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Made some consoles to hold UM3 power adaptor (might fit other models too) and extra power sockets on my printer cabinet to keep it tidy.

This is the first 3D model I ever printed and I was and am very proud of it. A few months ago, I started working in a university library makerspace. I had never worked with or used 3D printers before, so I felt a little in over my head. In the week before I began, I brushed up on research about what makes a good 3D model, how to sculpt objects, etc. I ended up downloading a sculpting app called Forger on my iPad and spent about six hours one afternoon shaping a sphere into the shape of this fox head over many iterations. After a while, I got the hang of it and it felt conceptually just like molding clay in "the real world." On my second day of training when my supervisor showed me how to use Cura, I sliced and printed the .obj out of PLA on one of our UM3's. It took just about 4 hours at a 1.0mm layer height, if I remember correctly. It is still one of my proudest creations out of all of the things I've made here with the 3D printers, laser cutters, vinyl cutter/plotters, etc. In a small way, I think that experienced ruined TinkerCad for me, since I had already poured so much effort into learning sculpting softwares first. I love showing TinkerCad to students who are just starting out, but I often get frustrated with its limitations. I'd love to graduate to Blender eventually, but there's so much going on and it's a bit overwhelming to me still. Right now on the computer, I stick to using Meshmixer, which is somewhere in the middle, like a more robust version of what I was using on the iPad. If anyone is interested in sculpting their own organic models, I highly recommend checking it out.

This is a bin to fit in the door pockets of a MK1 Nissan Qashqai (2007-2013) The bin is primarily designed for the front door, to fit where a drink bottle is intended to go. It will also fit the back door. The Qashqai has nowhere to put sweet papers and other small pieces of litter, hence this bin. I printed this in black PLA on my UMO with a layer thickness of 0.25.

A filament guide which can adapt itself to different diameters and widths of the spool. Improvements to the first version: - The version 2 (the white parts on the pictures) can now catch and release the filament without pulling it back. - Thanks to a snap connection between the holder and the sphere no glue is required anymore.

48 Hour Print 0.1 MM LH

Headphonestand

- absorbs the vector-forces => longer life for and lower noise from the printer - level the printer

they show your guests where the toilet is...

i placed the 2nd fan where it should be... fans now run on 80%

A filament guide which can adapt itself to different diameters and widths of the spool.

Création d un support moteur 12v réducteur 30RPM pour robot tondeuse réf moteur : ZGA37RG dc 12 V motoréducteur 30rpm

Création d une roue en ABS pour un robot tondeuse Diamètre 18 Cm Hauteur 2 cm axe moteur 6mm buse 0.4mm / couche 0.2mm / 6 heures

elegant swinging smartphone stand The idea was a smartphone stand, where you have the ability to connect your standard charging cable... ... and then inspiration began to flow...

German: Hier zeige ich eine Möglichkeit die Enden von fast leeren Filamentspulen miteinander zu verbinden. Für weitere Details siehe Video. English: Here I show you a way to connect the ends of almost empty filament spools. For more details watch the video. Pinshape: https://pinshape.com/items/42163-3d-printed-filament-verbinden-filament-splicing-tutorial Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-verbinden-filament-splicing Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2762715 Video: https://youtu.be/xalpQIuSumg