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  1. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  2. As the title says: My ultimaker2 printerhead has started to crash into the frontside. Whenever I start printing everything starts ok. The printerhead moves to the "home position" as it should and stops at the right position. But when the printer head moves to the front, for extruding filament, it doesn't stop it before the end of the rail. Instead it just keeps going and grinds on the belts. After grinding for a second it moves back and starts printing and everything is fine. It stops fine in the other direction. It's only in the back-to-front direction it doesn't stop in the correct posisition. So I have: manually tested the switches and they work. resetted the printer to factory settings. updated the cura to 4.6.1. tightened the bets I have had the printer for many years and never had this problem until a couple of days ago. Any ideas how to fix this?
  3. Hi. I have a UM2. I want to upgrade to UM2+. I can’t quite afford the expensive official upgrade kit , but I can see the parts are available individually for a fraction of the price online. My question is.. Is it possible to Upgrade one part at a time? I’m tempted to start with the motor & feeder and then save up a little more and then later in the year depending on affordability maybe upgrade the head and shafts. Eventually I,ll get the least important stuff like the spool holder and sticker My main concern is at what point do you update firmware. Do I have to update firmware of the printer for each part installed, I wonder how sensitive can it be? or Is it best to wait and install all in one go once everything is complete and ready to fully install? I suspect the motor and feeder are the most crucial parts on the upgrade and maybe this is the only time that the printer really needs the firmware upgrade. I suspect I’m most likely very wrong about this idea, but please let me know your answers and how you upgraded. Thanks. Much appreciated in any answer
  4. I've just been searching and am amazed that this has not been covered before.......or I have missed it! I was hoping to be able to set the end code in Cura to lower the buildplate by a smaller amount rather than all the way to the bottom. This is purely for making nice time-lapse end shots in Octoprint so there might be a better way of doing this but I have not come across that either! On the face of it this seems simple enough by just using a relative command and then lowering by 50mm but this might cause a problem if I ever print anything fairly tall and the instruction will therefore tell the buildplate to try to go below the end stop. Would this be a problem on an UM2 or would it just stop when it hits the switch? If this does cause a problem then my thought was therefore some kind of query to lower by 50mm unless the Z axis is already within 50mm of the bottom. Is there any way of achieving this? I found this: prusa forum thanks
  5. Hello everyone! I am the proud owner of a UM2. I have been using this printer for five years now with very little to no problems at all. Unfortunately, yesterday morning I switched the printer ON as usual and to my surprise I received a warning message showing a "Z switch broken" error. I kind of knew from the beginning that the switch wasn't the issue. However, just to be sure, I checked the switch on both Pronterface and the multimeter. As expected it works perfectly. Now, after reading a few discussion on this forum I realised that it could be a problem with the stepper motors. So I tried the following: 1. Move every motor (including the extruder) on Pronterface, no response. 2. Check bed and nozzle heater, they work perfectly. 3. Check the voltage across the K1 relay, I get 4.9V between 1-2, 24.5V between 2-NO and 2-C, 0V 2-NC. I hear it clicking. I also added a wire to connect C with NO. Nothing changed. 4. Checked a few TPs. They all show the correct voltage. 5. Reset to factory settings. 6. Uploaded a new firmware. 7. Power cycled the power supply. You guessed it right, none of them worked. What's next to try? Don't tell me to buy a new board 😢 Thank you! Fed
  6. Hallo Forum! Ich hoffe sehr auf die Hilfe der hier anwesenden Experten! Ich habe folgendes Problem mit meinem Ultimaker 2: Beim Drucken (PLA) hört man in unregelmäßigen Abständen (vielleicht ein, zwei Mal pro Minute) ein Ratschen/Klacken. Aus Erfahrung weiß ich und ich konnte erneut beobachten, dass in diesem Moment der Druck des Vorschubmotors auf das Filament zu stark wird und das Filament für wenige Millimeter zurückrutscht, am Schleifrad des Motors vorbei. Wenn die Düse verstopft ist, dann passiert sowas dauerhaft, das Filament wird an dieser Stelle schnell abgeschliffen und der Motor dreht quasi leer. Das ist bei mir aber NICHT das Problem. Wenn die Düse teilweise verstopft ist, müsste es beim Drucken ja eigentlich mehr oder weniger dauerhaft zu "Under Extrusion" kommen, richtig? Das ist bei mir aber nicht der Fall, außerdem habe ich in den letzten zwei Tagen mehrfach die Atomic-Methode angewandt und die Düse so (hoffentlich komplett?) gereinigt. Mein Druckergebnis ist zu ca. 70-90% in Ordnung, aber immer dann, wenn das Filament zurück rutscht, entsteht für ein paar Sekunden/Zentimeter Under Extrusion (logisch). Es scheint, als würde der Motor zu schnell laufen. Kann das überhaupt sein? Kann es im GCode, durch fehlerhaftes Slicing, zu widersprüchlichen Angaben kommen, so dass der Motor stärker dreht, als es Düse und Druckmodell eigentlich verlangen? Oder bin ich mit meiner Vermutung auf dem völlig falschen Dampfer und der Fehler steckt doch in einer tw. verdreckten Düse?? Hier ein Foto eines meiner Druckergebnisse:
  7. Hi All, There are probably loads of topics covering this, so if you could link them that would be great. OK, basically, the displayed temperature for the bed is reading higher than the actual temperature of the bed. What could be the cause? and how can I fix it? Cheers
  8. Hello, I have Ultimaker 2 (standard, without "+") and I have big problems with extrusion with not standard material or with fast speed. I would like to make upgrade to Bondtech or trianglelab extruder. Please let me know if Bondtech is worth to pay 4x more than trianglelab? Or triangle lab is good enough? I would like to also know if I need to buy new stepper motor to extruder (from 2+) or stock from UM2 will be enough? I can not find anywhere this stepper to buy. Please let me know how to proceed with that. By the way upgrade kit official from Ultimaker is not good enough for my needs. My second problem: very noise fan which is cooling heatblock - how and on what can I replace it? Thanks in advance for your support. Best regards. Remy
  9. Good evening to everyone, I'm fairly new to 3D printing. I've been learning about it for about a year and I've been printing on a nice Ultimaker 2 for a couple of months now. I'm brand new to the forum so I'd appreciate any help or any references to existing threads that may have already answered the following questions. (I've done a few searches but haven't had any luck yet). I've been using Gizmo Dorks Silk Blue PLA with great results after getting a feel for the best temps and support settings. But I just switched to Gizmo Dorks Gray PLA and my first print came out with supports that were significantly harder to remove than all my previous prints. Almost to the point of breaking of pieces of the print in trying to remove the supports. I've read that different colors can have slightly different properties, but this seems like a serious change. Is this kind of thing common when changing between colors? And if so, what would you recommend as far as changes to settings to compensate for it? I've attached the Project file for reference and my machine is currently set to 210 degrees C for PLA. Thank you. 01_stormtrooper-helmet_110sc_8.75Hr_86g.3mf
  10. Hi, I have been using my ultimaker 2 (recently purchased) with filamentive white PLA and its been printing fine with a few minor teething issues. I have managed to solve all of these and it was printing fine again. I did use white abs at the start but that was several months ago and I have printed perfectly fine since then. However, the nozzle now appears to be blocked and the atomic method just refuses to solve this issue, its incredibly frustrating as I really need the printer working as I am in my final year as an Architecture undergrad and everything has to be done from home at the minute. Do you have any suggestions as how to clear the nozzle? When i heat it up to 260 it does come through, but not as smoothly and evenly as possible. I have repeated the atomic test many times but with no result I have a new roll of filament which I can use, but I am reluctant to start it as I have a third of the other spool left. I have attached photos of the atomic pull (which doesn't look healthy), any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
  11. Hello, I am currently running Cura 4.6 and I don't seem to have the ability to edit material settings (print and build plate temperature, etc.). Maybe this is as simple as "your Ultimaker 2 doesn't support those settings" but despite my best efforts, I haven't been able to find a forum or topic that gives me an answer as clear as that. More on the issue: the material settings dropdown is there, but when I click to expand, nothing shows up, even though my setting visibility shows several of the default settings checked. I also don't have any of the default material profiles, nor can I download and install or create my own material profiles. I know I can control print and build plate temp directly through the machine during a print, but it would be nice if I could set this ahead of time in the software and not have to worry about it. If this is due to my UM2 not supporting those functions, is there any workaround? Any suggestions are appreciated.
  12. I'm a beginner! No wait, I need help. LOL I try to load a "plug in" and the base plate does not go all the way up to the nozzle. It ends up just going willie nillie on me. I bought this printer so I could make masks for family, not having any luck when I load the file. I've tried 4 times with same result. Thanks for any help. Oh, please remember, I am learning. Did I say I received this machine......yesterday. KarenB MPMU_medium_rowan3dprintedmask_v4.1 Cura.gcode
  13. New unit won't auto feed filament unless I push "up" on the feeder lever.
  14. blink60

    UM2 Bed sensor

    Bonjour, J'ai mon capteur de température qui m'affiche toujours la dernière valeur atteinte. Savez vous si on peut le ré-etalonner ou si mon plateau est hs ? Car je peux toujours lancer la chauffe cependant pour que ça chauffe je dois monter la température au dessus de celle que le capteur m'indique, forcement ... Je pense que la résistance qui compose le capteur doit être naze, mais si il y a une solution pour me permettre de travailler en attendant mon nouveau plateau, je suis preneur. Merci d'avance pour votre aide.
  15. Hi Folks, I've seen so many times that the double wire (+ and -) 24 VDC used for the heat bed become burned, this frequently occur on the heat bed connect block or on the block at main PCB. Ultimaker changed those screw terminal blocks later on in the production and I'm not sure if there is some blocks of this new spring tension blocks that has failed. However, there is a fix for anything so lets go.. Those terminal blocks are really well selected as they are designed to cope with up to 20 Ampere! So what is the problem? Well, since we are using less than half of this max current we do not need this "heavy" wires, so the wires selected might only need to take about ~ 10 Amps max.. So the selected wire is well AWG 18 (cannot confirm this, but should at least be), can cope with 10 Amps continuously and intermittent up to 16 Amps. As this block terminal can handle 20 Amps, the contact surface clamping area is big - for a single AWG 18 wire. In order to increase the contact area we often use the fold back method, this in order to increase the number of strands that is clamped into the contact area. By doing this, the contact resistance decrease and heat build up is avoided here. Here is some pictures: Here is a picture of how to do this. The orange wire is AWG 18 and the red is AWG 14 (hold 20 Amps Continiously). Here is the AWG 18 fully folded.. Here is the specs for the screw terminal block at Phoenix Contact web site in US. Can be found any places.. Here is the terminal block. Thanks Torgeir.
  16. So, I'll keep this quick while giving all the necessary details, the my prints, for the past few weeks all of the sudden started making this horrible gear grinding noise, so, I googled how to fix this issue and the first time I tightened some little screw-bolts for the X-axis (which is the issue, the X-axis was shifting) it worked. Then a few days later it started up again. The print I'm showing was probably the best print I got out of the issue, but there was worse. I just didn't take a picture of them. My issue is that 1. the whole X-axis print is shifting left, only left, 2. The screw-bolt that tightens the 20 tooth bore is stripped to the bone and can't be taken out nor tightened. And everything else seems to be just fine. Here are some pictures:
  17. Hi all, Our UM2 is stuck/making a grinding noise on Y-travel, also can't move it manually. All good on X. None of the belts are visually slipping when the noise happens, and all are tensioned well. Any one had/fixed the same issue, or got any tips or advice? Thanks
  18. Hello, After years of useful info in this forum i end up making an account because i need help: my Ultimaker 2 is making a scratch sound, after hours of investigation i found that it is the X-axis in the hot-end-carriage that is ''scratching'' the linear bearing when moving backward? is that possible? when i look at the slider-block it is moving up and down with the past of the axis it is sliding on. I noticed the axis on the front side is also moving but just the tiniest bit. Video of the slider block and the scratching sound: all belts are on tension and i tighten all pulley. Any idea?
  19. I love my personal Ultimaker 2 and that workhorse is not for sale. But a friend of mine bought a new unit for his son. Well his son did not get infected with printing so I'm selling his nearly new unit. I have all the original boxes and documentation. The unit has printed roughly 10% of its first roll of PLA. That is all that has been used on this unit. The hours reflect this low usage. The unit is very clean, I have not cleaned this up at all. It looks this good because it is. I have tested it and the unit works perfectly $1000 plus shipping from Louisville KY
  20. I barely purchased my UM2 and am printing my first ABS print. I used default settings for ABS that were pre-set in the UM2 and the default settings via cura, except I customized the support settings, which should be non-related to the issue and I am printing with a raft. The layer height selected was FINE .1 default settings had the print speed at 50mm ABS used is IC3D. used glue on the glass and no warping so far, so that is not an issue at this time. bed has been leveled prior to print so that should not be an issue. Ive tried tweaking the settings mid print, and brought the nozzle temp down from 260 to 250, and material flow from 107% down to 100% as I figured it was possibly an issue of over extrusion. I have just now decided to turn off the fans as the default settings had the fans on at 40%. Now the print quality isn't terrible, but I also own a zortrax m200 and printing at a layer height of .14 on that machine with ABS, I get much smoother prints. Since Im using settings on the Ultimaker 2 at .1 layer height, I assumed it would be better quality or at the very least, hard to tell the difference between the two. This is not the case and the UM2 print seems to be printing with slightly uneven layers as the print lines are extremely noticeable. I will include pics to show what I mean and hopefully i can get some tips from those that would know. Thank you for any help you guys can provide.
  21. Hello, I work without problems with cura 4.3.0 appimage in Linux Mint 19.1 Cinnamon kernel Linux 4.15.0-88 with an Ultimaker 2 printer with an Olsson block. Cura 4.4.0, 4.4.1 and 4.5.0 appimage have always crashed at boot time since their release. I hadn't had time to go deeper. Today I decided to run version 4.5.0 and reset all Cura configurations (mv ~/.config/cura ~/.config/cura.old and mv ~/.local/share/cura ~/.local/share/cura.old) on my PC. I have started cura 4.5.0 appimage without any problems I have reinstalled all the plug-ins I use . My problem is that I can't tell cura 4.5.0 that the printer has an Ollson block... in Preferences/Configure Cura/Printer no Select upgrades button No " "Advanced” settings tab" as described here https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/18022-setting-up-cura Thank you for your help.
  22. Hi forum, I have an E3D v6 on an Ultimaker 2. The electronics on it are the Ultimainboard 2.1.1 and the power supply's output is 24V 9.2A 221W Max. After having heat fluctuation issues I attempted to fix them with PID Autotuning but the problems remained. I did some searching here in the forum and read on one of the topics that a higher power heat cartridge could solve the problem. So I changed the ~20 Ohm heat cartridge that was running on 24V. I placed a 4.2 Ohm heat cartridge and in the firmware I changed the PID_MAX setting to 64. I reflashed the firmware and everything seemed to be working. With a multimeter I measured the voltage across to the new heat cartridge and it always stays below 7V when I heat up the nozzle in maintenance mode. Everything works in maintenance mode. I am able to heat up the nozzle up to the desired temperature. However if I try to print a file from the SD card the printer begins to heat up then shuts down. I also tried running PID Autotune with Printrun after installing the 4.2 Ohm resistor and got a PID Autotune failure message back saying the temperature got too high. I set the autotune gcode to 180C and monitored the temperature on the Ultimaker's LCD screen. The temperature shot up to 190C during the autotune attempt. Also the Ultimainboard seems to shut off right after the bed has reached it's temperature and the nozzle heat up is triggered to start. The red LED indicating that the nozzle circuit is on flashes on right before the board shuts off. Has anyone had this problem? How can I know if I'm drawing too much current and triggering some sort of protection designed into the electronics? Do I need a power supply with a higher rating? Thanks for the help.
  23. Update 5/5/2020 All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725 Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assembly friendly but the design really rocks. So, for now just photos. Oh also UM3 Core version for um2 zgemark2, Gudo is testing it just now the first designs. It will only need 2 fans for the print cooling but each head will have his 5v fan. The fans are very easy to assemble or remove and every part is modular. The clip system uses a 'spring-magnet' system, that so far looks amazing but need's testing. Also the print precision will be really crucial on the clip system. Also Gudo moved the bed, by changing the screw points, this gives a 1cm area for the hotends to rest, so they don't need to rampup/rampdown while park/unpark. Also the magnet clip system allows for smooth removal to avoid any misstep lost or shift on movement forces. I'll share more when I know more I have printed a full version but my reseller doesn't have um2 3 aluminium parts in stock so I'm waiting for other source arrival to start assembling it. @Gudo will post more about this soon. Also since the files are on my dropbox, if anyone wants to beta test, PM me with your email so I give you read access. Edit. At the moment I can’t test this, I have all printed, but my agenda is getting fill of stuff to test and work.
  24. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty. **** I used two materials for testing, Extrudr TPU Soft and Ninjaflex, both 85A. I used the regular feeder from the UM2+ , combined with a pancake stepper motor (LDO-42STH25-1404MAC#190920) this stepper is less than half the weight of the normal stepper. I had to cut some length of the shaft to make it fit. The stepper has a different # steps per rotation and as it's impossible to change the steps setting for the S5 on one feeder it needs compensation in flow (200% flow = 100%) Obviously the result is a crazy top heavy setup, but if you just want to print an occasional gasket it should be fine, specially since you need to print materials this flexible very slow (15 mm/s) anyhow. On an Ultimaker2 the extra weight is enormous, on the S5 not so much as it's very heavy already anyhow. The nice thing is you can see into the feeder so during testing it's easy to spot when the feeder can't cope if you try to speed it up to much. If something goes wrong it's mainly during the first few layers, so watch them... otherwise you'll spend a few minutes again taking the feeder apart... To validate the basic setup I printed regular PLA on both converted machines, to make sure the setup (including changed steps/flow due to different motor) was correct. On the UM2 head the ninjaflex was pretty easy to get working, i managed to print with constant and reliable extrusion using a 0.4 nozzle. The materials prints best around (I tested with 0.15 layers) Flow : 110-115 % (with feeder tension set to lowest point) Temperature : 210 c Speed : 15 to 20 mm/s The easiest way to test temperature and flow is by printing simple cilinders, foir the S5 you can use the "tune" menu to play with values on the fly. Getting ninjaflex to work on the S5 proved to be more difficult than on the UM2, at the same settings using an 0.4 mm nozzle prints failed all the time, it seems the CORE, is much more of a challenge that a UM2 setup. I blame the longer filament path, and the metal tube of the core. Only when I changed to the 0.8 nozzle and the CC0.6 I was able to get reliable results. My main S5 tests are with the CC0.6, atm my best results are with the following settings; The S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates. Layer height 0,15 Initial layer height 0,25 Top/bottom pattern & Innitial layer pattern ; concentric (avoid lot's of small lines, head vibration) Innitial printing temperature/ innitial layer : 230c Printing teperature : 215c Skirt/Brim flow 140% (= realy 70%, due to the different stepper motor) Innitial layer flow 150% (= realy 75%, due to the different stepper motor) Flow 225% (= 2x the real flow, due to the different stepper motor) Print speed 15 mm/s Innitial layer speed, Skirt/Brim speed 10mm/s Cooling at 100%, start with 20% and let it rise over 10 layers) Turn off the flow sensor (in the settings menu) on the S5, as you're not using that feeder.. Conclusion, even if you eliminate the bowden, printing 85A flex on an Ultimaker S5 is still a bit of a challenge. The used feeder (UM2+UM3 model) and filament path are not ideal. But, usually if you make it past the first few layers, and have relatively simple prints that keep the flow going it's very well possible to print ninjaflex on the S5. I have not experimented a lot with it jet, but I also managed a simple test print using PLA for support on the 2th extruder. the hardware hack; The feeder plate mounts to 3 screws of the head, so you can leave one and the head will stay assembled during mounting. I made a little breakout plug for the left stepper motor on the back of the printer, so I can change between direct and bowden in just a few minutes. I just leave the black mounting plate on the head. In needed to make a hole in the bottom plate for the DIY extension cable. I isolated the plug with hot glue. some side notes; Cura can sometimes create fantastic vibrator g-codes, not nice with this heavy setup, so one thing you can do to prevent this is to change line fill to cylindrical fill, and check the layer preview. ninjaflex openRC wheel, printed on S5 extrudr TPU soft (85A just like ninjaflex) gasket, printed on S5 S5 stl's S5_FlexDirect.zip
  25. Caro25

    upgrade UM2

    Bonjour à tous, Je me pose une question existentielle: J'ai une imprimante UM2 depuis 4 ans, et je me demande si je m'offrirais le "upgrage extrusion kit"... Pour info, je viens d'achter 2 imprimantes UM3 à mon boulot. Je n'ai donc pas l'intention d'acheter une UM3 pour la maison à court terme, car, je l'avoue, si je dois imprimer quelque chose avec une UM3, je le ferai probablement avec une du boulot. Qu'en pensez-vous? Cela vaut la peine?
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