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Found 46 results

  1. hey, So I'm trying to print multiple objects on my UM2+ext, and it underextrudes severly see picture The one below is taulman bridge, no prob in the middle, colorfabb PLA, no prob Up, taulman bridge but printing 20 same models at the same time, Not good on any of them They all use the same settings, can't find the way to copy/past all settings from cura and I'm shure, the settings I'll give you will not be relevant ^^ I'll just say 100% infill, 70mm/s speed, 6.5mm restractation. merci beaucoup !
  2. Jeremi

    Support placement

    I have the ultimaker 2+ extended but my question is more about the support section of Cura. Sometime I need support in place that are not touching the building plate but I have some small holes that doesn't need support so I was wondering if there was a option to choose individualy the place I need support and the place I don't?. I'll still use the automatic support finder that the software use when you see red at the support place but I would like to choose which one I want to keep.
  3. hello, i'm calibrating my UM2+ext and I'dd like to acces the flow rate in Cura, but it's simply not here, when I check in the options I have put in my taskbar, there is a "!" next to flow and it says : "This setting has been hidden by the value of the G-Code Flavour. Change the value of that setting to make it visible." I don't have this problem chen I change Gcode flavour to marlin or when I use another printer ! it has to do with theUltimaker2 Gcode Flavour, but why ? makes no sens to not access the flow ( or extrusion multiplier, call it has you wish 🙂 ) Anybody has a clue on what's going on ? Merci Beaucoup 😄
  4. Yisonco

    Problems with PETG

    After printing parts for weeks with PLA and having a lot of luck, I needed to begin printing with a material that has more rigidity and stability at higher temperatures. I have been trying to print parts varying in complexity with PETG for some time now, and the printer always seems to jam and mess the whole print up. I printed hundreds of calibration blocks and concluded with the following configuration: Door and Cover to stabilize the temperature Part Fan's 0% - little or no bridging necessary Build Plate 80C - this helps to keep chamber around 40C 3m glue on glass build plate Nozzle temperature 150C Flow 100% Retraction 4mm @20mm/s - minor stringing, but better than getting molten material in heat break Extruder tension tight to prevent slipping and grinding, but not to deformation of the filament Printer Speed is 100% - calculated to about 40mm/sec I have used several filaments with similar results. I use a printer dryer to ensure the filament is dry which made the print nicer but did not resolve the problem. The image is of a part that failed during the first two layers, but it is random in the part which makes me think its irregularities in the filament. I tried every temperature from 240C to 270C before settling on 250C. The tests at 260C+ had too much oozing and 240 the filament would not adhere to anything. When the jam occurs, it appears to almost zig-zag as the plastic comes out of the nozzle. Your help is much appreciated.
  5. I’m selling excellent condition um2e+ for 2200$ it has only 10 hrs on it and comes with full spool of Filoment. I’m located in Washington state if interested please do msg me not a lot of them in such prestige condition and low hrs on here don’t let it slip away.
  6. Morning, I've previously installed the upgrade kit and has worked awesome for some time. We've had a recent mishap where the ID threads for the nozzles have been contaminated with PLA. It's been cleaned since, but I'm curious: If I want to replace that head, what part would I order? Is it essentially the Olsson block? Thanks
  7. Carlito

    underextrusion

    Hey ! I have sever underextrusion problems since aprox 2 weeks and can't solve it... So here i am I know that the hot end is not the problem and it is happening from the extruder, it is not the gear chewing on the filament, so my best guess is that the extruder motor is skipping steps ! After my failed prints, you can see the filament all the way up in my hotend ! Also tried different softwares ( cura; slic3r, simplify 3D ) same results you can see two prints with holes in them ( first week of troubleshooting ) and the one where it just stoped extruding, doing the same thing since one week ! have any idea what's going on ? thanks all :))))
  8. On my newest machine, i am seeing that my belt is wearing away at the stepper wire, i have attached an image. I am worried that this will make a serious issue in the future and if anyone has help or a solution to this. I purchased this machine ust 4 weeks ago. Thank you in advance
  9. Hi UM Community, I thought I would share my experience upgrading an Ultimaker 2 Extended + with the Mark2 Dual Extrusion upgrade. At the end of this post I have a list of open questions. Hopefully someone can comment on them (@tinkergnome , @foehnsturm). I bought an official Extrusion upgrade kit as well as the expansion board. I followed the steps 1-6 listed at https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/step-1-getting-the-parts.html Some modifications and clarifications were needed: Step 3: To get the new stepper motor to the control board it was required to extend the stepper motor cable since this is a taller printer. I bought some JST XH 3S 4-pin connectors to make the extension cable The official extrusion upgrade kit extruder housing comes with an aluminum backplate now. So when attaching it to the feeder-mount.stl the screws needed to be countersunk to fit m3 screws under the aluminum backplate. Step 4: The m3 holes on the expansion board holder were too small had to be drilled out Step 5: It is not specifically mention which firmware to select during step 5. I selected firmware: Tinker-Mark2-extended-expansion-board-17.09.hex In addition the following needed to be modified for the extended Ultimaker: modified cura printer definition: Mark2_for_Ultimaker2.def.json "machine_height": { "default_value": 305 I also modified the backplate image and definition to include "extended" The printer would shutdown when heating both nozzles. I had to modify the power budget: total was reduced to 100W Step 6: calibration: x -13 y -5 park position: moved y only slightly to have 1mm between magnet and print head Next Steps: Build a second filament spool holder, recommendations welcome Generally organize filament Open Questions: In order to disable the second print head for single material prints, a second printer profile is used which has only one extruder? This is also how to reactivate the setting "Print Sequence One at a Time" In order to stop the Ultimaker from shutting down I had to modify the power budget. I read on the forum that some buy a larger PSU, but I cant find details. Is a 280W PSU sufficient? https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GST280A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=171084&GROUPID=4950&artnr=MW+GST280A24&trstct=pol_0 Is there any way to get a bed leveling sensor into the Mark2 firmware? Hope this post helps someone else upgrading their Ultimaker to a Mark2 Many thanks to tinkergnome and foehnsturm for their work on the Mark2! best Jesse
  10. Hello, I am trying to print a part while setting a 100% infill and a chosen line direction for the infill ([0,90]). Cura won't generate a Gcode with the chosen infill direction if the infill is set at 100%, but will do it for any other lower infill percentage. It seems that when choosing a 100% infill, the line direction cannot be chosen... Any tips on how to solve this ? Thanks,
  11. Used Ultimaker2 Extended+ for sale.. Good condition 4months old.. Price: Rs. 2,00,000
  12. RetromanIE

    Cura 2.4 Nozzle size options

    So I only have the option for 0.25, 0.4, 0.6 and 0.8mm nozzle options in Cura. How can I choose 0.5 or 1.0 etc? I have an Ultimaker 2 Extended +. I must be missing something obvious
  13. Dear Ultimakers, I just bought a new UM2E+, on 1st prints knocking noise was coming out from the printer. I tried to sense the culprit through touching various part during knocking, but no use. Checked all the belt and there was X axis belt lose & I tighten up, but still knocking sound there. Knocking sound does not appear coming from the feeder. It is definitely coming from the X axis, as I just switched the printer off, and moved the head fast on both X & Y axis's, Y no knocking, while the X showing the same knocking sound when it prints, with knocking specifically been heard at 2 positions. If you divide the X axis to half the sound will be heard on the middle of the right & the left halves. Thanks in advance for the help.
  14. Today, I ran some tests with default PLA settings, on two Ultimaker 2+ Ext. After the job was done, the nozzle remained on the last layer, at one of the layer's edges. This of course affected the piece's surface as I do not want it to happen. I didn't experience this before. What is wrong ? Setting ? Bug is updated software ? Tnx, Rein
  15. printDude

    Spezielles underextrusion

    Hi zusammen, seit ein paar Wochen kämpfe ich mit meinem UM2E+ mit einer speziellen Gorm der Underextrusion. Die Ursache ist im ersten Moment der Feeder, welcher sich ins Filament gefressen hat. aber warum macht er das, obwohl drr normale Transport klappt? Nun es liegt am Abschluss des Druckvorgangs. Warum? ich habe mit dem 3er Cura mal einen Kalibrierungswürfel erzeugt und slicen lassen. Der Druck klappt echt gut, aber nach dem Druck des letzten Layers bleibt der Druckkopf im Objekt stehen und es wird weiterhin Material gefördert. Da die Düse aber noch im Objekt steckt, baut sich ein Hegendruck auf und der Feeder braucht immer mehr Kraft das Filament durchzudrücken und frisst sich somit in das Material. Beim nächsten Druckversuch greift die Walze im Feeder ins leere bzw. kann nicht genügend druck aufbauen. Hinzu kommt noch der Abrieb, welche die Walze glätter macht. Das alles könnte man also verhindern, in dem man den Druckkopf nach dem Druck vom Objekt wegbewegt (Home) und dann abkühlen lässt. ist das ein Fehler in Cura, oder muss man nur das Häkchen setzen (Druckkopf zum abkühlen heben). Danke vorab für Eure Hilfe...
  16. Bonjour à tous et à toutes, : ) je suis à la recherche d'un objet pour calibré mon ABS maison. Pour supprimé le délaminage entre couches , une idée des ressources stl ? Suite à la formation de Makershop, et au élément trouvé sur le net. Je sais qu'il me faut : - Changé de matériaux car l'ABS est gourmand en délaminage (refroidissement rapide du matériaux). - Augmenté la température d’impression. - Un capot ne seras pas de trop. ( à quel température peut-on monté dans l'enceinte du capot pour ne pas détérioré l'imprimante?) - Remplissage au minimum pour évité l’effet rétractant. - Distance x et y des couches. - Autre? Pour ma part j'ai lancé une impression d'un parallélépipède coûteux : UM3, cura 3.2.1 : - 180 mm x 180 mm hauteur 50 mm. - Température d’impression 250 °C. - Température plateau 100 °C. (80°C ou 100°C une grande différence?) - Hauteur de couche 0.1mm. - Épaisseur de la paroi 1.3 mm (l'épaisseur influence telle le délaminage?). - Motif remplissage triangle (des articles sur les motifs et leurs propriétés?). - Remplissage 50%. - Vitesse d’impression 70 mm/s. - Refroidissement de l’impression off. - Largeur de bordure 7 mm. - Colle dimafix en spray. Le calibrage plateau, joue t'il sur le délaminage ? Je pense que non mais dans le doute!^^ : - Entretient machine ok . Les 9 axes lubrifiées, poulies resserrées , les 6 courroies resserrées. - Calibration buse plateau de verres, avec cale mécanique 0.10 mm.(affiné avec les vis du plateau). - Coté traité du plateau. Merci : )
  17. Bonjour à tous et à toutes, : ) je suis à la recherche d'un objet pour calibré mon ABS maison. Pour supprimé le délaminage entre couches , une idée des ressources stl ? Suite à la formation de Makershop, et au élément trouvé sur le net. Je sais qu'il me faut : - Changé de matériaux car l'ABS est gourmand en délaminage (refroidissement rapide du matériaux). - Augmenté la température d’impression. - Un capot ne seras pas de trop. ( à quel température peut-on monté dans l'enceinte du capot pour ne pas détérioré l'imprimante?) - Remplissage au minimum pour évité l’effet rétractant. - Distance x et y des couches. - Autre? Pour ma part j'ai lancé une impression d'un parallélépipède coûteux : UM3, cura 3.2.1 : - 180 mm x 180 mm hauteur 50 mm. - Température d’impression 250 °C. - Température plateau 100 °C. (80°C ou 100°C une grande différence?) - Hauteur de couche 0.1mm. - Épaisseur de la paroi 1.3 mm (l'épaisseur influence telle le délaminage?). - Motif remplissage triangle (des articles sur les motifs et leurs propriétés?). - Remplissage 50%. - Vitesse d’impression 70 mm/s. - Refroidissement de l’impression off. - Largeur de bordure 7 mm. - Colle dimafix en spray. Le calibrage plateau, joue t'il sur le délaminage ? Je pense que non mais dans le doute!^^ : - Entretient machine ok . Les 9 axes lubrifiées, poulies resserrées , les 6 courroies resserrées. - Calibration buse plateau de verres, avec cale mécanique 0.10 mm.(affiné avec les vis du plateau). - Coté traité du plateau. Merci : )
  18. Bonjour, tt la communauté! je recherche un objet et calibrage pour l'ABS qui me crée des problèmes de délaminage entre les couches. L'ABS vient de fabrication maison.) (Question de prix) Il est utilisé à la base pour l'injection mais notre fournisseur confirme qu'il est utilisé aussi pour les impressions 3D. Mais Apparemment il existe une spéciale pour l'extrusion. Je m'arrête aussi des questions sur mon extrusion (sur extrudeuse) qui est à 210 ° C. (je peux descendre à 195 ° C) Un matériau trop cuit ou un produit plus cassant ... Je ne suis pas encore au point sur l'extrudeuse, il faut que je vérifie mon diamètre de filament s'il est bien continuer à 2.85 millimètres. J'aimerais avoir votre avis sur mon objet, - un cylindre (R = 200 mm) ou un cube (200 mm x 200 mm) d'une épaisseur de paroi de 0.4 ou 0.8 ou plus? J'ai peu être tord de faire un rayon si grand? - Remplissage? Quel effet va t-il avoir sur la paroisse? - J'utilise surtout une buse 0.4, mais du 0.8 serais le plus efficace pour chercher le meilleur réglage? ou peu être 0.25? L'origine du délaminage est le froid: - Les capots sont commandés pou les UM2. - Je ne monte pas la température à 280 ° max sur UM3 et 260 ° C UM2. Augmenté la température en n'est pas le premier réglage à réalisé? - Ventilation, respecté un minimum de? - Vitesse d'impression? - Flux de la matière? Merci
  19. CS3D

    Accuracy

    Hi, I would like to know what are the printed conditions and best parameters to obtain the maximum accuracy on a Ultimaker 2+ ? As decribe on the specification sheet of the Ultimaker 2+ For exemple I am printing a simple circle/disk that is suppose to be 55mm diameter (PLA / layers 0.1mm / speed 30mm/s) but when I mesure it after it has been being printed I obtain an average variation of the diameter of 0.3mm. The tension of all the belts has been done as well as the X and Y axes alignment. All the pulleys are clean and tighten Thanks in advance for your help and advice
  20. Good evening, i dont know if this has been done before or if it is even worth it. Is it possible to swap the UM2+ hot end with an E3D V6 hot end? I’m looking to upgrade the extruder with a bond tech qr extruder and was curious if the v6 is a worthwhile upgrade. thank you, nick
  21. I have an Ultimaker 2+ extended - working perfectly for about 2 years. This afternoon it suddenly stopped reading SD cards, it just says “reading card......” and goes into a dream. I have about 5 cards all were working OK and all read OK on MacBook, (a few weeks ago I noticed that it was getting a bit fussy about how the card was inserted, I needed to give a little upward pressure as well as pushing to get the “click”). None of the cards work anymore - has the reader given up? Is it fixable ?
  22. Hi! I've started printing on a new-to-me UM2E+ and noticed that cylinders (circular "posts") are printing wider at the top than at their base. I would think this is a software configuration issue? I'm using default print settings, but with a layer height of 0.32 on a 0.4 hotend. Everything else is printing beautifully. Any suggestions? Thanks, Duane
  23. dahunter

    Change dead nozzle

    Hi guys, I have a Ultimaker 2+ extended here in our company. Sadly the 0.4 nozzle is gone and all attempts to change it failed. Yesterday we even tried pliers. The tools that came with the printer did not work, nor proper new tools from the tool shop. The provided tool and the nozzle have rounded edges. Is there any way to remove the nozzle in such cases? Thanks for your help.
  24. Hi, hopefully somebody may be able to help with this but its driving me nuts. I am running the latest version (Cura 3.1.0) and have recently been noticing that my models are set into the build plate by a small amount. It is only a small amount, but I am getting flats on models where there shouldn’t be any. I am having to turn off ‘automatically drop models to build plate’ and adjust the model manually. Does anyone have any ideas how I can fix this? I have included an image showing what I am getting, hopefully it is clear. This is not how I would actually print this part but shows well the section that is cutting into the build plate.
  25. kussf

    Vide entre murs de pièce

    Bonjour, J'ai un problème d'impression sur une imprimante UM2 extended équipée d'un bloc Olsonn avec une buse de 0.8mm Je définis mon imprimante dans Cura comme une UM2 + extended alors que ce n'est pas réellement une +, afin de pouvoir stipuler le diamètre de buse. J'imprime ma pièce avec les paramètres recommandés dans Cura à 100% de remplissage, seule la hauteur de couche est changée à 0.15mm (au lieu de 0.2) Il y a trois murs sur la pièce, j'ai systématiquement le mur intérieur qui ne touche pas le mur extérieur qui lui est accolé. Mais pas de vide entre remplissage et mur intérieur ni entre les deux murs extérieurs. Vous pouvez voir un exemple en pièce jointe mais ce phénomène arrive quelque soit la forme de pièce : Sur cette photo, on voit le haut d'une pièce : https://photos.app.goo.gl/OdD649vBFHQmSWLY2 Sur celle-ci, l'impression a été arrêtée avant la fin : https://photos.app.goo.gl/wXistYQOzK7OhOGm1 J'ai vérifié les tensions de courroies, mon niveau de plateau, mon bowden a été changé, le coupleur teflon aussi. Auriez vous une explication ? Merci
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