Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Question'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type

3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
    • Ultimaker.com feedback
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Ultimaker Marketplace
    • Third party products & modifications
  • 3D print Questions
    • Improve your 3D prints
    • Design for Additive Manufacturing
    • Industries
  • Ultimaker Academy e-learning
    • General questions e-learning
    • Courses & learning plans
    • Request a course
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages



Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



3D printer

About Me



On The Web

  1. The addition of the monotonic feature really brought home to me how odd top/bottom surfaces end up looking because of the intrusion of walls into those surfaces. Consider the attached dolphin keyring. The contrast between the wall lines and the skin lines is quite severe. What I want is more like this: (using walls = 0) but no wall at all can produce some ugliness at the edges. This is only really noticeable when the top surface isn't a trivial square/circle, but when it's noticeable it really spoils the surface. Dauphin.stl
  2. Hi all. 3D printing newb here with a hopefully simple question about slicing my small model that has embossed text on the side. It's just a small toy for my daughter that has the text "Love" embossed on the side. Cura seems to not recognise that the bottom of the characters is a surface and leaves a gap. Here's a slicer preview. I've circled the 'L' character and as you can see, there are no wall/lines and the infill is visible through the gap. I can 'fix' the problem by increasing the wall count to enough to fill the gap, but obviously having a wall count of 4+ when I normally have only 2 seems like a bit of a hacky solution and takes way longer to print. What am I doing wrong here? Is it my model? The embossed text is 1mm deep which I would thing sould be enough, right? Is there some setting I'm missing? Although I have tested on the built-in Standard setting with the same result. This can't be a bug I'm sure? Any light someone can shine on this issue would be much appreciated.
  3. I'd like a way to put a negative value here so to get for example 1 perimeter on top/bottom and 4 walls the rest of the print. to get a nice surface. I haven't found this functionality in cura, but if it exists please let me know. If not please please please implement it, this is one of few things making me go to other slicers sometimes
  4. I'm trying to use Cura 4.11 with my Lulzbot Taz 6. I can't even really get started though because the starter code uses gcode variables that Cura apparently ignores now. For my start gcode, I have : M109 R{material_wipe_temperature} ; wait for extruder to reach wiping temp Which should replace the variable with the extruder temp as below: M109 R140 ; wait for extruder to reach wiping temp But it doesn't... It just prints exactly that line, curly brackets and all in my final gcode. There are several other areas where variables are used and they are all ignored. Is there a special setting I should turn on somewhere? Were these variables removed at some point? I can't imagine why they would have as they are really useful.
  5. Dear Ultimaker: I recently bought the pro bundle and I noticed that before every single print, the MS will feed filament all the way through the tubes into the print head and extrude a bunch of plastic to clear the nozzle before making the part. After the print completes, the MS will extrude even more filament (pushing and pulling back and forth) in order to shape the tips of the filament into knobs for easier retraction because apparently thin strings will jam up the mechanisms. Then, after a delay. it fully retracts material 1 completely back into itself and leaves the PVA support spool partially retracted, a few inches above the print head. Why can't we leave both filaments in the print cores after a print so the next job can be started immediately? I am forced to pack more parts into a single job at once because the start and end delays waste too much time and plastic. If anything, the prime/deprime procedure should occur only when the user requests a change in filament; if you intend on sticking to one main variety like PETG there's so much overhead. When reloading filament the material station doesn't ask: "Let me know when the plastic is extruding correctly" like the vanilla S5 does; instead it pushes out plastic on a set timer. I understand that a lot of the design choices were made assuming automation and remote operation, and the machine needs to extrude extra plastic than normal just to be absolutely sure. But a user still needs to be around to swap the glass plate between print jobs anyway so what does it matter? All in all, I think the material station has a serious lack of manual control or customization to fit the user's needs. It acts like an uncontrollable black box that needs to be worked around. I would like to request a new feature at your earliest convenience: 1. Ability to manually change filaments with the MS (where the user can confirm the plastic is extruding correctly) 2. Option to prevent automatic filament retraction at the end of a print I feel as though these two changes would make the material station absolutely perfect for a user like me; a true asset instead of an obstacle to productivity. And it doesn't seem so hard to implement, since it involves skipping an existing process instead of creating something brand new. At the time of this writing (Sept 18), I'm on the latest firmware: 6.5.1. Are any other users having this problem?
  6. Hey all, So I've been experimenting with bridging settings for ABS and have some settings I like which entails having a lower density for the bridge layer. This all seems to be working as expected and no questions here. What I found interesting is that if I apply a block to my bottom layer and set it to "Mesh Type: Modify settings for overlaps (Cutting Mesh)" that I have something interesting happen. Even through the bottom layer is a complete skin the slicer detects the next layer as a bridge and goes and prints it at the lower density. Seems like the slicer is detecting the bottom layer as empty because of the modifier block and is attempting to bridge it. I'm seeing this in cura 4.4, 4.8, and 4.11 Attached is a picture showing the bottom 2 layers of a cube where I have done this. Anyone have any ideas how to keep the experimental bridging settings enabled while also being able to add a modifier as I have done?
  7. Ultimaker 3, latest firmware, Cura 4.11, .4mm nozzle, Ultimaker Grey ABS, 225c / 65c, Layer Height .3, Initial .27, width: .35 or .4, Initial layer width: 100, 105, 110 and 120% Walls 3, Bottom layers 3, Printing at 220c, I can't seem to get my bottom surface to print smoothly, but I'm not sure what the result is telling me. I'm getting great adhesion, and the top layer looks exactly the same when I don't iron it. How can I make it look more like the top surface?
  8. I just did some calibration and retraction testing using custom gcode and ended up with a retraction speed of 45mms and liked the way it looked compared to 40, when I tried putting 45 into cura it went red and said I couldn't do that. Why and how can I get it to do what I want?
  9. I'm using Cura 4.11.0 on a Macintosh to slice my designs for printing on a Snapmaker A250. I've turned on ironing on the top layer only, and where it works, it smooths perfectly. The problem is it doesn't smooth the entire surface, but leaves portions of the surface actually rougher then if iron wasn't on. Here's a couple of pictures, sorry for the brightness but I needed to be able to show the issue. You can see at the top and bottom of the print it's really rough. I've had this issue with a couple of different designs now. I'm including the curaprofile, the stl file and the gcode file. Any help will be greatly apppreciated. Thanks, GWFAMI S2A_top w_grid v1_1-Fusion.gcode top w_grid v1_1-Fusion.stl
  10. When I'm loading material in my S5 the screen will show a little warning icon next to materials that I shouldn't load with the current print core. That's great, but it only works if the printer actually has a profile for the material you're loading. I've got some glow in the dark PLA which works great with "generic PLA" settings, but the maker (MatterHackers) says it's abrasive and I should only use it with a CC print core. The problem is it's easy to forget when switching materials to switch the print core too. What I want to do is create a profile for this material that'll warn me if I try to load it with the wrong print core installed, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do it. Any suggestions?
  11. I am trying to dry printer filament. I need to set the build plate temp to 80C for 10 hrs and place the filament in the printer. However i don't see any settings to manually set the temp or time. Is this possible? Is there another way i can dry filaments without purchasing an oven? Thanks Material - Fibretuff 2 Machine - Ultimaker S5 pro bundle
  12. The mandatory cooldown time forcing the bed to drop below 60C is really quite frustrating when trying to print higher temp materials which require enclosures and higher ambient temperatures. When I'm printing ABS with a 100C build plate I really need to let it warm for like 30-60 minutes to ensure that the ambient temp in the printer is high enough that I don't get warping and layer splitting. If I have a failed print due to something like I just did where the autolevel decided to ram my nozzle very far into the build plate at one spot I basically loose 2hrs of print time as I need to let the thing fully cool down. I then need to let it fully warm up and get the air back to the required 35C ambient before I can tell it my print has been removed and then restart my print. I get this is a safety feature to prevent people from trying to rip prints off a hot glass bed and either damage themselves or the printer but there needs to be an advanced options menu to skip this for these kind of scenarios. The skip cooldown option that comes up doesn't seem to do anything here when it isn't greyed out. I am missing something basic or is there a way to disable or change this safe cooldown temp with a variable or something? At this point I'm basically taking files home from my lab and printing them on my home printer (a Voron 2.4) as it does ABS better than this one. Users at some of our other sites ask me if they should replace their Prusa MK3s with S5s and honestly I'm having a hard time saying yes. At face value this printer will handle these higher temp materials better and hardware wise it's superior but then the limitations int he firmware for stuff like this make it very hard to recommend.
  13. I have an Ultimaker 2+ that will not print correctly. When I came back to school over the summer and tried to print something, very little filament would come out of the print head and when it did, it would curl up on itself. I did an atomic method to make sure everything inside the nozzle was fine and when I did, the filament came out just fine upon pressing down and it came out the perfect shape (No dirt or anything. So then I figured it was something to do with the filament feeding. Sure enough, when I took out the filament, there was grinding at the part of the plastic that was in the feeder. I took off the feeder and cleaned it out and reassembled everything again. I did yet another atomic clean just to make sure nothing was stuck after another failed print and then finally reloaded the plastic. It's still doing the same thing. I've also tried turning up the temperature of the nozzle just in case. I'm pretty sure something is causing the filament to not move correctly and therefore, it's grinding. But after cleaning out the feeder, it fed the filament correctly when reloading, so it's something that's happening during the print. Hope all of that made sense.
  14. Anyone know what I need to do to stop the dribble trails?? Ultimaker Breakaway - I see it with ABS also.
  15. I have the ender 3 pro and I am trying to upgrade the firmware. I have installed Cura and added the printer, but when I try to select the upgrade firmware button it says it is not connected to the printer. I've tried activating the printer, but nothing seems to happen. Help?
  16. @Ultimaker 2+ why nobody seems to talk about how to keep a good balance Quality/Speed? Real problems are how to print under 8 hours big complex models with loads of overhangs ,very thin walls and it's not feasible to split the 3d model. Any tips for UM2+? #ultimaker #3Dprinting
  17. Hello, Is there a way to have the Ultimaker 2+ Connect list the weight and cost of a print on the display screen? I know it can be set up in Cura but I'm hoping this info can be accessed directly on the machine. Thanks
  18. Is there a way to activate footprint probing on the UM3? i.e. active levelling probing within the area of the print instead of the entire build surface area. I seem to remember hearing the functionality was there but just not enabled. I ask because I found this interesting snippet of code in '/usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json' "bed_level_probing": { // "use_footprint_probing": false, // Whether or not to just probe the footprint of the object "use_footprint_probing": true, // Whether or not to just probe the footprint of the object As above, I changed the value to true but there didn't seem to be much effect. It didn't break the machine at least, so that's nice. There was also an option for a filament runout sensor, which was a feature scrapped at the last minute for this particular machine if I recall? I'm aware development for the UM3 isn't really a thing anymore but this would be a cool feature to have if the community can hack it! Cheers
  19. Hi wonderful people, I just bought the Creality Ender 5 Pro (got a good deal) for my first ever 3d printer. I've managed to print out some ready made gcode to verify the hardware is all good, I've got clean prints. Now I found Thingiverse and trying to print this simple Pepe frog model, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:735928 I load it into Cura 4.11.0, I got a basic PLA profile, I slice, and this is what I get in the preview (attached image). So it prints the brim and the eyes, but all the greyed out lines in the preview do not print. I have loaded up other models too, many of them do the same, just greyed out after slicing. What is going on? This is probably something simple, as I am totally new, but I been googling for hours about Cura greyed out this and that and haven't found a solution. Feels bad man. Please someone throw me a bone..
  20. The Kodak Portrait comes with a custom version of an old version of Cura. I'm on a Mac, and that app stopped working on my first OS update. The makers of the printer have no plan that I see to update their version, so I'm basically orphaned now. I'm hoping someone here has had some experience getting current versions of Cura working for it. Their support tried to have me set Cura up with their parameters. It did not work.
  21. Hi all! I'm new to the Ultimaker 3, but I have several 2+. When I put in my USB file with the gcode, I go to "Print" and tap on the name of the file. It briefly flashes to "preparing" and then instantly cancels it out and takes me back to the menu screen. It does this for anything I try to print. I thought it might be a firmware update, but when I go to install the stable firmware update, it never finds an update and it just keeps spinning. Anyone have thoughts?
  22. Hi There Im new to the 3D printing world and have started with running a few test prints i have found off Thingiverse. I am able to print anything except moving parts. I tried printing a tolerance test found on thingiverse that has different tolerances ranging from 0.1mm to 0.6mm. All of them stick. Do you have any settings i can look over in Cura to combat this? Im printing off a Creality Ender 3 V2 with PLA. Bed temperature is at 56 degrees as per manufacturers specs on the box of PLA and the nozzle temperature is at 200 degrees C. Ive attached stl. file of print to give a fuller picture. TOLERANCETEST.STL
  23. I was printing stuff just fine, but all of a sudden my prints come out like garbage, and i cant figure out why, the support doesnt print like it should, the warpping is biblical and every one out there seems to only print in PLA which has no warping. Im printing Nylon. also the corners are not sharp at all the top of the print is off even though i use auto leveling. obviously im doing everything wrong. so where do i start , to the belts need to be replaced or what? i will print a cube to show u the results. thanks for reading my incoherent rant!
  24. please help i am pulling my hair out 🙂 ...but it shows"printer setup disabled, gcode cannot be modified", any solutions?
  25. Looking for help with a S5 bundle. I keep getting this error message (ER86) when I try to print with an S5 with air manager. I've changed the filter and checked the fan and can't see any issue. The printer also keeps dropping from Digital Factory printer list. When it is on the list, it won't start any of the pending prints. When I run a print via a USB, it fails because of ER86. Any ideas?
  • Create New...