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Found 223 results

  1. I've been having a consistent issue with my new Ultimaker 3. I'm using the Ultimaker brand of silver PLA, with its PVA as a support. However, my printer consistently leaves these deposits of PLA material, only on the back right corner of the model on the bed. It seems like it's not retracting properly when the head changes direction. I am using the UM3 default settings for temperature and retraction and such. What is going wrong?
  2. Howdy y'all. ? I run the Texas A&M University College of Architecture MakerPlace (it's a mouthful... we just call it the MakerPlace) and we bought six Ultimaker S5s to further expand our printing capabilities here. Now we have eighteen UM3s, six S5s, two Fusion3 F400-Ss and three FormLabs Form 2s. There are also two industrial-type machines that I do not directly manage but often have to talk to students/customers about: Stratasys Eden and a 3D Systems Projet 460 Plus. We're (the MakerPlace) quite new still and the purpose of the space seems to change week by week. When first I started here, the MakerPlace had a FlashForge Dreamer, a MakerBot Replicator 5th Gen, a MakerBot Replicator 2 and a Cube Trio. Half of them were down at any given point and when it was time for finals, we had students wait up to 3 weeks to get their 3D prints because of how backed up we were. Right now, we serve the students of our college and the main way people outside the college hears about us is through word of mouth. We also have a few other services that any maker space should such as vinyl cutting, tool rental and tons of table space to work. In the future, I hope we will have more specialized tools in the space like an Inventables Carvey or similar. The college has two other spaces that encompass the rest of what students need to make projects: the Woodshop and the FabLab (AKA the Ranch). The Woodshop is a large space with hand tools and power tools galore with 7 laser cutters while the Ranch has the huge tools like a new HAAS CNC machining tool, 2 full size CNC routers, CNC plasma cutting, a CNC water jet and a small warehouse that faculty members rent for XL projects. Now back to 3D printing... In the Fall of 2017 we printed around 50kg and Spring 2018 we printed closer to 80kg. We mostly print in PLA or PLA blends with the occasional co-polyester or composite blend in there. We get a lot of our filament from a supplier down the street from us, Essentium Materials. They've been a fantastic partner to work with! We use an in-house built queue (the "Dashboard") and 3DPrinterOS internally to manage the 18 UM3s and we're waiting for the S5s to be integrated into their software. Students bring us their STL files that they modeled in Revit, Rhino (most popular), or SketchUp. Then we do a little consultation to make sure their 3D print will come out like they want it and then we queue them up. Most of the time, models fit on the UM3. But last semester (spring 2018) we found that we had a line out the (virtual) door for prints on the Fusion3 printers. Next thing I knew, the S5 was announced and I knew we'd be expanding this summer, so I pitched it. The addition of the six Ultimaker S5 3D printers not only gives us more printers to run more jobs on, but we also have an increased capacity for larger jobs that would normally have to queue for the Fusion3. We've had the S5s for around 3 weeks now and they've certainly impressed me. Here's some thoughts about a few things... "What's in the box": The packaging for the S5s was pretty nice, but I think the UM3 did it better with zip tying the linear rods together to prevent shifting that happened to two of the S5s I recieved. I had to realign linear rods on my last two machines which turns out is not that difficult but I still had to do it. The Aluminum plate is not included yet which is fine by me as we primarily print in PLA that only needs some purple glue stick on glass to print well. The Tough PLA that comes with the printer is really easy to print with and comes off the bed nicely. I printed several large things (around 18 hour prints) with no supports to begin testing how well it does for long prints and the material looks great. And it also comes with a 750g spool of PVA. I prefer the 350g spools as we live in central Texas and currently the humidity inside is 47%. (PVA (and PLA for that matter) does not like high-humidity environments.) It regularly goes above 50% and it's just lovely. ? On that note, I store filament in dry-boxes with a bunch of loose silica beads in the bottom which gets down below 15% RH. I don't know specifically how low it goes as the sensors I got on Amazon only go down to 15%! Ha. I also have a PrintDry system which I use to dry out filament that's left out for a few days. Print quality: I have seen and expect these to print very similarly to the UM3 on every front and every combination of materials (PLA/PVA/Breakaway/etc). We typically print at 0.2mm layers for speed but go down to 0.1mm layers as needed by the models. The Form2s print at 0.1mm regularly and go down to 0.025mm as needed. About 50% of the architectural models we print are massings printed at 0.2mm layers and around 80mm/s that the students print in white PLA and sometimes go sand/finish in their studios. We have had a small number of failed prints on the S5 so far, several of which were because of the bug in 5.0.13 firmware that caused some false-positives in the flow sensor. I have not had any clogged nozzles yet nor "spaghetti" parts. I do not consider these printers to be "fast" by any means. The Fusion3's default speed in Simplify3D is 100mm/s and I turned up the speed in Cura for the S5 to 70-80mm/s both at 0.2mm layers and turn up the temperature +10-15C. It makes a big difference. I haven't tested how fast they could print if I turned both speed and temp. up a lot, though. The students need consistency and I found that changing a few things in the "Fast" profile and basically renaming it "Super Fast" cuts off a lot of time and some material usage. Saves money and material! Features: Better bed leveling means the nozzles touch about 12 points on the build plate to get a better "picture" of the levelness of the beds. It does take a lot longer than the UM3. I have not had to manually level them yet, but I also didn't level the UM3s when I got them for several weeks. I anticipate the same for these guys. Filament flow detection and the new feeder mech. is super awesome so far. It's saved several prints from the end of spools. It's so easy to insert material into the new feeder compared to the UM3! No more hurt fingers due to super-strong springs! Just lift the little lever and slide the filament in. Love it. The Touchscreen and new menus are beautiful. It's like using a smartphone. The new menus have pictures of actions to take during, for example, changing filament and that's fantastic. Also I love the "Printer tasks" alert. But... we didn't necessarily buy these for any of these features. One of the main reasons we bought them is to keep our process as close to the same to save on time and effort. It is a lot more effort to switch to Simplify3D when we need to print something on the Fusion3 and change materials on it etc etc than to change machines in Cura. Sure we could easily set up Cura to run the Fusion3s but then each student worker will have to make sure we're using the same version of Cura with the same start/stop gcode, and other similar settings to ensure the jobs getting done consistently. It's much easier to not do that and have the "Simplify3D computer" to slice models for the Fusion3s. Irks... I've had a few strange things happen that were easily solved. Linear rods not aligned when 2/6 printers were delivered. This was solved by contacting support and them sending me a link to Ultimaker NA Support's articles (thanks @fbrc8-erin!). I used a set of calipers to align the rods with the frame. Firmware update bug. The 5.0.19 firmware update just happened and 3/6 of the printers hung on the update process. It had the screen that said "installing update" but stayed there for hours. I was told that this happens sometimes due to a bug and after about 10 minutes of being on that screen to turn off the printer and turn it back on then do the update again. I can confirm this worked and we're all good. Banding on the Z axis. This is probably due to the location of the printers and the materials being used, but I'm still going to mention it. We printed some really tall buildings with 0% infill and no top layers to save on material when I noticed how much the layer lines were showing. It's probably due to vibrations in the structure and I'm going to add some foam padding underneath the printers to solve this. Also, white PLA is really bad at showing these lines and that's what we mainly print in! Whew. That said, please let me know if you have questions about the MakerPlace or the Ultimaker S5 or something else in the post or anything that I missed. ?️
  3. uselessimpala

    ender 3 having HORRIBLE print's

    Hello i am asking for your help. i have a creality ender 3 using amazon basics pla 1.75mm and i am getting awful prints and even worse retraction i printed a stringing test and a sponge holder, does anyone have a new cura profile i should try and retraction settings? PLEASE HEEEELLLLLPPPPP
  4. FALSF

    Tipps: Glatte Oberfläche

    Guten Abend zusammen! Mich interessiert wie eure Umsetzungen einer möglichst glatten und damit ästhetischen Oberfläche mit Tough PLA aussieht? Bei mir ist auf dem UMS5 die Seite, die auf dem Heizbett liegt immer perfekt glatt (ist ja auch nachvollziehbar) aber insbesondere an den äußeren Seiten lassen sich quasi die einzelnen Schichten zählen. 1. Gibt es neben dem Ironing (was soweit ich weiß nur für die Topschicht funktioniert) noch weitere CURA-Funktionen, die zu einer glatten Oberfläche führen? 2. Welche "Nachbehandlungen" a la 1000er Nassschleifpapier 😉 könnt ihr empfehlen? Ich freue mich über jeden Tipp und eure Erfahrungen ☺️ Beste Grüße, FALSF
  5. Leoboghozian

    Trouble with infill pattern

    Hello everyone, I hope that all is well. Recently I have been facing infill problems with my 3D prints on the Ultimaker 2+. I'm not sure why the printer is unable to finish the infill patterns. If you look at the pictures attached to this, you'll see that some of the grind lines are not complete. From the right to left, I have changed the speeds for each print to improve the quality but the infill problem keeps showing up, I'm unable to figure out why. Any help/suggestions will be appreciated. My last setting: Software: Ultimaker Cura 3.6 Material: PLA 230 C (Quality) Nozzle: 0.4 mm Layer Height: .18 mm Initial Layer Height: .18 mm Line Width: .35 mm (Shell) Wall Thickness: 1.2 mm Wall Line Count: 3 mm Top/Bottom Thickness: .8 mm Top Thickness: .8 mm (Infill) Infill Density: 20% Infill Line Distance: 5.25 mm Infill Pattern: Grid/Triangle (Material) Initial Layer Flow: 100% Retraction Min. Travel: 0.8 mm (Speed) Print Speed: 40 mm/s Infill Speed: 30 mm/s Wall Speed: 30 mm/s Outer Wall Speed: 30 mm/s Inner Wall Speed: 30 mm/s Top/Bottom Speed: 30 mm/s Travel Speed: 40 mm/s Initial Layer Speed: 30 mm/s Initial Layer Travel Speed: 30 mm/s
  6. It appears the print core has a jammed full of the extruded filament and it has continued to extrude filament for the entire print causing a mass of PLA plastic to form between the print core and the nozzle. I've found similar such errors on Ultimaker forums here and have contacted them for advise and approach to repair whilst in warranty. Has anyone been able to get this covered by warranty? What is the suggested approach, heat the PLA with an airgun and remove? The explanation on the forums is that the part failed to stick to the bed despite using the recommended settings. The part was dragged around on the bed and the nozzle kept extruding on the same large mass of plastic.
  7. Bonjour à tous, Je suis débutant dans le domaine de l'impression 3D, je viens d’acquérir il y a peu une Anet E12. Le problème que je rencontre est le suivant: à chaque fois que j'imprime une pièce (quelque soit le support configuré), les premières couches sont tout le temps ratées. Les filaments se retrouvent mal organisés, se décollent, et le début de la pièce se retrouve fragile et déformé, cela ressemble un peu à du "over-extrusion". Cependant ce problème n'apparait comme je l'ai mentionné uniquement sur les premières couches, au bout d'un certain temps, la pièce s'imprime correctement. Je ne sais pas si j'ai été assez clair, dans le doute je mets en photo des exemples pour illustrer mon problème. Si quelqu'un peut m'aider, ou me dire s'il existe une configuration optimale pour réduire ce genre de problème, je lui en serai reconnaissant. Merci par avance ☺️ PS: j'utilise Ultimaker Cura v3.6.0, et j'imprime en PLA
  8. Zmorph.curaprofile I've just got in contact with the Zmorph support to get this Cura profile, but with it the printer does not print any infill or top/bottom walls, just the shell, does someone knows why?
  9. Hi everyone, and Happy New Year! This is my first post to the forum, so I'm happy to be here, and I'm sure will learn from you all! I'm pretty much a 3D printing newbie, so consider yourself warned. Lol. However, I'm very experienced on the modelling side of things, working in Maya for over 12 yrs. So, I'm running into a very frustrating problem. I've opened an .obj file in Cura, scaled it to 140mm long, and on my Creality Ender-3 it actually prints at about 28mm long. Which is, oddly, 1/5 of the size it should be! I've changed absolutely no settings in Cura that would affect scaling to my knowledge, and I've followed the exact same exporting procedure from Maya that I did for the previous print, which scaled properly. Being a graphic artist/designer and modeler I obviously would love to create my own objects for printing, but this issue has me at my wit's end. Here is the object I'm trying to print, as seen in Maya. Here are the things I've tried thus far to no avail: - Scale the object up or down first in Maya before exporting - Convert it to .stl and then open in Cura - Attempt to "trick" Cura by scaling everything up, (printer dimensions and all) by a factor of 5. This only caused the nozzle to move off of the bed! If anyone at all could offer some help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance, -Andy
  10. My issue is is related to this issue but not identical and nothing posted to that thread has solved my problem. I have a new Ultimaker S5. Whenever I print a largish print, the S5 will pause the print occasionally because the filament flow sensor detected the filament is out when it is not out. If I continue printing sometimes it continues for a long time sometimes for a short time. If I swap out filament with the same roll it goes a bit longer usually. If I swap it out for a new roll it usually completes. I have noticed this happens more often when the filament is half empty. I am only using Ultimaker PLA filament. I have mostly used blue filament. I have tried to clean the sensor and have upgraded the firmware. I will do that all again today. I will also try different colors. I could turn off the flow sensor but that is one of the primary reasons I purchased the printer and it is an expensive printer and should work. Is this a known issue or does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks!
  11. Hi all 😃 I have not found anything in the forum, should there be a similar post, please tell the link... have big problems with the printed dimensions... Ultimaker 5s Pla Black Ultimaker normal standard settings: 0.15mm / 45mm/s (do not want to reduce the speed) Tested part: square 20x20mm and 10mm & circle 20mm and 10mm big corners: (square) should be 20mm, the middle part of the square is 20mm and if I measure the corners too, the dimensions are 20.2mm holes: (circle & square) should be 10mm, are 9.75mm (slicing tolerance & horizontal expansion doesn't work for this problem, because it changes also the external dimensions but they were ok except corners) regards, Liba
  12. Hey folks, I've got a fun 3D printing technique to share with you. Back in October of 2016 I imagined this technique and shared it via email with two fellow enthusiasts. Now I'm revisiting the topic for fun (and maybe to try to earn a little cash). It could be that in the two years since it has gotten out into the widely known culture, I don't know. Here it is in a nutshell. Let's take some filament in different colors and/or different materials and splice it into mixed segments forming a spool that varies in type along it's length. Next let's write a slicing program that begins with a certain color/material and prints with each segment onto the printed object in such a way that desired colors are printed where they are desired and printed in discard piles where they are not desired. Then we get a multicolored / multimaterial object plus a (probably) large amount of wasted filament, all printed on just a single nozzle 3D printer. That's it. There are a lot of details to discuss including ways to splice the filament, how to synch the colors, sudden or gradual transitions between colors, PLA based exotics, and probably other relevant details. If anyone would like to discuss this, here I am. Les
  13. Ertzerzul

    First benchy problem

    Hi, guys! I'm having this problem with every single benchy boat. Had the same problem with bender the robot. Looks like the thinner top of everething I'm trying to print, is weak, has many holles or is completly missing. Tryed to increase the infill to 80% or make the shell/top layers stronger but with no result. Any ideas how to make it better? (Sorry, I started with 3D printing just a week ago - anet a 8, prusa i3 mk2)
  14. Hello everyone, I am having trouble with some strange underextrusion. In some prints, maybe 1 out of 10 and in only certain parts, the PLA is extruded in little pulses that increase in frequency untill they turn into a smooth line. This always happens at the beginning of a new layer, after z-hop and retraction. Due to this the print is massively weakened at these parts and shows striations on the surface. I managed to capture this on video and also have a picture of it, but I have no idea what could be causing this, especially because it only shows up every now and then. I would be very grateful for tips and help regarding the issue. Here is the link to the video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7 Thank you very much!
  15. Hello Community, I have serious random Y layer shifting with Cura 3.6 and not with 3.5.1 I experienced several Y direction layer shift in my last prints (a 1/2 hand gun replicat, the irisbox, picture will follow). I have suspected my CR10 printer first (marlin 1.9.1) (belt tension, hard sliding point, acceleration jerk, etc....) but everything was OK or similar as other CR10 user's setting. I noticed this was happening in filling phase (very quick Y and X moves to fill space between shell). During this phase, Y motor cries and then the layer shift happen. It is happening randomly. I downgraded to Cura 3.5.1 and tried a print this morning and layer shift disappeared. But it is not logical and there no mention of acceleration modification in 3.6 version. If you have any idea ?? Did I miss something ?
  16. Hallo Leute Bei mir kommen die Prints immer nur so wie auf den bildern raus! Weis nicht wie weiter.. kann mir jemand helfen? gruss Saravana
  17. I'm using the Ultimaker 2, and I changed the value of the printing temperature to 220°C, because it didn't print at 210°C, so all the print setup is like this: Layer height: 0.15mm Priting temperature: 220°C Build Plate temperature: 60°C Print speed: 42 mm/s So with this values I printed the 3D Benchy, but the layers are not looking good. I didn't care that it looked like that, beacause at least it was printing. So I tried to print a bigger piece that was like a cone, with 180mm of the maximum diameter, but it failed at 7mm of height and stopped printing. My next attempt was this piece, that is below, with this print setup: Layer height: 0.15mm Priting temperature: 230°C Build Plate temperature: 60°C Print speed: 30 mm/s But it keeps priting bad quality of layers, so I don't know what can be wrong with the printer or the print setup.
  18. Salut salut les makers, Aprés voir résolu mes problémes de début d'impression je me retrouve avec un nouveau probléme aprés un changement de filament et dans ma maniére de positionner mes piéces sur le plateau. Le visuel ne me dérange pas plus que ça mais le vrais probléme c'est que les quotes de la piéce est complétement faussé. Je vous présente mon Wall Woble. Ceci est une porte de vapote que je place sur mon plateau en biais.C'est nécessaire afin que je puisse imprimer la vapote en une seule fois.C'est la seule pièce en biais et quand le print finis je me retrouve avec ces vaguelettes sur toutes les parois extérieur de la pièce.Elle dépasse du model d'origine et font 0.1/8mm d'épaisseur sur chaque côté donc 0.1/4 de plus sur la largeur total de mon modèle 😞Un paramètre cura ? Une courroie détendue ?J'ai vérifié la tension des courroies et ça n'as pas l'air d'être ça.Je ne sais pas trop d'ou ça peut venir 😞 Help me please
  19. 3Dprint_everthing

    printer prints layers too thin

    i just bought a tevo tornado printer , i set it up and it ran like a charm at first, But after the second print my extruder will only print the thinnest layers you can imagine and then prints in the air. I checked my code, the layer hight did not change. i checked the motor that feeds filament into the hot end. works fine. I took the hot end apart and clean out the filament, i could almost breathe through it. when i push the filament back in and push it in manually comes out just fine. only when i print do i run into this issue.
  20. Hello, I'm relatively new to the 3D printing scene and have been going through the learning process of setting up my first printer and printing a few of my engineered parts/ etc. I'm very familiar with scripting and have found my issue in the gcode, and is not a firmware or mechanical problem on the printer. I'm using Cura 3.2.1 and been having an odd issue where, on particularly large prints, the absolute extrusion value will be defined to some extremely far off value and then proceed to eject all the filament, just for it to continue that section of code (for example an inner wall) - then finally return back to the extruder value where it should have been working off from. This results in huge retractions (which i had OFF in cura, retractions were disabled) and then also where the filament re-catches...extrudes meters of filament just to "catch up" resulting in a blob of where the event occurred. Sometimes the retractions and "catching up" happens in reverse order. See pictures: (Find "Z144" and scroll down in Gcode) Is this a bug? I've tried various settings and this happens on different models as well. I've tried with and without retractions as well as combing On/Off. Layer view looks normal and also inspected at the affected layer with playback: GcodeFail.gcode
  21. Baychattan

    PLA vs Tough PLA

    I what circumstances would one use 'ordinary' PLA rather than Tough PLA, other than the larger range of colours available with 'ordinary' PLA?
  22. Coucou? Je viens vers vous pour vous exposer un problème survenu au fur et à mesure sur deux de mes machines, quasiment en même temps. Je ne sais pas si je suis devenu parano, mais j'ai remarqué depuis quelques temps que la tête d'impression dans son ensemble se met à avoir sérieusement chaud. Je remarque également depuis ce même lapse de temps que j'ai quelques irrégularités dans mon extrusion. Malgré tout, à l'affichage, la température semble stable. 2 hypothèses : - Ma buse touche la structure en métal de la tête d'impression : la chaleur se dissipe anormalement, la sonde m'indique toujours la bonne température mais il n'en est rien. La résistance de chauffe doit pousser plus fort que nécessaire pour atteindre la température ; l'irrégularité s'installe, et ça va pas du tout du tout du tout. - Il me manque cette graisse "cuivrée" entre le réceptacle en métal de l'isolant téflon et la pièce métallique carrée d'environ 3x3cm de la structure de la tête. Au fur et à mesure des démontages successifs, je n'en ai plus suffisamment à cet endroit. Je m'interroge et remet mon ignorance entre vos mains : peut-être cette graisse a-t-elle pour but justement d'isoler la buse qui transpire à 210°C du reste de la tête d'impression ? Si oui, quel en est donc la référence et où en trouver ? Un grand merci comme toujours. Antoine
  23. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  24. IvorLongarrow

    Setting Cura for a Custom Delta

    Hello to all the community! I am new here :) I have a Colido D1315 PLA 3d printer (it's a Delta) and I have always used the related software for slicing and 3d printing. Overall the prints are OK, the 3d printer is well calibrated. But since I have some issues with the quality of the printing, and even trying different settings did not help, I decide to give a try with another Slicer and so I chose Ultimaker Cura... Now, Cura doesn't have automatic settings for my 3d printer... But I can add it as Custom. The 3d printer is a Delta, I had set the parameters related to volume and area, the filament diameter 1.75 and the nozzle (0.4) As Gcode Flavor I tried the Marlin and the Griffin ( but I don't know how much impact they can have) I tried to do a first print, with the Malrlin flavor, and the print did not come out well, I stopped it at midprint because the model was ruined... With the Griffin Gcode it went better, the object was printed but the quality was poor (lots of perimeters bubble) Any suggestions on the settings? Do I have to set some other things? It the Gcode Flavor so relevant to the quality of the 3d printed object? I'am attaching some screenshot of the custom 3d printer settings.
  25. Hello Cura Community! I am having a massive problem and I haven't been able to print for a long time. This problem is that I can't save to my SD card or (removeable device) without my Cura crashing... I have the Creality CR-10 as a printer, and my cura is the newest version (3.5.1)! What happens is that when I save to my remove able device my cura crashes... the weird thing is, is that it still saves it to my Sd card but when I put it in my printer, it won't heat up the printer or anything, it's like nothing is on the file... Anything will help!! I tried to be as thorough as I could!

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