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Found 75 results

  1. Servus! Arbeite mich gerade in unseren neuen UM3 ein und habe bisher noch keine Druckerfahrung. Unser PVA macht mir als Stützmaterial ziemliche Probleme. Anfangs sieht die Stützstruktur noch gut aus und wird meistens schnell zur Katastrophe. Vor allem wenn die Struktur filigraner wird funktioniert der Druck nicht mehr. Ich glaube er lässt kleine Lücken zwischen neuen Linien in einer Schicht. Zusätzlich bilden sich kleine Tropfen in der Struktur und wenn es ganz schlecht läuft, räumt der Druckkopf dann sogar das ganze Modell von der Druckplatte. Da ich auch mit sämtlichen Einstellungen kein besseres Ergebnis bekomme, die Frage an Euch, wie kann ich das abstellen? Gruß Andy
  2. Bonjour, J'ai récemment acheté une nouvelle buse BB, pour remplacer mon ancienne qui était HS. J'ai pris une buse BB 0.8, au lieu de la 0.4 que j'avais avant. Je rencontre un problème lorsque je l'installe, l'imprimante me dit qu'elle n'est pas compatible avec le PVA, alors qu'elle est faite pour ça, et que j'ai bien le PVA classique de la marque Ultimaker pour lequel elle est optimisée. (cf photo) Quelqu'un a déjà rencontré un problème similaire ? Merci d'avance
  3. Hello Makers of the Ultiverse, I am using a S5 Printer for my work. After a couple of printings, the BB print core with the PVA is on the outside of the nozzle black. It Looks a bit burned of the filament or some dirt of the black tough PLA. I dont know. For this, I want to clean the nozzle. Do you have some instructions how to clean it? Cotton swab with acetone maybe?
  4. Hi. I have been facing this issues since some time now. The PVA Support material does not print well. I Store the PVA in sealed bag when not in use, also, i have just opened this filament maybe a week back. When i use the same spool on my UMS5, it supports really well. I really need some help in sorting this out. The support seems to underextrude at some layers, but then it fixes itself on other layers. Would really appreciate some help from the community. Thank Abdu
  5. Hello All, In need of some serious help. Please let me know if i should split this into multiple threads. I recently started 3D printing with my Ultimaker 3 Ex and I have ran into quite a few issues with my first few prints. The first issue was when I tried printing with PVA support. The result is on the first few pictures attached. My assumption was a plugged nozzle so I cleaned everything and when on to try a different print. This was the second one attached which I aborted about 10-20% of the way through due to what I am assuming is either underextrusion or some other issue causing the PVA to not attach to itself. Both of these were done with a 0.4AA Nozzle and 0.2 Layer Height. I then decided to attempt the same prints again (Both the first and the second one). But run a test on Nylon support with it, I also wanted to try a quicker print so I went with a 0.8AA Nozzle and 0.4 Layer height. I know these are a lot of changes but I am really trying to learn my way around ideal centerlines through cause and effect. Even though it maintained most of its structural integrity this print had quite a few issue's which I dont fully understand. I attached pictures of this last print. It looks like overextrusion or mistakes, leaving a substantial amount of material around and a less than desirable general quality of print. Im at a loss on what I am doing wrong or what I am missing for all these prints. Any kind of help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks a ton.
  6. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    🙂Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine😃. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over😲. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. 🙏Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  7. PVA....Cannot live without it, cannot shoot the nozzle when it clogs.... Requirements: Patience aplenty Airbrush needle or something like that with a nice teeny tiny point. Issues to overcome: When printing and humidity strikes midprint, especially on long ones like I do on a constant basis Humidity will clog the nozzle as PVA pops and crackles, creating a carbonized mess inside as well as outside the nozzle If you pause the print to try this, it will not work because the nozzles cool down and you cannot adjust the temp more than +- 25¯C. By this time, the material is too cool to do anything with. *Are you hearing this firmware devs? OK, now this is an issue that has plagued me ever since I started printing. AND continues to plague the industry as a whole. It is an unavoidable evil that must be dealt with. It does not matter whose PVA you are using.....it will happen. The main warning sign is when the material is not printing like a solid wall, but starts to get very lacy. At this point, it cannot hold the material it is supporting and you may not discover this until the print is done and you just have a lot of time, material and expense down the drain. SO! what to do, what to do..... For some reason it occurred to me tonight that the solution (klugey as it may be) is to fake out a material change. Even if you have a brand new spool of PVA in there, if there is a clog, it will still not give full PVA service to the supports. So, here are the steps 🙂 1. Go to the 'tune' menu and initiate a material change. This will heat the nozzle to the proper temp and hold it. It will also pause all printing ops and step you through all steps of replacing materials. 2. Once your material unloads, leave it at that stage. This will keep the temp up while not letting anything continue until you go to the next step. 3. Poke the heck out of it with the airbrush needle or something similar. Just be careful not to poke out the delicate nozzle tip..... 4. Take older leftover PVA, like those bits when it was changed out and leaves the parts that were in the bowden tube, and push it though. 5. Rinse and repeat until you get a clean thread of PVA going through. 6. Reload your PVA and start back up. 7. As it reloads, you will see a nice thread of material squishing out. This is not as good as a hot and cold pull, but it can save a long print. It should also be mentioned that this is also available for the S5 as well. The best solution would be something to allow a pause and temp control to the extremes that hot and cold pulls require to really get it out. *Ahem* firemware devs 😉 Some may say that keeping the nozzle clean is the answer.....it is until you have a really long print, the humidity rises and starts to degrade the printing of PVA during that time. It can happen. It has happened to me as I do these massively long prints. Start with a clean nozzle and 5 days later, humidity strikes, and the lace pattern appears as the PVA starts to underextrude. So, happy PVA supports all around fer everyone!! WOOHOO!!!
  8. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
  9. DRIPrinter

    PVA help

    Hello! Im having some difficulties printing with PVA, specifically using it as a support when printing PLA. I keep my spool in a locked ziploc bag with two small bags of silica gel: I tried a small test print only out of PVA before trying dual PVA/PLA and it turned out all right: However the print with PVA support looks very brittle and it seems as if the two materials aren't adhering to each other very well (to me at least): With the dissolved PVA and the removed Brim it looks like this: Any advice to improve the print quality? This is what it was supposed to look like (on Cura):
  10. Hello! I've just started trying to print with PVA, at first supports on some PLA prints but seeing as that didn't work, I've been trying to print some PVA-only small test prints to see if I could solve my problem. For the two prints in the photo, I used Cura recommended settings, and I? was hoping for some expert advice on what is wrong and what settings I should use. Thank you!!
  11. Hey there. I got great help last time, so hopefully will do so again. 🙂 I'm printing lots of stuff on ABS with PVA support and have noticed, particularly on jobs where i DO generate support, that stuff is already cracking. I can take pics if needed, but don't really know how else to explain it. It's a completely flat surface with a hairline fracture in it. And there are several like it on each side of the object. And then yesterday we were printing a plane for another project and as it was printing the support, the support was coming up off the bed as it got thicker, which then made that side of the tail curve upward when it should have been flat. Is there something special to using the PVA support and / or ABS? I'm selecting those materials from the menu when I load them. The PVA is ultimaker branded, but the ABS is an off brand but has been fine on jobs without support. Thanks.
  12. Hi everyone, I'e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA on my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, and while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized it was stuck in the feeder. Then I removed the bowden tube at both ends, removed the PVA filament from the printhead, and cut the filament under the feeder. But I still couldn't remove the filament, whatever side I pulled on : I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the spool was left out in the open air for more than one month. But I still don't know how to remove the filament from the feeder. May be I could try moistening the filament in the feeder to soften it and remove it more easily ? Or will I have to disassemble the feeder completely ? Any ideas ? Thanks !
  13. I can't understand how to reduce the violence with which UM3 prints the PVA support... In the last print, where I used the recommended settings for PVA+PLA prints at T-2days for the model to finish (6 days) the bed have been catapulted out from its holding springs. On top of that the magnetic pins holding the cooling fan of the print head opened down and started scratching against the print bed. The only way I found to prevent this is not to use the "print support" option, but rather run a 2-materials print where I draw the support myself... Also it seems that I cannot stop the print remotely anymore with the latest version of cura (3.3.1) which would be something extremely handy in these situations
  14. Bonjour à tous, J'ai un gros problème concernant ma dernière impression avec du PVA sur l'ultimaker 3 : l'impression a cessé d'extruder après plus d'1 heure d'impression, et en voulant retirer le filament de PVA je me suis rendu compte qu'il était coincé dans le feeder. J'ai ensuite retiré le bowden tube des deux côtés, puis retiré le filament de la tête d'impression, et coupé le filament en dessous du feeder, mais malgré cela et en tirant dans les deux sens, impossible de faire bouger le filament : Je suspecte que ce phénomène pourrait être dû au fait que la bobine est restée à l'air libre pendant plus d'un mois, le matériau a pu être dégradé par l'humidité ambiante. Toujours est-il que je ne sais pas comment me sortir de là. Peut-être que je peux essayer d'humecter le filament dans le feeder pour le ramollir et l'extraire plus facilement ? Ou faut-il que je démonte entièrement le feeder ? Vous avez des idées ? Merci d'avance !
  15. BairdB

    Oven Drying Saftey Concerns

    For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  16. PAFablab

    Not sticking

    Upon trying to print something a little harder than the Ultibot, (gyro by vitrox), my Ultimaker 3 is running into some problems. The PVA is not adhering to the print plate and during the start of the printing cycle the extruder for PVA (print core 2) deposits so much PVA material around the print core that it forms a mass or ends up dragging the material around as it tries to print. Can anyone help with this problem?
  17. I have a fairly new UM3E and the only issue I'm currently having is that printing PVA supports is not working well. I'm only using Ultimaker filament and I've only printed from the same reel of PVA on the BB core. After printing Benchy and a couple of other prints, the PVA printing from print core 2 - the BB 0.4 (extruder #2) that came with the printer, has stopped extruding material. The first time this happened I followed the printer cleaning directions from Ultimaker using Ultimaker cleaning filament. I removed a lot of black carbonized gunk and was able to get the PVA to extrude a little. On my last print I noticed that the PVA filament had broken near the extruder. After more cleaning and no PVA extruding from the BB core I decided to post here. I've been using the defaults in Cura, Cura is auto recognising the Ultimaker filament. I took a look at replacement BB cores but at EUR 165 maybe I need to just replace the brass nozzle(?). I expect something is out of adjustment because of the broken filament. In the mean time, I'm getting good print quality out of the AA core (extruder #1) without supports. What sort of performance should I expect with PVA and the BB core, what tweaks could I make to improve my experience with the PVA? Are there any other cleaning techniques beyond the hot/cold pull to clean/fix my BB 0.4 core and how do I clean the nozzle? Attaching photo of the current state of the core nozzle. The AA core (extruder #1) nozzle looks like shinny brass - not sure why so much PVA material is collecting on the BB nozzle but I'm knew to this and probably making a rookie mistake. Thanks. Larry
  18. I am printing a bracket (shaped like a wide V or sort of batwing), dimensions about 7 inches long and .75 inches high (180 mm x 19 mm). Using Ultimaker PLA with Ultimaker PVA support with 0.1mm layer height using (latest Cura and UM3+. The final print is only .69 inches (17.5 mm) instead of .75 inches, so the Z is off by a lot. I measured before dissolving the support, so it's not warping. I can't show the whole part because it's a corporate design, but here are some images which I think show enough. The only idea I have is PVA shrinkage during print (maybe water content, material pops a little during print, but doesn't seem soft or sticky and it adheres fine) Any suggestions what is the cause? Thanks.
  19. Alex L

    PVA support issues

    Just got our lovely new Ultimaker 3 up and running and we are tying to print a massing model which has balconies, seems like the perfect use of the PVA support material but Cura does not want to support the balconies without placing PVA support almost everywhere as the attached images. Is there some setting to stop it printing PVA where it is clearly not needed?
  20. Maid_DeLa_Mer

    Massive clog/PLA explosion

    Howdy All! I'm desperately looking for some help and advice, because I suspect my UM3E is about to be out of commission for a hot minute. I started a print last night using glow in the dark PLA from MatterHackers and Ultimaker PVA, and when I returned to work this morning, chaos had struck. The glass plate had been pulled out of it's socket, there were globs of PLA everywhere, and the entire print head kit has been filled in with PLA. It's so bad that the print head fan bracket has been pushed open and twisted to the left. Any chance that this is something I can fix, or do I need to bite the bullet and prepare myself for a costly repair/replacement bill? Also, any idea how/why this happened? I'd like to avoid such a horrible situation in the future if at all possible...
  21. I've had my U3 for about 8 months now, but I've mostly just been running dual extrusion PLA prints. I haven't printed with PVA in about 6 months. I went to swap out print cores today so that I could to a print with some PVA and I am unable to remove the core. I remember it being tough to pull out before, but both myself and a number of students have been unsuccessful this time. I'm wondering, does it have anything to do with the different heights of the cores (seen in attached pictures). Printcore 1 is held higher as if it was going to be printing from printcore 2.
  22. Dear Ultimaker Community, I'm having some problems printing complete structures with PVA, which I want to use as a sacrificial mold for further research, but also when I use PVA solely as support material. During printing, oozing results in bad quality prints and thus a low quality mold, but I also notice that my buildplate lies full of small parts of PVA (schrapnel) after printing (see pictures 1 and 2). I try to print a porous structure consisting out of cubes, which need to have support between them (see picture 3). The dimension of the support is often very small, around 2-4 mm wide. After printing the support part, some PVA is still extruded from the nozzle creating these small schrapnel. When the printer changes his printcore from PVA to PLA, this schrapnel that hangs from the BB 0.4 printcore touches the print and detaches. Most of the time, these parts are distributed over the buildplate and are not a problem, but sometimes they stick to the print and are integrated in the final structure when the next layer of PLA is printed over them. I've read already the humidity problem, which might be an issue in my case. Are there any other reasons that might cause this problem? Are there ways to solve this? I also notice a lot of oozing problems when printing with PVA as build material. Might it be possible that PVA is not optimized for this and only works as support material? Kind regards, Fréderick
  23. Ok, before I start, let me say that there are a gazillion great things out there to print that can do what I describe below. I purchased these products because: (A) Time considerations And (B) Would rather take the filament and use expensive stuff for other things. One item I purchased as the "Print Dry" setup. The second thing is that I got the Polybox from Polymaker. I just came off a huge job and just got around to setting things up today. I did get the Printdry setup a week ago and did put my PVA in there to 'slow cook' and just let it sit while the printer finished a 6 day print and I finished the job. The Polybox is super easy to put together. It is mostly all done, just putting the battery in the thermo-hygrometer, Dropping the desiccant into its compartment and slapping some bearings on the rollers for the spools. And it has made a huge difference. First off, no more crackling and popping on the PVA. The PVA is solid and not 'webby' like it used to be. So, the PrintDry took some really humidity absorbed PVA and rejuvenated it. That is very pleasing. Even with the low humidity we had over the last week, it still is an improvement. The Polybox feeds very well and solves one of the issues I had with oversized spools and that has made a difference. It comes with a bowden tube to feed from the box to the feeder and due to it being a straight feed from the spool out to the feeder on the UM3E, I do not get binding like I used to. I never really got that with low weight spools, but some that I buy are not configured to get on the UM3E's feeder arm properly and the filament guide. All in all, I have noticed a marked improvement on the PVA and think it may be helping the PLA not have humidity as well. So, if you have troubles with your PVA at least (or really any other hygroscopic filaments) I suggest you make a dry box or purchase one. The Print Dry has excellent temp controls and does not require killing hours from printer use just to heat the buildplate and dry out the filament. Not a review, but a referral to the need to dry out the filament and at least make your own. It really does make a difference. While I hang my head in maker shame for not making my own, now I do not have to kill a bit of time and filament and can go on with my own designs and ideas.
  24. Hi people, I was happy to buy an Ultimaker 3 Extended last week, with the 0.4 mm print heads. I also bought a 750 g spool of transparent Ultimaker Nylon. I use the latest Cura 3.2.1 (which is super slow on Windows 10, by the way), and also updated the printer's firmware. But since then I run into a number of issues. Firstly, I tried printing the Ultibot design that came with the provided USB stick (so, default parameters), using the supplied PLA and PVA. PVA was extruding well from the BB head, but PLA was not from the AA head. Then, I switched to nylon. This worked well with PVA. So, I decided to print a custom design of a cylinder that has an internal structure. I sliced a small part of this (40 mm height) in Cura with the default parameters for Nylon and PVA. I was surprised to see how bad the result was. While the outer wall printed well, the internal structure did not look right, with nylon and PVA mixed randomly. At the end, after having it submerged in water for a few days, the whole internal structure just melted away. As indicated by others, the print became bendy as well after being in water for days. Assuming the structure was too thin to be printed properly, I changed the design by thickening the internal walls to 0.8 mm, and changed several Cura parameters. Specifically, I reduced line widths to 0.35 mm and the print speed to 30 mm/s or less, I increased the infill density of Nylon to 100% and the support density to 15%. Everything else was just the default. According to some online posts, these are sufficient to improve the quality of the print, while not spending loads of PVA. So I went for the full design (156 mm height). After almost 3 days, this stopped close to the end (not sure when exactly) and the printer showed an error: "The X or Y axis is stuck or the limit switch is broken". So, I discovered that the X axis switch is broken and needs replacement. But let's forget about this for now... The print stopped ~1-2 mm before finalizing. The prime tower fall at probably the middle of the print, and the cylinder was obviously missing a lot of support on the sides. After melting the PVA in water for a few hours, a big chunk (4-5 cm) from the top was... not there! So for the last several hours it was only printing with PVA. There is still plenty of Nylon on the spool. Honestly, I am quickly losing my faith to the printer, or this technology in general. Does anybody have any suggestions to solve the printing quality issues, at least? What would be the best approach for Nylon and PVA? Maybe use a different material? Thanks.
  25. Hi, I just got my UM3 Extended and I did my first robot print and it turned out pretty good. This was after setting the nozzle switch position, manually leveling the base, then performing the auto level, and calibrating the xy. I am now printing my first actual print and I am getting stringing and burning with my PVA. What should I do to fix this? I used the standard fine settings @ .1mm layer height. I have read I need to look at retractions and right now the settings are as follows Retraction Distance: 6.5mm, Retraction Speed: 25mm/s Retraction Retract Speed: 25mm/s. These are all untouched. I am printing PLA with PVA supports. Please see the attached photos for the stringing. Is there a way to change just the second nozzle retraction? Or is there only one setting for both. Lastly the humidity in the building is around 42% and the temp is 72. Thanks in advance

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