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Found 229 results

  1. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  2. Jeremi

    Breakin Block game in UM2+

    HAHA I was doing something with my shipwheel knob(not gonna tell you what XD) when I looked at the screen and I saw the block game that you have to move sideways with a ball to break the block!! nice easter egg!
  3. Hello. For as long as I've had my printer it's had trouble updating firmware. Recently it seems to say it's updating fine, but I wouldn't know because there is no way to check the current version nor the installed version (I seriously don't understand why that's not available anywhere). Either way I'm pretty sure it's stuck on a very old version considering its history of failing to update. I think this has resulted in an issue, but I don't know. When a print finished by any means, the bed stays at the same level. This would be a small annoyance if it didn't mean when I stopped in on an early layer to improve the beginning of the print, when the nozzle homes it rams itself against the back left clip for the bed, which is nothing but destructive to do. Thankfully it's not damaged anything but there's a definite clunk sometimes when it does it. This could be some other issue, but I'm going to guess it's the firmware. Either way I want to be able to sort the firmware. P.S. Any tips on avoiding the nozzle pushing tall thin prints about as it prints on them? Thanks.
  4. fntsmn

    Skulpt Thibra3D

    This year I worked for different months to create and improve Skulpt from Thibra3D, was a lot of fun and I think is something different on the market. I will share with all of you my experience and suggestion to be able to have a great print with it. In few words Skulpt how is name suggest is a filament that you can 3D print and apply small or big changes at the printed model just heating up the surface and using tools that are commonly used for sculpting or even only a screwdriver. This was one of my first test with the material a pumpkin, unfortunatly the print didn't went that well but is skulpt so was easy to fix it (the material was still in a experimental stage) I could made a better job with fixing the shape but I was still impressed on what could be done with the material. My second test was printing something low poly and sculpt it to become high poly with a lot of details. I decided to download and print this low poly fox I started to be really impressed on what I was able to do with this filaments and understand a bit better what you can do and what is better avoid with it. Example with the Fox the supports work out really well and they come out really easily and you can smooth the surface super easily, you will never be able to see any imperfection on the surface that usually supports materials leave, one small disadvantage is that is tricky to print for small details, because the material like to keep the heat, but at the same time this details are super easy to fix after the print is done. Now that I was more confident with my settings and skills I decide to print Groot Bust Another fantastic print! Support material was great I increased the detail, smoothed the surface and then Painted without any need of sanding the surface,you will never see the layers of printing and when the model cool down it become really solid and doesn't not feel like a 3d printed object. At this point the material was really stable and working perfectly so we proceed on play more with the color and just finalize the material to make it ready for the market so I decide to make a big and long print on my Ultimaker 3. I decided to print my head, the print took around 70 hours to finish and I used the following settings: Extrusion Multiplier: 1.21 Retraction Distance: 0 mm Layer Height: 0.2 Top Layers: 15 Bottom Layers: 5 Outline: 7 Infill: 50% Internal Fill Pattern: Grid Brim: 35 Outlines Extruder Temp.: 205 Heated bed: 60° only for the first layer then 45° Fan Speed: 100% Speed: 50 mm/s The spools that I used for this print wasn't the final product but we was still playing with the color this is why you can see some inconsistency. After I removed all the supports I started to increase and add all the hairs details. To add details is pretty easy you can use 3 main way: - Hairdryer : Take a bit of time to make the material soft but you avoid to over heat it and maybe cause some small bubbles on the surface - Heat gun: Take few second and you will be able to sculpt the material but be careful to don't over heat the surface too much - Hot water: this method is great but make it more difficult to localize the heat in only one part of the model and can take a good amount of time before you can sculpt the model. I personally really liked work on this project at work! You can check too this short video that I made to give more information about this filament. I'm happy to reply to any question about this Filaments! I will try to be active on this post.
  5. Factory File: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rqu8jwuTrEMkgxxIzwpGQ24KbCo3pdC-/view?usp=sharing G-Code: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NVilEw1ACfKB-2LAGd5i8q9id3Eua7Os/view?usp=sharing Bottom layers and infill print fine. Only issue is the top layer(s) and walls. I've legit completely tore apart the UM2+ and rebuilt it because it was in very bad shape at the time. After MANY calibration prints and babystep adjustments I figured it was time to tighten the long and short belts because nothing helped. The cubes are arranged as oldest on the left, newest on the right. The newest cubes measure ~19.8x~19.7x~20.02 The longer calibration piece came out ~100.2x~99.89x~50. The only thing left to fix is this under extrusion. What can I do to correct this? I have followed this guide: https://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide My prints were significantly worse before doing this. Not only were my axis rods misaligned, so was the extruder. Unfortunately it's not perfect yet. Build plate is level. Short belts are both tight & have nearly the same tension. Long belts are tight enough that they vibrate like a guitar string and you can't *easily* force them to touch the belt above/below it https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:195604 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 (underside view) The 3 cubes on the right are the newest. Bottom layers seem to infill correctly. my axis steps/mm are: X = 80.21, Y = 80.29, Z = 200, E = 369 (Tinker Firmware) I printed most of these at ~30 mm/s with a 70 degree bed and 190 degree extruder temp (PLA) with the first layer printing at about 5 mm/s I don't know if under extrusion is the problem though. I followed this guide https://mattshub.com/2017/04/19/extruder-calibration/ my filament is 2.87 in s3d and my extrusion width is .48mm.. it printed .48mm thick. Extrusion multiplier of 1.00. Here are some more printer woes. This took 8 hours and yet it's not acceptable. Here are some videos of it printing, it doesn't start to mess up until after the first layer! https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a9k6IDWHJPnn_woi83n0Sekac0ppBE8l https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tL-LXsYs9pjOzOCy22wGIrTcXgPUk7io This is also 100% infill (rectilinear).. Mind you the first 2-3 layers come out fine and then its downhill and gradually gets worse the longer the print goes
  6. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  7. After printing with my Ultimaker 2+ for over two years, I started having issues with the material getting stuck in the coupler. I pulled it out and looked at it. Sure enough it had some burn marks and some warping. Went online and all I could find were PTFE couplers. I bought one, still have issues. I cant find TFM couplers to purchase. Can someone point me to a site that sells them? hopefully by themselves without 200 dollars worth of extra parts I don't need! 😄
  8. LeoDude

    eSUN PLA Filament

    Dear Ultimakers, I started using eSUN PLA Black filament, the recommended temperature on the filament saying 190-220C, I begun with 200C & print would not stick to the raft (after few layers above the raft the print would warp & detached from the raft), I increased printing temperature by 5C each test till reaching temperature 235C when everything turn OK with no faulty print & no show of over heating on the print itself. Is there something wrong as I went 15C above recommended temperature? (P.S. I always print PLA with no heated bed just blue tape & glue). I checked filament again if it is PLA+ but it says just PLA. I used before Ultimaker Metallic Silver PLA, PrimaValue black & white PLA Filament, Polymaker White filament all within 210 & below without a problem. And just before changing to eSUN I was printing with PrimaValue Black PLA Filament at 195C. Same model without a problem. Thank you in advance for your input.
  9. Hello! I am struggling to get a consistent quality of prints in Willowflex on my UM2+. Each print (below) has been printed with the same settings, which generally follow the Willowflex recommendations but some prints work and others don't. I am hoping someone can help diagnose the problem? Print 1: printed at 6pm Print 2: printed approx half an hour later around 6.30pm Print 3: printed the following morning around 9.30am Print 4: printed approx 2.5hrs later at 12pm - similar result to print 2 Print 5: printed straight after at around 12.30pm - again similar result to print 2 Does anyone have any idea what might be causing the problem? Thanks in advance! PS. These are the Cura settings I am using: Material: PLA (Even though it is Willowflex, not PLA) Nozzle: 0.4mm (My printer is fitted with a Ruby Olsson nozzle) Layer height:0.1 Initial layer height: 2.7 Wall thickness: 0.8 Top/bottom thickness: 0.8 Infill density: 20% Enable retraction: (yes) Retraction speed: 45mm/s (Willowflex recommends 100mm/s but the U2+ only allows me to go to 45mm/s) Retration distance: 6.8mm Print speed: 30mm/s Infill speed: 30mm/s Wall speed: 30mm/s Outer wall speed: 30mm/s Inner wall speed: 30mm/s Top/bottom speed: 30mm/s Initial layer speed: 30mm/s Travel speed: 115mm/s Enable print cooling: yes Fan speed: 100% Regular fan speed: 100% Initial fan speed 0% Regular fan speed at height: 0.27mm Regular fan speed at layer: 2 Minimum layer time: 10s Lift head: yes Generate support: no Build plate adhesion: Brim 8.0mm Tension on back of feeder: one small notch down from the top Nozzle temperature: 185C Build plate temp: set to 0C but usually reads at around 30C Material flow 170% I also apply glue stick to the print bed to help with adhesion.
  10. jockspice

    Tinker Firmware and S3D - UM2+

    I updated my UM2+ with the latest Tinker firmware back in April and it has improved the machine no end. I've also been using Cura since then, getting to grips with new settings etc. However, I tried today to use S3D with my standard UM2 profile and I get an error saying the printer is trying to print outside the print area. I tried again on a more basic setting, get the same warning. I was going back to S3D to have some more control for hot end temperatures, so I tried in Cura by changing the firmware flavour from Ultimaker 2 to Marlin, sliced in Cura and then tried to print. Same error, printing outside the print area. Incidentally. I got the usual warning from the S3D sliced object that I was using the slicer to override the machine settings, but also got that for the Marlin slice in Cura. Is there something really obvious I have missed?
  11. zpm3atlantis

    Probleme mit Rubin Nozzle

    Hi Ho Ihr lieben Habe schon lange nichts mehr geschrieben, deswegen muss es mal wieder sein. Erstmal zur Story: Ich habe seit einiger zeit Probleme mit unter Extrusion bzw. mit schwankender Extrusion bei meinem normalen UM2+. Habe lange rum probiert und Fehlerquelle für Fehlerquelle ausgeschlossen. Bis nichts mehr übrig war, da habe ich einfach mal von meiner 0.4mm Rubin Nozzel auf eine normale Messing Nozzel gewechselt. Und siehe da, Problem gelöst. Ich war sehr erstaunt da ja eigentlich die Rubin Nozzel aus perfekte Nozzel verkauft wird. Hier noch zum anschauen, leider diesmal keine Hochauflösenden Bilder, tut mir leid. Links das Teil mit der Rubin Nozzel, dieses Teil konnte ich auch später einfach in der Hand zerdrücken. Das rechte Teil mit der normalen Nozzel, sauber gedruckt und auch stabil. Die Druckeinstellungen waren absolut die Selben. Die Rubin Nozzel habe ich natürlich mehrfach gereinigt und ausprobiert, hatte aber alles keinen erfolg. Das einzige was ich mir noch vorstellen kann ist, das sich Ablagerungen im Rubin gebildet haben die nicht weg gehen, weder per Pull noch per Diechlormethan. Dann könnnte es noch sein, dass der Rubin sich verformt hat. Habt ihr schon solche Erfahrungen gemacht? Denn ich bin jetzt etwas enttäuscht, so teuer und jetzt werfe ich sie doch wieder weg. Grüsse zpm3atlantis
  12. zpm3atlantis

    CPE und CPE+ Haftung

    Hi HO Habe leider noch was zum Fragen ^^ Ich versuche schon seit einer weile mit CPE und CPE+ zu drucken, bekomme dieses aber nicht gleichmäßig zum haften. Habe ich schon mehrfach gedruckt einfach auf die Glasplatte. Ging manchmal super bei CPE, hatte super Haftung, sogar mehr als das Glas an sich selber, wenn ihr versteht ^^ Aber dann haftete es wiederum überhaupt nicht. Da ich nicht weitere Glasplatten opfern will suchte ich nach anderen wegen die eine zuverlässige Haftung bieten. Bluetape: geht gar nicht Adhesion Sheets von Ultimaker: Haftet so gut, dass man es nicht los bekommt Klebestift: Geht auch nicht, den ich eh nie benutzte aber hier mal benutzt habe geht auch nicht 😕 Habt ihr noch gute Tipps für dieses Material. Da es von Ultimaker ist habe ich erwartet: Reinhängen und fertig ^^ Manchmal bin ich halt auch gerne Faul. Grüsse zpm3altantis
  13. oshlibrary

    Tension Problems UM2+

    First time we loaded filament, it started grinding. Checked tension setting which we noticed was all the way to the top. We can't get it to move down to the middle. Turned screw and nothing happens. Any suggestions. We just got the printer and are newbies!
  14. Closes the space of your Ultimaker. Thus, constant temperature conditions can be achieved. These are especially important when using ABS material. It also prevents the material from cooling too quickly and minimizes the warping effect. The handling is very simple. Open the locks with the two knobs and pull the door upwards.
  15. Bonjour, je vends mon Ultimaker 2 optimisé. L’imprimante est en parfait état de marche. Je m’en sépare car j’ai acheté une Ultimaker 3 à double extrusion et je n’ai pas besoin de 2 imprimantes 3D. Ultimaker est l’une des marques d’imprimante 3D les plus populaire du monde. L’imprimante 3D que je vous propose est open source, donc elle est facilement modifiable et réparable. Elle a un plateau chauffant et un volume d’impression de 223 x 223 x 205 mm. Le lot comprend: -L’Ultimaker 2 acheté en 2014 (2377 euros) -Le capot filtrant Ultimaker 2 avec filtre à particule (prix d’achat 369 euros). C’est un capot en plexiglass avec porte et filtre à particule HEPA. Très pratique pour garder l’imprimante sans poussières, pour imprimer des plastiques techniques et pour economiser de l’électricité. -Un adaptateur pour changer la taille des buses l’Olsson block v3 matchless avec buses (0,25mm; 0,4mm; 0,6mm; 1mm)(192 euros) -Une nouvelle résistance de chauffage plus puissante pour le bloc d’impression 35 W qui sert à chauffer le filament plus vite. -Un nouveau Feeder professionnel Bondtech ultra performant acheté en 2017 (203 euros). Le feeder est le moteur qui pousse le filament. -le carton d’origine. Tous ces éléments sont installés sur l’imprimante et ils sont opérationnels. -Possibilité de récupérer les pièces d’origine si vous le souhaitez (ventilateur, feeder, etc) Prix d’achat initial total: 3141 euros Mon prix de vente: 1890 EUROS Prix légèrement négociable. J’ai changé récemment des pièces d’usures que je ne compte pas dans le prix d’achat initial (le tube Bowden, les courroies, les ventilateurs latéraux, les pièces plastiques du bloc d’impression, le coupler isolant il y a quelques semaines). Cette imprimante est donc encore plus performante que quand je l’ai acheté. Livraison dans toute l'union européenne. Ristourne de 40 euros si vente en main propre sur Paris (Montmartre, metro Jules Joffrin). Je suis designer 3D/formateur et je peux vous former sur la machine si vous êtes débutant. (https://www.bits-to-parts.com/formations) Si vous avez des questions, je suis à votre disposition. Je suis sérieux. Si vous l’êtes aussi, je vous donnerai mon numéro de portable pour pouvoir communiquer plus simplement. À bientôt, Nicolas Grimmer
  16. Hi, I sell my customised Ultimaker 2. The 3d printer works perfectly. I bought an Ultimaker 3 so I don’t need the UM2 anymore. The offer includes: -The printer Ultimaker 2 bought in 2014 (2377 euros). -An Olsson block Matchless v3 to change the nozzle size with 8 nozzles (0,25mm; 0,4mm; 0,6mm; 1mm)(192 euros). -A new printhead heater (35W) to print faster. -A professional feeder Bondtech. The best upgrade possible for an UM2. Less noisy, no grinding and under-extrusion anymore. It is a must have. (bought in 2017 for 203 euros). -A Plexiglas enclosure with door and HEPA micro-particule filter (369 euros). -The original box. -An extra coupler (the plastic part that isolate the printhead from the bowden tube) All the parts are assembled on the machine and are fully functional. I changed a few parts (bowden tube, fan mount, isolator, rubber bands) so the printer is in great shape. The price I paid for the whole pack: 3141 euros My price: 1890 euros (shipping not included) 40 euros discount if you come pick it up at my place (downtown Paris, France) Shipping in the European Union only. I would be happy to help if you have any questions. Nicolas Grimmer
  17. Ok, I'll try to stay calm. I just spend €500 on an UM2 to 2+ upgrade, installed the latest Cura, put in a roll of official UM ABS and using the recommended settings. Frankly I bought this machine to print. Not to tinker endlessly with hundreds of settings. But I'll give it another try after 2 weeks of failing to print decently. I made a front/ top enclosure to keep the warmth in. I tried printing cooler and I get get poor layer adhesesion. This print is already way too weak for ABS. I think printing hotter may make support removal even more difficult. Can someone please tell me what I am doing wrong here? I'd be much obliged. Thanks, Maarten
  18. Hey all, So we've been attempting to print recently on our Ultimaker 2+, with PLA, and we've had many issues. I've attached images of the latest print. As you can see, the initial layer quality is very poor. I had changed the initial layer height from 0.27mm to 0.2mm and this improved it from previous iterations but is still not great. We already use glue to stick all of our prints down. This could all be due to the nozzle we're using as we switched from a brass to a steel nozzle, both 0.4mm. But why would this cause everything to go haywire? Additionally the quality of the print itself is pretty bad. There's a lot of hairy parts where some of the hairs are 0.7mm and some of them are very very fine - all from a 0.4mm nozzle. Parts of the geometry of the print didn't print properly either. Any ideas what could be causing this kind of behavior? We've printed a lot over the past few months but the reliability of the printer has been getting worse and worse. We've also had issues printing with ABS. Nothing we try seems to get ABS to print well. It always cracks in multiple places, might start randomly producing spaghetti or just completely clogs up the nozzle. We've tried maybe 6 or 7 prints with ABS since we got the printer last year and we've never managed to get it working. We use the default settings in Cura most of the time for both PLA and ABS, though I've adjusted the temperature of the bed in the past to get better adhesion for the ABS - still no success though. Any suggestions would be great. Many thanks.
  19. I'm selling my UM 2+. It has low hours of use and is in like new condition. It prints with the quality and consistency you expect from Ultimaker. The only upgrades are an extra extended spool holder for wider filament spools and some TPU slip on feet. The printer includes all the original accessories and packaging. It will also include the Ultimaker Advanced Printer Kit which includes 2 0.4 mm nozzles, 2 TFM couplers, adhesion sheets and the Ultimaker 2+ door enclosure. Price is $1,600 plus shipping from AZ. US destinations only. PM me with any questions. Thanks, .. Joe
  20. Hi folks, I'm looking to disable the auto reset that happens when you open the serial port on my UM2+. On the other printers I've got it was a simple case of removing the capacitor on the DTR line of the FTDI chip and then I can send commands to the printer and read back the status while printing from an SD card. Is there a similar capacitor on the UM2+ that can be removed? Cheers Jamie
  21. francois1

    plateau voilé

    bonjour help après une impression qui a mal tourné pour des raisons inconnues, je me suis retrouvé avec une pelote de fil PLA coincé un peu partout sous et sur le plateau. malheureusement après nettoyage, je me suis rendu compte que le nivèlement n'était pas efficace. je m'explique, l'imprimante propose de faire le nivèlement en trois point (milieu au fond, et droite gauche devant) et j'y arrive correctement. mais je me suis rendu compte le plateau est plus haut au fond à gauche et plus bas au fond à droite. je pense que le plateau c'est décalé en descendant sur la pelote de fil. quelqu'un a une idée si le plateau se règle? merci
  22. 6maker

    Bobinet Demo: A New Technology in 3D Printing

    until
    The idea behind Bobinet is to provide some help in protecting and managing your filament. The second solution that will be presented has the potential to give your older printer dual extrusion capabilities. Please come support this new technology from France! Light snacks will be provided! This is a free event! https://www.facebook.com/events/2033912206859276/
  23. Andrey1

    Adjustable iPad Air Stand

    Version 1.0.0

    3 downloads

    This is iPad Air stand. You can change the incline of the tablet by pushing the button up and pulling your iPad up or down.Printed with PLA. There are 5 main parts of the stand: Main body consists of two parts, which have juts and holes to ease assembling. Cilinder with groove to insert iPad. Button with lever (consists of two parts to ease printing) Tooth Spring (i took it from ordinary ballpoint pen) Parts of main body and of the button are glue together with dichloroethane (as i used PLA). Before gluing you should insert button with lever, tooth, spring and cylinder into one part of the main body. Then smear it with dichloroethane and connect with the second part of the main body.
  24. I have an issue with the built plate that I just can't solve. On my Ultimaker 2+ when starting a print the built plate goes up but does not stop until it forces itself against the print head. I have tried updating firmware and factory reset but nothing has changed. Nothing has been modded or changed on the printer. Can anyone lend a word of advice with their untold wisdom?
  25. This was purchased for 3k very little use just want gone have receipt showin purchase price I’m very firm on price 1400 plus shipping from wa state it’s a steal 3609498998
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