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Found 222 results

  1. Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  2. Bonjour à tous, je suis nouveau sur le site et dans l'utilisation de mon Ultimaker 2. J'ai un souci de cordage et de pâtés comme le montre la photo ci-jointe. J'utilise du PLA chauffé à 200° et la vitesse d'impression est de 2500 mm/min (environ 40m/s). Merci de votre aide.
  3. Hi all! Is anyone selling a used Ultimaker 2, 2+ and 3 in the UK? Looking to update my current printer. Cheers!
  4. Hallo hat die Firmware schon wer getestet? Gibt es seit November aber Pre Release. Habe einen Ultimaker 2+ und bin noch auf 17.10.1
  5. Hello together, after building a custom custom frame for an UM2 Link and make several test's with dual printing system's, I decided to make a test with an Cyclops extruder clone. At first I started with the firmware because i will use only 1 heater and only an resistor from the tempsensor of the second unused heater. What's done for the moment? - Printing: GCODE hotend changed with M104 and M109 changes every time the temperature of the hotend 0 independently of the temperature is set for E0 or E1. In the picture you can see that heater 1 is heating und steps of heater 2 changes - Cleaning print menu Temperatur 2 is removed but material flow 1 and 2 are still available - Material change for second nozzle changed, now it heat's hotend 1 with the temperature of the material 2 - Changing the function of advanced maintence At first step i changed the function of heatup of the second nozzle. Changing this temp changes the temp of the first heater. - Changing the function move material 2 in advanced maintence If it's selected it changes the temp of hotend 1 with the temp of material 2 and when the temp ist arrived I can move the material 2 (E2) - Build a Cura 3.3.1 printer configuration (I modified the config of Link) What are the next steps? - Finishing the cleaning of advanced maintence (remove heatup secondary nozzle, it's a little big trickier as I thought) - Check if it's possible to deactivate the error for the missing Tempsensor, if not a potentiometer should work great ? - Build and mod the printer, make test's and show the finished build here (parts are ordered and I'm waiting) ? - Show the prints here and on my homepage - Make a documentation of the build (mod), will publish the documentation here @ SeoGeo_de - Publish the Marlin code on Github Needed parts: - Change filament size to 1.75 mm - 2 new extruder requiered with 1.75 mm support - 1 new Steppermotor for E2 - Cyclops V2 printhead and a few small parts At last known issues / specification - GCODE has to be Marlincode, with Ultimaker code it don't work (for me no problem because I use octoprint) - I can't check in Marlin if the GCODE sent temp is the print temp or the standby temp, so I have to set for the standbytemp the printing temp of the other material. Example: Extruder 1 PLA Extruder 2 ABS Print temp 200°C 240°C Standbay temp 240°C 200°C If somebody know how I can detect if the send temp is printtemp or standbytemp, this step can be ignored - Change the filament size to 1.75 mm (I didn't found an Cyclops with 2.85 mm) If somebody have questions or can help me with my issues, please answer here or write me a pm. Sorry for my english I hope all can understand what i have wrote. Bye Daniel
  6. trooperlite

    Problem with overlap?

    Hello, I have an Ultimaker 2 at my office which I successfully used in the past. However, recently it's been having a problem where it slips at the point where it begins the print. Because of this, that corner doesn't stick to the print bed. Any insight?
  7. Hi Everyone, Back with another issue! This time on the Ultimaker 2 though. I had a print on today and went to check it and there was a banging noise that I could hear from outside the room. When I went to the printer I could see that the print had failed and that the printhead was only moving left to right and not up and down. After I had aborted the print, I tried to move the printhead myself and it is fine moving from left to right but I can't move it up and down, it seems to be completely jammed somehow. Even applying a bit of force it won't budge much. There was no error message, and was still printing fine from left to right. Any ideas as to what has happened and how it might be fixed? Thank you!
  8. Martin49

    Ultimaker 2 hors service

    Bonjour, Aujourd'hui, en cours d'impression mon imprimante s'est totalement coupé. L'appui sur l'interrupteur général arrière ne change rien. Je vais démonter le carter de protection du circuit imprimé principal pour voir ce qu'il en est mais quelqu'un aurait-il eu ce problème ??? Merci pour votre aide!
  9. herbert

    Temperatur zu niedrig

    Hallo, ich drucke seit einiger Zeit mir dem Olssen Block Ultimaker 2, ich glaube aber, dass die gemessenen Temperatur und die tatsächliche an der Düse nicht übereinstimmt, vorher druckte ich PLA mit 210°C, jetzt reichen 260°C nicht mehr, das Filament schmilzt zu langsam, ABS lässt sich überhaupt nicht mehr drucken. Kann man die Temperatur kalibireren ode einen offset einstellen? Vielen Danke
  10. Hallo Community, ich habe folgendes Problem: Der Druck haftet gut am Druckbett, allerdings nicht in der rechten hinteren Ecke von vorne aus gesehen. Das heißt, je weiter ich das zu druckende Teil in Cura nach hinten und rechts verschiebe, desto größer die Ablösung während des Drucks. In einem relativ großen Bereich davor tritt dieses Problem nicht auf. Habe vorhin auch eine Temperaturmessung mit einem Infrarotlaser gemacht, dabei aber keine Ungleichverteilung festgestellt, außer dass es in der Mitte ein paar wenige Grad wärmer ist. Hat oder hatte schonmal jemand von euch dieses Problem? Meine Daten: Ultimaker 2 ABS-Filament Druckbetttemperatur 100 °C Wärmeisolation durch Klappe vorne und Haube obendrauf Druck erfolgt direkt auf die Glasplatte Druckplattenhaftungstyp Brim Ich hoffe ihr könnt mein Problem verstehen und freue mich auf hilfreiche Antworten 🙂 Danke schonmal MarraM
  11. I'm using the Ultimaker 2, and I changed the value of the printing temperature to 220°C, because it didn't print at 210°C, so all the print setup is like this: Layer height: 0.15mm Priting temperature: 220°C Build Plate temperature: 60°C Print speed: 42 mm/s So with this values I printed the 3D Benchy, but the layers are not looking good. I didn't care that it looked like that, beacause at least it was printing. So I tried to print a bigger piece that was like a cone, with 180mm of the maximum diameter, but it failed at 7mm of height and stopped printing. My next attempt was this piece, that is below, with this print setup: Layer height: 0.15mm Priting temperature: 230°C Build Plate temperature: 60°C Print speed: 30 mm/s But it keeps priting bad quality of layers, so I don't know what can be wrong with the printer or the print setup.
  12. rohanrege

    Help with Ultimaker 2.

    Hello, I'm trying to use the ultimaker 2 in my lab but the prints are quite ugly. I'm not an expert in 3D printing. I'm using mostly default settings on cura 3.6 with layer height at 0.2 and gradual infill. What seems to be the problem here?? The supports are also very hard to remove. Can anyone please help?? Rohan
  13. Coucou? Je viens vers vous pour vous exposer un problème survenu au fur et à mesure sur deux de mes machines, quasiment en même temps. Je ne sais pas si je suis devenu parano, mais j'ai remarqué depuis quelques temps que la tête d'impression dans son ensemble se met à avoir sérieusement chaud. Je remarque également depuis ce même lapse de temps que j'ai quelques irrégularités dans mon extrusion. Malgré tout, à l'affichage, la température semble stable. 2 hypothèses : - Ma buse touche la structure en métal de la tête d'impression : la chaleur se dissipe anormalement, la sonde m'indique toujours la bonne température mais il n'en est rien. La résistance de chauffe doit pousser plus fort que nécessaire pour atteindre la température ; l'irrégularité s'installe, et ça va pas du tout du tout du tout. - Il me manque cette graisse "cuivrée" entre le réceptacle en métal de l'isolant téflon et la pièce métallique carrée d'environ 3x3cm de la structure de la tête. Au fur et à mesure des démontages successifs, je n'en ai plus suffisamment à cet endroit. Je m'interroge et remet mon ignorance entre vos mains : peut-être cette graisse a-t-elle pour but justement d'isoler la buse qui transpire à 210°C du reste de la tête d'impression ? Si oui, quel en est donc la référence et où en trouver ? Un grand merci comme toujours. Antoine
  14. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  15. I have an Ultimaker2 with Tinkergnome software. Recently i noticed strange behavior in the preheat menu. When I set the nozzle temperature to 10 degrees in the menu and i want to reset it to 0 with G-command "M104 S0" from USB, the setting goes to 160 degrees. In another case I saw it go to 200 degrees. I don't have the latest version of Tinker. I can not update because of partly broken USB-chip. Is this a known bug? If I send "M104 S1" it works fine. My response to M115: FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin Ultimaker2; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/Ultimaker PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Ultimaker EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
  16. While printing at 260C the machine suddenly shut down and I thought it was a fuse in the plug source, but when checked there was still power at the power supply and the DC plug to printer. Any suggestions what to check next? Machine is all black no power up.
  17. Hallo an alle, ich bin aktuell mit Marlin 1.1.9 am experimentieren und würde gerne einen Servo über den Anschluss J26 ansteuern, der eine "Switching Nozzle" betätigt. Komme aber mit der Konfiguration nicht weiter. Hat hier jemand mit der Servoansteuerung und Pinbelegung Erfahrung? Mit der Programmiersprache bin ich nicht so sehr vertraut, versuche mir jetzt etwas anzueignen... Folgender Fehlermeldung bekomme ich in der ArduinoIDE: Arduino: 1.8.7 (Mac OS X), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)" sketch/Marlin_main.cpp: In function 'void move_nozzle_servo(uint8_t)': Marlin_main.cpp:12132:53: error: 'MOVE_SERVO' was not declared in this scope MOVE_SERVO(SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR, angles[90]); ^ exit status 1 'MOVE_SERVO' was not declared in this scope In Configuration.h // A dual-nozzle that uses a servomotor to raise/lower one of the nozzles #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE #if ENABLED(SWITCHING_NOZZLE) #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_NR 0 #define SWITCHING_NOZZLE_SERVO_ANGLES { 0, 90 } // Angles for E0, E1 #define HOTEND_OFFSET_Z { 0.0, 0.0 } #endif #define NUM_SERVOS 1 // Servo index starts with 0 for M280 command // Delay (in milliseconds) before the next move will start, to give the servo time to reach its target angle. // 300ms is a good value but you can try less delay. // If the servo can't reach the requested position, increase it. #define SERVO_DELAY { 300 } // Only power servos during movement, otherwise leave off to prevent jitter #define DEACTIVATE_SERVOS_AFTER_MOVE --------------------------- pins_ULTIMAIN_2.h #define SERVO0_PWM_PIN 13
  18. Cheo

    Feeder problems

    The feeder works fine when changing material or inserting material but when you try to print you can see it and hear it moving but no material comes out. Clogged nozzle was discarded using the atomic method. Thanks in advanced.
  19. Cheo

    Alimentador

    El alimentador funciona tanto para extraer el material o filamento como para entrar el material nuevo. Sin embargo, a la hora de imprimir se escucha y se ve movimiento pero no sale material. Descartado que la boquilla esté tapada porque le apliqué el "método atómico" sin problema.
  20. lekid

    Bed Remote Box

    Version 1.0.0

    14 downloads

    Creation of a small box for a bed remote.Printed in Centaur PP from Formfutura. Specs : Printer : UM2 + bondtech feeder + Olsson Bloc Material : Centaur PP (polypropylène) de Formfutura Nozzle : 0.6mm Layer Height : 300microns Speed : 40mm/s Wall : 2mm Supports : Everywhere at 50° and 20% Fan Speed : 100% Printing Time : 3h10 I used brown PP scotch for the bed adhesion.
  21. Hello fellow Ultimaker enthusiasts, This week I was installing a new temperature probe and heater into my UM2. When I took the control board down, I noticed some brownish areas around the microsteppers (thanks Shannon at 3DVerkstan support for the info!). Also the capacitors at C60 and C64 appear to be burnt or scorched (small red circles) Anybody else seen this? Tried to repair it? If I look at the schematics on github, it looks like these are 4,7 uF capacitors, and my guess is that they are part of a voltage smoothing circuit. The reason I ask is the replacement board is quite pricey, and since the printer has been in fairly heavy usage since 2015, might make sense to put that money towards a replacement machine rather than a new board... Thank you for any comments or suggestions, M
  22. PhilDesign

    Lüfter Anschluss J14 kaputt

    Habe aus versehen einen Kurzschluss gemacht am Port J14 für die Lüfter vom Druckkopf. Kann man das noch reparieren indem man irgendwelche SMD Bauteile austauscht?
  23. Hi all! After a strange noise during printing the Forbidden Watchtower by Kjai I paused, resume and paused again and quit this print. Looks like it also cause a layer shift: Video_UM2(+)Noise_14seconds / google drive What's going on here? By the way I'm using UM2(+) printer, Simplify3D v4 and thinkerMarlin 17.10.1 as firmware 1: Bearing problem? 2: Lack of lubrication on XY the axles? It's tought to move with printer shutted down. 3: Slicer problem? In preview looks fine. Firmware problem? 4: Belt? Everything seems in place. 5: None of the above ?
  24. I broke accidentally short circuit the fan port j14 (cooling fans). Is the any way to repair the port by soldering an SMD part? Right now I am using the led port for the fans ? Ultiumaker Board rev. 2.1.4
  25. BrayChristopher

    Olsson Block Help

    We have an UM2. I finally upgraded the hot block to an Olsson hot block and Micro Swiss Wear Resistant Nozzle. Of course, now the UM2 and I look like we both forgot how to print things. I had to raise the temp to print PLA. Is this normal? PETG is making me lose my mind. I used to get good prints like this. Now it looks like this It is hard to see, but the hairs and bumpy surface happen where the "base" of the part stops and the "walls" start. It is easier to see this on this larger part. Here is a section view. I am using Simplify 3D and always have. Same materials. I didn't change any of the settings during this print. This artifact does not align with the layer that the fans start (50%). Any ideas??? Please and thanks. Also, I was getting temp errors so I wrapped up the hot block in ceramic wool. Is that normal? Is there a magic nozzle that doesn't stick to PETG? Gross.
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