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  1. Hallo, bei Drucken über 7h friert bei ca 4h das Display ein, der UM2 druckt zwar bis zum Ende bleibt aber über dem Bauteil stehen, Druckbett bleibt auch an Ort und Stelle, Nozzle und Druckbett heizen weiter. Fährt quasi nicht in die Homeposition. Ich drucke meist Sachen unter 5h, da ist alles ok MfG
  2. Hallo alle zusammen, ich drucke seit einigen Jahren mit dem UM2 und habe noch nie größere Probleme damit gehabt. Neulich hat er beim Drucken angefangen ein seltsames Geräusch von sich zu geben. Dabei fuhr die Z-Achse bei jeder neuen Schicht normal weiter runter aber dann jedes Mal ein bisschen zurück. Er druckte das Teil anstandslos fertig und ließ sich beim nächsten Druckversuch aber nicht mehr zum Druck überreden. Dabei kam dann die Meldung "Z-Switch broken". Also habe ich einen neuen eingebaut aber das Problem bestand weiterhin. Im Menu wollte ich dann die Platte mal rauf- und w
  3. hey guys, i have an UM2 and i did 2 days ago an cura ultimaker 2 firmware update via usb B cable. to my printer. and it looks like nothing happend but when i tried to print something. the feeder wend backwards so back to the roll of filament. and when i wand to chance filament the feeder puts it in first and after that it heets up and then he pulls it back agen. and when de extruder is in the midde of the bult plate or some were els then when you start them print the printer wil go brake it self to the wall. and when the bult plate is not on the ground then the buld plate wil crus
  4. Hallo liebe Mitstreiter, ich habe vor ca. 6 Monaten einen gebrauchten Ultimaker 2 erworben und bin seitdem aufmerksamer Leser dieses Forums. Als Anfänger konnte ich seitdem viele Probleme mit Hilfe der hier veröffentlichten Beiträge lösen, womit den vielen Usern mit ihren Beiträgen meinen Dank gilt. Allerdings habe ich jetzt mit meinem Ultimaker ein Problem, welches ich offensichtlich mit den bisher hier veröffentlichten Beiträgen nicht gelöst bekomme. Wie anhand des Videos (siehe unten Dropbox-Link) zu erkennen ist, verbleibt beim Drucken von TPU-Filament seit 2 Tagen der Tisch na
  5. Birk

    UM2 Marlin 2.0 ?

    Kurz und knapp Gibt es wo eine fertige Marlin 2 Firmenware für den UM2 ? Mit 1,75 Filament .. link wäre super Gruß
  6. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for b
  7. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train,
  8. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
  9. Bonjour à tous, Je viens vers vous pour essayer de régler mon problème de porte-à-faux. Je n'aime pas embêter la communauté avec des problèmes "récurrents" mais malgré tous les postes trouvés je n'arrive pas à comprendre le pourquoi du problème. J'imprime en 0.08 sur une Ultimaker 2+ en impression PLA et sur toutes mes impressions, je n'ai jamais réussi à imprimer un porte-à-faux de 45°, alors qu'il est souvent écrit que ça ne doit poser problème à aucune machine. Ma dernière en date est un cristal : Et biensur mon image s'upload à l'envers ... Sinon on peut voir en zoomant (
  10. Okay weird problem here, I removed my olsson heater tip and when I turned my UM2 on to heat it and put the tip back in the lights start flickering and the machine suddenly shuts off then restarts and sits at the home screen. If I try to heat up the nozzle at all it flickers and dies. I can heat up the buildplate no problem but if I set the nozzle even one degree up it flickers and dies. So is the problem most likely a short in the heater element or thermistor?
  11. Bonjour à tous, Vous allez vous dire, encore un nouveau qui n'a pas réglé son plateau ni regardé ses paramètres, ni regardé si un topic existait déjà... Nouveau, ici je le suis effectivement. Mais j'ai écumé pas mal de topics, forums, vidéos ici et ailleurs et je n'ai pas trouvé de solutions à mon problème. Contexte : Je suis en train de me fabriquer une CN avec de nombreuses pièces imprimées en PLA. J'ai une Ultimaker 2 (oui elle commence à dater un peu) Je n'ai jamais touché aux réglages de base. J'utilise les derniers firmwares. Et comme
  12. Bonjour à tous, Je vous écris suite à un problème: mon ultimaker 2 ne s’allume et ne répond plus. J’ai lancé une impression, et 1h après, elle s’est arrêtée et éteinte. Depuis, je n’arrive plus à l’allumer, elle est pourtant branchée et la LED bleue de l’alimentation est allumée et stable. Avez vous déjà fait face à ce problème? J’ai contacté Makershop, j’attends leur réponse. Pour info, l’imprimante date de 2015, et je n’ai jamais eu de problèmes auparavant (sauf changer la piece en teflon). Je vous remercie par avance, Agathe
  13. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps o
  14. I have just acquired this machine and the hotend will not heat. The hotend heat cartridge is not open and I believe the control board is the issue. So without purchasing unassay parts, I have ohmed out the cartridge and is is not open, tested for output voltage on the control board HEAT1 but got 0. My question is can I used HEAT2? I have some experience in Marlin and can re-assign the pins, But is the Marlin firmware the proper firmware to use on this machine, as I can not find UM firmware that is in a base code, I can only find the HEX versions. Any help would be greatly welcomed..
  15. I want to print in the air without calibrating. Kind of a Z offset is needed. I tried changing the height of the object (unmarked the auto drop option) but it prints on the surface or it needs support.
  16. I never thought i would be saying this but im having underextusion issues on my um2 with a bondtech qr extruder. I think its a problem with the firmware though. I prefer tinker firmware so i am using that instead of the bondtech firmware. I think its a problem with the esteps value. Ive tried "printing" a gcode file with the Esteps command and also pronterface but both don't seem to work. Is there a way to directly check if the esteps value was uploaded and saved? Or is there way i can modify tinker firmware and change the esteps value and the loading speed? Or am i doing something completely
  17. I want to install TinkerGnome on my UM2+ printer. And this because I read that this gives more possibilities. I downloaded the correct version but can't install it because cura doesn't see the printer. Do I need to install any special equipment on my PC (work with a Mac and Big Sur OS)? Thank you in advance. In the meantime I've already looked into why it can't connect but don't come any further. Tried the following things today but also no connection: Older PC mer WiN7, but no success, a message "unrecognized device" but no comport. Also tried another (read older) version of Cura
  18. I have a UM2 and I want to buy another Bondtech Qr feeder. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/bondtech-qr-extruder/sk/M4KZR03V Will this one work? Its not part of the Ultimaker 2 upgrade kit, so I wasn't sure if it would fit. It doesn't include the 3d printed parts so I can just 3d print those. I can also just buy the nuts and bolts but can I just use the same stepper motor wiring I use for my current extruder?
  19. I recently got a new bondtech feeder and changed the heater(25w) and sensor on my um2 to the ones for the um2+(35w). How do I modify my firmware to match these modifications.
  20. Machine: UM2, mark 2 upgrade, olsson block I recently did the mark 2 upgrade and will use the second nozzle for dissolvable supports(PVA). I am worried that the PVA sitting in the nozzle will mess it up. Apparently, the ultimaker 3 BB core has a internal geometry allowing it to print PVA well. Is this really an issue and are there nozzles capable of printing PVA that will fit in my UM2(M6 threads, 2.85mm)?
  21. Bonjour, Tout d'abord, désolé si le sujet a déjà était abordé, mais après de longues recherches, je n'ai malheureusement rien trouvé! Je suis entrain de faire des roue de rouages pour une horloge, je les fais sur Sketchup 2018, mais une fois importée sur Cura 4.8, il me remplis automatiquement le centre des roues et m'imprimer ce "contour" que vous voyez sur l'image. J'ai vu quelques topics parler de "reverse face", sans grand succès pour ma part. J'ai beaucoup chercher dans les options de Cura, mais je n'ai rien trouvé non plus, je m'en remet donc a vous! Si quelqu'un saura
  22. Hola, soy usuario de una impresora Ultimaker 2 y le cuesta extruir un ABS+ el cual es un abs que necesita un poco más de temperatura para que fluya bien, lo sé porque el mismo filamento se imprime correctamente en una Zortrax M200 a 270°C, lo único que sé es que se debe cambiar la pieza de PTFE por otra igual de un material más resistente al calor, sobre lo demás no sé si deben cambiar más piezas, así como editar el software para que me permita elevar la temperatura, si alguien lo ha hecho, le estaré muy agradecido si comparte su experiencia, saludos.
  23. Hi folks im back again with another plate n polish test. And my first time with support material since cura 15 and boy what a difference. Much better printing all in one as i only spent about an hour cleaning it up and i forgot to even sand it down lightly to remove the subtle layer lines after the acetone. Slightly annoyed but hey it a test! The other was printed in loads of parts and glued which in time i see it has split and the filler has come away. It took me many hours of filler and sanding to make and a total waste of my time. Ill be printing with support from now on! No pro
  24. Update 5/5/2020 All Gudo Mark 2 work is up. There are 2 versions UM2 hotend and Gudo favourite one, a version that uses UM3 cores Have fun, and remember to share, make and think with passion, just like Gudo did. Cheers! https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4203725 Gudo agreed on sharing this early beta designs. As soon I get more time I'll upload the um2hotend Beta (NO INSTRUCTIONS FOR NOW) if someone is brave enough to use the ZGE with Mark 2. It uses a 4dia 3mm depth magnets and it uses 31 for a full 2 head setup. So, isn't assemb
  25. When I startup my Ultimaker it default temperature is 50 degrees. This causes bad extrusion of course. Do I need to buy a new temp sensor? or is something else wrong? Thanks
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