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  1. Bonjour à tous, Vous allez vous dire, encore un nouveau qui n'a pas réglé son plateau ni regardé ses paramètres, ni regardé si un topic existait déjà... Nouveau, ici je le suis effectivement. Mais j'ai écumé pas mal de topics, forums, vidéos ici et ailleurs et je n'ai pas trouvé de solutions à mon problème. Contexte : Je suis en train de me fabriquer une CN avec de nombreuses pièces imprimées en PLA. J'ai une Ultimaker 2 (oui elle commence à dater un peu) Je n'ai jamais touché aux réglages de base. J'utilise les derniers firmwares. Et comme
  2. Hi everyone, first post here, Correct me if I'm doing something wrong or I'm posting this in the incorrect space. First of all I wanna say that I have a 3rd party 3d printer and I use ultimaker cura (4.3) to create the gcode files. The piece I want to print is like a flat rectangular frame with thic bezel (and a big square hole in the middle) and i have to print it upright (touching the bed with the smallest face to clarify) due to print space limitations. Here's my problem, I don't want to use a lot of material and the only support avabile on Cura without plugin
  3. Hi! Hope somebody might be able to point us in the right direction. We have 2 Ultimaker printers, both S5. We have them on the same firmware update (4.8.1) with the same setup for extruders. Now we printed a gcode file, for which we used extruder 1 with AA0.4 nozzle and a PLA filament. Both printers exactly the same setup and gcode file, but still the outcome is different > see images attached. One model is really rough on the edges, the other one (from the other printer) has smooth edges. We hope somebody might be able to help us figure out
  4. I’m new to the group and relatively new to CURA, so please pardon me if these questions are too “beginner”: When both wiping and retraction are enabled, is there a way to force CURA to retract before wiping rather than the reverse? Also, is there a way to force the wiping to occur on an inner wall rather than an outer? Thanks in advance for any clarification.
  5. So I designed this lampshade to print on my ender 3 pro with a 0.8mm nozzle and its feeling like a nightmare... I get these few layers at about 21,2 cm that are very slightly shifted to the outside of the geometry plus some change in thickness over a little area, none of this i could identify in Cura 4,7,1. Of course the whole layer looks like %&%& and makes the whole print useless for lighting, Im uploading some pics so you get an idea... I have tried multiple settings, from changing layer height and line width, using adaptative layers, Smooth Spiralized, Maximum Res., Make
  6. Hello all, Pretty much what the title says... I have a Lulzbot mini, using PLA+ from eSUN. After the initial layer is deposited, the nozzle will scrape over the surface of the previous layer, which ends up ruining the print. I have already re-calibrated the Z-offset using the console in CURA (Lulzbot edition). My knowledge of the firmware is limited, so I don't really know what to do at this point (thinking there might be something wrong with the z axis or smth). I am interested to hear what others might think the problem could be. I've learned a lot from this community so far
  7. Lately i printed a lot with PETG and havent printed with PLA in a while. for a new project i picked up a new spool of PLA. its the amazon basics brand gold colored PLA. i think it prints quite well, except for the first couple layers. they are very frisky like there is way too much filament. it looks like as soon as it prints with infill instead of solid for the bottom layers its fine. i tried changing a lot of settings. here are the settings: Nozzle temp.: 190-215 (i tried changing it without different results) heatbed temp.: 55-65 (same thing. i tried varying the temperature)
  8. I am trying to print a small object with thin areas. The bottom side/layer (side that is attached to the build plate) in the first picture (IMG_6238.jpg) has gaps and holes (basically not smooth). The top side in the second picture (IMG_6239.jpg) shows a smooth surface which is what I want. I am using Cura and printing on FlashForge creator pro. My nozzle is 0.4mm and my line width is 0.4mm. I have try many settings such as enabling "Fill Gaps Between Walls", enabling "Filter Out Tiny Gaps", changing "Wall Line Count" to 1, enabling "Compensate Wall Overlaps", increasing "Minimum Wall Flo
  9. Bonjour à tous, Étant « apprenti maker » j’aurais besoin de pas mal de conseils et de retours d’expériences de votre part me permettant de résoudre les quelques problèmes que je rencontre. Je vous joins ci-dessous quelques photos de mes trois premières œuvres d’art. 🤪🤪 Photos : https://www.dropbox.com/s/wba9i1gevadrnue/IMG_6409 2.JPG?dl=0 PS : le décalage visible sur la partie supérieure de la première impression est dû à la chute du cache buse en silicone — qui a par conséquent tout emporté. Merci d’avance.
  10. Hi, I'm using ender 3 pro. The filament I'm using is pla+, the printer was doing fine but suddenly there is something wrong. It is printing the top part in the wrong place. Besides, there is so many thread like substances. I have tried leveling the bed several times. But I'm unable to find the problem. My nozzle temp us 210C and bed temperature is 70C. Is my printer missing several steps? Please help me. I have attached the picture of my print.
  11. Hi! I'm relatively new to the world of 3D printing. I have an Ender 3 3D printer. I'm trying to print a 2 part mold for a figurine. I printed it out but the mold was filled in, leaving only an outline of the figure. I've looked up and followed a few tutorials and I oriented the mold different ways before printing. But I can't seem to get it right. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks! Jim Pickens Mold3.stl
  12. Hello All, I am relatively new to 3D printing. I am having issues with the Cura Slicer while printing on my Ender 3 Pro. Whenever I have my 3D model ready in Cura then save the GCODE and start printing, the PLA will not adhere to the bed at all. Now before you stay bed leveling, temperature heating or bed adhesive. When I use the Creality Slicer without fail the PLA adheres to the bed. It seems to be the strangest thing and I don’t understand what could be the difference between the two slicer softwares especially since I have read so many good reviews about Cura Slicer
  13. We are two trainees in the Planetary and Robotics Laboratory at the European Space Agency and we built ExoMy, an educational mars rover: It is completely 3D printed on an Ultimaker 3 and an Ultimaker 2, which took us around two weeks of print time. We set up a website and a Github Wiki to guide through the whole build process. So we hope to see some ExoMy clones soon :)
  14. Hi! a while ago I have made this 8mm film scanner. Since I printed the parts on my UM2+ I thought I post it here. You can find the files and a more detailed article here: https://hackaday.io/project/167426-8mm-film-scanner In case you wonder why I used (Ultimaker) ABS and PLA - I originally printed all parts in PLA, but after some time figured out that the stepper motor gets too warm for the nearby parts, especially the cogwheel, and they start to deform slightly. So I switched to ABS for some of the parts and the problem was solved. In this project I learned a lot a
  15. So, currently using Cura 4.6.1 on a ender 3. Cant seem to find settings that make for smooth connection points to supports. i have interface on. the rest of the print turn out great so not sure why these points look so bad.
  16. Hi zusammen, Habe ein Problem mit gedruckten Schrauben. Ich benutze immer gerne M10x25 Schraube + Mutter zum Testen der verschiedenen Drucker und Druckeinstellungen. PLA mit Schichtdicke 0,1mm bei 200°C Die blaue Schraube ist auf meinem bisherigen Drucker gedruckt (3D-Systems CubeBro Trio), die schwarze Schraube auf meinem neuen Ultimaker S5. Meine Telefon-Kamera ist leider nicht so toll, aber man kann das Problem erkennen: Die Gewindeflanken sind Sägezahnförmig, statt gleichseitig dreieckig. Die Kante zum Schraubenkopf hin ist viel steiler, als d
  17. Hi, I'm new to 3d printing. I use Ender 3 pro. I tried to print this ring with 0% infill, print speed of 30mm/s, resolution of 0.35. The extruder temperature was 210 degree celsius and bed temperature was 70 degree celsius. I'm totally unaware, what actually went wrong. My printer started printing something box like substance. I was using PLA+ filament. Please help to improve this. Thanks in advance.
  18. Good night, I am having this error in pieces, only in one part of the bed. I understand that it may be a leveling error. But I already leveled it several times. What else can you think of that could be? It is only the first layer. I have rotated the piece 45 degrees the piece and discovered that it is only in that point of the bed. Thx so much.
  19. Hi! This isn’t an ultimaker (Monoprice MP Delta) , but I’m having general issues with maybe bed adhesion? I’ll attach a picture, but whenever my printer does the first layer, the filament pulls up. There’s little holes in the layer, and it messes up the whole print. it also does this if the first layer is on top of a raft. It still pulls up. I’m printing on a glass bed, with glue stick. Temperatures are 200c on the nozzle, and 60c on the bed. I’ve tried to adjust the flow rate to fix layer adhesion problems, but it still wont stick to the bed. I know my bed is leveled, and I’ve used these sett
  20. Hi everyone Just 2 days old in 3D printing realm I am trying to print this small part with dia 3 mm cylindrical features. I am printing with PLA material Everything is fine but just when it starts to print these small cylindrical features it goes over to one particular point before printing the next one Once it goes over to this particular point it starts oozing filament & the features have these whiskers stuck or completely fail. Is there a setting
  21. Hi, Is there a means to change filament type mid-way through a print? I want to print one part in PLA, and another in TPU. These require different temperature settings, it isn't as simple as inserting a new reel. The second print head of the Ultimaker 3E is occupied with PVA support filament. Thanks!
  22. Hi, I've an Ultimaker 3 and have been using it since it came out. The NFC spool holder never worked but it doesn't bother me much so I never try to investigate. Last week I went through the menu on my Ultimaker (for fun) and noticed that in the NFC hardware Test in the Diagnostic menu says NFC hardware not detected I disassembled the spool holder and noticed that the cable is detached, I reattached the cable and check Diagnostic again, and now it says NFC Hardware detected I was super happy and then proceed to load my material, but it is still not detecting my Ultima
  23. Saludos cordiales a todos. Hace unos días intenté varias veces imprimir un modelo descargado desde Thingiverse (un E.V.A. 01 de Evangelion) y una de las partes se imprimía con un error, como si lo hubieran cortado con un cuchillo, aunque lo intentara imprimir rotándolo en varias posiciones antes de segmentarlo, siempre salía igual. Esto usando CURA 4.6.0 Solucioné el problema abriendo el archivo STL en el programa Blender para modelado 3D y guardándolo con otro nombre de archivo, sin modificar el objeto ni nada y segmentándolo en CURA como siempre.
  24. Hi all, I am experiencing the issue pictured below. What I find odd is it prints the brim perfectly every time but when it then moves on to printing inside it the walls don't meet and the adhesion seems to get non-existent. Any suggestions?
  25. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
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