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  1. Sorry if this question is allready asked....☺️ I updated from Cura 14.7 to 4.10. But in that version, my pc don´ t find my Anet A8. Nor I don´t find any option to change or test or somethingelse to look for the USB-Connection. I tried out Cura 3.7 (or so) and that shows my printer is connected at Port 5..... I hope I´ m here at the right site/place to get some help. Thank you,all
  2. Hello, I want to run my own post processsing script via a nice tool button in cura. i have it running in file/export ... but this is so much more work 😉 It would be nice to have it on the left side and when i click on and i haven't clicked slice than it starts slicing and when finished it directly starts my srcipt. I don't want to get a file which i have to pass to my script where i have to read and overwrite. It should be possible to directly pipe the stream to my scritp so only one time a file is written. I know its a difficult question, if you need more information pleas let
  3. I found the device as in the figure below after leaving a printing process for about 9 hours. The glass mat had come out of the device and fell to the floor. The print core had pressed strongly on the heat table and deep scratches were formed. The filament was stuffed into the print core and clogged. Before starting the process, the device was calibrated. Even if it wasn't calibrated, shouldn't the print head be able to recognize the surface and stop? Couldn't the distance sensor have prevented such massive damage? The clogging problem could be solved somehow, but how t
  4. It's actually my second machine, I had a S5 Pro Bundle at work for 2 years that was always flawless, now retired I boought my own S5. Despite going through calibration and manual leveling procedure, the first layer is bad.. I tried spinning the glass 180 degrees, printing on the other side, re-doing the calibration... it changes a little but is still uneven about the same way each time.. it goes through the multi-touch drill each time and doesnt fail.. everything looks normal. using UM plain PLA. thoughts?
  5. Trying to print a vase in vase mode. I attached the 3MF file. I don't do vase mode too often. However on the first try I noticed it would print about 3-4 degrees around and *poof*, retract! So I went back and turned off retraction in Cura. Now it goes and does the same thing. Vase mode is not supposed to retract at all. The time isn't the problem. The problem is each "layer" retract it does, it makes the thing look like it has smallpox. I cancelled the print. It's possible I am missing something. I often do. Thanks, Matt CE3PRO_Spiral_Vase.3mf
  6. Hi all, Approximately 8 months ago, I purchased a new Ultimaker S3. Ever since, I've been printing daily at least 8h. The printer never failed and from the beginning also produced a superb print. For about a week now, however, the printer has been acting up. I first had the problem that half way through the printjob, the S3 would simply stop extruding filament (the print head moves without filament exiting the nozzle). In the meantime, it's worsened. Now, half way through the printjob the bowden tube gets loose and rips itself out of the feeder. I've been using the same t
  7. I'm thinking about finally retiring my highly modified UMO that I purchased in 2012, but I don't believe in using "the cloud" for controlling my 3D printing (or much of anything else, really). Is the only current Ultimaker product line alternative a tethered computer via USB or perhaps a memory stick (no better than my 9 year-old UMO)? It's a shame to waste Ethernet and wifi hardware on a cloud-only solution! This may be an Ultimaker deal breaker for me.
  8. Hi, I'm using Cura for quite a while now, but this is the first time I see Cura creating some obvious useless support. On the inside of my model it creates 3 support parts, that "connect" to nothing. Does anyone have a clue? I added the STL, the G-code and the project file. Cheers, Henk LED_module_4.stl LED_module_4.gcode LED_module_4.3mf
  9. Hi guys i have a bad leveling sensor. i guess.. almost every time i try to print it will fail its initial bed leveling procedure and therefore stop. when i then go to diagnose the bed sensor it tells me about 50% of times it has a bad connection 50% is says beeing at error.. (also, that diagnose takes for eever to run...) Wiggling the cables, replugging, restarting the hole machine sadly has no effect. so i cant print. i found i need a new bed-sensor board. does somebody know where i can order that piece?
  10. So currently I have two post processing scripts on. I have the Display Filename and Layer turned on and Display Time Remaining. I dont care as much about the Filename and mainly just want to see how long it says it has left and what layer its on. Am I able to add to the text box "On " so that it doesnt use the file name and shows "On Layer 1 of...." instead? Then if I reorder the scripts can I get it to show the Time remaining first then show the "On layer...."?
  11. Bonjour impossible d’imprimer la machine se met sur le cote et le rouleau de filamenfond sur le coté . l
  12. Please help me to correct problem of big gaps in some parts of skin of sliced glider wing (see attached screen shots). Real printed part has the same gaps. What print setting parameters to modify to correct the problem? Thanks for the answers
  13. Hi all - my front fan (UM S3) doesn't spin anymore. I noticed this after starting a print and every time around 10 minutes there is no more extrusion and the filament stuck in the metal tube of the print core (different cores!) because of melting too early. I already checked the fan (was not broken or blocked) and even replace it with a new one but still it doesn't work. I called my local dealer (UM general import igo3d in Germany) and he insists of shipping the printer to him for a check. It is a hassle because I have to put it back in the factory box (which I don't have anymore), pallet it
  14. Hi all, Firstly thanks for helping, my printer has just stopped work mid print. I've just completed 4 days of back to back prints and it's stopped on the last part. The material is PETG. I've tried heating the nozzle up and moving the filament but nothing will extrude. The extruder had a large lump on it when it failed mid print. I've removed this carefully. Thanks for any thoughts on why it's still not printing! James
  15. When using the "Mold" special mode, modifications to Support parameters are not respected in the slice. The slice preview still shows a Support being generated at the bottom of the print, but it reverts from a modified dense zig zag to a very sparse grid when "Mold" special mode is enabled. I might assume the "Mold" special mode has hard coded support parameters? Is this intended? More info: "Spiralize Outer Contour" is required for our workflow We modify the Support parameters to remove the gap between support and print We modify the Support paramet
  16. Hi all. I'm sure I'm missing something basic here and I've tried playing with settings as described on various troubleshooting guides but I'm at a loss so I've come here x I seem to have a gap between walls and the main body of the print. I first assumed it to be not enough top layers but this is 90% gyroid infill and 12 top layers. Holding the print up to the light shows that there only seems to be a bottom layer where the gaps are. I'm sure I am missing a setting, I just can't work out out what it is. I've reset the profile to default and put the temp up in case that
  17. Hello there. So the Native CAD import plugin sounds really great and useful. I believe I am not the only one who would like to use it, but is held off by the high subscription price. May I suggest to offer another option for users to get access to this plugin? Maybe the possibility to subscribe to this plugin alone?
  18. I just realized the only UM with 300mm z- height now is the S5. Will there be a UM 2+ Connect Extended? cheers Kris
  19. im trying to slice my prints but none of them well generate any infills now i reinstalled cura but the still want show like they use to i need help
  20. I have a UM3. It all started with a big print fail, The Material backed upped into the head and in the process of trying to clean it up, I damaged the head. Fortunately, I had a spare AA 0.4 head. I installed the new head, loaded PLA and, as expected, it wanted to calibrate XY. When it printed the test pattern the Y outline looked OK but then it started printing dots. Kind of like the head wasn't getting fed enough material. I have unloaded / loaded material and tried to calibrate numerous times and it does the exact same thing. I tried cleaning the head and the feeder and still get t
  21. how do i make the monitor work on a any cube mega zero
  22. The company I work at has an ultimaker 3s and we are currently attempting to print what are essentially balls in one color with a detailed pattern of another color added to the surface of the ball. I've split the ball in 2 halves and the prints are mostly successful however each island of the small details printed in the second color has bits of plastic sticking out and is generally uneven and weird. Is there a setting in ultimaker to avoid this type of issue ? Sadly I don't currently have any picture to share since all our prints have been sanded down .
  23. Our workflow prints a high volume of small parts. We would like to engrave/emboss the file name (which is a "job number" in our workflow) onto an exposed portion of the raft during the print. This would allow us to track the part/job through the rest of our post-print workflow. Having it on the raft would not interfere with the part geometry. This can not be done "In CAD" as a single model is printed in many different jobs. Does Cura have some mechanism to print the job # or file name that we are missing? Again, looking for a method that does not interfere with part geo
  24. With my Ender 6 (and had it with the CR10s pro as well) if I ender the speed of like 150 or 200, the printer still seems to be working on normal speed. I need to change it by hand on the printer itself. and then i can see and hear the printer go a lot faster. IS there another setting that I need to do? Thank you
  25. Does anyone know how to get the machine name to append to the end of the file name instead of the front. When I save gcode, it will give me machine_originalModelName but OriginalModelName_machine would be so much more useful. I know that the machine tag is in there so people with more than one machine don't accidently use the code on different machines with very different flavors of gcode. But with it in front, it ends up taking up a lot of my printer's view screen and makes it difficult to choose the right print. If it were in the end of the file, I'd basically only see it while transferring
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