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  1. Hi, I get the following error message when trying to install the Polylite ASA material plugin: „1 plugins failed to download“ Any idea where the problem can come from? Many thanks in advance!
  2. Ultimaker BreakAway is a support material just like PVA, except it does not dissolve in water but is more easily removed than other support materials and therefore requires minimal to no post processing. Have you used BreakAway already? Let us know what you think below in the comments. It might be useful to users who are considering using it. Do you have any other questions about Ultimaker BreakAway? Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Just let us know in the comments below!
  3. Ultimaker PVA is a water-soluble support material that allows you to print complex or internal structures that otherwise would not be possible or support structures that otherwise could not be removed. Because it dissolves in water it is also quite sensitive to absorb humidity from the air. Can it be used as a support material with every material when it needs to be cleaned in water afterwards? If you’re not sure, drop us a line below! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. So do you have a question about Ultimaker PVA properties or do you want to hear the experience from customers who have used it before? Go ahead and ask us below, grab a coffee, and sit back knowing that help is on its way!
  4. Hi everyone can someone tell me why the glossy structure of petg after printing has good quality and how to set our printer to have glossy structure
  5. Ultimaker CPE is chemical resistant, tough and has reliable dimensional stability. But is it also resistant against the chemicals used in or around your application? If you’re not sure, drop us a line below! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are ready to help. Have you used CPE before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use CPE. Thanks a bunch!
  6. I am using a U5S to print parts to be used in a cell-culture environment, and they need to be sterile. I am tending towards polycarbonate since it seems to be the most heat-resistant of all the "easy-to-print" materials. I was wondering: what is the highest temperature that a PC-printed model will withstand without deforming? This is crucial, as it will determine my choice of sterilization method.
  7. Ultimaker Tough PLA prints like PLA but has a toughness more similar to ABS. Making it ideal for functional prototypes and larger tools. So when should you pick PLA, ABS or Tough PLA? Ask us below in the comments! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Have you used Tough PLA before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use Tough PLA.
  8. Hi, I have previously used Stratasys ABS material with great success on there machines but have, until recently, not attempted to use ABS on Ultimakers. I now have a project where the client has request ABS as the material and have ran some samples parts in UM ABS on our S5 Pro Bundle. The parts look fantastic however, the inter-layer adhesion is terrible. Any force in the z-direction and the part will cleave quite cleanly along a layer. Parts printed so far have been with a variety of the UM recommended profiles from Cura and have also tried to increase the printing temperature. Nothing appears to make a difference. Any suggestions? Carl
  9. Hello, I installed new version of CURA today, removed old version and... deleted my materials database... Anyone can help me out? PLA, ABS... that's all I need 🙂 Don't know the parameters for sure... Thx!
  10. I am considering using conductive filaments for low-voltage applications (sensors etc.). I was wondering whether anybody has done that, and whether you could share your experiences (quality of various filaments) and tips. Many thanks in advance.
  11. Ultimaker Nylon can withstand significant mechanical stress, is impact resistant, abrasion resistant and compared to some other nylons it has reduced humidity absorption. It is used sometimes to replace metal components. Is it also a good material for your application? Drop us a line below if you have a question about some of its exact properties! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Or have you used Ultimaker Nylon before yourself? Please let us know what you think of it. It could be useful to new customers considering to use Ultimaker Nylon. Whatever the inquiry, let us below, grab a coffee, and sit back knowing that help is on its way!
  12. Ultimaker PLA is highly versatile, easy to print and therefor a popular choice for many applications. What about yours? If you’re not sure about all of its properties, drop us a line below! Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Or have you already used Ultimaker PLA? Please let us know below what your experience is. It could be useful for new customers considering to use PLA. Whatever the inquiry, write a comment below, grab a coffee, and sit back knowing that help is on its way!
  13. What is the composition of Ultimaker brand filament - TPU 95A ?
  14. Ultimaker ABS is formulated to minimize warping and ensure consistent interlayer adhesion, which can be an issue with ABS. ABS has been a popular material for many years already. But more and more alternatives appear on the market. When should you use ABS or when should pick something else? Ask us below in the comments! Community experts, Ultimaker experts and material experts are available to help. Have you printed with Ultimaker ABS before? Let us know what you think! It could be useful for customers considering to use it.
  15. Ultimaker TPU95A is a flexible material and chemical resistant. Printing flexible material is not always easy, but with TPU95A you should have a seamless 3D printing experience. Excellent from printing handles, bumpers or outer shells to reduce damage from wear. How flexible your print is can be influenced via the amount of walls and the type of infill used. Curious? Ask us below what you are trying to achieve! Have you used TPU95A before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use TPU95A.
  16. Ultimaker PC is strong, dimensionally stable up to temperatures as high as 110ºC, which is great for outdoor parts. Do you have any questions about PC or have you used PC before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use PC.
  17. Ultimaker PP is a durable, chemical resistant material. It has high levels of toughness, a low friction co-efficient and exceptional fatigue resistance. That means it is excellent to make certain clamps, bottles, holders or grips. Curious if it is the right material for your application? Ask us below in the comments! Have you used PP before? Let us know what you thought below, it might be helpful to new customers considering to use PP.
  18. Ultimaker CPE+ is chemical resistant, dimensionally stable and has a higher temperature resistance and impact strength compared to CPE. Curious if the impact strength is sufficient for your application? Get in touch with our community and we can help you build the strongest part possible. Community experts and Ultimaker experts are available to help. Or have you used CPE+ yourself? Let us know what you think of it! It could be useful for new customers considering to use CPE+ for their applications. Thanks!
  19. Hi does the ultimaker filament have batch numbers, to excatly trace down the batch? Didn't find something on the package ... maybe on the NFC-Chip? (If yes, can it be read out by the customer? Its sometimes needed, if items for medical use are printed.) Thanks in advance Yvonne
  20. Hi - First let me stipulate I am relatively new to 3D printing. I have done my fair share of printing larger and mechanical parts (as R&D is what we do) but I want to apologise in advance if my question is a trivial one and I am simply overlooking something obvious. I have modelled a part in PLA and it is time for printing the prototypes that will be used for field testings. These parts have large flat surfaces, so initially I though bed adhesion should not be a problem, even though I am aware larger flat surfaces can come with their own set of challenges. I started with the smallest of the parts, ±22mm x ±100mm x 70mm footprint, a simple bucket shaped object. I always start with with the default Cura profiles, MAYBE altering wall, bottom and top thickness, but that is it. The rest I leave as it is. The first print started fine, but about 1 hour into the print, the far right corner lifted from the build plate. From there things just got worse. My Settings: Profile: CURA CPE default profile (also reduced speed and fans by 25% on a second run) Filament: Ultimaker CPE Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Bed Adhesion: Tried both Brim and Skirt Bed Adhesion assistance: Magigoo Bed Temp: 70C Nozzle Temp: 250C Flow: 100% After tge first failed print, I cleaned the bed with water, wiped clean again with Isopropyl and then added fresh coat of Magigoo. Results was even worse. Could not get the brim to stick even. Levelled the bed again (even closer to the nozzle). Again Brim would not stick. Wiped the Bed again with water, added another fresh coat of Magigoo. Changed brim to skirt. At least this way the print starts, but as with the first attempt, the far right corner warped and lifted from the bed after about an hour. I then enclosed the front, reorientated the print by turning it 90deg and cleaned the nozzle (atomic method). Same result unfortunately. Just to make sure the bed was level, I switched to PLA again... printed perfectly. Attached is an image of the very simple part I am trying to print. Would really appreciate some help. At wits end here... Regards, Friedl.
  21. I love my Ultimaker printers, but I'm always horrified by how wasteful the filament spools are in terms of packaging material and the super-heavy plastic spools. I throw the spools and the cardboard packaging into the recycling bin, but the more I read about problems with plastic recycling, the more I realize that we need to drastically reduce single-use materials instead of relying on recycling. Ultimaker, please stop using such heavy plastic spool for your filaments - either make the plastic spools much, much lighter, to reduce the amount of plastic waste, or switch to something more environmentally friendly, like recycled cardboard or some other recycled natural fiber. I'm strongly considering switching to a different brand of filament (even though I hate how easy it is to use UM filaments) because I can't stand how wasteful the UM filament spools are.
  22. Printed excellent Ultimaker TPU 95A, but tried to unload filament just moved about 5 mm and stopped hearing the gear still working until normal end cycle. Tried relief the tension on the filament by flipping the level and pulling the filament but no go ....it stretches repeated the above two methods several times but no go what's the best next step? Thanks
  23. Looking to print w ABS on my S3. What are the recommendations/experience for compatible support materials? Seems to me, to be limited to BVOH or UM Breakaway. Ether removal process is fine w me, just looking for insights, brands, tips etc. Not interested in using HIPS. I may consider a switch to Tough PLA, but I really like the surface quality properties I get with ABS in my UM 2+
  24. Jabil is selectable in Cura but does not show on selecting a material on my S5.....there are other third party filament available...uninstalled and installed Jabil but no luck What's the next step? Thanks Cura 4.9.1
  25. I have been conducting experiments with different TPU filaments and here is what I find. All but one are supposedly TPU95A: UM: works great! Matterhackers: Won't load properly initially and quits loading during printing Polymaker: same as Matterhackers NinjaTek Cheetah: works great! NinjaTek NinjaFlex (TPU 85A): same as Matterhackers You can 100% predict whether or not the filament will work based on the initial load. The filaments that fail will stop the initial load 2-3 inches away from the print head because of friction in the Bowden tube. The UM and Cheetah don't quite make it to the print head but are within an inch. I just release the clamp and push them into the print head to save time on the initial load. There are times when I really do want to use softer filaments. I have played around with the feed tension and that makes no difference. Has anyone had any success with these softer filaments and if so what did you do to overcome the friction problem?
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