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Found 64 results

  1. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1 but the problems seem to persist. Any ideas on what's wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot next? Could there be multiple issues? Thanks for the help.
  2. I want to add dual extrusion to my UM2+ Currently (as far as I can tell) there are two projects that deal with Dual Extrusion on the UM2+ ULTICREATR 2X http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/ulticreatr/164-ulticreatr-2x.html#/52-printer-ultimaker_2 Mark2 https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/ From what little I can gather, the Ulticreatr 2x setup would have issues with the nozzle hitting the part, the temperature from one nozzle creeping into the other, and oozing. Is this really an issue with the Ulticreatr 2x? Does anyone have first hand experience with this setup? The videos/images on their site are very pretty. The Mark2 looks like it would reduce the printable area on the bed because it has to park the second carriage (it would also take longer to print if there are lots of color changes). Is this an accurate assessment? Are these the only two options? What does it take to build a Dual Extrusion setup? If I were to build my own Dual Extrusion by utilizing the existing parts (similar to how the Ulticreatr 2x works) what more is needed other than a second extruder, motor, bowden, and a nozzle/heatblock set? I guess this question is more of a: Why would I spend $705 USD on the Ulticreatr 2x when I can just buy the parts I need for half that?
  3. hey 🙂 Was wondering, my extruders motors keep dying on my UM2+ after 6 months, happened to me 3 times already in 1.5 years... I switched to the bondtech extruder, but it apparently requires more torque... so the question is, how fat of a motor can I install on it ? like, how much power can the motherboard spare for the extruder motor ? Because I'm really tired of printing at 30mm/s and still getting under extrusion with PLA because of a flipping motor 😕 Thanks ^^
  4. I use 3mm material and it no matter what I do it comes out stringy and doesn't print here's a video: https://vimeo.com/user93684507/review/310232189/5c69475deb
  5. Hi everybody, Usually I find the solutions for my troubles by searching on the web. But, on that specific case, I don't see anything similar... So : See attached pictures, you will notice that the print is ok on one side but very ugly on the other. Being a Fabmanager wasn't there when that print was sent. I tried to print a cube to see if the trouble is reproductible. Yes it is! The bed is shaking but only when the head moves in the y axis and it get worse when the head is closer to the back of the printer (I call the back the side of the printer where the Z lead screw is). I tried : - leveling the bed (many many times) - adding more tension to the spring of the bed in order for them to be stiffer - increasing the extruder temperature (I even went to 230C!) - printing the cube with no filament (to see if the vibration is still there; kind of air guitar!) : less vibration but a noise. Any advice will be very appreciated.
  6. Hi all! Is anyone selling a used Ultimaker 2, 2+ and 3 in the UK? Looking to update my current printer. Cheers!
  7. Hallo hat die Firmware schon wer getestet? Gibt es seit November aber Pre Release. Habe einen Ultimaker 2+ und bin noch auf 17.10.1
  8. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height : 0.15 - Infill density : 30% - Wall Thickness : 2 mm - Flow : 106% - Retraction : enabled, +/- 5 mm - Speed : 40 mm/s - Build plate adhesion : Raft - I've thermally insulated the whole printer With these setting I got : - poor layer adhesion giving a very weak catapult - poor printing precision - no warping You can find enclosed some pictures of the catapult printed with these settings. Thank you so much for your help ! Thibault
  9. Hi, it is not a problem yet because the prints are still coming out great but our U2E+ is making a strange «grinding» noise when traveling to the x direction. Here's a video of how it sounds. Although I oiled the axles a lot to try to get rid of the sound, it is still here. Any clue on why it makes that and how to resolve to problem? Thank you! :) Sandrine
  10. Guillaume777

    Clip Axe x H.S.

    Salut à tous !: ) J’aimerais savoir si vous avez une solution top pour maintenir mon axe qui ce ballade dans le bloc noir. J'ai déjà dégraissé rien n'y fait. Un fichier stl ? Collé l'axe ? Merci
  11. I’m selling my ultimaker 2 extended +. It was originally an ultimaker 2 extended and I upgraded it with a kit. The only issue with the printer is that the led lights are not working properly. Their replacement costs around 30€. I’m looking for 1250€. The printer is in Bulgaria.
  12. Bonjour, Depuis plusieurs semaine j'ai des problèmes d'impressions. L'impression ce fige en cours de route, la buse reste collé à l'impression en cours mais rien ne se passe. Ça peut arrivé à tout moment, obligation d'annuler le print et de le relancer. J'ai le cas sur plusieurs gcode différent, généré avec différente version de Cura et différents PC, le probleme vient donc de l'imprimante. Avez-vous des idées ?
  13. We have problems with our company's UM2+E printer that has existed since is came out of the box. Please excuse me if I sound completely exasperated...because I am. 1. The Extruder - the plastic drive gear was broken and constantly slipped and as a result produced prints that, at best, had layers that pulled apart but usually ended up as spaghetti. Why is this gear plastic on a $3K+ machine? We printed a new gear on a small ($400) machine that actually produces nice parts and installed it. It fixed the problem. However, over the course of the next year we have had limited success with this machine. It now seems that the filament drive is not consistent. The drive gear is ok but if you watch the slotted shaft, visible at the back of the extruder, it will stop and click from time to time unless the print speed is extremely slow. At least three people have taken a whack at fixing it to no avail. Is it possible that the stepper motor is bad / underpowered? 2. The X-Y calibration has been off since the beginning by about 2%. Why is there no way to calibrate this printer in the field? I saw some post about re-flashing the controller board with new calibration numbers...REALLY!!!?, and rescaling everything in Cura is a pain. I have a $250 Creality CR-7 that just allows you to set and steps/distance calibration number. Why not with the UM2+? So if anyone can help us with these problems we would be very appreciative. Paul
  14. Hello ! I recently changed my PLA supplier (now PLA economy from Colorfabb) in 2.2kg spool and I started to hear clicking sound on both my UM2+. I have bondtech feeders, tinkergnome and (normally) I set everything up correctly. I do not have underextrusion at all... I tried to loose the tensionning screw on the feeder and to increase the printing speed but I still have this (VERY ANNOYING) clicking sound. It occurs each 5 or 10 seconds. Maybe I did not hear it before because of the size of the spool and the lack of resonance... Do you have an idea ? If you need any extra info and/or pics, do not hesitate ! I am note sure what could be of use here... Thanks a lot ?
  15. Hi We currently have 2 printers - an Ulti 2 (upgraded to 2+) and a Ulti 2+ Extended. We have budget approved to get another machine but I am not sold that the Ulti 3 Extended is better value for money over a 2+Extended. The Pros v Cons for an Ulti 3 over an Ulti 2+ as I see it are: Pros ability to print dissolvable supports ability to print in 2 colours Cons more expensive slower print speed due to extra weight of the dual print head slower print speed due to printing dual filament slightly reduced print area size due to larger print head dissolvable support filament is twice as expensive as normal filament Pretty much our most critical factor is time. From what I have read, the Ulti 3 is slower than an Ulti 2+ on a like for like print, due to the extra weight of the print head (slower movements to compensate for the extra weight). We also print almost exclusively in white PLA filament, so apart from dissolvable support material I don't see much use for 2 colour prints. But easily over 90% of what we do print does not require the use of support material, so the majority of the time dissolvable supports would not be of benefit. It also seems to me that the Ulti 3 is also a bit more fussy than the Ulti 2+? It is obviously a more complicated machine than the Ulti 2+. Just wondering if I am missing anything? Just wondering if those who have or have had both an Ulti 2+/3 could perhaps relay there experiences of using them. I am prepared to be swayed but at the moment can't see that the Ulti 3 would be a clear improvement for us over the 2+ ?
  16. I recently added a 10-Watt laser to my UM2E+ printer. I also have a UM3E printer, which I used to print parts to do this. I have carefully enclosed the printer, ventilated it to outside, added OD3+ door and window for safety, coupled with wearing OD3+ goggles. I've attached a photo of the setup. It functions re asonably well, using both Inkscape and T2Laser software packages. What I would very much appreciate help with now has to do with the printer firmware. I see various comments about firmware mods for related purposes in the community, but I have no experience at all with the software packages mentioned. The particular items that would be most valuable are, first of all, a disabling of the firmware command causing the printer to home the head after each print job. That is no longer possible with the laser attached, since the laser mount would hit the wall just before it gets to the home position. What I do now is simply switch off the printer when it starts to head home. Other items would include the automatic "kickstart" for the fans, I'm using the fan control to provide the control of the laser power. The extra "flashes" when it goes up from zero are not desired. What would perhaps be most useful of all, though, would be the ability to see and control the X, Y, and Z values from the menu and to set the the X, Y, and Z limits that now exist because of the presence of the laser. I will be very interested in any comments or suggestions as to how I should proceed.
  17. Hi, My company purchased last week an Ultimaker 2 Extended+. We have made few tests and we'are pretty pleased with the results. Except that when it goes from a contour to another (walls?!), the printer leaves some marks behind, see picture. I've looked on the Internet and people talk about changing the nozzle temperature and travel speed. I did that, without succes. The parts in the pictures are made after changes. before, with Cura Basic Settings was worse. Any advice? Thanks. IMG_185A: temp. 185ºC, travel speed 175mm/s IMG_190A: temp. 190ºC, travel speed 150mm/s IMG_190B: temp. 190ºC, travel speed 200mm/s
  18. Hello dear ultimaker community, Is there by chance a official full 3D model of an ultimaker 2+ Extended? Because I would like to build my own top and front cover and it would really help me if I have the model. Thanks in advance Me
  19. I'm about to change material on my ultimaker 2+ extended but just as i'm putting the material in the interface I see no option for PP. On this page https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-2-plus it's says it's not optimized for it and on this page https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility?utm_source=cura&utm_medium=software&utm_campaign=resources it's says that it can ???? My firmware is up to date also. Do I choose a random material and change it right before printing?
  20. Jeremi

    TPU95A support

    I would like to print a part in TPU95A on my UM2E+ but the part need to have support because of flat surface so i was wondering if the support can be in TPU95A?
  21. Jeremi

    Support placement

    I have the ultimaker 2+ extended but my question is more about the support section of Cura. Sometime I need support in place that are not touching the building plate but I have some small holes that doesn't need support so I was wondering if there was a option to choose individualy the place I need support and the place I don't?. I'll still use the automatic support finder that the software use when you see red at the support place but I would like to choose which one I want to keep.
  22. hey, So I'm trying to print multiple objects on my UM2+ext, and it underextrudes severly see picture The one below is taulman bridge, no prob in the middle, colorfabb PLA, no prob Up, taulman bridge but printing 20 same models at the same time, Not good on any of them They all use the same settings, can't find the way to copy/past all settings from cura and I'm shure, the settings I'll give you will not be relevant ^^ I'll just say 100% infill, 70mm/s speed, 6.5mm restractation. merci beaucoup !
  23. hello, i'm calibrating my UM2+ext and I'dd like to acces the flow rate in Cura, but it's simply not here, when I check in the options I have put in my taskbar, there is a "!" next to flow and it says : "This setting has been hidden by the value of the G-Code Flavour. Change the value of that setting to make it visible." I don't have this problem chen I change Gcode flavour to marlin or when I use another printer ! it has to do with theUltimaker2 Gcode Flavour, but why ? makes no sens to not access the flow ( or extrusion multiplier, call it has you wish ? ) Anybody has a clue on what's going on ? Merci Beaucoup ?
  24. Yisonco

    Problems with PETG

    After printing parts for weeks with PLA and having a lot of luck, I needed to begin printing with a material that has more rigidity and stability at higher temperatures. I have been trying to print parts varying in complexity with PETG for some time now, and the printer always seems to jam and mess the whole print up. I printed hundreds of calibration blocks and concluded with the following configuration: Door and Cover to stabilize the temperature Part Fan's 0% - little or no bridging necessary Build Plate 80C - this helps to keep chamber around 40C 3m glue on glass build plate Nozzle temperature 150C Flow 100% Retraction 4mm @20mm/s - minor stringing, but better than getting molten material in heat break Extruder tension tight to prevent slipping and grinding, but not to deformation of the filament Printer Speed is 100% - calculated to about 40mm/sec I have used several filaments with similar results. I use a printer dryer to ensure the filament is dry which made the print nicer but did not resolve the problem. The image is of a part that failed during the first two layers, but it is random in the part which makes me think its irregularities in the filament. I tried every temperature from 240C to 270C before settling on 250C. The tests at 260C+ had too much oozing and 240 the filament would not adhere to anything. When the jam occurs, it appears to almost zig-zag as the plastic comes out of the nozzle. Your help is much appreciated.
  25. I’m selling excellent condition um2e+ for 2200$ it has only 10 hrs on it and comes with full spool of Filoment. I’m located in Washington state if interested please do msg me not a lot of them in such prestige condition and low hrs on here don’t let it slip away.

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