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Found 53 results

  1. Hi We currently have 2 printers - an Ulti 2 (upgraded to 2+) and a Ulti 2+ Extended. We have budget approved to get another machine but I am not sold that the Ulti 3 Extended is better value for money over a 2+Extended. The Pros v Cons for an Ulti 3 over an Ulti 2+ as I see it are: Pros ability to print dissolvable supports ability to print in 2 colours Cons more expensive slower print speed due to extra weight of the dual print head slower print speed due to printing dual filament slightly reduced print area size due to larger print head dissolvable support filament is twice as expensive as normal filament Pretty much our most critical factor is time. From what I have read, the Ulti 3 is slower than an Ulti 2+ on a like for like print, due to the extra weight of the print head (slower movements to compensate for the extra weight). We also print almost exclusively in white PLA filament, so apart from dissolvable support material I don't see much use for 2 colour prints. But easily over 90% of what we do print does not require the use of support material, so the majority of the time dissolvable supports would not be of benefit. It also seems to me that the Ulti 3 is also a bit more fussy than the Ulti 2+? It is obviously a more complicated machine than the Ulti 2+. Just wondering if I am missing anything? Just wondering if those who have or have had both an Ulti 2+/3 could perhaps relay there experiences of using them. I am prepared to be swayed but at the moment can't see that the Ulti 3 would be a clear improvement for us over the 2+ 🙂
  2. I recently added a 10-Watt laser to my UM2E+ printer. I also have a UM3E printer, which I used to print parts to do this. I have carefully enclosed the printer, ventilated it to outside, added OD3+ door and window for safety, coupled with wearing OD3+ goggles. I've attached a photo of the setup. It functions re asonably well, using both Inkscape and T2Laser software packages. What I would very much appreciate help with now has to do with the printer firmware. I see various comments about firmware mods for related purposes in the community, but I have no experience at all with the software packages mentioned. The particular items that would be most valuable are, first of all, a disabling of the firmware command causing the printer to home the head after each print job. That is no longer possible with the laser attached, since the laser mount would hit the wall just before it gets to the home position. What I do now is simply switch off the printer when it starts to head home. Other items would include the automatic "kickstart" for the fans, I'm using the fan control to provide the control of the laser power. The extra "flashes" when it goes up from zero are not desired. What would perhaps be most useful of all, though, would be the ability to see and control the X, Y, and Z values from the menu and to set the the X, Y, and Z limits that now exist because of the presence of the laser. I will be very interested in any comments or suggestions as to how I should proceed.
  3. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot 😃
  4. Hi, My company purchased last week an Ultimaker 2 Extended+. We have made few tests and we'are pretty pleased with the results. Except that when it goes from a contour to another (walls?!), the printer leaves some marks behind, see picture. I've looked on the Internet and people talk about changing the nozzle temperature and travel speed. I did that, without succes. The parts in the pictures are made after changes. before, with Cura Basic Settings was worse. Any advice? Thanks. IMG_185A: temp. 185ºC, travel speed 175mm/s IMG_190A: temp. 190ºC, travel speed 150mm/s IMG_190B: temp. 190ºC, travel speed 200mm/s
  5. Hello dear ultimaker community, Is there by chance a official full 3D model of an ultimaker 2+ Extended? Because I would like to build my own top and front cover and it would really help me if I have the model. Thanks in advance Me
  6. I'm about to change material on my ultimaker 2+ extended but just as i'm putting the material in the interface I see no option for PP. On this page https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus it's says it's not optimized for it and on this page https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility?utm_source=cura&utm_medium=software&utm_campaign=resources it's says that it can ???? My firmware is up to date also. Do I choose a random material and change it right before printing?
  7. Jeremi

    TPU95A support

    I would like to print a part in TPU95A on my UM2E+ but the part need to have support because of flat surface so i was wondering if the support can be in TPU95A?
  8. Jeremi

    Support placement

    I have the ultimaker 2+ extended but my question is more about the support section of Cura. Sometime I need support in place that are not touching the building plate but I have some small holes that doesn't need support so I was wondering if there was a option to choose individualy the place I need support and the place I don't?. I'll still use the automatic support finder that the software use when you see red at the support place but I would like to choose which one I want to keep.
  9. hey, So I'm trying to print multiple objects on my UM2+ext, and it underextrudes severly see picture The one below is taulman bridge, no prob in the middle, colorfabb PLA, no prob Up, taulman bridge but printing 20 same models at the same time, Not good on any of them They all use the same settings, can't find the way to copy/past all settings from cura and I'm shure, the settings I'll give you will not be relevant ^^ I'll just say 100% infill, 70mm/s speed, 6.5mm restractation. merci beaucoup !
  10. hello, i'm calibrating my UM2+ext and I'dd like to acces the flow rate in Cura, but it's simply not here, when I check in the options I have put in my taskbar, there is a "!" next to flow and it says : "This setting has been hidden by the value of the G-Code Flavour. Change the value of that setting to make it visible." I don't have this problem chen I change Gcode flavour to marlin or when I use another printer ! it has to do with theUltimaker2 Gcode Flavour, but why ? makes no sens to not access the flow ( or extrusion multiplier, call it has you wish 🙂 ) Anybody has a clue on what's going on ? Merci Beaucoup 😄
  11. Yisonco

    Problems with PETG

    After printing parts for weeks with PLA and having a lot of luck, I needed to begin printing with a material that has more rigidity and stability at higher temperatures. I have been trying to print parts varying in complexity with PETG for some time now, and the printer always seems to jam and mess the whole print up. I printed hundreds of calibration blocks and concluded with the following configuration: Door and Cover to stabilize the temperature Part Fan's 0% - little or no bridging necessary Build Plate 80C - this helps to keep chamber around 40C 3m glue on glass build plate Nozzle temperature 150C Flow 100% Retraction 4mm @20mm/s - minor stringing, but better than getting molten material in heat break Extruder tension tight to prevent slipping and grinding, but not to deformation of the filament Printer Speed is 100% - calculated to about 40mm/sec I have used several filaments with similar results. I use a printer dryer to ensure the filament is dry which made the print nicer but did not resolve the problem. The image is of a part that failed during the first two layers, but it is random in the part which makes me think its irregularities in the filament. I tried every temperature from 240C to 270C before settling on 250C. The tests at 260C+ had too much oozing and 240 the filament would not adhere to anything. When the jam occurs, it appears to almost zig-zag as the plastic comes out of the nozzle. Your help is much appreciated.
  12. I’m selling excellent condition um2e+ for 2200$ it has only 10 hrs on it and comes with full spool of Filoment. I’m located in Washington state if interested please do msg me not a lot of them in such prestige condition and low hrs on here don’t let it slip away.
  13. Morning, I've previously installed the upgrade kit and has worked awesome for some time. We've had a recent mishap where the ID threads for the nozzles have been contaminated with PLA. It's been cleaned since, but I'm curious: If I want to replace that head, what part would I order? Is it essentially the Olsson block? Thanks
  14. Carlito

    underextrusion

    Hey ! I have sever underextrusion problems since aprox 2 weeks and can't solve it... So here i am I know that the hot end is not the problem and it is happening from the extruder, it is not the gear chewing on the filament, so my best guess is that the extruder motor is skipping steps ! After my failed prints, you can see the filament all the way up in my hotend ! Also tried different softwares ( cura; slic3r, simplify 3D ) same results you can see two prints with holes in them ( first week of troubleshooting ) and the one where it just stoped extruding, doing the same thing since one week ! have any idea what's going on ? thanks all :))))
  15. On my newest machine, i am seeing that my belt is wearing away at the stepper wire, i have attached an image. I am worried that this will make a serious issue in the future and if anyone has help or a solution to this. I purchased this machine ust 4 weeks ago. Thank you in advance
  16. Hi UM Community, I thought I would share my experience upgrading an Ultimaker 2 Extended + with the Mark2 Dual Extrusion upgrade. At the end of this post I have a list of open questions. Hopefully someone can comment on them (@tinkergnome , @foehnsturm). I bought an official Extrusion upgrade kit as well as the expansion board. I followed the steps 1-6 listed at https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/step-1-getting-the-parts.html Some modifications and clarifications were needed: Step 3: To get the new stepper motor to the control board it was required to extend the stepper motor cable since this is a taller printer. I bought some JST XH 3S 4-pin connectors to make the extension cable The official extrusion upgrade kit extruder housing comes with an aluminum backplate now. So when attaching it to the feeder-mount.stl the screws needed to be countersunk to fit m3 screws under the aluminum backplate. Step 4: The m3 holes on the expansion board holder were too small had to be drilled out Step 5: It is not specifically mention which firmware to select during step 5. I selected firmware: Tinker-Mark2-extended-expansion-board-17.09.hex In addition the following needed to be modified for the extended Ultimaker: modified cura printer definition: Mark2_for_Ultimaker2.def.json "machine_height": { "default_value": 305 I also modified the backplate image and definition to include "extended" The printer would shutdown when heating both nozzles. I had to modify the power budget: total was reduced to 100W Step 6: calibration: x -13 y -5 park position: moved y only slightly to have 1mm between magnet and print head Next Steps: Build a second filament spool holder, recommendations welcome Generally organize filament Open Questions: In order to disable the second print head for single material prints, a second printer profile is used which has only one extruder? This is also how to reactivate the setting "Print Sequence One at a Time" In order to stop the Ultimaker from shutting down I had to modify the power budget. I read on the forum that some buy a larger PSU, but I cant find details. Is a 280W PSU sufficient? https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GST280A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=171084&GROUPID=4950&artnr=MW+GST280A24&trstct=pol_0 Is there any way to get a bed leveling sensor into the Mark2 firmware? Hope this post helps someone else upgrading their Ultimaker to a Mark2 Many thanks to tinkergnome and foehnsturm for their work on the Mark2! best Jesse
  17. Hello, I am trying to print a part while setting a 100% infill and a chosen line direction for the infill ([0,90]). Cura won't generate a Gcode with the chosen infill direction if the infill is set at 100%, but will do it for any other lower infill percentage. It seems that when choosing a 100% infill, the line direction cannot be chosen... Any tips on how to solve this ? Thanks,
  18. Used Ultimaker2 Extended+ for sale.. Good condition 4months old.. Price: Rs. 2,00,000
  19. RetromanIE

    Cura 2.4 Nozzle size options

    So I only have the option for 0.25, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle options in Cura. How can I choose 0.5 or 1.0 etc? I have an Ultimaker 2 Extended +. I must be missing something obvious
  20. Dear Ultimakers, I just bought a new UM2E+, on 1st prints knocking noise was coming out from the printer. I tried to sense the culprit through touching various part during knocking, but no use. Checked all the belt and there was X axis belt lose & I tighten up, but still knocking sound there. Knocking sound does not appear coming from the feeder. It is definitely coming from the X axis, as I just switched the printer off, and moved the head fast on both X & Y axis's, Y no knocking, while the X showing the same knocking sound when it prints, with knocking specifically been heard at 2 positions. If you divide the X axis to half the sound will be heard on the middle of the right & the left halves. Thanks in advance for the help.
  21. Today, I ran some tests with default PLA settings, on two Ultimaker 2+ Ext. After the job was done, the nozzle remained on the last layer, at one of the layer's edges. This of course affected the piece's surface as I do not want it to happen. I didn't experience this before. What is wrong ? Setting ? Bug is updated software ? Tnx, Rein
  22. printDude

    Spezielles underextrusion

    Hi zusammen, seit ein paar Wochen kämpfe ich mit meinem UM2E+ mit einer speziellen Gorm der Underextrusion. Die Ursache ist im ersten Moment der Feeder, welcher sich ins Filament gefressen hat. aber warum macht er das, obwohl drr normale Transport klappt? Nun es liegt am Abschluss des Druckvorgangs. Warum? ich habe mit dem 3er Cura mal einen Kalibrierungswürfel erzeugt und slicen lassen. Der Druck klappt echt gut, aber nach dem Druck des letzten Layers bleibt der Druckkopf im Objekt stehen und es wird weiterhin Material gefördert. Da die Düse aber noch im Objekt steckt, baut sich ein Hegendruck auf und der Feeder braucht immer mehr Kraft das Filament durchzudrücken und frisst sich somit in das Material. Beim nächsten Druckversuch greift die Walze im Feeder ins leere bzw. kann nicht genügend druck aufbauen. Hinzu kommt noch der Abrieb, welche die Walze glätter macht. Das alles könnte man also verhindern, in dem man den Druckkopf nach dem Druck vom Objekt wegbewegt (Home) und dann abkühlen lässt. ist das ein Fehler in Cura, oder muss man nur das Häkchen setzen (Druckkopf zum abkühlen heben). Danke vorab für Eure Hilfe...
  23. Bonjour à tous et à toutes, : ) je suis à la recherche d'un objet pour calibré mon ABS maison. Pour supprimé le délaminage entre couches , une idée des ressources stl ? Suite à la formation de Makershop, et au élément trouvé sur le net. Je sais qu'il me faut : - Changé de matériaux car l'ABS est gourmand en délaminage (refroidissement rapide du matériaux). - Augmenté la température d’impression. - Un capot ne seras pas de trop. ( à quel température peut-on monté dans l'enceinte du capot pour ne pas détérioré l'imprimante?) - Remplissage au minimum pour évité l’effet rétractant. - Distance x et y des couches. - Autre? Pour ma part j'ai lancé une impression d'un parallélépipède coûteux : UM3, cura 3.2.1 : - 180 mm x 180 mm hauteur 50 mm. - Température d’impression 250 °C. - Température plateau 100 °C. (80°C ou 100°C une grande différence?) - Hauteur de couche 0.1mm. - Épaisseur de la paroi 1.3 mm (l'épaisseur influence telle le délaminage?). - Motif remplissage triangle (des articles sur les motifs et leurs propriétés?). - Remplissage 50%. - Vitesse d’impression 70 mm/s. - Refroidissement de l’impression off. - Largeur de bordure 7 mm. - Colle dimafix en spray. Le calibrage plateau, joue t'il sur le délaminage ? Je pense que non mais dans le doute!^^ : - Entretient machine ok . Les 9 axes lubrifiées, poulies resserrées , les 6 courroies resserrées. - Calibration buse plateau de verres, avec cale mécanique 0.10 mm.(affiné avec les vis du plateau). - Coté traité du plateau. Merci : )
  24. Bonjour à tous et à toutes, : ) je suis à la recherche d'un objet pour calibré mon ABS maison. Pour supprimé le délaminage entre couches , une idée des ressources stl ? Suite à la formation de Makershop, et au élément trouvé sur le net. Je sais qu'il me faut : - Changé de matériaux car l'ABS est gourmand en délaminage (refroidissement rapide du matériaux). - Augmenté la température d’impression. - Un capot ne seras pas de trop. ( à quel température peut-on monté dans l'enceinte du capot pour ne pas détérioré l'imprimante?) - Remplissage au minimum pour évité l’effet rétractant. - Distance x et y des couches. - Autre? Pour ma part j'ai lancé une impression d'un parallélépipède coûteux : UM3, cura 3.2.1 : - 180 mm x 180 mm hauteur 50 mm. - Température d’impression 250 °C. - Température plateau 100 °C. (80°C ou 100°C une grande différence?) - Hauteur de couche 0.1mm. - Épaisseur de la paroi 1.3 mm (l'épaisseur influence telle le délaminage?). - Motif remplissage triangle (des articles sur les motifs et leurs propriétés?). - Remplissage 50%. - Vitesse d’impression 70 mm/s. - Refroidissement de l’impression off. - Largeur de bordure 7 mm. - Colle dimafix en spray. Le calibrage plateau, joue t'il sur le délaminage ? Je pense que non mais dans le doute!^^ : - Entretient machine ok . Les 9 axes lubrifiées, poulies resserrées , les 6 courroies resserrées. - Calibration buse plateau de verres, avec cale mécanique 0.10 mm.(affiné avec les vis du plateau). - Coté traité du plateau. Merci : )
  25. Bonjour, tt la communauté! je recherche un objet et calibrage pour l'ABS qui me crée des problèmes de délaminage entre les couches. L'ABS vient de fabrication maison.) (Question de prix) Il est utilisé à la base pour l'injection mais notre fournisseur confirme qu'il est utilisé aussi pour les impressions 3D. Mais Apparemment il existe une spéciale pour l'extrusion. Je m'arrête aussi des questions sur mon extrusion (sur extrudeuse) qui est à 210 ° C. (je peux descendre à 195 ° C) Un matériau trop cuit ou un produit plus cassant ... Je ne suis pas encore au point sur l'extrudeuse, il faut que je vérifie mon diamètre de filament s'il est bien continuer à 2.85 millimètres. J'aimerais avoir votre avis sur mon objet, - un cylindre (R = 200 mm) ou un cube (200 mm x 200 mm) d'une épaisseur de paroi de 0.4 ou 0.8 ou plus? J'ai peu être tord de faire un rayon si grand? - Remplissage? Quel effet va t-il avoir sur la paroisse? - J'utilise surtout une buse 0.4, mais du 0.8 serais le plus efficace pour chercher le meilleur réglage? ou peu être 0.25? L'origine du délaminage est le froid: - Les capots sont commandés pou les UM2. - Je ne monte pas la température à 280 ° max sur UM3 et 260 ° C UM2. Augmenté la température en n'est pas le premier réglage à réalisé? - Ventilation, respecté un minimum de? - Vitesse d'impression? - Flux de la matière? Merci
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