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Found 22 results

  1. Hello, I need to print some prototypes with Ultimaker PC material, on our S5 printers. Was curious if anyone tried printing with some kind of Breakaway material as support(I have the one from Smartfill) and had success on small prints. Also, do you have any tips/tricks for printing with it? What settings do you use for support, when using PC as support, not something else. Any other tips? Thanks a lot. Cosmin
  2. Has anyone else tried this filament? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GP31WY6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It is easily the shiniest PLA filament I have experienced. Very smoothly wound and tangle free. The spool fits on the UM3 Extended perfectly. These are the copper. I have also tried the gold. It's a little yellow for my taste, but still very shiny.
  3. I hate printing with PVA though it is sometimes necessary. Just recently, I have had to print a structure which needs 6 separate columns of PVA along the lines of what you see in the attached photo. I needed these to go up to about 60mm height at which level they would do their support work. The problem is that half these columns were knocked off the vertical before they had got higher than 20 mm. This is a new reel of PVA with no obvious signs of having taken on moisture. I was using a prime tower to avoid uneccesary stringing etc. I couldn't use Breakaway as this is a fragile structure. I think the highest I have ever gone with support material was around 150 mm using Breakaway, but this wasn't in the form of columns like this, but was one solid scaffolding structure which was not sensitive to sideways knocks. I don't think I've ever tried going higher than 30 or 40 mm using PVA. So my question is: just how high have people managed to go with PVA? With my immediate problem, might I get better results by printing very slowly? ...or is this something to do with the quality of the calibration of the machines concerned?
  4. Hello, I installed new version of CURA today, removed old version and... deleted my materials database... Anyone can help me out? PLA, ABS... that's all I need 🙂 Don't know the parameters for sure... Thx!
  5. Hello everyone, I would like to get some advises/experience from you with the Tough PLA (white) . Printing on a brand new S5, I'm getting always the same problem on each part I'm printing with the tough PLA (see attached pictures). I'm printing in closed room with aspirated air. To resolve the issue, I've made the common verification...Bed Level, Stable support, No play in the axles of the printer, sliced the model on latest Cura 4.4. The issue seems to be less important when I lower the temp, but I'm getting very far from the initial print temp as I'm now printing at 200C with a bed at 40C but still the problem remain and I'll give it a try at 195C. I've tried to print the support with Breakaway or with the tough PLA without real success in any of them...even with a supported overhang of 45... I'm trying to get out of solution, if any of you have some advices ? Thanks for your help, JR
  6. Hi I have been trying to print the Ultimaker Nylon but the parts keep warping from the bed, First I tried with Glue stick as recommended, then tried it with the Dimma fix adhesive spray and the part still warped. The part had a brim, first the bed was at 70 degrees and I tried it at 95 degrees with the Dimma fix as well but they all warped. The prints tend to be very long about 10 hours, even with the Dimma fix at 95 degrees the part warped after about 6 hours of printing. Anyone have experience printing large Nylon prints? Thanks.
  7. I am looking for a high temp filament that is fairly easy to print on our Ultimaker S5, that will be able to print at 0.06mm layers. We currently outsource these parts in a SLA resin called Accura Bluestone (which has a HDT of 270°c once thermally post-cured). We need it to take about 145-150°c without warping. The parts will be under NO load, and will be metalized most of the time. Is there any such filament out there? Thanks in advance!
  8. @Ultimaker: So today I took a closer look at the TPU print, where after the first layers I switched the old, nearly empty TPU spool I had dried with a PrintDry previously out for a brand new one that was still in its plastic packaging. *After* the switch, the print quality gets much worse, with very bad stringing, surface irregularities and the like - in short, everything that you would expect of a spool of wet material. I find it outrageous that the premium Ultimaker materials are packaged this way (just cardboard and thin plastic shrink wrap around it, which sometimes even has holes in it). Every single competitor I know of, even if their materials cost half or even a third of the Ultimaker ones, manages to use reasonably air-tight packaging for their spools, so you can use the materials for what you bought them for - to PRINT! (Not to dry them first). Seriously, this has to change! This is no way of working, especially for industrial customers who have to actually *deliver* parts!
  9. Hello everyone, I just wanted to warn you about an issue about a recent purchase (from the awesome supplier @Dim3nsioneer) You have an issue in your production line. I bought a Tough PLA white but it says Breakaway in one side and PLA one the other! NFC tag says PLA (tested).
  10. Bonjour. Est-ce que quelqu'un pourrait m'indiquer où sont sauvegarder les matériaux que l'on crée nous même. Car j'ai UM 3.4.1 qui s'est planté, et j'ai tout perdu mes profils. Merci beaucoup.
  11. Hi! I am using Ultimaker 2+ for prototyping components of machines. These parts are not geometrically complicated nor have fine details, but I want these prototypes to be more or less functional, so the priorities are: - Dimensional stability (the lowest warping) - good mechannical properties (specially critical is the layer adhesion). Up to now, I have used PLA, which has a good dimensional stability, but its mechannical behaviour is not so good, and ABS, which is quite stronger but only works well when the pieces doesn't have long and straight faces or walls (contraction issues: warping and interlayer cracks). I have also tried HIPS, whose contraction is a bit lower than ABS, but still warps quite a lot if the piece has a high infill and straight walls (besides, its adhesion to the build plate is very soft). I wanted to try nylong, but it requires managing humidity... According to your experience, which material is the best for functional prototyping? Thanks in advance
  12. I am trying to implement Breakaway in an academic maker space and I am running into some issues with surface quality. To start: I am using a UM3 with Ultimaker brand PLA and Breakaway. The machine being used for the test is serviced on a monthly basis and has no other issues. Slicer settings: (Default for Cura if not stated) Layer height: .1 Infill: 40% Model Extruder: Extruder 1 (PLA) Support Extruder: Extruder 2 (Breakaway) Support Z distance: .1 Prime Tower: Enabled I came to these settings after looking through the forums on topics related to Breakaway but my search didn't lead me to anyone with my same issue. Here is an example of the surface issue: The area on the top of the print is what I am concerned about. In all the test prints I have done, this surface warping has occurred to some extent. I have tried Support Z distances between .1 and .3 with prime towers on each print and this continues to happen. Has anyone else had this issue? The rest of the print looks great and I would really love to solve this so that we could use it in our space. Thanks!
  13. Hello everyone! My name is Nick, and I'm new to 3D printing. I was super excited when I got this Ultimate S5 couple days ago. However, as I was printing, I started to discover that there is a problem with the PVA print. Every time, it didn't come out correctly from the feeder as the image shows. It either clogged or suddenly fed out a large pile of PVA during printing, which was very frustrating. The 3D printer is covered and placed in a room with closed windows, so I don't think that internal temperature is a problem. What could the problem be? Moisturized material? Broken feeder? Bad Cura set-up? The printer is broken? I need to solve this issue asap so I can replace the machine if the machine itself is broken. Sorry for taking your time. I truly appreciate your help!
  14. My way to dry the PVA spool is to hang it on the air conditioner for the night.
  15. Hi all, We just got our Ultimaker 5 at the office and it's super exciting! Right now we're trying to print a handle, but we're having some troubles printing with PVA as the support material. The other material in this case is Tough PLA. The print creates these blobs/bulbs and strings (for a lack of a better term) both ejected on the glass plate and on the support structure itself. Since it takes about 2 days to print one handle I figured I should read up on the settings and what could be the cause. So far I've only found that Ultimaker recommends: "When printing PVA in combination with another material, we recommend using the adhesion method for the accompanying material. For the best adhesion and print quality, we recommend setting the ‘build plate adhesion type’ to Extruder 2 (PVA) in Ultimaker Cura." I'm yet to try this setting. Does anyone have any experience with that setting? Does it make it better? As we're just begining to learn the machine and Cura we're not exactly sure how to get rid of this problem. Do any of you people out there with more experience know if this issue could be circumvented with some Cura settings?
  16. I've been working with Ultimaker CPE Dark Grey for a few days now and it seems like I'm getting more stringing and 'goobers' than I expected. I'm using the default profile that was set by the NFC chip in the spool. I went through a roll of PLA first on the S5 and the print quality was close to perfect. Since loading up the CPE I keep getting print quality like you see in the image below. I tried dropping the temp by 5 deg or so to see if the stringing was less but can't really perceive a difference. Any suggestions are much appreciated.
  17. It's been a few years since I posted here. I'm looking at getting a couple more UM3 printers and the material of interest will be Dupont Hytrel TPC-ET. Does anyone have experience with this material and the UM printers? I'm hoping to use it with PVA to create a nice smooth print with overhangs that need the support. I know the print settings will be close to that of Ninja Flex. Any recommendations or knowledge of this material would be greatly appreciated. Dupont Hytrel
  18. I was planning to print with some ColorFabb transparent Co-Polyester from on my Ultimaker 3. The hope was that I could use it with Ultimaker brand PVA support material in the 2nd head. However, the Co-polyester's processing temp is 220-240 degrees C. I know that PVA will not support materials with significantly higher printing temps, but this seems like a grey zone. Also, just saw this on Ultlimaker's site: "PVA is only supported on the Ultimaker 3 and is currently optimized to serve as a support structure for either PLA or Nylon." This suggests that there may be a problem combining these materials? Thanks!
  19. Does Ultimaker have any plans for in house filaments that could be used with the new abrasion resistant print core? I have seen some for 3rd party filaments on the market that encompass glass fiber or carbon fiber enhanced materials but am curious to see if Ultimaker plans to provide their own version of composite materials. Curious to see if there are any metallic filled materials in future work.
  20. Can anyone tell me the best bed adhesion for an S5 printing PC?
  21. Hi to all, What are the best settings for nylon with carbon fiber? And I must choose nylon in Um3 when I load that filament? Thank you and sorry for my english 😊
  22. Hi, I just did my first print with PLA and PVA support. It's a big print and it took about 30 hours to finish. Now I want to remove the PVA support. Is it critical to submerge the entire PLA into water or can I simply only submerge the parts with PVA? I know that PLA can be affected by water hotter than 35 degrees Celcius, and I want to be as gentle with my print as possible so I won't damage it. Do you have any tips and tricks? Thanks :-)
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