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Found 11 results

  1. I am having issues with my UM3 where the final layers of a model are being flattened, distorting the final print. The print looks really good up the first few layers, and then the outer wall layers have large flattened circles, presumably from the extruder. I've manually leveled it multiple times, but it still seems to do this. The finer the layer height I use, the worse the effect seems to be. Here's an image of a recent print, PLA + PVA for support with 0.04mm layer height. * Combing is on all * Retraction is enabled: enabled at at layer change, before outer wall * Avoid printed parts and supports while traveling is enabled * Z hop while retracted is enabled, only over printed parts Any advice on how to prevent this?
  2. Hi, today I had to deal with hole diameters again. This time the part has holes perpendicular to each other. So one kind of holes has to printed horizontal and one vertical (or both diagonal, haven't tried that). The outcome is interesting and disappointing. To compensate for shrinked holes i added 0.4mm to the desired hole size. That works for the vertical printed holes but screw up the horizontal printed (they are printed in size). Another thing is the bridging at the small holes down. Doesn't come out well. And there is this funny ghosting at the horizontal printed holes. Model: MagnetMount.stl dimensions in model: big holes=6.4mm, small holes=4.4mm dimensions in print: vertical | horizontal big hole 6.0 | 6.4 smal hole 4.2 | 4.4 Setup: Ultimaker S5 CURA 4.4.1 Ultimaker Tough PLA blackMagnetMount.stl Default Settings "Engineering 0.1" Infill 10% no Supports no Adhesion Would another material help? What can I do to compensate for hole shrinking just in vertical printing direction (apart from adding the extra 0.4mm to just one kind of holes in the stl)? Thanks in advance David
  3. My company purchased an Ultimaker S5 for a job and we have been printing parts consistently for a few months now with the same print profile. All of a sudden, prints are beginning to be super inconsistent and most commonly coming out like the picture below. It is very important to resolve this issue as soon as possible as the deadline for the project closes in and we are falling behind on print time. I have tried doing (tons) of hot and cold pulls on the print cores. I have also switched the print cores out with replacements and run into the same issue. We currently have a new set of print cores on order and I am hoping this will resolve the issue, but in the meantime, what are your guys thoughts on what causes issues like this? Using Tough PLA with AA 0.4 and PVA with BB 0.4. Infill on 20%, printing at 215*C, print speed is 100mm/s, layer height of 0.25 mm.
  4. Hi there, Last week, I started working with a UMS5, after some former experience with a UMO/UM2E. The first models, I did in TPLA, supported by PVA. After dissolving the support, I sometimes have a very unconsistent and warped layer. The bottom of my model that faced the build plate (rounded corner in the left is warped as well) looks quite terrible: Unfortunately, I don't have the gcode files saved. The settings in Cura are like this (translation below): Translation: Generate support / Support extruder / Support interface extruder / Support roof extruder / Support floor extruder / Placement support: everywhere Setup: UMS5 with glass build plate with glue, TPLA/PVA, air manager. I've been looking into this problem, but I cannot find a solution. Anyone any ideas? T_D
  5. Hello. I would like some help troubleshooting some printing issues I have recently been having. My hospital got a 3D printer several months ago and we have been successful with our prints and making complex models with tough PLA and PVA support (I also attached a previous successful model printed with same settings). Recently, my models are not adhering to the print bed to itself. I have tried with PLA supports and PVA supports. I have unloaded and reloaded the filaments as well. I also reset the print settings to default. I have tried all different recommended settings with no help. My printer continues to print strings that are not adhering to anything. Sometimes it starts to adhere to bed and then fails or will not adhere to plate at all. The only causes I can think of are the following: Filament hydration? I am in New Mexico, an arid climate but do not store the filaments in a desiccator. Perhaps this is the issue? Settings not correct? Print speed too fast? We recently tried ninjaflex 3.0 mm and did not have any success with this. We attributed this to the size of 3.0mm. Print head clogged? The print heads seem to be extruding fine... Should I be doing regular cleaning?
  6. Ultimaker S5, Cura 3.6.0 latest edition, Black Tough PLA Large print requires swapping out spools/material. 1. Can I add "program stop" to code? If so, where can I locate the code that needs editing? 2. Does the printer just stop for spool change and then pick up exactly where it left off? 3. Is there a way to use both heads with same material? When one runs out, switch to other? 4. Currently using genuine Ultimaker Material, Black Tough P, 2.85mm dia., 750 g. Part requires over 900 g material. 5. Are there other products that have more material per spool?Different brands? Any help/advice would be appreciated.. Thank you, JohnnyOregon
  7. Hello everyone. I recently bought an Ultimaker 3 and started making inspection kits for work. I am printing in Tough PLA with the default Cura profile. I am getting ripples (left side of block) on the bottom of the print where it meets the glass. I see it along the X axis surface but not on the Y axis surface. I get the same ripples when skewing the part 5 degrees from parallel with the X axis. Machine firmware is current and Cura is updated to the latest version. I checked my short belts and they are tight, long belts maybe could be tighter but they are the same in X as they are in Y. Has anyone experienced this type of artifact?
  8. Hello all. I have some parts that will be submerged in seawater for 24hrs. Does anyone think Tough PLA would be inappropriate for this? Does it absorb much water/dissolve/change properties? Thanks in advance!
  9. I'm looking for a good structural adhesive/glue that will bond wood to Tough PLA. There are many epoxies and methacrylates out there, many work with ABS but are untested or not recommended for PLA. I'm not sure if Tough PLA is easier or harder to bond with? Ideally: Transparent or untinted translucent <15 minute work time Works with dispenser (i.e cartridge in a gun) Candidates so far: JB Weld - clear, 5 minute work time (doesn't come in cartridges?) - $6 for 25ml -- easy to find but doesn't work in dispensers PC-Clear Epoxy - clear, 5 minute work time (1:1 ratio) - $10 for 50ml -- not supported for PLA, but...? Plexus MA685 - translucent clear, 8 minute work time - $18 for 35ml -- expensive, $28 with shipping! Would love any recommendations. Thanks!
  10. kmanstudios

    Grey TPLA?

    I was wondering if you guys (UM) were ever going to come out with a grey TPLA. My clients are requesting it over the white.
  11. Let me tell you 'bout my best friend He's my one boy cuddly toy, My up 'n down, my pride an joy Whether we're printing lots of stuff Or just having lots of fun...... Apologies to Harry Nilsson Ok,. this project actually started years ago. I first made this as a thing to show people doing what is called 'Match Moving'. It is just where you take a piece of camera footage and then mix in some 3D. Did it to show my students in the way back machine. You can view it here. Open the door, get on the floor Everybody walk the dinosaur...... Then, the school I taught at was just getting into 3D printing. I mean way back when the makerbot first came out. So, that gives you an idea of how long ago. Anyway, I decided to take the animation for the Allosaurus and 'freeze' a frame of it walking to make a mesh. Long story short, they were not up to the task to print it. And, I did not have a voxel sculpting program at the time and Mudbox was not good enough to really make it work. Flash forward a millenia later and here we are finally realizing the actual idea. This image shows the Allosaurus in the S5. I maxed out the build space by angling the tail to the bottom, left, back corner and the head to the top, upper, right corner. This gave a final tail to snout length of 19.5 inches (495.3 mm). It took 6 days to print. You can see that I built a scaffold of TPLA to use so that I did not eat up too much PVA. The Dino is in UM White TPLA and I love that stuff. It printed like a dream. And, nowhere near as fragile as regular PLA. The Juvenile Brachiosaurus goes with this as well as it is part of a larger, 1 meter diorama of Jurassic Drama ? The scaffold did not have to look pretty and made it only one wall thick and very little infill. At this size, trying to use not too much of the materials at hand becomes a must. This is the full length shot once I got the PVA and scaffold off it. Sadly, the Dino is a newborn and piddled a little bit when shooting pics......He got excited too ? This was the only place to see any sort of layer lines in this print. The teeth are not much bigger than the letters on a USD Quarter......Mmmmmmm,. George Washington makes good eats ? Nom nom nom..... Looka dat eye folk!! Zowie kapowie!! No layer lines anywhere else on this one though. I am so thrilled that I do not have to worry about this and can just go straight to painting on this beastie.... ? Just a few super tiny strings here and there that I can hit with a heat gun and they will all be gone. Most of that is just very sparse. I was impressed that the S5 could hold the detail on such a large object. Now to just get the rest of the Diorama put together. I have juvenile Stegosaurii , cicads and Siderops and all sorts of other goodies to go in this thing. And, the TPLA is really, really nice to print with. Just basic settings at 0.1mm ;ayer height with things changed like supports and stuff. All real print settings did not get changed. But for now, I was just so happy to get this done ?
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