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  1. Guys I am in dire need of your assistance.... So I took on the challenge of building a cloned Ultimaker 2 Extended (with a few self mods) but have run into a problem at the last hurdle. So basically the first layer goes down incredibly well with the X & Y axis printing out perfectly and dimensions are perfect too but thats when things to to hell. After the second layer or so there seems to be both an issue with under extrusion and Z axis height. Now I have both checked the step height on the Z axis and the extruder and both are moving at acceptable distances. I.e I have moved the Z axis 25mm and the resulting movement has 25.195 (i am an engineer with advances measuring equipment) the same goes with the extruder I have extruded 50mm of material and have measured 52.5 (a little over I know but wouldn't explain under extrusion). In an attempt to alleviate this issue I updated the firmware to TinkerMaker but the problem still persists. I have also added a cooling fan to the stepper drivers which has made no difference. The power supply is a 24V 15A so should be able to handle things, I have reduced bed temperature to 25DegC just in case I was overloading. I am basically at the pulling out of hair stage and could be doing with a fresh perspective if anyone could help.
  2. Dear Ultimakerists, I am having an issue using the full print height of our UM2E+. The model is just under 300mm, and I am printing from 0 i.e. not raft. The preview (below) shows that CURA (4.1.0) believes it will print but I have tried twice and the print stops at 225mm and the printer throws a "ERROR: tried to print out of printing area". I can see how the print might fail closer to the Z height limit but 75mm short seems strange. I have checked that the Printer Settings are set to 305mm Z height. It is very possible I am missing something very obvious, so ahve attached the project file. Any help is greatly appreciated. UM2E_part.3mf
  3. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  4. Hello guys! Recently I've experienced some extrusion issues with the ultimaker 2 extended+ I have at work. The machine is around three years old and has ran day and night in some cases, but I always did my maintenance!. As the images show the extrusion stops mid print at random heights.. To prevent this form happening I've replaced the PTFE Coupler and tube, nozzle and heating element, all of them original ofcourse. At the moment im printing with a 0.6 nozzle at different layer heights (0.2-0.3) as I am printing quite large objects. Some prints succeed but most of them fail and I'm at this point were im out of ideas.. The filament should be okay since I've used it for a long time without any issues. It seems that the nozzle clogs most of the times because when I push some filament through by hand to clean the nozzle a watery drop of filament falls out of the nozzle. This is quite strange as this just randomly started to happen, didnt change the temperature or anything really in cura. Increasing the temp and/or material flow during the print gives a temporary fix but will fail mostly in the end anyway. Soo, has anyone experienced the same issue and maybe has a solution?. Thanks in advance! Loek
  5. I finally finished the TL Smoother install on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended. Smoothers: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GR5SNNG Heatsinks: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07NVF5BYY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the below smoother case as a start and redesigned it a little to suit my needs. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3499652 Before the heatsinks and better smoother case tops. Heatsinks and smoother case tops with XYZ cutouts installed. I also grabbed a concrete slab to use as a base for the printer(was using thin granite before this). I covered the corners with some spongy/rubbery material and left the centre uncovered to help with cooling. I'm still testing the smoothers but they have definitely reduced/removed the salmon skin/zebra stripes on my prints. A side effect of the smoothers seems to be quieter operation of the printer. I'm not sure it's actually more silent(as in the decibel level), but the tone has changed and seems lower and less noticeable. One thing, definitely get heatsinks if you are going to be using these, they get hot and you want to be pulling as much of that heat away as possible. I also installed heatsinks on the stepper driver chips on the main pcb in case they get hotter while running with the smoothers installed(they run pretty warm as it is anyway). I'll continue testing and report any issues here. .
  6. Hi! Using my Ultimaker 2 Ext. + for 3 years now with more or less no problems but now everytime i start a print everything looks fine first but after aprox. 20min of printing the error appears and the printer kind of freezes in its current position and is not reacting on any command... -i then have to turn it off and pull the power cable to get this error away. I disassembled the printer now for the 3rd time but everything looks fine: i am messureing 108 Ohm on the solder-pads on the board (betw. point "TP73" and "TP74") and all the way up to the sensor no matter how i stress the cable or the heatbed (i removed the heatbad so i can move it arround to see if there is at one position a connection-problem -but it seams not to be one [always 108 Ohms without interruption]) of course i can not messure while the printer is running but while heating up and the first layers of printing there is everything fine (so the error is not -like in most described cases- from the start). In the worst case i have no problem to change a part but which? bed or board? thx in advance for every hint! best regards! sebastian
  7. Selling our slightly used UM2E+ and will throw in 4 Rolls of material for $1450 or best offer plus shipping -Ultimaker 2+ extended with all original parts and accessories included. -Upgraded hardened micro swiss 0.4mm nozzle -4 rolls of filamentum Rapunzel silver PLA filament - 1 roll of protopasta stainless steel PLA This printer is from a business and we can accept credit cards.. Please reply to thread or contact at work email privately at adam.ostroff@homedics.com
  8. Not sure this fits in the mod section here, but wasn't sure where else to put it. I was doing some work and upgrades on my Ultimaker 2+ Extended a little while back and had the machine upside down. I decided to give upside down printing a go as I'd wanted to try it for a long time. It works well and might open up some interesting printing options :0) As you can see in the pics I've got a top section on my printer, so this allows me to just sit the printer upside down without restricting the bowden tube etc.
  9. So the official height of the Z axis on the Ultimaker 2+ Extended is 305mm. Using the S3D machine control panel I was testing the x and y axis sizes as I was having a centering issue(which i now understand). While i was at it i decided to see what the actual height of the Z axis is, which on my machine is 312mm! I did a test print to see if i can actually print that height and it does indeed go up to 312mm without issue(was a quick vase mode print). Is there any technical reason for not using the extra height? I mean it's only an extra 7mm, but that could be useful for tall prints without having to resize or split etc.
  10. Hi! Any clues why the BACK of the print looks near awesome but the FRONT looks like CRAP?? (sides look ok too). PLA print on UM2E+ with latest official firmware and olson Ruby nozzle 0.4 printing at 50mm/s. (Yes, I've checked the STL for manifold errros and the Gcode and both look fine) The printer has an enclosure installed but I printed this with the door open and the ambient temperature is currently low, like 16-18ºC and since the rear part was printed fine, I don't think it's about too much heat, plus the PLA i'm using has a higher melting point than regular PLA...
  11. Hey, I am facing some problems hope someone can help me with it, I have been using my UM3 and UM2+ for a while and i never had such an issue; recently i have got a new laptop and since then whenever i try slicing any model using any profile either (Extra Fine/Fine/Normal/Fast) or any custom profiles it shows me this message, CURA does not crash anyway it only stop the process of slicing. hope someone can help me with this issue
  12. Hi UM Community, I thought I would share my experience upgrading an Ultimaker 2 Extended + with the Mark2 Dual Extrusion upgrade. At the end of this post I have a list of open questions. Hopefully someone can comment on them (@tinkergnome , @foehnsturm). I bought an official Extrusion upgrade kit as well as the expansion board. I followed the steps 1-6 listed at https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/step-1-getting-the-parts.html Some modifications and clarifications were needed: Step 3: To get the new stepper motor to the control board it was required to extend the stepper motor cable since this is a taller printer. I bought some JST XH 3S 4-pin connectors to make the extension cable The official extrusion upgrade kit extruder housing comes with an aluminum backplate now. So when attaching it to the feeder-mount.stl the screws needed to be countersunk to fit m3 screws under the aluminum backplate. Step 4: The m3 holes on the expansion board holder were too small had to be drilled out Step 5: It is not specifically mention which firmware to select during step 5. I selected firmware: Tinker-Mark2-extended-expansion-board-17.09.hex In addition the following needed to be modified for the extended Ultimaker: modified cura printer definition: Mark2_for_Ultimaker2.def.json "machine_height": { "default_value": 305 I also modified the backplate image and definition to include "extended" The printer would shutdown when heating both nozzles. I had to modify the power budget: total was reduced to 100W Step 6: calibration: x -13 y -5 park position: moved y only slightly to have 1mm between magnet and print head Next Steps: Build a second filament spool holder, recommendations welcome Generally organize filament Open Questions: In order to disable the second print head for single material prints, a second printer profile is used which has only one extruder? This is also how to reactivate the setting "Print Sequence One at a Time" In order to stop the Ultimaker from shutting down I had to modify the power budget. I read on the forum that some buy a larger PSU, but I cant find details. Is a 280W PSU sufficient? https://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GST280A24/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=171084&GROUPID=4950&artnr=MW+GST280A24&trstct=pol_0 Is there any way to get a bed leveling sensor into the Mark2 firmware? Hope this post helps someone else upgrading their Ultimaker to a Mark2 Many thanks to tinkergnome and foehnsturm for their work on the Mark2! best Jesse
  13. We have been having a heat sensor error on our printer so we have bought a new plate kit from 3D GB Ire. first off I`ve noticed that the shape of the new plate is a little different, I`m hoping its just an upgraded part. But my biggest issue is that none of the wires on the new cable are colour coded like the original. There were no instructions sent with the kit so I`m guessing I`m going to have to just do a continuity check on the new cable to match them up with the correct connections on the bed and circuit board? Also while the printer is apart I have noticed that the circuit board is seeing some heat discolouration. Is this normal ? Thanks, Andy
  14. I'm wondering if anyone might have some thoughts on the "Z Axis Movement Speed" setting in Simplify3D? The defaults is usually 16.7mm/s, but I've seen mention of using 40mm/s on the Ultimaker 2+ series of printers. I assume the firmware will limit the speed anyway, but what is the actual speed recommended by Ultimaker? 16.7mm/s and 40mm/s just don't sound correct to me, but I'm open to being educated on this :) So just to be clear, although I'm talking about S3D I'd really like to know what the official line from Ultimaker is on the Z speed(no matter the software using the setting). Thanks
  15. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1 but the problems seem to persist. Any ideas on what's wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot next? Could there be multiple issues? Thanks for the help.
  16. I want to add dual extrusion to my UM2+ Currently (as far as I can tell) there are two projects that deal with Dual Extrusion on the UM2+ ULTICREATR 2X http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/ulticreatr/164-ulticreatr-2x.html#/52-printer-ultimaker_2 Mark2 https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/ From what little I can gather, the Ulticreatr 2x setup would have issues with the nozzle hitting the part, the temperature from one nozzle creeping into the other, and oozing. Is this really an issue with the Ulticreatr 2x? Does anyone have first hand experience with this setup? The videos/images on their site are very pretty. The Mark2 looks like it would reduce the printable area on the bed because it has to park the second carriage (it would also take longer to print if there are lots of color changes). Is this an accurate assessment? Are these the only two options? What does it take to build a Dual Extrusion setup? If I were to build my own Dual Extrusion by utilizing the existing parts (similar to how the Ulticreatr 2x works) what more is needed other than a second extruder, motor, bowden, and a nozzle/heatblock set? I guess this question is more of a: Why would I spend $705 USD on the Ulticreatr 2x when I can just buy the parts I need for half that?
  17. hey 🙂 Was wondering, my extruders motors keep dying on my UM2+ after 6 months, happened to me 3 times already in 1.5 years... I switched to the bondtech extruder, but it apparently requires more torque... so the question is, how fat of a motor can I install on it ? like, how much power can the motherboard spare for the extruder motor ? Because I'm really tired of printing at 30mm/s and still getting under extrusion with PLA because of a flipping motor 😕 Thanks ^^
  18. I use 3mm material and it no matter what I do it comes out stringy and doesn't print here's a video: https://vimeo.com/user93684507/review/310232189/5c69475deb
  19. Hi everybody, Usually I find the solutions for my troubles by searching on the web. But, on that specific case, I don't see anything similar... So : See attached pictures, you will notice that the print is ok on one side but very ugly on the other. Being a Fabmanager wasn't there when that print was sent. I tried to print a cube to see if the trouble is reproductible. Yes it is! The bed is shaking but only when the head moves in the y axis and it get worse when the head is closer to the back of the printer (I call the back the side of the printer where the Z lead screw is). I tried : - leveling the bed (many many times) - adding more tension to the spring of the bed in order for them to be stiffer - increasing the extruder temperature (I even went to 230C!) - printing the cube with no filament (to see if the vibration is still there; kind of air guitar!) : less vibration but a noise. Any advice will be very appreciated.
  20. Hi all! Is anyone selling a used Ultimaker 2, 2+ and 3 in the UK? Looking to update my current printer. Cheers!
  21. Hallo hat die Firmware schon wer getestet? Gibt es seit November aber Pre Release. Habe einen Ultimaker 2+ und bin noch auf 17.10.1
  22. Hi everybody, We've just bought an Ultimaker 2 extended + and being new to the 3D printing world we are trying to print out simple objects with different filaments. I couldn't figure out the right settings to print out a micro catapult from Thingiverse with FormFutura TitanX filament (datasheet). Here are the settings of my last try : - Material : FormFutura TitanX White - Printing T° : 260°C - Build Plate T° : 85°C - Fan Speed : 20% - Regular fan speed : 5% - Max. fan speed : 20% - Nozzle Ø: 0.4 mm - Layer Height : 0.15 - Infill density : 30% - Wall Thickness : 2 mm - Flow : 106% - Retraction : enabled, +/- 5 mm - Speed : 40 mm/s - Build plate adhesion : Raft - I've thermally insulated the whole printer With these setting I got : - poor layer adhesion giving a very weak catapult - poor printing precision - no warping You can find enclosed some pictures of the catapult printed with these settings. Thank you so much for your help ! Thibault
  23. Hi, it is not a problem yet because the prints are still coming out great but our U2E+ is making a strange «grinding» noise when traveling to the x direction. Here's a video of how it sounds. Although I oiled the axles a lot to try to get rid of the sound, it is still here. Any clue on why it makes that and how to resolve to problem? Thank you! :) Sandrine
  24. Salut à tous !: ) J’aimerais savoir si vous avez une solution top pour maintenir mon axe qui ce ballade dans le bloc noir. J'ai déjà dégraissé rien n'y fait. Un fichier stl ? Collé l'axe ? Merci
  25. I’m selling my ultimaker 2 extended +. It was originally an ultimaker 2 extended and I upgraded it with a kit. The only issue with the printer is that the led lights are not working properly. Their replacement costs around 30€. I’m looking for 1250€. The printer is in Bulgaria.
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