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Found 335 results

  1. Hi all! After a strange noise during printing the Forbidden Watchtower by Kjai I paused, resume and paused again and quit this print. Looks like it also cause a layer shift: Video_UM2(+)Noise_14seconds / google drive What's going on here? By the way I'm using UM2(+) printer, Simplify3D v4 and thinkerMarlin 17.10.1 as firmware 1: Bearing problem? 2: Lack of lubrication on XY the axles? It's tought to move with printer shutted down. 3: Slicer problem? In preview looks fine. Firmware problem? 4: Belt? Everything seems in place. 5: None of the above 😁
  2. cdrose

    Empty Spool Weight

    Hi everyone, Figured I would make a thread of a list of empty spool weights that can be updated as we collect them, if you so desire. Post a picture as evidence and round up to the closest 5g 👍 ColorFabb Fillamentum MatterHackers RigidInk Ultimaker 750g Spool = 235g I did do a search and haven't found a thread like this so apolagise if I missed it. Thanks!
  3. varazir

    Unnecessary travels

    Hello, I'm trying to print a model I have designed in Fusion 360 ( STL attached ) When looking at the travels for this part it's a lot that shouldn't be needed. There are 2 outer walls and a inner. Seam settings is set to Sharpest corner and Hide seam. Don't know what settings you want so please let me know and I'll post them. Flower Pot MK II v22_Flower Pot MK II v22_OuterPot_1_Body1_OuterPot.stl
  4. Guten Morgen zusammen, ich rätsel jetzt seit ungefähr 2 Wochen ob es möglich ist bei einem Druck 2 Objekte aber mit unterschiedlichen Einstellungen zu drucken. Als Beispiel wäre das für ein Benchmarking oder Optimierung der Druckeinstellungen gut. Was stell ich mir vor: Objekt A ein Würfel wird mit Geschwindigkeit 60 mm/s gedruckt und Objekt B ein Würfel wird mit 120 mm/s gedruckt. In Cura an sich gibt es diese Einstellung nicht soweit ich weiß, sobald das zweite Objekt hinzugefügt wird übernimmt es die Einstellungen des ersten Parts automatisch. Hat jemand eine Idee? Lg TIm
  5. I recently upgraded my UMO with a modified version of the UM2 Extruder Upgrade Kit, and found the printhead below the TFM coupler to be leaking slightly: Is this acceptable? If not, how do I fix it?
  6. Hallo ich habe meinen UM3 erst seit 3 Tagen, allerdings hatte ich heute schon 2x das Problem, dass er zu Drucken beginnt, aber kein Filament kommt - wie wenn der PrintCore verstopft wäre. Heute Vormittag wollte ich mit einem bereits geladenen Filament drucken, er hat auch wie immer begonnen, aber es kam nichts. Ich habe dann einen Material Unload gemacht und neu geladen und dann hat es funktioniert. Doch vorhin ist es mir gleich nach dem Load von einer anderen Rollen ebenso passiert. Altes Filament Unloaded, dann Spule gewechselt und geladen. Filament kam dann auch aus dem PrintCore und ich habe bestätigt. Danach gleich einen Druckauftrag geschickt, er hat begonnen, aber es kam nichts mehr raus. Danach habe ich wieder das Spiel mit Unload/Load gemacht und jetzt druckt er. Was könnte hier das Problem sein? Spulen waren beide Ultimaker PLA Spulen. Settings etc. in Cura alles Default bzw. die Recommended Settings. Ich habe auch schon an die derzeitige Luftfeuchtigkeit gedacht, wir haben hier in den letzten Tagen rund 75% RLF, allerdings habe ich die PLA Spule vorhin erst frisch ausgepackt, also die kann noch nicht viel Feuchte gezogen haben. Die ersten beiden Tage, hat er problemlos funktioniert und da wurde schon einiges gedruckt und auch FIlement (Farbe) gewechselt. Danke! Gruß Christian.
  7. Hello, I installed CURA 3.4.1 yesterday. It worked very well and I sliced some objects and printed them (Anycubic i3 Mega). Since today CURA does not start. It seems to initialise some things sucessfully but stops reacting when initialising the user interface (program window). Can anybody help me? Thanks a lot!
  8. I keep receiving this error mid print. "Max temp. error on the build plate. Go to ultimaker.com/ER14" I check the cables on the build plate and the board as recommended. This is the only forum entry I see which addresses the issue:
  9. crooshe

    [Résolu]Sous Extrusion

    Bonjour, J'ai un problème avec une UM3 Neuve. Quand j'essaye d'imprimer au bout d'un certain temps le filament est rogné et j'ai alors de la sous extrusion (ou le contraire). J'ai essayer alors à partir des paramètre de base de Cura 3.4 : - Passage avec une rétractation à 4mm et vitesse 40mm/s - Vitesse d'impression à 60mm/s.... - Méthode atomic pour le nettoyage de la buse malgré que les première couche sont toujours parfaites. Et lors du chargement du filament je n'ai aucun problème. J'utilise du Polymaker Polymax mais j'ai essayé avec le PLA Ultimaker même résultat. Bref toujours le même problème et ça commence un peu à m'énerver parce que sur une Prusa I3 je n'ai jamais eu de tel problème pourtant la machine est pratiquement 6 fois moins chère.... Je peut faire des photos si vous voulez. Merci à tous de votre aide. Si vous avez des paramètre à me préconisé je suis preneur.
  10. Lately I've had a problem with underextrusion on my UM2. Something was causing a lot of backpressure, i could hear the extruder skip or hop on occasion, but i was having trouble finding it. After experimenting with extrusion temperature, different rolls of filament, extrusion speed, cleaning bowden tubes and extruder gears and housing, changing nozzles, still underextruding. Changed heatblock and heater/thermocouple, still problem. Then I re-took the hotend apart and found this.. Some plastic had gotten between the I2K spacer and the base of the stainless steel bit and hardened producing a constriction. I must missed this when exhanging bits. In case someone else is running into the dark corners exploring under extrusion, here is one more stone to turn over : ) Mathias
  11. I'm mainly posting this so that people with the same problem might find this via Google: Symptom: You have registered your Ultimaker S5 for network access via its ethernet port using its MAC address to assign a specific IP address. However it does not pick up the IP address and instead assigns a self assigned 169.x.x.x address. Problem: Some older / enterprise DHCP servers do not like you having an associated DNS if it starts with a number. 3D printers my be more prone to this if like me, you created a DNS "3dprint.myorg.com". Solution: If you do have a DNS associated with your 3D printer, make sure it doesn't start with a number or have a network that sucks less than ours.
  12. Hi I am new to 3D printing, so maybe that's not an issue and normal, but I think I have to ask the experts. I designed a simple rectangle 17x65mm and printed it with the "Fast" profile on my UM3 with UM PLA. In Cura the dimensions are still correct. But printed the rectangle actually has 66mm and 17.5mm. Scaling in Cura was 100% I think it could be something with the "elephant foot" thing, the rectangle is only 1mm thick, but not sure if the dimensions are generally quite accurate or not when printing in 3D? So is it normal that the actual print differs a little bit or more from the source file? Thanks BR Christian
  13. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot 😃
  14. I use BuildTak on my UM2+ and love it. Is it possible to use BuildTak on the UM3? I wonder if it would interfere with the new capacitive leveling function. It would seem like adding an extra couple of mm wouldn't make a difference with a capacitive sensor, but I wonder if Ultimaker can answer this officially.
  15. Currently Materials in 'Preferences>Materials' can only have their Filament Cost listed is Euros. The same is the case for the 'Cost specification' info that is displayed when the user mouses over the bottom of the sidebar. It would be nice if users had the ability to pick a currency of their choice. I'm located in the US and would like to enter the prices for the filaments I buy here. Seeing Euros there is just a bit odd. This really doesn't need to be as complicated as doing any sort of conversion or whatever. Users already enter the cost themselves, so this is purely an aesthetic request that would just specify what currency symbol is displayed I would really like an option to specify the Currency symbol myself, for example via a field in Preferences->General.
  16. SunLatios

    Impression en dehors du plateau

    Bonjour à tous ! Aujourd'hui j'ai voulu remettre en marche ma petite 2Go qui était resté sagement dans son caisson en attendant que des température plus clémente se fasse ressentir. J'ai utilisé un modèle configuré il y a quelques semaines avant de la mettre en veille. Du coup, je vais pour lancer mon impression via USB du fichier.gcode que j'avais préparé et la tête d'extrusion commence à vouloir allez imprimer en dehors du plateau, ce qui qu'elle cogne fortement sur les bords. J'ai immédiatement stoppé l'impression affin de ne pas endommagé mes poulies et mon plateau. J'ai pourtant fais en sorte que mon modèle soit à la bonne taille et rentre pile poil dans la zone du plateau. Voici la bébête : Ce qui m'étonne c'est que l'objet fasse 10x10x10 alors que j'avais fais exprès de faire un peu moins et aussi, le temps d'impression ne s'affiche pas. Est-ce normal ? Je précise que je n'ai rien bidouiller sur mes axes. Lorsque je lance un fichier contenu depuis la carte SD fournit, il n'y a aucun problème d'impression. Aussi, est-ce normal que l'imprimante largue du filament avant de commencer à imprimer sur le plateau ? Elle se place à l'extérieur, crache un peu de fil puis par directement vers le centre du plateau, ce qui laisse une belle traînée x) Si vous avez une idée du pourquoi elle est allez taper les bordures, ca serait génial ! Merci d'avance ~
  17. Hello everyone ! I know the topic is dealt in somewhere on the internet and on the community but I am still a bit confused and I still do not really know the root cause (and probably causes) of the problem... Could you help me please ? Every 3/4 hours of printing, the hotend gets jammed, and the filament looks like this -> The jamming is provoked by the thick section in the middle of the picture. The ring at the left occurs only when the hotend cools (I have to cut the tip everytime I want to start a new print). I do not really care about the left ring, the real problem is the thick section in the middle, I cannot print anything at the moment. The heating block is stock, as well as the heating cartridge and the sensor. For the other parts, they were changed 300 hundreds printing hours ago : - steel coupler (http://3dsolex.com/product/steel-coupler-v2-for-um2/) - ptfe coupler (http://3dsolex.com/product/ptfe-coupler-um2/) - 0.4 nozzle (http://3dsolex.com/product/rsb-0-40mm-nozzle/) - bowden tube (http://3dsolex.com/product/bowden-tube-clips/) Does anyone has an idea ? Thank you !
  18. Reverse_Engineer

    Printing off the job

    Hi everyone I'm new to all this, so sorry if I'm posting in the wrong place or asking about something that's been answered ad nauseum. I'm using a newly acquired Tevo tornado and slicing my stl's with Cura 3.4.1 (appimage) on a linux host. Some of my jobs print fine but sometimes the nozzle will shoot off to the side or front of the job and keep extruding while it's off the print job. This is leaving unwanted strings all over the place. Sometimes it gets so bad the extraneous strings get caught up in a bundle which wraps around the the nozzle and ruins the print. Sometimes it wants to head towards X home and other times it heads towards Y home while it's off the job and extruding. I read somewhere that minimum layer time can cause a similar problem , so I reduced that to 3 and it didn't help. Besides including a purge/wipe routine in the Cura machine settings, I've never had the need to even look at G-code until now, so I must admit I don't really know for sure what I'm looking at but I can't see any X or Y coordinates in the G-code to account for the extra off job trips the printer does. The X and Y coordinates in the G-code seem to stay within dimensions of the job being printed. I first noticed the printer going off job at 0.6 layer height of the print in the pic and examining the first few layers of the G-code shows no off print coordinates I can see. It kept doing it during the rest of the print and ended up ruining the print (a ball of crap wrapped around the nozzle and snapped the top off the print). I don't know if it helps but I'll include my profile settings and my G-code after slicing if anyone wants a look. The strings were a lot worse than what you see here, I've started snipping them off with scissors and trying to get rid of them whenever I notice them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. CCR10_My new Z nut bracket (narrow).gcode.zip Bracket profile (random strings).curaprofile
  19. Hello everyone ! I have a little problem with one of my UM2+. I upgraded to official bondtech 200 hundreds hours of printing ago and I start to have this problem : It occured once and now it is impossible to print anything... The two black bodies are firmly tightened and I tried to add some masking tape to increase the diameter of the plastic part but it still gets snatched. Does anyone have an idea ? Thank you !
  20. I was printing a somewhat complex and tall (1:5 aspect ratio) part (ABS) with several locations of overhang inside and outside the model, and as a result had to print supports (PVA). I set the minimum overhang angle to 15 degrees, but when I printed it, the model was encased in supports along sheer sides that don't require supports. To further illustrate what the slicer is doing, I have another example: I had to print some small parts and a large part, so I lumped them all together on the build plate for a neat overnight print. I had supports on for the benefit of the large part, the small parts have 0 locations of overhang. Yet the sides of the small parts were surrounded by support material (this time Breakaway). This is not only wasteful, but it also scars the sides of the part, why does the slicer construct these supports, and what settings could change this?
  21. I'm a bit confused, on Ultimakers site it is stated regarding UM2+: Optimized for:PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, TPU 95A But as I can understand by reading here on this supreme UM forum the TFM Isolator Coupler cant handle more than 240°C. Some of the above mentioned filament types seems to be needing well over 240°C. Can someone tell me more about this.
  22. After getting sick and tired of warping ABS I finally chucked it out the window put it in the bottom drawer. So I built a little desiccant box, popped my Nylon spool in, and set out printing. It's very strong, with little to no warping on all but the largest parts. However one persistent and regular issue is that near one corner of the print (though not wholly confined to there) appears large stringing/burls. Edit: Some additional observations, it appears the plastic making up the burs drips out of the nozzle while the printer switches filaments and is printing supports. What can I do in Cura to change this? The pictures attached are of the aforementioned corner of the print where the problem is. Feel free to ignore the PVA (two different support settings were used, hence one print's support has a bulge and the other doesn't) and folded-back brim.
  23. alonmln

    Floating support

    Hi, I have sliced a model I have made, but when I look at the layer view, the infill is not consistent, and in the middle, some of it is actually floating. Shown in the attached image. I have made the model with Fusion 360, slicer settings at 0.1mm nozzle, 50% grid infill. How can I fix this? I want the infill to be 50% throughout the entire inner body. Thanks!
  24. After leveling my printbed the typical way using a sheet of computer paper, I sometimes fine-tune by starting to print the object itself while adjusting the thumbscrew levelers on the fly. This allows me to micro-adjust the thickness of the material for the object I'm actually trying to print, insuring good coverage for that critical first layer. I usually add a decent-sized brim for the object I'm printing during this phase, so I get several passes around the object's "outline" to adjust the thumbscrews (whether the final print needs a brim or not). Then I print the object with or without the brim as is optimal for whatever I'm printing. Another trick to reduce/eliminate pull-up is to do the same as above, but then stop the print once you have an outline of your print on the printbed. I then get a fine sharpie and trace the outline on the glass bed. Then, I remove the deposited outline of the print from the printbed. Then, I use ye' olde glue stick, applying where the sharpie outline is. (Sharpie and glue stick residue remove easily with rubbing alcohol, and I keep a chemistry H20 dispenser of same right by my printer so I can squirt some on my printbed to clean it off after the print is done...) If there's glue over the sharpie, the sharpie won't get on your print, and if it does, it removes easily with the alcohol... Happy printing!
  25. I'm trying to smooth my ABS print with Acetone vapour but its not working. The ABS just softens and bleached white is some places. Any ideas? I'm using black Ultimaker original ABS filament.
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