Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'UM2E+'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
    • Ultimaker.com feedback
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Materials
    • Modifications, third party add-ons & other hardware
  • 3D print Questions
    • Help, Tips & Tricks
    • 3D modeling software
  • Fields of Work
    • Architecture
    • Engineering
    • Manufacturing
    • Education
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Events and meetings
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


3D printer


About Me


Country


Field of Work


On The Web

Found 93 results

  1. Hi everyone, my printer started printing bad infill and then it prints in the air. How do I get this fixed? thanks for the help
  2. Hi, Like most Universities, we have pooled our 3D printing resources and are producing PPE items. One of the Ulimakers that has come from a different department and it is behaving a little oddly. We are printing a shield design that needs the full bed of the Ultimaker and one one printer, it prints about 15mm forward in the Y-direction. This results in part of the design being flattened (at the extremity of the part) which is not a huge problem but occasionally we are seeing a layer shift. Amongst the printers, we are running 2 UM2+ and 3 UM2ex machines and they are all sharing the same G-Code. The rest of the printers produce identical prints that are correctly centred on the plate. I have performed a factory reset on the machine and there is no visible difference between the printers. I have attached an image of the model printing in the correct and incorrect positions. Any idea what could cause this? Yours, Carl
  3. Hey there! I've been hoping to laser cut a custom Ultimaker Original Plus frame with the dimensions of an UM2 Extended, but I'm having issues sourcing the right materials. I'm in the US, and finding the right metric stuff is difficult. I think I may be able to get away with 1/4" thickness instead of 6mm, but I can't seem to find anything that's the right quality. The closest that I can find is some MDF, and I'd really prefer not to go down that route (moisture, not structurally great, etc). I'd also like to avoid acrylic, though I am making the side panels in frosted acrylic to look somewhat like newer Ultimakers. Here are the files that I'm basing this project on: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275125 So far, I have checked Lowe's, Home Depot, ACE Hardware, various local laser cutters, laser suppliers online, Amazon, and Michaels. None of these places have the right grade of birch plywood I'm after. I emailed Ultimaker support, and they just linked me back to the Github page which only lists "Birch plywood" at 6mm thickness as the material. Further digging has led me to find that this type of material is Baltic birch - that's about all I know. I checked out a few more forum posts to see if anyone is in a similar situation as me, but didn't find them to be that helpful. I did see that someone used "dibond aluminum" which could be an interesting choice. So, long story short: Does anyone know of a US supplier of the material used to make the Ultimaker Original Plus frame? If I have to import from overseas, that's not ideal, but possible. P.S.: I am also considering modifying the front panel of the Original Plus to use the UM2 screen. No real reason, just for aesthetics and maybe quicker response time. Thought I'd throw this in to see if anyone has suggestions. Thank you so much! -Brent
  4. Hi, it is not a problem yet because the prints are still coming out great but our U2E+ is making a strange «grinding» noise when traveling to the x direction. Here's a video of how it sounds. Although I oiled the axles a lot to try to get rid of the sound, it is still here. Any clue on why it makes that and how to resolve to problem? Thank you! :) Sandrine
  5. Hello, I bought an Ultimaker 2 Extended+ via eBay. As they are clones for this machine available which looks just the same as the original I want to make sure I buy an original one. How can I verify that? Thanks and all the best, Cornelius
  6. I inherited a UM2+ when we acquired another small company. I wiped it clean, lubricated, installed Cura 4.x on Win10, updated the firmware, and did an Atomic Clean. When I try to load the feeder I see no signs the feeder is functioning. I squeeze the tension relief lever and load filament until it is visible in the tube, but the Move Material command doesn't move the material. I don't see or feel any sign the knurled feeder is rotating. Any help appreciated, thanks!
  7. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  8. Dear all, Would anyone know what is the problem here? I made 3 times a good 15 hr print on my UM2E+ The 4th time the print suddenly showed a shift on the Y-axis, almost at the end of the print I marked the pulleys, the belts seem tight (so I did not change anything) The 5th print, came out good. The 6th print showed again a shift on the Y-axis, the same way as the 4th print, also the same height At the moment when it happened, I heard a sound, different from normal; a sound like what you hear when you connect with a usb to upgrade the firmware. ( I paused the print, and continued after a while, but the print continued to print at the wrong spot) I checked the marks on 8 pulleys; they are at the same spot. All belts seem tight enough. There are two pulleys connected with the two motor blocks I did not mark however. The two motors can become quite hot. The bottom heat (motherboard) seems okay; that was not really warm when it happened. Would anybody know how I can solve this issue? I know that there are more discussions about this, but some are different. I found this similar topic. Maybe somebody can have a look at my description of the problem? Answers may also be written in Dutch. Pulleys and belts, stepper motor..., the English terminology is sometimes a bit confusing for me. My conclusion so far; -All belts and 8 pulleys seem okay -Prints the same gcode sometimes good and sometimes with shifted layer, after quite some hours of print -When this happens I hear a sound like a "Pòck! I placed my question maybe in the wrong section, here is my original post;
  9. Dear all, I made 3 times a good 15 hr print on my UM2E+ The 4th time the print suddenly showed a shift on the Y-axis, almost at the end of the print I marked the pulleys, the belts seem tight (so I did not change anything) The 5th print, came out good. The 6th print showed again a shift on the Y-axis, the same way as the 4th print, also the same height At the moment when it happened, I heard a sound, different from normal; a sound like what you hear when you connect with a usb to upgrade the firmware. ( I paused the print, and continued after a while, but the print continued to print at the wrong spot) I checked the marks on 8 pulleys; they are at the same spot. All belts seem tight enough. There are two pulleys connected with the two motor blocks I did not mark however. The two motors can become quite hot. The bottom heat (motherboard) seems okay; that was not really warm when it happened. Would anybody know how I can solve this issue? I know that there are more discussions about this, but some are different. I found this similar topic. Maybe somebody can have a look at my description of the problem? Answers may also be written in Dutch. Pulleys and belts, stepper motor..., the English terminology is sometimes a bit confusing for me. My conclusion so far; -All belts and 8 pulleys seem okay -Prints the same gcode sometimes good and sometimes with shifted layer, after quite some hours of print -When this happens I hear a sound like a "Pòck!
  10. Hi! Using my Ultimaker 2 Ext. + for 3 years now with more or less no problems but now everytime i start a print everything looks fine first but after aprox. 20min of printing the error appears and the printer kind of freezes in its current position and is not reacting on any command... -i then have to turn it off and pull the power cable to get this error away. I disassembled the printer now for the 3rd time but everything looks fine: i am messureing 108 Ohm on the solder-pads on the board (betw. point "TP73" and "TP74") and all the way up to the sensor no matter how i stress the cable or the heatbed (i removed the heatbad so i can move it arround to see if there is at one position a connection-problem -but it seams not to be one [always 108 Ohms without interruption]) of course i can not messure while the printer is running but while heating up and the first layers of printing there is everything fine (so the error is not -like in most described cases- from the start). In the worst case i have no problem to change a part but which? bed or board? thx in advance for every hint! best regards! sebastian
  11. Hallo zusammen, ich bräuchte eure Hilfe, da ich etwas am verzweifeln bin. Seit Jahren drucke ich mit meinem Ultimaker 2 Extended + gerne, nicht viel, aber immer wieder mal etwas. Heute früh habe ich einen Druck gestartet und warum auch immer sieht die hintere Wand so wellig aus. Was mir aufgefallen ist, das Druckbett wackelt wenn der Druckkopf an der hinteren Wand entlang saust. Könnte das davon kommen? Wenn ja, was muss ich tun, damit ich wieder eine saubere Wand habe? Würde mich sehr für hilfreiche Tipps freuen.
  12. We got a problem with printing a big cilindercal shape (100x100x300mm). In the appendix some picture of the printing and end-result! The build platform is vibrating a lot! About 4 to 5mm on the end of the build platform. We don't have this problem before with other prints. We are printing with PLA at 204 degrees. If you want more information please let me know!
  13. My nozzle in UM2E+ keeps clogging after few hours of printing, I checked the nozzle and it seems fine , I also checked and cleaned the extruder mechanism. The cooling fan to cool the heat break runs very slowly. Also there seems to be a leak of filament above the nozzle. Could someone point me in the right direction about what needs to be done, I have attached a picture for reference.
  14. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height : 0.15 - Infill density : 30% - Wall Thickness : 2 mm - Flow : 106% - Retraction : enabled, +/- 5 mm - Speed : 40 mm/s - Build plate adhesion : Raft - I've thermally insulated the whole printer With these setting I got : - poor layer adhesion giving a very weak catapult - poor printing precision - no warping You can find enclosed some pictures of the catapult printed with these settings. Thank you so much for your help ! Thibault
  15. New owner here so please go easy on me - Ive only had the printer a week, i decided to try Verbatim PLA white (fancied a change from the UM Silver Pla that was installed at purchase). Having all sorts of trouble under extrusion etc.. Cura Update to 4.3 Offered Firmware update which i opted to do (hoping this would correct said issues). Ok this is were it gets interesting. Since firmware update i have noticed the following changed: Start print -> Head zero's in back left -> bed rises -> head moves to front left -> 50mm of extrusion fast then it slows down.... Now here is my issue, previously the head would move towards the print areas and at the same time raise the bed to meet it, thus maneuvering away from the heap of waste PLA. Not any more - the bed raises and positions the head bang in the pile of PLA and drags it into the the build area. I also have absolutely no control over the nozzle temp which the machine likes to set at 230c which is making the VERB pla bubble.. (too hot). Is there any way of correcting this or at least giving me some control over these issues - or maybe even being able to restore the old firmware back TIA Paul
  16. I just received these parts from www.goprint3d.co.uk. They are sold as genuine Ultimaker replacement glass bed (part 1154) and genuine Ultimaker bowden (part 1266). On their site the pics are of the real deal(as are the part numbers), but what i got seems like cheap and nasty 3rd party parts. The glass bed is not rounded, light weight and doesn't feel like borosilicate glass and the bowden just looks a bit off. Now I've got many replacement glass beds for my Ultimakers over the years and its always been the same high quality glass bed we all know and love. They usually come shrink wrapped and well protected. As you can see in the pics this is how the glass bed arrived to me this time(they did put bubble wrap on it and sent in a plastic bag). Any thoughts? Anyone from Ultimaker confirm these are cheap parts and not the real deal? Thank you
  17. Guys I need help from the collective once again. I have built my own version of the UM2E+ but for the life of me cannot get one print right yet! The printer is running of of Tinker firmware (kudos to the genius who created it!!!) but problem has persisted over various firmware updates. I have been trying to print calibration cubes sliced with Cura & Repetier but every time I seem to have the same problem (the first layer or 2 come out perfectly). At different stages of the print but normally around the 4-8th layer the printer extrudes a very large blob and then the Z axis drops by 1-2mm or so and continues to try to print. I am running my bed from a separate power supply through a MOSFET and printing PLA+ at 210degC the print speed has also been reduced. As per previous suggestions I have reduced the current to all my motors as I initially thought that the drivers were overheating so my X/Y axis is 1000, Z axis 900 & extruder 1000. I have also changed the extruder motor from a Nema17 x 35mm to a Nema17 45mm @ 0.9 degree steps and have the step count and length completely perfect (had the same problem with both motor versions). I have fitted a large heat sink and forced air fan to all the stepper drivers but nothing has helped, the heat sink doesn't seem to get overly hot. Z axis has also been tweaked to move the correct amount IWO steps/mm etc. Can anyone share some thoughts on what the problem and a possible solution is?
  18. Hi everyone, I bought 2.85mm PLA filament (Brazilian brand), and after printing for hours, everything is going well, but I noticed that during printing the nozzle was printing in the air, far from the piece and no filament extruding. Immediately I stopped printing, I tried to do the normal filament removal procedure, but the filament got stuck. I also tried the printer's Move function, but still the filament got stuck. So I opened Feeder and the filament was "choking" inside. I removed the filament and I did the complete feeder cleaning and also printer maintenance. As you can see in the picture, I cut this filament, and you can see that there is a problem with Feeder Tension. Currently, in Ultimaker 2+ Extended, Feeder tension is exactly in the middle and I had never changed. But for this filament I would need to change the feeder tension. In the same photo, keeping the same tension in the middle and leveling the table, I did a first layer calibration test and then I tried to print a small bust, and as you can see it's completely horrible. I would like to know from you what would be the ideal tension for this filament, the marker is in the middle of the feeder. So I have to put the mark up or down to fix this problem? Would it be clockwise to loosen the tension (raising the marker a little)? If so, how much would I need to loosen? Thank you for your help.
  19. Hi, I have 3 printers Ultimaker 2+ Extended and with 2 of them I have a big problem with the materials- they are only printing from ABS if I am changing the material from ABS to PLA or TPU it is printing only few layers and it stops. With one printer I have the problem from almost 4-6 months but with the second printer the problem begun week ago. I do not know where is the problem - I already change the bowden tube, hot end isolator and PTFE coupler and the nozzle. Thanks for any help!
  20. I noticed recently that a few things were coming loose on the bed of one of my Ultimaker 2+ Extended machines while printing and I just couldn't understand it. But then I happened to touch the glass plate while running a print and it was warm, but not near the 60c i had it set to(its displays 60c in the menu). So sure enough I got my thermometer out and measure then bed at about 40c, not 60c. If i increase the set temp to 75c I'm getting around 60c. My thermometer is a bit crappy so it could be off by 5c. I use hair spray on the glass plate usually which is why the things were coming loose, it needs around 50-55c to hold PLA down. I use it more as a release mechanism rather than to hold the print in place. Anyway, I checked all the connections and everything looks fine and I'm not getting any errors. Its the newer print bed as I purchased and installed it late last year. Any ideas as to what it might be? I mean i can print fine if i just tell it to heat the bed to 75c, but i really dont understand whats going on.
  21. Guys I am in dire need of your assistance.... So I took on the challenge of building a cloned Ultimaker 2 Extended (with a few self mods) but have run into a problem at the last hurdle. So basically the first layer goes down incredibly well with the X & Y axis printing out perfectly and dimensions are perfect too but thats when things to to hell. After the second layer or so there seems to be both an issue with under extrusion and Z axis height. Now I have both checked the step height on the Z axis and the extruder and both are moving at acceptable distances. I.e I have moved the Z axis 25mm and the resulting movement has 25.195 (i am an engineer with advances measuring equipment) the same goes with the extruder I have extruded 50mm of material and have measured 52.5 (a little over I know but wouldn't explain under extrusion). In an attempt to alleviate this issue I updated the firmware to TinkerMaker but the problem still persists. I have also added a cooling fan to the stepper drivers which has made no difference. The power supply is a 24V 15A so should be able to handle things, I have reduced bed temperature to 25DegC just in case I was overloading. I am basically at the pulling out of hair stage and could be doing with a fresh perspective if anyone could help.
  22. Dear Ultimakerists, I am having an issue using the full print height of our UM2E+. The model is just under 300mm, and I am printing from 0 i.e. not raft. The preview (below) shows that CURA (4.1.0) believes it will print but I have tried twice and the print stops at 225mm and the printer throws a "ERROR: tried to print out of printing area". I can see how the print might fail closer to the Z height limit but 75mm short seems strange. I have checked that the Printer Settings are set to 305mm Z height. It is very possible I am missing something very obvious, so ahve attached the project file. Any help is greatly appreciated. UM2E_part.3mf
  23. Hello guys! Recently I've experienced some extrusion issues with the ultimaker 2 extended+ I have at work. The machine is around three years old and has ran day and night in some cases, but I always did my maintenance!. As the images show the extrusion stops mid print at random heights.. To prevent this form happening I've replaced the PTFE Coupler and tube, nozzle and heating element, all of them original ofcourse. At the moment im printing with a 0.6 nozzle at different layer heights (0.2-0.3) as I am printing quite large objects. Some prints succeed but most of them fail and I'm at this point were im out of ideas.. The filament should be okay since I've used it for a long time without any issues. It seems that the nozzle clogs most of the times because when I push some filament through by hand to clean the nozzle a watery drop of filament falls out of the nozzle. This is quite strange as this just randomly started to happen, didnt change the temperature or anything really in cura. Increasing the temp and/or material flow during the print gives a temporary fix but will fail mostly in the end anyway. Soo, has anyone experienced the same issue and maybe has a solution?. Thanks in advance! Loek
  24. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
×
×
  • Create New...