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  1. Hi - First let me stipulate I am relatively new to 3D printing. I have done my fair share of printing larger and mechanical parts (as R&D is what we do) but I want to apologise in advance if my question is a trivial one and I am simply overlooking something obvious. I have modelled a part in PLA and it is time for printing the prototypes that will be used for field testings. These parts have large flat surfaces, so initially I though bed adhesion should not be a problem, even though I am aware larger flat surfaces can come with their own set of challenges.
  2. I love my Ultimaker printers, but I'm always horrified by how wasteful the filament spools are in terms of packaging material and the super-heavy plastic spools. I throw the spools and the cardboard packaging into the recycling bin, but the more I read about problems with plastic recycling, the more I realize that we need to drastically reduce single-use materials instead of relying on recycling. Ultimaker, please stop using such heavy plastic spool for your filaments - either make the plastic spools much, much lighter, to reduce the amount of plastic waste, or switch to something
  3. Printed excellent Ultimaker TPU 95A, but tried to unload filament just moved about 5 mm and stopped hearing the gear still working until normal end cycle. Tried relief the tension on the filament by flipping the level and pulling the filament but no go ....it stretches repeated the above two methods several times but no go what's the best next step? Thanks
  4. Looking to print w ABS on my S3. What are the recommendations/experience for compatible support materials? Seems to me, to be limited to BVOH or UM Breakaway. Ether removal process is fine w me, just looking for insights, brands, tips etc. Not interested in using HIPS. I may consider a switch to Tough PLA, but I really like the surface quality properties I get with ABS in my UM 2+
  5. Jabil is selectable in Cura but does not show on selecting a material on my S5.....there are other third party filament available...uninstalled and installed Jabil but no luck What's the next step? Thanks Cura 4.9.1
  6. I have been conducting experiments with different TPU filaments and here is what I find. All but one are supposedly TPU95A: UM: works great! Matterhackers: Won't load properly initially and quits loading during printing Polymaker: same as Matterhackers NinjaTek Cheetah: works great! NinjaTek NinjaFlex (TPU 85A): same as Matterhackers You can 100% predict whether or not the filament will work based on the initial load. The filaments that fail will stop the initial load 2-3 inches away from the print head because of friction in the Bowden tube. The UM and Chee
  7. I have started 3-D printing with a UMS5 Pro Bundle at work. I currently have 6 materials in the Material Station but need to print another material/add a spool of the same as I near the end of the original spool. What is the shelf life of all the UM materials? I currently have tough PLA, ABS, TPU 95A, Nylon, CPE+, and PETG in the Material Station. What is the best material to remove that won't get bad from sitting in the open? I do have PVA but have not opened it yet. I believe I had read that Nylon or ABS does not like siting in the open. Any information would be helpful. Thanks
  8. Need a clear filament for reproduction of a old search light "lens" on a boat. Hopeful just like a glass pane on a window......is something like that available or maybe close to it??? Thanks
  9. Dear Team, I am a Research Scholar, currently working in the area of 3D printing technology for biomedical applications using Ultimaker's Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU 95A). I would like to know the TPU composition - whether it is polyester based TPU or polyether based TPU. It would be more helpful for my research work to carry out further experiments.
  10. Hi, I need a cura profile for printing um tpu 95A with support by my um3!! Thank you
  11. Hi, I am working on a project testing material resistance to aviation hydraulic fluid (Skydrol/Hyjet V). I am looking for recommendations of materials which may have some resistance to such a chemical. I know that GF30-PA6 fairs well when exposed to these chemicals but equally that materials such as ABS and PLA degrade extremely quickly. Any material suggestions or data sources would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks, Soph
  12. I know it's a bit of a craze, but I would like to try out some gloss rainbow/gradient filaments, but I have been pretty much unable to find any in 2.85mm size. Has anyone else come across any, ideally availible in the UK.
  13. Hi everyone! Looking for some advice on ABS printing, I'm currently running into issues with bed adhesion and warping. I'll try to make this as concise as possible but include as much info as possible. Using a brand new UM2E+ with an enclosure made of corrugated plastic that sits at 95F-110F (depending on the printer settings) and 3D Universe ABS, which specifies 220-250C on the nozzle, 100-130C on the bed, and no cooling fan. I've tried printing nozzle temps from 230-250C, anything above 230C seems to give me a lot of oozing and over extrusion, mostly prese
  14. Currently, I am seeking for an aluminum filament for Ultimaker S5. I understand BASF offers metal filament but only in stainless 316L. https://ultimaker.com/materials/basf-ultrafuse-316l Does anyone sell aluminum filament for Ultimaker?
  15. I have used PVA dissolvable material in my S5 for awhile. However, with this spool that was fine initially, it now is starting to flow poorly, not stick as well to the glass, and is badically looking ragged instead of smooth. All the same settings. The only thing that helped a little bit was increasing the temp by 15C, but still is quite poor. So, I am wondering if this material degrades over time when the plastic wrapping is removed and exposed to air?
  16. I do not see this listed on your site... https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012059859-The-Ultimaker-material-technical-and-safety-data-sheets Can you please provide this?
  17. I have a full reel of X STRAND 2.85mm filament - glass-fibre reinforced polyamide 6, GF30-PA6, which you can have if you cover the carriage (UK). Bought in October 2020. Open but stored with desiccant. Cost £70.85 plus VAT. I mistakenly thought I could print it on an Ultimaker 2+. Contact me on derek@blizzardsurvival.com or 07786-437962. Feel free to share or re-post this.
  18. I am trying to 3D print a diving canister used to store battery packs that power underwater torches, heating elements, etc. Traditionally these canisters are machined with a lathe using Delrin acetal homopolymer (Polyoxymethylene POM). They are often rated to 200 or even 300 meters (600-900 feet), which means 21 to 31 bars of atmospheric pressure (300-450 psi). This is how a Delrin machined canister would look like: And this is one of the 3D model to be used for 3D printing: I know POM-C is available from FrontierFila and Uayella as
  19. Does anybody have any tips on printing with Colorfabb NGEN Clear? I can not get it anywhere near transparent. My prints are always of a totally opaque frosted appearance.
  20. I ask because this is the first Ultimaker material that I have bought that didn't include a resealable bag in the box. Thanks for your assistance.
  21. Hi All I hope this is the right place for this. We are having issues with Ultimaker filament spools we tend to get through about 25 spools a month, and use a material station with our S5. Every so often (we now have 6 of these) we get a spool that will not recognise, so there is no point adding to the material station as it will never take from it if a spool that did recognise runs out. Is there a way to "fix"/ replace just the tag as we are starting to build up spools of perfectly good materials that are just increased hassle to use.
  22. Seems like a semi common issue but I am having problems with the UM PVA support material printing correctly on a S5. I have tried a couple different spools with one brand new just ordered that is dry out of the bag which works much better in the tube and doesn't break before the print core which is good. But using the standard material and print core settings the material / extruder doesn't seems to stick or gets hung up on the nozzle and never prints correctly. Does anyone have any tips they could share as this seems to be a common issue from reviewing other posts. Sounds like the FormFut
  23. Hi all, I'm having some real trouble with an amazing statue print. Michealangelo's david. I must have tried 20 test prints but there is always something wrong with it. I'm using various standard PLA. I've got close a few times but there is always an issue with the left arm/elbow or hair detail with the support settings. Even at 0.15mm. 0.4mm nozzle. 55% overhang support etc. Settings are attached below! Can anyone suggest a better set of settings? Please help, Thanks
  24. Good day, my fellow 3D geeks! I am a new member of 3D printing world and I am yet to print my first 3D model ever. I am waiting for my Ultimaker S5 to be delivered soon. I was given a gift card by the shop that sold me the printer so I have a bit of cash to spend. What materials and accessories should I get? I am not looking to do anything fancy in the first say... 6 months as I want to get used to the printer and learn its particulars first. Is the filament dryer worth getting? I have a humidifier in my apartment, so the humidity level is always between 35-40%. That you all very much in
  25. https://imgur.com/cYihrQY Is there a setting in Cura that lets you print these lines consecutively and not split up when there is a hole in the body? The sheen is not uniform when its split up like this. If not can someone who is very smart create one? I heard Prusa has this feature coming out soon.
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