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Found 398 results

  1. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  2. I know that there are several threads on under-extrusion that I could attach my problem to but I also don't want to distract from other users problem - how similar their issue might be so pardon me for starting yet another thread on the topic of under-extrusion To begin - I have an Ultimaker 2+ and has had it for a couple of years - printing on and off. Lately I've been printing a lot and almost exclusively used PLA. I've been printing several things and my problem started as few layers experiencing what I consider under-extrusion. I've attached a single picture of this. A few layers into the print you'll see "holes" in the print but the print recovers. Subsequently the under-extrusion got worse and eventually my prints wasn't able to finish. What I observed was that the filament didn't flow as easily as it used to. When I start a print - once the printer starts pushing out filament it tends to stick to the nozzle whereas when things were OK it would feed it sufficiently fast so that filament would reach the glass plate and formed a nice cylinder before the actual print started. If I move forward with the print anyway - what I have observed is that the printer struggles with printing the brim (material sticks to the print nozzle). If I raise the nozzle temperature by 10 degree the printer is usually able to finish the first layer OK (I print the first layer very slowly) but when the 2nd and 3rd layer is printed problems starts and eventually the nozzle pulls the print from the glass plate and pulls it along the print path. So - here is what I've done. 1) I did change material to a different brand of PLA but that did not change anything. 2) I did search online and found suggestions to change the TFM coupler which I did. That didn't help either but I got suspicious that my spare coupler were bought in China so I ordered new ones from a US vendor. Still - no improvements. 3) I did take a look at my feeder - took it apart but everything looked OK and I have not had any problems feeding material to the printer. When I insert material it appear to be fed normal up through the tube to the print head - suggestion that the feeder is able to easily move material 4) I recently bought the Olsson Ruby Nozzle and has properly used it for ~20-30 hours. Never the less I changed it back to one of my old nozzle but that did not make any change either. I even tried a completely new nozzle and still no improvement. 5) I did try a different Olsson block as well but still - no improvement here either 6) Thinking this could be a problem with heating the filament I did try to measure the Olsson block with a Weber Grill thermometer. This did show a lower temperature than what the build-in sensor reported and also - the filament that did come out seemed a bit more sticky and solid that I think it were when things were OK. Thus - I ordered new sensor and new heater and replaced these. You properly guessed the result - same problem (as in no improvement) 7) Even when I feed material manually (heating up the nozzle and pushing filament directly into the printhead - I can't seem to get a decent material flow. 8 ) I have not made any change in Cura. The prints I been struggling with are prints that I've printed successfully before without any issue and without any change to any g-code. 9) I did do a factory reset of my Ultimaker 2+ printer but again - no difference in outcome. I have not replaced the Bowden tube because I don't think there is anything wrong with it. Material is fed without any problems, extracting material is also not a problem and experiment 7) above completely eliminate the bowden tube - which by the way looks fine. And pushing material through the tube manually is not a problem at all. No resistance is observed what so ever. Does anyone have any suggestions on what could be my problem and what experiment 9 should be - or even better what the solution to my problem is? Thanks in advance
  3. Hello everyone, I notice that I cannot print on my Ultimaker 2+ two times in row, it will always failed the second print by either printing the first layer then failed or cannot ... each time I have to remove the filament which is always stuck between bowden tube and the isolator and wait 1 hour or so for the printer to cool down. Gr5 Moderator mentioned an underextrusion issue which falls in my case I guess: I notice that sometimes the rear fan is not working at the beginning of the first print and then is always one, is it the normal behaviour ? Should I buy a new fan ? Is someone has the same issue has myself and what can I do to fix this ? My Printer : UM2+ My Firmware : _3.3.3
  4. After the first layer of a print, the extruder has some kind of offset and prints the next one displaced a few centimeters from where it should. Every new layer is displaced the same distance as I show you on this photo. After searching about this I tried to fix it by tightening the belts of the ultimaker and updating the firmware, but nothing works, why is this happening and how can I solve it? Thanks.
  5. I am selling my Ultimaker 2+, including: - all the original accessories - XTC-3D brush-on coating - UM 2+ Advanced 3D Printing Kit (2x0,4mm nozzle + 2 TFM coupler + 22x adhesion sheet + 1x door) - assorted fillament materials Great condition. Located in Portugal, shipping all over EU. Contact me with any questions. regards, Ana
  6. Hi! I'm aware that the title isn't very clear - but I'm not sure how to describe it - hence the "strange" 🙂 As you can see on the photo, my first layer shows these patterns. There is no problem with layer adhesion or whatsoever - the layer comes out flat and shiny, but with these patterns. Has anyone seen this before? Any idea how to fix this? Printed on an U2+ with U Silver metallic PLA. Standard settings for the material. thanks, Anton
  7. Hello, I am trying to print out a dumbel design with the handle being a sort of progressbar. so you have some empy spacing in between. The original print time was well over 8 hours. I managed to get it to 6. However i noticed while chanigng so many settings that part of my model is greyed out. Does this mean that it wont print this part? How can i solve this? I tried reverting the changes are repositioning the model but i cant seem to figure it out. To give you an idea of what my model looks like, finished, priting it vertically seemed most logical to me and seemed to work better than horizontally as it doesnt remove the words. but the only issue im having now is the handle as it leaves out the bars.. I also included my file if you want to look at it. Kindly help me out.. Thank you in advance! UM2_physicalisation Help.3mf
  8. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  9. Hi Guys, Have been trying to figure out why our printer keeps on printing inconsistently. The material used is PLA through a 0.4mm nozzle. Adhesion to the new Buildtak looks good as the first layer goes down well on the footprint of each part and the skirt - bed has been calibrated many times and I think this is good due to how well the first layer goes down. From the first layer onward is when the issues start but I can't see to figure out what or why it is doing this: The models are raised 3mm from the bed to try and prevent warping also Appreciate the help - bit of a newbie to Ultimaker printing...
  10. Hi, My UM2+ is having sudden shut down at various stages. 1. shut down when the head and plates are homing. 2. shut down when nozzle start heating up after the build plate has heating 3. shut down after nozzle and plate are hot and it start the print 4. shut down mid print. Sometimes when I unplug the power supply from the main and leave over night and plug it back the day after I can have successful print. What is causing this issue? And how can I fix it?
  11. Hey guys, I would like to share a lever action dual extrusion solution I came up with for Ultimaker 2+. The approach is based on the great effort everyone put into Mark2 and Ultimaker 3. The print head holds two hot ends, which are originally to be installed on standard UM2 head for 1.75 filament. The right nozzle move up and down for nozzle swapping. This compact dual print head can achieve single extrusion print area of 220x223x205, and dual extrusion print area of 202x223x200. Video clips: Files and instructions available at: https://github.com/yyh1002/DXU Credits: Lever lifting mechanism is inspired by Ultimaker 3. The firmware is modified based on Mark2 version of Tinkergnome firmware by @tinkergnome. CURA profiles are modified based on the Mark2 profiles by @tinkergnome and @foehnsturm. Used Mark2Tweaks plugin for CURA by Krys Lawrence.
  12. Hi. I have a UM2. I want to upgrade to UM2+. I can’t quite afford the expensive official upgrade kit , but I can see the parts are available individually for a fraction of the price online. My question is.. Is it possible to Upgrade one part at a time? I’m tempted to start with the motor & feeder and then save up a little more and then later in the year depending on affordability maybe upgrade the head and shafts. Eventually I,ll get the least important stuff like the spool holder and sticker My main concern is at what point do you update firmware. Do I have to update firmware of the printer for each part installed, I wonder how sensitive can it be? or Is it best to wait and install all in one go once everything is complete and ready to fully install? I suspect the motor and feeder are the most crucial parts on the upgrade and maybe this is the only time that the printer really needs the firmware upgrade. I suspect I’m most likely very wrong about this idea, but please let me know your answers and how you upgraded. Thanks. Much appreciated in any answer
  13. Hey there community! So in early 2017, I bought myself an Ultimaker 2 extended+. I had lots of cool projects accomplished thanks to this great printer. But the industry keeps evolving and recently I discovered for myself that on lower-end printers you can swap out stepper motor drivers on the motherboard. Then I found out that Trinamic stepper motor drivers can make printers virtually silent. That got me thinking about making my Ultimaker more ear-friendly because I currently live in a tiny 1 room flat and have the ability to add more stuff to it. Had a look around and BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo caught my eye https://www.biqu.equipment/collections/skr-series/products/btt-skr-v1-4-skr-v1-4-pro The description of this mainboard says that it supports Ultimaker printers but not much else. That got me wondering if somebody out there already done something like this. I was not able to find anything about replacing the UM2+ main board on the internet. No videos, no articles, nothing. The only things I was able to find are a few people that showcase dual nozzle mods on UM2 machines with very little info on how they pulled it off. So my questions are: Is it even possible or worth it to replace the UM2+ mainboard for an SKR 1.4? Why has nobody done it yet? Is it because people don't want to tinker with expensive printers like this? Is there some sort of guide on how to do it?
  14. My UM2+ (UM2 w/ Extrusion Upgrade Kit) recently started having print quality problems especially on the first layer. After first thinking it was a leveling / distance issue and re-leveling the ben many times with no success, I started to look for other answers. Reading through posts here and other articles, I believe it is under extruding but looking for confirmation and ideas for fixes. After a failed print, it looks like the feeder is grinding the filament so assumed that the problem was on the hot end. I've tried everything recommended, cleaned head using the atomic method, removing the head and soaking in acetone, I'm getting clean pulls from the atomic method at this point (it wasn't bad to begin with). I've even opened up and cleaned the feeder. Went back into CURA and deleted the app configurations folder to ensure that there weren't modifications to the default profile. Adjusted nozzle temps to see if that impacted flow (195-210) Still having the problem... Currently printing using CURA's generic PLA profile, .4mm nozzle, with Amazon Basics 2.85mm Dark Gray PLA. I've had many successful prints with this combo (same spool) before this started happening I've attached a couple of pictures of the first layer issues. Thanks in advance for your insights and suggestions!
  15. Good night, I am having this error in pieces, only in one part of the bed. I understand that it may be a leveling error. But I already leveled it several times. What else can you think of that could be? It is only the first layer. I have rotated the piece 45 degrees the piece and discovered that it is only in that point of the bed. Thx so much.
  16. My printer is making a very loud noise when i am staring a print. Noise does not occur when: - Bed raising - Bed lowering - Home head Noise does occur when: - Printer is heated up, output the first plastic and move towards the starting point of the print. Another problem that also occur somethimes is that the heated bed is not very good calibrated anymore after the loud noise. But i am not sure about this problem, if it is the case after my loud noise or it can be just some adhesion problem that occured at the same time. I have placed a video of the sound on youtube: https://youtu.be/gOtlLcv7vpU
  17. Hi, I have an Ultimaker 2+ and have been printing PLA for the last couple of months with no problems. I recently changed to PEG (ICE Brand) and I printed a couple of parts no problem. Once I started printed my third object (see attached) the printer stopped during the print for no reason. I have tried printing this object at least 10 times and the printer stops at random points during each print (normally on the second layer but always on the border of the object for some reason? I have tried to the following to troubleshoot the problem but with no success: 1. Updated to Cura 4.6 (No success) Went back to Cura 4.5 (no success) 2. Updated firmware for the machine. 3. Printing over USB (with cable provided with machine). Tried printing with my PC and Laptop (Windows 10) but did not fix. 4. Changed gCode from Marlin to ReRap and back again (ReRap got to lasted a bit longer but stopped at layer 3) 5. Did a factory reset of the machine (did not fix problem) 6. Changed the material to ABS in the materials settings thinking that it could be a temperature/over heating problem? No joy. 7. I drew the object in TinkerCad first and then in SolidWorks just to see if it was a bad .stl file but the print failed with both drawing platforms. Update: I saved the Solidworks file in 3MF format and switched back to PLA. The print lasted longer than any other time but still stopped about 2.5 hours in. Next step is to use an SD card. The issue first started happening when I aborted the print the first time I tried to print it did it because I noticed a design error in the drawing file and wanted to redo it. Have people had similar issues? Would love to get back to reliable printing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy.
  18. After ca 100 3D objects the filament extrusion slowed down. The transport at the other side of the tube is faster, as a result, the tube goes off, printing is discontinued. This is getting harder, elevated temperature did not help (Ultimaker 2+, transparent PLA)
  19. Hi, I have an Ultimaker 2+ and have been printing PLA for the last couple of months with no problems. I recently changed to PEG (ICE Brand) and I printed a couple of parts no problem. Once I started printed my third object (see attached) the printer stopped during the print for no reason. I have tried printing this object at least 10 times and the printer stops at random points during each print (normally on the second layer but always on the border of the object for some reason? I have tried to the following to troubleshoot the problem but with no success: 1. Updated to Cura 4.6 (No success) Went back to Cura 4.5 (no success) 2. Updated firmware for the machine. 3. Printing over USB (with cable provided with machine). Tried printing with my PC and Laptop (Windows 10) but did not fix. 4. Changed gCode from Marlin to ReRap and back again (ReRap got to lasted a bit longer but stopped at layer 3) 5. Did a factory reset of the machine (did not fix problem) 6. Changed the material to ABS in the materials settings thinking that it could be a temperature/over heating problem? No joy. 7. I drew the object in TinkerCad first and then in SolidWorks just to see if it was a bad .stl file but the print failed with both drawing platforms. My next step is to print the object with PLA again and see if it goes through the full print. The issue first started happening when I aborted the print the first time I tried to print it did it because I noticed a design error in the drawing file and wanted to redo it. Have people had similar issues? Would love to get back to reliable printing. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Andy.
  20. Hello all - I've been happily printing stuff for a while now and wanted to print some larger things so swapped the 0.4mm nozzle for a new 0.8mm one. And whilst I expected the print quality to suffer a little, I didn't expect it to dive off a cliff and leave the building. It seems as though the nozzle is over-extruding or over running and pushing the outer wall which then frills out and causes a ridge which is higher than the next layer resulting in a progressively worse clash between the nozzle and part. The only other thing that has changed in my process is the version of Cura (now 4.6) - I've tried resetting all of the profile tweaks I've made over the months in case something I've set has caused it - but with no change. I've also tried a range of temperatures and initial layer heights. Noting seems to fix the problem. So, has anyone seen this / have any suggestions? Cheers
  21. I am selling my Ultimaker 2+. The printer includes all the original accessories and packaging. It has been rarely used since I bought it new. I live in south west England if you want to collect. Price is £1,400 plus shipping contact me with any questions. regards, Jon
  22. Bonjour tout le monde ! Depuis plusieurs semaines et de façon aléatoire je rencontre un problème (bug ?!) sur mon UM2 flashée Marlin. Lors d'un lancement d'un print d'une durée au delà de 2h30 il m'arrive de temps en temps de me retrouver avec ce message d'erreur, la buse stoppée sur la pièce. Il me suffit de la redémarrer et tout repart comme si de rien n'était. Cela arrive toujours après une durée de plus de 2h de print. Le message étant ERROR - STOPPED Go to ultimaker.com/support Mais aucune information indiquant qu'il s'agit d'un capteur ou autre ? Merci pour vos tuyaux et votre aide précieuse.
  23. Ich habe das noch mal separat reingestellt. Ultimaker 2 + Die Geschwindigkeit ist auf 100mm/sek gesetzt. Ich habe schon die Achsen neu gespannt und ausgerichtet. Alles geölt... Aber diese Geräusche, das schnarren bleibt. Jemand eine Idee woher das kommt? VG Jens
  24. Help, I have a UM2, now a UM2+ thanks to the Ultimaker upgrade kit. Still relatively new to the kit (borrowed from work during lock down. Have been using 0.4mm nozzle okay with PTA and switched to Filamentive rPETG to do the Prusa RC3 shields. Okay for a few days but now I (think I have a clogged nozzle): - slow / thin extrusion, cannot lay down enough material. I have tried to push material though and no luck and even switch back to PLA but that now cannot go through the nozzle. I do not have a fine enough needle to try to fix it so I tried to change the nozzle. - Nozzle will loosen okay but it does not come down very far and will not undone with spanner, socket attachment or pliers. - I'm doing this hot so material sticking should not be a problem. What do you suggest (whilst I order thin needles on Amazon)? - I wonder if I have somehow stripped the threads ( but should still come off) Richard
  25. Hi, Like most Universities, we have pooled our 3D printing resources and are producing PPE items. One of the Ulimakers that has come from a different department and it is behaving a little oddly. We are printing a shield design that needs the full bed of the Ultimaker and one one printer, it prints about 15mm forward in the Y-direction. This results in part of the design being flattened (at the extremity of the part) which is not a huge problem but occasionally we are seeing a layer shift. Amongst the printers, we are running 2 UM2+ and 3 UM2ex machines and they are all sharing the same G-Code. The rest of the printers produce identical prints that are correctly centred on the plate. I have performed a factory reset on the machine and there is no visible difference between the printers. I have attached an image of the model printing in the correct and incorrect positions. Any idea what could cause this? Yours, Carl
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