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3D printer

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  1. I was watching the printer to figure out why it takes so long to start a print and one thing stands out that wastes time. Just before leveling, the print core is brought up to temperature. Once the leveling starts, it seems the heat is turned off. With the nozzle repeatedly touching the glass, it cools the nozzle back down. This then requires the printer to wait again for the print core to heat up before starting the print. Why couldn't it continue to keep the print core up to temperature during leveling and save the time it takes to re-heat a second time?
  2. Hi, Im working since 2 years with ultimaker and the digital factory, and i love both. But i wanna change sometimes the name of the print jobs and dont wanna repuload them with another name. That would be really nice ❤️
  3. Hey there, I have a bunch of spool that sit in open air for too long now, and cannot buy and place as many dryer as it would be required, because of the limited area i'm working in. Anyway, I'd like to dry some spool alltogether during the few days I have with the printer not running. I've found how to heat manually the bed, but nothing about the chamber itself, that would be the most interestring to dry spools. Is there a way to control this parameter ? Or should it be a request ? In general, I don't understand why we have so many limitation regarding the manual control of this printer, regardind axis movements, temperatures, etc.
  4. One request would be for a high temp version of the silicone nozzle covers that can withstand temps upwards of 300 °C. I primarily print in carbon filled nylon and carbon filled polycarbonate, and many of my prints run between 4-6 days of continuous printing - so at the end of one print run my silicon nozzle cover looks like this. The burnt side was from a 6 day print with NylonX at 265° on the hot end, the other side was my support material (Aquasys120) at 240°. I basically have to replace the cover after every print because it gets so crispy that it starts dropping bits of burnt silicon onto the print. I am guessing anybody else running consistently much above 250° is going to have the same issue - I for one would be willing to pay more for a cover that lasted longer at high temps vs. one that I have to constantly replace and constantly is dropping bits of burnt silicone onto the prints.
  5. Hello, Sorry for my bad english (google trad) i'm french. I use the "Bridge Fan Speed" function in the "Experimental" category. The problem is : The fan takes a long time to come up to speed, so the start of the bridge is not cooled enough. Can you add a parameter that orders an additional ventilation time in advance ? Here is a diagram to list the problem: Regular Fan speed : 60% Bridge Fan Speed : 100% Thanks, Merry Christmas.
  6. Just a small feature that most slicer do offer. when I installed the auto tower extension there was nothing i had to do to make a temp tower just select the model. in the gcode preview there is no colour scheme for temperature. no bid deal just opened the gcode file in notpad and ctrl + f to find m104 command to make sure it was actally changing temps. be nice to have this option in the colour scheme.
  7. I recently purchased a UM2+ Connect and have found a few "quirks" with it. I have owned and used many UM2+'s over the years and figured it would be a good upgrade. However, I've been feeling conflicted after a couple weeks of using it. There are many things that I like about it. The air manager is great, especially since I use the printer in my home office. The ability to upload files via the cloud is really convenient, no more fiddling with SD cards. The model preview when selecting a file from USB is helpful. The touch screen is good too but could be more responsive, it seems to not register my taps sometimes. First major annoyance is the new material loading/unloading procedure. Why do we have to manually feed material now? This is a huge pain for me because of where I have my printer located I basically have to hug the printer, load the spool onto the holder, insert the end into the feeder and push it all the way in basically by feel. The automated load/unload is a feature for all the other machines even the current S3/S5 which has the same feeder housing with the locking lever. Is this an attempt to make the Connect feel "cheaper" compared to others in UM's lineup? Second is the new buildplate adjustment. The old procedure initially did a rough adjustment at three points and then went around again with your calibration card or feeler gauge. But now the nozzle simply moves to the fine adjustment points, no rough adjustment. Which is fine in a perfect world, quicker and easier. But on my particular machine, the front right nut bottomed out and the nozzle was still pushing down on the glass (other UM2C users have posted about this before as well). I ended up swapping the limit switch screw with a shorter one to address this. But this wouldn't be an issue in the first place if the rough adjustment step was still there. I wanted to add a BuildTak magnetic base but that easily adds another 6-8mm of thickness and I don't think I can use a screw short enough to accommodate that without the adjustment knobs colliding with the floor of the machine. Third is the UI which has been discussed here before as well. I understand many users don't want to fiddle with different settings, which is fine but at least with the UM2+ the tune menu was there if you needed it. These are all issues that could be addressed in firmware updates but unlike the older UM2+ which at least has options like the Tinker FW, it's up to UM now to fix...
  8. I'll start off by saying I have no clue how to implement this just a suggestion So the problem I see all the time is the top layers will obviously print whatever the shape of the top layers without taking into consideration what is underneath. Say using cubic, you could have multiple curves printed in thin air and all that does is cause a mess. What I was thinking was do a zigzag/lines pattern that would fully fill the infill pattern under where the top would normally be printing in thin air, but only where necessary as shown below Maybe call it conform to infill, or whatever
  9. I just got this Ultimaker 2 as a 2nd hand gift and the previous owner said it had a few issues. I've solved all but one issue, the printer keeps trying to print off of the bed and constantly bumps the metal braces for the bed. I've tried resetting it but that's it because I've never worked with a Ultimaker before. What can I do to fix this?
  10. A while ago I printed some bungs in TPU but they were weak and split, so I strengthened them by putting some internal cylinders inside. I know they printed because I could feel them when I squeezed the print. I not tried the same on a PLA print which is snapping, but this time they are not printed. Not in the print visually while printing and not in the cross section in cura. Has this feature been removed in newer versions, or if not how do I turn it on again? Many thanks for your help
  11. Would it be possible to tie the file naming convention to the profile instead if the machine? Example: I have several Ender 3 Pros but use different profiles for some of them due to different hotends or nozzle sizes so they use different profiles but all the Gcodes export as CE3PRO. If the file name would pull from the profile or we had a way to change the naming convention in the profile this would make identifying which machine the gcode was made for without having to preview it. It is frustrating that we don't have control over the naming convention for the exported gcode.
  12. Would love this feature for my S5, I can't find any reference for it so I assume it doesn't exist yet. My situation is that I need to have jobs run to really strict timings, and if I could schedule a job so that it starts in the middle of the night and finishes just minutes after I arrive on site then I'd already be 1 job up in my day. I won't have to wait for any heat-up time as well. Is this something that might be considered? Thanks!
  13. In the latest version 5.2.1 I have noticed that when you hover of a tool function in the Print Settings that the graphics in the popups have been removed and ONLY the text shows. I found that the graphics where very helpful to explain what the text means. Why was this removed? Can it be re-instated. I know that I can go to the website for "Print Settings in Cura Support" and this shows them, but it is more convenient to view from within CURA when adjusting settings. This is especially true for newbies (like me) who have difficulty in remembering what each setting does.
  14. Hi all. For a fun side project, I got a LuckyBot Food extruder for my Creality Ender 3 Pro. It required an old version of Cura, "some pre-Gcode" to run, and a lot of tuning. Yuck!!!🤢 So I created a small Hackaday.io project to create some proper Cura printer, extruder, and material profiles. This is my first machine configuration for Cura so recommendations or suggestions on what I should change are welcome. If you have a LuckyBot, some testing would be appreciated too. https://hackaday.io/project/187144-food-printing-with-luckybot The actual config files are on github: https://github.com/burhop/cura-luckybot
  15. I just got my M2 iPad Pro. Which mostly uses the same chip as in the Mac Book Air. SO, is there going to be a M1/M2 ipad version. I love using my Pencil and touch screen to move my model around. Much easier than using the Trackpad on my M1-MAX Macbook pro.
  16. Good Day all, Recently, my 3d printer (UM S5) is not working properly. First : I did manual leveling many times but it shows me an error massage due to unrealistic leveling and I cannot print Second : The print head when moving in x-axis towards the door of the printer it hit the frame of the machine , I think it exceeds the stop point. I'M NOT SURE WHAT IS THE ISSUE ANY SUGGISTIONS ?
  17. Hello, I have a persistent issue with "pitting" (underextrusion at start of outer wall) with a lot of my single-wall prints. I'm curious if others have ran into this and what they're solutions might be? I find it almost impossible to control extrusion precisely enough to prevent the occasional "pit" when moving to an outer wall, especially when you have large geometries you're printing with a large nozzle and a stringy filament. In this worse case, sometimes the pits can be pretty bad. My approach currently is to use "firmware retraction" and simply mess with the firmware implementation in klipper (where I have a little more freedom) until I get a good solution/compromise for the given geometry. Wipe distance / combing / extra prime amount / etc. are not usually helpful in my experience. There are a few strategies that I suspect could be interesting. A simple strategy that I think could help for many geometries is to simply allow the option to print top/bottom segments before infill segments, as sometimes it's easier to stabilize the flow while printing infill segments instead of top/bottom segments (I mention this in a bit more detail in the github issue tracker, but haven't gotten a response). Another potentially interesting feature is to allow starting outer wall segments "early", so basically you have a short inner wall when possible. i.e. you have just enough inner wall to stabilize flow and get the extruder into a "known state" before beginning a visible wall. This might have many edge cases, but for many geometries it might be the most reliable way to stabilize flow prior to beginning the visible outer wall line. Anyway, just two cents. I'd be interested to hear any other thoughts or approaches people take. Or should I just give up and always print with at least two outer wall lines?
  18. Wanting to print polymaker PA12-cf Nylon don’t have any cc nozzles So the profile will not work Can anyone help me to what setting I should print at i know it will mess up my nozzles but a have a lot of them so no biggie
  19. Hey After I updated to 5.2.1 I am no longer able to make a perfectly stacked seam alignment On round objects I normaly make a dent or "slit" in my models to help Cura understand where I want the seam. Or to be able to use the "sharpest corner" I still works somewhat... BUT it moves the seam a little which makes a huge difference in the final print. Note that no matter what "z seam alignment" or "seam corner preference" it doesn't get better than the picture (sharpest corner and hide seam) Wish u guys could add an option or perfect the sharpest corner option.
  20. I have cura 5.1.1 on my main laptop, have 5.1.1 on my kids laptop, but my wife has a macbook pro (running Catalina 10.15.3), which has some sort of a problem running 5.1.1, and thus needs to be on 5.1.0 With my and my kids laptops, I am able to synchronize my settings/materials using the backup/restore function, which works quite well with adding new materials to our library. This does not work between versions, however, so I am unable to do this to my wife's macbook pro. This means manually exporting each individual material and importing them on her computer. Furthermore, if I tweak something later, I need to repeat this process. I anticipate this problem with 5.1.1 not running on a mac is likely to occur with future versions as macos is probably not front of the line for testing. In an environment where multiple installations are being used, it would be nice to share material libraries. *** Is it then possible to have a materials synchronization feature separate from backup/restore, or could it be possible to have cross-version backup/restore (within limitations when breaking settings are introduced). Does this already exist somehow (for non-ultimaker machines) that I am missing? Printer: Qidi X-Plus Laptops: Windows 11, Windows 11 Pro, Macbook Pro mid 2014 running Catalina 10.15.3 She is quite particular with her laptop to be able to run her various graphics applications, and has been hesitant to upgrade the OS beyond its current version, which I recognize may be one of the issues at play. Thanks, Ben
  21. Hi guys, i'm new to the 3d world, i just did my first prints with my ender 3v2 and results are awesome, i did the cat and dog from the card that came with the printer.. now i've download the lastest Cura software, Now here's my problem.. i want to make a temp tower so i load the .stl file in cura, then i slice the tower. i go in preview mode but i only have the xray view, i don't have any layer view and the layer scrollbar on the right doesn't appear. -I tried so far to: uninstall the cura 4.11 version and went with the 4.9 which doesnt help, -I tried to enable force layer view compatibility mode ( my selection won't stay enabled, as soon i close the windows and go back the choice is not enabled.. (still i restarted cura after and didn't change anything) Here's my computer spec: Windows 7 pro 4gb ram Inter pentium dual cpu e2160 @1.80ghz 1.80ghz Geforce GTX 550 Ti
  22. hi guys. Is there a way to see how much material a job in my library requires? i just cant seem to find this information anywhere. It would be nice if i can look at the library and see that i need x amount of material, or to fit in a small job from the library at the end of my roll. (my continuous printing system in the material manager works 1 in 5 times, so we try to avoid using it) So basically info next to each job in the library displaying the material length would be very beneficial as it currently only shows the print time which is essentially half the information required before you start it off.
  23. Windows and Linux both can utilize multiple desktops. I think it'd be extrememly useful if a Cura "project" would include multiple print beds..... A folder of projects of sorts. Then complete prep work can be done within a single file for very large projects while the initial print is taking place! Maybe we could mark a specific print successful or failed (or even specific pieces) to help with transparency within business applications? Big lift, but just spitballing some ideas.
  24. Hi! I've been 3d printing for about 2 years now and only have used Blender (version 2.91 I believe) and Ultimaker Cura (now version 4.11) for all my prints, but recently when I go to print out a new mold my printer only prints in a zig-zag in the same spot. I let it go for a minute or so but it still was doing the same spot. I've tried a old test gcode I made to level my bed and that works fine. I'm not sure if it is something i have done to my settings, or if this was an update on either program, help would be greatly appreciated!!
  25. I can only find "Top/Bottom Line Width" setting, is there no possibility to set different line width for top and bottom? It would be very useful, using a high value for bottom (like 150% of nozzle size) would greatly reduce print speed for large flat objects, but using the same value for top is not a good idea. I generally like using higher values for speed and strength, but it's problematic for overhangs, bridges and the first top layers, so it would be great to be able to set a different line width for these.
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