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Found 316 results

  1. After getting sick and tired of warping ABS I finally chucked it out the window put it in the bottom drawer. So I built a little desiccant box, popped my Nylon spool in, and set out printing. It's very strong, with little to no warping on all but the largest parts. However one persistent and regular issue is that near one corner of the print (though not wholly confined to there) appears large stringing/burls. Edit: Some additional observations, it appears the plastic making up the burs drips out of the nozzle while the printer switches filaments and is printing supports. What can I do in Cura to change this? The pictures attached are of the aforementioned corner of the print where the problem is. Feel free to ignore the PVA (two different support settings were used, hence one print's support has a bulge and the other doesn't) and folded-back brim.
  2. alonmln

    Floating support

    Hi, I have sliced a model I have made, but when I look at the layer view, the infill is not consistent, and in the middle, some of it is actually floating. Shown in the attached image. I have made the model with Fusion 360, slicer settings at 0.1mm nozzle, 50% grid infill. How can I fix this? I want the infill to be 50% throughout the entire inner body. Thanks!
  3. After leveling my printbed the typical way using a sheet of computer paper, I sometimes fine-tune by starting to print the object itself while adjusting the thumbscrew levelers on the fly. This allows me to micro-adjust the thickness of the material for the object I'm actually trying to print, insuring good coverage for that critical first layer. I usually add a decent-sized brim for the object I'm printing during this phase, so I get several passes around the object's "outline" to adjust the thumbscrews (whether the final print needs a brim or not). Then I print the object with or without the brim as is optimal for whatever I'm printing. Another trick to reduce/eliminate pull-up is to do the same as above, but then stop the print once you have an outline of your print on the printbed. I then get a fine sharpie and trace the outline on the glass bed. Then, I remove the deposited outline of the print from the printbed. Then, I use ye' olde glue stick, applying where the sharpie outline is. (Sharpie and glue stick residue remove easily with rubbing alcohol, and I keep a chemistry H20 dispenser of same right by my printer so I can squirt some on my printbed to clean it off after the print is done...) If there's glue over the sharpie, the sharpie won't get on your print, and if it does, it removes easily with the alcohol... Happy printing!
  4. I was printing a somewhat complex and tall (1:5 aspect ratio) part (ABS) with several locations of overhang inside and outside the model, and as a result had to print supports (PVA). I set the minimum overhang angle to 15 degrees, but when I printed it, the model was encased in supports along sheer sides that don't require supports. To further illustrate what the slicer is doing, I have another example: I had to print some small parts and a large part, so I lumped them all together on the build plate for a neat overnight print. I had supports on for the benefit of the large part, the small parts have 0 locations of overhang. Yet the sides of the small parts were surrounded by support material (this time Breakaway). This is not only wasteful, but it also scars the sides of the part, why does the slicer construct these supports, and what settings could change this?
  5. I'm trying to smooth my ABS print with Acetone vapour but its not working. The ABS just softens and bleached white is some places. Any ideas? I'm using black Ultimaker original ABS filament.
  6. cdrose

    Empty Spool Weight

    Hi everyone, Figured I would make a thread of a list of empty spool weights that can be updated as we collect them, if you so desire. Post a picture as evidence and round up to the closest 5g 👍 ColorFabb Fillamentum MatterHackers RigidInk Ultimaker 750g Spool = 235g I did do a search and haven't found a thread like this so apolagise if I missed it. Thanks!
  7. SHORT: Problems using orientations and locations of the filaments spools other that the original*. LONG: We had a client with a feeder grinding filament on long prints (over 6hs) to the point of no extrusion after a while. After checking almost everything possible: drivers, hobbed bolt, bowden tube, PCBs of printhead and motherboard, printcore, etc, we detected a significant wear over the lever of the feeders (Image wear_1 & wear_2). Our hypothesys was that the filament had been feeded in the wrong orientation and it was later validated with the client (image wrong_orientation). The spools were mounted perpendicular to the original orientation of the spool holder. So far we swaped the levers (right to left and so) and the printer is working fine again but the proper solution would be to replace the damaged part and ensure that the Filament is feeded properly from now on.
  8. Stefania Dinea

    Ultimaker S5 build size

    Anyone know how to hack the settings to be able to print this size? Thanks.
  9. francoisl

    Problème de "Heater Error"

    Bonjour, J'ai depuis quelques temps un socis de "Heater Error" sur mon UM2. J'ai bien sur consulté la page https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19486-heater-error Côté buse j'ai l'impression que cela est bon la buse ne touche pas le support des ventilos. Du coup j'ai démonté la tête et je m'interroge sur l'état de la buse et de son support qui a une espèce de couche marron/noire Egalement la cartouche de chauffe et le capteur de chauffe dans cette photo ci-dessous. Le plus petit me semble un peu bruni. Je dois dire qu'ils étaient bien en place. Bref pensez-vous que mon soucis vienne de l'un de ces éléments ? Pouvez-vous m'expliquer a quoi est dû la couche marron sur la tête et son support? Merci par avance.
  10. Stefan456

    Teil inkl. Einstellungen speichern

    Hallo, ich habe im Forum leider nichts dazu gefunden. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit ein Teil mitsamt den Druckeinstellungen so abzuspeichern, dass auch Änderungen noch möglich sind? Ich drucke hier relativ viele Teile mit teils mehreren Versuchen bis das Ergebnis passt. Oftmals möchte ich ein paar Tage später das mit einer einzigen Änderung, ansonsten aber identisch drucken. z.B. wenn es bereits sehr gut funktioniert hat, aber ich ein anderes Stützmaterial oder eine andere Schichtdicke probieren möchte. Man kann es zwar als G-Code *.gz mit exakt mit allen Einstellungen speichern, aber dann auch keine Änderungen mehr vornehmen. "Projekt speichern" habe ich schon probiert, allerdings werden dann beim Laden der Datei z.B. die Schichtdicke nicht wieder übernommen, sondern es bleibt eingestellt wie es ist. Die einzige Möglichkeit die mir einfällt ist, die Dateil z.B. als STL und gleichzeitig das Profil zu speichern, aber mit zwei Dateien für jedes Bauteil zu hantieren ist doch etwas umständlich. Gibts hier eine geeignete Lösung? Viele Grüße, Stefan
  11. Xalara

    Printing with Polysmooth?

    I have an Ultimaker 3 and would like to print with PolySmooth. Has anyone else printed with this material, and if so, could you share your Cura settings?
  12. Hi everyone, I'e got a serious problem with my last print with PVA on my Ultimaker 3 : the material stopped extruding after 1hr, and while trying to unload the PVA filament I realized it was stuck in the feeder. Then I removed the bowden tube at both ends, removed the PVA filament from the printhead, and cut the filament under the feeder. But I still couldn't remove the filament, whatever side I pulled on : I guess that might be caused by a degradation of the filament by ambient humidity : the spool was left out in the open air for more than one month. But I still don't know how to remove the filament from the feeder. May be I could try moistening the filament in the feeder to soften it and remove it more easily ? Or will I have to disassemble the feeder completely ? Any ideas ? Thanks !
  13. Bonjour à tous, J'ai un gros problème concernant ma dernière impression avec du PVA sur l'ultimaker 3 : l'impression a cessé d'extruder après plus d'1 heure d'impression, et en voulant retirer le filament de PVA je me suis rendu compte qu'il était coincé dans le feeder. J'ai ensuite retiré le bowden tube des deux côtés, puis retiré le filament de la tête d'impression, et coupé le filament en dessous du feeder, mais malgré cela et en tirant dans les deux sens, impossible de faire bouger le filament : Je suspecte que ce phénomène pourrait être dû au fait que la bobine est restée à l'air libre pendant plus d'un mois, le matériau a pu être dégradé par l'humidité ambiante. Toujours est-il que je ne sais pas comment me sortir de là. Peut-être que je peux essayer d'humecter le filament dans le feeder pour le ramollir et l'extraire plus facilement ? Ou faut-il que je démonte entièrement le feeder ? Vous avez des idées ? Merci d'avance !
  14. I recently purchased a ruby-tipped nozzle from 3dSolex to help print chopped carbon fiber filament. So far the new extruder and nozzle have worked extremely well and have made some beautiful prints. Today though, I noticed it was under extruding on some smaller pieces I was printed, so I decided to do a printhead cleaning to clear out the blockage. The hot pull went fine, but the cold pull is where I ran into issues. Essentially when I went to pull the cold filament out, it did NOT want to come out. I've done cold pulls before with little to no trouble, but this time the filament was so stuck in the extruder that it was literally pulling the nozzle up when I yanked on it. I ended up getting a coworker to come help and instead of finally freeing the filament it instead snapped somewhere inside the extruder. I figured this wouldn't be a big deal just because you can reheat the nozzle and start pushing the filament out again. No such luck. I've tried setting up for another hot pull and also manually changing the temperature of the nozzle to 220C with no extrusion taking place. My fear now is that whatever was initially blocking the filament has moved to keep the broken piece from being able to exit the nozzle, leaving the small chunk of PLA stuck inside. That said, any advice on how to free the blockage from the inside of the nozzle? My best guess as of right now is increasing the temperature and maintaining a more constant pressure, but other than that I can't think of many other options. Edit: Fixed issue Ended up having to disassemble the printcore to reach the set tube the filament was stuck in and then heated it up with a heat gun. Ideally there is an easier solution out there, but for the time being it seems to be flowing again.
  15. Hello, i'd like to upgrade this t Umo+ single extruder to dual by adding parts , not changing the main extruder head itself .so any designs and information for this ?
  16. I've got a question about the S5 I can't find any info about. I think this is the "screensaver", but the "!" icon keeps showing up on one of my S5s. What does it mean? The other one hasn't done it yet. TIA!
  17. I have an issue with the built plate that I just can't solve. On my Ultimaker 2+ when starting a print the built plate goes up but does not stop until it forces itself against the print head. I have tried updating firmware and factory reset but nothing has changed. Nothing has been modded or changed on the printer. Can anyone lend a word of advice with their untold wisdom?
  18. Un très bon article de @SteveCox3D
  19. Hi Guys, Hopefully I'm just overlooking something but I do not see the option to scale a model in cura 3.3.1. On the left the only options are open, move, rotate, per model settings, and support blocker. I do not see the scale tool. Is there any way I may have accidentally turned scale off?
  20. Bonjour à tous, Nouveau dans le monde de l'impression 3D avec une AnyCubic i3 MEGA, j'ai installé CURA 3.3.1 sur mon PC Windows 10. Et là à chaque fois que je veux sauvegarder j'ai un message comme quoi cura.exe a cessé de fonctionner et plantage. J'ai essayé avec toutes les version 3.X.X même chose (nettoyage complet entre 2 installation), j'ai aussi essayé avec des profils d'autres imprimantes.. idem ... 😞 Si quelqu'un avait eu le même problème et avait trouvé une solution je suis preneur 🙂 Merci
  21. Hi all. I'm trying to determine what is a realistic expectation regarding the smoothness of a flat top surface. I've been fiddling with a lot of settings chasing a finish that doesn't have perceptible printing lines. Perhaps what I currently have is as good as it can get, and I need to move on to evaluating finishing options? Would appreciate any insight from those more experienced than me. Below is an image of my best outcome thus far. It feels pretty smooth to the touch, but lines are visible on the finish in decent lighting. This is using PLA. Will the results be noticeably different with another material such as ABS? Thank you.
  22. Bonjour a tous Je voudrais vous soumettre un problème que j'ai eu cette nuit. J'ai la pièce qui c'est décoller du plateau. D’habitude dans se cas le filament continue a se dérouler se qui provoque un amas de fil sur le plateau. Ben la pas de chance pour moi la matière a carrément fait un amas dans la tête en elle même. Celle-ci a enrobé le print core et toucher légèrement le deuxième print core ..... Après démontage de la tête de la machine puis 3h30 de lute pour enlevé tout sa (merci a ma fille de m'avoir prêté son stylo graveur ) j'ai pu récupéré une tête d'impression fonctionnel. Après une petit heure supplémentaire j'ai pu également récupéré mais deux print core aa et bb ouffffff Franchement je pensais que j'était mal barré et je me suis dit on va essayé de toute façon il a plus grand chose a perde ... Tout sa pour dire si il pouvait mettre une détection d'ouverture de capot sa serai peu être pas mal. Merci de m'avoir lu J'attend vos réaction voir si quelqu'un d'autre a déjà eu se problème aussi Pour info la matière est de l'abs et le temps d'impression que de 2h heureusement d’ailleurs, car la machine c'est arrêter a la fin de l'impression Cordialement sylvain
  23. Hi, I found a little problem with Cura 3.2.1. When I want to spiral objects, there are always ugly spots (for example small ledges and edges). These are already created when slicing (see pictures). It does not matter how I set the slicing tolerance. The stl also looks clean (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:124175). Is there a way to avoid that, or is it a bug? best regards Frank
  24. Guys, this is awesome. To be sure I read everything about build plate adhesion, temperatures, enclosures, warping etc. just to find a nearly flawless print with default cura settings (except 100% infill, 3mm wall). I used the Advanced Kit with its enclosure and adhesion sheets. A cardboard case on top kept the heat. That's all. Wonderful. Thank you, Team Ultimaker! (The PP is a bit harder than TPU. Hard to rip apart. The brim is crumpled after removing it. And you will get a nice matte surface from the Adhesion Sheet. (No bed leveling after putting it on.) ) dxp
  25. electromu

    decoupe d'un fichier STL

    Salut à tous! J'aimerai me réimprimer une nouvelle fusée Tintin pour mettre dans mon salon. Comme celle que j'ai à mon bureau et qui mesure 41cm Cette version issue de thingiverse est en plusieurs morceaux. La base en rouge est en 1 seule pièce. J'essaie depuis un moment de découper la base en rouge en plusieurs éléments (3 pods 3 ailerons et un moteur) pour pouvoir l'imprimer encore plus grande. (90cm) Et autant sur des fichiers avec des formes carrées je n'ai pas de soucis autant avec des arrondi de partout je n'y arrive pas. J'ai essayé Meshmixer avec des heures de tutos rien à faire... Est ce que quelqu'un ici saurait faire cela moyennant rétribution ? merci !

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