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Found 258 results

  1. Not looking for an "extended" version just the standard 2 or 2+ working or not. If not working or needs work please PM me and explain whats wrong with the printer and the price your asking. Looking for a reasonable price, willing to buy right away. Will only pay thru paypal. EDIT: If this thread is still up, i am still looking so please PM me regardless.
  2. My Ultimaker 2 has worked perfect ly for years with exception to the led which had blown the T1 or T2 transistor. so i replaced them both and also T3 as it was the same the light now work perfectly. however every time i tried to print or move the bed of print head i would get a ER06 or ER05 or ER07 i have tested the stop switch and my connection sereral time and all it fine. after reading a few posts it suggested reinstalling the firmware , unfortunately it now thinks its the first time i've used the machine and want to calibrate the bed but keep coming up with the errors messages i have tried to connect it the cura via a usb cable but it dose not detect the printer while it stuck in the calibration mode Help i understand you cannot install the firm ware via SD card. Jason
  3. As a personal project, I would like to connect to my Ultimaker 2 through the USB-B port, get access to the variable that estimates remaining time as calculated by the Ultimaker 2 (the same variable that displays on the LCD screen), and send this data to either another device or another program. Evidently, I have much to learn about software, so I do not expect a full solution. I would really appreciate any kind of advice on how to begin thinking about this problem, even if it's what I can start Googling to learn more - I see that all the Cura/Ultimaker code is up on Github, but I don't really know where to start. Profuse thank-you's to whoever chooses to reply to this.
  4. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  5. Hello, I am little new here, but i have a problem i cannot solve. So i will try here to find a sollution. A little background: Using UM2 with Igus material iglidur® I150-PF. Making slide bushings for verious applications. https://www.igus.nl/product/12404 Settings : 0.4mm nozzle, 0.15mm layer height , 60mm/s print speed. Extruder 245°C, Build plate 65°C When printing there are 45° lines extra on the inner and sometimes on the outer shell. It seems to be extra material and i tried a lot of different settings to remove it. Nothing seems to help. The weird thing is that a year ago i had no problems at all. So is there something changed in the default settings in Cura that can affect / produce this? See attached image for details of my problem. The line seems to be random, but that is so far i can see. Its is the Z-hop? Retraction? Please help, would be i big help if somebody can help me solved this challenge. Slide busch_V6.3mf
  6. My ultimaker 2 prints fine up to last few layers PLA. Then suddenly it starts to print in random directions and the bed forces the printed part into the printhead and destroys the printed part. This happens with all the things i have printed recently. Please help ASAP Thank you
  7. Caro25

    upgrade UM2

    Bonjour à tous, Je me pose une question existentielle: J'ai une imprimante UM2 depuis 4 ans, et je me demande si je m'offrirais le "upgrage extrusion kit"... Pour info, je viens d'achter 2 imprimantes UM3 à mon boulot. Je n'ai donc pas l'intention d'acheter une UM3 pour la maison à court terme, car, je l'avoue, si je dois imprimer quelque chose avec une UM3, je le ferai probablement avec une du boulot. Qu'en pensez-vous? Cela vaut la peine?
  8. Hi all, I have a weird issue on my ultimaker 2. When I print a circle consisting of 2 walls those walls are slightly off as in the attached pictures. The first picture shows walls which are split, this occurred pretty much only in this area. The rest of the circle was fine. On another Ultimaker I have this is even worse. Thanks
  9. Hello, je ne sais pas si c'est permis ici ou si il y a une rubrique spéciale pour l'occasion ? Acquéreur d'une UM3, je vends ma UM2 très content de mes expériences d'impression avec cette marque fiable. Très bon état, peu servie comparé à d'autres, ses infos de Printing : 690 Material : 950 m Bobines en sus offertes (PLA divers marques) + bombe d'accroche 3DLac. NOUVEAU PRIX : 850 € à enlever Paris 11e (ou Vincennes). Envoi colissimo possible France métropolitaine +30€ Idéal pour un upgrade en UM 2+ via le kit A votre disposition.
  10. Hey guy's, long time no post 😄 I have recently noticed a creaky sound from my UM 2 when the printer head moves left to right. I have lubricated all of the axis rods so I think it's coming from the motor. I've attached a video here but the sound isn't very clear. Can anyone help me with how I can fix this?
  11. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  12. I made a small change to to the um2 firmware for my ultimaker 2. Now someone on the other side of the world wants the same change but she has an ultimaker 2+ extended. I can not find any flags in the header files to make a build for the extended.
  13. Made this model to go into space! Yay! Makes a change from my usual black background! The black of space!!!
  14. Hello community, I bought a new feeder for my Ultimaker 2 because the original feeder was not strong enough to reach high speed. This is the new feeder: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32709735648.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.546127f1tXxzPF&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_3_10065_10068_10547_319_317_10548_10696_10084_453_10083_454_10618_10304_10307_10820_10821_537_10302_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103%2Csearchweb201603_53%2CppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=4b4ad0f1-9207-4e05-a6e2-fd609f87b279-0&algo_pvid=4b4ad0f1-9207-4e05-a6e2-fd609f87b279 This feeder works excellent but it has a ratio of 1:3 to the original one. Now solved the problem with a material flow of 300%. And now my question: Is it possible to change the Ultimaker feeder configuration to reach the needed ratio? So that I don't have to set the mat. flow to 300%? Thanks, Michael
  15. I have a serious issue with two of my ultimaker 2 printers. One just shutdown during printing with ColorFab HT at 260C and bed at 90C. Just shutdown, no errors, nothing. Tried to turn it on, nothing. Left it to cool down for 24h and now it starts up but Im afraid to print anything on it now. Does Ultimaker2 have some temp cutout or similar ? Second printer complete shutdown. A question, I removed the motherboard from it and tried to connect it to computer. Nothing happened. Does power brick needs to be plugged in or can the board be powered from USB? Regards,
  16. Hi again. I'd be very pleased, if you can help me once more. Two-three weeks ago my printer startet out of nothing to print the walls quite wriggly (see Image "1"). My Ultimaker 2 has the newest Thinker firmware (V19.03.1) installed. I've printed PLA with 210° / 60° at standard speed. Nicolinux had in 2016 a similar Problem, described in the flowing threat: Because of this, I also tried to switch of the build plate heating. When I switched if off, everything was great (see Image "2"): But without the build plate heating it looses the adhesion. So I tried the PID auto config with 5 iterations. Which gave the following result (see Image "3"): All the previous prints were printed with 0.2 mm Layer hight. I then accidentally tried to print one with 0.1 mm Layer hight. Which resulted in a print without any wriggles, even though the print bead heating was activated. (see Image "4"): How is this possible? I'm getting wriggy walls when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight. But with 0.1 mm Layer hight everything is OK. Or when I print with 0.2 mm Layer hight but stop the printing bed heating, also every thing is all right. But the adhesion is very bad. So I need this combination of 0.2 mm Layer hight and printing bed heating. Thanks for your advice.
  17. I am new to home 3d printing. I've inherited a rundown UM2 from my work. It had not been used in a few years, dusty and miss-aligned. I tried my best to bring it back to its former glory but so far I have not managed to get high-quality prints that have fine details. The work that I have performed so far: tightened up all case screws cleaned up and reassembled feeder cleaned up and reassembled hot-end tensioned long and short belts aligned axis with alignment tool greased rods and z-screw My setup: Cura 4.1 Olsson Block E3D 0.6 Nozzle esun black PLA 3mm If I print simple shapes the prints come out pretty good. When I print things that have fine detail I get what I think is a lot of ghosting or ringing. I am also having major retraction issues. Below are a few test prints — any guidance on how to troubleshoot my issues would be greatly appreciated.
  18. Selling my used Ultimaker 2 3D printer. Good condition. I purchased it when it come out and I used it for personal and studio projects. Also come with some spare parts. I still have three materials I haven't use. Price: $850USD
  19. Hello all, I have recently purchased an used UM2, which has a weird issue with very slow XY moves. It appears that the movement is not continuous, but stops at certain intervals. This is also causing a kinda zebra effect on surfaces. I wrote a test g-code file for demonstrating the problem. It's got only one move, G0 F50 Y100. A video with very audible movement sound is here. Any suggestions would be very welcome. Thanks! //PMa
  20. When I startup my Ultimaker it default temperature is 50 degrees. This causes bad extrusion of course. Do I need to buy a new temp sensor? or is something else wrong? Thanks
  21. Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  22. Bonjour, J'ai récemment reçu une ultimaker 2 pour faire du prototypage. Celle-ci a déjà pas mal vécu et, après nettoyage et graissage des axes, j'ai procédé aux réglages pour passer à l'impression. J'ai donc calibré le plateau (plusieurs fois), fait la méthode atomique pour nettoyer la buse, nettoyé le plateau et fais des essais. Les petites pièces (environ 5 cm de diamètre) s'impriment correctement mais, suite au passage à l'impression d'un plateau de 70 mm de diamètre, la première couche d'accroche se relève comme si la chaleur et l'adhésion "tendent" les rebords. J'ai essayé plusieurs réglages de vitesse (je fais la première couche à 80%), de températures d'extrusion (je fais à 200°c) et de lit (je le met à 60°c) mais malgré cela, le bord inérieur au fond à droit je relève toujours petit à petit dès le cinquième tour. En essayant de positionner la pièce ailleurs sur le lit; même résultat. Le filament PLA semble assez agé mais présente une bonne impression sur de petites pièces. Il s'agit quand même de 3mm de diamètre mais je n'ai pas de problème avec le feeder dès 200°c à l'extrusion. Est-ce que je fais quelque chose de faux ou faut-il changer de filament? J'ai entendu dire qu'un filament ancien aura absorbé de l'humidité et qu'il serait intéressant de le régénérer au four (40°c pdt 3h)... Merci à ceux qui prendront le temps de me conseiller 😉
  23. Hi all I'm close to loosing my temper. I'd be very thankful for any help. I have a Ultimaker 2 with an Olsenblock. Because of a failure, I had to replace my old 2.1.1 Mainboard with a new one (2.1.4). After switching it on, my Ultimaker 2 likes to go through this first calibration steps. But every time he likes to level the building plate he crashes in the head. Actually it just happens once, every other time I was faster in switching it of before it crashed. What Can i do? I have to say that I had used the 8/16 jumper with the old Mainboard. When I set this jumper on the new Mainboard, the building plate doesn't crash any more. It also acheaves to level the building plate. But when it has finished this procedure and wants to home the building plate, h stops around 20mm before reaching it and launches the error "Z switch broken Go to: ultimaker.com/ER05" I made sure that all the cables are connected at the right plug and properly. So I think it's not because of the connection. Furthermore I've measured the Z-switch with a multi-meter. It makes a short circuit when it's pressed. Otherwise it's an open switch. So I think it works also properly. I have also installed the newest Thinker firmware (19.03.1) as well as the newest "normal" firmware. But with both happens the same. I'd be really thankful, for any advice how I can get out of this mess. For completeness, how the whole mess started, and why I had to change the Mainboard: The walls of my print weren't very fin anymore. Some layers were staying out. I think I had over and under extrusion. According to the internet this lays because of the Z-axis. So i checked the 8/16-Jumper (which I sadly made my self with aluminium foil and tape). Because I thought, it may have a loose connection, I wanted to create a new jumper out of aluminium foil and tape again (what a bad idea, as I came to realise). While I was creating new jumper, the aluminium foil touched the PCB. Even it was not plunged to the power, it created a short circuit. The Ultimaker 2 with the old (2.1.1) Mainboard could still start, but the Z-axis didn't work anymore. Every time I wanted to home the building plate the error "Z switch broken" came. That's why I ordered a new Mainboard. Thank you for your help.
  24. Hello All I have been trying to fix a bed leveling issue with my UM2. All 3 points of the bed are all at very different heights and when I try to adjust the screws to get those 3 points leveled it throws the 2 back corners (where there are no screws) off being leveled. 3 possible sources of this error: 1) glass is bent 2) heated bed is bent 3) aluminum carriage (Z-axis) is not leveled. Since #3 is what everything attaches to I wanted to test that first. Long behold it was totally not straight. When I brought the build plate all the way up (with the heated bed and glass removed) all 3 points had different heights from the nozzle to the bed. Look at the 3 pictures. Is this normal or a fix for this? Thank you all for the help in advanced.
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