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Found 546 results

  1. Hi to all, What are the best settings for nylon with carbon fiber? And I must choose nylon in Um3 when I load that filament? Thank you and sorry for my english 😊
  2. It is often not so clear how to use 3rd party materials with the UM3 or S5 printers. So I want to give some hints and answers to the common problems and questions. Ultimaker materials Ultimaker materials come with an NFC tag in the spool and the printer is able to read the NFC tag and can detect the material and color during the loading process. Internally the NFC tag contains a unique ID which is then matched against a material database or something like that in the printer software. So if you have loaded UM material which was automatically detected by the printer, then you just have to select the UM material profile in Cura or read the configuration directly from the printer by clicking on the printer at the top right corner in Cura and you are perfectly prepared for printing. The printer cannot detect the Ultimaker material If you have the very rare case that your UM spool cannot be detected by the printer (I have one Black PLA with that problem) then it could be that the NFC reader is not working correctly or that just the ID of the spool is not in the database. In such a case, you have to handle the spool like any other 3rd party material. 3rd party materials If you load 3rd party material, the NFC tag cannot be detected and therefore you will be asked which material you want to load. The list shows all the preconfigured materials that are supported by the printer. For example, you want to load a ColorFabb PLA material, then you should choose PLA from the list and the material will be loaded. In Cura you should select in that case the generic PLA profile otherwise, you will get a warning message that your loaded material in the printer doesn't match with the material you have configured in Cura. You can override this message but it can be avoided by choosing the correct profile. What if you place your Ultimaker PVA material in a Drybox or something like that? Then you have to handle the UM PVA as a 3rd party one. The UM profiles and the generic one are identical, so there is no difference except that you will always get a warning message if you choose a UM profile in Cura and have a material loaded which was not detected automatically by the printer. So as a general rule, if the material was detected by the printer, use Ultimaker profiles, otherwise use the generic ones. Different material types With PLA it is easy because the generic profile is named PLA and your 3rd party material normally also. But what if you buy ColorFabb XT, HT, ngen or some other PETG material and you cannot find it in the material list on the printer? In that case, you have to know that these materials are all of some kind of copolyester and Ultimaker CPE and CPE+ are also copolyester materials. So you just have to choose a material from the list which is similar to the material you want to load. It is enough when you look for the print temperature because this is the only information the printer needs to know to load the material. (heat up the nozzle to extrude some material) It doesn't matter if you choose CPE+ or Nylon or whatever for your 3rd party material if the print temperature is nearly the same. But in Cura you have to take care, that you choose the corresponding generic profile for your print job. Again, if you have selected Nylon on the printer and then use the generic CPE profile you will get the warning message. How to add your own material profiles in Cura? The best start is to duplicate a generic profile and then modify the settings you want. There is one setting which is important and this is called "Material Type". This field must match the name of the material you choose when loading the material on the printer. Otherwise, you will get again a warning message that the materials don't match. For example, you want to create a custom profile for ColorFabb XT. We know that XT is very similar to Ulitmakers CPE and therefore we duplicate the generic CPE profile. You can choose anything you want for "Display Name" and "Brand" but not for "Material Type", this should show "CPE". When you now load your XT in the printer, choose CPE from the list when you are asked for the material and in Cura you choose your custom ColorFabb XT profile which matches with the material type of the printer. It is also important, that you duplicate the generic profile you want to use during loading. So duplicating the generic PLA profile for using with CPE will also throw an error (warning message) because your new custom profile got the GUID from PLA and not CPE. So be carful when creating custom profiles. The future? With the new marketplace materials, there is a new possibility to download specific predefined profiles and I heard that there will also be the possibility to "upload" such profiles to the printer. So with an upcoming firmware, it should be possible to get the material type of such a profile in the material list of the printer. I don't know if this will work also with your own custom profiles, but we will see. I hope I have covered the most common issues and questions, if something is missing or not correct, please let me know that I can edit and correct this post.
  3. Hallo allemaal, ik ben nieuw hier en dit is mijn eerste vraag over de UM3 waar ik geen antwoord op kon vinden. Mocht dit elders al besproken zijn verwijs mij dan aub naar die post. 😉 Ik heb sinds 2 weken eigen UM3 thuis staan, op mijn school waar ik techniekles geef hebben wij er ook een en die ervaringen hebben mij doen besluiten privé ook voor UM3 te kiezen. beschrijving: Ik hoor bij iedere print, ongeacht materiaal een metaal achtig tikkend geluid uit de UM3 komen. Na lang zoeken heb ik het geluid kunnen lokaliseren achter-onder in de machine bij de Z-as (stappenmotor..?). Het geluid veranderd nagelang de snelheid en richting (X-Y) van de printkop. Het is geluid is ook voelbaar als ik tijdens het printen mijn vinger tegen de Z-as houd, daar voelt de frequentie van tikken geluid aan het geluid. Antwoord van de leverancier: Dit klopt inderdaad, sommige UM3 hebben dat geluid en dat word veroorzaakt doordat de machine bed-leveling toepast tijdens het printen. Advies leverancier: Het bed handmatig afstellen met de calibration card en de stelschroeven onder het bed. Dit heb ik gedaan maar het heeft geen effect en lijkt zelfs iets meer te zijn nu. De UM3 die bij mij op school staat heeft dit tikkend geluid helemaal niet en heb ik nooit kunnen opmerken in de 1,5 jaar dat wij hem daar hebben. Vanwaar mijn vragen uit voortkomen omdat ik vermoed dt dit tikkend geluid niet hoort voor een machine in deze prijsklasse. Vragen: Wie herkend dit mogelijk "probleem"? Wat is de oplossing die jullie toegepast hebben om het tikkend geluid te verhelpen? Ik hoor graag van jullie. Vriendelijke groet, Marijn
  4. Hi, I am a newer with ultimaker 3. I just confused why it can change 2 nozzle during printing. They have a patent or something? could you share it to me? And the different between nozzle AA and BB is geometer. what kind of geometer that I cannot find in its website. Thank!
  5. frankie_um3


    Hi i 'm using um3 and i ve problems with pva.. please help me.. i buy um3 for pva's supports!
  6. needsmorecoolant

    Ripple Where Part Meets Plate

    Hello everyone. I recently bought an Ultimaker 3 and started making inspection kits for work. I am printing in Tough PLA with the default Cura profile. I am getting ripples (left side of block) on the bottom of the print where it meets the glass. I see it along the X axis surface but not on the Y axis surface. I get the same ripples when skewing the part 5 degrees from parallel with the X axis. Machine firmware is current and Cura is updated to the latest version. I checked my short belts and they are tight, long belts maybe could be tighter but they are the same in X as they are in Y. Has anyone experienced this type of artifact?
  7. There are a few other topics floating around that discuss accuracy and calibration of the printers, but my issue seems to be above and beyond. First off, I am running a UM3 with 0.4mm Cores, mostly MatterHackers PRO PLA and PRO Nylon material. The issue is that my parts are consistently 0.010" (0.25mm) over size on outside dimensions (OD/PIN), and 0.015" on inside dimensions (ID/HOLE). I have spent a lot of time printing calibration cubes and if I print a single wall cube with 0% infill, my print comes out perfect - as in, +/-0.001 with the occasional 0.005 outlier - but I can live with that, this is a CNC machine. However, as soon as I add multiple walls, the part grows (consistently) to +0.010 overall. This is true for 2 walls, 3, 4, and so on. I can print 6+ walls with the same result. Since the single wall part prints perfect, I have to assume that my material calibration is correct - right? Hopefully this describes the issue thoroughly enough. To combat this issue I have tried: -->negative horizontal expansion This *sometimes* works, but some surfaces (typically inner diameters) and angled surfaces do not get adjusted, so they end up being oversized pins and undersized holes if the surface is not perfectly vertical. --> outer before inner walls this helps, but does not seem to do enough --> adjusting line width I have 0.4mm cores, which default to 0.35 line width. lowered it a few 0.01mm increments with no success. This seems obvious to me since cura just shifts the shell thickness over and you are left with the same "over extrusion" --> Model parts with 0.010" smaller pins, and 0.015" larger holes works, but is pretty inefficient. A lot of the jigs and fixtures I print are typically meant to be machined, but we have been trying to print them in order to save some machine time. Not everything needs to be made from metal. If we know this ahead of time, I can make sure the parts are designed with extra clearance, but this is not always so easy. --> adjust flow rate This is obviously not a good solution, but I tried it and its pretty tough to dial it in and of course underextrusion results in weaker parts I want to point out (again) that I understand this is not a CNC machine milling metal and that +/-0.005" is asking a lot of a printer. however, this parts are consistently oversized, so I feel that there is some tuning or Cura setting that could be changed to compensate for this. Some part that require extra precision will be post machined with a single pass or something, not a big deal, but I dont want to do this with ever single part - kind of defeats the purpose. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to be thorough. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. 111222_dowel_fixture.stl
  8. Bonjour à tous, Je souhaite imprimer une pièce qui prend toute la surface du plateau de mon imprimante. Je souhaite l'imprimer avec du filament Colorfabb XT jaune et noir (pièce bi-matière) Mais je suis confronté à 3 problème différents lors de l'impression de cette pièce : Problème N°1 : La surface qui ce trouve en contact avec le support a plein de fils qui ne sont pas liés ensemble malgré un réglage de 0.1mm entre le haut du support et ma pièce. J'ai fais un essai en activant les plafonds des support mais aucun changement sur l’état de surface de ma pièce. (Voir IMGP4412) Problème N°2 : Je rencontre aussi un problème de liaison inter couche mais bizarrement pas pas sur toute la hauteur de la pièce... (voir IMGP4409 - La pièce a été arrêtée en cour d'impression) Problème N°3 : Il y a plein de petits bout de filament collé toute autour de la pièce, plus à l'intérieur qu'a l'extérieur, malgré l'utilisation de la tour primaire (voir IMGP4411 et 4410) Réglages de mon impression : Température de la tête : 242°C Vitesse d'impression : 50mm/s Hauteur de couche : 0.2mm Remplissage : 20% Température du plateau : 70°C Refroidissement : 30% et essai à 60% Supports : Zigzag / distance Z : 0.1mm / Densité : 30% Voila pour les explications, j'espère qu'elles sont claires... Si ce n'est pas le cas, n’hésitez pas à m'en demander plus... Je vous remercie tous par avance pour l'aide que vous m'apporterez. Belle journée à vous.
  9. Hi all, I have two questions regarding Ultimaker 3. First of all could you explain the function of the build plate heating in detail? As you can see in the picture, which plate is going to be heated? Second one: For some tests I want to build a tentering frame on the build plate. More precisely between the glas and metal plate. For this I what weight ist the maximum load for the printing bed? Especially no discrepancies in x- / y- / z-axis should occur. I couldn`t find any details in the manual. Many thanks for your support. Barbara
  10. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  11. Stefania Dinea

    Brag and show

    Hello everyone, I have been away for a while being busy with well, work. However, I never had a chance to brag and show some of my work both from work and personal portfolio. Some from the work portfolio is done by myself, some together or exclusively by interns. In case I have not been clear before, I work as an architect for Sweco Architects at the mother ship in Stockholm Sweden. One of my daily tasks for the past two years was to handle the in-house fablab. So here are some photos of the works we have left around in the office - the really cool models always end up with the client (but what is new?) A little preview from work: Personal Portfolio - I use a lot of parametric design and 3D printing to exercise and build up my own skills in my free time - and also to be able to share with the community developments, therefore not implying a client and or her/his secrecy restrictions. Prints from the community such as ultimaker ad thinginverse:
  12. Bonjour, Je souhaiterai arrêter l'impression à une hauteur précis (à partir du nombre de couche par exemple) pour insérer un objet puis ensuite continuer l'impression. L'idée est de mouler une lamelle de verre dans mon impression. Pensez vous que cela soit possible et si oui comment ? Merci d'avance
  13. Bonjour, J'imprime depuis peu sur une imprimante ultimaker 3 extended avec du PLA noir 2.85mm de la marque. Cependant, depuis quelque temps l'imprimante a un problème et mes impressions ne sont pas finies. Quand je tente de relancer l'impression, l'imprimante extrude dans le vide sur la tête 1 (aucun plastique ne sort). Par après, quand je décharge le plastique, mon filament est creusé par endroit par la roue dentée du feeder. Je suppose qu'il y a donc un blocage quelque part... Après rechargement du plastique le début se passe bien et le plastique s'extrude, cependant la marge de PLA restant indiquée au démarrage est aberrante au regard de ce qui reste sur la bobine (14m indiqué alors qu'il me reste sûrement 40m...). J'ai essayé de réaliser d'autres pièces et d'utiliser une autre bobine, sans amélioration. Enfin, la tête avait été nettoyée complètement quelques pièces avant l'apparition du problème. Du coup, je suis un peu perdu... Ci-joint une photo de la pièce finie et celle non finie une fois le problème rencontré. D'avance merci pour votre aide ! Guillaume
  14. Bonjour , ce n'est pas la première fois que j'ai ce bug. Après avoir fait une pause manuel et changé le matériaux. Une fois celui-ci installé je me retrouve dans le mauvais menu, celui de départ : -Imprimer -Matériaux/Pintcore -Système Du coup je ne peux faire repartir l'impression car je n'est plus accès a priori au fonction du menu d'impression en cours. Je sais pas si j'ai été claire !: ) Une solution ? (à part redémarrer l'um3) Merci
  15. LeviathoanOne

    Raft Settings

    I am creating a high detailed print and i want it to be printed a 0.06 layer height. Is it possible for the printer to print the raft layer at a larger layer height to save time?
  16. Hi there, I'm Matt and I have been writing about experiments in grayscale printing on the Ultimaker 3. This is a technique created by Tim Kuipers. In a nutshell, grayscale 3D printing allows you to print items in two colors, rather than monochrome. This gives an item enhanced depth, definition, and realism when compared to a monochrome print. Here's an example of what can be achieved: You can read a full article about it here. See all of Tim's designs here. At the time of writing, grayscale printing is not integrated into a stable version of Cura. However, it is possible to preview this feature. Please note: this feature is in a very early experimental stage and only intended for advanced users! 1. Download the CuraEngine backend configured to print in grayscale. 2. Compile the C++ code and run "CuraEngine" directly from the command line. Note: Currently there is no GUI. 3. Download a textured input model: Crushed can (Designed by Beerend Groot) https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/37649-grayscale-can-linear-halftoning Kuipers bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/textured-bust Blockade bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/blockade-textured Connecting rod https://www.youmagine.com/designs/connecting-rod-textured 4. Print! Please share your reactions/trials in this thread!
  17. I have two UM3E printers. The newer one has developed, or rather I should say I noticed today, that it has a wiggle in the fore and aft direction. The older one is tight. What can cause this and what can I do about it? Thanks :)
  18. Hi everyone, I have an issue with my Ultimaker 3, which I have now for about a month. From time to time when I start the printer, it gets stuck and the display shows "Ultimaker" but doesn't get any further. In such a case a restart of the machine doesn't help. I found a workaround as to open the main board housing and connect an external monitor over the HDMI port, then start the machine again and this solves the problem for some time. But after a while, sometimes directly on the next restart, the same problem occurs again. And it is really annoying to do this workaround again and again. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  19. (sorry if this is a dumb question) I was just wondering if there are some print setups where the right nozzle will have some benefits over the left. My thoughts where that maybe the extra distance from print tip to print head, could give some better airflow / better cooling or maybe less radiant heat. I know the difference is minimal. But will it be enough, to be noticeable under certain conditions.
  20. TL;DR: How do I get ABS to stop warping for this box using an Ultimaker 3 (or 2+)? or XY problem version: How do I best print this box in a way that can withstand the heat of a car? Model Photos of results Background: I made a circuit to live in my car, and I designed a box to hold it. The box stl files are here with the primary bottom shell in BShell.stl and the top in TShell.stl. After some experimentation, I got this box to print reliably with PLA. Things I found to help included printing the shells one at a time, putting a layer of glue on the glass plate, using a front cover, and pre-heating the build plate. I also got less warping with a 0.2 layer height, but preferred the smoothness of 0.1, and was able to get a good result with it. Unfortunately, with my car parked in the sun, my PLA box got soft and deformed. I set out to try ABS. On my first attempt, I used the same techniques that worked well for PLA, but the part warped very quickly after I started and delaminated completely from the glue layer. Good thing I was watching since it would have damaged the print core if it kept going. Next I tried using an adhesion sheet. This gave me a really nice first layer, but after a while, it still lifted on the back right corner and created a bit of a mess. I made one more attempt and used 0.2mm layer height, since that helped me before. This time it didn't make a big mess, but I still got some lift on the same corner which made for some strange results. From what I've read, I'm doing all the right things to help ABS to not warp, I think this box is just a challenge because of the large flat bottom surface. Are there any additional things that would help? Certain tweaks to the settings, like bed temp, that might help this case? Other materials on the plate that might keep it from lifting? I'm a bit limited in chemicals I can use since I'm in a restricted space, and new chemicals require a whole process to be approved for safety, which makes trying new things hard. Would a higher quality ABS work better? Is Ultimaker brand ABS high quality? Alternatively, is there some other technique I could use, like a different material? Perhaps CPE? It seems like it's more temperature resistant than PLA. Perhaps it would be sufficient. Is it easier to print without warping? Thanks very much for any tips.
  21. JohnK

    Ultimaker 3 Network Connection

    I have a bit of a weird problem with my UM3 connection. For starters, the printer is connected to my wifi network without any problem there, any time I check on the printer, it has an IP address. I setup a dynamic DNS and port forwarding on my router so that I can access my printer's video stream remotely using "myddnsaddress:8080/?action=stream" , that works fine, all the time without issues. However.. My connection in Cura to the printer on my wifi network keeps dropping out randomly, printer becomes unavailable and then available again (in cura), when it drops out, I can't access the printer using it's IP address at "xxx.xxx.x.x:8080/?action=stream" on my local network, BUT I can still access it through my ddns without an issue. Can anyone help ? my knowledge of networking is very limited.
  22. Ghene

    rPLA by Filamentive

    The regular rPLA filaments prints well just like the others. The cosmic filaments have small particles in it sometime causing the printcore to clog up, need a fine needle to clear it up. So beware. Prints well though and it hardened nicely. Sorry, test piece is the varse for their #cosmicchallenge. I wanted to try winning some freebies 😛
  23. Ghene


    So my UM3e decided to play up again. The print failed and became a blob around Printcore 1 again. Print core 1 stopped responding, I tried turning up the temperature to melt some of the filament but alas, it stays cold and gives me that printcore error. Managed to take Printcore 2 off by increasing the temperature until the filament that's blocking it is melted. Not so perfect timing... Christmas shopping period is here 😕 I need to replenish my stock.
  24. Hi. I'm new to Cura and the UM3 and today I wondered why I can't use the full build plate in Cura. I tried to create a 200x200x0.2 square to check the level of my bed and I can't get it to slice. Even a 190x190 square I can't fit onto the bed in Cura to get it to slice. Is there maybe a setting I'm not aware of that reduces the available bed size in Cura? Greetings Saij
  25. jon_dhemen

    ABS serious wraping

    Hi there to everyone, I know this topic might not be a new, but I am really struggling to print ABS in our UM3. I don't really manage to get a proper bed adhesion. I followed the tips and instructions you can find online in the website (https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22226-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-abs), trying different methods for adhesion: 3D printing spray, glue stick, tape, perfectly cleaned bed glas,etc. I also to tried different printing settings: using the parameters that Cura has by default (80ºC of bed temperature for ABS) and I also modifying the bed temperature up to 100ºC. The material I am using is a standard ABS from Smart materials (https://smartmaterials3d.com/es/) and oru printer has the advanced 3D printing eclosure set. I know that printing ABS can be tricky and temperature drop downs are a key feature not to get wraping, but I tried different ways being particularly careful in the temperature issue inside the printer. And the result has been always the same: pieces get loosen even if the tape (for example) on the plate is still quite sticky. Has anyone the same problem?Any clue on how can I solve this?Could it be related to the ABS material itself (and/or its conservation)? Thanks in advance!

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