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  1. Hallo zusammen, ich bräuchte eure Hilfe, da ich etwas am verzweifeln bin. Seit Jahren drucke ich mit meinem Ultimaker 2 Extended + gerne, nicht viel, aber immer wieder mal etwas. Heute früh habe ich einen Druck gestartet und warum auch immer sieht die hintere Wand so wellig aus. Was mir aufgefallen ist, das Druckbett wackelt wenn der Druckkopf an der hinteren Wand entlang saust. Könnte das davon kommen? Wenn ja, was muss ich tun, damit ich wieder eine saubere Wand habe? Würde mich sehr für hilfreiche Tipps freuen.
  2. We got a problem with printing a big cilindercal shape (100x100x300mm). In the appendix some picture of the printing and end-result! The build platform is vibrating a lot! About 4 to 5mm on the end of the build platform. We don't have this problem before with other prints. We are printing with PLA at 204 degrees. If you want more information please let me know!
  3. My nozzle in UM2E+ keeps clogging after few hours of printing, I checked the nozzle and it seems fine , I also checked and cleaned the extruder mechanism. The cooling fan to cool the heat break runs very slowly. Also there seems to be a leak of filament above the nozzle. Could someone point me in the right direction about what needs to be done, I have attached a picture for reference.
  4. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height : 0.15 - Infill density : 30% - Wall Thickness : 2 mm - Flow : 106% - Retraction : enabled, +/- 5 mm - Speed : 40 mm/s - Build plate adhesion : Raft - I've thermally insulated the whole printer With these setting I got : - poor layer adhesion giving a very weak catapult - poor printing precision - no warping You can find enclosed some pictures of the catapult printed with these settings. Thank you so much for your help ! Thibault
  5. New owner here so please go easy on me - Ive only had the printer a week, i decided to try Verbatim PLA white (fancied a change from the UM Silver Pla that was installed at purchase). Having all sorts of trouble under extrusion etc.. Cura Update to 4.3 Offered Firmware update which i opted to do (hoping this would correct said issues). Ok this is were it gets interesting. Since firmware update i have noticed the following changed: Start print -> Head zero's in back left -> bed rises -> head moves to front left -> 50mm of extrusion fast then it slows down.... Now here is my issue, previously the head would move towards the print areas and at the same time raise the bed to meet it, thus maneuvering away from the heap of waste PLA. Not any more - the bed raises and positions the head bang in the pile of PLA and drags it into the the build area. I also have absolutely no control over the nozzle temp which the machine likes to set at 230c which is making the VERB pla bubble.. (too hot). Is there any way of correcting this or at least giving me some control over these issues - or maybe even being able to restore the old firmware back TIA Paul
  6. I just received these parts from www.goprint3d.co.uk. They are sold as genuine Ultimaker replacement glass bed (part 1154) and genuine Ultimaker bowden (part 1266). On their site the pics are of the real deal(as are the part numbers), but what i got seems like cheap and nasty 3rd party parts. The glass bed is not rounded, light weight and doesn't feel like borosilicate glass and the bowden just looks a bit off. Now I've got many replacement glass beds for my Ultimakers over the years and its always been the same high quality glass bed we all know and love. They usually come shrink wrapped and well protected. As you can see in the pics this is how the glass bed arrived to me this time(they did put bubble wrap on it and sent in a plastic bag). Any thoughts? Anyone from Ultimaker confirm these are cheap parts and not the real deal? Thank you
  7. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  8. Guys I need help from the collective once again. I have built my own version of the UM2E+ but for the life of me cannot get one print right yet! The printer is running of of Tinker firmware (kudos to the genius who created it!!!) but problem has persisted over various firmware updates. I have been trying to print calibration cubes sliced with Cura & Repetier but every time I seem to have the same problem (the first layer or 2 come out perfectly). At different stages of the print but normally around the 4-8th layer the printer extrudes a very large blob and then the Z axis drops by 1-2mm or so and continues to try to print. I am running my bed from a separate power supply through a MOSFET and printing PLA+ at 210degC the print speed has also been reduced. As per previous suggestions I have reduced the current to all my motors as I initially thought that the drivers were overheating so my X/Y axis is 1000, Z axis 900 & extruder 1000. I have also changed the extruder motor from a Nema17 x 35mm to a Nema17 45mm @ 0.9 degree steps and have the step count and length completely perfect (had the same problem with both motor versions). I have fitted a large heat sink and forced air fan to all the stepper drivers but nothing has helped, the heat sink doesn't seem to get overly hot. Z axis has also been tweaked to move the correct amount IWO steps/mm etc. Can anyone share some thoughts on what the problem and a possible solution is?
  9. Hi everyone, I bought 2.85mm PLA filament (Brazilian brand), and after printing for hours, everything is going well, but I noticed that during printing the nozzle was printing in the air, far from the piece and no filament extruding. Immediately I stopped printing, I tried to do the normal filament removal procedure, but the filament got stuck. I also tried the printer's Move function, but still the filament got stuck. So I opened Feeder and the filament was "choking" inside. I removed the filament and I did the complete feeder cleaning and also printer maintenance. As you can see in the picture, I cut this filament, and you can see that there is a problem with Feeder Tension. Currently, in Ultimaker 2+ Extended, Feeder tension is exactly in the middle and I had never changed. But for this filament I would need to change the feeder tension. In the same photo, keeping the same tension in the middle and leveling the table, I did a first layer calibration test and then I tried to print a small bust, and as you can see it's completely horrible. I would like to know from you what would be the ideal tension for this filament, the marker is in the middle of the feeder. So I have to put the mark up or down to fix this problem? Would it be clockwise to loosen the tension (raising the marker a little)? If so, how much would I need to loosen? Thank you for your help.
  10. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
  11. I noticed recently that a few things were coming loose on the bed of one of my Ultimaker 2+ Extended machines while printing and I just couldn't understand it. But then I happened to touch the glass plate while running a print and it was warm, but not near the 60c i had it set to(its displays 60c in the menu). So sure enough I got my thermometer out and measure then bed at about 40c, not 60c. If i increase the set temp to 75c I'm getting around 60c. My thermometer is a bit crappy so it could be off by 5c. I use hair spray on the glass plate usually which is why the things were coming loose, it needs around 50-55c to hold PLA down. I use it more as a release mechanism rather than to hold the print in place. Anyway, I checked all the connections and everything looks fine and I'm not getting any errors. Its the newer print bed as I purchased and installed it late last year. Any ideas as to what it might be? I mean i can print fine if i just tell it to heat the bed to 75c, but i really dont understand whats going on.
  12. Guys I am in dire need of your assistance.... So I took on the challenge of building a cloned Ultimaker 2 Extended (with a few self mods) but have run into a problem at the last hurdle. So basically the first layer goes down incredibly well with the X & Y axis printing out perfectly and dimensions are perfect too but thats when things to to hell. After the second layer or so there seems to be both an issue with under extrusion and Z axis height. Now I have both checked the step height on the Z axis and the extruder and both are moving at acceptable distances. I.e I have moved the Z axis 25mm and the resulting movement has 25.195 (i am an engineer with advances measuring equipment) the same goes with the extruder I have extruded 50mm of material and have measured 52.5 (a little over I know but wouldn't explain under extrusion). In an attempt to alleviate this issue I updated the firmware to TinkerMaker but the problem still persists. I have also added a cooling fan to the stepper drivers which has made no difference. The power supply is a 24V 15A so should be able to handle things, I have reduced bed temperature to 25DegC just in case I was overloading. I am basically at the pulling out of hair stage and could be doing with a fresh perspective if anyone could help.
  13. Dear Ultimakerists, I am having an issue using the full print height of our UM2E+. The model is just under 300mm, and I am printing from 0 i.e. not raft. The preview (below) shows that CURA (4.1.0) believes it will print but I have tried twice and the print stops at 225mm and the printer throws a "ERROR: tried to print out of printing area". I can see how the print might fail closer to the Z height limit but 75mm short seems strange. I have checked that the Printer Settings are set to 305mm Z height. It is very possible I am missing something very obvious, so ahve attached the project file. Any help is greatly appreciated. UM2E_part.3mf
  14. Hello guys! Recently I've experienced some extrusion issues with the ultimaker 2 extended+ I have at work. The machine is around three years old and has ran day and night in some cases, but I always did my maintenance!. As the images show the extrusion stops mid print at random heights.. To prevent this form happening I've replaced the PTFE Coupler and tube, nozzle and heating element, all of them original ofcourse. At the moment im printing with a 0.6 nozzle at different layer heights (0.2-0.3) as I am printing quite large objects. Some prints succeed but most of them fail and I'm at this point were im out of ideas.. The filament should be okay since I've used it for a long time without any issues. It seems that the nozzle clogs most of the times because when I push some filament through by hand to clean the nozzle a watery drop of filament falls out of the nozzle. This is quite strange as this just randomly started to happen, didnt change the temperature or anything really in cura. Increasing the temp and/or material flow during the print gives a temporary fix but will fail mostly in the end anyway. Soo, has anyone experienced the same issue and maybe has a solution?. Thanks in advance! Loek
  15. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  16. Hi! Using my Ultimaker 2 Ext. + for 3 years now with more or less no problems but now everytime i start a print everything looks fine first but after aprox. 20min of printing the error appears and the printer kind of freezes in its current position and is not reacting on any command... -i then have to turn it off and pull the power cable to get this error away. I disassembled the printer now for the 3rd time but everything looks fine: i am messureing 108 Ohm on the solder-pads on the board (betw. point "TP73" and "TP74") and all the way up to the sensor no matter how i stress the cable or the heatbed (i removed the heatbad so i can move it arround to see if there is at one position a connection-problem -but it seams not to be one [always 108 Ohms without interruption]) of course i can not messure while the printer is running but while heating up and the first layers of printing there is everything fine (so the error is not -like in most described cases- from the start). In the worst case i have no problem to change a part but which? bed or board? thx in advance for every hint! best regards! sebastian
  17. Selling our slightly used UM2E+ and will throw in 4 Rolls of material for $1450 or best offer plus shipping -Ultimaker 2+ extended with all original parts and accessories included. -Upgraded hardened micro swiss 0.4mm nozzle -4 rolls of filamentum Rapunzel silver PLA filament - 1 roll of protopasta stainless steel PLA This printer is from a business and we can accept credit cards.. Please reply to thread or contact at work email privately at adam.ostroff@homedics.com
  18. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  19. So the official height of the Z axis on the Ultimaker 2+ Extended is 305mm. Using the S3D machine control panel I was testing the x and y axis sizes as I was having a centering issue(which i now understand). While i was at it i decided to see what the actual height of the Z axis is, which on my machine is 312mm! I did a test print to see if i can actually print that height and it does indeed go up to 312mm without issue(was a quick vase mode print). Is there any technical reason for not using the extra height? I mean it's only an extra 7mm, but that could be useful for tall prints without having to resize or split etc.
  20. Hi! Any clues why the BACK of the print looks near awesome but the FRONT looks like CRAP?? (sides look ok too). PLA print on UM2E+ with latest official firmware and olson Ruby nozzle 0.4 printing at 50mm/s. (Yes, I've checked the STL for manifold errros and the Gcode and both look fine) The printer has an enclosure installed but I printed this with the door open and the ambient temperature is currently low, like 16-18ºC and since the rear part was printed fine, I don't think it's about too much heat, plus the PLA i'm using has a higher melting point than regular PLA...
  21. Hey, I am facing some problems hope someone can help me with it, I have been using my UM3 and UM2+ for a while and i never had such an issue; recently i have got a new laptop and since then whenever i try slicing any model using any profile either (Extra Fine/Fine/Normal/Fast) or any custom profiles it shows me this message, CURA does not crash anyway it only stop the process of slicing. hope someone can help me with this issue
  22. Hi UM Community, I thought I would share my experience upgrading an Ultimaker 2 Extended + with the Mark2 Dual Extrusion upgrade. At the end of this post I have a list of open questions. Hopefully someone can comment on them (@tinkergnome , @foehnsturm). I bought an official Extrusion upgrade kit as well as the expansion board. I followed the steps 1-6 listed at https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/step-1-getting-the-parts.html Some modifications and clarifications were needed: Step 3: To get the new stepper motor to the control board it was required to extend the stepper motor cable since this is a taller printer. I bought some JST XH 3S 4-pin connectors to make the extension cable The official extrusion upgrade kit extruder housing comes with an aluminum backplate now. So when attaching it to the feeder-mount.stl the screws needed to be countersunk to fit m3 screws under the aluminum backplate. Step 4: The m3 holes on the expansion board holder were too small had to be drilled out Step 5: It is not specifically mention which firmware to select during step 5. I selected firmware: Tinker-Mark2-extended-expansion-board-17.09.hex In addition the following needed to be modified for the extended Ultimaker: modified cura printer definition: Mark2_for_Ultimaker2.def.json "machine_height": { "default_value": 305 I also modified the backplate image and definition to include "extended" The printer would shutdown when heating both nozzles. I had to modify the power budget: total was reduced to 100W Step 6: calibration: x -13 y -5 park position: moved y only slightly to have 1mm between magnet and print head Next Steps: Build a second filament spool holder, recommendations welcome Generally organize filament Open Questions: In order to disable the second print head for single material prints, a second printer profile is used which has only one extruder? This is also how to reactivate the setting "Print Sequence One at a Time" In order to stop the Ultimaker from shutting down I had to modify the power budget. I read on the forum that some buy a larger PSU, but I cant find details. Is a 280W PSU sufficient? https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GST280A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=171084&GROUPID=4950&artnr=MW+GST280A24&trstct=pol_0 Is there any way to get a bed leveling sensor into the Mark2 firmware? Hope this post helps someone else upgrading their Ultimaker to a Mark2 Many thanks to tinkergnome and foehnsturm for their work on the Mark2! best Jesse
  23. We have been having a heat sensor error on our printer so we have bought a new plate kit from 3D GB Ire. first off I`ve noticed that the shape of the new plate is a little different, I`m hoping its just an upgraded part. But my biggest issue is that none of the wires on the new cable are colour coded like the original. There were no instructions sent with the kit so I`m guessing I`m going to have to just do a continuity check on the new cable to match them up with the correct connections on the bed and circuit board? Also while the printer is apart I have noticed that the circuit board is seeing some heat discolouration. Is this normal ? Thanks, Andy
  24. I'm wondering if anyone might have some thoughts on the "Z Axis Movement Speed" setting in Simplify3D? The defaults is usually 16.7mm/s, but I've seen mention of using 40mm/s on the Ultimaker 2+ series of printers. I assume the firmware will limit the speed anyway, but what is the actual speed recommended by Ultimaker? 16.7mm/s and 40mm/s just don't sound correct to me, but I'm open to being educated on this :) So just to be clear, although I'm talking about S3D I'd really like to know what the official line from Ultimaker is on the Z speed(no matter the software using the setting). Thanks
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