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3D printer

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  1. I work for a mid-sized museum and we were donated a brand new SainSmart Infi-20 3D printer. I understand that belt printers are not ideal for beginners, but alas, I am a beginner and this is what I was given. I also know very little about computers, so I do apologize if this is a simple thing. I appreciate any and all assistance. I am having a very difficult time getting Cura to save a sliced file to the SD card in its entirety. For example: I downloaded a prehistoric shark model from Thingiverse. The STL file is around 39mb. When I open it in Cura, Cura starts acting really weird; moving very slow, not responding when I click "prepare", and saying "unable to slice". When it does eventually save to my 4gb SD card, it will only save a fraction of the data. The print is supposed to take 3 hours, but the printer finishes in 20 minutes, having only printed the supports. I have gotten it to print the face of the shark, but that's about it. I downloaded a different file from Thingiverse, and printed it. It was a teeny, tiny, cartoon shark. It printed the tiny version, but when I upscaled it and tried to print again, it went through the same problems of only printing the supports and claiming to be finished. The SD card has some pre-installed gcodes on it that the system doesn't seem to have much problem printing. What do I need to do? My SD card is formatted to FAT32. My computer is a Dell running Windows 10 on a x64 system. The layer tests come out fine and the extruder does the initial blob before hand that always works out.
  2. Hi Leute, dieses Feature ist wirklich interessamt, man kann damit non planar drucken und es kostet nichts. Es braucht lediglich Slic3r und Linux als Hauptsystem und nicht als 2. System, kenne mich da leider nicht aus. Kann Jemand von euch das ausprobieren? das wäre cool. Ob Cura dieses Feature verfolgt? https://all3dp.com/2/non-planar-3d-printing-simply-explained/ Und hier ist ein non planar G-Code zum Ausprobieren. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3842477
  3. While printing with my Ender 3, I noticed that the print seemingly just stopped for no reason. I was printing direct from Cura via USB cable. When I went to check, I noticed that the layers seemed oddly thin. It seems my bed levelling was not up to snuff and tried to print with the nozzle being way too close to the print bed. Now I have this really thin layer of plastic or scratches on the surface of my bed (1st Picture). I'm inclined to believe it's plastic since there was a ball of it in the lower-right that seemed attached to the rest of the mark. I tried my go-to cleaning strategy of using some isopropyl alcohol on a medical-grade blue cloth (2nd Picture), but that didn't do much to it. I then tried searching my issue, but all I came across were tips on how to remove a completed print from a bed. Stuff like "Use Brute Force or "Run Cold Water Across The Back", that kind of stuff. Would any of you happen to know how to fix something like this? I don't want a failed print ruining the levelling for all of my future prints. Extra question, not nearly as important: How do actually keep my bed's level consistent? I've had a few issues of my bed's levelling now. but it's all been problems with my bed seemingly getting lower in between prints up until now. Thanks in advance for any advice!
  4. Hello everyone, I am using Cura 4.12.1 and having some trouble with one of my prints and I've spend almost 2 weeks on it but just can't figure out what went wrong. All the prints are done with 60mm/s, Inner/Outer wall at 30mm/s, same temperature(200 nozzle, 60 bed) The defects always happen on the same spot even with different printer(Anycubic Vyper and Creality Ender3 Pro) After tried lots of calibration/firmware/turning the defects just won't go away. So I tried a different slicer with their default settings, it seems the defects does not show up in PrusaSlicer or IdeaMaker(Although they have other problems since I haven't got much time to change their settings yet) I looked into the GCode preview where the defects happens, but can't find any problem with it, they looked like straight line in the preview. Since PrusaSlicer and IdeaMaker does not having this issue, I guess this might be some setting I used in Cura causing this, it will be greatful if anyone can help me find the right setting. Thank you. I've attached the STL model "hueca cisne.zip" if it helps the diagnosis, I enlarged the model by increased the model Z axis to 70mm when slicing hueca cisne.zip
  5. With the release of the Cura 5.0 beta, a lot has changed in the core of Cura. So much so, that in order to be compatible with Cura 5.0, all plugin need to be updated and resubmitted to the Marketplace. I maintain a number of plugins, and you can imagine that it takes a while for me to update the plugins but also for the Ultimaker dev team to review them. I will use this post to share with you a growing set of pre-release versions of my plugins so you can test them with Cura 5.0 beta. Edit: All plugins are now in the Marketplace, and the prereleases for these plugins below should no longer be used (but will remain available on github) OctoPrint Connection: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-OctoPrintPlugin/releases/tag/v3.7.0-DEV Mesh Tools: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-MeshTools/releases/tag/v3.7.0-DEV Sidebar GUI: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-SidebarGUIPlugin/releases/tag/v4.3.0-DEV Measure Tool: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-MeasureTool/releases/tag/v1.1.0-DEV Z Offset: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-ZOffsetPlugin/releases/tag/v3.7.0-DEV Linear Advance: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-LinearAdvanceSettingPlugin/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Edit 4/23: OctoPrint Connection: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-OctoPrintPlugin/releases/tag/v3.7.0-DEV (updated) Arc Welder: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-ArcWelderPlugin/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Start Optimiser: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-StartOptimiser/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Titlebar Info: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-VersionInTitlebarPlugin/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Automatic Slicing Toggle: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-PauseBackendPlugin/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Edit 4/25: Printjob Naming: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-CustomJobPrefix/releases/tag/v3.7.0-DEV Material Cost Tools: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-MaterialCostTools/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Setting Visibility Set Creator: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-SettingVisibilityProfileCreator/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Printer Settings: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-PrinterSettingsPlugin/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV Edit 5/6: Material Settings: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-MaterialSettingsPlugin/releases/tag/v3.6.0-DEV I will update this list with prereleases of other plugins, or when a new prerelease is necessary to fix a bug. To download these prerelease versions, go to the linked page and scroll down to the 'Assets' section. There you will see curapackages compatible with different versions of Cura. For Cura 5.0 you will need to download the file ending with `Cura5.0.curapackage`. After downloading that file, drop it onto the 3d viewport in Cura 5.0 as if you were opening a 3d model. You will then be prompted to restart Cura. You can drop multiple curapackages one after the other without restarting each time if you want to install multiple plugins. If you want to test these updated release in an older version of Cura, please download the curapackage labeled for that version. It is quite early days, and some of the plugins required extensive work to make them compatible with Cura 5.0. Feedback is welcome, either here or in the issue queue for the respective plugins.
  6. Found this article "Ender 3 Neo is not in list of printers in Cura 5.1.1 for macOS" and wondering if I can follow it to get my Ender up and running?
  7. Hi all, Just acquired a UM3 regular and looking to make some changes to it. I'm specifically interested in upgrading the drivers to TMC2208. I've only seen maybe 1-2 threads on this forum discussing that but without any guides. I'm somewhat experienced in EE and have no problem soldering QFNs or other small parts. However, there is only one shot at this, since if I connect something the wrong way, it will possibly fry the board. Has anyone here attempted to replace the allegro drivers with TMC2208? I've seen some aliexpress boards that offer TMC2208 drop in replacement for ultimakers, but I think that is for UM2 and I also don't trust aliexpress board designs. I know I can just get a newer duet or other board with TMC2208, but I'd like to preserve the Ultimaker LCD and camera functionality. I've found the schematic of UM3 here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/1548-I Ultimainboard/Schematics and layout pdf/Schematic Prints.PDF and here is a TMC2208 schematic for the driver: https://github.com/watterott/SilentStepStick/blob/master/hardware/SilentStepStick-TMC2208_v20.pdf My understanding is that both drivers' pins are fully compatible, just some resistors/caps might need modifications. Is this correct? How would you go about setting the power to the 2208 driver? And I also read that you need to pre-program the driver before soldering it to put it in legacy mode? Is this true? Any suggestions on how to go about this would be super helpful!
  8. This fix is for connecting an Ender-3 Neo to a Mac over USB using Cura 5.2.1. This might work for other Ender printers too. I did not have to install any custom drivers since MacOS comes with them preinstalled. Plug in the printer via USB and open Terminal.app, type in ls /dev (that will list the contents of the /dev folder, which is where all connected devices are listed). Look in the output list for tty.usbserial-10 or cu.usbserial-10. If they are there, then the printer is connected to the OS. Right click on the Ultimaker-Cura.app > Show Package Contents. Navigate to Contents > Resources > share > cura > plugins > USBPrinting and open USBPrinterOutputDeviceManager.py in your favorite text editor (I use Visual Studio Code since it is free). Edit line 86 and change it from port_list = self.getSerialPortList(only_list_usb=True) to port_list = self.getSerialPortList(only_list_usb=False) Save the file and close it. Now open Cura and go to the Monitor tab. You should see a bunch of new menu items that indicate that your printer is now connected. So, what did you change? You edited the only_list_usb parameter from True to False, allowing the serial port scanner to check for usb serial ports that are not listed with the name starting with USB (all caps). Ours start with tty and cu. Hope this helps someone! Happy printing.
  9. Hallo Zusammen, ich bin gerade etwas verwundert. Ich bin blutiger Anfänger im 3D-Druck. ich habe mir ein Teil in Freecad gezeichnet per STL exportiert und in Cura für den Drucker vorbereitet. Jetzt sehe ich, dass zwei Teile die eigentlich verbunden sein sollten, durch einen feinen Spalt getrennt sind. Ich kann das weder in Freecad noch in der STL-Datei nachvollziehen. Wenn ich mir aber das Slice Ergebnis in Cura genauer ansehe, sehe ich das Problem. nur verstehe ich es nicht. Kann jemand dieses Verhalten nachvollziehen? Habe ich einen Fehler gemach und kann das zukünftig vermeiden oder ist es ein Bug in Cura? Dateien sind im Anhang. Vielen Dank für eure Unterstützung und Liebe Grüße Stefenzo Cura.zip
  10. Hi All, I'm new to 3D printing and more specifically the Ultimaker S5 (w/ pro bundle) that I just got. When I first got the printer I wasn't able to get anything to print without errors (nozzle and build bed height errors). I have since learned how to manually adjust the bed height, check the noise level, check the sensors, etc. I now am able to print almost every time after I try printing out my desired item at least once. Unfortunately, it never prints on the first try, but usually prints out ok on the second try. As long as I turn off my WIFI printer and try to get rid of any electrical interference in my office. I also, noticed that my S5's WIFI network connection cuts out every night and I have to reboot the printer everyday in order for it to reconnect to my WIFI network. I read for some S5 users they got rid of all of their printing problems by disabling WIFI and just using a hard wired Ethernet connection. The problem is where my printer is I don't have access to an Ethernet jack and a hard wired connection. But, I was wondering if I could just get an "Ethernet to USB adapter" and plug my S5 into my laptop directly through USB? Has anyone here had success with printing through USB and if so, what brand/model adapter are they using? Thanks for any help that you can provide to me. Have a great day! Happy Holidays!
  11. Hello 3D Fanatics!! We are Thangs! It’s our first time here and we wanted to introduce ourselves. If you’re not familiar, Thangs is the world's largest and only 3D model database for: searching, analyzing, and comparing models. (We like to believe that’s pretty cool :)) Thangs has more than 14 million indexed models populated from Thangs and 60 other sites making it the largest 3D model database. We recently introduced new search filters to the home page and search page making it easier to find exactly what you need including “printable” and “file type” filters - (my personal new favorite addition for printing in my free time). We’ve also created a suite of creator tools called Thangs Sync, Workspace, and Workflow. All of these tools are 100% free and are made for our community. This suite provides 3D-native model backup, as well as revision control, and collaboration tools with Workflow. For those who love to create - we also host a Weekly Creator Contest (that will soon include remixes) that donates ~$1500 a week to the top 30 creators collectively. Whether you’re a 3D designer, creator or printer, we hope that Thangs can help you in your 3D adventure. If you’d like to share feedback with us, we’d love to hear from you.
  12. Hi guys, I'm fairly new to 3d printing. I printed a few premade models from the web with varying success, fiddled a little with printer settings, made my own smaller models/prints and decided to go for a more complex print. For that I made my own model in Blender, imported into Cura 5.1.0, applied my usual print settings, did a few tweaks and started the print. The first few layers looked good, although I was accepting a little warping on the far left end (x=75, y=220, z=0). I noticed that on earlier prints too, but I decided to keep going (big mistake?). However, on the next morning (after about 12hrs of printing) I encountered a print that has gone well for the most part, but then totally failed. I decided to stop the print at this point. Printer: Anycubic Mega X Filament: Basicfil PLA black Bed Temp: 60°C Printing Temp: 190°C (a little higher on the initial layers) This is my model in Cura: Thats the warping on the "far left corner": And those are the topmost layers of the print: Eventually, the left half of the print has detached from the print bed and shifted a little. At least that's what I decipher from this (and also the previous) area of the print: These are the questions going on in my head: Is it solely a problem of the print, or could/should I also do some improvements on the model? The lower parts of the walls (between the cutouts of the box) are rather thin and maybe too flimsy? Is it only a problem of bed adhesion? Could that alone lead to the weird printing issues? Maybe it's also a problem of a clogged nozzle or something? Is it a problem of air drafts during printing? The printer was operating in a rather small, closed and heated room without any people inside. So I guess the answer is rather "No"? I wouldn't like to just jump in and print it again with a few tweaks on my own, because the problems (besides the bed adhesion) only started to appear after ~8-10hrs printing time. I'm very grateful for any hints on improvements! I also attached my 3mf project file and can provide any further pictures or information that might be necessary. Thanks a ton, jam AI3MX_air_tower.3mf
  13. Moin Ich hab seit ein paar Jahren absolut problemlos das flexible material DSM Arnitel 2045 gedruckt. Anderes Flexibles Material hab ich nie wirklich zum Drucken bekommen. Als Grund hatte ich ausgemacht das das Filament mit einer Art Gleitschicht überzogen war und es so besser durch den Bowden tube flutschte. Rückstände dieser schicht konnte ich immer im Tub sehen wenn ich das Material gewechselt hatte. Jetzt musste ich feststellen das diese Gleitschicht bei zwei neuen Rollen wohl nicht mehr vorhanden ist. Das Filament fühlt sich jetzt stumpfer an und hinterlässt jetzt auch keine Rückstände im Tube. Jedenfalls kann ich es plötzlich nicht mehr drucken. da das Material im Feeder immer verkanntet. Jetzt hab ich mehrmals gelesen das einige bei Flexiblen Material etwas Öl auf das Filament oder in den Tube geben. Hat da jemand von euch Erfahrungen? wenn ja was nehmt ihr da? Einfach das Nähmaschinenöl was beim Ulimaker dabei war? Macht das Probleme? könnte mir vorstellen das das Öl dann auch auf das Glas kommt und die Haftung ruiniert
  14. I was printing this model when i encountered holes on my print (picture below). This also happened with vase-code models and single-wall prints. Anyone can identify the problem maybe?
  15. I adjusted the custom settings on the Cura software and can't tell if my Ender 3 S1 is adhering to them (primarily print speed). I want 20mm/s first layer, 60 mm/s infill, and 40 mm/s walls. When I slice it and move it over to my Ender, it just shows 100% speed the entire time. I'm not sure if that's 100% of the values I set in the program, or 100% relative to a factory setting on the machine. Any ideas?
  16. I’ve been having trouble with extreme stringing using Gizmodorks PVA. The strands wrap themselves around the shaft of the front fan, and even if I remove the strands from the fan after every print, they eventually kill the fan, which leads to the filament melting above the print head, which jams the material feeding system. I’ve had to replace the fan 3 times now. It may seem like a no brainer to just stop using the Gizmodorks PVA but it’s much less expensive and much easier to remove than every other alternative I’ve tried. I’ve also tried enabling retraction, increasing retraction distance, changing print temperature, and changing travel speed. None of these have helped. I’m currently printing the PVA at 35mm/s and 185 Degrees C. I think it’s important to note that the eSun PLA I use as the primary material has no issues with stringing. Does anyone have any experience with this material, or any suggestions for how I might resolve this issue? Thanks!
  17. Suddnely my both bondtech QR extruders doesn't work any more after an update, indeed the filament does not come out at all .. it just makes the skirt and then goes to extreme under-extrusion .. almost nothing .. before they were very perfect ..!! it is as if the steps x mm did not work .. there is under extrusion .. I checked via putty and everything seems to be ok ... firmware ultimaker 3
  18. Hallo Community, ich habe den Finder von Flashforge geschenkt bekommen und würde ihn gerne in Verbindung mit Cura testen. Ein passendes Profil habe ich bereits gefunden, doch leider scheitert schon die Verbindung. Im Netzwerk findet Cura keine(n) Drucker, auch nicht bei manueller Eingabe der IP. In der Software vom Hersteller muss ich den Port mit angeben. Versuche ich das in Cura, sagt der Assistent "ungültige IP". Beispiel-IP: Muss ich hier den Port anders eingeben, oder funktioniert das generell nicht drahtlos mit dem Drucker? Gruß Chris
  19. Hi. Just got Cura and have a question about the Barbarian plugin regarding converting from mm to inches. It only gives me the option to convert to to metric, but i was under the impression this plugin would allow you to do the opposite. My model loads into Cura and shows as mm but when i use Barbarian to convert to metric it gets too massive for the printer. am i missing something? Is there truly no way to convert "back" to my original model dimensions? Thanks!
  20. Hi, This is my first experience of 3D printing so I’m very green, but learning (as fast as possible). I’ve been given a CubeX single jet machine but I don’t have the toolkit or the Cubify USB stick. I've sorted various hardware issues and I think I am about ready to ask it to print. Hence, I have downloaded Cura 5.1.0 and in the Welcome Page, hit 'Get Started'. But when I try to 'Add a non-networked printer' there are no CubeX machines in the list. So, my question is -- Is there a way to add a Cura Profile for my ancient printer or do I have to enter all the details manually? (and which details are necessary?) Hoping you can help me. Regards, Myosotis.
  21. Recently needed to access some of the smarter Cura printing features for model planes on a Guider 2s. Found a few 'solutions' written over the past couple of years on how to link the two but could get none to work. I sense a mix of Guider 2s firmware evolving, some specific interpretations of codes by Flashforge, and an 'anomaly' in Cura. So took on board what I read (as much about what hasn't worked as what did), pulled apart some Flashprint and S3D G-Code files, and came up with something that works (as of August 2022). Short summary is the attached codes works for me on Cura 5.1 and Guider 2s (firmware g31 20211101). Note this Guider 2s firmware uses proprietary USB connection (can't connect to Cura through standard USB/com port), auto leveling (the attached code doesn't break the auto leveling sensor as others have experienced), and supports gcode files (so no need to change file extension) - just finish slicing, save to USB, and put USB in printer to build. Basic steps are: Set up new Custom Printer in Cura as per screenshots Add the start gcode and end gcode to the printer settings Add the Post Processing 'Search and Replace' rules to Cura (I have included these at the end of the gcode file, so strip them off and enter separately) I have also included in the screen shots my evolving gcode library for the Guider 2s that has the mix of codes that seem to be (mostly) active and seem to do what I have written. I am no expert so happy for any additional input that can help tidy all this up. A couple of the curve balls in this I picked up are below (and others may have better answers to these): M118 is used by Flashforge to dimension the outer edges of the build volume (including skirt etc.) based on centre of bed for X and Y axes, absolute for Z axis. So in Flashprint will be auto created to look something like this: M118 X32.69 Y15.50 Z49.10 (for centered Benchy). Those size variables don't seem to exist in Cura (MAXX, MAXY aren't quite them and don't seem available in code). So I started using the maximum values hard coded (M118 X140 Y125 Z300) but then found S3D just sets M118 X10 Y10 Z10 in all cases and it appears to work. Minor note: based on observation of this code executing, M104 and M140 seem to set temperature AND wait until temperature reached (or the code is not executed sequentially!!). Will test what happens if I remove M6 and M7 later to validate this. Under some circumstances Cura will set the temperature variable passed to M104 and M140 for extruder / bed (eg, M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0) with 1 decimal place. That screws up the Guider 2s and it reads it as zero so sets minimum bed and Extruder temperatures. Hence the two Post processing scripts to tidy that up. Thanks to this thread for the workaround: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/8657 Case fan commands work, I just manually comment them out when not using. S3D and some Cura recommendations also suggest using M907 (eg. M907 X100 Y100 Z40 A100 B100) to set motor current. Flashprint doesn't. Not sure what best practice is here. Given the proprietary USB link / driver the best way I found to test gcodes relatively quickly (without slice, USB stick etc.) was through 3D Polar Cloud via network connection to printer. And as noted above - just save as gcode on USB and Guider 2s will go from there. This code emulates the S3D pre-extrusion along the front of the build plate before printing starts. Still refining this and will update as I get more prints done through Cura. Open to any other thoughts that help tidy up. Gibbo Cura-Guider_2s.gcode
  22. I have a Flashforge Creator Pro 2, and printing with Cura is mostly going well, but I'm having one small problem that's making prints tend to go wrong right at the start: my second print head doesn't visit the prime tower on its first layer. I'm printing with PLA and PVA; I put down a raft of PLA so the PVA supports have something easier to adhere to, which is great in theory, but it means there's several layers of nothing but PLA printing the raft while the PVA just waits for the first time it'll be used; even with a lowered standby temperature, it takes a moment for the PVA flow to turn out well after that. In theory that's what the prime tower would address, but I just finally noticed: the first time the PVA head comes out, it goes directly into printing the supports, ignoring the prime tower completely. On all subsequent layers, it comes out, adds to the prime tower, and then adds to the supports; but the first layer is when it really needs the prime tower, since it's been waiting so long, and it skips it completely, and as a result my first layer of PVA tends to have like an 80% chance of just being spaghetti. (If it survives that first layer, all the subsequent ones are fine, so the prime tower clearly does its job, when the printer isn't skipping it!) Is this a bug resulting from combining a prime tower with a raft, maybe? Has anyone else run into it?
  23. Thank you Tang for the awesome instructions!😁 👉in order to use Cura with the Flashforge Creator Pro 2👍 1: Select "Add a non-networked printer>Custom FFF Printer" 2: Enter x(width) 255.0mm, Y(Depth) 145.0mm, Z (Height) 150mm 3: Build plate shape: Rectangular 4: Checkbox: Origin at center, and heated bed 5: G-code Flavor: Griffin 6: Number of Extruders: 2 7: Start G-Code: M118 X30.00 Y30.00 Z25.80 T0 T1 M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;start bed preheating M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, 0} M104 T1 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0, 1} M107 G90 G28 M132 X Y Z A B G1 Z50.000 F420 G161 X Y F3300 M7 T0 M6 T0 M6 T1 M651 8: End G-Code: M104 S0 T0 M104 S0 T1 M140 S0 T0 G162 Z F1800 G28 X Y M132 X Y A B M652 G91 M18 9: Under Extruder 1: Change Diameter to 1.75mm 10: Under Extruder 1: Under Extruder Start G-Code: M108 T0 11: Under Extruder 2: Change Diameter to 1.75mm 12: Under Extruder 2: Under Extruder Start G-Code: M108 T1 🍻Happy Printing! 😄
  24. Hello to group. I have experienced these artifacts over time and have no explanation. Using Cura 4 Do any experienced user have an idea for these patterns? Many Thanks Richard B
  25. Not sure if I just wasn't looking good enough for an Ultimaker S3 profile, but it looks like there is none for PrusaSlicer and/or SuperSlicer. Am I right?
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