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  1. I have a seven year old Ultimaker 2. I just installed the UM2 extrusion upgrade. All went well. Only thing off was that original UM2 did not have ferric core around the motor wires. Tried to use Cura to upgrade the firmware and there was not 'Ultimaker 2' choice. Tried the UM2 Connect version and unit does not turn on normally. Front display stays black. Don't know what to try next. Any suggestions appreciated.
  2. I am getting an "ER06 Z Switch Stuck". But the z-switch is connected correctly and is working fine. (measured the resistance in open en closed state on the motherboard). What could be wrong?
  3. Trying to get some help with my Ultimaker 2+. I was performing a standard firmware update through Cura when the software failed and lost connection to the printer. The screen on the printer went blank and I cant get it to come back on. When I connect the USB cable the computer does not recognize the printer. I took off the cover to the main board and checked that there is still a light so I have power. It seems like the board firmware at this point is corrupted and I have a bricked printer. Has anyone had luck reflashing the main board with fresh firmware? I am wondering if I were to use some other program than Cura, maybe Arduino..., if that would do the trick? Any ideas?
  4. Hi all, I have an issue with my UM2+ extended printer. So, basically I left it over night and in the morning I saw something like this (picture). Whole hot end was covered by melted filament. I had to use hot gun to melt it and take it off laver by layer. Once I finished the cleaning it work good, as before. But this overflowing issue happend in next few days again. Does someone of you had similar problem or have a sugestion what could be the reason of such a behaviour? I changed the to make sure it is clean, but it didnt help. I also did atomic method to clean it. Everything looks fine, but at some point it gets stucked... Any advices would be appreciated. Best, Daniel
  5. Can anyone confirm the manufacturer model number or specs for the UM2+ feeder motor? I am trying to upgrade my UMO+ to use the UM2+ feeder but have found conflicting information for the length of the D-shaft of the UM2+ feeder motor. The Ultimaker 2+ BOm (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker2Plus) says that the XY and feeder motors are different part numbers #1182 and #1977 respectively. UM2+ XY motor 1182 below UM2+ feeder motor 1977 below The STEP file for 1182 shows a motor with a ~17.75mm shaft and 1977 STEP file motor has a 24mm shaft. The UM2 (not plus) feeder motor seems to have a 24mm shaft. I read online that the UM2 feeder motor needs to be physically modified to fit the UM2+ feeder due to a "longer" shaft. I know that the UM2 feeder motor has a different step count then the UM2+ feeder motor. The closest manufacturer model number I've found for UM2+ feeder motor is SY42STH47-1684A but I'm not sure if that is even the right one. Does the UM2+ feeder motor actually differ from the UM2 feeder motor in shaft length?? They both seem to be 24mm long. Thanks.
  6. Hi, i wanted some feedback for my problem analysis. Printer: Ultimaker 2+ with about 8000h print hours Everything was printing fine until suddenly i let the printer sit for holidays. When i came back nothing would stick to the PEI plate. I cleaned and tested everything. ( Extruder cleaned, build plate cleaned, new Nozzle). I noticed the filament did not flow fast enough at the start of the print so i started turning the flow rate up and heard the extruder could not keep up. Following that i upped the temperature of the nozzle in 5°C steps until i hat 20°C+ and it suddenly worked. With that knowledge i suspect the temperature sensor is broken. I measured the thread of the block (with out a nozzle) a difference of 30°C. (Printer shows 210° reality 180°C) Is my conclusion right that the sensor is broken? Is this normal that this happens? Is it possible to just change the sensor ? Thank you in advance :)
  7. The Ultimaker 2+ is a 3D production workhorse in many companies as it provides a reliable, flexible and tunable machine. Production capacity was always easily expanded by adding more machines and copying SD cards. The UM2+ is also GCODE compatible with most other Ultimaker printers so we can have a mix of printers. The introduction of the UM2+ Connect, and discontinuance of the UM2+, disrupts the existing workflow completely. The UM2+C does not print anything for the UM2+. This means reslicing all STL files for the UM2+C. However, Cura doesn't accept UM2+ profiles for the UM2+C so all profiles have to be redeveloped before reslicing over 150 STL objects. Also, since the material profiles are now moved into the sliced objects, when using a new material, or a material from another brand, the designs have to be resliced for the new material. With the UM2+ only a material profile on the printer itself needs to be added. This creates a jungle of files that need to be maintained during design changes. This is an R&D and production nightmare. In addition, the UM2+ allows tuning parameters like temperatatures, flow rate, retract settings etcetera on the fly, seeing what the effect is and working towards optimized settings that can be used in the print or material profile. The UM2+C does nothing like that and shows nothing about the current print job except the remaining time. Settings can not be verified during printing, not even the current material settings. This feature request proposes a UM2+ compatibility mode for the UM2+C. We propose to have the option to switch the printer over to full functional and visual compatibility with the UM2+, including its (text) screen layout (the dancing filenames on the UM2+C are dizzying and make it very time consuming to select a file from a long list). The rotary button can be emulated with some kind of slider on the touch screen. With this UM2+ compatibility mode we can continue our hassle free production process without having to spend a lot of resources on R&D, debugging and changing production procedures. At the very least, we request that the UM2+C can print existing UM2+ GCODE with material profiles stored on the printer. Without this compatibility we have to explore other avenues such as replacing the hardware in the UM2+C with UM2+ hardware, or take our loss on the UM printers and moving to other printers altogether.
  8. @Ultimaker 2+ why nobody seems to talk about how to keep a good balance Quality/Speed? Real problems are how to print under 8 hours big complex models with loads of overhangs ,very thin walls and it's not feasible to split the 3d model. Any tips for UM2+? #ultimaker #3Dprinting
  9. I have an Ultimaker 2+ that will not print correctly. When I came back to school over the summer and tried to print something, very little filament would come out of the print head and when it did, it would curl up on itself. I did an atomic method to make sure everything inside the nozzle was fine and when I did, the filament came out just fine upon pressing down and it came out the perfect shape (No dirt or anything. So then I figured it was something to do with the filament feeding. Sure enough, when I took out the filament, there was grinding at the part of the plastic that was in the feeder. I took off the feeder and cleaned it out and reassembled everything again. I did yet another atomic clean just to make sure nothing was stuck after another failed print and then finally reloaded the plastic. It's still doing the same thing. I've also tried turning up the temperature of the nozzle just in case. I'm pretty sure something is causing the filament to not move correctly and therefore, it's grinding. But after cleaning out the feeder, it fed the filament correctly when reloading, so it's something that's happening during the print. Hope all of that made sense.
  10. hello all i'm using Discov3ry with the ultimaker 2+ printer for the paste extrusion profile, but syringe in the discov3ry is not moving, even lead screw is moving but it is unable to push syringe upwards. require help asap
  11. I replaced my original print head on my printer with the the closest model available (Ultimaker 2+), I'm not sure if they're is anything different but now the hot-end has serious trouble maintaining a steady temperature, causing ribbed edges on the sides of prints. When a print begins, it does a massive spike (35+ Celsius over setting) and then continuously fluctuates around 10 under to 20 over the mark. I checked the motherboard and the connections seem fine. I've never done any update to the printer, simply changed out the print-head. Anything I might be missing?
  12. The crossbars on which the print head sits ride on pairs of brackets, each bracket attached to its drive belt. All of a sudden, both of the crossbars are loose in their brackets and can become entirely disengaged, which obviously causes a print failure. Haven't seen any mention of this. Has it happened to other people? Any recommendations for a fix?
  13. After searching found this reference from several years ago but no resolution --> https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/11660-print-bed-doesnt-go-all-the-way-up/ Just acquired an Ulti 2+ (not Connect) and cleaned it up, made sure all connections are secure and clean, everything is tight and lubed, powers on and regulates properly.. the ONLY issue is that when raising the bed, it stops about an inch short of the proper level height. Updated firmware via Cura and retried. No change. Factory reset via front panel. No change. At this point, baffled other than being a firmware issue so if someone can direct me to alternatives or how this has been solved in the past, bravo to you sir or ma'am. Thx
  14. Hi - I have been printing successfully (using PLA, CPE, TPU & TPE) for the past 8 months or so and have never experienced delimitation before, let alone while printing with PLA. I have had warping of CPE parts (pulling off the bed) but PLA has been straight forward a trouble free... so far. I read through a couple of posts, the seem quite dated so it seems everyone else has figure this out but me 🙂 It is the first winter since owning the UM2+, so I am trying to figure out whether ambient temperature could be playing a part. It has been quite cold lately (7-10C). I do however have a custom Plexiglass lid in the front of my printer, but not is not enclosed on the top. My basic settings are: Print Temp: 210C Bed Temp: 60C Layer Height: 0.15mm Speed: 60mm Cooling Fan : 85% (started at 100% but reduced it in an effort to stop the delaminating) I attached a picture of the parts. I also included a picture of the first layer printing, it seems bed is levelled just fine. I have had some success printing with a draft shield, which made me wonder if it is now better controlling the heat around the model. Hope someone can help. Regards, Friedl.
  15. Hello, with my UM2+ I recently had the issue "Z Switch is broken ER05" although I am pretty sure that my Z switch is okay. In order to check the HW, I mounted a fully working control board and tested the functionalities. Everything seemed to work perfectly. I assume that my current control board has an issue. I installed Marlin 19 and 17 to test with another FW. The same error. Also did a factory reset unfortunately didn't do much difference. I also tried swapping the X-Axis Motor Connection with the Z-Axis Motor Connection. Then the error suddenly turned to "X or Y Switch is Broken" which has made me even more suspicious about a possible SW issue. I also pushed down my heated bed all the way down till it hit my Z-Switch. In this case i received "Z-Switch is stuck". Once I tried to move the X,Y and Z Axis manually with CURA via USB I noticed that none of the steppers are actually responding. This seems very weird. Has anyone encountered such problem recently? It didn't look like an HW issue since all the steppers stopped working suddenly.
  16. Hi all, I have an Ultimaker 2 that is freezing very predictably at the exact same spot every print. I have been trying to print a small part, and nearly half way through layer 2 the print head just stops. The the fans stays on, the hot end cools down. It is also responsive to homing commands. It tells me: Your printer's firmware reported an error. Due to that the ongoing print job will be cancelled. Reported error: Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) Send: N554 G0 F5400 X127.866 Y101.235*67 Recv: ok Send: N555 G1 F1800 X101.235 Y127.866 E82.37168*49 Recv: Error:Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) Changing monitoring state from "Printing" to "Cancelling" Send: N556 M108*44 Recv: Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting) Recv: ok Just for a bit of background, the LCD screen on the machine has not worked for years, so I have been using Octoprint, which has been fine. I have tried printing directly from Cura via USB and exactly the same thing happens. I have tried printing other parts from Gcode that have successfully printed before, and the same thing happens. The machine was working fine with an older version of the firmware installed. After this problem happened, I then went to install the latest firmware, but the problem persisted. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
  17. Hello I own a printer Ultimaker 2+ I have been having a serious problem with the printer for the last week. While I'm trying to print a file the printer turns off on its own after a few minutes and returns almost immediately. Τhe nozzle and built plate stay where printing stopped. I tried to update the firmware without any result. (my version is 2.6.2) I also did a factory reset and tried to use older version of cura.
  18. So I went to maintenance advanced options to raise the build plate, and it instead lowered it, and made a horrible grinding sound when it did it, any idea what went wrong? I recently removed this custom build plate that had magnetic build plate installed on it. How can I fix the issue?
  19. I have an UM2 extended that someone did modifications to. I am trying to revert the build plate back to the way it was and noticed the screws for the build plate clamps on the back two corners were missing when I purchased it years ago. I believe the UM2 guide for replacing clamps says they are lock nut and bolts.... but I cannot tell what size I am meant to purchase. Would anyone know?
  20. I'm looking for replacement parts for my Ultimaker 2. Searching the web I'm just finding UM2+ parts. Is the UM2+ basically the same as the UM2 and can the parts fit interchangeably? If not, where can one find UM2 parts?
  21. Hello everyone. I'm new here because I have start to hate this printer. I hope it is because of me... maybe I can't "configure it as it should be... Is there any default and working print settings for PLA? I know it is not Prusa, so it won't work straight away ... but how long time it has to take to finaly set it up? After 3 times bed calibration that is the "best" result I have got 😞 Here is some bridging test ... Here tolerance test ... all welded together... (elephant foot is on everything) Any advice what should I do to finally print something on this printer? Thanks in advance.
  22. I am a teacher in the US who has an Ultimaker 2 printer. I would like to get numerous colors of filament for a project I will be doing with my students during an educational summer camp, and I have certain vendors I have to use per our district guidelines. My question is, will Makerbot PLA filament work for the project (link to specific product I'm considering purchasing: https://www.schoolspecialty.com/makerbot-true-color-large-pla-filament-10-pack-1542363)? Any feedback is appreciated!
  23. Hello everyone, I have been plagued for quite some time by an under-extrusion issue and I am at my wit's end. Below is the Problem, My general settings, Some context, and what I have tried as a result. Problem: As shown in the attached picture, 2 of my 3 Ultimaker 2+ machines have an under-extrusion issue. They both have the exact same amount of underextrusion. And it remains consistent through the entire part it prints, regardless of print size. The first layer will print perfect. Every layer after is under-extruded. Settings: Carbon Fiber HTPLA from Protopasta. Hardened Steel Nozzles 225C Print temp 0.24 mm Layers 0.55 Lines 0.6 mm Nozzle 45 mm/s Print speed (all speeds expect for travel which is 100) Flow Rate 100% First Layer is 0.4 mm thick First Layer speed is 25 mm/s More Context The two printers that are not working are at work The other printer that works 100% fine is at home The room temperature at work is about 70F The room temperature at home is about 60F (Basement) All 3 printers were originally Ultimaker 2 machines that I installed the + kit on. All settings and hardware on the 3 printers is IDENTICAL (Ive gone through it several times to make sure) I print using 3kg rolls What I have tried Gr5 has a list of things to look at that he posts when responding to people on this topic and I have gone through all of them. I have actually replaced bowden tubes, couplers, nozzles, thermometers, heater cartridges, and the feeder gear assembly to try and fix it, but the problem has stayed the exact same. This leads me to think its an issue with firmware or Cura version. I have confirmed that all 3 printers have the same firmware, cura version, etc. And it still is the same. I have changed the temperature anywhere from 215 all the way up to 240 but that hardly affects it. At this point the only thing that I have not done is completely change out the control board. But I am not sure I can even get any of those anymore. Again, the first layer goes down PERFECT, but then it just under-extrudes after that. But remember my printer at home has the exact same settings and slicer config and does just fine, so I am flabbergasted as to what the issue is here. Any ideas?
  24. I need assistance with my Ultimaker2 printer. I had about 3 hours left on a 40 hour print and the feeder cylinder on the stepper motor came off. I was away from the printer when this happen and when I came back the nozzle was about .5 inches above the plastic part. I paused the printer and would like to know how I can go back and pick up where it left off. Is there a way to access the NC code from the printer? What options do i have? Is there something in Cura that will help? Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you.
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