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Found 101 results

  1. Servus zusammen! Kennt jemand eine praktische Lösung das PVA nach dem Auflösen im Wasser wieder halbwegs zu binden? Wir verwenden relativ viel PVA für unsere Drucke und früher oder später kommt natürlich alles in den Abfluss, was mir nicht ganz gefällt. Wenn ich Zeit habe, lass ich es in einer Kiste austrocknen, dann kann ich einen dicken Lappen PVA am Schluss wegschmeißen. Gruß Andy
  2. Hello, I just got my new S5 printers, and am having some problems printing with both Ultimaker PLA and PVA. Basically, printing with only PLA works perfect, but when I try to use both, with PVA as support, the print head with PLA attached to it simply prints air, and nothing comes out. Note that I've tried cleaning it with cleaning filament, switching heads, pretty much anything of the basic solutions. When printing only with PLA everything works great, but when using both it just doesn't extrude. In cura I have the correct options: head 1 PLA, head 2 PVA (both pla and pva are Ultimaker), on the printer the same. Anything that comes to mind for my problem? Thanks a lot! Cosmin
  3. Hi there, I'm trying to print a part with an overhang and I really want to use PVA as my support material. I'm not sure if it's my printer or the material itself but it seems like my printer doesn't like printing PVA. I've attached some pictures of how my print when and honestly non of the PVA was sticking to my build plate. I believe that is due to a lack of PVA printed during the brim step. In Cura it shows the PVA on the brim but when it prints, there is not PVA part of the brim. I've only gotten the PVA to behave once before. I've noticed that whenever my printer tries to print PVA near the build plate, no filament comes out. The print head goes over the correct "tool path" but the PVA material doesn't extrude from the print head. If anyone knows what's going on, please let me know. Thank you!
  4. Hello, I am new to Ultimaker and 3D-Printing. I am interested in Nylon/pva printing. I read a lot here about problems with filament drying and moisture protection. There are solutions like Polybox from Polymaker. But when using that,the original filament holder is unused. No use of NFC- filament detection. So wouldn't it be better to build a cover that is attached to the S5 back. It would contain a silicea pack and would hold the spools dry in their original positions. By the way: For the price of an S5 it would even nicer if Ultimaker build such filament cabinet into the S5 unit. Regards Hans-Peter
  5. Hi folks The build plate of my brand new Ultimaker S5 undergoes active leveling before each print. It results in either of my 2 extruders over or under extruding. Is there a way i can disable this active levelling process before each print, as i personally prefer manual leveling. The prints doesnt look that cool compared to the price i paid for this printer. Hope there is a solution to this.
  6. Hello. I would like some help troubleshooting some printing issues I have recently been having. My hospital got a 3D printer several months ago and we have been successful with our prints and making complex models with tough PLA and PVA support (I also attached a previous successful model printed with same settings). Recently, my models are not adhering to the print bed to itself. I have tried with PLA supports and PVA supports. I have unloaded and reloaded the filaments as well. I also reset the print settings to default. I have tried all different recommended settings with no help. My printer continues to print strings that are not adhering to anything. Sometimes it starts to adhere to bed and then fails or will not adhere to plate at all. The only causes I can think of are the following: Filament hydration? I am in New Mexico, an arid climate but do not store the filaments in a desiccator. Perhaps this is the issue? Settings not correct? Print speed too fast? We recently tried ninjaflex 3.0 mm and did not have any success with this. We attributed this to the size of 3.0mm. Print head clogged? The print heads seem to be extruding fine... Should I be doing regular cleaning?
  7. There are scratches everywhere but I am mostly worried about getting rid of that blob of PLA. I tried heating the printcore up to 210C for 10 minutes but to no avail. Any ideas of how to get rid of it without damaging any vital parts?
  8. The PVA doesn't seem to sticks well to PLA now with the current update. It works well before the 4.0. Mind that this is for new PVA and new PLA, moisture doesn't play a part here. And as the PVA doesn't sticks well, it travels throughout the model while printing, and get caught in midway thus leaving a lot of holes and scratches on the body. See picture
  9. hello community! using extrudr MF PLA as the mainmaterial and UM PVA as supportmaterial, i always get tiny holes in the surface of the MF PLA, at the places where the two materials touch. the rest is acceptable! anybody is fighting with the same problem? how could i get rid of those? hopefully the attached photos will help! greetings
  10. Does anyone have any ideas as to the causes of the visible layering in the picture? I'm using eSun PLA+ filament with the settings shown below and Ultimaker PVA (with built-in standard settings).
  11. Wondering if this is possible? I would like to pick up the new 0.25mm AA print core but don't want to lose my ability to print with PVA.
  12. Saaimon

    Problema con S5

    Ho un problema con la mia S5. Mi è capitato di eseguire stampe di 10 giorni filati senza avere alcun problema. Ho sostituito recentemente l'estrusore BB. Ho stampato ulteriormente dopo averlo sostituito senza alcun problema. Ora, mi ritrovo con un problema di adesione del PVA sul PLA, inoltre il PVA mi "incide" il modello sotto in PLA lasciando il segno. Qualcuno che ha una soluzione o un consiglio al mio problema? Ho provato di tutto, calibrazioni, parametri di stampa, temperature, velocità di stampa, qualità di stampa varie. HO fatto un sacco di prove modificando più variabili ma nulla. Il problema persiste. Ah, dovrei stampare il modello in qualità extra fine 0.06mm Vi ringrazio anticipatamente
  13. Hi I have some bowl like shape i need to print. I know the best way (quality) is to print it with the opening down. but to save in support material and time I would like to print it with the opening up. and here comes the problems. This gives me a very bad finish on the underside. I know it will never be as godt as the top side print, but again when using pva I think it should / could be better. so im looking for some tips. 1: Warping and deformation on the underside, special in the curved part. I can se that the pva is printede fine. so the pla must lift detach from the pva. I have tried to lift the whole print 10mm and 15mm from the build plate (ideer was to give it a more uniform tempter) I see some improvements, but not sure if is a coincidence. Changing "Support z/x/y distance" to give a better grip on the pva. don't know if there some settings overriding this because i don't see any changes. Speed, I have all set to 25mm/s so should not be a problem. minimum layer time is 10sek not sure if this should be higher or I will benefit more from a prime tower. (don't really use prime tower they have a tendency to break of midway) 2: Shape simplifikation. perhaps it's also due to warping! but parts of the bottom seam to be simplified. e.g. if you print a ball the bottom will be more edgy like if the polygon count is smaller then the top half. if that makes sense. In general I have problems with the print quality at the underside og my parts. so any tips will be appreciated. Printer: UMS5 PLA: localbrand temp 200-225c (I see same problem with Ultimaker pla) PVA: PrimaSelect PVA+ temp 180-210c (I generally print a bit over recommendation 215c at lover temp it tends to stig a bit in the print core, same with Ultimaker pva. don't know if the temperature gauge can measure incorrectly on the B core?) UMS5_150319.3mf
  14. Hi everyone, in order to print a thin PVA support structure I wanted to change the BB-0.8 print core with a BB-0.4. My UM3E sent a warning, saying that "AA-0.8" print core is not compatible with PVA material. I double checked that the print core that I had just inserted was actually a BB-0.4. I have cleaned the contact points on the PCB with a cotton swab and some alcohol, but my UM3E stills wrongly recognizes the BB-0.4 print core as a AA-0.8. Do you have any suggestions to solve this problem? Thanks a lot in advance for your help.
  15. Hi all, I'm printing PLA+PVA and I'm using the prime tower. PLA is Extruder 1 PVA is Extruder 2. External material in prime tower is PLA (E1) and internal material is PVA (E2). QUESTION: Is there any way of choosing the internal and external material? In my case, the reason is PLA adhesion is much better, so it would force a better adhesion PVA ring around PLA. Thank you.
  16. Hi all, Cura 3.6 Brim layer is made with PLA but brim support layer are with PVA directly on the platform. Why I obtain these few PVA lines on the PLA brim? in this way I have many adhesion problems in these 10 lines. I wish all PVA on platform. How can I select PVA support ONLY in build plate? (yellow: PLA; purple: PVA) Thank you.
  17. PVA....Cannot live without it, cannot shoot the nozzle when it clogs.... Requirements: Patience aplenty Airbrush needle or something like that with a nice teeny tiny point. Issues to overcome: When printing and humidity strikes midprint, especially on long ones like I do on a constant basis Humidity will clog the nozzle as PVA pops and crackles, creating a carbonized mess inside as well as outside the nozzle If you pause the print to try this, it will not work because the nozzles cool down and you cannot adjust the temp more than +- 25¯C. By this time, the material is too cool to do anything with. *Are you hearing this firmware devs? OK, now this is an issue that has plagued me ever since I started printing. AND continues to plague the industry as a whole. It is an unavoidable evil that must be dealt with. It does not matter whose PVA you are using.....it will happen. The main warning sign is when the material is not printing like a solid wall, but starts to get very lacy. At this point, it cannot hold the material it is supporting and you may not discover this until the print is done and you just have a lot of time, material and expense down the drain. SO! what to do, what to do..... For some reason it occurred to me tonight that the solution (klugey as it may be) is to fake out a material change. Even if you have a brand new spool of PVA in there, if there is a clog, it will still not give full PVA service to the supports. So, here are the steps ? 1. Go to the 'tune' menu and initiate a material change. This will heat the nozzle to the proper temp and hold it. It will also pause all printing ops and step you through all steps of replacing materials. 2. Once your material unloads, leave it at that stage. This will keep the temp up while not letting anything continue until you go to the next step. 3. Poke the heck out of it with the airbrush needle or something similar. Just be careful not to poke out the delicate nozzle tip..... 4. Take older leftover PVA, like those bits when it was changed out and leaves the parts that were in the bowden tube, and push it though. 5. Rinse and repeat until you get a clean thread of PVA going through. 6. Reload your PVA and start back up. 7. As it reloads, you will see a nice thread of material squishing out. This is not as good as a hot and cold pull, but it can save a long print. It should also be mentioned that this is also available for the S5 as well. The best solution would be something to allow a pause and temp control to the extremes that hot and cold pulls require to really get it out. *Ahem* firemware devs ? Some may say that keeping the nozzle clean is the answer.....it is until you have a really long print, the humidity rises and starts to degrade the printing of PVA during that time. It can happen. It has happened to me as I do these massively long prints. Start with a clean nozzle and 5 days later, humidity strikes, and the lace pattern appears as the PVA starts to underextrude. So, happy PVA supports all around fer everyone!! WOOHOO!!!
  18. Hi everyone, First time on Ultimaker forum, hope you'll be able to help ! I've been using for a couple of years a Utilmaker 3 printer with PLA in Extruder 1 and PVA in Extruder 2. Now that Cura offers multiple parameters in support mode, I've been optimising the support interface in order to only use PVA for "Support Interface", the main support being made of PLA. The problem I often come across is that the "Support Interface" in PVA doesn't stick to the pattern PLA support built under it. I tried different support options but nothing really solved the issue. The only parameter helping was increasing the (PLA) support density making a more solid base for the PVA but printing time is highly impacted. I think that maybe adding an intermediary PLA support interface full surface under the PVA support interface would help the PVA to stick to the PLA support. But I'm unsure this configuration exists. Has anyone find a way of composing support this way ? Thanks for your help !
  19. Hello Everyone:) My NYLON and PVA are showing signs of moisture absorption (crackling sound when printing and bubbles) My current room humidity measures 45- 50% One thing still not clear is what is the Humidity % required to print PVA and Nylon (hygroscopic materials) without absorbing humidity ? On ultimaker website it seems to be written upto 50% is okay. but polymaker seems to say less than 15% humidity is required to print. I store both my materials in airtight box with lots of silica. I have attached photos of the same. http://www.3dtechsupplies.com.au/News/polybox-in-action-how-does-polymakers-dry-printing-and-storage-solution-perform https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52602-material-handling-and-storage What is the best option to print with my current humidity % (45-50%): ? Option1: Bake Nylon and PVA on the ultimaker 3 heatbed at 55 deg for few hours before hand when printing. and later keep it in the airtight box with silica. Option2: Make a carboard box with a lots of silica in it and put it on the ultimaker spools and stick it leaving 2 holes for material to feed into the feeder. ( I have made this for time being for some urgent prints. Option3: cover the whole printer with a huge box so that minimum air goes inside and put lot of silica inside. Option 4: Buy Poly box (drybox) for Nylon and PVA, But it will disable NFC feature and create other extrusion problems because of travel from poly box to feeder.( i read in posts) Please suggest best solution to this problem.
  20. I've been having a consistent issue with my new Ultimaker 3. I'm using the Ultimaker brand of silver PLA, with its PVA as a support. However, my printer consistently leaves these deposits of PLA material, only on the back right corner of the model on the bed. It seems like it's not retracting properly when the head changes direction. I am using the UM3 default settings for temperature and retraction and such. What is going wrong?
  21. Hallo zusammen! Ich bin hier neu im Forum und hoffe, dass ihr mir bei einem Problem helfen könnt, zudem ich bis jetzt leider keine Lösung gefunden habe. Setup UM S5, 0,4 AA Core (PLA) 0,4 BB Core (PVA) Slicer: CURA 3.5.1 Problem Wenn ich einen Dual-Extrusion Druck mit PLA und PVA (original von Ultimaker mitgeliefert) durchführe, wird während des Extrudierens des PLAs langsam PVA weiter "gefördert". Es ist keine wirkliche Overextrusion oder Stringing - das PVA wird unaufgeschmolzen gefördert und bricht, wenn die Nozzle verfährt, regelmäßig am eigentlichen 3D-Druck ab. Hat jemand eine Idee zur Lösung des Problems? Vielen Dank für die Hilfe! FALSF
  22. Hi i 'm using um3 and i ve problems with pva.. please help me.. i buy um3 for pva's supports!
  23. Servus! Arbeite mich gerade in unseren neuen UM3 ein und habe bisher noch keine Druckerfahrung. Unser PVA macht mir als Stützmaterial ziemliche Probleme. Anfangs sieht die Stützstruktur noch gut aus und wird meistens schnell zur Katastrophe. Vor allem wenn die Struktur filigraner wird funktioniert der Druck nicht mehr. Ich glaube er lässt kleine Lücken zwischen neuen Linien in einer Schicht. Zusätzlich bilden sich kleine Tropfen in der Struktur und wenn es ganz schlecht läuft, räumt der Druckkopf dann sogar das ganze Modell von der Druckplatte. Da ich auch mit sämtlichen Einstellungen kein besseres Ergebnis bekomme, die Frage an Euch, wie kann ich das abstellen? Gruß Andy
  24. Hello, I bought my UM3 around a year ago. For the last 2-3 months a am facing the same problem over and over again. At the beginning everything was perfect. But as i said around 2-3 months ago the PVA(I use the ultimaker's one in BB core and PLA in core AA). It's like the PVA isn't sticking to the PLA. Is there any fix or? Best regards, Bogdan
  25. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
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