Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'PLA'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type

3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
    • Ultimaker.com feedback
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Materials
    • Modifications, third party add-ons & other hardware
  • 3D print Questions
    • Help, Tips & Tricks
    • 3D modeling software
  • Fields of Work
    • Architecture
    • Engineering
    • Manufacturing
    • Education
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Events and meetings
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages
  • Clubs used for testing's Clubs explained



Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me

Field of Work


3D printer

On The Web

Found 285 results

  1. Hello, I just got my new S5 printers, and am having some problems printing with both Ultimaker PLA and PVA. Basically, printing with only PLA works perfect, but when I try to use both, with PVA as support, the print head with PLA attached to it simply prints air, and nothing comes out. Note that I've tried cleaning it with cleaning filament, switching heads, pretty much anything of the basic solutions. When printing only with PLA everything works great, but when using both it just doesn't extrude. In cura I have the correct options: head 1 PLA, head 2 PVA (both pla and pva are Ultimaker), on the printer the same. Anything that comes to mind for my problem? Thanks a lot! Cosmin
  2. Hi! My Ultimaker S5 suddenly started extruding in the left corner and i pulling it back on my print - sometimes it result in a unusable print... It does it the same place, layer by layer. There is nothing there, in my Cura setup. I have set my UMS5 back to factory settings, but it did not help. I have attached pictures of the line that goes trough my print (is . Have anybody else tried this? I cannot find anything similar. Thank you! /Alek UMS5_Form nr 22 - facetteret kugle.3mf
  3. How can the very latest, cutting-edge design software combine with a 5,000 year old manufacturing technique to deliver outstanding weight reduction opportunities? Designing for light-weight parts is becoming more important, and I’m a firm believer in the need to produce lighter weight, less over-engineered parts for the future. This is for sustainability reasons because we need to be using less raw materials and, in things like transportation, it impacts upon the energy usage of the product during it’s service life. Lighter products mean less fuel to move them around, which can make our fossil fuel reserves go further, or make more efficient use of the renewable energies that we’re now beginning to adopt. Generative Design (GD) is the very latest design software released by Autodesk and is now included in Fusion 360, which is at the heart of their "Future of Making Things" strategy for Design and Manufacturing. It changes the way we design things and can deliver very efficient designs that deliver structural performance with optimised use of material. The aerospace industry is expected to be one of the early adopters of this technology because in that industry the cost and environmental savings from improved fuel efficiency carry the greatest rewards. Also, I see interest from the automotive industry for the same fuel efficiency reasons, but in the long term the drive for lighter weight parts could benefit many industries, even those outside of transportation. Another example of the benefits of lighter weight alongside reduced material usage is that shipping costs for parts reduce as their weight reduces, which can therefore also deliver cost efficiencies. GD is targeted initially at metal parts where the biggest opportunity for light-weighting exists. The complex forms it generates though often means that parts conceived in this way cannot be made with conventional manufacturing routes. They therefore need to use Additive Manufacturing (AM) techniques to produce them. The route of using high energy, laser-based AM to do this comes with associated high costs because of the specialised set-up knowledge required together with expensive processing, and post processing, to deliver a quality-assured part. This project explores the possibility of a more cost-effective route to a metal GD part which, even though at this stage may be just used for a small quantity of evaluation prototypes, can act as an enabler for understanding the potential that GD has to offer. This is the baseline design for this project. It is an aluminium bracket design similar to those used in aerospace applications to mount control surfaces, and in this form has not been optimised for weight. This design would weigh 383 grams in the intended material, aluminium A356. After processing this through Generative Design in Fusion 360 it’s time to review and evaluate the many alternative design options presented and decide upon the design that is considered the most appropriate taking into the other factors that have an influence on design selection such as manufacturability, aesthetics etc. This was the design option chosen for this part and Fusion 360 was used to create the final version of the model. The bio-mimicry that’s evident in most of the designs created by GD is interesting to see, in this case the design of the part can be seen as essentially a swept I-beam (which engineers, especially those in construction, are taught is a strong section), but with tendon-like attachments back to the mounting points to carry the tensile loading that’s created by the applied loading conditions What GD does is to turn the standard design workflow that we’re familiar with on it’s head. Traditionally we design a part and then stress test it virtually to determine if it fulfils the required structural performance. Any failures seen during this process require an iterative loop back to the design to correct them. With GD the stress analysis is a core part of the design synthesis, and happens as the part design iterates, which means that the output at the end should meet the requirements of the intended loading requirements. The software is searching for an optimal solution where the stress is ideally evenly distributed across the part as can be seen above. To prove that everything is good with the finalised design this part has then been virtually tested again in Fusion 360 to confirm that the original loading requirements are still met So we've created our lightweight part design, and maybe now we need to produce that in aluminium A356 to do some physical testing, but don’t want the expense of using a metal AM process. What follows is a way of achieving this where FDM 3D printing can play a role as an “enabler” to help create the final parts in conjunction with a very old (if not ancient) manufacturing technique called investment casting. This technique is 5,000 years old according to Wikipedia. The company involved with casting this project is Sylatech who have been using Ultimaker 3D printers as part of their process for investment casting of prototype parts Sylatech took the .stl file of this model and used it to create a 3D print of the part on an Ultimaker 3 in PLA. This PLA part was then used as the pattern in the investment casting process where it is submerged in plaster under vacuum conditions to ensure that all air is excluded from the mould and creates an accurate reproduction of the surfaces of the part. The picture below shows a display box which demonstrates the set up of the 3D printed parts partially encased in plaster. Once the plaster has hardened the casting box is put into a furnace at very high temperature in order to burn out the PLA, leaving behind a cavity into which molten aluminium can be cast. After solidification of the metal, and cooling of the mould, the plaster is broken away from the parts, and then they can be quickly and easily removed from the material feed gate resulting in these aluminium A356 versions of the PLA original. The final part weighs 122 grams which is a weight saving of 68% over the original baseline part, which shows the potential that GD has to make significant reductions in weight and material usage. Using this method we now we have an excellent quality physical part made very quickly in the final intended material in order to commence some physical testing.This is a different route to get to that physical test part in metal at a fraction of the cost of having it metal additively manufactured. It also shows how a brand new, cutting edge piece of software that only became available in May 2018 can combine with FDM 3D printing (which many people still see as a new technology even though it’s been around for over 20 years) and a 5,000 year old manufacturing technique to deliver potentially huge benefits in weight and material usage. Using the investment casting route in this case study is why I chose the title for this article, and shows that we can effectively go “Back To (Deliver) The Future”. Do you see the need for lighter weight parts in what you do, and can you see the potential benefits of using Generative Design and this method of producing metal parts? I'd welcome comments, suggestions, and discussion about any aspects of the above article, the next steps that I'm looking at are how this process could scale up to batch production of the parts using 3D printing techniques that could support low volume production quantities
  4. Hi! My Ultimaker S5 suddenly started extruding in the left corner and i pulling it back on my print - sometimes it result in a unusable print... It does it the same place, layer by layer. There is nothing there, in my Cura setup. I have set my UMS5 back to factory settings, but it did not help. I have attached pictures of the line that goes trough my print (is . Have anybody else tried this? I cannot find anything similar. Thank you! /Alek
  5. My ultimaker 2 prints fine up to last few layers PLA. Then suddenly it starts to print in random directions and the bed forces the printed part into the printhead and destroys the printed part. This happens with all the things i have printed recently. Please help ASAP Thank you
  6. Bonjour, Je débute sur cura car je vien d'acheter une imprimante Creality Ender3x, je travail avec archicad 22 puis j'exporte mon fichier au format STL, Je cherche à imprimer une maquette au 1/500e quand j'ouvre mon fichier STL mon modèle reste creux dans les espaces intérieurs ce qui est normale, mais mon souci ce trouve au niveau des fenêtres qui ont des parois trop fine et qui ne peuvent par être imprimé. Y aurait-il un moyen d'épaissir interieur du modèle voir de l'imprimer comme un volume plein? Merci d'avance pour vos réponses
  7. Hi there, I am experiencing some dual extrusion issues. For some reason, my printer won't print my second material on the brim. In Cura, it shows under the preview tab that it will print the second material on the brim, but the actual print shows up without the second material on the brim. I attached a couple pictures. I just wanted to test the dual extrusion capabilities on my UMS5. The red PLA was my first material and the black PLA is my second material. As you can see from the pictures, the black PLA doesn't print out in the brim. Also, I'm not sure why the red side with the black circle came out clean whereas the black side with the red circle came out stringy. If anyone knows why these things are happening please let me know. Thank you!
  8. Hello everyone, I am having trouble with some strange underextrusion. In some prints, maybe 1 out of 10 and in only certain parts, the PLA is extruded in little pulses that increase in frequency untill they turn into a smooth line. This always happens at the beginning of a new layer, after z-hop and retraction. Due to this the print is massively weakened at these parts and shows striations on the surface. I managed to capture this on video and also have a picture of it, but I have no idea what could be causing this, especially because it only shows up every now and then. I would be very grateful for tips and help regarding the issue. Here is the link to the video: https://photos.app.goo.gl/G3TLKveMsLNRQmgv7 Thank you very much! [edit by gr5: note solution was found by the original poster - see 2 message far below by author with "heart"/like icon]
  9. PLA. small object but still there's some serious wrapping. 190C at 60mm/s. Fan is at 100% and are working. other settings are more or less using default CURA fine print with skirt. What more can I do improve the print?
  10. So i just got my printer 2 weeks ago and it did a pretty good job on the first prints i've done, wich they were quite small. I started printing larger things a few days ago, wich it was what i bought the print for. And i seem to get this kind of under extrusion problem in some parts of the print, only at certain hights, because as you can see in the image it kinds of corrects itself in the next hights any guesses on how to fix this problem? ive read that it might be a problem of the retraction being set too high, but i dont think it might be that
  11. Hi, My Ultimaker 2+ (upgraded from 2), showed the following message: ERROR - STOPPED Z switch broken Go to: ultimaker.com/ER05 As you can see on the following pictures the Print Head has suffered. Could you please advise me on how to repair this Ultimaker 2+ ? Best regards, Gwendoline Erard
  12. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
  13. Hi! I am trying to do a print with multiple items. However, when I view the toolpath, it just looks all funky. It doesn't seem to be going in a logical fashion, but maybe I am not understanding some of the travel settings. Is it just choosing the fastest path? Even if it doesn't seem to be following the parts in a "strategic" order? Or should I be placing my parts on the build plate differently? Thanks in advance for all the help. These are my travel settings When it prints the brim, it starts in the bottom left, but then moves to the middle. Then when it prints the other layers, it starts in the middle of the plate
  14. Hi, I had problems printing 2 parts at the same time so I made them print one and then the other. I left, because I had to go shopping for food, and when I came back, one model was nice done ( the first one), but the other was stuck to the print bed like crazy and when I removed it and measured it with calipers in the Z direction, the second model was about 3mm lower than the other and the ultrabase below it was all scratched up and the nozzle will probably need itself being replaced. From what I saw I can surely say that something (probably cura) made the second print start 3mm below the bed level, resulting in my bed being destroyed, luckily on almost the very edge. I had it leveled and when I checked the bed screws, none were loose. Leveling the bed afterwards wasn't necessary, the bed was completely leveled and the distance between the bed and the nozzle was the same everywhere, just the very tip of the nozzle got brushed off. If it is really the Cura's fault, it should be fixed ASAP. I was very lucky I didn't print it in the center and that it was a very small object, so I don't have to replace the whole print bed due to this. Anyone has any ideas what could this be caused by? Thanks.
  15. I have a few models that after being edited and are hollow on the back side, how would I go about making it print a solid back and bottom? Essentially trying to get it to look like Mr. Solo with a good base on the bottom with a solid back so you can not see the supporting material. Any Ideas?
  16. Bonjour, Sur mes prints j'ai un problème avec la coque extérieure, la couche externe souffre de défauts trop visibles. Je ne sais pas sur quels paramètres jouer pour améliorer le rendu. Je vous met en gros plan le problème sur le bateau du benchmark.
  17. Hello. I would like some help troubleshooting some printing issues I have recently been having. My hospital got a 3D printer several months ago and we have been successful with our prints and making complex models with tough PLA and PVA support (I also attached a previous successful model printed with same settings). Recently, my models are not adhering to the print bed to itself. I have tried with PLA supports and PVA supports. I have unloaded and reloaded the filaments as well. I also reset the print settings to default. I have tried all different recommended settings with no help. My printer continues to print strings that are not adhering to anything. Sometimes it starts to adhere to bed and then fails or will not adhere to plate at all. The only causes I can think of are the following: Filament hydration? I am in New Mexico, an arid climate but do not store the filaments in a desiccator. Perhaps this is the issue? Settings not correct? Print speed too fast? We recently tried ninjaflex 3.0 mm and did not have any success with this. We attributed this to the size of 3.0mm. Print head clogged? The print heads seem to be extruding fine... Should I be doing regular cleaning?
  18. Hallo zusammen! Da REC Filamente auffallend günstig sind im Vergleich zu den meisten anderen Anbietern, wollte ich kurz mal Eure Erfahrungen mit dem Hersteller erfragen. Ich habe bisher REC PLA in weiß und blau ausgiebig getestet und musste leider feststellen, dass immer wieder Rollen dabei sind, welche scheinbar Verunreinigungen enthalten und dadurch die Düse verstopfen. So geschehen in den letzten paar Tagen bei weiß und blau. Liegt also nicht nur an einer Farbe und ist bisher auch bei keinem anderen Filament, welches wir verwendet haben, passiert. Betroffen sind auch verschiedene Drucker, sodass es definitiv am Filament liegt. Die Düse ist derart verstopft, dass man nicht einmal bei 230 °C per Hand mit hohem Kraftaufwand Filament durchgeschoben bekommt. Hatten wir jetzt einfach nur mehrmals Pech oder könnt Ihr diese Erfahrung bestätigen?
  19. Hallo zusammen! Auf der Suche nach dem richtigen Blauton für unsere Muster bin ich auf ein extrem stark haftendes PLA gestoßen. Für uns absolut unbrauchbar da die Reinigung der Glasplatte knappe 20 Minuten gedauert hat. Es ließen sich nur kleine Stücke lösen und das auch nur mit hohem Kraftaufwand. Wer allerdings ein PLA sucht, welches richtig gut haftet, kann mit der Suche aufhören. Die genaue Bezeichnung lautet Polymaker PolyMax PLA und ist mit 44,95 Euro schon sehr teuer für 750g. Qualitativ konnte ich im Druckergebnis jedoch keinen Unterschied zu REC Filament feststellen, welches im Vergleich mit 19,95 Euro pro 750g das günstigste Filament im Test war. Fazit: Haftung auf Glas ist extrem hoch und das Druckergebnis ist in Ordnung, rechtfertigt aber nicht den mehr als doppelt so hohen Preis im Vergleich zu REC.
  20. Hey all At my work we have an Ultimaker 3e and we have had some problems it. at the moment we have a problem we cant seem to find the solution for. Sometimes a print will get wierd looking underextruded walls in model specific places. At the pictures the problem is shown on the indside walls, while the outside walls looks fine. we use PLA and the stock settings for ultimaker 3e in cura. To me it looks like a softeware issue, but im not sure.
  21. I am printing somefairly small miniatures and their legs always give me headache for printing. The above image shows the layer shift on the legs. I am using UM3 with PLA, most of the time my prints are fine but when it comes to small things and structure like this it seemed to fail. The adhesion is okay, but after a while the nozzle started to sort of knock the legs around a bit causing a layer shift during print. I have been printing slow at 30mm/s. I have checked the belt and they are tight. I have done manual leveling on buildplate just in case. Switching materials(brands) doesn't seem to hv differences, and this is some good eSun filament. none of the above action help. So I am going to show you how i slice my STL, see if i done sth wrong there. I have tried different ways and both still have layer shift issues. The first one with support interface enabled, support enabled, support brim enabled, tree support enabled, and increased 40% support density. The nozzle would knock on the printed legs and cause layershift mid-way, usually on one of the legs. The second one is on same settings but with a manually added cube printed as support. This one has less major layershifts but lot of minor shifting along the print, the result is shown in the first photo. Any good advice?
  22. I am usually printing small figurines so i didn't walk into much warping issues. until now that i have to print a box-like object with a large base. It seems the normal default print settings that worked in the past doesnt fit now. I was printing with mostly default "fine" profile on UM3 with 0.4 nozzle PLA 185C at 50mm/s, with a Brim, 60C build plate as usual. Sometimes the base of the model will warp up so far as it lift some of the brim around it off the build plate. Lot's of tutorials out there talk about wrapping issues, some mentioned very different/contradicting solutions, but I still fail to perfect my print. Printing with lower temperature sometimes cause even more warping/lifting the brim, that's to my surprise. I am wondering if printing slower factor into issue?
  23. Hi everyone, *** EDIT: For clarification the filament is only stripping when running a dual colour print. I've been able to run single colour prints from both nozzles without any issues using this filament. *** I'm having issues with the drive gears stripping filament on a dual colour PLA print. It seems to happen at random - both nozzles will be printing fine for a couple of hours and then out of nowhere one or the other will start having massive underextrusion and the filament will look as slightly torn up over a 10-15cm span out of the drive gear housing, and then the fatal groove where the gear finally ate too much. I'm using a "glitter" filled PLA with the 0.4mm AA print cores at 200C and 70mm/s. Here's a list of things I've tried to save people time suggesting things I've already done: - Changing the tension on the drive mechanism. I've tried it real tight, real loose and everywhere in between and the only thing affected is how much the filament gets chewed. - Thoroughly cleaning out the drive mechanisms, including cleaning the gears down. - Cold pull cycling the nozzles. I don't think the issue is clogged nozzles as filament extrudes freely without cleaning the nozzle out each time I have a problem, but I tried this anyway. - Changing the standby temperature from 100C to 160C and a couple of stages in between. - Changing retraction distance, limit and speed to try to limit the number of times the filament was run over the drive gear in the same place. Feel free to suggest any settings you know to work well for 2 colour prints as I'm not sure I've covered all the options on the retraction side of things! If anyone has seen this before or has any new ideas that'd be extremely helpful, thanks in advance! Glen
  24. Hallo, ich habe nun seit Tagen das Problem das das Filament (Ultimaker Silber Metallic welches zum Ultimaker dazu war) nicht mehr auf dem Druckbett hängen bleibt. Ich habe schon einiges probiert wie zb. den Feeder sauber gemacht, diese Atomic Cleaning Methode oder wie diese heißt, neues Tape drauf gemacht, das Druckbett mehrmals neu eingestellt... aber alles hat nicht geholfen. Ich habe vorher (einige Tage her) schon einiges mit dem Filament gedruckt was auch, bis auf die erste Schicht, immer ziemlich gut gelungen ist aber nun Spinnt der Drucker irgendwie komplett rum. Ich habe mal ein Video gemacht damit ihr seht wie das aussieht bzw. das er da für ein misst Produziert ^^ Da sieht man das er am Anfang des Skirt schon eine kleine Lücke hat was mich aber so nicht stört. Anfangen tut es dann bei dem ersten Schraubenloch. Der größere Kreis ist auch nicht komplett. Die Außenwände sehen dann wieder gut aus. Der Höhepunkt ist dann aber dieses andere Loch oben Rechts was erst mal überhaupt nicht haften will. Wie gesagt ich habe schon das Druckbett mehrmals mit versch. Abständen neu eingestellt und getestet aber jedes mal kommen diese Probleme wieder. Ich habe auch mal den gCode mit angehangen von diesem Objekt. Cura Version ist die 3.6.0 Ich hoffe ihr könnt mir helfen denn ich bin echt mittlerweile am verzweifeln. Air20_Front.gcode
  25. Hello guys! Recently I've experienced some extrusion issues with the ultimaker 2 extended+ I have at work. The machine is around three years old and has ran day and night in some cases, but I always did my maintenance!. As the images show the extrusion stops mid print at random heights.. To prevent this form happening I've replaced the PTFE Coupler and tube, nozzle and heating element, all of them original ofcourse. At the moment im printing with a 0.6 nozzle at different layer heights (0.2-0.3) as I am printing quite large objects. Some prints succeed but most of them fail and I'm at this point were im out of ideas.. The filament should be okay since I've used it for a long time without any issues. It seems that the nozzle clogs most of the times because when I push some filament through by hand to clean the nozzle a watery drop of filament falls out of the nozzle. This is quite strange as this just randomly started to happen, didnt change the temperature or anything really in cura. Increasing the temp and/or material flow during the print gives a temporary fix but will fail mostly in the end anyway. Soo, has anyone experienced the same issue and maybe has a solution?. Thanks in advance! Loek
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!