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Found 250 results

  1. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220*223*205, and dual extrusion print area of 184*223*200. Video clips: Source files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting machanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  2. Hello guys, I want to run different tests on my UM2+, basically I want to be able to toy a bit with a head (heat block, nozzle, cartdridge, feeder, etc.) but I want to keep the abilities to print. So I was thinking of keeping my stock head, and building the custom made one next to it, on the available slot. To avoid the nozzle collision issue, I'll just have to install the nozzle of the head I want to use... But I do not know how to do it properly at a software level. The aim is to be as smooth as possible when using a head or the other. If you happen to know some documentation I did not find, I'll be glad to know ! For the moment the doc about dual head / dual extrusion are not giving me answers. And if you have any ideas how to do that... I'll be very happy to hear ! Thanks for the help and have a nice day 🙂
  3. Hi all! After a strange noise during printing the Forbidden Watchtower by Kjai I paused, resume and paused again and quit this print. Looks like it also cause a layer shift: Video_UM2(+)Noise_14seconds / google drive What's going on here? By the way I'm using UM2(+) printer, Simplify3D v4 and thinkerMarlin 17.10.1 as firmware 1: Bearing problem? 2: Lack of lubrication on XY the axles? It's tought to move with printer shutted down. 3: Slicer problem? In preview looks fine. Firmware problem? 4: Belt? Everything seems in place. 5: None of the above 😁
  4. latreides

    Extrusion issues UM2+

    I have been having nothing but trouble with my UM2+ recently. First, 9 times out of 10 the extruder will grind the filament when I change materials. I have to pull on the filament when its reversing to change materials (and then cut off the part that it started to grind away). Second, I am having what I can only surmise is under extrusion. The sides of the model sometimes look like this: This one is more pronounced (its not the common case) I also end up with weak infill and walls that do not touch (almost always). The end result are ugly prints that are very weak and brittle. Clearly the extruder is not up to the task of pushing the filament through the system (in either direction!). There are only a few things I could imagine would cause this: 1. The extruder is broken. (I have taken it apart and cleaned it many times, it looks to be in perfect working order) 2. The Bowden tube is causing a jam of some sort. (I can easily slide filament through the Bowden tube, with no effort, when I remove it from the machine. It is also a 3rd party "slick" Bowden tube.) 3. The PTFE coupler has some material in a "cold zone" that is making it more difficult to push the filament through. (I have replaced the PTFE coupler a few times because this seems to be the go-to solution to a problem like this, but I would think that ~100 hours of print time at 210c on a TFN coupler from the gr5store would not damage the coupler.) 4. The Nozzle is clogged. (The Nozzle is clean, I have done atomic pulls and I can hold it up to the light and see that its empty and the hole is free of obstructions) 5. The filament has gone bad. (I have tried many different filaments, new and old, from different manufacturers, and this problem persists. Also I try the same filament on my UM3 and it works perfectly.) 6. The Heater isn't heating it up to the temperature that the thermistor says it is so its trying to push filament out at too low of a temperature. (Not sure how to test this one without specialized equipment. I have manually set the temperature to 15c more than I normally print at, and while it helps just a little bit, its not enough to make a difference.) I did have a situation awhile back when trying to use a Magigoo sample. Nothing stuck to it and I ended up with a huge glob of melted filament stuck in every place it possible could be stuck in on the hot end. I cleaned this up as well as humanly possible, but there was filament everywhere, even in the holes in the Olsen block where the heater and thermistor go. Does anyone have any ideas? If it is the PTFE coupler again, why do they seem to go bad so often? What could cause this?
  5. I'm doing a research to find the factors affect on the dimensional accuracy of a printed object using UM2+. Please fill the survey form https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScsx3N3xSeG3846ATinxfT2qzLTQt7TIKPbO1Ii4t2MrhqGsg/viewform?usp=sf_link
  6. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  7. I recently upgraded my UMO with a modified version of the UM2 Extruder Upgrade Kit, and found the printhead below the TFM coupler to be leaking slightly: Is this acceptable? If not, how do I fix it?
  8. Hello everyone, I have recently started to use Octoprint on my ultimaker 2+ and I really love it. I have also like a lot the timelapse that is possible to create with the Octolapse plugin specially yhe famous one without head movement! Unfortunately I haven't found anyone sharing setting for the Ultimaker 2+ (open firmware) I was wondering if anyone had experience yet! Many thanks in advance! Emaunuele
  9. Hi All, I believe I have stumbled upon something new to me that I have not yet encountered. I remember all the way back to when the ultimaker 2 was first released. The start and end code in cura did not pull the material out of the extruder after completing a print and fed the extruder tip a larger amount of material when starting. I have recently upgraded the feeder to the Ultimaker 2+ extruder and adjusted the feedrate accordingly (it prints excellently). Now the issue that I am having is that everytime I do a print I have to manually prime the extruder by moving the material in the firmware because the material move is either too short or at the wrong feedrate. Is this something I have to add into start and/or end code in cura upon making the file to print? What kind of additions to the code do I need? I'd prefer the material to not be removed from the extruder tip on completion and to be able to adjust the amount that the material extrudes before starting the print. This way I can change materials after each print (if I need to) and clean the tip by pulling the material out when it is almost cool. Or leave the material in so that it ejects more previously melted and solidified material the next time I print. Thereby preventing clogs and material blending in between changes. Best Regards, MicheliDE
  10. Hi Everyone, I am selling my Ultimaker Extended 2 + in perfect condition with very little printing at 200 hours clocked on it. Looking for £1200 or €1350. Will ship free to anyone in EU. Comes with everything original including eccessories power block etc and ships in original box. Selling it because I have 8 other printers and never got around to using this Ultimaker. Cheers, Aaron
  11. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  12. Is there a way to print at higher temps than 260°C with original FW on a UM2+? I'm using Tinker FW today but I liked the original FW better but I needed to be able to print at 270°C.
  13. This was purchased for 3k very little use just want gone have receipt showin purchase price I’m very firm on price 1400 plus shipping from wa state it’s a steal 3609498998
  14. I already print with 1.75mm pla and I have a few spools of Makerbot flexible filament which prints at 120 Celsius. The problem we were having is that we cannot change the existing profile for tpu to take 1.75mm filament in cura.
  15. Hallo zusammen, ich weiß leider nicht, wie ich das richtig beschreiben soll.... daher ein Bild :-) Wie kann ich es (gerade bei größeren Flächen) verhindern, das Material (wie im Bild zu sehen) aufgebracht wird, das meiner Meinung nach nicht relevant ist und die Fläche nicht gerade verschönert? Besten Dank und Gruß aus NRW in die Gruppe, Heiko.
  16. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot 😃
  17. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    🙂Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine😃. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over😲. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. 🙏Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  18. Hi One of our Ultimaker 2+ printers has this problem. We have changed filaments, adjusted the feeder tension at all positions. We have replaced the original tubing with a new one, consisting of the same diameters, and even checked the glass plate with a thermonuclear, and the temperatures are consistent across the glass plate However the problem still persists, and we don't know what to do. It is occurring mainly towards the back of the print, and in the pictures it looks stringy and individual layers with gaps between them. But at the front everything looks fine, all nicely stuck together, with the proper consistency. This is only happening on 1 printer. Any help and ideas would be much appreciated. Thanks Greg
  19. Hello everyone ! I know the topic is dealt in somewhere on the internet and on the community but I am still a bit confused and I still do not really know the root cause (and probably causes) of the problem... Could you help me please ? Every 3/4 hours of printing, the hotend gets jammed, and the filament looks like this -> The jamming is provoked by the thick section in the middle of the picture. The ring at the left occurs only when the hotend cools (I have to cut the tip everytime I want to start a new print). I do not really care about the left ring, the real problem is the thick section in the middle, I cannot print anything at the moment. The heating block is stock, as well as the heating cartridge and the sensor. For the other parts, they were changed 300 hundreds printing hours ago : - steel coupler (http://3dsolex.com/product/steel-coupler-v2-for-um2/) - ptfe coupler (http://3dsolex.com/product/ptfe-coupler-um2/) - 0.4 nozzle (http://3dsolex.com/product/rsb-0-40mm-nozzle/) - bowden tube (http://3dsolex.com/product/bowden-tube-clips/) Does anyone has an idea ? Thank you !
  20. Hello everyone! I am making modifications in an Ultimaker 2+ in order to build a 3D Bioprinter. I need to remove completely the heated platform but when I do it, I get error messages. Also, I have to change the height of the printing platform since when I switch on the Ultimaker my extruder (it's modified and longer) hits the platform. This is happening before the calibration of the printing platform. I was thinking that I have to make some small changes in the software of the Ultimaker but I couldn't find the software. What do you suggest? Thanks, Andi
  21. jockspice

    Tinker Firmware and S3D - UM2+

    I updated my UM2+ with the latest Tinker firmware back in April and it has improved the machine no end. I've also been using Cura since then, getting to grips with new settings etc. However, I tried today to use S3D with my standard UM2 profile and I get an error saying the printer is trying to print outside the print area. I tried again on a more basic setting, get the same warning. I was going back to S3D to have some more control for hot end temperatures, so I tried in Cura by changing the firmware flavour from Ultimaker 2 to Marlin, sliced in Cura and then tried to print. Same error, printing outside the print area. Incidentally. I got the usual warning from the S3D sliced object that I was using the slicer to override the machine settings, but also got that for the Marlin slice in Cura. Is there something really obvious I have missed?
  22. Hi, this is our first post. Any help would be greatly appreciated. We are printing in PLA and on our ultimaker 2+. We are having problems where the printed material doesnt stick to the bed effectively. This only seems to happen to the centre of the bed. Any suggestions welcome. We have adapted the bed, changed nozzles, material etc and various other changes. Is this a common problem? Its almost as if the print nozzle moves around too quickly.
  23. I successfully printed V1 of my project today but when I came to print V2, the print started OK but then the filament feed stopped. On closer inspection it seems that the hot end is no longer very hot. When I select the maintenance option and set the nozzle temperature to 250 degC it reports that it's at temp but when I measure the nozzle with a temperature gun it's only about 30degC. Something has failed here but I don't know what. Can anyone advise please? It's an Ultimaker 2+
  24. I own two Ultimaker 2+ and have created a laser attachment for the print head and a control board plus scripts to expose PCBs with the Ultimaker. It's a small UM firmware mod (on basis of the tinker firmware) that give a "sync" signal on one of the extension ports of the Ultimaker mainboard and a Arduino based controller (Arduino Pro Micro, the quite small thingy) that receives the pixels via USB/serial connection (for example from a Raspberry Pi that's running OctoPrint in parallel) and "streams" them to the laser driver upon receiving the sync signal from the UM. Essentially the print head is moving with constant speed left-to-right and the laser is switched by the controller independently matching that speed. So the core idea is to use the mechanics of the Ultimaker 2, but aside of the sync signal not do any larger mods to it. Which even makes it a universal solution for any precise mechanic like that. I had done one try to get the pixel streaming into the firmware, but there is a conflict between the timer interrupts for motor control and the pixel streaming coming up. Possibly doable to untangle that, but that felt like a painful road so I decided for that external controller, simplifying the thing enormously. With that solution I can achieve results down to 3-4mil of resolution which is much better than what I could achieve with the regular film printing & exposure methods or toner transfer. See attached photos (thanks to Henner Zeller the creator of the LDgraphy laser exposure device for the excellent test pattern, https://github.com/hzeller/ldgraphy). Video of the exposure process: That for the background, now to the question that I have. Currently the creation of the G-Code for the printer and the "bitstream" file are plain Python scripts I have to call, transfer the files to the OctoPi, run my "bit streamer" and start OctoPi with the G-Code file. Pretty manual process. Now I would like to integrate all this into a OctoPrint plug-in to use OctoPi as a central UI. That would be much more transparent and comfortable and could also provide the calibration tools to adjust PCB position and focus height in a few clicks. Would anyone be interested to join in to develop and test this? P.S. the holder of the laser head attachment bases on the Mark 2 dual head magnetic plate, so it's easily attachable and removable.
  25. Hello everyone ! I have a little problem with one of my UM2+. I upgraded to official bondtech 200 hundreds hours of printing ago and I start to have this problem : It occured once and now it is impossible to print anything... The two black bodies are firmly tightened and I tried to add some masking tape to increase the diameter of the plastic part but it still gets snatched. Does anyone have an idea ? Thank you !
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