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  1. Bonjour à tous, Depuis le Covid de nombreuses pièces imprimées sont en contact avec la peau : visières, pinces nez, masques... Aussi je me pose des questions concernant l'innocuité des filaments 3D. Pensez-vous que le PLA ou le PETG ne posent pas de problème cutané ? Que pensez-vous des élastomères ? Avez-vous une expérience des matériaux biocompatibles ? Merci.
  2. Hi Everyone, I have recently had some bad luck printing with Ultimaker PP. I use an Ultimaker 3 (with the most up to date firmware & cura) with ultimaker PP. I have done these prints many times before but recently have had no success. The prints always start off well but towards the middle to end of printing it starts to get splotchy. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John
  3. Hi everyone, I have a problem with the printing of PP: at some point during the printing, the material inflow or something stops, resulting in frayed endings. This sometimes happens at the beginning of a print (see picture 1 and 2) or when the print is more at the end (picture 3). I have tried to solve this by changing the printing temperature, the printing speed, and the layer height, but it doesn't work. Does anyone know some more actions I can try? Thanks in advance!
  4. I searched around the forums and could not find much information on my particular issue. I have UM brand Polypropylene and I simply cannot get a part to print well. I am using UM adhesion sheets, which are amazing, and do NOT have any bed adhesion problems. However, after the first 10-20 layers or so the nozzle starts to clog and I get severe under extrusion that results in just little wisps coming out of the nozzle. I started with all Ultimaker defaults, increased temp, lower temp, 0.1mm and 0.2mm layers, 30mm/s speed, 70mm/s speed. The filament doesn't make any popping noises or anything,
  5. For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  6. I'm about to change material on my ultimaker 2+ extended but just as i'm putting the material in the interface I see no option for PP. On this page https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus it's says it's not optimized for it and on this page https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility?utm_source=cura&utm_medium=software&utm_campaign=resources it's says that it can ???? My firmware is up to date also. Do I choose a random material and change it right before printing?
  7. We need to make some pieces for our laboratory that can be cleaned with organic solvents. Where can I find truthful information about the resistance of the various filaments to these solvents? The ideal would be in Nylon but we need to know if we can use other materials easier to print than Nylon. We have printed on Nylon but it still gives us warping problems. We print it in the UM3Extended. It has a door and lid and we pre-dry the Nylon and the PVA in the stove at 60º. During printing we cover the printer with a thermal blanket to avoid currents and temperature changes. Thanks in advance
  8. Guys, this is awesome. To be sure I read everything about build plate adhesion, temperatures, enclosures, warping etc. just to find a nearly flawless print with default cura settings (except 100% infill, 3mm wall). I used the Advanced Kit with its enclosure and adhesion sheets. A cardboard case on top kept the heat. That's all. Wonderful. Thank you, Team Ultimaker! (The PP is a bit harder than TPU. Hard to rip apart. The brim is crumpled after removing it. And you will get a nice matte surface from the Adhesion Sheet. (No bed leveling after putting it on.) )
  9. I can't get PP to stick to the build plate at all. I'm using the default Cura settings for PP, an adhesive sheet, an AA 0.4 head, and Fine printing. The brim doesn't even stick. Suggestions?
  10. Hello, I'm a new UM2+ user as of about 3 weeks ago. I'm attempting to print some thin shelled parts, with a living hinge, out of UM PP material and I cannot seem to get good results. I understand that PP is one of the more difficult materials to print with. The issue I am having is with the support structures and any overhangs. The supports and infill look very messy and almost failed. I've tried a number of different types of supports and infill and varying amounts of infill. Any flat overhanging surface either fails or is pillowing (blistering) very badly. The first couple of layers and t
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