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Found 213 results

  1. Coucou? Je viens vers vous pour vous exposer un problème survenu au fur et à mesure sur deux de mes machines, quasiment en même temps. Je ne sais pas si je suis devenu parano, mais j'ai remarqué depuis quelques temps que la tête d'impression dans son ensemble se met à avoir sérieusement chaud. Je remarque également depuis ce même lapse de temps que j'ai quelques irrégularités dans mon extrusion. Malgré tout, à l'affichage, la température semble stable. 2 hypothèses : - Ma buse touche la structure en métal de la tête d'impression : la chaleur se dissipe anormalement, la sonde m'indique toujours la bonne température mais il n'en est rien. La résistance de chauffe doit pousser plus fort que nécessaire pour atteindre la température ; l'irrégularité s'installe, et ça va pas du tout du tout du tout. - Il me manque cette graisse "cuivrée" entre le réceptacle en métal de l'isolant téflon et la pièce métallique carrée d'environ 3x3cm de la structure de la tête. Au fur et à mesure des démontages successifs, je n'en ai plus suffisamment à cet endroit. Je m'interroge et remet mon ignorance entre vos mains : peut-être cette graisse a-t-elle pour but justement d'isoler la buse qui transpire à 210°C du reste de la tête d'impression ? Si oui, quel en est donc la référence et où en trouver ? Un grand merci comme toujours. Antoine
  2. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  3. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  4. I have an Ultimaker2 with Tinkergnome software. Recently i noticed strange behavior in the preheat menu. When I set the nozzle temperature to 10 degrees in the menu and i want to reset it to 0 with G-command "M104 S0" from USB, the setting goes to 160 degrees. In another case I saw it go to 200 degrees. I don't have the latest version of Tinker. I can not update because of partly broken USB-chip. Is this a known bug? If I send "M104 S1" it works fine. My response to M115: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin Ultimaker2; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/Ultimaker PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Ultimaker EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
  5. While printing at 260C the machine suddenly shut down and I thought it was a fuse in the plug source, but when checked there was still power at the power supply and the DC plug to printer. Any suggestions what to check next? Machine is all black no power up.
  6. Hallo an alle, ich bin aktuell mit Marlin 1.1.9 am experimentieren und würde gerne einen Servo über den Anschluss J26 ansteuern, der eine "Switching Nozzle" betätigt. Komme aber mit der Konfiguration nicht weiter. Hat hier jemand mit der Servoansteuerung und Pinbelegung Erfahrung? Mit der Programmiersprache bin ich nicht so sehr vertraut, versuche mir jetzt etwas anzueignen... Folgender Fehlermeldung bekomme ich in der ArduinoIDE: Arduino: 1.8.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" sketch/Marlin_main.cpp: In function 'void move_nozzle_servo(uint8_t)': Marlin_main.cpp:12132:53: error: 'MOVE_SERVO' was not declared in this scope MOVE_SERVO(SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR, angles[90]); ^ exit status 1 'MOVE_SERVO' was not declared in this scope In Configuration.h // A dual-nozzle that uses a servomotor to raise/lower one of the nozzles #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE #if ENABLED(SWITCHING_NOZZLE) #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR 0 #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1 #define HOTEND_OFFSET_Z { 0.0, 0.0 } #endif #define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command // Delay (in milliseconds) before the next move will start, to give the servo time to reach its target angle. // 300ms is a good value but you can try less delay. // If the servo can't reach the requested position, increase it. #define SERVO_DELAY { 300 } // Only power servos during movement, otherwise leave off to prevent jitter #define DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE --------------------------- pins_ULTIMAIN_2.h #define SERVO0_PWM_PIN 13
  7. Cheo

    Feeder problems

    The feeder works fine when changing material or inserting material but when you try to print you can see it and hear it moving but no material comes out. Clogged nozzle was discarded using the atomic method. Thanks in advanced.
  8. Cheo

    Alimentador

    El alimentador funciona tanto para extraer el material o filamento como para entrar el material nuevo. Sin embargo, a la hora de imprimir se escucha y se ve movimiento pero no sale material. Descartado que la boquilla esté tapada porque le apliqué el "método atómico" sin problema.
  9. lekid

    Bed Remote Box

    Version 1.0.0

    5 downloads

    Creation of a small box for a bed remote.Printed in Centaur PP from Formfutura. Specs : Printer : UM2 + bondtech feeder + Olsson Bloc Material : Centaur PP (polypropylène) de Formfutura Nozzle : 0.6mm Layer Height : 300microns Speed : 40mm/s Wall : 2mm Supports : Everywhere at 50° and 20% Fan Speed : 100% Printing Time : 3h10 I used brown PP scotch for the bed adhesion.
  10. Hello fellow Ultimaker enthusiasts, This week I was installing a new temperature probe and heater into my UM2. When I took the control board down, I noticed some brownish areas around the microsteppers (thanks Shannon at 3DVerkstan support for the info!). Also the capacitors at C60 and C64 appear to be burnt or scorched (small red circles) Anybody else seen this? Tried to repair it? If I look at the schematics on github, it looks like these are 4,7 uF capacitors, and my guess is that they are part of a voltage smoothing circuit. The reason I ask is the replacement board is quite pricey, and since the printer has been in fairly heavy usage since 2015, might make sense to put that money towards a replacement machine rather than a new board... Thank you for any comments or suggestions, M
  11. PhilDesign

    Lüfter Anschluss J14 kaputt

    Habe aus versehen einen Kurzschluss gemacht am Port J14 für die Lüfter vom Druckkopf. Kann man das noch reparieren indem man irgendwelche SMD Bauteile austauscht?
  12. Hi all! After a strange noise during printing the Forbidden Watchtower by Kjai I paused, resume and paused again and quit this print. Looks like it also cause a layer shift: Video_UM2(+)Noise_14seconds / google drive What's going on here? By the way I'm using UM2(+) printer, Simplify3D v4 and thinkerMarlin 17.10.1 as firmware 1: Bearing problem? 2: Lack of lubrication on XY the axles? It's tought to move with printer shutted down. 3: Slicer problem? In preview looks fine. Firmware problem? 4: Belt? Everything seems in place. 5: None of the above ?
  13. I broke accidentally short circuit the fan port j14 (cooling fans). Is the any way to repair the port by soldering an SMD part? Right now I am using the led port for the fans ? Ultiumaker Board rev. 2.1.4
  14. BrayChristopher

    Olsson Block Help

    We have an UM2. I finally upgraded the hot block to an Olsson hot block and Micro Swiss Wear Resistant Nozzle. Of course, now the UM2 and I look like we both forgot how to print things. I had to raise the temp to print PLA. Is this normal? PETG is making me lose my mind. I used to get good prints like this. Now it looks like this It is hard to see, but the hairs and bumpy surface happen where the "base" of the part stops and the "walls" start. It is easier to see this on this larger part. Here is a section view. I am using Simplify 3D and always have. Same materials. I didn't change any of the settings during this print. This artifact does not align with the layer that the fans start (50%). Any ideas??? Please and thanks. Also, I was getting temp errors so I wrapped up the hot block in ceramic wool. Is that normal? Is there a magic nozzle that doesn't stick to PETG? Gross.
  15. Hi Folks, This topics almost went into the drain, -but actually this is a very important issue for an "FDM Bowden type" printer. When I had to tag this topics, I did not find the "tag" I was looking for, -so I just put up the "one" I have. But the fact is that, this is valid for every Bowden tube printers that's made. So you may ask, what is the issue; -the issue is friction! So, I'll say, friction is the Achilles heel of "FDM Bowden type" 3D printers. Friction in the transfer line some place; -"between the the bowden tube and the filament"! How to fix this? 1) Can we reduce the friction(?): Yes or No. 2) Can we increase the feeder torque(?): Yes or No. If you'd ask me in the beginning of my 3D printing "period", I would say no to the first question and yes to the second question. But today, I'll say yes to both questions! I'we put much effort into this problem, cause there was never any good answer to this issue, but now I understand the strange feeding we sometimes being observed during first layer and elsewhere during printing. Actually, I'd feels like walking around the bushes in this issue, but not anymore.. If this interest you, read on. I'll focus a little about the general things first. I’ll like to focus a little on the bowden tube and how it should be set up on this kind of printers. This might look strange for some, but may help others.. The bowden tube work best when it can stay with looping upward during printing, without tilting much to one or the other side. In order to keep this loop as perfect as possible, I’ve installed a tiny carbon fiber rod (max diameter 1 mm). This carbon rod is to be strapped to the wire bundle and only one attachment to the bowden tube at the very top of the loop. Like this: How the straps is arranged. Here you see the one place they are "attached" together. This is needed as both (Bowden and Wiring) are attached offset from each other at the extruder and at the feeder, now they can move freely without interfering each other. On the printer: And with a top hat special.. This rod should be solid strapped to one of the four screws that’s holding the extruder attached together. When referring to parts in the printer I’ll always refer to looking strait into the printer, -so the long screw to use for the carbon rod and the wiring wiring loom (or cable), will be the aft. R/H screw to strap into. This carbon rod also need to be strapped alongside the feeder unit together with the wiring loom. How to strap up the wire loom and the carbon rod from the feeder and toward the extruder is also an important detail to include in the whole setup. This strapping when done right, will prevent the wiring to be bend all the time in the same area when extruder move around, such thing is awaiting a rupture here (–an open wire) causing a malfunction in your printer to come. Also important to note is this; there should be NO connector located inside this wiring loom! Now to the question why do such a setup improve our printer? In order to explain this simply, just cut two peaces each about 1 meter from a roll of filament with a light color, white will be the best choose, if you have. Now you should have two equally curved up filament lengths, right? Find a black filth pen, the permanent type (no withe board pen, we don’t want remains from this into our bowden tube). No mark the outside of the loop in the whole length with a black visible line on one of this filament and make a black visible line inside the loop on the other piece of filament. Now, let it dry.. OK. As the “ink” is dried, we can make a little test. You do not need to power up the printer, but if you have an old UM2 you need to power up and just feed the filament to the extruder and stop here, do not turn the heater on (no need). For those with the +model, just feed, with the press wheel retracted, all the way to the extruder. Make sure you feed this piece of filament in the same attitude, as it is delivered from the roll of filament normally attached to the printer. Here is the two test filament, pre cutted deg. and ready to be inserted into the printers bowden tube. Make sure that the extruder is parked in the normal rest position, in the forward R/H position. Now you can choose any of the piece of the two test filaments you have, just feed it into the bowden tube as described above until it is at the extruder. Now look at where the black line is located when looking at the bowden tube, it should be possible to see this line. So, if you choose the one with the black line outside the loop, you will see the line following the upper side of the bowden tube. Right? And of course, vice versa, when feeding the other filament into the printer. So, as the filament extend into the bowden tube, the “arm” will extend while filament gradually change direction and this will increase the torque that’s will twist the filament starting at the feeder. So sure, this “twist” torque will variate as the extruder move around on the heath bed. So what is the point of mention all this, well, we can very much benefit from this “facts” -armed with this information. The key word here is friction. In order to keep the friction as lo as possible, we would like to have the filament as clean as possible when it is forced toward the upper part of the (Teflon) bowden tube. All this is to prevent additional “drag” for our feeder system in order to be as efficient as possible. If we can achieve this, we do not need this “very strong” feeders, that can create a force up (10-14.. and some more!!) KP., -a pressure “normal” retraction cant cope with.. Now lets have a quick look at the system: This is something from many months ago, however, an important note here is; If the friction constant is 1, we would not be able to move the filament inside the bowden tube at all. If it is zero there will be no resistance when moving the filament. Sure this is just the extreme extends (theory), a friction constant will always be some place between (0 and 1). According to this drawing, it is oblivious that outer “signature” track wheel cause increased wear inside the upper part of the Teflon bowden tube. Knurled wheel much less than hubbed wheel, so hubbed wheel should absulutely not be used on the outer side of the filament to drive the filament through the bowden tube! This because the hubbed wheel makes crossed cut along the whole filament length and really scrape into the Teflon. It is just a matter of time before it will fail, if it is installed grabbing the outer side of the curved filament. For the knurled wheel, this work better, but will in time also suffer for this kind of wear and tear. This occur when the system using knurled wheel have to produce higher pressure, the small pyramided dig up a nub behind every hole it makes and those small nubs work as small grinders to the Teflon surface. The Teflon surface is kind of soft and is easy to rub down. Printing this way is not very efficient as it create other problems due to the higher working pressure. The other feeding way, feeding in the inside loop, do not need high pressure, due to lo friction -and is much more easy to control.. Now to the worst problem here; when the bowden tube is “rubbed up”, due to this above issues, -you do remember the twisting of the filament during extruder normal movement. Well, -due to this twisting when the head move around, the friction factor might/will variate and so will the extruder pressure as well. I’ll guess you know very well how the rest of the story will end. Well folks, this one is not very easy to realize, but really is an improvement. Thanks. And thank you @gr5 for fixing up my mess.. :) Torgeir.
  16. Hi All, I believe I have stumbled upon something new to me that I have not yet encountered. I remember all the way back to when the ultimaker 2 was first released. The start and end code in cura did not pull the material out of the extruder after completing a print and fed the extruder tip a larger amount of material when starting. I have recently upgraded the feeder to the Ultimaker 2+ extruder and adjusted the feedrate accordingly (it prints excellently). Now the issue that I am having is that everytime I do a print I have to manually prime the extruder by moving the material in the firmware because the material move is either too short or at the wrong feedrate. Is this something I have to add into start and/or end code in cura upon making the file to print? What kind of additions to the code do I need? I'd prefer the material to not be removed from the extruder tip on completion and to be able to adjust the amount that the material extrudes before starting the print. This way I can change materials after each print (if I need to) and clean the tip by pulling the material out when it is almost cool. Or leave the material in so that it ejects more previously melted and solidified material the next time I print. Thereby preventing clogs and material blending in between changes. Best Regards, MicheliDE
  17. Hi All, I've been working on getting my Ultimaker 2 to work with dual extruders on a single print head and have been running into some issues. I have the dual olsen blocks on the print head and am eager to try them out. I did some research and some trial and error to get where I am but was wondering if anyone could save me some time because it seems that the next step would take a lot of trial and error without knowing the possibility of getting it to work. 1.) I have Cura 3.4.1 and realized that I could not auto update the firmware to the newest firmware from 15.04ish. I had to download several versions of cura to incrementally auto update the firmware. When I tried to skip from 15.04ish to 3.4.1 cura would freeze and not update the firmware. Incrementally I was able to go from 15.04 to 2.7 to 3.4.1 2.) From 1.) I have deduced that somewhere along the way Cura stopped updating the Dual Extrusion *.hex flie marlinultimaker2-dual.hex even though it still comes with cura 3.4.1 and this appears to be why when I try to update the firmware with the hex file it will not (it gets stuck and the updater progress freezes but does not freeze the program). 3.) I have done some additional searching and cannot find anywhere that notes the last version of cura that is able to update the firmware with the marlinultimaker2-dual.hex 4.) Everything else with cura seems to be good to go as I setup a custom printer with dual extruders and as soon as I can get the firmware uploaded to the machine I should be able to finalize the alignment measurements that I made between the extruders. Could anyone give me some advice with the firmware uploading and cura version I need to update the printer or a link to an alternate hex that I can try to install? Best Regards, Dean
  18. Hi All, I recently built up my Ultimaker 2 with the extrusion upgrade kit from ultimaker and found that the stepper motor for the material advancing is moving the motor in the opposite direction. Instead of taking in filament it actually turns in a way that pushes the filament out. The result is that I cannot load material through to the tube to the extruder or print with the material. Do I need to reverse wires at E1 on the PCB (BE/PK/GN/BK) or can I reverse the direction of the motor in firmware? I'd rather not have to mess with the firmware as I would have to adjust it for all new versions to be installed. Best Regards, Dean
  19. sneakersandgenes

    Running Cura from command line

    I'm looking to automate the slicing of some .stl files and have been trying to use CuraEngine. I keep getting: [ERROR] Trying to retrieve unregistered setting with no value given: 'mesh_rotation_matrix' The command (among other attempts) I have been using is CuraEngine slice -l path\to\stl\test.stl My understanding is that if no settings .json is specified cura uses default values but this doesn't seem to work. Thanks
  20. Is there any difference between an Ultimaker 2 upgraded with the Extrusion upgrade kit and an Ultimaker 2+?
  21. cloakfiend

    Gigeresque

    Well finally and failure....finally tried a second time to plate this oversize model i made and printed, but as soon as i took the last photo my hand slipped knocked into the model and smashed it onto the floor damaging the plate....oh well. its a sign i think, to let it go. I have another one anyway so im not that bothered. the solution was shot, im lucky it coated at alll! This is my re-imagination of a friends request to make his painting into a 3D version.
  22. Selling a like new Ultimaker 2 extended. Total usage roughly 15-20 hours. Comes with 2 full spools, cast and molding materials, spray gun, compressor etc. Bought new from Amazon 2 years ago but due to heavy work load never really used it like I originally planned. Asking $2000 obo. Can deliver for free in California. In original box with all factory packaging. Will send more pics etc for serious inquiries.
  23. Lately I've had a problem with underextrusion on my UM2. Something was causing a lot of backpressure, i could hear the extruder skip or hop on occasion, but i was having trouble finding it. After experimenting with extrusion temperature, different rolls of filament, extrusion speed, cleaning bowden tubes and extruder gears and housing, changing nozzles, still underextruding. Changed heatblock and heater/thermocouple, still problem. Then I re-took the hotend apart and found this.. Some plastic had gotten between the I2K spacer and the base of the stainless steel bit and hardened producing a constriction. I must missed this when exhanging bits. In case someone else is running into the dark corners exploring under extrusion, here is one more stone to turn over : ) Mathias
  24. Hallo Liebe Community, ich habe ein Problem beim Einstellen meines Ultimaker 2 auf Dual Extruder. Und ich hoffe ihr habt eine Idee wo mein fehler liegt. Was habe ich bis jetzt gemacht. Die Firmware 15.04.02 habe ich auf den Ultimaker geupdatet mit der Dual Funktion. Das hat gepasst. Sehe die zwei Temperaturfühlerin der Advance einstellung, und kann die Heizpatronen auf Temperatur einstellen . Diese Heizen auch auf Temperatur. Die E-Motoren für den Filamentvorschub kann ich ebenso bewegen in der sparte Move Material. Die tun. Jetzt hab ich Probleme wenn ich den Slice von Cura auf dem Ultimaker 2 starte. Bewegen sich alle Achsen ganz normal, aber die e-Motoren machen keinen mucks. 3D Drucken möchte ich den zweifarbigen Frosch. Muss ich etwas im g.code ändern damit sich da was tut oder hab ich anderst wo einen fehler drin... Wäre super wenn mir jemand helfen könnte. Gruß Marin
  25. jungle2go

    matching config files for hex files

    I downloaded and flashed Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2go-HBK-17.10.1.hex for my um2go to which I added a heated bed. Are there matching config header files for this version? I noticed that the heated bed is not powered continuously. Probably because of the smaller power supply. In my situation i have separate power supply for the heated bed. I want to make a small change so that the bed is powered continuously.
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