Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'UM2+'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
    • Ultimaker.com feedback
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Materials
    • Modifications, third party add-ons & other hardware
  • 3D print Questions
    • Help, Tips & Tricks
    • 3D modeling software
  • Fields of Work
    • Architecture
    • Engineering
    • Manufacturing
    • Education
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Events and meetings
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages
  • Clubs used for testing's Clubs explained

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


About Me


Field of Work


Country


3D printer


On The Web

Found 358 results

  1. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  2. Hi everyone! First things first: I am working with an Ultimaker 2+, Cura 4.3.0 on Windows 10 and the recommended TinkerGnome Firmware on my printer. This problem needs some help and I would be grateful if you could provide it. As mentioned in the title I recently added a new custom material to my Ultimaker 2+ via the export/edit .txt file/import from SD card method. The idea is to design a material which needs no heating up of either the nozzle or the print bed, as I plugged a selfmade syringe pump to the extruder 1 output in the process of converting the printer into a bioprinter for an university project. Editing and importing the material worked just fine and when I am using the default materials the extruder works just fine as well. As soon as I switch to the custom material though, the extruder stepper motor simply does not move a Millimeter. Here is the edited .txt file (I marked the custom part at the bottom orange) and the fist couple lines of the gcode: .txt file --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- [material] name=PLA temperature=210 temperature_0.40=210 retraction_length_0.40=6.50 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=195 retraction_length_0.25=6.50 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=230 retraction_length_0.60=6.50 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=240 retraction_length_0.80=6.50 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=240 retraction_length_1.00=6.50 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=60 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=ABS temperature=260 temperature_0.40=250 retraction_length_0.40=6.50 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=245 retraction_length_0.25=6.50 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=260 retraction_length_0.60=6.50 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=260 retraction_length_0.80=6.50 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=260 retraction_length_1.00=6.50 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=80 fan_speed=100 flow=107 diameter=2.85 [material] name=CPE temperature=250 temperature_0.40=250 retraction_length_0.40=6.50 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=245 retraction_length_0.25=6.50 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=260 retraction_length_0.60=6.50 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=260 retraction_length_0.80=6.50 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=260 retraction_length_1.00=6.50 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=70 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=PC temperature=260 temperature_0.40=260 retraction_length_0.40=6.50 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=260 retraction_length_0.25=6.50 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=260 retraction_length_0.60=6.50 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=260 retraction_length_0.80=6.50 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=260 retraction_length_1.00=6.50 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=110 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=Nylon temperature=250 temperature_0.40=250 retraction_length_0.40=6.50 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=240 retraction_length_0.25=6.50 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=255 retraction_length_0.60=6.50 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=260 retraction_length_0.80=6.50 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=260 retraction_length_1.00=6.50 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=60 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=CPE+ temperature=260 temperature_0.40=260 retraction_length_0.40=6.50 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=260 retraction_length_0.25=6.50 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=260 retraction_length_0.60=6.50 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=260 retraction_length_0.80=6.50 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=260 retraction_length_1.00=6.50 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=110 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=TPU 95A temperature=235 temperature_0.40=235 retraction_length_0.40=10.00 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=235 retraction_length_0.25=10.00 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=235 retraction_length_0.60=10.00 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=235 retraction_length_0.80=10.00 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=235 retraction_length_1.00=10.00 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=70 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=PP temperature=220 temperature_0.40=220 retraction_length_0.40=8.00 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=220 retraction_length_0.25=8.00 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=230 retraction_length_0.60=8.00 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=240 retraction_length_0.80=8.00 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=240 retraction_length_1.00=8.00 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=100 fan_speed=100 flow=100 diameter=2.85 [material] name=Hydrogel temperature=35 temperature_0.40=25 retraction_length_0.40=8.00 retraction_speed_0.40=25.00 temperature_0.25=25 retraction_length_0.25=8.00 retraction_speed_0.25=25.00 temperature_0.60=25 retraction_length_0.60=8.00 retraction_speed_0.60=25.00 temperature_0.80=25 retraction_length_0.80=8.00 retraction_speed_0.80=25.00 temperature_1.00=35 retraction_length_1.00=8.00 retraction_speed_1.00=25.00 bed_temperature=25 fan_speed=0 flow=100 diameter=2.85 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- G-CODE --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ;FLAVOR:Marlin ;TIME:1059 ;Filament used: 0.153787m ;Layer height: 0.1 ;MINX:93.295 ;MINY:93.289 ;MINZ:0.27 ;MAXX:129.717 ;MAXY:129.712 ;MAXZ:13.97 ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.3.0 M140 S25 M105 M190 S25 M104 S25 M105 M109 S25 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 Z0 ;move Z to bottom endstops G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to endstops G1 X15 Y0 F4000 ;move X/Y to front of printer G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform to 15mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:138 ;LAYER:0 M107 G0 F3600 X98.628 Y98.624 Z0.27 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- I really don´ t know what to do about this. Maybe it is because the extruder won´ t extrude unless a certain temperature in the nozzle is reached? Anyway I am grateful for any tip! cheers, properN00b
  3. Hi everyone! Before I start off: I am working with an UM2+, Cura 4.3.0 on Windows 10 and the tinkergnome UM2+ firmware. I am currently working on a university project. The aim is to convert the regular UM2+ into a printer which can do both regular and bio-printing (bio-printing is in short words the printing of hydrogel in which you can implement cells, so you can print organic material in every desired form). To achieve this I already designed and printed a syringe pump which is driven by more or less the same stepper motor the current extruder is using. This makes it possible to switch from regular to bioprinting by unplugging the extruder motor and plugging in the syringe pump. This leads to my question: In order to keep the syringe pump from crashing every time the syringe gets empty, I want to include two endstops for the extruder motor. I already took a look into TinkerGnome´ s Firmware and I could imagine that it should be possible to include the endstops within the definition of the regular endstops. The desired reaction would be to pause the current print until the material "is changed". What I am asking for at this point is experience. Has anyone ever tried to do this and could maybe even help me out with some code advises? I have some programming experience, but mostly with Java and Python so I could really use some help. Especially as the firmware is pretty huge and I am not sure which files have to be edited to make this work. Also I am not entirely sure how to compile and upload the edited firmware. I tried setting up the regular Marlin firmware (the way it was explained in a YT tutorial) but all I got was a huge bunch of errors on the Arduino IDE, mostly Index out of bounds... I know I am asking for a lot and I could totally understand if nobody is willing to put that much effort into a stranger´ s project. But I promise if you can help me and I should ever run into you in real life I will buy you a couple of beers! Cheers, Max
  4. Why oh why does it still take 2x longer to print the same part on the UM3 than the UM2? the material is exactly the same PLA, the machines sit on the same desk so environment is exactly the same, the print profile is exactly the same, yet a print using 2g can take literally 2x the print time! 31 mins vs 15!!
  5. Hi All, I just unboxed a brand new Ultimaker 2+, and was following the initial setup in the manual, but the material feeder did not work at all. No noise, no attempt to grab the material when the menu prompts said it should during the initial startup. I tried turning the printer off and performed a factory reset to go through the process again, but the same thing happened. Has anybody else had this issue? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks, Tim
  6. Hi, this is my new hobby milling-machine with 800x500mm workspace. Contains about 4kg of PLA for spindle-mounts, e-chains, suction system, end caps... PLA works great for this. I have just added thermal isolation plates between the motors and the spindle-mounts.
  7. I've got a thin section here on this cylindrical form I'm printing for a client. I'm not sure why it's printing a castle-like structure on the top. It should all be solid. Can someone take a look at my settings and see if there's something I need to change? Thank you in advance.
  8. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  9. Hallo allemaal, Afgelopen week wilde ik met mijn Ultimaker 2+ een testprint doen met een model van Prototypehubs, echter liep ik steeds (ongeveer 6 keer) tegen hetzelfde probleem dat de linker pilaar afbreekt/ of wordt omgetikt door de nozzle. Ik heb geprobeerd het probleem te verhelpen door wijzigingen aan te brengen in de instellingen van Cura 4.3.0, alleen heeft dit tot op heden nog niets opgeleverd. Ik weet eerlijk gezegd ook niet of het aan de software/instellingen ligt, of de hardware. De kwaliteit van de print ziet er verder goed uit, alleen breekt de (boog) overhang telkens af op hetzelfde linkerpunt. Ik heb dit probleem één keer eerder gehad met het vampire castle model van Miniworld3D. Daar braken smalle pilaren (met overhangs) aan de zijkant van het kasteel telkens af, ook dat probleem heb ik niet kunnen verhelpen. Aangezien ik een Ultimaker 2+ heb gekocht als hobbyist en zelf (nog) niet beschik over zeer technische kennis, vroeg ik mij af of iemand mij met dit probleem kan helpen. Ik heb onderstaand mijn printsettings en foto's toegevoegd, hopelijk dat iemand mij hiermee kan helpen. Als er vragen of opmerkingen zijn, hoor ik dat graag! De printsettings die ik heb gebruikt zijn: Poging 1 0.15mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) 2 perimeters Scale 125% Printspeed 30mm/sec Infill 20% Printtemperatuur 200 graden celcius Cooling 100% Bed 60 graden celcius Poging 2 0.15mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) 3 perimeters Scale 140% Print speed 35mm/sec Infill 30% Temperatuur 210 graden Cooling 100% Bed 60 graden celcius Poging 3 0.15mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) 4 perimeters Scale 150% Print speed 35mm/sec Infill 30% Temperatuur 210 graden Cooling 100% Bed 60 graden celcius Poging 4 0.1mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) 3 perimeters Scale 100% Print speed 30mm/sec Infill 30% Temperatuur 210 graden Cooling 100% Bed 60 graden celcius Poging 5 0.1mm layer height (0.4mm nozzle) 3 perimeters Scale 100% Print speed 30mm/sec Infill 40% Temperatuur 210 graden Cooling 100% Bed 60 graden celcius Het model dat ik voor deze test heb gebruik is hier te vinden: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-protocity-hubs-91415 Met vriendelijke groet, Erwin Boxen
  10. The printer at our library had not been used in a while. When I tried to change the color, the filament snapped off inside the tube. Now it goes from the printhead to several inches above the feeder. My question is, how do I get it out? Do I take off the nozzle (while heated) then wait for it to cool and push it backwards with some wire? I really don't want to take the printhead apart to get the teflon tube out. Oh wait, can I put some good filament in behind it? But then will the loading run for too long (it will assume that the tube is empty to begin with) and make the situation worse? If loading more filament to push it forwards is workable, I can just print a couple tiny things until the bad filament has all been pushed through the nozzle. Also, do I need to adjust the feeder gear with the screw? Is that why the filament broke? Whee this is fun [sad face].
  11. Hi everyone. 2 weeks ago I bought UM2+ and love it. All prints came out perfectly with no issues untill last night. I was trying to print 8 h long run and layers were shifted after 1/2 print time. After reading this forum I found that someone was asking is motor belt rubbing on endstop cables. I think I have this is a problem on my machine. I can see that one of the small belts is rubbing on endstop. Not sure this coused skipping steps, but it doesn't look healthy. After 1/2 of print time the skipps started to happen and it continue almost untill the end of the print. The skips are all in the same direction. What should I do? I also attached the picture of last print which came outh perfectly. This one is made with almost the same cura settings.
  12. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  13. Hallo Zusammen, ich bin etwas ratlos, woher das folgende Problem kommen könnte. Seit dem ich den UM 2+ habe, kommt es besonders bei dem Füllmuster „Gitter“ zu einem Rattern sobald sich die Druckdüse quer zum Füllmuster bewegt. Die resultierenden Vibrationen sind je nach Ausprägung an der Druckplatte aber auch am Druckobjekt zu erkennen. An dem Drucker wurde noch nichts umgebaut und ich benutzte aktuell auch erst die zweite Rolle Ultimaker PLA Silber Metallic 2,85 mm mit der 0,4 mm Düse. Was man aber noch zusätzlich erkennen kann ist, dass sich zufällige Materialanhäufungen in der Füllung und auch Spalte in z-Richtung an den Kreuzungen der Gitter zum Teil hochziehen. Ich habe in dem Anhang noch die Einstellungen aus Cura sowie ein Bilder vom Druck beigefügt. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Marcus94
  14. Looking to sell my Ultimaker 2+, upgraded from Ultimaker 2 (hot end, nozzles, filament guide, build plate) Asking for $1200, light usage. LED strips aren't working 100% but that seems to be the only issue I'm aware of. I did a test print last night of ColorFabb XT and it came out great. This sale will come with original parts replaced in the upgrade and with DIY upgraded parts (ball bearing, segmented build plate cable protector, etc) Used for learning about 3D printing processes, no serious production work on it. I am located in the Boston area. Please buy it so that I can buy a UM S5 Pro! 😄
  15. We have several 2+ with failing SD card readers. I am not interested in trying to desolder and resolder the sd card readers to the board. Does anyone have a source and cost for these boards?
  16. Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assembly friendly but the design really rocks. So, for now just photos. Oh also UM3 Core version for um2 zgemark2, Gudo is testing it just now the first designs. It will only need 2 fans for the print cooling but each head will have his 5v fan. The fans are very easy to assemble or remove and every part is modular. The clip system uses a 'spring-magnet' system, that so far looks amazing but need's testing. Also the print precision will be really crucial on the clip system. Also Gudo moved the bed, by changing the screw points, this gives a 1cm area for the hotends to rest, so they don't need to rampup/rampdown while park/unpark. Also the magnet clip system allows for smooth removal to avoid any misstep lost or shift on movement forces. I'll share more when I know more I have printed a full version but my reseller doesn't have um2 3 aluminium parts in stock so I'm waiting for other source arrival to start assembling it. @Gudo will post more about this soon. Also since the files are on my dropbox, if anyone wants to beta test, PM me with your email so I give you read access. Edit. At the moment I can’t test this, I have all printed, but my agenda is getting fill of stuff to test and work.
  17. Hi everyone My Ultimaker 2+ has filament still in the Bowden tube. I set print off and check it regularly but about half way through no more filament was extruding from the nozzle I quickly realized that the filament real had run out of PLA. I followed Ultimaker's instructions to remove the Bowden tube to try and gently pull out the remaining PLA but it was stuck what do I need to do in order to solve this issue and get rid of the rest. Do I need to just put a new material in and extrude the remaining blue PLA out the extruder nozzle? Thanks in advance! Harry
  18. Hello everyone, Recently I have been struggling to get my 3D printer resume it's print job. I don't how the filament got leaked and the hot end was filled with the lump of melted PLA when I returned to see if the print job finished a few weeks before. So I disassembled the hot end and cleaned up the leaked filament lump. But as I tried to reassemble the hot end again I just couldn't. The heating rod is also loose now and I cannot make it go all the way through. Also I am not being able to tighten the isolator nut. I tried to tighten it by heating the nozzle to the maximum temperature but still couldn't do it. Here are some images of the print head I took right now. Please can you guys help me come up with a solution to this. Really stressed putting all my efforts and still be not able to fix for past 2 weeks...
  19. So I recently got a hold of a used control board out of a UM2 printer. I’m working on a custom printer design, and I’d really like to use the board to control it; at least for now, so that I don’t have to dish out a bunch of cash for a new printer controller (eventually I’ll be using a Duet Maestro). The printer I’m building will be a CoreXY, not the typical Ultimaker geometry. Also, there will be no heated bed, and for now I plan to just drive the printer straight from a computer as I don’t have the SD reader or LCD. my question is: how can I go about changing the existing UM2 firmware to work for my project? Can I upload the standard Marlin build with the correct configuration.h for my setup, or is the pinout setup differently for the UM2 version of Marlin? Thank you I’m advanced!
  20. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  21. Not looking for an "extended" version just the standard 2 or 2+ working or not. If not working or needs work please PM me and explain whats wrong with the printer and the price your asking. Looking for a reasonable price, willing to buy right away. Will only pay thru paypal. EDIT: If this thread is still up, i am still looking so please PM me regardless.
  22. (Hat noch jemand Probleme seit Installation der neuesten Cura Version?) Zumindest seit (ungefähr) diesem Zeitpunkt zeigt sich bei meinem Ultimaker 2+ etwas seltsames. Mitten im Druck wird plötzlich kein Filament mehr extrudiert. Mittlerweile habe ich - das Filament gewechselt - neu gelevelt - Bowdenschlauch gesäubert - Coupler erneuert - andere Datei probiert - Düse erneuert Der Feeder ist stark genug eingestellt. Zumindest hinterlässt er Markierungen auf dem Filament. Er arbeitet ja auch korrekt, zumindest die erste halbe Stunde bis Stunde, dann "gräbt" er sich ins Filament, statt es weiter zu fördern. Woran kann das liegen? Das trat von einem auf den anderen Tag auf, wobei die einzige Änderung zu dem ungefähren Zeitpunkt die neue Curaversion war. Andererseits erklärt das nicht das Feeder"graben" oder. Help!
  23. I bought it several months ago and it has been well maintained. Used for very short time and has no defects. The quality of each products it prints are amazing and I am very satisfied with it. It comes everything with the original box. The printer is located at West Virginia, US. Looking for 1000USD or best offer.You are welcome to contact with me for any questions and concerns. Thank you so much!
  24. So the grommet in my Ultimaker 2 plus seems to have worn down and now I believe this has been causing a lot of prints with skipped layers and under extrusion. Where can I find a replacement part and what are the grommet’s dimensions?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!