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Found 65 results

  1. Hey there. I got great help last time, so hopefully will do so again. 🙂 I'm printing lots of stuff on ABS with PVA support and have noticed, particularly on jobs where i DO generate support, that stuff is already cracking. I can take pics if needed, but don't really know how else to explain it. It's a completely flat surface with a hairline fracture in it. And there are several like it on each side of the object. And then yesterday we were printing a plane for another project and as it was printing the support, the support was coming up off the bed as it got thicker, which then made that side of the tail curve upward when it should have been flat. Is there something special to using the PVA support and / or ABS? I'm selecting those materials from the menu when I load them. The PVA is ultimaker branded, but the ABS is an off brand but has been fine on jobs without support. Thanks.
  2. Hi everyone, I'e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA on my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, and while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized it was stuck in the feeder. Then I removed the bowden tube at both ends, removed the PVA filament from the printhead, and cut the filament under the feeder. But I still couldn't remove the filament, whatever side I pulled on : I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the spool was left out in the open air for more than one month. But I still don't know how to remove the filament from the feeder. May be I could try moistening the filament in the feeder to soften it and remove it more easily ? Or will I have to disassemble the feeder completely ? Any ideas ? Thanks !
  3. I can't understand how to reduce the violence with which UM3 prints the PVA support... In the last print, where I used the recommended settings for PVA+PLA prints at T-2days for the model to finish (6 days) the bed have been catapulted out from its holding springs. On top of that the magnetic pins holding the cooling fan of the print head opened down and started scratching against the print bed. The only way I found to prevent this is not to use the "print support" option, but rather run a 2-materials print where I draw the support myself... Also it seems that I cannot stop the print remotely anymore with the latest version of cura (3.3.1) which would be something extremely handy in these situations
  4. Bonjour à tous, J'ai un gros problème concernant ma dernière impression avec du PVA sur l'ultimaker 3 : l'impression a cessé d'extruder après plus d'1 heure d'impression, et en voulant retirer le filament de PVA je me suis rendu compte qu'il était coincé dans le feeder. J'ai ensuite retiré le bowden tube des deux côtés, puis retiré le filament de la tête d'impression, et coupé le filament en dessous du feeder, mais malgré cela et en tirant dans les deux sens, impossible de faire bouger le filament : Je suspecte que ce phénomène pourrait être dû au fait que la bobine est restée à l'air libre pendant plus d'un mois, le matériau a pu être dégradé par l'humidité ambiante. Toujours est-il que je ne sais pas comment me sortir de là. Peut-être que je peux essayer d'humecter le filament dans le feeder pour le ramollir et l'extraire plus facilement ? Ou faut-il que je démonte entièrement le feeder ? Vous avez des idées ? Merci d'avance !
  5. BairdB

    Oven Drying Saftey Concerns

    For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  6. PAFablab

    Not sticking

    Upon trying to print something a little harder than the Ultibot, (gyro by vitrox), my Ultimaker 3 is running into some problems. The PVA is not adhering to the print plate and during the start of the printing cycle the extruder for PVA (print core 2) deposits so much PVA material around the print core that it forms a mass or ends up dragging the material around as it tries to print. Can anyone help with this problem?
  7. I have a fairly new UM3E and the only issue I'm currently having is that printing PVA supports is not working well. I'm only using Ultimaker filament and I've only printed from the same reel of PVA on the BB core. After printing Benchy and a couple of other prints, the PVA printing from print core 2 - the BB 0.4 (extruder #2) that came with the printer, has stopped extruding material. The first time this happened I followed the printer cleaning directions from Ultimaker using Ultimaker cleaning filament. I removed a lot of black carbonized gunk and was able to get the PVA to extrude a little. On my last print I noticed that the PVA filament had broken near the extruder. After more cleaning and no PVA extruding from the BB core I decided to post here. I've been using the defaults in Cura, Cura is auto recognising the Ultimaker filament. I took a look at replacement BB cores but at EUR 165 maybe I need to just replace the brass nozzle(?). I expect something is out of adjustment because of the broken filament. In the mean time, I'm getting good print quality out of the AA core (extruder #1) without supports. What sort of performance should I expect with PVA and the BB core, what tweaks could I make to improve my experience with the PVA? Are there any other cleaning techniques beyond the hot/cold pull to clean/fix my BB 0.4 core and how do I clean the nozzle? Attaching photo of the current state of the core nozzle. The AA core (extruder #1) nozzle looks like shinny brass - not sure why so much PVA material is collecting on the BB nozzle but I'm knew to this and probably making a rookie mistake. Thanks. Larry
  8. I am printing a bracket (shaped like a wide V or sort of batwing), dimensions about 7 inches long and .75 inches high (180 mm x 19 mm). Using Ultimaker PLA with Ultimaker PVA support with 0.1mm layer height using (latest Cura and UM3+. The final print is only .69 inches (17.5 mm) instead of .75 inches, so the Z is off by a lot. I measured before dissolving the support, so it's not warping. I can't show the whole part because it's a corporate design, but here are some images which I think show enough. The only idea I have is PVA shrinkage during print (maybe water content, material pops a little during print, but doesn't seem soft or sticky and it adheres fine) Any suggestions what is the cause? Thanks.
  9. Alex L

    PVA support issues

    Just got our lovely new Ultimaker 3 up and running and we are tying to print a massing model which has balconies, seems like the perfect use of the PVA support material but Cura does not want to support the balconies without placing PVA support almost everywhere as the attached images. Is there some setting to stop it printing PVA where it is clearly not needed?
  10. Maid_DeLa_Mer

    Massive clog/PLA explosion

    Howdy All! I'm desperately looking for some help and advice, because I suspect my UM3E is about to be out of commission for a hot minute. I started a print last night using glow in the dark PLA from MatterHackers and Ultimaker PVA, and when I returned to work this morning, chaos had struck. The glass plate had been pulled out of it's socket, there were globs of PLA everywhere, and the entire print head kit has been filled in with PLA. It's so bad that the print head fan bracket has been pushed open and twisted to the left. Any chance that this is something I can fix, or do I need to bite the bullet and prepare myself for a costly repair/replacement bill? Also, any idea how/why this happened? I'd like to avoid such a horrible situation in the future if at all possible...
  11. I've had my U3 for about 8 months now, but I've mostly just been running dual extrusion PLA prints. I haven't printed with PVA in about 6 months. I went to swap out print cores today so that I could to a print with some PVA and I am unable to remove the core. I remember it being tough to pull out before, but both myself and a number of students have been unsuccessful this time. I'm wondering, does it have anything to do with the different heights of the cores (seen in attached pictures). Printcore 1 is held higher as if it was going to be printing from printcore 2.
  12. Dear Ultimaker Community, I'm having some problems printing complete structures with PVA, which I want to use as a sacrificial mold for further research, but also when I use PVA solely as support material. During printing, oozing results in bad quality prints and thus a low quality mold, but I also notice that my buildplate lies full of small parts of PVA (schrapnel) after printing (see pictures 1 and 2). I try to print a porous structure consisting out of cubes, which need to have support between them (see picture 3). The dimension of the support is often very small, around 2-4 mm wide. After printing the support part, some PVA is still extruded from the nozzle creating these small schrapnel. When the printer changes his printcore from PVA to PLA, this schrapnel that hangs from the BB 0.4 printcore touches the print and detaches. Most of the time, these parts are distributed over the buildplate and are not a problem, but sometimes they stick to the print and are integrated in the final structure when the next layer of PLA is printed over them. I've read already the humidity problem, which might be an issue in my case. Are there any other reasons that might cause this problem? Are there ways to solve this? I also notice a lot of oozing problems when printing with PVA as build material. Might it be possible that PVA is not optimized for this and only works as support material? Kind regards, Fréderick
  13. Ok, before I start, let me say that there are a gazillion great things out there to print that can do what I describe below. I purchased these products because: (A) Time considerations And (B) Would rather take the filament and use expensive stuff for other things. One item I purchased as the "Print Dry" setup. The second thing is that I got the Polybox from Polymaker. I just came off a huge job and just got around to setting things up today. I did get the Printdry setup a week ago and did put my PVA in there to 'slow cook' and just let it sit while the printer finished a 6 day print and I finished the job. The Polybox is super easy to put together. It is mostly all done, just putting the battery in the thermo-hygrometer, Dropping the desiccant into its compartment and slapping some bearings on the rollers for the spools. And it has made a huge difference. First off, no more crackling and popping on the PVA. The PVA is solid and not 'webby' like it used to be. So, the PrintDry took some really humidity absorbed PVA and rejuvenated it. That is very pleasing. Even with the low humidity we had over the last week, it still is an improvement. The Polybox feeds very well and solves one of the issues I had with oversized spools and that has made a difference. It comes with a bowden tube to feed from the box to the feeder and due to it being a straight feed from the spool out to the feeder on the UM3E, I do not get binding like I used to. I never really got that with low weight spools, but some that I buy are not configured to get on the UM3E's feeder arm properly and the filament guide. All in all, I have noticed a marked improvement on the PVA and think it may be helping the PLA not have humidity as well. So, if you have troubles with your PVA at least (or really any other hygroscopic filaments) I suggest you make a dry box or purchase one. The Print Dry has excellent temp controls and does not require killing hours from printer use just to heat the buildplate and dry out the filament. Not a review, but a referral to the need to dry out the filament and at least make your own. It really does make a difference. While I hang my head in maker shame for not making my own, now I do not have to kill a bit of time and filament and can go on with my own designs and ideas.
  14. Hi people, I was happy to buy an Ultimaker 3 Extended last week, with the 0.4 mm print heads. I also bought a 750 g spool of transparent Ultimaker Nylon. I use the latest Cura 3.2.1 (which is super slow on Windows 10, by the way), and also updated the printer's firmware. But since then I run into a number of issues. Firstly, I tried printing the Ultibot design that came with the provided USB stick (so, default parameters), using the supplied PLA and PVA. PVA was extruding well from the BB head, but PLA was not from the AA head. Then, I switched to nylon. This worked well with PVA. So, I decided to print a custom design of a cylinder that has an internal structure. I sliced a small part of this (40 mm height) in Cura with the default parameters for Nylon and PVA. I was surprised to see how bad the result was. While the outer wall printed well, the internal structure did not look right, with nylon and PVA mixed randomly. At the end, after having it submerged in water for a few days, the whole internal structure just melted away. As indicated by others, the print became bendy as well after being in water for days. Assuming the structure was too thin to be printed properly, I changed the design by thickening the internal walls to 0.8 mm, and changed several Cura parameters. Specifically, I reduced line widths to 0.35 mm and the print speed to 30 mm/s or less, I increased the infill density of Nylon to 100% and the support density to 15%. Everything else was just the default. According to some online posts, these are sufficient to improve the quality of the print, while not spending loads of PVA. So I went for the full design (156 mm height). After almost 3 days, this stopped close to the end (not sure when exactly) and the printer showed an error: "The X or Y axis is stuck or the limit switch is broken". So, I discovered that the X axis switch is broken and needs replacement. But let's forget about this for now... The print stopped ~1-2 mm before finalizing. The prime tower fall at probably the middle of the print, and the cylinder was obviously missing a lot of support on the sides. After melting the PVA in water for a few hours, a big chunk (4-5 cm) from the top was... not there! So for the last several hours it was only printing with PVA. There is still plenty of Nylon on the spool. Honestly, I am quickly losing my faith to the printer, or this technology in general. Does anybody have any suggestions to solve the printing quality issues, at least? What would be the best approach for Nylon and PVA? Maybe use a different material? Thanks.
  15. Hi, I just got my UM3 Extended and I did my first robot print and it turned out pretty good. This was after setting the nozzle switch position, manually leveling the base, then performing the auto level, and calibrating the xy. I am now printing my first actual print and I am getting stringing and burning with my PVA. What should I do to fix this? I used the standard fine settings @ .1mm layer height. I have read I need to look at retractions and right now the settings are as follows Retraction Distance: 6.5mm, Retraction Speed: 25mm/s Retraction Retract Speed: 25mm/s. These are all untouched. I am printing PLA with PVA supports. Please see the attached photos for the stringing. Is there a way to change just the second nozzle retraction? Or is there only one setting for both. Lastly the humidity in the building is around 42% and the temp is 72. Thanks in advance
  16. Hi all! I can't seem to get my Ultimaker 3 to print everything perfectly. I am printing using PLA as my main material. It seems that the layers closer to the bed are always deforming in the same spot. I am running the latest version of Cura and I did a full maintenance of the printer last week - images 1&2 are before the maintenance setup and 3-6 are after the setup, which we can see that the situation is better but not fixed. I printed it with recommended settings and Fine (0.1mm) profile. Any ideas to what could be the issue? Thanks, Victor
  17. Hi all! I am trying to print a PLA+PVA (AA0.4/BB0.4). The PLA has a partly rough surface, which I have never seen when printing on UM3 without the PVA. After dissolving the PVA, the print looks like this: This is printed with the standard Cura "Fine" profile (without prime tower). Has anyone encountered a similar problem and has been able to fix it? Cheers! T
  18. Bonjour, Je me tourne vers la communauté en désespoir de cause, pour m'aider a résoudre un mystère bien mystérieux: mes impressions se décollent du plateau uniquement lors des impression longues (1 jour ou plus) et je ne comprends pas pourquoi. Dernier exemple en date, un étage de bâtiment trouvé sur thingiverse que j'ai imprimé le week-end dernier en 0.06mm pour voir le résultat final avec mon UM3E: C'est très moche. Pourtant, au départ, c'était bien parti: j'ai surveillé au départ l'impression, les 3 premiers layers étaient nickel quand ils ont été imprimé, pas de bulle, de décollement, etc, donc je suis parti en week-end confiant, et je trouve ça au retour. Ça me le fait depuis quelques temps, et je ne comprends pas la raison. J'ai bien nettoyé la vitre (j'utilise généralement du produit karcher pour vitres depuis que j'ai reçu mon imprimante en aout dernier, jamais eu de problèmes avant, je n'ai pas un accès facile a un évier, mais j'ai eu le souci même après un lavage a l'eau chaude et au produit vaisselle), recalibré les printcore, fait un leveling manuel et automatique, en suivant tous les conseils que j'ai trouvé sur le forum, et ça ne change rien. Ça n'est pas non plus lié a la géométrie: j'ai eu le même problème sur la base ronde d'un pot a stylos en forme de casque de dark vador, l'arrière du casque,qui est pourtant un demi-cercle, a aussi eu le même problème de léger décollement. Par contre, sur des prints rapides (quelques heures) je n'ai aucun souci d'adhésion. Donc j'avoue que je ne comprends plus trop, et que je suis preneur de toute explication que vous pourriez avoir, ou d'autres tests ou réglages que je pourrais faire pour résoudre le problème. J'utilise les réglages standards de CURA, et ces impressions on toutes été faites en PLA: celle au dessus en blanc, le vador en noir, évidemment.
  19. BlackCloud

    PVA support tower breaks

    I'm using PLA with PVA for support on this. I've been having a hella problem printing this model. The slicer creates a support tower below the protrusion shown in the pic. But it always breaks off before the tower meets the model so it just extrudes material into the air. I created a test model that isolates the problem. It's five little balls hanging in mid air so that it forces support towers under them. The tiny square in the back is just to trick the slicer to keep it from moving the balls down to the build plate. I have never gotten this test to print successfully. Somewhere between one third and half way up, one of the towers breaks off and then it all goes to hell. In a few more passes all of the towers are broken. Often, but not always, they break right at the join between the brim and the wall. I attached the test print STL if you want to play. Any help would be most appreciated. test4.stl
  20. Guillaume777

    Support PVA méthode "l'entre deux"

    Bonjour, je viens de cramé des neurones pour façonné un support, comportant la méthode que je nome "l'entre deux". J'ai mis le projet en suspend et vous le partage, en espérant avoir quelque piste de conception. L'idée de l'entre deux mais venu avec l'option " Toit de support ". Celle-ci est intéressante, mais utilisable que pour des surfaces plane. L'objectif est de réduire l'utilisation de PVA, pour réduire le coût.Et utilisé sur des surface dynamique. Je suggère de crée une couche de PVA entre la pièce en PLA et le support en PLA. Je pense utilisé cura pour généré le support, car pour moi le coût du PVA est réduit à 3-4 euros le kilo. Par contre je suis curieux de savoir comment vous concevez vos propres support pour des pièces avec des formes dynamique. J'utilise Solide Works et me suit battue avec les fonctions : emprunte, fractionné, surface décalé, épaissir la surface. C'est complexe.Vos méthode m’intéresse.; ) Et j'espère que la méthode l'entre deux peut aidé économiquement quelques Maker! Merci
  21. Video Here Hi, I recently bought a new Ultimaker PVA 350g spool so I know that it is in good condition and also cleaned my BB core by performing hot and cold pulls, so I believe my nozzle is clean. For some reason when ever I print with PVA it seems to run / drool / leak out of the nozzle after it has laid some down and also seems to curl up and ultimately stick to the rest of the model or the nozzle. Sometimes the PVA oozes out far enough to then collide with the print as the PLA layer is bring printed. I've taken some photos and video of one of my prints to hopefully explain more clearly. The pictures of the nozzle are at the end of the print. Is this printing correctly? There was also a tiny bit of grinding on the filament. Thanks in advanced!
  22. Hi all, I'm brand new to 3D printing but have a lot of experience in 3D modelling and CAD design. Recently got my second hand (pre-owned) UM3 and extremely happy with it. I have had problems with the PVA bubbling, popping, burning and grinding which I've read means it's absorbed too much moisture. I think previous owner either didn't store it correctly or during transit it abosrbed moisture as it wasn't bagged up. I've now invested in plastic sealable bags and packets of desiccant, I have also ordered a new spool of PVA to see if I have the same issues. Fingers crossed! I have a few questions: How should PVA look? White/Yellow/Milky? How flexible should it be? How long does it take for PVA to absorb too much moisture? Does the average household room pose a risk to the PVA while using it to print with for long hours? How to identify / check any filament for quality / moisture absorbtion? Same questions for PLA too? I hope this isn't too many questions! Thanks, Chris
  23. Kurt-Kirkeby

    PVA support by Stacked parts

    Images: PVA and stacked parts1: - my parts are stacked in an assembly, with space to place PVA or support material PVA and stacked parts2: - perspective view of the parts PVA and stacked parts3: - The problem with PVA support and stacked parts, it builds up an unnecessary, time and cost spending wall (6 hours extra for 8 parts) PVA and stacked parts4: - The problem with PVA support and stacked parts, it builds up an unnecessary, time and cost spending wall PVA and stacked parts5: - The same G-code with 43 parts printet without PVA just one material for part and support PVA and stacked parts5-1: detailed view of image5 I have market up the support with a yellow marker PVA and stacked parts6-Extruder1: Extruder1 selected PVA and stacked parts6-Extruder2: the only change is i have selected Extruder2 I have tried to set serval settings under support and I keep on getting these unnecessary walls, can anyone help me?
  24. Nidhal Ben Othmen

    Quality decreased

    Hello dears, I am a new user of Ultimaker 3 extended for prototyping in my engineering activity. Unfortunately with the last parts which I printed, I remarked that the quality is decreased: I found that the first layer is not uniform (see the 1st pic) some dimensions are not accurate (shift of 0.3 or 0.4 mm) and also there are some points where material is accumulated (see pic. 2) I want you to know that I am using Cura 3.2.0 with recommended print setup, 1st extruder is PLA with print core AA 0.4. the second extruder for support is PVA BB0.4 Thanks in advance for advices.
  25. Hi there, I have printed a senseo cup holder as shown in attached pictures. Using Ultimakers original PLA and PVA and slicing in Cura 3.1 at 150um and 40% infill, rest std. settings as shown in picture. UM3E firmware: 4.1.4.20171204 The result is somewhat a surprise disappointment - war-page of both rear bottom corners - different layer thickness visible at several locations - some (openings) * Why so much warpage in both rear corners (see one detail of rear left corner) , d wall = 2 mm and I closed front of UM3.. and it is PLA .. ?? * The detail picture of layer build up of right side shows a zone (2) with layer thickness of ca. 300 um , in zone 3 it is the actual 150um as set in Cura * at a height of ca 70mm there is a colour band visible, indicating density change period... tension change on feeding filament or ?? > the total print was done during night time. * Is the filament guiding of material 1 (outer spool) ok ?, It is done as in manual but to me seems a possible unstable setup ..?? (filament stropping ...) Any advise would be great. I did not tinker any setup but the part design is not that complicated or has wall thickness variations that can be troublesome. Thks Alex Gcode file header: ;START_OF_HEADER ;HEADER_VERSION:0.1 ;FLAVOR:Griffin ;GENERATOR.NAME:Cura_SteamEngine ;GENERATOR.VERSION:3.1.0 ;GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE:2017-12-05 ;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:Ultimaker 3 Extended ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:205 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:77407 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.GUID:506c9f0d-e3aa-4bd4-b2d2-23e2425b1aa9 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.NAME:AA 0.4 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:100 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:10871 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.MATERIAL.GUID:fe15ed8a-33c3-4f57-a2a7-b4b78a38c3cb ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.NOZZLE.NAME:BB 0.4 ;BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:60 ;PRINT.TIME:57742 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.X:9 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:6 ;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Z:0.27 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.X:213 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Y:207 ;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Z:116.97 ;END_OF_HEADER ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 3.1.0
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