this is the issue? Settings not correct? Print speed too fast? We recently tried ninjaflex 3.0 mm and did not have any success with this. We attributed this to the size of 3.0mm. Print head clogged? The print heads seem to be extruding fine... Should I be doing regular cleaning?
  3. Hallo zusammen! Da REC Filamente auffallend günstig sind im Vergleich zu den meisten anderen Anbietern, wollte ich kurz mal Eure Erfahrungen mit dem Hersteller erfragen. Ich habe bisher REC PLA in weiß und blau ausgiebig getestet und musste leider feststellen, dass immer wieder Rollen dabei sind, welche scheinbar Verunreinigungen enthalten und dadurch die Düse verstopfen. So geschehen in den letzten paar Tagen bei weiß und blau. Liegt also nicht nur an einer Farbe und ist bisher auch bei keinem anderen Filament, welches wir verwendet haben, passiert. Betroffen sind auch verschiedene Drucker, sodass es definitiv am Filament liegt. Die Düse ist derart verstopft, dass man nicht einmal bei 230 °C per Hand mit hohem Kraftaufwand Filament durchgeschoben bekommt. Hatten wir jetzt einfach nur mehrmals Pech oder könnt Ihr diese Erfahrung bestätigen?
  4. Hallo zusammen! Auf der Suche nach dem richtigen Blauton für unsere Muster bin ich auf ein extrem stark haftendes PLA gestoßen. Für uns absolut unbrauchbar da die Reinigung der Glasplatte knappe 20 Minuten gedauert hat. Es ließen sich nur kleine Stücke lösen und das auch nur mit hohem Kraftaufwand. Wer allerdings ein PLA sucht, welches richtig gut haftet, kann mit der Suche aufhören. Die genaue Bezeichnung lautet Polymaker PolyMax PLA und ist mit 44,95 Euro schon sehr teuer für 750g. Qualitativ konnte ich im Druckergebnis jedoch keinen Unterschied zu REC Filament feststellen, welches im Vergleich mit 19,95 Euro pro 750g das günstigste Filament im Test war. Fazit: Haftung auf Glas ist extrem hoch und das Druckergebnis ist in Ordnung, rechtfertigt aber nicht den mehr als doppelt so hohen Preis im Vergleich zu REC.
  5. Hey all At my work we have an Ultimaker 3e and we have had some problems it. at the moment we have a problem we cant seem to find the solution for. Sometimes a print will get wierd looking underextruded walls in model specific places. At the pictures the problem is shown on the indside walls, while the outside walls looks fine. we use PLA and the stock settings for ultimaker 3e in cura. To me it looks like a softeware issue, but im not sure.
  6. I am printing somefairly small miniatures and their legs always give me headache for printing. The above image shows the layer shift on the legs. I am using UM3 with PLA, most of the time my prints are fine but when it comes to small things and structure like this it seemed to fail. The adhesion is okay, but after a while the nozzle started to sort of knock the legs around a bit causing a layer shift during print. I have been printing slow at 30mm/s. I have checked the belt and they are tight. I have done manual leveling on buildplate just in case. Switching materials(brands) doesn't seem to hv differences, and this is some good eSun filament. none of the above action help. So I am going to show you how i slice my STL, see if i done sth wrong there. I have tried different ways and both still have layer shift issues. The first one with support interface enabled, support enabled, support brim enabled, tree support enabled, and increased 40% support density. The nozzle would knock on the printed legs and cause layershift mid-way, usually on one of the legs. The second one is on same settings but with a manually added cube printed as support. This one has less major layershifts but lot of minor shifting along the print, the result is shown in the first photo. Any good advice?
  7. I am usually printing small figurines so i didn't walk into much warping issues. until now that i have to print a box-like object with a large base. It seems the normal default print settings that worked in the past doesnt fit now. I was printing with mostly default "fine" profile on UM3 with 0.4 nozzle PLA 185C at 50mm/s, with a Brim, 60C build plate as usual. Sometimes the base of the model will warp up so far as it lift some of the brim around it off the build plate. Lot's of tutorials out there talk about wrapping issues, some mentioned very different/contradicting solutions, but I still fail to perfect my print. Printing with lower temperature sometimes cause even more warping/lifting the brim, that's to my surprise. I am wondering if printing slower factor into issue?
  8. Hi everyone, *** EDIT: For clarification the filament is only stripping when running a dual colour print. I've been able to run single colour prints from both nozzles without any issues using this filament. *** I'm having issues with the drive gears stripping filament on a dual colour PLA print. It seems to happen at random - both nozzles will be printing fine for a couple of hours and then out of nowhere one or the other will start having massive underextrusion and the filament will look as slightly torn up over a 10-15cm span out of the drive gear housing, and then the fatal groove where the gear finally ate too much. I'm using a "glitter" filled PLA with the 0.4mm AA print cores at 200C and 70mm/s. Here's a list of things I've tried to save people time suggesting things I've already done: - Changing the tension on the drive mechanism. I've tried it real tight, real loose and everywhere in between and the only thing affected is how much the filament gets chewed. - Thoroughly cleaning out the drive mechanisms, including cleaning the gears down. - Cold pull cycling the nozzles. I don't think the issue is clogged nozzles as filament extrudes freely without cleaning the nozzle out each time I have a problem, but I tried this anyway. - Changing the standby temperature from 100C to 160C and a couple of stages in between. - Changing retraction distance, limit and speed to try to limit the number of times the filament was run over the drive gear in the same place. Feel free to suggest any settings you know to work well for 2 colour prints as I'm not sure I've covered all the options on the retraction side of things! If anyone has seen this before or has any new ideas that'd be extremely helpful, thanks in advance! Glen
  9. Hallo, ich habe nun seit Tagen das Problem das das Filament (Ultimaker Silber Metallic welches zum Ultimaker dazu war) nicht mehr auf dem Druckbett hängen bleibt. Ich habe schon einiges probiert wie zb. den Feeder sauber gemacht, diese Atomic Cleaning Methode oder wie diese heißt, neues Tape drauf gemacht, das Druckbett mehrmals neu eingestellt... aber alles hat nicht geholfen. Ich habe vorher (einige Tage her) schon einiges mit dem Filament gedruckt was auch, bis auf die erste Schicht, immer ziemlich gut gelungen ist aber nun Spinnt der Drucker irgendwie komplett rum. Ich habe mal ein Video gemacht damit ihr seht wie das aussieht bzw. das er da für ein misst Produziert ^^ Da sieht man das er am Anfang des Skirt schon eine kleine Lücke hat was mich aber so nicht stört. Anfangen tut es dann bei dem ersten Schraubenloch. Der größere Kreis ist auch nicht komplett. Die Außenwände sehen dann wieder gut aus. Der Höhepunkt ist dann aber dieses andere Loch oben Rechts was erst mal überhaupt nicht haften will. Wie gesagt ich habe schon das Druckbett mehrmals mit versch. Abständen neu eingestellt und getestet aber jedes mal kommen diese Probleme wieder. Ich habe auch mal den gCode mit angehangen von diesem Objekt. Cura Version ist die 3.6.0 Ich hoffe ihr könnt mir helfen denn ich bin echt mittlerweile am verzweifeln. Air20_Front.gcode
  10. Hello guys! Recently I've experienced some extrusion issues with the ultimaker 2 extended+ I have at work. The machine is around three years old and has ran day and night in some cases, but I always did my maintenance!. As the images show the extrusion stops mid print at random heights.. To prevent this form happening I've replaced the PTFE Coupler and tube, nozzle and heating element, all of them original ofcourse. At the moment im printing with a 0.6 nozzle at different layer heights (0.2-0.3) as I am printing quite large objects. Some prints succeed but most of them fail and I'm at this point were im out of ideas.. The filament should be okay since I've used it for a long time without any issues. It seems that the nozzle clogs most of the times because when I push some filament through by hand to clean the nozzle a watery drop of filament falls out of the nozzle. This is quite strange as this just randomly started to happen, didnt change the temperature or anything really in cura. Increasing the temp and/or material flow during the print gives a temporary fix but will fail mostly in the end anyway. Soo, has anyone experienced the same issue and maybe has a solution?. Thanks in advance! Loek
  11. Bonjour, Depuis quelque temps, la première couche s'imprime de façon graduelle (ci-joint photo). un dégradé se forme toujours sur la partie inférieure. Un re-calibrage et une re-configuration usine n'ont pas suffi à régler le problème. Quels autres réglages dois-je procéder pour résoudre ce problème ? (je possède une Ultimaker 2+ et imprime avec du PLA) Merci pour vos retours.
  12. Trying to do a basic print with my UM3E after the update to the latest firmware 5.2 I believe. Not sure if it is a coincidence, but every time I print the nozzle is virtually scraping the plate. I have tried autoleveling a few times with no errors and get the same result. I have manually leveled with the same result. I even tried manually leveling and purposefully putting the nozzle high (over a mm) and it still scrapes. Is that a software issue? Potentially a sensor issue?
  13. Hello everyone, I am having trouble with some strange underextrusion. In some prints, maybe 1 out of 10 and in only certain parts, the PLA is extruded in little pulses that increase in frequency untill they turn into a smooth line. This always happens at the beginning of a new layer, after z-hop and retraction. Due to this the print is massively weakened at these parts and shows striations on the surface. I managed to capture this on video and also have a picture of it, but I have no idea what could be causing this, especially because it only shows up every now and then. I would be very grateful for tips and help regarding the issue. Here is the link to the video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7 Thank you very much! [edit by gr5: note solution was found by the original poster - see 2 message far below by author with "heart"/like icon]
  14. hello community! using extrudr MF PLA as the mainmaterial and UM PVA as supportmaterial, i always get tiny holes in the surface of the MF PLA, at the places where the two materials touch. the rest is acceptable! anybody is fighting with the same problem? how could i get rid of those? hopefully the attached photos will help! greetings
  15. Hi, I have a bit of a weird problem. I'm printing loads of the same container, and this went pretty well (for details on settings see below). However yesterday, suddenly the first layer started to get messed up. So I trief what I usually do, rigourously cleaning the build plate and nozzle, level/calibrate the buildplate and apply a thin layer of glue, again, first layer messed up, however, it;s only the left backside of the printer that messe up. The first layer on other parts of the buildplate are fine. Also see enclosed photo's. Just to be sure I printed the same model about 5 times without any trouble before. So I went through a cycle of cleaning and leveling the buildplate about 5 times but with the same result every time. Now I;m avoiding the left side of the printbed but that is not a viable solution. Also while printing on the other side I get more bleeds of fillament during travel. I'm at a loss what I should try. Any hints? Attachments shows the first layer after removing it fronm the print bed. left-under side was neer the front, right top side was near the left back. Thanks! Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Nozzle: 0.4 mm Layer height 0.2 mm
  16. Does anyone have any ideas as to the causes of the visible layering in the picture? I'm using eSun PLA+ filament with the settings shown below and Ultimaker PVA (with built-in standard settings).
  17. Hey, For my first print I was wondering what the optimal position for my object(small box) would be? Right now it is oriented on it's bottom but there are some problems with the handle of the box and the two stoppers on the side which would need support. Cura also indicates that the letters and number need support but these protrude only 2mm(at max). Do these elements need support? I can also position it on the back of the box instead of the bottom but then it will need alot of support (I suppose) in order for the front panel to print good. What would you advise? Printing on an aquintance's MakerBot Replicator 2 (which as far as i know only takes PLA(?)) box dimensions: 51(width) x 34(height) x 64.2(depth) Some images of the box & .stl attached Thanks, a. 3DP_Brause-1.5-test.stl
  18. Hello, I've been experiencing printing failures with a lot of hairy stuff. It's probably what's called "stringing". https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19504-how-to-fix-stringing The printing went well up until some point, and then the shape started to show some problems and the severe stringing started. Once I confirmed that the nozzle was extruding the string into the midair while the half-printed material was off the spot and moving about. Not sure if this explains all the issues, but it appears that the bottom of the printed material was not stuck well enough. I chose Build Plate Adhesion Type to be "Brim". I cleaned the surface of the floor. The material was PLA. Print core AA 0.4. Extra Fine 0.06 mm. What else should I consider to prevent this? Best, Kouichi ---- Actually, this is related to the issue: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19537-how-to-fix-warping ---- This is one example of the incident. As shown in the pictures, when the print core reached a certain height (~27 mm), the "raft" went off the ground (the raft was not flat anymore) and the printed material started dancing on the floor with fluffy hair (stringing).
  19. Bjr, suite au chargement d'un fichier STL avec un GCode endommagé, le Marlin 1.1.8 a disparu et l'imprimante ne fonctionne évidemment plus. La carte MKS Gen L V1.0 est démontée. l'affichage d'origine affiche un joli bleu et l'affichage TFT, booting puis No File found. Check the file system configuration ! j'ai voulu rétablir le firmware HEX, la connexion USB était mal connecté et poup ! plus d'imprimante. Habituellement je charge avec une carte SD mais j'ai déjà fonctionné avec Cura 4.0 en USB. J'espère ne pas avoir flingué le bootloader mais j'hésite un peu pour la suite. reconfigurer Marlin en version 1.1.9 et téléverser sur la carte,avec ou sans l'imprimante ? Quelqu'un sait il si la version Arduino 1.8.9 fonctionne; dans le doute, j'ai rétabli la version 1.8.5 et avant de configurer et téléverser Marlin, je ne suis pas programmeur du tout, j'hésite un peu; je peux faire une grosse bêtise...le petit booting qui s'affiche quand je connecte l'écran TFT me fait penser que la carte n'est pas brikée mais je ne suis sûr de rien. quant à Marlin version code source, c'est tout de même prise de tête. si quelqu'un peut me conseiller pour connaître la marche a suivre et comment vérifier l'état de la carte. le firmware disparu, je l'avais pompé ici et là mais je ne l'ai plus. Conservez vous des copies de vos firmwares à jour ? Ce doit être plus facile avec une machine stock; je ne dois pas être le 1° mais je suis encore un peu dubitatif sur les versions Marlin, Arduino, etc... c'est pas trop stable tout çà mais mes dernières impressions étaient top. j'espère ne pas avoir a tout refaire.merci a ceux qui pourrait m'aider, notamment en programmation, ça ne se prête pas à l'improvisation. cordialement
  20. Hi I'm using a Rigidbot printer (based on reprap). It has like a 10" build plate. But for some reason Cura keeps pausing when I'm on the 3rd layer, (sometimes the second). It stops in different locations and even if I swap parts (that are the same rough shape) it continues to stop. At first I thought it might have been the cable so i replaced that but still getting the same result. The tallest print I've made is over 8" in height so I know it's not a duration thing... I don't know. I'm not sure what to do...
  21. Bonjour, J'ai récemment reçu une ultimaker 2 pour faire du prototypage. Celle-ci a déjà pas mal vécu et, après nettoyage et graissage des axes, j'ai procédé aux réglages pour passer à l'impression. J'ai donc calibré le plateau (plusieurs fois), fait la méthode atomique pour nettoyer la buse, nettoyé le plateau et fais des essais. Les petites pièces (environ 5 cm de diamètre) s'impriment correctement mais, suite au passage à l'impression d'un plateau de 70 mm de diamètre, la première couche d'accroche se relève comme si la chaleur et l'adhésion "tendent" les rebords. J'ai essayé plusieurs réglages de vitesse (je fais la première couche à 80%), de températures d'extrusion (je fais à 200°c) et de lit (je le met à 60°c) mais malgré cela, le bord inérieur au fond à droit je relève toujours petit à petit dès le cinquième tour. En essayant de positionner la pièce ailleurs sur le lit; même résultat. Le filament PLA semble assez agé mais présente une bonne impression sur de petites pièces. Il s'agit quand même de 3mm de diamètre mais je n'ai pas de problème avec le feeder dès 200°c à l'extrusion. Est-ce que je fais quelque chose de faux ou faut-il changer de filament? J'ai entendu dire qu'un filament ancien aura absorbé de l'humidité et qu'il serait intéressant de le régénérer au four (40°c pdt 3h)... Merci à ceux qui prendront le temps de me conseiller 😉
  22. New to printing and just got a tronxy xy-3. Having a few problems getting it dialed in. It's printing roughly 10 mm above the bed...sometimes. I'm not sure what I need to change but sometimes it will print above the bed and sometimes it will come down to where it should be. I have printed a few things...when it gets down to the bed. And they come out decent for now. If i move the Z axis and then try and print, It asks if i want to print from the current location. I'm using cura to slice. We 3D print where I work so I have a general idea of how to set the settings and how it should be printing. The magnetic bed also might not be the best for adhesion, has anyone else had adhesion problems with magnetic mats?
  23. Hi there everybody, i hope someone can help me before i lose my sanity with this one. on my UM3 extended, every print has recently been printing the first layer perfectly, and then suddenly printing like it cant extrude properly (shown on the photo). im using PLA 2.85mm, printing at 50 mps at 210 degrees as suggested by other forum posts, along with a print bed at 60 degrees that ive leveled more times than i can count in an effort to fix the issue. any suggestions would be greatly appricated and to help get me printing again!
  24. Bonjour à tous, Donc voilà, je comprends pas pourquoi quand j'ouvre un fichier pris sur Thingiverse, l'objet devient énorme avec des dimensions qui passent de genre 20mm normalement à 2000mm? à chaque fois je dois redimensionner et c'est pas toujours facile de retrouver les dimensions exactes quand la dimenion qui m'intéresse se trouve à l'intérieur de la pièce (je débute vraiment) et ca le fait aussi quand j'ouvre un fichier avec Cura depuis fusion 360... Merci d'avance
  25. Nothing I do will make these blobs go away except for switching to slic3r, but I'm having a world of other issues with that program so I'm still trying to get Cura to play nice. I have tried Flow, retraction, coating, z seam alignment, wall count, combing, retracting before outer wall, speed, almost everything and its making me crazy. Any advice regarding what other settings i can try or anything really would be appreciated. I have included the gcode, cura profile, and what my results were with coasting enabled, nothing enabled, and detracting before outer wall. CFFFP_test_cylinder.gcode Printing Profile with Blobs.curaprofile
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