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Found 182 results

  1. cloakfiend

    Shiny Nike Air Max 90 Mini

    ....as the title suggests, but perhaps a bit too shiny! will age it later, if at all, but most likely will, nothing stays shiny for long with me these days....lol. Had fun with the photos....took way too many as usual.
  2. Hi, As you can see, I need more material to have a good first layer. I add more material with extrusion multplier up to 1.1 but it doesnt work. The filament seam to be stuck... I clean the nozzle between each print. I use solex printcore with 0.6 nozzle (ice). I just made a print very good with the same parameter.... Yves
  3. Bonjour à tous, J'ai une impression bi-color à faire et je viens de charger du PLA red sur le BB 0.4 et du PLA Silver sur le AA 0.4. Lors du chargement du PLA Red mon UM3 m'a dit "Il n'est pas recommandé de charger PLA Red avec le Printcore BB 0.4" mais je ne vois pas pourquoi et surtout j'ai déjà eu cette config sans avoir de message d'erreur. Le truc embêtant en passant c'est que du coup Cura ne veut pas se paramétrer par défaut... J'utilise des Profils d'impression personnalisé donc ça va mais je souhaiterais savoir tout de même le pourquoi de cette non-compatibilité ? Merci d'avance.
  4. crooshe

    [Résolu]Sous Extrusion

    Bonjour, J'ai un problème avec une UM3 Neuve. Quand j'essaye d'imprimer au bout d'un certain temps le filament est rogné et j'ai alors de la sous extrusion (ou le contraire). J'ai essayer alors à partir des paramètre de base de Cura 3.4 : - Passage avec une rétractation à 4mm et vitesse 40mm/s - Vitesse d'impression à 60mm/s.... - Méthode atomic pour le nettoyage de la buse malgré que les première couche sont toujours parfaites. Et lors du chargement du filament je n'ai aucun problème. J'utilise du Polymaker Polymax mais j'ai essayé avec le PLA Ultimaker même résultat. Bref toujours le même problème et ça commence un peu à m'énerver parce que sur une Prusa I3 je n'ai jamais eu de tel problème pourtant la machine est pratiquement 6 fois moins chère.... Je peut faire des photos si vous voulez. Merci à tous de votre aide. Si vous avez des paramètre à me préconisé je suis preneur.
  5. I got my printer in January and I haven't seen to get it to work. I've built filters, cleaned nozzles, replaced nozzles and this just keeps happening.....CURLING...... PLEASE HELP THE NOOB That print was a storm trooper with my printers magic numbers
  6. I've just finished building my first 3d printer. Its the Imakr Startt. Assembly went easily enough though the instructions provided were not very clear - the USB drive they sent even had a word doc containing several corrections to the instructions included - which I did not find until after the build lol. Anyway, after putting in a lot of time building this thing and troubleshooting issues just to get it to print at all I'm at a bit of a standstill. The printer seems to be printing ok at first but fails every time around 2 minutes into the print. I'm using the latest version of Cura. When the print fails the printer stops and the screen on the printer displays the startt logo.
  7. This has happened a number of times with my UMO+ now. It started after I have brought a new hot end and temperature gauge. I have tested the same file multiple times and it stops in a different place each time, I have even tried different files on a new SD card. When it stops the extruder head remains in the same place (doesn't return to home) and the bed lowers, making me think it could be a power supply issue rather than G-code related. I also print using a SD card. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hallo, habe ein Problem mit den oberen Schichten bei einem 2-farbigen Druck mit PLA auf meinem UM3. 1.Bild zeigt den Druck ohne Einzugsturm und das 2.Bild zeigt den Druck mit Einzugsturm (Druck schon besser). Dennoch sieht man ganz gut, dass fast bis zur Hälfte der Druck gut verlaufen ist und dann die Probleme anfangen. Ich habe die empfohlenen Cura Standardeinstellungen (Normal mit 0,15mm), nur mit der Ergänzung des Einzugsturms. Als Material kommen die originalen PLA Spulen von UM zum Einsatz. Woran kann es liegen? Über ein paar Tipps bin ich dankbar. Danke vorab.
  9. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot 😃
  10. Hi, I am printing a hollow object with a 2mm wall, using Colorfabb PLA/PHA and a 0.8 nozzle. Printing with a 0.4 layer height and PVA support, with a 100%infill. The majority of the wall prints fine, but when it gets to one side there are gaps in the outer wall and the inside wall is blotchy. I've also noticed that the top layer in some areas has gaps between the outer wall and fill. I have printed with a few different settings for wall thickness and top/bottom thickness - but cant seem to resolve the issue. This is not to do with the printer or material feed as I tried it on two seperate UM3E printers. Pictures attached. Any help much appreciated as I am without clue!
  11. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    🙂Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine😃. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over😲. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. 🙏Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  12. When I started this project, it was originally going to be a skull I pulled from my own CT scans. However, due to the regions they were focusing on, I did not get the full face. Drat! But, I hate waste. So, I conceived of a sculpt that I could use it for and have a bit of fun. This led to two prints (One being Batty hanging from a tree limb in a swamp) from one set of models. This is the model in completed form here: This is how I got there in broad strokes. This is the base print as it came out. I had sectioned the skull to create a cutaway that would reveal the joke inside. The reason for the multitone print is that I was printing in tandem on my 2 UM3E machines to get things moving along. I just used the filament loaded as they were both PLA. This is the first test fitting. Here are the interior 'set pieces' that I had to make. I did print it originally as a one piece, but would not go inside the skull cavity. So, I sectioned it off and printed in pieces. For this, cleanliness of print was not imperative as I knew I would be doing a lot of post processing once the parts were mounted inside. And, sometimes, things lend themselves to the artistic merit of the piece. In this case, a dank swamp cave could be a bit ratty, so when a part did not print perfectly, I did not sweat it. I treat these things as I would an errant brush stroke or even an accidental smudge on a painting. i call them happy accidents. 🙂 Here I have placed the pieces inside and did not need to glue them for a couple of reasons. First, the tension held it in place very well. The second was I would take the heat gun and really work on the inside as well as use the heat and a clay modeling tool to blend the interior set into the skull cavity. This created a weld and replaced the need for any gluing. These next few pictures show the details of the parts before welding and manual sculpting of the print. You can see the dividing lines between the set pieces and between the interior set and the skull interior. I did decide to use the stringiness of this to my own advantage. You will see how in a bit. You can also see the gaps I had to fill. I did make it loose on purpose to make inserting the parts easier. It was tough enough as it was. Here you can see the beginning of the plastic welding to blend in the parts as well as blend the set parts into the base skull print. You can also see Batty's footyprints molded into the actual skull for mounting him later. Here is a closer view of the bottom of the set, but had not mounted the stalagmite tips yet. This has the stalagmite tips mounted and blended into the base of the interior. Again, printing things in tandem and with painting, differences between the PLA would not matter. Just the actual contour and strength of the b;ended parts. I took me trusty ol' 3D pen and made the stringy parts into a spider web and drew a spider right in place. Kinda looks more like a tick though. But it was an after thought and by this time, the printers were on to other projects. So, I let it go. But, you can see that there are no more seams between the interior set and the skull itself. And plastic has been pulled to hide the gaps that I left in place during printing to help with insertion. All that heat plus the pushing and pulling of plastic did cause a misfit of parts. This was something that was easily cured by careful application of heat and pushing and pulling the whole masses of plastic back into place. Now, one thing to keep in mind is that I had applied a basic primer that would work with the heat and such while allowing me to see the surfaces in a more homogeneous way. The lines that you see above were just the way the CT scan lines lined up, I guess. Other prints that came off the machines did not have this, so I am prone to thinking this was not a layer shift. The sort of odd, squiggly, circular pattern was actually the level of detail within the CT scan itself. But, by the time I got around to filling the major side lines (horizontals only) and sanding a bit, not much, and then painting, they are not really noticeable. BUT, I also did not want to obliterate them as it is the CT itself and I wanted to hold onto that a bit. Just worked to get rid of the really egregious horizontal lines. I also did not to get rid of the bumps and cracks that the CT captured and held. It is easy to wipe those out when trying to get rid of something else. After doing the clean up and adding all the after parts into the interior scene (Batty, gators, lily pads, turtle, water) the skull was back heavy and would no longer stand upright. So, I cobbled a quick stand that was sorta reminiscent of vertebrae. Then came the paint jobs, both inside and out. This was done with a brush over the primers used. I used a mixture of white, cream, Pthalo blue, Burnt Sienna and Burnt umber with just a touch of red and black to create variations in tone and push the ares of highlight into brighter areas, but also make depressions and such recede, like the eye cavities and such. All paints were acrylics. Here you can see the fixing of the mismatched contours of the main skull and cutaway. Some of the lines are still visible, but I left it as this as it lent itself to the CT scanned look without being massively distracting. And, the final interior as well. Same colours used on the interior as exterior, just different levels of each paint and, a few dabs of yellow to accent batty's bloodshot eye from being disturbed. I am doing all sorts of crazy post process stuff to learn ways to compliment a design's aesthetic idea. Coming soon, My prints of a Venom piece I designed and the differences between a straight printed and painted piece and a two color PETG and Taulman T-Glas print with huge amounts of plastic welding and such.
  13. Good evening everyone! I just received my new prusa i3 mega from Anycubic, and after some test prints and tuning settings, I wanted to print this statue: As you can see, for whatever reason, Cura decided that I need support on top of the model, not below it, which appears a little weird to me. I didn't change any settings before loading this model in, and I don't have a single clue what could be the reason for this. Does anyone have an idea? Thanks a bunch and have a great evening!
  14. Hallo zusammen, ich habe mir seit ein paar Tagen einen Ultimaker 3 extended zugelegt. Das drucken mit dem PLA direkt von Ultimaker funktioniert einwandfrei. Ich haben mir noch schwarzes PLA von RS Elektronik dazu bestellet, leider haftet das Filament nicht auf der Glasplatte beim drucken. ( Einstellungen zum Drucken Extruder: 225°C, Heizplatte: 60°C) Es rutscht immer nur hinter der Noozle her und haftet nicht richtig fest. Bei der Platte habe ich mehrere Sachen ausporbiert um die Haftung zu gewährleisten: 1. Uhu schicht (wie von Ultimaker empfolen) 2. Glasplatte immer entfettet vor dem Druck 3. Oberfläche etwas angeraut damit es evtl. besser haftet. Leider hat keiner der Versuche etwas bewirkt. Das einzige was etwas gebracht hat ist eine Schicht Kapton-Klebeband auf die Platte zu kleben. Meine Frage ist, habt Ihr irgendwelche Erfahrungen mit anderem Material ( also nicht von Ultimaker direkt). Oder gibt es irgendwelche Tricks die ich noch anwenden kann? Vielen Dank für die Antworten Gruß Robert
  15. Dunstonuk

    Tree Supports

    Hi I am trying to print a model that is Hollow inside, every time I load it into Curo with TREE supports it put these supports inside the model as well as outside the model. This will not work as the inside is inaccessible once the model is printed and I do not want a load of support material floating around inside it. How do I stop it putting supports on the inside? Also, how do I get it to raise the print head between movements, as it has caught on previous models and caused them to fall over?
  16. hi, in the course of my work I found out that I can reduce time and material If I use the option to change the slicing height for a short distance (Z), and then return the original quality definition. for example, start with original definition of .2mm for 15mm , then change it to .06 for 2mm and back again Thanks a lot Dov
  17. Hi One of our Ultimaker 2+ printers has this problem. We have changed filaments, adjusted the feeder tension at all positions. We have replaced the original tubing with a new one, consisting of the same diameters, and even checked the glass plate with a thermonuclear, and the temperatures are consistent across the glass plate However the problem still persists, and we don't know what to do. It is occurring mainly towards the back of the print, and in the pictures it looks stringy and individual layers with gaps between them. But at the front everything looks fine, all nicely stuck together, with the proper consistency. This is only happening on 1 printer. Any help and ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks Greg
  18. Today I wanted to restart my little 2GB which was quietly in his box until warmer weather is felt. I used a template set up a few weeks ago before putting it to sleep. So, I'm going to print via USB from the file.gcode that I had prepared and the extrusion head starts to want to print off the board, so that it has hit hard on the edges as well than the metal clips that hold the tray! I immediately stopped the affine impression of not damaging my nozzle more than that. However, I made sure that my model is the right size and comes back in the plateau area. What astonishes me is that the object is 10x10x10.0 mm while I had done on purpose to do a little less and also, the printing time is not displayed. Is this normal? I said that I have nothing to tweak on my axes. When I run a content file from the provided SD card, there is no printing problem. If you can help me, i really appreciated to understand ! Some The
  19. dennispo

    Who am I.jpg

     (。・`ω´・)  Daily dumb
  20. I'm printing this structure that requires nozzle toggling between support and printing part at close distance for every layer. and I'm having this persistent problem: The wall gaps seem to happen more likely close to the support portions but it also appears at the top part (orange rectangular). I've tried disabling the Retraction setting and the issue still remain. I've been done a lot of calibrations that included the Retraction which all seem to work pretty well on other models, but somehow is just only this. Please help me find the setting that I need to tweak. Thanks in advance!
  21. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
  22. For some reason my 0.4mm nozzle seems to not be able to print anything at all. When the print begins and the printer pushes out its initial bit of material before the start of the print, the material just curls up outside of the nozzle. Then, when the print actually begins (the brim), it does not stick at all to the print bed. I am using standard black PLA printing at 210C. I'm using a glass build plate and have tried leveling the build plate multiple times. Should I be printing this hotter? I am used to printing with the 0.8mm nozzle and have been also printing with the 0.6mm nozzle, however, the size of my prints are getting very small and require me to use the 0.4mm nozzle. Any help would be appreciated.
  23. For the last months I have problems getting good prints. It seems that suddenly the printer does cannot get any PLA trough the nozzle. The filament push motor (do not know the correct name) retracts and almost at the same time only drops come out of the nozzle instead of a steady stream of material. Thinks I have already done: - Cleaned the nozzle (seemed to help for some time) - Put the temperature to 225 C. (seems to help) - Bought a new nozzle (did not make much difference) - Cut a few centimetre of the bowden tube (because the end got damaged) - Put a bit of oil in the bowden tube (seems to help a bit) - Print in the front of the build plate (seems to help a bit) - Used different filament (does not seem to make a difference) But once in a while I still get prints as shown in the picture. I think I have tried everything. What else could go wrong? Please help!!
  24. Brulti

    Loss of accuracy.

    Hello everyone, I just did maintenance on my printer (grease, check axes, belt tension and so on) and I ran a couple test prints to compare with the one I did the last time, in June, and there seems to be a slight problem: as you can see in the picture below, the Z on top of the black cube on right cube is clear and has very sharp corners. This cube was printed in June after my previous maintenance. The orange cube and the black one on the left were printed today and the Z is much less defined. I had the same problem before doing the maintenance, as I was testing my 0.6 solex hardcore. The cubes in the pictures have been printed a standard 0.4 UM printcore. The ones printed with the solex 0.6 hardcore show the same problem, but worst, I guess because the diameter of the printhead is bigger. I'm not too sure what is causing this or how to solve it, any help from the community would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  25. Hi 1)So i got a brand new Ultimaker S5. But i have been noticing something unusual. S5 has a feature to pause the print if the spool is over. i had kept a print last night which had 1 hour 15 mins remaining. I woke up in the morning, expecting a neat and finished print on the build plate. But guess what, it said my filament spool was empty, however i had a full PLA filament spool. I selected continue printing, and it said 1hr 8 mins remains. This is the third time this happend in a week. PS i turn off the lights of the room where my UMS5 is. whenever i dont turn lights off, it prints well. pretty strange. 2) so after the print starts, and few layers are printed, i selected TUNE. and decreased fan speed from 100% to 52%. left it for an hour, the print seemed to change its look after some more layers. i checked again, the fan was on 100% automatically. I again changed it to 52%, and after 10 mins or so, it was back to 100%. I think it brings it back to 100% after every time it switches the print cores. Expecting some help from the community members.
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