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Found 314 results

  1. Hi! I am using Ultimaker 2+ for prototyping components of machines. These parts are not geometrically complicated nor have fine details, but I want these prototypes to be more or less functional, so the priorities are: - Dimensional stability (the lowest warping) - good mechannical properties (specially critical is the layer adhesion). Up to now, I have used PLA, which has a good dimensional stability, but its mechannical behaviour is not so good, and ABS, which is quite stronger but only works well when the pieces doesn't have long and straight faces or walls (contraction issues: warping and interlayer cracks). I have also tried HIPS, whose contraction is a bit lower than ABS, but still warps quite a lot if the piece has a high infill and straight walls (besides, its adhesion to the build plate is very soft). I wanted to try nylong, but it requires managing humidity... According to your experience, which material is the best for functional prototyping? Thanks in advance
  2. Hi everyone, Well I recently had a nylon print pull up on me overnight and get caught on the nozzle. Needless to say, it gummed up the entire print head where I had to buy a heat gun to pull off all the gobs of nylon. Yeah, big old mess, I won't forget this one. In the process of cleaning out, I accidentally broke the heating cartridge wire where it connects to the metal cylinder, after the metal crimp. I'm assuming there isn't a way to put that back on there easily so does anyone have recommendations on a replacement or what to do? Thanks so much in advance.
  3. Bonjour, suite à des problèmes d'impressions (sous extrusion) dus à une buse de 0.4 abimée, j'ai changé de buse pour une 0.6. Et là je me suis dis super je vais gagner 50% de temps 😉 Ensuite j'ai vu que non 🤔 et j'ai lu plein de trucs sur le débit et la vitesse et j'ai compris aussi pas mal de chose. Mais du coup j'ai encore quelques questions car les multiples paramètres donnent beaucoup de combinaisons possibles. Ayant la chance d'avoir trois UM2+ à mon travail je voudrais en dédier une pour faire des impressions plus rapide et garder les autres pour faire des choses plus précises. Quel seraient les paramètres optimums (taille de buse, hauteur de couche, vitesses, température...) pour faire des impressions assez rapides (2 fois plus vite que le normal 0.15 en buse 0.4... serait top). Nous n'imprimons que du PLA. Merci d'avance
  4. Hello, I print with an UM2+ printer for 2 years and I have never tried to bond two different PC printed parts. Once I tried PLA parts to bond with Pattex glue and the result was not that satisfying. Is there anybody tried to bond two PC parts and succeeded?
  5. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  6. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  7. I am selling my Ultimaker 2+ for $1500 USD Its in great condition and has two aftermarket upgrades: A Bondtech Extruder, and a 3dSolex V3 Block. I will only ship to locations in the US. I can take pictures, or videos, if desired.
  8. Hello, during prints with a Ultimaker 2+ my nozzle keeps touching into the material, digging it's nose into the freshly printed material, warping the whole print. At the and of the prints the build plate doesn't seems to move down anymore, finishing at a certain height, just spinning around, melting PLA with its tip. Earlier prints with the same models didn't have the problem. So the problem seems to be related to the Z axis, calibration between prints doesn't't seems to help. Is there something I'm missing? Thanks in advance!
  9. Hi all I run a 3d print cluster at a Scottish art & design school. Because of the number of users we support (over 1000) I'm looking at a solution to attribute each print job to an authenticated user. With UM3s and S5s this is simple - Cura Connect API reports the owner of each print. I'm trying to find a way to do the same on our UM2s - each one has a Pi running Octoprint. It works great, but the only user that is reported is the generic Octoprint. I"m really hoping to glean logged-in user info from the client machine (WIndows and/or Mac). I'm not much of a programmer, but hoping someone can point me in the right direction. All best wishes Ali Napier
  10. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  11. I was able to successfully convert my UM2 to a UM2+ then a UM2+ Mark2 with magnetic docking second head. Now I have hacked in the UM3 print head !. cool now I have a Mark2 system with quick change UM3 print cores ! I totally destroyed the UM3 print head PCB lol. I had to remove all IC's and resistors form the board, then I "hot wired" the CORE connections to the main cable header lol. LED's do not currently work, but they will soon show the active extruder, only 1 color though. Capacitive Z sensor is non operational since I am using the Original UM2 electronics coupled with Mark2 firmware. I started off by going off the deep end buying the UM3 electronics etc. then I found out that all I needed to do was use everything I already had. at first I wanted the autoleveling, RGB core LED's etc. Anyway, this is very simple to do if you don't mind killing a UM3 print head 😉 and already have Mark2 operational 🙂 Here is a quick video showing the Mark2 Docking sequence adjusted to hit the nozzle shift lever bracket. Mark2 Print core swap Enoy, Dave
  12. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  13. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  14. Hallo Zusammen, Ich finde die Community super und hilfreich hier. Leider habe ich ein Problem, wo ich noch keine Antwort/Lösung in dem Forum gefunden habe. Ich habe ein UM2+ Occasion bekommen. Er druckt super gute Qualität. Es sieht aber so aus, als ob er ab und zu Teile des G-Codes überspringt. Es ertönt ein komischer Ton, dann bewegt sich der Druckkopf zu einer weiter unten im G-Code befindlichen Position. Dabei extrudiert er weiter, oftmals viel zuviel Material. Ich habe jetzt den Stromfluss des Z-Stepper mal auf 1000mA runter gedreht, da andere Leute damit ähnliche Probleme lösen konnten. Bis jetzt ohne erfolg. Kann man den Strom weiter runter auf 900mA setzen ohne Probleme? Der Fehler kommt zu unterschiedlichen Zeiten und Layer höhen und ist bis jetzt nicht reproduzierbar. Der Fehler tritt mit der Original Firmware wie auch mit der neuen Tinker Firmware 18.xx auf. Es wird über SD gedruckt. Mechanisch ist nichts zu bemängeln. Zwischendurch druckt er ganze Teile ohne Fehler. Ein Kollege hat das selbe Problem mit seinem UM2 und leider auch keine Lösung gefunden. Gibt es da draussen jemand der diese Symptome wieder erkennt und eine Lösung hat? Vielen Dank
  15. When slicing for an UM2+ I am unable to set the material temperature temperature. According to the tooltip in the settings, temperature controls are hidden by "auto temperature" or "enable nozzle temperature control". However I am not able to find "enable nozzle temperature control". Looks like bug to me - thoughts?
  16. Hi there, Maybe you can help me out? Whenever I load filament, the material is grinded slightly and when I want to start printing, it blocks and there's no filament .... The nozzle is not blocked. I have cleaned the feeder after every grinding incident and now I am lost ... No idea what to do. Should I adjust the spring screw? Replace the motor? Sure I am not the first one, so please let me know any possible solutions 🙂 Judith
  17. I updated my UM2+ with the latest Tinker firmware back in April and it has improved the machine no end. I've also been using Cura since then, getting to grips with new settings etc. However, I tried today to use S3D with my standard UM2 profile and I get an error saying the printer is trying to print outside the print area. I tried again on a more basic setting, get the same warning. I was going back to S3D to have some more control for hot end temperatures, so I tried in Cura by changing the firmware flavour from Ultimaker 2 to Marlin, sliced in Cura and then tried to print. Same error, printing outside the print area. Incidentally. I got the usual warning from the S3D sliced object that I was using the slicer to override the machine settings, but also got that for the Marlin slice in Cura. Is there something really obvious I have missed?
  18. Bonsoir à tous, Après avoir lancé une impression ce soir et attendu moins de 2h pour retourner verifier où en était le travail, nous nous sommes retrouvé avec la très mauvaise surprise de voir notre impression raté et même pire notre bloc complétement fichu par la matière qui a complétement imprégné le bloc Olson (fils capteurs et thermistance + buse comprise). Pourtant aucun problème n'était à signaler à part un décalage en hauteur (à peine 1mm) constaté par rapport au niveau réalisé juste avant de lancer l'impression. Cette mésaventure est-elle déjà arrivé à l'un de vous? Avez-vous des solutions à proposer? Nous avons pensé à démonté le bloc entier et faire chauffer le bloc dans un four pour enlever la matière. Merci de votre aide.
  19. Anyone here on the forum that already has ordered this part from Aliexpress? It's a dual heaterblock. See description Aliexpress: 3D printer Heaterblock Ultimaker 2 + UM2 Dual Heads Extruder Olsson block fans kit Nozzles 0.25--0.8mm HotEnd for 1.75/3mm. Link is here: https://bit.ly/2Y0rHvT Is it working good ? It is still for 2 days 40% cheaper in price.
  20. The neighborhood kids managed to find their way into my Mac and wreak all sorts of havoc and mayhem. Part of the fun they left behind is missing pre- and post- operations on my Cura prints. This means that I must home head and tray plus preheat manually as well as home head and tray plus cool down manually for each print. How can I fix this and erase the play of these destructive little gremlins? Les
  21. I am selling my Ultimaker 2+ Extended 3D printer. This printer is in beautiful condition and has not been used very much since we purchased it due to work commitments, hence the sale. This printer has been upgraded with a Olsson Ruby 0.4mm nozzle (£96) and the Extrusion Upgrade Kit (£430), in perfect working condition, with no visible damage and all LED lights are working. Comes in original box and packaging with an unused 'Universal Set' of 5 nozzles (all sizes), a levelling card and a sealed box of filament - so that you can start printing right away. The printer on time is 1371:24 and the printing time is 1012:30 material used is 1163m. Please feel free to contact me with any questions. I am in Scotland, UK (near Edinburgh) £1895.00 + postage or collection in person
  22. ITX case for 6,7 × 6,7 Zoll boards (Case 19cm x 19cm x 7,7cm LBH). Print in PETG, of course you can also take something else 🙂 . It took me a moment to get everything right. The rear panel also fits now. The kit consists of housing, the housing cover.(in DIFFERENT VERSIONS) The front panel, made of two parts, and the associated buttons with the back brackets for the PC switches. Front panel, two versions with magnet or with metal pin. Front On Off, open, closed LED cover. Front panel, buttons, magnets I glued with 2K glue. Below the board is a HDD-bag that can hold two 2.5 Zoll disks. Under the board is also an M2 slot. In addition two fan grille, which I covered with insect screen. There is nothing screwed except the motherboard. The rest is fixed with Neodym magnets. Also easy to open. I take a 35 watt CPU Since I work with electricity, I take no warranty Sata cables etc ... I have used the following parts: Ich habe folgend Teile benutzt: PC Reset Schalter Kable ATX Power-Reset HDD https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07BT3ZZ8X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thermaltake Engine 27 https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01M4J64GU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 LEICKE Netzteil 120 Watt 12V https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B006Z9TQE6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PicoPSU-150-XT 150W 12V DC-DC ATX Netzteil https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B0045IXKTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Neodym Magnete 10x2 mm https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B06X977K8L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Find on Thingiverse https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3409531 Ultimaker 2+ Resolution 0,2 Infill: 35% Print in PETG
  23. Hi there I'm quite new to 3d printing. Starting printing a shape and having real issue with the consistency of the extrusion. The printer prints a big blob on every layer which is very visible. Also as it prints, sometimes there a little gap in the material. I tried to print a curve shape on the top and it also started coming off leaving a big hole in my print. I'm using a 0.8 nozzle to print. Any recommendations? Thanks! Yod
  24. Bonjour, Je suis désolé de vous déranger mais je rencontre un problème pour lequel je n'ai pas vu de solution. Suite à un capteur de température défaillant, j'ai du faire quelques réparations sur mon ultimaker 2+ : Changement du capteur défaillant, changement du bowden (qui avait deux ans). Pour pouvoir passer le capteur, je me suis retrouvé dans l'obligation de desserrer légèrement les parois latérales. Or, depuis que je l'ai remise sous tension, le ventilateur se trouvant du coté gauche de la tête d'impression touche la paroi extérieur de l'imprimante, ce qui ne me semble bon ni pour la tête d'impression, ni pour la paroi. Auriez vous une explication et une solution à ce problème? En vous remerciant d'avance pour toutes aides apportées
  25. Hi After printing and installing everything, I came to a hold: my Ultimaker 2+ mainboard does not have a E2 connection for the additional stepper motor. (See picture) Am I the only one with that issue? Is there a solution to that? help would be highly appreciated thanks mranton Picture main board
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