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  1. Good Morning all , I paid to have this design made , do you think this is printable ? , can it be fixed ? thank you
  2. I received my Ender 3 Pro and followed directions to a tee, then tried the dog model and it came out horribly. 3 days later I've been tinkering with the machine doing these items; Leveling bed Tightening belts Checking PSU, Fan, Extruder After this my prints improved by 20%, now comes the cura settings. I just can't seem to find the right balance as I went as far as to precise printing of small parts at .04. Current Settings; (Cura Profile Attached) 4.5.1 QUALITY Layer Height: .12mm Initial Layer Height: .12mm Line Width: .4mm Initial Layer Line Width: 100% SHELL Wall Thickness: 2 (Tried Lowering and Raising) Wall Line Count: 5 Optimize Wall printing: True Alternate Extra Wall: True Fill Gaps Between Walls: Everywhere Z Seam Alignment: Sharpest Corner Enable Ironing: True (Gives Better Top Layer) Skin Overlap %: 10 INFILL Density: 100% (Before I get slack, I use this because I'm trying to make smaller gears that I don't want to bend easy, Going forward im just gonna get stronger material) Infill Pattern: Grid Infill line Multiplier: 1 Infill Overlap %: 15 Layer Thickness: .12mm Skin Removal: 2mm MATERIAL Temp: 210 Bed Temp: 60 Material: PLA Flow: 130 (Using less gives worse prints, and I don't think it has to do with bed level, im looking into different extruders) SPEED Speed: 45 Wall Speed: 25 Travel Speed: 150 # of Slower Layers: 2 Print Jerk: 20 Travel Jerk: 20 TRAVEL Enable Retraction: true Traction Distance: 6mm Traction Speed: 25mm Combing: Off Retract Before Outer Wall: True ADHESION Build Plate: Raft (Gives better adhesion vs everything else) All Other settings are base or near base (Attached Profile) Images: https://ibb.co/XbXrFWY https://ibb.co/m8rNr0P https://ibb.co/9Z9L80r https://ibb.co/7Gxfymw https://ibb.co/XjFs5Zf Video: https://streamable.com/6laa9 Im still learning alot so feel to correct where needed better.curaprofile
  3. Hi 3D Printing folks, Got an issue while Printing with Dual nozzle(Chimera type) Whenever i am printing dual colored prints in PLA at 190-220 degrees on both nozzles with prime tower using 4.5-6.5mm retraction settings still the oozing is high. Have tried with different temp & Retraction settings. The first hot end is passing through the print and then going to the prime tower, forming to ooze more, Can some help me how to bring the hot end directly to prime tower with out halting over the Printing part? Have tried with few G-Codes, Please let me know what can be done, Thanks in Advance !!
  4. There is not much more to say. If you can help, please do so. This was intended to be a vase made out of black Tough PLA.
  5. Hi, we try to print a support with overhang which needs support. Unfortunately, Cura does not put support on the whole area but leaves an area with no support in the middle. I assume, that Cura wants to save support material and thinks, that the printer will use bridging. This works in 20% of the prints, in 80% not. The first layer which is placed on the support fails quite often. I attached some photos and some cura screenshots. Is there a possibility to improve the slicer in a way, that it does not leave areas with no support? Or can one improve bridging? We are using Ultimaker PLA material for print and Ultimaker PVA for support. Does this bridging fail because of bad adhesion of PLA on PVA? As already mentioned, I attached photos, screenshots of slicing and of the support settings (basic settings from Cura) Thanks in advance for your help and ideas :)
  6. HI, I need a support, Well i am printing a device model which has a one pipe extension so when i importing my model in Cura 4.2.1 its default value fix at printing plate and the round part of my object touches the plate, in that case my print is getting lost its specifications, so please suggest how i can start my print 1 or 2 mm upward from the bed with supports so my print dimensions getting same. Please find the attached images for the reference. Thanks
  7. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
  8. I'm struggling for a while to make my ultimakers S5/3 print better with a consistent skin quality with cura. I found changing the jerk and accelerate settings helped me a lot here together with some other small tweaks like lower themps and 25mm/s print speed (i printed around +-50 xyz test cubes to see what is happening with cura settings). But for some reason i get artifacts in the skin on places that i cannot explain (On the picture i pointed out what i mean with these artifacts). Its not always on a position were are bottom or top layer would start for example. The thing i'm looking for is a really high skin quality that is consistent i don't care about print time, consistent good quality is everything to me. I hope some one can advice me what to do to get a better consistent surface quality with cura.
  9. Hallo Zusammen, Ich habe zwei Teile mal zu lange im Wasser gelassen um das Stützmaterial weg zu waschen. Dabei haben die Schichten angefangen sich voneinander zu lösen. Ist das Normal oder ist da ein Fehler beim Drucker/Cura?
  10. Hi, I have problems printing a box with a lid. The corners aren't perpendicular to each other, therefore I can't assemble the box. The box is totally slanted when assembled and I can't put my finger on it, why this happens. The Box and the lid individually lay flat. I printed the box three times so far with no luck. At first I thought the large bottom area causes the problem, so I designed a big hole in it. That did not help either. Maybe the filament is the problem? Please see attached pictures. I printed the last model upside down with a ton of support. The top layer isn't ideal either, that's why i think the material could be a problem. I hope someone has an idea.
  11. Yanfeng_Neustadt


    Hi Leute, ich hätte eine Frage an euch. Die die ein UM2+ haben, können mir die besten Einstellungen für meinen Drucker sagen ?
  12. Hi, I have a problem with my ultimaker s5, I tried printing a few very simple pieces with the new air manager installed, in PLA with a filament and a profile super tested, but the pieces warped inside after few layers, but in a really strange way: increasingly towards the right side. In the photo attached you can clearly see the first on the left cube in good shape, and then the others start warping more and more, on the right the last two totally detached from the plate. Any idea what could be the problem? What can cause the right/left differences?
  13. hello good afternoon I hope someone can help me, because I am already desperate I don't know what else to try, my problem is that when the plot begins it is like it does not start with the correct flow what I gained little by little by the path according to and measuring the piece with the caliber, and touched retraction (distance / speed), activated deactivation deactivated and with the only thing that obtained the closing a bit the piece is lowering the printing speed from 60 to 30 and even then the first wall is thinner that the second, the second finer than the third and the third finer than the fourth, which already has the flow that it must have, so I do not think that it is not the sea because of the printing speed, I attach photos so that I understand better all the billet that I put here haha, (my diagnosis is that it is difficult to catch the flow of time, in which the path is already found. Greetings I hope you can help me. hola buenas tarde espero que alguien me pueda ayudar, porque ya estoy desesperado no se que mas probar, mi problema es que cuando empieza el trazado es como que no empieza con el flujo correcto lo va ganado poco a poco por el trazado según e podido apreciar midiendo la pieza con el calibre,e tocado retracción (distancia/velocidad), activado desactivado retracción y de mas con lo único que he conseguido que cierre un poco la pieza es bajando la velocidad de impresión de 60 a 30 y aun así la primera pared es mas fina que la segunda, la segunda mas fina que la tercera y la tercera mas fina que la cuarta, la cual ya si tiene el flujo que debe de tener, por eso no creo tampoco que sea por la velocidad de impresión, adjunto fotos para que se entienda mejor todo el tocho que e puesto aquí jaja, (mi diagnostico es que le cuesta coger el flujo un tiempo, en el cual ya a comenzado el trazado. un saludo espero puedan ayudarme.
  14. Hello. I have an Ender3 Pro and last night it started printing out a test item fine. It messed up at the end; the PLA didn't adhere and just made a stringy mess... I think that may have been that the room temperature dipped to 16c. Not sure tho. Anyway, I've downloaded a popular image to try something larger out (attached) It is an STL file but I used the latest Cura to change it to Gcode. However, when I attempt to print, it does something weird: it draws a line on the fat left before attempting to print, then when it prints nothing adheres and it just ends up looking like a pile of pasta. I have tried rebalancing/levelling my plate, cleaning my plate, cleaning my extractor nozzle - everything I can think of but it just won't print. I am out of ideas and going mad. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers CE3_Head_with_brim_high_detail.gcode Head_with_brim_high_detail.stl CE3_Head_with_brim_high_detail.gcode
  15. Hello, I would like some help with the printing of a gauntlet. It is being printed in PLA Tough and generating support with the material itself, however in the circular part that is shown in the images it is noticed that the part printed on the support looks bad, with aesthetically unpleasant finish. The following parameters have already been changed in Cura, they are: Printing temperature lowered by 10ºC; The distance Z of the support in relation to the piece is 0.4 mm (maximum allowed by the slicer without impairing the impression) that same value is applied to the Top Distance and Bottom Distance; Print speed tested at 50, 45, 40 and 35 mm/s; 30% support fill; Support Interface activated with thickness equal to 1 mm, Interface Resolution of 0.4 mm, Interface Desnity of 100% and Pattern Zig Zag: None of this had the desired effect, I am printing with only 1 extruder nozzle. What can I try to change to improve this print appearance? printed part on the support (bad appearance): good looking printing support:
  16. We got a problem with printing a big cilindercal shape (100x100x300mm). In the appendix some picture of the printing and end-result! The build platform is vibrating a lot! About 4 to 5mm on the end of the build platform. We don't have this problem before with other prints. We are printing with PLA at 204 degrees. If you want more information please let me know!
  17. Hello everyone, this is my first inquiry here so firstly thank you for any help you can provide. Secondly Im having issues with my Ender 3 Pro. Like most people my bed isn't perfectly level and because I'm using the magnetic bed those dips can cause some mild leveling issues. Once I get everything level though and start printing everything seems fine. A few hours into my prints though I start to get gaps in my lines for both the infill and my walls. I thought maybe my bed adjustment knobs were backing off. So I lightly raise the bed in the area im noticing it happening and the lines will go away but eventually will form again. Then I thought maybe it was pillowing but further research showed it didn't look anything like pillowing. So then I thought maybe I needed to increase my flow from 95% to 100% which helped slightly but the gaps are still there. I know ironing can help, but this is happening on most every layer below the final layer, meaning those gaps in my walls go very far down into my print and I would rather fix the problem and not just the visible layer. My friend recommended trying to decrease the line distance, currently it's set to 1.6mm, to try and ensure they stick together. I was thinking perhaps a glass bed to replace the magnetic one help since it would actually be flat compared to my bed. What do you all think? Included is a few images of prints with the gaping im taking about. Again thank you all and happy printing!
  18. Hi Even though the retraction setting is on, the printer isn't retracting, the printer in all good (no mechanical non-function), I tried to find E- in the g-code for any retraction and no result, that means a bug in cura. When i tried to update cura above this version it won't run on my computer. thanks
  19. I am brand new to 3D printing (actually helping my 12 year old son). We have a Monoprice MP10 Mini (just bought for Christmas) and downloaded Cura 3.3.1. I tried getting a newer version of Cura but could not find the Monoprice MP10 Mini on any other Cura version other than 3.3.1. I am also using a PC but have a Mac to use as well if needed but could not find any Cura with Mac for Monoprice MP10 mini. In any case, the 3D models that we are trying to print out are not completing and I can't find any error message as to why. We are using Tinkercad to build the model and have tried saving as .STL and .OBJ. The sample cat file completed its print so I know that the printer can complete a model. I also tried printing the Thingverse sample Bunchy and that printed to 75% completion. Simple models like a cube and heart have completed. We are currently trying to print out a Star Wars X Wing and it got to 60% complete and then the printer just stopped with no error. Based on this, I have several questions: 1. Is there anywhere on Cura 3.3.1 that I can see the error messages to try and troubleshoot 2. Is there a way that I can upgrade to a more recent Cura version for the Monoprice MP10 Mini, assuming that will help with my prints. If it does not matter, I have no problem staying on version 3.3.1. 3. Any insight as to why my 3D model is not printing? Can I tell if there is something wrong with the model that we built in Tinkercad. All the pieces look put together and they are all "grouped" so it should come out fine. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide to total NEWBIE in 3D printing trying to help her son with building 3D models. See attachments if that is helpful. X wing practice test.stl
  20. Hello! This is still a relatively new problem for, and started happening when I played around with a couple settings to improve print quality. Here's the overall problem: Small holes that look roughly like a square appear in patterns on flat surfaces. Pretty sure this is a layer height issue, but I don't know the correct height... any help would be appreciated. Thank You.
  21. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  22. I'm 3D printing on an Ender 3 with Solutech PLA filament (1.75mm) and using an extension in Cura (4.4.0) to pause at a layer. At this point, I'm changing colors (same brand) and finishing out the print with the new color. My problem is that the second color wants to delaminate from the original and I can essentially pull off all the new layers as a piece because it hasn't "stuck" properly to the original. Thinking that the pause would result in the original layers to cool, I set the "standby temp" to 210. Is there some other trick that will give me better adhesion? Ender 3 Cura 4.4.0 Nozzle (.4mm) at 200 degrees Glass bed at 60 degrees Print quality .12mm Print speed 120 mms Print acceleration 1500 mms Standby temperature 210 degrees
  23. Hello, I just started 3D printing and i have a problem... When i started the printing session, the first layer looked like this. (Image attached) Why does it look like crap? 😞 I use the Cura default Profile (0.2) I only changed the infill and added support. Send Help. 3D printer: Creality CR-10 max Bed temp: 60 Nozzle temp: 195
  24. Hola grupo!! ☺️ Comencé en la impresión 3D con una impresora tipo delta de la marca He3D, modelo k280 debido que tengo amigos con impresoras cartesianas como la ender 3 y no tengo tanta paciencia para esperar ha,ha,ha. no tengo muchos conocimientos sobre el tema. Me puede decir como crear un perfil o que necesito para usar Cura v4.4 con mi impresora, solo quiero imprimir PLA por el momento.
  25. zanggi

    Filament Probleme

    Hallo zusammen, Bin neu im 3D Druck Bereich daher eine kleine Frage: ich habe meine ersten Drucke gemacht und nach dem 3 Objekt hat sich das filament auf der ca.10 Schicht aufgestellt und hat gar nicht mehr auf der unteren Schicht gehaftet. Grund? Nozzle temp: 195 Bed temp: am Anfang 45 dann ist sie auf 0 Material: PLA 3D Drucker : Creality CR-10 Max Bild im Anhang
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