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  1. My Anet A8 is running MARLIN vers. 1.19 - I have used Cura 14.07 as recommended by the seller, and I could with 14.07 slice and print direct to my Anet A8. Now, I have installed the last version of CURA 4.11.0, but I can not find my way to print direct to my printer. Is it not possible anymore ? or how do I start printing without using an SD-card??? Thanks for all answer...
  2. Longtime user and lover of ultimakers here since the start: I personally own an original, X2 UM2gos (the best ones IMO) and a UM3 and at work I manage a large fleet of X2 UMs5, X2 UM3, X2 UM2go, X8 UM2+ and now we just got X4 UM2+ Connects. We also have about 10 other "pro level" (expensive) printers. We have around 30 printers total. We run the Tinkergnome firmware (ver16, anything newer has a fatal bug, please fix that Mr. Tinkergnome) on all the 2+ versions, this firmware makes them my most used printers out of all of them, yes including the ones that cost between 30k and 80k. This is because with tinkergnome everything is visible and tunable, it feels like a professional tool such as a CNC machine, not a toy. Ive had the UM2+ connects for over a week and the Hardware is a great upgrade, but the firmware is like a child's toy. To us this is a MAJOR step back and is a total deal breaker for me, Where is the tune menu? Wheres the printing data? For example: when the machine is warming up the screen just has text that says "the machine is warming up" and nothing else, no number, no status bar. When we got the S5 I was disappointed by how few options are in the menus but with the UM2+ connects you cant even change temps or feed rates while the machine is running, let alone see any data at all. ......Even my cheap 200 dollar Ender3 shows me this So am I missing something? Help me out because Im ready to throw these glorified toys in the trash and get old UM2+ machines on Ebay Is this thing even running Marlin?? REQUEST: Pro level firmware for the UM2+ Connect that has ALL options and shows ALL data, even options that will crash/break the machine if used improperly by an idiot. Rant over, Thank you.
  3. I have a new Ultimaker S5 Pro set up and it was running just fine for the first couple of weeks and now the material station has a very odd error. Bay A in the material station has an illuminated blue light but there is no material loaded to that bay. It seems to think there is material loaded but there isn't. I have tried to load material in that bay but it will not accept anything into feeder 1, it doesn't do anything when I try to load the material. And if I try to load material into feeder 2 it actively repels it. Has anyone got a suggestion to fix this. That blue light is annoying me and I am down to only having 5 usable material bays
  4. Hello, I have a broken build plate clamp on the S5 printer which needs to be replaced. I have done this before for the ultimaker 3 using the manual from ultimaker (Manual) but there is no guide for the S5 on the ultimaker website. The builtplate is a bit different, making it harder to measure the height between the base plate and the heating bed on the S5. So I was wondering if I still could follow the U3 procedure on the S5 or should I change some steps. Thanks in advance for your replies.
  5. Hello Is there a way to view how many grams a print will be once a file has been sliced and saved? If not would the only way to determine this after slicing be to weigh the printed object on a scale? Looking to create pricing procedures for a library system. Thank you.
  6. I'm using Cura v4.11 to print a PLA disc using an Ultimaker 3. Ideally I would like to print the top surface only with concentric rings, keeping the bottom surface to lines (the top and bottom are slightly different widths and I get an odd kink in the bottom layer if that, also, is concentric). So, first question is: is it possible to limit concentric rings to the top layer only. Secondly, can I get it to print from centre out (or outside to in)? At the moment it will only print inside to halfway out and then outside to halfway in which gives a two-tone affect (I haven't yet tried smoothing because of the additional printing time)
  7. I just discovered Surface Mode and am loving it for the great things I can print now with a single non-closed extrusion, but I'm having a little bit of issues at the end of the extrusions. It would help the print quality as well as a little bit of speed if I could alternate which end of the extrusion the print head starts from. Basically I want the print head to go to the nearest point once it finishes the previous layer, which will almost always be straight up. It wouldn't even need to retract. I've tried a few different things, but I can't seem to find a setting, or combination of settings to get the result I want. Does anyone know if it's possible? I'm looking into this further and for some reason the print head travels back to the starting location at the end of the layer. So the new layer is probably starting at the closest location, but that location is following a seemingly unneeded travel. It seems like the Layer Start X and Layer Start Y settings are causing the print head to jump back to the nearest point on the model to the specified X&Y location. Is there any way to get those settings removed or ignored? This image shows the print head after traveling back to the starting location after printing the layer.
  8. Just got my Ultimaker S5 and I'm loving it. That said, the 'cooldown' at the end takes forever, and it really sucks to endure when I'm just going to build something else right away (especially when I get my second glass bed I can chuck in there while the other one cools down). There's a 'skip cooldown' feature that is greyed out however, but seems to be exactly what I'm looking for. How do I get this to work? In the meantime, is powercycling the machine to skip the cooldown OK, or does it cause some sort of problem? Thanks!
  9. Hi all. 3D printing newb here with a hopefully simple question about slicing my small model that has embossed text on the side. It's just a small toy for my daughter that has the text "Love" embossed on the side. Cura seems to not recognise that the bottom of the characters is a surface and leaves a gap. Here's a slicer preview. I've circled the 'L' character and as you can see, there are no wall/lines and the infill is visible through the gap. I can 'fix' the problem by increasing the wall count to enough to fill the gap, but obviously having a wall count of 4+ when I normally have only 2 seems like a bit of a hacky solution and takes way longer to print. What am I doing wrong here? Is it my model? The embossed text is 1mm deep which I would thing sould be enough, right? Is there some setting I'm missing? Although I have tested on the built-in Standard setting with the same result. This can't be a bug I'm sure? Any light someone can shine on this issue would be much appreciated.
  10. I am trying to switch back to Cura after using Simplify3D for years. So far it seems to be much more powerful than I remember. One thing I can't figure out how to do though is disable the base and middle layers of a raft, so it will only print top layers. I do this regularly in Simplify3D for prints out of Carbon Fiber Nylon filaments. This is partly for adhesion, but also for more consistent surface finish of the bottom of the part. Having only a thin (2 top layer) raft allows super easy removal of the raft. If I print with base/middle layers, then it makes it much stiffer, and harder to remove. Is there a way to disable the base/middle layers of the raft? Currently if I set the thickness to 0 it just fails on slicing. I have tried setting other parameters of them to zero as well, also with no luck. This is almost a deal breaker for me, because it adds a lot of print time and material usage (and CF-Nylon filament is expensive). If this is not currently possible, then is there somewhere to make this an official feature request? Thanks!
  11. Hi all, I've read about this error before, but did not find a solution working for me yet. If I tell my Ultimaker S5 to skip cooldown, it doesn't really skip it and the removal of the part cannot be confirmed. I have to wait for the build plate to cool down completely to be able to start a new print. As I'm currently printing with ABS, this means a very long waiting time of cooling and heating up again between two prints. Does anyone have a similar problem and has a solution for it? The firmware is already up to date and cannot be updated. Thanks!
  12. I'd like a way to put a negative value here so to get for example 1 perimeter on top/bottom and 4 walls the rest of the print. to get a nice surface. I haven't found this functionality in cura, but if it exists please let me know. If not please please please implement it, this is one of few things making me go to other slicers sometimes
  13. While printing a circle the ultimaker makes different offsets in x and y. The circle/zylinder usually messures 42mm (diameter). I got 42.08mm in x and 42.28 mm in y. Z is no problem. I tried different settings already but nothing solved the problem so far. I also did a maintanance of all axes and so on but it didn't help. I didn't do the axle alligment with thealigment tools ultimaker suggets, because if iprint a dice the offset in x and y are almost the same. So I figured it must be more of a programmatically problem instead of a mechanical one. Is there a way to programm a solution (maybe via g code) into cura like: "If circle, do one step in x and one in y, instead of one in x and 2 in y..." My Printer: Ultimaker S5 (model until 2020) Version 6.5.1 Cura 4.9 Toleranz-Pruefkoerper_fein.STL
  14. Ultimaker 3, latest firmware, Cura 4.11, .4mm nozzle, Ultimaker Grey ABS, 225c / 65c, Layer Height .3, Initial .27, width: .35 or .4, Initial layer width: 100, 105, 110 and 120% Walls 3, Bottom layers 3, Printing at 220c, I can't seem to get my bottom surface to print smoothly, but I'm not sure what the result is telling me. I'm getting great adhesion, and the top layer looks exactly the same when I don't iron it. How can I make it look more like the top surface?
  15. @Ultimaker 2+ why nobody seems to talk about how to keep a good balance Quality/Speed? Real problems are how to print under 8 hours big complex models with loads of overhangs ,very thin walls and it's not feasible to split the 3d model. Any tips for UM2+? #ultimaker #3Dprinting
  16. The addition of the monotonic feature really brought home to me how odd top/bottom surfaces end up looking because of the intrusion of walls into those surfaces. Consider the attached dolphin keyring. The contrast between the wall lines and the skin lines is quite severe. What I want is more like this: (using walls = 0) but no wall at all can produce some ugliness at the edges. This is only really noticeable when the top surface isn't a trivial square/circle, but when it's noticeable it really spoils the surface. Dauphin.stl
  17. I'm trying to use Cura 4.11 with my Lulzbot Taz 6. I can't even really get started though because the starter code uses gcode variables that Cura apparently ignores now. For my start gcode, I have : M109 R{material_wipe_temperature} ; wait for extruder to reach wiping temp Which should replace the variable with the extruder temp as below: M109 R140 ; wait for extruder to reach wiping temp But it doesn't... It just prints exactly that line, curly brackets and all in my final gcode. There are several other areas where variables are used and they are all ignored. Is there a special setting I should turn on somewhere? Were these variables removed at some point? I can't imagine why they would have as they are really useful.
  18. Dear Ultimaker: I recently bought the pro bundle and I noticed that before every single print, the MS will feed filament all the way through the tubes into the print head and extrude a bunch of plastic to clear the nozzle before making the part. After the print completes, the MS will extrude even more filament (pushing and pulling back and forth) in order to shape the tips of the filament into knobs for easier retraction because apparently thin strings will jam up the mechanisms. Then, after a delay. it fully retracts material 1 completely back into itself and leaves the PVA support spool partially retracted, a few inches above the print head. Why can't we leave both filaments in the print cores after a print so the next job can be started immediately? I am forced to pack more parts into a single job at once because the start and end delays waste too much time and plastic. If anything, the prime/deprime procedure should occur only when the user requests a change in filament; if you intend on sticking to one main variety like PETG there's so much overhead. When reloading filament the material station doesn't ask: "Let me know when the plastic is extruding correctly" like the vanilla S5 does; instead it pushes out plastic on a set timer. I understand that a lot of the design choices were made assuming automation and remote operation, and the machine needs to extrude extra plastic than normal just to be absolutely sure. But a user still needs to be around to swap the glass plate between print jobs anyway so what does it matter? All in all, I think the material station has a serious lack of manual control or customization to fit the user's needs. It acts like an uncontrollable black box that needs to be worked around. I would like to request a new feature at your earliest convenience: 1. Ability to manually change filaments with the MS (where the user can confirm the plastic is extruding correctly) 2. Option to prevent automatic filament retraction at the end of a print I feel as though these two changes would make the material station absolutely perfect for a user like me; a true asset instead of an obstacle to productivity. And it doesn't seem so hard to implement, since it involves skipping an existing process instead of creating something brand new. At the time of this writing (Sept 18), I'm on the latest firmware: 6.5.1. Are any other users having this problem?
  19. Hey all, So I've been experimenting with bridging settings for ABS and have some settings I like which entails having a lower density for the bridge layer. This all seems to be working as expected and no questions here. What I found interesting is that if I apply a block to my bottom layer and set it to "Mesh Type: Modify settings for overlaps (Cutting Mesh)" that I have something interesting happen. Even through the bottom layer is a complete skin the slicer detects the next layer as a bridge and goes and prints it at the lower density. Seems like the slicer is detecting the bottom layer as empty because of the modifier block and is attempting to bridge it. I'm seeing this in cura 4.4, 4.8, and 4.11 Attached is a picture showing the bottom 2 layers of a cube where I have done this. Anyone have any ideas how to keep the experimental bridging settings enabled while also being able to add a modifier as I have done?
  20. I just did some calibration and retraction testing using custom gcode and ended up with a retraction speed of 45mms and liked the way it looked compared to 40, when I tried putting 45 into cura it went red and said I couldn't do that. Why and how can I get it to do what I want?
  21. I'm using Cura 4.11.0 on a Macintosh to slice my designs for printing on a Snapmaker A250. I've turned on ironing on the top layer only, and where it works, it smooths perfectly. The problem is it doesn't smooth the entire surface, but leaves portions of the surface actually rougher then if iron wasn't on. Here's a couple of pictures, sorry for the brightness but I needed to be able to show the issue. You can see at the top and bottom of the print it's really rough. I've had this issue with a couple of different designs now. I'm including the curaprofile, the stl file and the gcode file. Any help will be greatly apppreciated. Thanks, GWFAMI S2A_top w_grid v1_1-Fusion.gcode top w_grid v1_1-Fusion.stl
  22. When I'm loading material in my S5 the screen will show a little warning icon next to materials that I shouldn't load with the current print core. That's great, but it only works if the printer actually has a profile for the material you're loading. I've got some glow in the dark PLA which works great with "generic PLA" settings, but the maker (MatterHackers) says it's abrasive and I should only use it with a CC print core. The problem is it's easy to forget when switching materials to switch the print core too. What I want to do is create a profile for this material that'll warn me if I try to load it with the wrong print core installed, but I haven't been able to figure out how to do it. Any suggestions?
  23. I am trying to dry printer filament. I need to set the build plate temp to 80C for 10 hrs and place the filament in the printer. However i don't see any settings to manually set the temp or time. Is this possible? Is there another way i can dry filaments without purchasing an oven? Thanks Material - Fibretuff 2 Machine - Ultimaker S5 pro bundle
  24. The mandatory cooldown time forcing the bed to drop below 60C is really quite frustrating when trying to print higher temp materials which require enclosures and higher ambient temperatures. When I'm printing ABS with a 100C build plate I really need to let it warm for like 30-60 minutes to ensure that the ambient temp in the printer is high enough that I don't get warping and layer splitting. If I have a failed print due to something like I just did where the autolevel decided to ram my nozzle very far into the build plate at one spot I basically loose 2hrs of print time as I need to let the thing fully cool down. I then need to let it fully warm up and get the air back to the required 35C ambient before I can tell it my print has been removed and then restart my print. I get this is a safety feature to prevent people from trying to rip prints off a hot glass bed and either damage themselves or the printer but there needs to be an advanced options menu to skip this for these kind of scenarios. The skip cooldown option that comes up doesn't seem to do anything here when it isn't greyed out. I am missing something basic or is there a way to disable or change this safe cooldown temp with a variable or something? At this point I'm basically taking files home from my lab and printing them on my home printer (a Voron 2.4) as it does ABS better than this one. Users at some of our other sites ask me if they should replace their Prusa MK3s with S5s and honestly I'm having a hard time saying yes. At face value this printer will handle these higher temp materials better and hardware wise it's superior but then the limitations int he firmware for stuff like this make it very hard to recommend.
  25. I have an Ultimaker 2+ that will not print correctly. When I came back to school over the summer and tried to print something, very little filament would come out of the print head and when it did, it would curl up on itself. I did an atomic method to make sure everything inside the nozzle was fine and when I did, the filament came out just fine upon pressing down and it came out the perfect shape (No dirt or anything. So then I figured it was something to do with the filament feeding. Sure enough, when I took out the filament, there was grinding at the part of the plastic that was in the feeder. I took off the feeder and cleaned it out and reassembled everything again. I did yet another atomic clean just to make sure nothing was stuck after another failed print and then finally reloaded the plastic. It's still doing the same thing. I've also tried turning up the temperature of the nozzle just in case. I'm pretty sure something is causing the filament to not move correctly and therefore, it's grinding. But after cleaning out the feeder, it fed the filament correctly when reloading, so it's something that's happening during the print. Hope all of that made sense.
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