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  1. Hi, I am currently experimentally trying to find optimal settings to print TPU with PVA for the model shown below. What my main problem is that whenever I remove the PVA from the structure after it is done printing, the TPU has very poor quality (i.e rough and uneven surface). I tried increasing the distance between the support and the main material with marginal improvement. I would be glad for any advice on how to fix this issue. Thanks
  2. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty. **** I used two materials for testing, Extrudr TPU Soft and Ninjaflex, both 85A. I used the regular feeder from the UM2+ , combined with a pancake stepper motor (LDO-42STH25-1404MAC#190920) this stepper is less than half the weight of the normal stepper. I had to cut some length of the shaft to make it fit. The stepper has a different # steps per rotation and as it's impossible to change the steps setting for the S5 on one feeder it needs compensation in flow (200% flow = 100%) Obviously the result is a crazy top heavy setup, but if you just want to print an occasional gasket it should be fine, specially since you need to print materials this flexible very slow (15 mm/s) anyhow. On an Ultimaker2 the extra weight is enormous, on the S5 not so much as it's very heavy already anyhow. The nice thing is you can see into the feeder so during testing it's easy to spot when the feeder can't cope if you try to speed it up to much. If something goes wrong it's mainly during the first few layers, so watch them... otherwise you'll spend a few minutes again taking the feeder apart... To validate the basic setup I printed regular PLA on both converted machines, to make sure the setup (including changed steps/flow due to different motor) was correct. On the UM2 head the ninjaflex was pretty easy to get working, i managed to print with constant and reliable extrusion using a 0.4 nozzle. The materials prints best around (I tested with 0.15 layers) Flow : 110-115 % (with feeder tension set to lowest point) Temperature : 210 c Speed : 15 to 20 mm/s The easiest way to test temperature and flow is by printing simple cilinders, foir the S5 you can use the "tune" menu to play with values on the fly. Getting ninjaflex to work on the S5 proved to be more difficult than on the UM2, at the same settings using an 0.4 mm nozzle prints failed all the time, it seems the CORE, is much more of a challenge that a UM2 setup. I blame the longer filament path, and the metal tube of the core. Only when I changed to the 0.8 nozzle and the CC0.6 I was able to get reliable results. My main S5 tests are with the CC0.6, atm my best results are with the following settings; The S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates. Layer height 0,15 Initial layer height 0,25 Top/bottom pattern & Innitial layer pattern ; concentric (avoid lot's of small lines, head vibration) Innitial printing temperature/ innitial layer : 230c Printing teperature : 215c Skirt/Brim flow 140% (= realy 70%, due to the different stepper motor) Innitial layer flow 150% (= realy 75%, due to the different stepper motor) Flow 225% (= 2x the real flow, due to the different stepper motor) Print speed 15 mm/s Innitial layer speed, Skirt/Brim speed 10mm/s Cooling at 100%, start with 20% and let it rise over 10 layers) Turn off the flow sensor (in the settings menu) on the S5, as you're not using that feeder.. Conclusion, even if you eliminate the bowden, printing 85A flex on an Ultimaker S5 is still a bit of a challenge. The used feeder (UM2+UM3 model) and filament path are not ideal. But, usually if you make it past the first few layers, and have relatively simple prints that keep the flow going it's very well possible to print ninjaflex on the S5. I have not experimented a lot with it jet, but I also managed a simple test print using PLA for support on the 2th extruder. the hardware hack; The feeder plate mounts to 3 screws of the head, so you can leave one and the head will stay assembled during mounting. I made a little breakout plug for the left stepper motor on the back of the printer, so I can change between direct and bowden in just a few minutes. I just leave the black mounting plate on the head. In needed to make a hole in the bottom plate for the DIY extension cable. I isolated the plug with hot glue. some side notes; Cura can sometimes create fantastic vibrator g-codes, not nice with this heavy setup, so one thing you can do to prevent this is to change line fill to cylindrical fill, and check the layer preview. ninjaflex openRC wheel, printed on S5 extrudr TPU soft (85A just like ninjaflex) gasket, printed on S5 S5 stl's S5_FlexDirect.zip
  3. ...and I like it 🙂 Edges and connection profiles are PETG, anti slip triangles are TPU95. The rest is a balsa core and some carbon. Pressplate (honeycomb) printed in ABS.
  4. Bonjour tout le monde, Je souhaiterai être sûr de ce que j'ai lu: On dit que la température de transition vitreuse est le fait de passer d'un état caoutchouteux à un état solide. On dit que la température de fusion est le fait de passer à un état solide à un état liquide. Donc, si je regarde la fiche du Nylon Ultimaker, il est dit que la transition vitreuse est de 50° et que la fusion est de 185-195. Concrètement, cela veut-il dire que la matière se durcit à partir de 50°C et qu'elle commence à se déformer si exposée à minimum 185°C ? Ais-je bien interprété ce qu'il est dit ?
  5. Bonjour à tous, Sur mon UM3 je tente d'imprimer avec du FlexiFil de chez FormFutura. La pièce est un tube de 25mm x 100mm imprimé verticalement. Buse à 145°, bed à 95°, vitesse 30mm/s, pas de rétraction, ventilation 40% et bordure de 15mm. Le résultat est très propre sauf que l'objet ne colle pas sur le plateau, donc ça commence bien mais ça fini mal. Je pense qu'à un moment la ventilation suffit à faire bouger la pièce. J'ai testé avec la vitre propre et avec du Dimafix mais la pièce se décolle... Avez vous une astuce pour améliorer l'adhésion du TPE / CPE ? Merci.
  6. I've read some of the threads here on 3D pens. In my region, it seems everything offered is more toy than tool, so my hope is that within this group someone can help get me sorted. I've seen plenty of options that handle PLA, or PLA and ABS. Most of these also have reviews that include things like 'broke on the third try'. I don't know if any options handle semi-rigid options like TPU, perhaps that is a function of the 1.75mm filaments used (I find 2.85 plenty robust in the Cheetah line). My application is a custom retaining ring for a clear acrylic face 'crystal' within a 3d printed bezel that has an undercut groove to hold the crystal and then a ring. It would be so easy just to lay in a ring of hot filament. Printing it in advance and trying to wedge it in there is not working too well, the gap is so small that a printed wall thickness that fits is too weak to take off the bed or push into the gap without deformation or tearing. Thanks for your thoughts! John
  7. Hi, I've been printing for a while now using two Ultimaker S5. The only problem I encountered so far is that when I am printing with TPU, the printer repeatedly stops the print and prompts the message 'one or more materials seems to be empty'. I'm printing with regular Cura settings and does not have altered the tension on the feeder gear. What can I do to prevent this error message? Lowering the print speed or feed rate? It is a real bummer to come back after a weekend and only see some layers being printed and this message on display. Regards, Michiel
  8. Bonjour J'ai récemment acquis une S3 d'occasion très peu servi. Aujourd hui j'ai voulu imprimer du PLA Soft de chez orbitech, un matériau souple proche du TPU. Malheureusement, ça n'a pas fonctionner longtemps. L'imprimante s'arrête en me disant qu'il n y a pas de filament. Y a t il quelque chose a faire de spécifique pour imprimer ce type de matériau au niveau du feeder?
  9. I'm struggling to get a consistent finish on my TPU prints. It starts and ends well, but if there is a break in the wall of the print, the finish is rough and not translucent. I've tried messing with z hop, reducing and increasing retraction speed and distance and raising and lowering temperature and none seem to help. Does anyone have any ideas? Attached are a couple pictures showing what I'm talking about. And my latest Cura settings. S5 Pro Sainsmart TPU
  10. Dear All, I hope that you can help me to solve my printing problem. I want to print multiple slider in one "go" and in the past this worked with an acceptable result. Now, the print gradually gets more and more holes. How can this be happen? Do you have an idea? I am using: Ultimaker 3 extended Ultimaker TPU95, white Cura 4.7.1 (although the file might be one version earlier) The Cura file as well as a photo are both attached. I performed already multiple prints prior, using or not using the "support" function/ same material as well as supportive PVA. But actually, I do not think supportive material is needed. Please let me know, which information is missing. Thank you very much in advance! UM3E_Slider 02.3mf
  11. Hi, ich drucke mit einem Ultimaker 3 Extended und mache seit kurzem ein paar Testdrucke mit einem TPU85A Filament. Es lässt sich gut drucken nur kommt irgendwann kein (oder sehr wenig) Filament mehr aus der Düse (siehe Bild im mittleren Bereich), sodass eine offene Struktur entsteht. Ich habe den Druck dann gestoppt und beim Extruder hinten den Druck erhöht. Dieses hat zunächst für diesen Druck geholfen (siehe Bild im oberen Bereich). Beim nächsten Druck ist das Problem wieder aufgetreten. Ich hoffe ihr habt eine Idee, was ich noch ändern könnte, damit dieses nicht mehr auftritt. Grüße
  12. Hi, Is there a means to change filament type mid-way through a print? I want to print one part in PLA, and another in TPU. These require different temperature settings, it isn't as simple as inserting a new reel. The second print head of the Ultimaker 3E is occupied with PVA support filament. Thanks!
  13. I'm printing with TPU95 on a UM3 using the default settings in Cura. The material oozes from the print head faster than it's being fed. The part has some small upward facing features and the oozing causes material to pile up in blobs when small the features are printed. Has anyone else had this problem? Would lowering the print head temperature help? By how much?
  14. Hi, I tried for the first time today to print TPU, but i got an issue. The filament extrusion isn't constant. It print sometimes just few drops then continue normally, and then some other drops, etc. Most of the time, it just print tiny drops instead of a continuous line. My filament is new, I opened it this morning and it was sealed. I already print ABS, PETG and ABS, and everything was fine. I changed my nozzle and changed several time my temperature (from 200°C to 250°C by increment of 10°C), but doesn't solve my issue. I also print at 20mm/s and i use Cura I use an Anycubic i3 mega. Heres the link for my filament: https://www.amazon.ca/-/fr/SainSmart-Filament-flexible-pour-imprimante/dp/B00TI3JUTM/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_fr_CA=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=SainSmart+TPU&qid=1578253531&s=hi&sr=8-1 Mod I installed: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2672773 Any help is appreciate thank you!
  15. Hi, I am trying to print a double ring as per the attached photo with TPU95 white. However, I have tried several support options from CURA with no success. Any advice?
  16. Hi, I am curious on if there are any non stick surface materials that I can apply to my structure. Basically, I want the structure to "pop-up" to resemble something like this: The issue is that I want to print this structure in one step, so I was looking into ways that I can 3D print this without support materials. A solution I was thinking was to separate the structure into two layers as shown below: After printing L1, I wanted to know if it was possible to apply some sort of material that would allow me to print L2 on top of it and give me the "pop-up structure." If not, are there any other methods I can pursue? For reference, I am using TPU on an Ultimaker S5. Thanks
  17. My goal was to print a part in nylon with a TPU overmolding. It seems like there's no way to set this up in Cura. When I open a STL file that has two bodies, they are not recognized as such and there's no way to assign an extruder to a body independently of the other. If I open two STL files, their position in space relative to one another is not respected. I can move one body to try to get it near where I want (after I discovered the option to disable "Automatically drop models to the build plate") but it's not precise, especially with Cura's display and perspective view.
  18. Hi Everyone, I tried using ninjaflex cheetah and filaflex 80 filament with the US5 for the past week. I am having trouble with it. I set the heat from 210-230 degrees; the filament extrudes when it’s not printing and prints when it’s switching to the core BB. I need some help. I worked with U2E+ with the same TPU with the TPU95 settings, it works! I have no idea why I having this problem with the US5? Any help to solve this problem will be great!
  19. Hi everybody, I'm trying to print a piece with TPU but when I try to slice it CURA don't show me how it has worked. In the first picture can be show the piece without any slice, and in the second one the layer view can be seen with shadows. If anyone can help me I would be so proud.
  20. Hi,everyone...I used TPU filament to print out the product but the surface is very poor. The temperature set as standard which is 250 degree..Any methods can smooth the surface of product? Please help me solve the problem and give suggestion... The picture below show my product. Thanks
  21. I've recently started printing a set of stoppers out of Ultimaker's TPU95 material. This material is great and extremely shock absorbent, but it tends to string more than other filaments due to its flexibility. This becomes a slight issue when printing two of these stoppers in the same build tray, since when it goes from one tower to another it will string and leave a small blob of material on the surface of the part. In other materials these blots can be easily taken off, but with TPU it becomes harder since the material tends to elastically stick together. Has anyone found any particularly good retraction settings to reduce stringing in TPU? Here's a picture to illustrate the blotting I'm talking about, seen on the front surface of the square tower:
  22. For some filaments (PVA & nylon in particular) one of the best ways to dehydrate the filaments if they become too humid is by putting them in the oven at 170 degrees F for approx. 6 hrs. But is this safe? I put the nylon filament in the same oven that I cook pizza in, so is my pizza in any way contaminated with nylon? Thx for the feedback, Baird Bankovic
  23. I would like to print a part in TPU95A on my UM2E+ but the part need to have support because of flat surface so i was wondering if the support can be in TPU95A?
  24. Hey everyone. I tried to start printing some TPU 95A today and I had issues with stringing and the interlayer adhesion. The piece I made has already cracked in 3 different places. I am using the advanced printing kit cover with a polybox to keep the filament from getting too much moisture. The RH is about 56% because I live in New Orleans. Please see some photos below.
  25. Hi everybody I would like to know if there is any support material for TPU. I have tried with PVA but the results were unsuccesful. Thank you for your help.
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