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  1. Help Please. After a long trouble shooting search on my Ultimaker 2 extended. I replaced my 5v hot end cooling fan. but now I have no control of the 12v model cooling fans. I have no speed control and they are always on and will not shut off.
  2. When pausing a print for a filament change via the front button on the UM2, the head automatically moves to a park position in the front left corner and lowers the build plate. However if the pause for filament change is initiated via the M600 command in G-code, the head stays over the part and makes it impossible to extrude the filament during the filament change. I use the @TinkerGnome firmware. In the firmware source it seems M600 can take optional parameters for the head parking position: // M600 - Pause for filament change X[pos] Y[pos] Z[relative lift] E[initial retract] L[later retract distance for removal] But what values should be used to get a similar behaviour like a pause from the front panel knob? And do I have to add a manual move back over the part or will this be done automatically? I use Prusa Slicer 2.5 to generate the g-code.
  3. I realized that I had never changed the nozzle on my machine since installing the Olsson block (😬) so I ordered a few .4mm nozzles from Matterhackers. After installing the nozzle, though, I haven't been able to get the machine to extrude properly. I just did a big overhaul, replacing the feeder and Bowden tube, taking apart the head and cleaning the whole line. I've tried a couple of different nozzles, but no luck. After the latest attempt, though, I realized that there's plastic leaking on the outside of the nozzle through the Olsson block. What am I doing wrong? Why can't I seem to install these nozzles correctly?
  4. I'm fitting a UM fan kit (ULT1004000327-P1) to an Ultimaker 2. The new 2x 12V side fans are working fine, but when I plugged the rear 5V fan in, at first it wouldn't work, then spun normally for a while, then finally when I tested it before reassembly it started to smoke and now doesn't work. When I check the polarity of the feed from the FAN 5V J34 connector on the PCB it's reversed compared to the red/black colouring of the cable in the wiring loom. I've attached a photo of the plug on the PCB end of the wiring loom (top) compared to the plug on the fan (bottom). The old fan obviously worked fine, and has the same serial number as the new one, so I need to know if the wiring is correct, or has the loom been made up wrongly when assembled originally. Also whether the new fan I fitted doesn't like the polarity being reversed or was just faulty.
  5. Hi my ultimaker 2 has just startingayer skipping it can happen at any time and any directions ive checked the pulley and there all tight and belts seem fine aswell. Any suggestions?
  6. I noticed this problem when I tried to do a print and the printer switched off after a second or two and then rebooted. I did a few basic tests and found that it can heat the nozzle but not the bedplate. As soon as I try to heat the bedplate it switches off then reboots. Based on previous threads for similar problems it seems like it might be the power adaptor that's letting me down. The printer is four years old and the adaptor is model GST220A24-R7B. Any assistance much appreciated, either confirming the likely power adaptor problem or suggesting alternatives... Thanks!
  7. Hi all, I really hope somebody could give me a hint, this problem is driving me nuts. So, here comes the story. I have an UM 2+ and printed for a lot of hours without any problems. A few days ago the printer starts to get crazy. I selected a Material (XT) that I used a lot before but when I started the print, the printer switched off on its way to the "nozzle purge" position. I tried it a few times and always the same, sometimes it took a little longer and it almost started the first layer. But finally it always switched off and on again and just stant still. So, I tried a few things, also a factory reset but finally I ordered a new power supply. Also with the new power supply I had the same behavior. So, I tried PLA instead of XT because I thought maybe the heater is defect and with a lower temperature it might work... Indeed, it worked with PLA, the complete print for 7h. So I switched back again to the XT but sinde I did a factory reset I selected the CPE setting and tuned the bed temperature a bit. Now it printed about 1h but again switched off and on again. I created a custom material based on CPE on the printer and selected it. Now the printer switched off again already before it got to the "nozzle purge" position. I installed Tinker FW, again I used XT with the builtin setting of CPE. After about an hour the problem occured again. Also here I created a custom Material for XT. As soon I use the custom material the printer switches off a lot earlier (before it comes to the purge position). I also extensively tested all functionalities manually (heated the nozzle, heated the bed, material feeder, moving the head, "raped" all wires and cables during the movings and so on) but it never switched off. After this I started a print and *bang*, it switched off. I tried to delete all the meta information in the UltiGCode file (the lines which begin with the ; at the beginning of the file). Without the "FLAVOR" keyword, the bed risis and the the print head immediately starts to move but without extrusion. The printer doesn't switch off. For me it somehow looks like the EEprom on the board is defect and it crashes as soon the FW wants to use the custom material settings. But first of all it sounds too strange and second why it also crashes with the built in materials but not before it printed an hour or so? I hope somebody could give me a hint that is not "buy a new board". R googol
  8. Hello, I was wondering if anyone help me try and figure out a problem. I am having random resets of my 2+ ext at weird times. Sometime during the start up phases of a print and sometimes X amt of hrs into it causing it to fail. Have tried different files to see if it was something to do with the files. No luck, along with heating the bed and nozzle up separately to see if one of them causes the same issue. Again no luck. It hard to replicate when it does reset due to it happening at different times but the two mention times are the most common. I have also explored the option maybe it was the power outlet I had it attached to, but have relocated it to a different plug and tested the original plug for any faults. It had been working fine till after I took the feeder motor off to do some daily maintenance on it due to filament dust was mixing with the grease, thus why I took it apart and cleared the caked up gunk and relubed the gears. Short of taking it apart to get to the board underneath other test or avenues I need to explore.
  9. Hey all, having an issue where my drive wheel in the back of the printer is slipping and/or losing traction. I presume there is likely a simple fix, but it has alluded my my limited understanding of the design. Is there some kind of adjustment that can be made? I am using 2.85mm PLA filament on an Ultimaker 2 Happy Friday and thanks in advance!
  10. Hey everyone, The universe has a sense of humor because leading to my business launch, my UM2E+ decides to stop reading my SD card with all my G-codes. There is a new SD card on the one so I will try that but I've read somewhere I would have to replace the ulticontroller overall in general if that doesn't work...Given my warranty expired a long time ago and ulticontroller is around $90, I was thinking of replacing it myself. Before I do that though, I was wondering if anyone else had a similar problem and if they fixed it. Please help! My pre-launch is in a month and my launch is by end of the year! Any feedback would be appreciated! Thank you!
  11. Hey, I woyld like to know if it's possible to stop or pause a printing job by sending a request on USB with following conditions : - the job is starting with embedded control panel - the gcode file is on usb card and obtain classicaly by using Cura or other slicer - the usb request is sending by custom board (esp32......) and not by software like cura or octoprint running on pc or other raspberry Rgds
  12. Afternoon all. I've been doing some refurb on my Ultimaker 2, new bearings, belts, hotend etc. When I have come to use it again, it is coming up with the ER05 and ER06 errors about the Z axis. I've done some digging, and noticed on the main board, the little stepper driver chip associated with the Z axis stepper motor, has got a chunk missing from it. Presumably this is why the Z axis limit is considered to be stuck/broken, as the Z axis cannot move. I have tested the Z axis motor using a standalone driver, and the motor is working perfectly. The motor coil resistance is in spec, and also the limit switch is actually working correctly (using TP80 to check for 5V/0V when switch is used). I have a V2.1.1. mainboard, and it has the hardware for the second extruder. I was wondering if anyone has any compiled a custom firmware, that allows the use of the E2 driver to power the Z axis motor? From what I can tell from the schematics, the only issue I can see, is that the Stepper driver Vref for the second extruder, is shared with the primary extruder, and therefore the Z axis current limit will need to be the same as the Extruder? Thanks Andy
  13. As with everything old, my 3d printer stop functioning. It appears the extrusion head is not able to reach temperature; or for that matter, maintain any temperature. I suspect the entire assembly needs replacing. I'm a casual user of this product and I'm sure if push came to shove, I could determine it to be... something. But, I just want a part to see if it works. So, where do I go for parts? Any help would be great.
  14. I have been using this machine (on loan from a good friend) now for 6 months (I have run about 4kg of PLA). Since I got it I have had to: re-solder the thermister on the bed (Bed temp error) re-flow the solder on the connector on the bed (Bed power cutting out) replace the bare wire to screw terminal connections with crimp on ferrule connectors to improve (bed/thermister connection errors) All of these worked - and I was able to get back up printing but this morning I discovered the bed won't heat - after just last night completing a 36 hour print. Before I look again for a root cause I have a few questions: Is there an updated bed replacement? Is there any reason why I can't replace the stiff bed power supply wires with a more supple silicone covered wire replacement of appropriate gage? Is there a better way to connect the thermister and power wiring to the bed to reduce strain on the cable harness (the apparent source of the majority of the bed issues) from the forum activity - this is a persistent problem - are the folks at Ultimaker considering a better design for this machine? - hence the question about an updated design. I print a lot - and need a printer that will deliver on request - and not be on a voyage of discovery every time there is an error keeping me from printing. I don't want to be a printer expert - that is why I expected a lot from the Ultimaker - is this a misguided perception of the Ultimaker brand being of a robust design? I can fix it - I can re-engineer the bed cable interface to mitigate future mechanical failures - I would like to know if this has been fixed - and how to get the updated bed.
  15. Hello, I have a Ultimaker Original with a 2.1.4 board. I put a UM2 head on it and the fans don't spin all the way on full power. Checked the main fans and the voltage I getting is 6V, which is half or fourth of what I should. The hotend fan isnt working either when the temp goes above 5V. I flashed the firmware with that from the custom builder (bUltimaker builder) and also tried to compile one of my own. Not sure how to fix it and wondering if there was something that would work. Thanks!
  16. Greetings New to the forum so please bear with. I have a 2+ extended. It has been working ok up until now for what I've been doing. however, it's developed a problem which I don't know how to overcome. The build plate basically stopped heating up. : The 1st time it did it, it threw up an error code of ER02, and told me to investigate. I checked the wires were screwed in to the plate properly. Then I tried again. : No error but the plate still didn't warm up. When I go to advanced and select heat build plate. The screen says what the temp is, slash, what you want it to be be, right! The temp reads 78 degrees, and when I wind knob to 100 degrees, it warms up to a tepidness and I can rest my hand on it. So that's wrong for a start. : Swapped temp plugs over. now temp reads 19, on the left, but doesn't get any higher, and on the right, I can wind it up all the way and the plate gets hot. : The nozzle doesn't get hot however, and reads like when plate is plugged in to that part of the board, reading 70-80 something when it's normal room temp and not getting hot when I ask it to. So, is my main board knackered? I ask because it all points to that temp sensor socket for the plate. Not a big electronic whiz, but I can get by with basic stuff. if it's the board, do I have to install firmware upon fitting a new one? I genuinely don't know. Any help is massively appreciated.
  17. Hey all, I'm a long time admirer of 3d printing and have been dabbling in 3D design for a couple years now. I was just given this old(er) Ultimaker 2 and was happy to see that it basically started right up after being used a few times and shelved. I noticed this top piece of the extrusion head had some cracks and obvious damage, but it was hard not to try and print something. After a total of maybe 3 hours of printing since I received this printer it finally broke, obviously 75% into a print lol! Just wondering if anyone knows what its called, where I can get a replacement and perhaps some detailed diagrams of the entire machine so I can correctly identify parts on my own! Gonna try to use some plastic welding glue to see if I can get some temporary use out of the machine! Looking forward to exploring the collective knowledge here in the Ultimaker Community!!
  18. This is mostly noticeable in spiral mode, but also in regular prints. I switched nozzle to 0.6 mm hardened steel, re-calibrated the build plate. Slicing in Cura 5.1, tried both Marlin and Ultimaker gcode flavors. I put z offset to -0.1 mm, it wouldn't stick otherwise. What are the parameters I should look into? Cubes in spiral mode (wall thickness is correct, maybe even a little fat): In Cura: And a regular model:
  19. Hi Ultimaker Team/Community I'm looking for some advice. I have an Ultimaker 2 extended. As I'm sure you are well aware, the normal operation after a print; is for the print head to return home. Then when a new print starts the bed lifts to about 2cm below the print head, and the head will move to the front left and extrude(Purge the hot end) then move to the start of the print, and then start to print the first layer. My printer prints 100% - No problem with printing! My issue is... it does not send the head back home, Not after bed levering Not after a print. Or on startup When I start a print, what happens is this; the printer moves the head forward as if the "IT believes the head was at the "Home" position Top Left! But it moves forward then the stepper motor slips the belt "Until IT believes the head is now at the ready point to start the print/extrude/Purge" The Left to right axis works 100% Then the normal print sequence starts and it prints 100% After the print, it moves all the way to the left but not backwards, it stops at the same level the the print ended at and it does not return home on that axis.... What can I check? As mentioned it prints 100% I can post a video if it will help. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-6VnxWRQ-lBh14UoNG9h2X5oEjvgG2wA/view?usp=sharing Thanks, Schalk
  20. Hi, a while ago, one of our UM2+ (UM2 upgraded with Extrusion Upgrade Kit) started printing visible layer lines (refer picture "BeforeMaintenance" in attachment). The cause of the issue was not printfile-related, as the same file printed perfectly on one of our other UM2+. The printer in question was scheduled for maintenance, so we immediately performed thorough maintenance, i.e. we replaced the trapezoidal nut (the thread was cracked slightly in one spot), we stabilized the Z stage (alignment of bearings for smooth manual movement of the print bed), we reinstalled the XY linear shafts (making sure the pulleys are correctly positioned and the timing belts are tightened, both the timing belts of the motor and the axles) and realigned the print head axes (using the alignment tool). We printed new tests and although the results are much better, they are still not ideal (refer picture "AfterMaintenance" in attachment). From our tests, the visible layer lines do not show up on the same height, but are rather printed randomly. We were wondering if someone from the UM team or the UM community would be able to help us get to the bottom of this. We were considering to replace the pulleys and timing belts, but at the same time they haven't been exposed to that much wear - far less than some of our other printers - so we wanted to post the question here first 🙂 Thanks!
  21. Hi, i have an ultimaker 2 that has a printing head needs to be replace and thats it. Everything is still functional and new considering its print time is not much even though i had it for more than two years. Anyone knows where i can sell it since i don't use it anymore? Thank you. Edit: I am from South California , USA . Thank you for the comment lol sorry!!
  22. I noticed that the part fans on my ultimaker 2 had stopped working the other day and found a broken wire between them, after replacing the wire they still don't work. I tried switching them both out with new replacement fans with no luck. I have since noticed that the heated bed isn't heating anymore. I have access to the board atm but don't know what I am looking for or how to test anything. Any info I've missed I can find. Any advice on how to proceed from here Thanks
  23. Hello, i want to turn on hot end fan for ultimaker 2 but don't know how to do it because i uninstall the heater block and buy a new one, so now i can't heat up the nozzle and thus the hot end fan can't be turnt on automatically by heating up the nozzle. Is there any way i can turn this hot end fan on by gcode or something? If so how do i run the gcode in ultimaker 2. Thank you.
  24. When I change the nozzle setting in cura and slice, the ultimaker still displays the file with 0.4 nozzle. I have changed it to 0.6 in cura but when you scroll to the file it says 0.4 and prints with bad extrusion. I have two machines. Both have the same problem. 1 has marlin firmware and the other has the bondtech firmware. Am I being dumb or can anyone else shed some light on why this may be happening?
  25. As the title reads, my UM2 skips at all times, with any filament, at the highest tension... Yes, even during the initial extrusion before the print starts This only started being this severe today, as previously it would only skip during the first layer; i've already calibrated the bed properly, so the nozzle is not too close to the glass bed. I would not know what i can do, beside taking the entire printhead apart to check for any type of edge causing friction; or checking the Bowden tube for wear causing friction aswell...
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