Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
  • Sign Up

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'UM3'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
    • Ultimaker.com feedback
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Materials & profiles
    • Ultimaker online
    • Third party products & modifications
  • 3D print Questions
    • Improve your 3D prints
    • Design for Additive Manufacturing
    • Industries
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


3D printer


About Me


Country


Industry


On The Web

Found 773 results

  1. I am trying to implement Breakaway in an academic maker space and I am running into some issues with surface quality. To start: I am using a UM3 with Ultimaker brand PLA and Breakaway. The machine being used for the test is serviced on a monthly basis and has no other issues. Slicer settings: (Default for Cura if not stated) Layer height: .1 Infill: 40% Model Extruder: Extruder 1 (PLA) Support Extruder: Extruder 2 (Breakaway) Support Z distance: .1 Prime Tower: Enabled I came to these settings after looking through the forums on topics related to Breakaway but my search didn't lead me to anyone with my same issue. Here is an example of the surface issue: The area on the top of the print is what I am concerned about. In all the test prints I have done, this surface warping has occurred to some extent. I have tried Support Z distances between .1 and .3 with prime towers on each print and this continues to happen. Has anyone else had this issue? The rest of the print looks great and I would really love to solve this so that we could use it in our space. Thanks!
  2. Hi Everyone. I wanted to share a little python script I wrote for making time lapse videos with the onboard camera on the Ultimaker 3. Here is an example from a rather messy print I just did. Get it on GitHub. There's probably a lot of generic webcam tools for doing this already, but this one is nice because it doesn't start taking pictures until the printer begins printing, and it stops once the print is completed. The script requires Python 3 and FFmpeg. Usage $ ./timelapse.py HOST DELAY OUTFILE HOST is the IP address of your Ultimaker 3. You can find this through the menu by going to System > Network > Connection Status. DELAY is the time between snapshots in seconds. You'll probably want to figure this out based on how long your print will take and how long you want the video to be. For example, if I want a 10 second video at 30 fps, that will be 300 frames. If the print will take five hours, then 5 hours / 300 frames = 60 seconds between frames. OUTFILE is the name of the video file you want to make. It will be encoded using H.264 at 30 FPS. You can choose any container format you want, but I recommend either .mkv or .mp4.
  3. Hi, What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.
  4. Hello, Is there any way to disable the print removed confirmation message on the ultimaker 3? I never forget to remove my print but do forget to press the confirmation message sometimes, as it takes some time to appear. And the next print i send via wifi won't start after i press the message. Maybe there is a way via ssh to disable it? Or at least a way to confirm it remotely?
  5. Hy! I want to print the 3D part which can be found in the attachment. The component is designed for outdoor use therefore PLA cannot be used. Our experience is that the part exposed to solar radiation is deformed. For the printing I use original ultimaker abs filament and RS PRO PVA HT+ which is based on the manufacturer's description excellent adherence to ABS. My poblem is the ABS dont adherence to special PVA material. Print settings ABS: 245°C nozzle PVA HT+: 225 °C nozzle Bed: 100 °C cooling is always off To the bed I use UHU glue and its smoothed with wet paper. Can anyone help me with what the problem might be? Thanks! Benji lightmeter_felso_v4.2.stl rs_pro_pva_ht.pdf
  6. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  7. I am looking for the best material to print inspection fixtures for our coordinate measuring machine (CMM). The parts that we will be measuring are small and the fixtures will need to bend slightly to clamp the part and hold it. The dimensional accuracy is only relatively important but the most important is the extended lifespan of the fixture through the bending. We have a Ultimaker 3 and are open to trying any materials. Thanks! Please let me know if you have any questions about the application or requirements and I will answer them.
  8. I am at a loss here, hope someone with better knowledge than me has some advice. I am trying to print with an AA0.8 print head at 0.2 and 0.3 mm layer height to speed things up but the results (surface finish) are pretty bad. Everything is fine when I swap in an AA0.4 print head. I have tried to print with Inofill PET and Polymaker PETG with the same awful result. I have mostly used PET/PETG materials before, with good results. I have tried the factory recommended settings for both and have varied temperature, print speed, fan speed and flow rate, one at a time. Things monstly get worse, so the recommended settings are probably fine, they work for 0.4mm, so no surprise really. I have cleaned the nozzle, pull looks good. I have dried the filaments and I have tested both head positions. I can't see or hear anyting strange with the extruders. I have not used this print head much since I got it, I never got it to work well and thought I needed to spend some time on it to get it right. Well now I have spent quite a lot of time... In close up it looks to me like some kind of inconsistent extrution or as if something moves around. I have looked for something loose but can't find anything strange. What am I missing? The tube on the left is 0.4, on the right 0.8.
  9. I was having trouble printing with "extra fine" setting (default, with brim, PLA) The print would always fail from start because the brim wont stick well to bed. it wont happen often when the i print with "fine" or "normal" setting. After a lot of experiment, I discovered that the print will work just fine if i do not do active leveling and only do manual leveling instead. To a closer look, what seemed to be the problem is that after active leveling, printer will adjust and brings the nozzle too high from bed so that the brim wont stick, and this has been a problem especially when i am printing with "extra fine" since the layer was supposed to be even thinner. This also seemed to have explained that why this happens less when i print in "fine" or "normal" settings. Is it me or this a normal phenomena? I am now printing with active leveling completely disabled and the prints work okay so far, as long as I dont let the machine do active leveling.
  10. I have an UM3 for quire a while now and want to make some modifications to the firmware. After some reading on the forums I fount that the UM3 firmware is available on request, but Ultimaker is systematically ignoring my requests. So is there anyone who has gotten the UM3 firmware, or knows how to get it? I doubt that Ultimaker itself will be of any help, since they are still ignoring my emails.
  11. Hi, When I pause a print on my Ultimaker 3 manually or through the "pause at layer" function in Cura, the printhead lowers itself into my print before moving to its paused position. This leaves a crater in my prints. I'm running the latest version of Cura and have my print bed leveled. The problem also occurs when I use standard Cura settings and try to pause the print using the Ultimaker controls. Thanks for all help in advance. All the best, Robert
  12. Hi, I've an Ultimaker 3 and have been using it since it came out. The NFC spool holder never worked but it doesn't bother me much so I never try to investigate. Last week I went through the menu on my Ultimaker (for fun) and noticed that in the NFC hardware Test in the Diagnostic menu says NFC hardware not detected I disassembled the spool holder and noticed that the cable is detached, I reattached the cable and check Diagnostic again, and now it says NFC Hardware detected I was super happy and then proceed to load my material, but it is still not detecting my Ultimaker filaments. I go to the NFC reader test and this is what it says ID: 0444783acb5281 UNKNOWN ID: 04f0ad5ad26480 UNKNOWN My spool 1 is Ultimaker Silver PLA My spool 2 is Ultimaker Red PLA The materials are put with the NFC facing each other at the center. It would be nice if someone can point me in the direction to get it working.
  13. Hi Everyone, I have recently had some bad luck printing with Ultimaker PP. I use an Ultimaker 3 (with the most up to date firmware & cura) with ultimaker PP. I have done these prints many times before but recently have had no success. The prints always start off well but towards the middle to end of printing it starts to get splotchy. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, John
  14. Hello, I try to start a print job over the API of my Ultimaker 3. I read the example in this post and tried to port the code from python to nodeJS, but the POST request is just hanging. Code: var request = require("request"); var fs = require('fs'); var formData = { "file": { value: fs.createReadStream('C:\\Users\\efentzahn\\IKIMUNI_Schornstein_simple2.gcode'), options: { filename: 'IKIMUNI_Schornstein_simple2.gcode' } } }; request.post( {url: 'http://10.53.1.114/api/v1/print_job', auth: { user: '45fa38b52ea5a998c085145930356bd6', pass: '63bb0fc18a39ba7c787805e80f0be1211144f4083de634deb57f7e7819a640ec', sendImmediately: false}, formData: formData}, function(error, response, body){ if (!error && response.statusCode == 201){ console.log("Print started."); } else{ console.log('Code : ' + response.statusCode) console.log('error : ' + error) console.log('body : ' + body); } }); The auth is working. It must be a problem with the formData. Have anyone tried this with nodeJS until now?
  15. Inspired by the post Flow Sensor for UM3 I would like to know if there are any widely used add-ons for UM3 that simply pause the build when the filmament is out. I understand that its possible to restart the process and save the model when you stop the build before the filmament runs out. I also understand that the flow sensor on the S3, S5 models is not available to the UM3 and that is also is a lot more complex. It is a feed sensor (analog). I think a rather stupid digital sensor is already more than helpful. The construction could be a box with a simple microswitch with a roller that runs on the filmamant. The important thing to know is how to wire this digital I/O to the system. I did not find anything in the forum since I am probably not using the right key words. Because I am sure there are many apporaches to cover this issue. Maybe would be so kind and point out some established solutions. Or is there a wiki for stuff like that? thanks, Tiger
  16. We have a new Ultimaker 3 that has been failing far too often. What happens is that at some point extrusion stops. Sometimes the feeder grinds away at the filament so that it won't feed any further and more recently sometimes the Bowden tube pops out. We are currently on only our second spool of filament and we have had multiple failures. Most failures are on larger prints several hours in but some have been on fairly small prints. None of the failed prints involved complex or challenging to print models. Here's some observations and details: The problem occurs with PLA and CPE. Using Ultimaker filaments so definitely using correct settings in Cura. Teeth marks on the filament look similar to pictures I have seen regarding appropriate feeder tension settings. I have confirmed that the feeder adjustment indicator is in the middle where it should be. There are no obvious signs of under extrusion; the nozzle just stops extruding. After every failed print I go through the recommended nozzle cleaning procedures. The filament is not tangled (this last time when tube popped out I came back to find a big pile of filament on the table). The Bowden tube appears to be clean. Previously I thought the problem was exacerbated by a nearly empty roll, but this roll is over half full. Any help will be greatly appreciated! (I pushed for our office to get this printer based on reports of reliability and ease of use and now I feel that I'm looking like an idiot.)
  17. Bonjour à tous. Sur mon UM3, après une dizaine d'heures d'impression, les axes X et Y qui traversent la tête d'impression se déplacent, lentement mais sûrement, jusqu'à frotter sur les parois de l'imprimante voire de se déclipser dans le cas de l'axe Y. J'ai contrôlé le parallélisme, la propreté et la lubrification. Tout semble Ok. A la main la tête se déplace sans point dur. Avez-vous déjà rencontré ce problème ? Merci.
  18. Hallo, fällt euch etwas zu diesem Fehler ein? Der Druck wurde von dem UM3 nach 15 Stunden um 2cm in der x-Achse verschoben. Es ist das erst Mal, dass ich an dem 3 Monate alten Drucker eine Ungenauigkeit erlebe. Und da exakt weiter gedruckt wurde, kann sich auch nichts gelöst haben. Der in Cura neu geladene G-Code zeigt keine Fehler. Habt ihr eine Idee für den Fehler?
  19. Hello, sorry I am new to this I wonder if you could help me please. I have recently bought a 3d Solex print core (set of 4). I am using CURA on an Ultimaker 3 printer and I don't know how to change the Print core size. The drop down menu doesn't give me the choice I am after. I would like to change a core size to 0.6mm and having all the correct settings in CURA that work well with it. Your help is greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance. Fulvio
  20. Hello all, Selling my UM3, thinking about switching to other printer or an upgrade. Looking at USD$2400 obo The kit comes with, Ultimaker 3 (original spool holder and printed holder if wanted) AA core x 2 BB core x 1 Accessories (spatula, gluestick, etc) Original box with foams Also with some filaments (pictured below): Matterhackers Pro Series PLA - Gold, Translucent Red, Glow in the dark (new - 1kg) MatterHackers - PVA (new) MatterHackers - Gray (used some) Ultimaker - PVA and Tough White (both used) Local (Portland OR) sale preferred or buyer pay for shipping
  21. I'm still fairly new to this but I've started printing with Nylon for some pieces. I'm using Ultimaker Nylon (natural) using the default profile--typically at .1mm, sometimes at .15mm layers (AA 0.4 printcore). I get a lot of thick strings/nubs on the parts whether I'm printing with or without support material and whether using PVA or Breakaway support. I also notice occasionally a brown color to the nylon--often on the prime blob. I thought I might be printing too hot, though the standard template for .1mm layers uses 245C. Last night I printed a temperature tower running from 255 - 220 in 5 degree steps. 255-240 printed successfully--but with lots of the thick strings. 235 started to print but broke off midway through the layer and then it was just a cloud of filament-on-air... So definitely cannot print below 240 degrees :) The top of the anvil is where the 235 section broke off. I'm not worried about that. It's all of the thick strings throughout the tower. It's a little hard to read the temps, but they are 240, 245, 250, and 255 top-to-bottom. Also notice in the overhangs you can see some of the brown discoloration at several levels. These nubs have to be cut off which is a pain especially on some threaded parts. They also often get embedded in support material and vice versa. Breakaway tends to like making little curly cues that break off or get embedded in the part material. Do I need to play with retraction? More/less cooling? I keep my filament in a dry box except when printing (planning to make a print-from-dry-box setup) but as you can see from the brim, the filament goes down nice and clear. I saw some other posts talking about oozing between material changes, but I get the same issues whether I use a prime tower or not, and of course the temperature tower was printed by itself with no support.
  22. Hi guys i need help to understand why the CURA cant read all solidworks information I did a infill pattern - honeycombo inside a objective with 150 x 25 x 5 mm and when I pass to CURA to Print, the infill pattern that I did in Solidworks disappears in CURA what happens? and how I solved this problema? Thanks
  23. Bonsoir à tous, Je lance une impression, la buse n'est pas bouchée, tout se passe bien... Et puis à un moment donné, le tube bowden sort du feeder et le filament se déroule à l'extérieur de l'imprimante ! Avez-vous déjà rencontré ce problème ? Est-ce que le tube peut être déformé par le feeder ? Si c'est le cas puis-je en couper 1 ou 2 cm ? Merci de votre aide.
  24. Hi everyone, I have an issue with my Ultimaker 3, which I have now for about a month. From time to time when I start the printer, it gets stuck and the display shows "Ultimaker" but doesn't get any further. In such a case a restart of the machine doesn't help. I found a workaround as to open the main board housing and connect an external monitor over the HDMI port, then start the machine again and this solves the problem for some time. But after a while, sometimes directly on the next restart, the same problem occurs again. And it is really annoying to do this workaround again and again. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  25. I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
×
×
  • Create New...