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Found 20 results

  1. BrayChristopher

    Olsson Block Help

    We have an UM2. I finally upgraded the hot block to an Olsson hot block and Micro Swiss Wear Resistant Nozzle. Of course, now the UM2 and I look like we both forgot how to print things. I had to raise the temp to print PLA. Is this normal? PETG is making me lose my mind. I used to get good prints like this. Now it looks like this It is hard to see, but the hairs and bumpy surface happen where the "base" of the part stops and the "walls" start. It is easier to see this on this larger part. Here is a section view. I am using Simplify 3D and always have. Same materials. I didn't change any of the settings during this print. This artifact does not align with the layer that the fans start (50%). Any ideas??? Please and thanks. Also, I was getting temp errors so I wrapped up the hot block in ceramic wool. Is that normal? Is there a magic nozzle that doesn't stick to PETG? Gross.
  2. OllieOlsen

    Material Print Setting PDF

    Hi All, So a while back i found a file on the ultimaker website that had a list of all materials that all the printers could use. It also had all the heat settings for the nozal and bed. I had this printed out but then lost it. Does anyone know where in the hell it is on the ultimaker website as i cant find it? Any help would be amazing Ollie
  3. dennispo

    Sexy girl

    Sexy girl for all of you!
  4. Oh masters of the Ultimaker universe I am printing a cross gaurd on my UM2E and it printed perfectly until the last 11 minutes then it slipped somehow and the filament isn't cooling fast enough and I am getting gobbly goop. I am using simplify3D and have changed the fan setting to 100% for layers less than 3 seconds. What else can be done?
  5. Plushberry

    Extrusion stopping early into print

    Hello everyone, I have been printing with this printer with relatively high success for all of my previous prints. i switched to PETG, and didnt have an issue printing with that either. As soon as I went back to PLA, i began running into trouble. I am trying to print pieces for an architectural model for school but so far the printer has not been able to make it past the first layer successfully. I have not tried the file in a few days, since I am trying to fix the printer. Today I did many minicaltests to see if the printer was working better (I originally thought the issue may have been high tension on the drive gear) and I got inconsistent results. For some reason the printer seemed to be working fine when I was staring at it as it printed but when I let it run by itself, it is unable to properly finish the last few layers of the calibration. I have performed the atomic pull a few times and even replaced the nozzle, so I do not think it has anything to do with the previous material, though I may of course be very wrong there.
  6. The last days, my printer stops random during printing. I use the latest version of Cura and print from the SD card. I tryed sevrall things: First I formatted the SD card and let Cura recode the subject. Same Problem. Second I refressed the firmware. This was workiung. Next print nwas OK. Than I run another print, but than the printer stopped during Printing again. I refressed the firmware again, and the nextprint was OK. The following print went wrong again. Please help
  7. Hardly Even Been used. Selling My Ultimaker 2 Extended with great regret, Selling Due to unfortunate evens. Original Packaging. Also have ABS, PLA Martial with it and will be included. please let me know if your interested, I'm in Australia, South Australia
  8. Tim_bc

    Bent Frame

    Hey Guys, So...... I've been using my Ultimaker 2 Extended for a while now, and have been very happy with the performance of the machine.... Well, until about 3 days ago I've been very happy..... Long story short, I've had a few requests for larger prints, and this was the first time I was going to do a print which covered basically the entire print volume. I kept getting failure after failure, and could not understand what was going on. I've checked the glass and it has the slighest warp in it, and I had a screw that was not completely flush with the print bed. So I fixed the screw hole and made the screw flush, recalibrated everything and failure after failure again.... I did some reading, and found a few threads here about people experiencing simliar issues, and after spending the last 3 days have come to the conclusion my frame is bent. It wasn't until now I've discovered this because all of my prints have generally been a small footprint, and they turned out great.... I've done the typical loosen all screws holding the frame together and tried banging the corners with my hand trying to encourage the frame to become square, but it simply does not seem to want to happen. I've also had a significant amount of trouble trying to find a perfectly level spot to do this... Any suggestions on this? I've tried squaring the frame several times, and each time after tightening the screws I experience the same issues..... I know for a fact my bed is being levelled properly as after I run through the routine I check it with a level in all three dimensions and it comes out perfect.... So it must be the frame not being square right? This is becoming a serious pain in the ass, as I have had to cancel some prints for people because the printer cannot reliably print a large footprint... Does anyone have any suggestions how to approach this problem? Because honestly, the printer does me no good if I cannot print large volumes. I might aswell bought a Go.... or regular Ultimaker 2. The benefit of having the larger print volume is null and void. I'm seriously getting frustrated as I need to figure this out. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. At the moment, my biggest challenge is trying to find a spot that is perfectly level to square the frame..... Also, when I do find a spot that is perfectly level, how aggressive should I be in banging the frame? It appears everything I've done so far has had little to no effect whatsoever.... Thanks if advance!~
  9. When using an Ultimaker 2 Extended, the glass base plate is chipping whenever I print something. The glass flakes off in thin layers and attaches to the print when removed. Any ideas why this may be happening? I have attached a photo of a chipped base plate.
  10. I am based in Hamburg, Germany and I sell my Ultimaker Extendet 2 which I bought new from from iGo3D in Hannover in June 2015. Original price was 2520,- Euro I offer it now for 1250,- Euro, negotiation is still possible. The machine ist in a very good state. Printingtime done about 500 hours. Along with the printer you get the "Hot End Pack 1552", 1 role Innoflex 45 Black ABS and one role PLA Green. You can see 2 Demos here: /
  11. Our Ultimaker 2 Extended seems to have developed a rattle. It seems to be coming from the belt gear area. Is anyone else experiencing this rattle?
  12. cairn

    incorrect Y axis origin

    Not sure if this is an Ulti or an S3D question, but when I import a model (into S3D) and press center and arrange, the print will look good in the preview, but end up offset on the print-bed +4.5mm in the Y axis, and if it's too big, the print head will 'hit the wall' :(. I guess I need to either change the machine firmware setup, or change the machine definition in S3D. Any ideas? Thanks, Cairn (edit: My machine: UM2 Ext )
  13. Hello All, I got a Bocusini Paste Extruder from a Kickstarter pledge about 18 months ago, and it has taken me this long to source a suitable printer to install it on. It is essentially a syringe type paste extruder with a geared plunger and heater. Now I have finally managed to install it on an UM2 extended, I am starting to wonder whether I could just use the regular UM2 (modified) firmware rather than their restrictive proprietary one. I am not intending to print food, but rather silicone and other experimental paste materials. The motor that normally runs the extruder here lowers the plunger to squeeze out material. It's not too different from the way it usually works. Do I need to adjust the E Steps/mm and acceleration? If so, how do I do that and how do I calculate the new settings? Is there anything else in the firmware I might need to modify? Any help at all would be much appreciated...
  14. Clarity

    Z-Axis skips

    Hello everyone. Having UM2 Extended for about a week already, and generally it's fine.. Except ABS clogging and one more trouble getting me every few prints. When I leave printer unattended, almost every time at the random layer, platform jumps a good 5 cm down ruining the print. Anyone had this issue? I searched and found only hardware-related issues. but mine seems fine when lowering/raising platform. Also I'm using cura and sometimes S3D when I need supports. It seems this happens while using S3D, but I'm not completely sure. Thanks in advance!
  15. I'm using an Ultimaker 2 Extended printer. In a recent printed piece, some scale distortion occurred. The piece has about 7 cm height and it was compressed about 4mm. Measurements revealed that lower layers were compressed and higher layers seem ok. What could cause that behavior? During that printing I could hear some clicks and I've noticed those clicks were originated from the platform because I could feel it touching on the platform. Can it be a malfunction?
  16. Do any of you have the stl files of this component so that you can do to accomplish with a lathe machine? Also you believe that it is useful to be replaced instead of the spring and the olsson block from 1,75mm?
  17. Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  18. I want to add dual extrusion to my UM2+ Currently (as far as I can tell) there are two projects that deal with Dual Extrusion on the UM2+ ULTICREATR 2X http://www.shop.creatr.it/en/ulticreatr/164-ulticreatr-2x.html#/52-printer-ultimaker_2 Mark2 https://magnetic-tool-changer.com/ From what little I can gather, the Ulticreatr 2x setup would have issues with the nozzle hitting the part, the temperature from one nozzle creeping into the other, and oozing. Is this really an issue with the Ulticreatr 2x? Does anyone have first hand experience with this setup? The videos/images on their site are very pretty. The Mark2 looks like it would reduce the printable area on the bed because it has to park the second carriage (it would also take longer to print if there are lots of color changes). Is this an accurate assessment? Are these the only two options? What does it take to build a Dual Extrusion setup? If I were to build my own Dual Extrusion by utilizing the existing parts (similar to how the Ulticreatr 2x works) what more is needed other than a second extruder, motor, bowden, and a nozzle/heatblock set? I guess this question is more of a: Why would I spend $705 USD on the Ulticreatr 2x when I can just buy the parts I need for half that?
  19. Hi. Recently I've "upgraded" my UM2Ext and closed the build chamber. I've also changed the position of the motors and they are now mounted outside (I even added heatsinks to the X and Y motors although they are pretty cool.) The ABS printing has improved much and almost no lifts occur. The temp in the top of the chamber is around 60 degrees C. and it is achieved only by the heated bed. I would like to crank it up to 100 C. in order to eliminate internal stresses inside the printed item and to 100% eliminate raft lifts during printings. I was thinking about adding a closed loop system comprised of a heating element, a fan, thermocouple and a CPU, such as Arduino (I'm not aware/ sure if the UM2 motherboard could run a script for a separate heating system nor provide the power for one). I'm pretty sure you can buy a COTS heating system, or someone probably have done something like that. Any thoughts ? Sincerely, Guy.
  20. PEAN

    Ventilation

    Good afternoon, Ventilation my Ultimaker 2 Extended crashed despite being selected in Cura. What is the solution to this problem? Thank you, Pedro
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