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Found 329 results

  1. Bonjour, J'ai un bug avec l'écran de mon UM2+, l’écran de l'imprimante se fige et je n'ai plus aucun contrôle avec la "molette". Malgré tout l'impression va à son terme mais une fois terminé le plateau ne descend plus et la buse ne revient pas à sa place initiale, elle reste en contacte avec la pièce imprimé. Pareil quand je souhaite changer de bobine de matière, l'imprimante ainsi que l’écran se fige pendant le processus. Savez de quoi il s'agit ? un bug programme sûrement ? Merci Cura version 4.0 UM2+ version 3.3.0
  2. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  3. Howdy every one, I upgrade the UM2 firmware to Marlin 1.1.x version, so I could have access to BLtouch and some other extra features. The printer is working fine except for two things: The Hotend auto fan will not work, no matter what I do. (same issue as here : ) The controller leds behind the nob will not turn on. Is there anyone who have a fully working UM2 with BLtouch able to share the firmware files or help? Thank you in advance,
  4. Hallo Miteinander Ich habe ein kleines Problem, die Nachbearbeitung des Gcodes mit Pause at Heigth funktioniert nicht so wie gewollt. Habe alle drei Versionen einmal durchprobiert, bei einer hat er einen kurzen Stopp eingelegt, aber dann weiter in der Luft gedruckt. Also kann man sagen, das Pause at Height nicht funktioniert. Kann mir vielleicht jemand sagen was schief läuft oder ob es bei euch überhaut funktioniert? Getestet habe ich das ganze auf einem Ultimaker 2+ Mark 2 mir der Software vom @tinkergnome. Im Cura 4.2.1 Grüsse zpm3atlantis
  5. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  6. When the UM2+ retracts, there is a sound (a double beep), change speed of retractions and the pitch changes. What makes that sound, and can it be stopped or at least reduced? *edit Bondtech’s ultimaker 2 kit contains a vibration isolation between motor and chassis and the gearbox itself has vibration isolation foam. https://www.bondtech.se/en/product/qr-ultimaker-2-kit/ I guess this answers my question. If anyone who has one of these installed can confirm I would appreciate it. Thanks
  7. Hi recently I tried to update the firmware on my UM2+ by connecting my Laptop. I got into the menu and just pressed update and it all went fine and it said complete. But when I looked on the printer at the version it still said 3.3 and updated on "older date". Maybe the 3.3 is the newest firmware for the printer but I have troubles to find out what actually the newest firmware is. It isn't documented on the homepage or cure under printer. Do i have i problem updating or is everything ok and it is just not properly conveyed by the updater.
  8. On and off I've used Tinker FW in my UM2+ for about a year. On and off I've had a strange behavior as my printer sometimes pauses while printing and starts to retract filament with different speeds from time to time. Sometimes it doesn't retract the filament all the way out and then loads filament back in and continues to print. Sometimes it retracts the filament all the way out and thus can't load it back in and then starts to print without filament. Every time this has happened it continues to print, of course sometimes without having any filament. This has happened maybe 10-15 times over a one year period. Yesterday it happened again, with "full" speed it retracted the filament all the way out but I heard it so I was quickly there and put the filament back in and saw to it that it got loaded back. Then I noticed something else, it skipped a layer or two, see picture. This has puzzled me in the past. A few times I've had prints like this, unknowing of the reason. I have blamed the filament or the nozzle thinking it had clogged and loosened upp again after a while, but quite possibly it is this phenomena that is the culprit. I wish I could remember if the bed lowered a bit and if the head moved to a specific position, but i think it just stops where it is at and does its thing. I am currently on Tinker 19.03.1 but have had the same issues with 18.11.1 and 17.10.1 as well. And to be totally honest I cant to 100% rule out that it hasn't happened with original FW too. I really should have paid more attention to this but in the heat of the moment I get really upset thinking all kinds of nasty things. Then the next day it's business as usual and (almost) all is forgotten. I have only read about one other person having had this problem, are we really the only ones? Cus then it sounds more like a hardware error to me. Previously I have wondered if I'm causing this when I shift between using S3D, Cura, USB and SD, but since the last time I installed Tinker FW I have ONLY used Cura and have been printing exclusively from SD cards, I have not had my USB cable inserted into the printer since. After I installed Tinker I made a factory reset on the printer, as I always have. On a few occasions I have started the same print (gcode) again and it has printed correctly. Approximately 20 seconds after this particular print started again it was at a height of 52.20mm (according to info in display). I'm not very keen on trying this print again because I made some error with the model (so I wont be able to use it anyway) and my experience is that it will work when trying a second time. Plus its a 10hr print. Ror.gcode
  9. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  10. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  11. For some reason my Cura 4.1 shrinks the size of my printable area to 223mm X 223mm. It has also offset it to the left as seen in my picture. You can see the size of the print bed in grey. That box used to fill it and match the print bed. There are old files I can no longer print because they are out of the printable area. I know I can change the X and Y values in machine settings but when I do the box just shifts to the left and off the bed. I have tried un-installing and re-installing including wiping old perimeters and starting fresh. Any other thoughts on how to fix this issue would be appreciated.
  12. Bonjour, Depuis quelque temps, la première couche s'imprime de façon graduelle (ci-joint photo). un dégradé se forme toujours sur la partie inférieure. Un re-calibrage et une re-configuration usine n'ont pas suffi à régler le problème. Quels autres réglages dois-je procéder pour résoudre ce problème ? (je possède une Ultimaker 2+ et imprime avec du PLA) Merci pour vos retours.
  13. After the new "Lost in Space" series came out, I guess that I started having fond memory's of my child hood and decided to go create a toy I never had back then. If you are looking at the photo and wondering, yes, it is floating in mid air. The magnetic levitation system does work nicely. Unfortunately this all the higher it can fly, so making orbit is going to be a bit tricky. The model is 8" in diameter, made on my Ultimaker II+ using Matter Hacker build silver PLA and IC3D natural PLA. I built the CAD model using an old version of Pro-E. When I first started this project I was amazed that there is not a single correct geometry for the original Jupiter II. My model is based on the special effects models that had compound curvature on the main part of the upper hull, making it look like a part of a sphere. The full scale set model, however, had straight sided walls, as though it were part of a cone. I guess that the set model was just plywood wrapped around forms and the compound curvature was just to much. I have debated on painting the model to hide the seams and the printing artifacts. It is puttied, sanded smooth and polished. The putty I came up with is kind of interesting. I used 15 minute epoxy with milled fiber added and some silver paint. I worried if the paint would actual dry encased in the epoxy, but it did. After sanding the entire assembled model and polishing it the seams look acceptable, sort of like a full scale manufacturing seam, not that there was such a thing visible on the TV show. Fun blast from the past. Steven
  14. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  15. Hello everyone, I have recently started to use Octoprint on my ultimaker 2+ and I really love it. I have also like a lot the timelapse that is possible to create with the Octolapse plugin specially yhe famous one without head movement! Unfortunately I haven't found anyone sharing setting for the Ultimaker 2+ (open firmware) I was wondering if anyone had experience yet! Many thanks in advance! Emaunuele
  16. I updated my UM2+ with the latest Tinker firmware back in April and it has improved the machine no end. I've also been using Cura since then, getting to grips with new settings etc. However, I tried today to use S3D with my standard UM2 profile and I get an error saying the printer is trying to print outside the print area. I tried again on a more basic setting, get the same warning. I was going back to S3D to have some more control for hot end temperatures, so I tried in Cura by changing the firmware flavour from Ultimaker 2 to Marlin, sliced in Cura and then tried to print. Same error, printing outside the print area. Incidentally. I got the usual warning from the S3D sliced object that I was using the slicer to override the machine settings, but also got that for the Marlin slice in Cura. Is there something really obvious I have missed?
  17. HiHo Ihr Lieben Ich melde mich auch mal weider aus der Versenkung ^^ Ich weigere mich immer relativ lange eine neue Cura Version zu installieren, da ich dann immer ewig nach meinen Einstellungen suchen muss. Aber jetzt habe ich mich mal wieder durch gerungen zu aktualisieren von 3.6 auf 4.1. Jetzt suche ich mal wieder ein wenig und will was ausprobieren und vielleicht könnt Ihr mir schneller weiterhelfen und Tipps geben. Ich habe eine Komplexe Figur modelliert, um die Form etwas zu unterstützten will ich mit Ungleichmässiger Ausenhaut drucken (Fuzzi Skin). Doch die ganzen Bohrungen zum zusammensäten sollen nicht so gedruckt werden. Also wollte ich mit einer Mesh die Einstellungen punktuell ändern, das habe ich im alten Cura auch häufig gemacht. Ich wollte mal ein Testteil Drucken, doch ist stosse auf kleinere Probleme. Hier mal ein Bild zum erklären, die Sachen sind nicht schön Positioniert, ist nur zum Zeigen. Ist jetzt alles nicht so gut erkennbar was dargestellt wird, wenn man nicht weiss was es ist. Also Ganz aussen ist die Wand von meinem Objekt, in inneren habe ich um die Bohrungen herum einen Würfel platziert (eventuell wäre Später ein Zylinder besser) und im inneren des Würfels sind die beiden Bohrungen die ich einfach mal so schnell gemacht habe um auszuprobieren. Für das Gesamte Objekt habe ich ungleiche Aussenhaut aktiviert. Für den Würfel ist es Deaktiviert. Wie man auch links sehen kann. Das funktioniert auch für die Bohrung, die sind normal gedruckt, doch der Würfel hat jetzt 4 Wandlinien, aussen Normale und innen zwei ungleichmäßige. So jetzt kommt mein Problem, mir wäre es am liebsten wenn der Würfel gar nicht erst gedruckt werden würde, ich meinte, das hatte ich früher auch so. Aber hier wird jetzt auch noch eine Doppelwand gedruckt, was zu Fehlern führen könnte. Vielleicht habe ihr ja auch noch eine Bessere Idee 🙂 Grüsse zpm3atlantis
  18. I am running Cura 3.6 and it says that under material should be the Build Plate Temperature but I can't see it to change. It is checked in the Setting Visibility window but when you hover over it a window says it's hidden and why, but I don't know what it means. Any clarity would be appreciated. Oh and I know I can do it right on the UM2E+. See screen shots for message.
  19. When I try to change material on cura 4.1.0, I can't change it. The activate button can't be clicked on. It is not enabled material I try other materials. But it works on Ultimaker 3 On the older version (3.5.0), I could change the material on home screen but on cura 4.1.0 it's doesn't exist on home screen also It can't be changed on "Preferences" I tried to find the cura appdata files and tried to change it but it didn't work or I changed wrong things.
  20. Hi, I have a bit of a weird problem. I'm printing loads of the same container, and this went pretty well (for details on settings see below). However yesterday, suddenly the first layer started to get messed up. So I trief what I usually do, rigourously cleaning the build plate and nozzle, level/calibrate the buildplate and apply a thin layer of glue, again, first layer messed up, however, it;s only the left backside of the printer that messe up. The first layer on other parts of the buildplate are fine. Also see enclosed photo's. Just to be sure I printed the same model about 5 times without any trouble before. So I went through a cycle of cleaning and leveling the buildplate about 5 times but with the same result every time. Now I;m avoiding the left side of the printbed but that is not a viable solution. Also while printing on the other side I get more bleeds of fillament during travel. I'm at a loss what I should try. Any hints? Attachments shows the first layer after removing it fronm the print bed. left-under side was neer the front, right top side was near the left back. Thanks! Printer: Ultimaker 2+ Nozzle: 0.4 mm Layer height 0.2 mm
  21. Recently I had to clean the nozzle after a failed print. From that day on all my prints start at a Position that is shifted towards the back of the buildplate. As a consequence parts of the print fall over the rear edge of the buildplate. I have updated CURA to 4.1 and uploaded a new firmware to my Ultimaker 2+. This is a screenshot of the machine settings in CURA. I'd appreciate your help as I can't find anything helpful searching the Internet.
  22. Hi All, Using Cura 3.2.1 and Ultimaker 2 Extended. 0.8mm Olsen nozzle. I am having issues with screw holes in a printed PLA part. Where the screw holes are supposed to be, Cura switches to using circular printing pattern, but the gap between traces seems too wide and I am having issues with the adjacent traces not bonding to one another. I also had issues with infill not bonding to wall, but this was solved by adding 50% overlap. What setting should I adjust for the round holes? Please see picture. I think the same issue affects other part of the model. See second picture of a supporting tab, with screw hole and rounded outside. It's been turned to mush. Thank you in advance. -Tim
  23. Dear Ultimakers, I started using eSUN PLA Black filament, the recommended temperature on the filament saying 190-220C, I begun with 200C & print would not stick to the raft (after few layers above the raft the print would warp & detached from the raft), I increased printing temperature by 5C each test till reaching temperature 235C when everything turn OK with no faulty print & no show of over heating on the print itself. Is there something wrong as I went 15C above recommended temperature? (P.S. I always print PLA with no heated bed just blue tape & glue). I checked filament again if it is PLA+ but it says just PLA. I used before Ultimaker Metallic Silver PLA, PrimaValue black & white PLA Filament, Polymaker White filament all within 210 & below without a problem. And just before changing to eSUN I was printing with PrimaValue Black PLA Filament at 195C. Same model without a problem. Thank you in advance for your input.
  24. I am trying to switch to the tinker firmware and I have the new .hex file. When I connect the printer to the computer via usb, cura see the printer, but when I click upload firmware, it fails do to "communication error." I replaced the usb cable with a brand new one and it still fails to communicate. I can print from octoprint via usb with no problems, so I thought about updating the firmware from octoprint. My octoprint instance is running on a Raspberry Pi 3 B and I found the firmware updater plugin, but it requires avrdude or bossac and neither seems to make sense for my raspi (although I'm less sure what I'm doing on that side of things.) Any ideas on what might be wrong w/ the UM communication, or any other ways to update firmware (sd card?) Thanks!
  25. I am selling my Ultimaker 2+ for $1500 USD Its in great condition and has two aftermarket upgrades: A Bondtech Extruder, and a 3dSolex V3 Block. I will only ship to locations in the US. I can take pictures, or videos, if desired.
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