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Found 11 results

  1. I am having issues with my UM3 where the final layers of a model are being flattened, distorting the final print. The print looks really good up the first few layers, and then the outer wall layers have large flattened circles, presumably from the extruder. I've manually leveled it multiple times, but it still seems to do this. The finer the layer height I use, the worse the effect seems to be. Here's an image of a recent print, PLA + PVA for support with 0.04mm layer height. * Combing is on all * Retraction is enabled: enabled at at layer change, before outer wall *
  2. Hi, today I had to deal with hole diameters again. This time the part has holes perpendicular to each other. So one kind of holes has to printed horizontal and one vertical (or both diagonal, haven't tried that). The outcome is interesting and disappointing. To compensate for shrinked holes i added 0.4mm to the desired hole size. That works for the vertical printed holes but screw up the horizontal printed (they are printed in size). Another thing is the bridging at the small holes down. Doesn't come out well. And there is this funny ghosting at the horizontal
  3. My company purchased an Ultimaker S5 for a job and we have been printing parts consistently for a few months now with the same print profile. All of a sudden, prints are beginning to be super inconsistent and most commonly coming out like the picture below. It is very important to resolve this issue as soon as possible as the deadline for the project closes in and we are falling behind on print time. I have tried doing (tons) of hot and cold pulls on the print cores. I have also switched the print cores out with replacements and run into the same issue. We currently have a new set
  4. Hi there, Last week, I started working with a UMS5, after some former experience with a UMO/UM2E. The first models, I did in TPLA, supported by PVA. After dissolving the support, I sometimes have a very unconsistent and warped layer. The bottom of my model that faced the build plate (rounded corner in the left is warped as well) looks quite terrible: Unfortunately, I don't have the gcode files saved. The settings in Cura are like this (translation below): Translation: Generate support / Support extruder / Support interface extruder / Support r
  5. Hello. I would like some help troubleshooting some printing issues I have recently been having. My hospital got a 3D printer several months ago and we have been successful with our prints and making complex models with tough PLA and PVA support (I also attached a previous successful model printed with same settings). Recently, my models are not adhering to the print bed to itself. I have tried with PLA supports and PVA supports. I have unloaded and reloaded the filaments as well. I also reset the print settings to default. I have tried all different recommended settings with no he
  6. Ultimaker S5, Cura 3.6.0 latest edition, Black Tough PLA Large print requires swapping out spools/material. 1. Can I add "program stop" to code? If so, where can I locate the code that needs editing? 2. Does the printer just stop for spool change and then pick up exactly where it left off? 3. Is there a way to use both heads with same material? When one runs out, switch to other? 4. Currently using genuine Ultimaker Material, Black Tough P, 2.85mm dia., 750 g. Part requires over 900 g material. 5. Are there other products that have more material per spool?Differe
  7. Hello everyone. I recently bought an Ultimaker 3 and started making inspection kits for work. I am printing in Tough PLA with the default Cura profile. I am getting ripples (left side of block) on the bottom of the print where it meets the glass. I see it along the X axis surface but not on the Y axis surface. I get the same ripples when skewing the part 5 degrees from parallel with the X axis. Machine firmware is current and Cura is updated to the latest version. I checked my short belts and they are tight, long belts maybe could be tighter but they are the same in X as they are
  8. Hello all. I have some parts that will be submerged in seawater for 24hrs. Does anyone think Tough PLA would be inappropriate for this? Does it absorb much water/dissolve/change properties? Thanks in advance!
  9. I'm looking for a good structural adhesive/glue that will bond wood to Tough PLA. There are many epoxies and methacrylates out there, many work with ABS but are untested or not recommended for PLA. I'm not sure if Tough PLA is easier or harder to bond with? Ideally: Transparent or untinted translucent <15 minute work time Works with dispenser (i.e cartridge in a gun) Candidates so far: JB Weld - clear, 5 minute work time (doesn't come in cartridges?) - $6 for 25ml -- easy to find but doesn't work in dispensers PC-Clear Epoxy - clear, 5 mi
  10. I was wondering if you guys (UM) were ever going to come out with a grey TPLA. My clients are requesting it over the white.
  11. Let me tell you 'bout my best friend He's my one boy cuddly toy, My up 'n down, my pride an joy Whether we're printing lots of stuff Or just having lots of fun...... Apologies to Harry Nilsson Ok,. this project actually started years ago. I first made this as a thing to show people doing what is called 'Match Moving'. It is just where you take a piece of camera footage and then mix in some 3D. Did it to show my students in the way back machine. You can view it here. Open the door, get on the floor Everybody walk the dinosaur..
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