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  1. Hi all, I'm working at a college where we have 2 Ultimaker 3's. I've ran into an issue with one of them today that I'm unable to solve by myself / Googling and I hope someone here can help me with it. I was running a print with both cores: on Core #1, it's a AA 0.4 with a white PLA filament; on Core #2, it's a BB 0.4 with a transparent PVA filament. Sometime during the print, the PVA filament broke and got stuck inside the Bowden tube, and I haven't been able to unload the PVA filament that's stuck inside. The PLA filament from Core #1 was unloaded without any issue, and I was able to remove and reinsert the core. But I'm unable to remove Core #2 nor unload the filament or the Bowden tube. I've tried reheating the #2 Core to remove the Bowden tube, but it seems like it's really stuck.. What could I do to solve this? Thank you in advance.
  2. Still loving life with the Ultimaker 2 printer. had it for about 7 years now and it is still running strong! However, I notice a little wear on the belts and I would like to order some as backup. The thing is I can't seem to find them... So maybe they are just available as generic sizes, maybe someone still has a pack of them? I did find this listing for Ultimaker 2 belts on eBay but it is hard to tell if they are a confirmed match. Also, to be sure this is for the "Ultimaker 2", not to be confused by the "Ultimaker 2+". Thank you for any tips!
  3. I purchased an Ultimaker S3 about a month ago, and it does not seem to be able to detect if no filament is flowing. But I thought the printer had a flow sensor. I am confused, can someone explain? When I load new filament, if I fail to place the filament into the feeder correctly, the printer just sits there asking me to click "Confirm" once I see material coming out of the nozzle. But if there is no filament loaded, shouldn't the flow sensor immediately tell me that? And on one occasion, I had to cancel a print because no filament was extruding from the nozzle. Shouldn't the sensor have told me that too? All I did was use the UI to push the filament a little bit and the next print was fine. This article claims the S3 has a flow sensor. But neither the S3 manual or S5 manual mentions of it.
  4. Hey guys, Me again, so I finally got Octoprint and Cura to work together and got half of Thor's Hammer built. Left it a day and tried to build the second half but run into the below error. Its giving me an error that my gcode has not supplied retraction lenght, Retractions speed etc, I tried on basic and advianced and no joy. Please see supplied pics. It was working fine and now not. Should I delete Octoprint and start again? Any advise would be awesome.
  5. hi all, So i'm trying to do exact same print I've an amazing results with PLA and Tough PLA. But have to print in PETG because it could get a little HOT inside computer case, I'd say around 60 degree+... Maybe I will even go with PC at the end, but even with PETG I'm getting strange "shrinkage"in a wall of the build. By saying it I mean it's kind of start and finishes OK to size, but the wall is more like an "C" reversed... It's difficult to explain but it's kind of going inside the part. I'll post a picture of two parts lined together, they supposed to be same size, the one on the left is Tough PLA, the one on the right is PETG - as you will see it's kind of sucked inside itself on the whole length . Hope someone can help me out... Thank you so much.
  6. What changes do I need to make to the Ender 3 Pro if I wanted to add a glass bed to it? Do I have to change the End-stop on the Z-axis? Regards
  7. Since i upgraded from cura 4.12 to 4.13 i've been experiencing my prints stopping in the middle. No clogs, no jams, no issues with filament passing through. I've researched and saw that it may be the SD card and when i've switched SD card i still get a print that stops midway. When i look at my print information screen the file name disappears. I cannot resume or continue at this point and the only thing i can do is shut my printer off and start over. I'm on a back 2017 monteray 12.1 printer is anycubic chiron just recently purchased (all belts and nozzle housing is tight/taught as it should be, gears are solid feeding extruder) generic black PLA 200c nozzle and 60c bed (had it stop mid print) silk gold PLA by giantarm 200-205c nozzle/ 60-70c bed (stops midprint) i'm at a loss and when researching troubleshoots every one talks about jams and clogged nozzles but i've looked this over multiple times and no issues with extruder or filament coming through. any help is greatly appreciated.
  8. hi guys, thanks to everyone on this great forum, really helped me with issues over the past few years. Maybe someone can help this time 🙂 I am printing what is effectively a grill, a mesh if you like. It comes out great but i do get tiny gaps where i think the nozzle cant reach. Its not over the entire model, but seemingly at random across the board. Does anyone have any ideas on a setting that might be able to compensate for this? I have tried quite a few but frankly its at random as its a bit out of my understanding, probably too many to list so im after someone more knowledgeable than myself! See attached images where you can see the "gap" when zoomed in. When i used to run this model on my old U2+ i used to dial up the level of the bed to give more 'squish' which gave me the result i wanted, all gaps filled with squish! Ultimaker S5 with material station, air manager. Printing on kapton with ABS, 0.4mm core, temperature 225, bed at 105. Thanks guys.
  9. Hi everybody, so this is a strange issue that I somehow cannot solve. Maybe with some guidance from you, I will manage to fix it. As you can see in the image, on that small step-over, the infill is visible and top part of the outer wall is hanging directly on the infill, no support under it. on that middle layer, it looks like this: As you can see, there are only small areas for support on the right side. This is for a 2 line outer-wall. If I decrease this to just 1 line, the support is there on the whole perimeter: I would rather print with 2 line wall thickness, but I don't know which setting to change in order to have the correct support , like for the 1 line wall. Thanks in advance !
  10. I've noticed this before. The part sometimes doesn't print the first few tenths of a millimeter. In the sample below, the part is .3mm thick. The software recognizes that. The layer height and first layer height are set to 0.1. So I expect a 3 layer print. But right there, cura says it will only print 1 layer. I need to increase the part thickness to at least 0.6 to get it to print the 3 layers. What gives?
  11. I've spent hours trying to figure this out. I've got an object I've created in Cura that I want supported in a certain way. I created a 2nd object that I want to be printed too - without supports, and the first object to be supported off of this one. I've attached a simple example of what I'm trying to do, can anyone figure out what to do in Cura to get it to do what I want? So the main object I want supported from the base - it has a cut out underneath. Then the main object has an overhang that needs supporting, but I don't want the support to be built off of the object itself; so I have created a self supporting second object that the overhang on the main object can be built off of. No matter what I do, it always in addition to what I want, also prints support underneath the support object. Included is a picture showing only where I want the supports to be - in blue. I've tried add support blockers/overlaps with different support settings. Can anyone figure out how to do it???? It's driving me mad!!!!! thanks TestBody.3mf TestSupport.stl TestBody.stl
  12. Hello all, I'm quite new in the 3D printing world My company has a makerbot replicator+ I dont like the makerbot own slicer so i bought simplify3D because has ready to use profile for this printer that is working smoothly (i think so) now we are waiting our second 3D printer, a creatbot F430 it has its own slicer: creatware that looks like a Cura fork So i am thinking to use cura instead creatware and to do so, i am trying to match the Cura custom printer settings with the creaware default setting Furthermore i am checking the default simplify3D profile for the creatbot F430, if it seems similar to the creatware original profile but it seems different there are some things that go further my poor knowledge: first, the machine setting: cura want only negative values, i don't understand why and i believe that it is not the same thing as creatware G-code flavor? in creatware i can't find the value so i checked in simplify3D where is selected the reprap, but in cura we have different choices: the second extruder offset: in creatware is 72mm so i write that in cura but in simplify3D is different??: both starting and ending G-code is different in all 3 slicer: I am trying to use cura insted of creatware because obviusly is better i thought that with this creatbot F430 it should be more compatible with cura insted of simplify3D because creatware is a cura fork probably if i use simplify3D with the default creatbot f430 profile, it will work nicely as the makerbot does, but i want to undestand more it should be "easy" to exchange these 3 slicer, so i can take the best from all Thanks everyone that will help!
  13. I'm attempting to increase the X, Y scale of a storage bin STL to match a real-world storage bin I want to copy. When I scale up the STL to match the X, Y measurements, slice, and print, the resulting object measurements are not what the Cura scaling shows: Cura: X 135 mm, Y 181 mm, Z 76 mm Printed object: X 81 mm , Y 145 mm, Z 76 mm Z measurement is accurate. Here's the first part of the GCode: ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:35508 ;Filament used: 34.6484m ;Layer height: 0.2 ;MINX:97.935 ;MINY:77.503 ;MINZ:0.2 ;MAXX:232.913 ;MAXY:258.781 ;MAXZ:76 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.13.0 I'm using the latest Cura version and an Ender 5 Plus.
  14. I find that compared with Cura some models prints a lot faster when sliced with the creality-slicer that was shiped with my Ender 3 pro. Creality slicer is a customized version of an early Cura version, so I find that strange. This model ends up with more than double estimated print time!!! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4945700 I used https://www.gcodeanalyser.com/ and get this results: (I have tried to make the settings as equal as possible in the two slicers) Ultimaker Cura Slicer result to the left Creality slicer to the right
  15. Can anyone suggest a piece of 'simple' software for sending G-code to the printer. Specifically for things like feeding filament through. I'm trying to fix (another brand A20T) a device with a problem . It's heating up but not feeding filament. Regards
  16. I am trying to update the firmware for my Ultimaker S5, there are 2 available (6.5.3 & 7.0.2) I assume both need to be updated? I have began the update for 6.5.3 via USB stick and initially all seemed to be going well but the screen has been displaying ULTIMAKER for the last two ours and no other info or change. Is this correct? How long should the average update take? if it has frozen, what can I do to recover it? TIA
  17. It seems that everytime I go to slice this helmet it places a line across the outside of the helmet. Printed out a mando helmet and same issue occurred. Can always sand it down but rather have the smooth print. Any suggestions???
  18. Hi, When the S5 starts a build it always moves to the front centre of the build plate before then moving to the part start and beginning the build. I wish to locate a thermal camera off the build plate and need to attach it at along the front of the plate. This head movement would result in a collision. I would be very grateful if anyone had a fix to prevent the head moving to this position. Regards Greg
  19. Hi I have been working on a project to develop a vase for raspberry pi 4. I have the gcode files and needed to make a change to the design. Unfortunately i cannot find the source STL file. IS it possible to bring the gcode file back into Cura and change it back to an STL file so it can be edited and converted back to an STL.
  20. How can i set a model to only have the bottom half or any part of the model to use the make overhang printable feature? I want only certain portions to have this feature and the other parts to be left alone. In the picture i have circled the part i don't want changed by feature. It would be nice if there was a feature like support blockers for "make overhangs printable" feature.
  21. I am having this strange issue with the Cura slicer, where it seems to work fine (mostly), but when I go to preview a slice, both of my monitors go black for a second, and when they come back Cura has closed out. There's no crash report, no sign of something having gone wrong. It's just closed. I've tried rebooting, reinstalling, deleting the cura file in AppData and reinstalling, and nothing I've found through a quick search has given me an answer. Has anyone else experience this? If so, how would I go about fixing it? Thank you.
  22. I am trying to cut a hole in the bottom of my object, however, when I do and go to slice there are no supports in the hole I just made. The hole with just the side supports are the cut holes, the side supports are part of the actual model not the hole. How do I cut a hole in cura and put supports in said cut hole.
  23. I can print duplicate and mirror mode on an iDEX printer I would like to use the "one at a time" mode with my idex printer. Printer is a JG maker artist d. I do not see the one at a time mode in cura for the profile I setup
  24. Hi, I'm looking for the country of origin for Ultimaker Tough PLA Filament - White. The SDS mentions the supplier being Ultimaker in Netherlands, but doesn't clearly say it's made there. Thank you,
  25. So our S5 will print a xy offset print just fine. No issues extrusing for it. As soon as I try to print a project of any kind it will not extrude anything and claim it is empty. I've cleaned it. Backed out and replaced the material twice. Taken the heads on and off. Manually leveled. Initially it was saying the print heights were too different from each other while it wouldn't print. Now it just acts like it's empty and never attempts to send any filiment through. Any ideas?
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