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Found 244 results

  1. Hello all, I have recently purchased an used UM2, which has a weird issue with very slow XY moves. It appears that the movement is not continuous, but stops at certain intervals. This is also causing a kinda zebra effect on surfaces. I wrote a test g-code file for demonstrating the problem. It's got only one move, G0 F50 Y100. A video with very audible movement sound is here. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks! //PMa
  2. When I startup my Ultimaker it default temperature is 50 degrees. This causes bad extrusion of course. Do I need to buy a new temp sensor? or is something else wrong? Thanks
  3. Hello, je ne sais pas si c'est permis ici ou si il y a une rubrique spéciale pour l'occasion ? Acquéreur d'une UM3, je vends ma UM2 très content de mes expériences d'impression avec cette marque fiable. Très bon état, peu servie comparé à d'autres, ses infos de Printing : 690 Material : 950 m Bobines en sus offertes (PLA divers marques) + bombe d'accroche 3DLac. NOUVEAU PRIX : 850 € à enlever Paris 11e (ou Vincennes). Envoi colissimo possible France métropolitaine +30€ Idéal pour un upgrade en UM 2+ via le kit A votre disposition.
  4. Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  5. Bonjour, J'ai récemment reçu une ultimaker 2 pour faire du prototypage. Celle-ci a déjà pas mal vécu et, après nettoyage et graissage des axes, j'ai procédé aux réglages pour passer à l'impression. J'ai donc calibré le plateau (plusieurs fois), fait la méthode atomique pour nettoyer la buse, nettoyé le plateau et fais des essais. Les petites pièces (environ 5 cm de diamètre) s'impriment correctement mais, suite au passage à l'impression d'un plateau de 70 mm de diamètre, la première couche d'accroche se relève comme si la chaleur et l'adhésion "tendent" les rebords. J'ai essayé plusieurs réglages de vitesse (je fais la première couche à 80%), de températures d'extrusion (je fais à 200°c) et de lit (je le met à 60°c) mais malgré cela, le bord inérieur au fond à droit je relève toujours petit à petit dès le cinquième tour. En essayant de positionner la pièce ailleurs sur le lit; même résultat. Le filament PLA semble assez agé mais présente une bonne impression sur de petites pièces. Il s'agit quand même de 3mm de diamètre mais je n'ai pas de problème avec le feeder dès 200°c à l'extrusion. Est-ce que je fais quelque chose de faux ou faut-il changer de filament? J'ai entendu dire qu'un filament ancien aura absorbé de l'humidité et qu'il serait intéressant de le régénérer au four (40°c pdt 3h)... Merci à ceux qui prendront le temps de me conseiller 😉
  6. Hi again. I'd be very pleased, if you can help me once more. Two-three weeks ago my printer startet out of nothing to print the walls quite wriggly (see Image "1"). My Ultimaker 2 has the newest Thinker firmware (V19.03.1) installed. I've printed PLA with 210° / 60° at standard speed. Nicolinux had in 2016 a similar Problem, described in the flowing threat: Because of this, I also tried to switch of the build plate heating. When I switched if off, everything was great (see Image "2"): But without the build plate heating it looses the adhesion. So I tried the PID auto config with 5 iterations. Which gave the following result (see Image "3"): All the previous prints were printed with 0.2 mm Layer hight. I then accidentally tried to print one with 0.1 mm Layer hight. Which resulted in a print without any wriggles, even though the print bead heating was activated. (see Image "4"): How is this possible? I'm getting wriggy walls when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight. But with 0.1 mm Layer hight everything is OK. Or when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight but stop the printing bed heating, also every thing is all right. But the adhesion is very bad. So I need this combination of 0.2 mm Layer hight and printing bed heating. Thanks for your advice.
  7. Hi all I'm close to loosing my temper. I'd be very thankful for any help. I have a Ultimaker 2 with an Olsenblock. Because of a failure, I had to replace my old 2.1.1 Mainboard with a new one (2.1.4). After switching it on, my Ultimaker 2 likes to go through this first calibration steps. But every time he likes to level the building plate he crashes in the head. Actually it just happens once, every other time I was faster in switching it of before it crashed. What Can i do? I have to say that I had used the 8/16 jumper with the old Mainboard. When I set this jumper on the new Mainboard, the building plate doesn't crash any more. It also acheaves to level the building plate. But when it has finished this procedure and wants to home the building plate, h stops around 20mm before reaching it and launches the error "Z switch broken Go to: ultimaker.com/ER05" I made sure that all the cables are connected at the right plug and properly. So I think it's not because of the connection. Furthermore I've measured the Z-switch with a multi-meter. It makes a short circuit when it's pressed. Otherwise it's an open switch. So I think it works also properly. I have also installed the newest Thinker firmware (19.03.1) as well as the newest "normal" firmware. But with both happens the same. I'd be really thankful, for any advice how I can get out of this mess. For completeness, how the whole mess started, and why I had to change the Mainboard: The walls of my print weren't very fin anymore. Some layers were staying out. I think I had over and under extrusion. According to the internet this lays because of the Z-axis. So i checked the 8/16-Jumper (which I sadly made my self with aluminium foil and tape). Because I thought, it may have a loose connection, I wanted to create a new jumper out of aluminium foil and tape again (what a bad idea, as I came to realise). While I was creating new jumper, the aluminium foil touched the PCB. Even it was not plunged to the power, it created a short circuit. The Ultimaker 2 with the old (2.1.1) Mainboard could still start, but the Z-axis didn't work anymore. Every time I wanted to home the building plate the error "Z switch broken" came. That's why I ordered a new Mainboard. Thank you for your help.
  8. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  9. Hello All I have been trying to fix a bed leveling issue with my UM2. All 3 points of the bed are all at very different heights and when I try to adjust the screws to get those 3 points leveled it throws the 2 back corners (where there are no screws) off being leveled. 3 possible sources of this error: 1) glass is bent 2) heated bed is bent 3) aluminum carriage (Z-axis) is not leveled. Since #3 is what everything attaches to I wanted to test that first. Long behold it was totally not straight. When I brought the build plate all the way up (with the heated bed and glass removed) all 3 points had different heights from the nozzle to the bed. Look at the 3 pictures. Is this normal or a fix for this? Thank you all for the help in advanced.
  10. Hi y'all, I could use some help. For an engineering project at my university, we had been tasked with creating an attachment for and modifying an Ultimaker 2 to allow for the heated mechanical extrusion of a bioscaffold material. We were able to figure out the necessary modifications for the heating and attachment, but we're having a bit of difficulty with the extrusion itself. The printer would no longer be used to print filament, so we decided to retask the stepper motor in the rear meant for the feeder to take on the role of our drive shaft within our mechanical syringe compression tool. After rewiring and moving the motor we were able to confirm it runs through using the Maintenance-> Advanced-> Move Material setting, but it just won't move during a print. We've tried adjusting the Current E, the material flow, and doing a factory reset. Would anyone be able to provide some insight into why it won't turn during a print but will during the Move Material adjustment and how we might be able to fix it? Any suggestions would be immensely helpful! Thanks!
  11. I just downloaded and used Cura 4. Previously I have used a very old version of Cura mostly because it had a plugin called "Pause at height" which I have used regularly for certain projects. This plugin allowed me to insert metal hardware into the print while the printing was paused. Cura 4 did not seem to contain any plugins. So I searched for a solution on the Ultimaker web site. At https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/21966-cura-plugins I found this: How to install plugins On your computer, go to the Cura folder. Windows: Located in 'program files' folder. Mac: Located in the applications folder. Open the folder and find the following file path: Cura/Contents/Resources/cura/plugins This folder contains a few other plugins, like '3MF Reader' and 'Autosave'. Download a plugin and unzip it. Move the entire folder into the plugins folder. (Re)start Cura None of these instructions work on my computer. I am running Mac OS X High Sierra, Version 10.13.6 1. I have no Cura folder, only the Ultimaker Cura application in the Applications folder. 2. The only way I can follow the suggested file path (which does not exist on my computer) is by right clicking on the Ultimaker Cura application icon, and choose "Show Package Contents". I can then follow a path to Contents/Resources/plugins/plugins. 3.This folder contains a long list of seemingly available plugins. "Pause at height" is not one of them. 4. This instruction makes no sense. Download? I am in a folder with many plugins. There is nothing to download. They all seem to be in this folder. There is no ZIP file anywhere in the plugins folder. 5. This instruction also makes no sense. What entire folder am I supposed to move where? Please help.
  12. Hi fellows! I decided to make some maintenance in my 5yo UM2(+) and I take it off the Z-rod for a better cleaning... but I suppose that I miss something when I was reasembling and this Trapezoidal Lead Nut is now out of place 😕 (Check photo). It also gives me an ER06 error... but Z swith looks in place and wires either. The bed is moving freely I suppose that this is the reason. Should I dissasemble the back cover? Or can I deal with it just trying to hit the screw in place (not easy by the way). Any help would be appreciated. That's my only printer by now so I'm temporary out of work. Cheers!
  13. With my Ultimaker 2 I see this: Problem My feeder backlashes at a frequency of roughly 1Hz. This leaves gaps in my prints because filament pressure on the nozzle disappears for a quarter of a second or so every time. See this video It happens with all my kind filaments: PETG, PLA and ABS The malfunction started out of nowhere. I had finished a print and was about to start the next. Then the backlashing began. Perhaps I changed filament, but I dont remember. What I have tried I have cleared the bowden tube. It is easy for me to push filament through the removed bowden tube without force. I have cleared the nozzle using the atomic method. Help Does anybody know what I can do to ensure a steady flow of filament. Preferably by fixing the backlashing. Best regards, Morten
  14. Anyone here on the forum that already has ordered this part from Aliexpress? It's a dual heaterblock. See description Aliexpress: 3D printer Heaterblock Ultimaker 2 + UM2 Dual Heads Extruder Olsson block fans kit Nozzles 0.25--0.8mm HotEnd for 1.75/3mm. Link is here: https://bit.ly/2Y0rHvT Is it working good ? It is still for 2 days 40% cheaper in price.
  15. Hello, We upgraded the firmware on our Ultimaker 2 to the latest version as provided via Cura. Since doing this the material feed/reverse functions on the machine is doing the opposite of what they should be. Basically, when the machine tries to feed material, the material is actually reversed and likewise when the machine tries to reverse material, the material is fed forwards. Looking online, it looks like the issue maybe that the incorrect firmware has been applied - firmware for the UM2+ instead of the UM2 firmware. I would like to know what is the earliest version of Cura that supports the UM2. Any help would be appreciated. Many thanks!
  16. Habe aus versehen einen Kurzschluss gemacht am Port J14 für die Lüfter vom Druckkopf. Kann man das noch reparieren indem man irgendwelche SMD Bauteile austauscht?
  17. Hi, I have been trying to print a large version of the one piece elephant so I scaled it up as large as I could in the latest cura software to fit on my UM2. I have a raft enabled to keep the model as large as possible. When I try to print the file it gets about 11mm up then stops with the trying to print outside the printable area message. I have checked the file on the SD card for errors and it reads back fine. I have also tried printing it twice and it stops in exactly the same place. Looking at the file with an online viewer the only thin that I can see is that at times the print head is moving outside the printed model and I am wondering if it is this movement which is outside the area , but as it is not "printing" it gets passed the cura normal checks. I have attached a zip of the gcode file. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bruce UM2_big_Elephant.zip
  18. last week i blown up my motordriver from the main extruder(E1) motor on the ultiboard rev v2.1.4 now i try to set my second extruder port (E2) as main but it doesn't work. first i select the right board (72) from the board list and after that i search for board 72 in the pin tab and change the 3 pinning numbers from E0 To E1 but no power at all do i miss a step? i also tried to change the X/Y pinning and that work the change direction. the extruder morot also work when i put the connector in the Z motor port.
  19. Bonjour, Bien que j'ai réglé une température différente de 205°C (matériau=PLA) pour l'extrudeur, l'affichage de l'Ultimaker indique 205°C dans tous les cas. Sauriez-vous pourquoi? Merci de votre aide.
  20. Hi guys, had someone of you some issue with Z-axis movement on UM2? My one doesnt move in normal way, its just randomly moving and just in down direction. When I try to move screw manually it goes pretty easy so it seems to be an electrical issue. I ve measured stepper resistance and both coils have the same resistance. When I try to swap stepper from Y-axis to the Z-axis driver it does the same weird movement. The pcb around all drivers has an yellow shade, probably caused by high temperatures. Does it mean I have broken complete board?? 😕Thank you very much for any advice. Happy printing 😉 And I forget to say I got the ER06 error but the limit switch is well connected and also function is ok.
  21. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1 but the problems seem to persist. Any ideas on what's wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot next? Could there be multiple issues? Thanks for the help.
  22. I want to add dual extrusion to my UM2+ Currently (as far as I can tell) there are two projects that deal with Dual Extrusion on the UM2+ ULTICREATR 2X http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/ulticreatr/164-ulticreatr-2x.html#/52-printer-ultimaker_2 Mark2 https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/ From what little I can gather, the Ulticreatr 2x setup would have issues with the nozzle hitting the part, the temperature from one nozzle creeping into the other, and oozing. Is this really an issue with the Ulticreatr 2x? Does anyone have first hand experience with this setup? The videos/images on their site are very pretty. The Mark2 looks like it would reduce the printable area on the bed because it has to park the second carriage (it would also take longer to print if there are lots of color changes). Is this an accurate assessment? Are these the only two options? What does it take to build a Dual Extrusion setup? If I were to build my own Dual Extrusion by utilizing the existing parts (similar to how the Ulticreatr 2x works) what more is needed other than a second extruder, motor, bowden, and a nozzle/heatblock set? I guess this question is more of a: Why would I spend $705 USD on the Ulticreatr 2x when I can just buy the parts I need for half that?
  23. Bonjour, J'ai une Ultimaker 2 avec CURA dernière version sous Mac, j'aimerai imprimé du filament flexible de 3D Fil. Je travail avec une carte SD. Je ne connaissais pas du tout ce plastique et là, je tombe sur plein de problèmes. Déjà le filament a du mal a passer le feeder, il s'en roule autour et en cherchant, j'ai vu qu'il faut imprimé une pièce pour la mettre à la place du feeder d'origine. Chose que je ferais ce soir en rentrant du boulot. Mais après ça, je suppose qu'il y a plusieurs paramètres à régler avant de pouvoir imprimer. J'aimerais tout savoir sur les paramétrages qu'il faut mettre pour pouvoir imprimer du filament flexible s'il vous plait. J'espère que l'on pourra m'aider, au faite je suis novice au cas ou. MERCI.
  24. Check out this most beautiful visage! Written up i more details here: http://3dprint.com/117412/duke-case-study-3dprinteros/
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