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Found 588 results

  1. Copied from someone else - I didn't write 99% of what is below but I think it's very useful - especially if you are messing with json files on your UM3 and it stops booting. you'll find a recovery image here: recovery.img. You can install this update by putting this image in a micro sd card - but don't just copy the file there you have to do a special process to make it a bootable sd card. here is a nice guide on putting a disk image on a sd card: https://www.hifiberry.com/build/documentation/create-sd-card-from-img-file/ If you are working with MacOS, you can better use ApplePie baker: https://www.tweaking4all.com/software/macosx-software/macosx-apple-pi-baker/ • Insert the Micro SD card in your computer. • Use the IMG recipe section and search for the file. • Click on the Restore Backup button. • Once that is done you can put the SD card back in the printer and check if it boots correctly. Then, removing the plastic cap in front of the olimex board (it is located on the bottom of your printer), find the SD card slot and insert the SD card: The SD card slot is located on the smaller board in the back. (Where the network cable connects into) In order to reach it you will need to remove the micro USB cable in front of it Now, booting up (only once) with the sd card inserted, wait until a green light goes on on the led ring around the control knob. The display will also tell you to remove the sd card and reboot. After all this you probably want to update to the latest firmware as I'm not sure that the link above will always be the latest but the printer will know if it is the latest or not. Please message me with more details that you learn as I have never tried this with an Olimex board (I've done the same basic procedure on a Beagle Bone Black).
  2. Hallo, langsam bin ich am verzweifeln und finde keine hilfreichen Infos für folgendes Problem: Ich nutze den Ultimaker 3. Am Anfang jeden Druckes wird eine automatische Z-Kalibrierung durchgeführt, die immer fehl schlägt. Das Druckbett wird hierbei soweit hoch gefahren, dass der Printcore ziemlich weit reingedrückt wird, so dass man angst haben muss, dass etwas verbogen wird. Das war am Anfang, als der Drucker neu war, nicht der Fall, da hat das Druckbett den Printcore nur ganz leicht berührt. Eine manuelle Kalibrierung habe ich bereits durchgeführt, was aber keinen Erfolg brachte. Die Y-Kalibrierung wird ja an drei Printcore-Positionen durchgeführt. An der ersten Position scheint die Kalibrierung zu funktionieren, da wird der Druckkopf nur ganz leicht berührt, was ja auch so ein sollte. Jedoch an den anderen beiden Positionen nicht, da wird die Druckdüse ziemlich weit nach oben gedrückt. Nach der Kalibrierung gibt der Drucker eine Fehlermeldung aus, dass die beiden Printcores nicht auf der gleichen Höhe sind (irgendwie so). Druckdüsen und Glasplatte wurden bereits gereinigt. Hat jemand eine Idee was das Problem sein könnte? Ist das evtl. ein Defekt vom Drucker? Danke und Grüße Marcel
  3. hi @ All UM3 was doing a print job when there was no material left through the core1 print. I noticed and stopped this. Unfortunately, all around the printcore under the cover was Materal, see pictures. Does anyone have similar experiences? What could be the cause?
  4. The part I'm printing has two slots with the same width of 1.75mm to loose-fit a piece of PCB (see attached pic). Several prints later, I found that my U3 consistently prints the two slots with different widths, the left one at 1.56mm and right one at 1.64mm. Now I understand that holes and gaps always come out slightly undersized which I can compensate for, but what I don't understand is how two exactly the same gaps can print out differently. Why is this happening, and how can I identify when this will happen in the future? Thanks! Block.stl
  5. What is the XY movement stress test? I can't find anything by googling. What does failing it affect? How can i fix it?
  6. Hello everyone, I'm trying to print with HDGlass Blue from FormFutura, but I'm having some trouble with warping. From what I've read, HDGlass shouldn't require glue or tape and should stick to the bed nicely. I'm not sure if I should change the printing temperature or the temperature of the glass bed, I've looked online but got many conflicting information. I'll be experimenting with the temperatres, but I'd appreciate any advice or hindsight for those of you who are using or used it. I've cleaned my glass bed thoroughly, so there shouldn't be any residue on it that could cause the warping. The spool is kept in a dry box, so it's unlikely that it got moist, humidity is around 30% in the box. I'm attaching the profile I'm currently using, it's for a Hardcore 0.6, thus the layer at 0.3 and the line width at 0.55. Thanks HD Glass Hardcore 0.6.curaprofile
  7. Hi, I have an Ultimaker 3, I noticed a few release ago Cura app introduced the dialog to ask me if I want to override printer configuration. However the confirm button never worked for me for both the Cura 3 and Cura 4 beta. I still need to open Cura Connect in the browser and override config from there. I'm running the latest stable firmware on my Ultimaker 3 (4.3.3.20180529) Here's a video demo I wonder if there's anything I could do to make it work. Thank you!
  8. Hi there, At the end of last year I was granted permission to buy a new Ultimaker 3 for our school. My students designed different things and we printed them. Some things were pretty large so the printer had to print for more than a school day. One morning I found the printer crashed on the floor. The two print heads were totally covered in PLA. Although the UM3 was placed firmly on a big table it moved itself off the table. Has any else had such an experience? We also have a UM2. Moving around has never been an issue with it. Does anyone know how much the replacement of the two print cores, the two side covers and glass plate costs? And where I can get the parts. I contacted my reseller, but they couldn't or didn't want to help me.
  9. Hi guys. So I was trying to print something for my project this morning. I load a new gcode file on the thumb drive and load it into Ultimaker 3. Once it finished leveling and started to print, I noticed that it became dotted lines. I don't know how to describe it but I've attached pictures for you guys to take a look at. Did you guys ever encounter something like this before? If you have any idea on how to fix this, help a bro in need.
  10. Hi, just found another bug that I would like to share with you. Reproduction steps with Ultimaker 3 Extended connected via WIFI): - Start print via Cura over Network - While printing, pause print via Cura - Abort print via Cura - Clear build plate and select "NO" retry on printer panel - Start another print via Cura over Network Problem: The printer makes a way too big prime blob that will cover the hole nozzle in filmament (about 4 times the size of a normal prime blob). The extruder will mill into the filmament. Would be great to get a fast fix for this issue. This is the 8th bug that we have seen on our Ultimaker 3 Extended within 3 month in occasionally usage.
  11. Hi everyone, I'm new on this forum! I'm Max Jourdren, and I use 3D printer for 2 years (Zortrax, Prusa...), and now Ultimaker 3 at work. After some issues with bed leveling, I have found a new problem with the LAN connection. We can't use the Wi-Fi solution because of the architecture of our network (which needs an email address from our company), but in LAN, we are supposed to used everything we want thanks to the DHCP server, which send an IP address to every machine connected with a cable in LAN. The traditional printer works well with our network. BUT, our ultimaker 3 doesn't take an IP address from DHCP, and I don't understand why. The network LAN works well with any machine, printer, or computer I've tried, but only the UM3 don't. I need to monitor the UM3 from an other desk, and it is far away from the printer. I have tried to find some solution in all the forum, but... I don't really find something for my issue. In a lot of case, people take an IP address or want to have a fix address, and those aren't what I look for. If someone have idea or something that can help me, it will be a pleasure !
  12. Selling my UM 3 in Sweden for 28 000 kr (postage not included ++ shipment included if you live in Stockholm area) - I had the printer for more than a year and kept it in good condition (due to the fact that I barely have time to be at home and play with it). PM for more info - blocket add will come soon. Thanks 😉
  13. Hi everyone, First time on Ultimaker forum, hope you'll be able to help ! I've been using for a couple of years a Utilmaker 3 printer with PLA in Extruder 1 and PVA in Extruder 2. Now that Cura offers multiple parameters in support mode, I've been optimising the support interface in order to only use PVA for "Support Interface", the main support being made of PLA. The problem I often come across is that the "Support Interface" in PVA doesn't stick to the pattern PLA support built under it. I tried different support options but nothing really solved the issue. The only parameter helping was increasing the (PLA) support density making a more solid base for the PVA but printing time is highly impacted. I think that maybe adding an intermediary PLA support interface full surface under the PVA support interface would help the PVA to stick to the PLA support. But I'm unsure this configuration exists. Has anyone find a way of composing support this way ? Thanks for your help !
  14. Purchased new in August 2018. Printer still in nearly new condition. Only printed a dozen parts. There is still some filament left from the original demo rolls which will be included with the UM3. Total hot time on the print heads ~3 days (BB 0.4mm head) and ~6 days (AA 0.4mm head). Also comes with one brand new (never used) AA 0.4mm print head and PolyMaker dry box. Local pickup preferred. Comes with original box & packaging. Selling as I am going back to school and no longer need the machine. Asking $2800 CAD.
  15. I am trying to implement Breakaway in an academic maker space and I am running into some issues with surface quality. To start: I am using a UM3 with Ultimaker brand PLA and Breakaway. The machine being used for the test is serviced on a monthly basis and has no other issues. Slicer settings: (Default for Cura if not stated) Layer height: .1 Infill: 40% Model Extruder: Extruder 1 (PLA) Support Extruder: Extruder 2 (Breakaway) Support Z distance: .1 Prime Tower: Enabled I came to these settings after looking through the forums on topics related to Breakaway but my search didn't lead me to anyone with my same issue. Here is an example of the surface issue: The area on the top of the print is what I am concerned about. In all the test prints I have done, this surface warping has occurred to some extent. I have tried Support Z distances between .1 and .3 with prime towers on each print and this continues to happen. Has anyone else had this issue? The rest of the print looks great and I would really love to solve this so that we could use it in our space. Thanks!
  16. Hi For some reason every time i switch on the printer i get this message, even though my last printing was ok, i removed the printing, confirmed and switched the printer off. It gives this message even if i switch the printer on, off and on again Do you
  17. Hi guys.I have a question and need some help. I printed a model last Friday and when I come back to check this morning, it had ran out of filament. I'm fairly new to this so what should I do? Is it possible to resume the print? I used Ultimaker 3. Thanks!
  18. Hello, I try to start a print job over the API of my Ultimaker 3. I read the example in this post and tried to port the code from python to nodeJS, but the POST request is just hanging. Code: var request = require("request"); var fs = require('fs'); var formData = { "file": { value: fs.createReadStream('C:\\Users\\efentzahn\\IKIMUNI_Schornstein_simple2.gcode'), options: { filename: 'IKIMUNI_Schornstein_simple2.gcode' } } }; request.post( {url: 'http://10.53.1.114/api/v1/print_job', auth: { user: '45fa38b52ea5a998c085145930356bd6', pass: '63bb0fc18a39ba7c787805e80f0be1211144f4083de634deb57f7e7819a640ec', sendImmediately: false}, formData: formData}, function(error, response, body){ if (!error && response.statusCode == 201){ console.log("Print started."); } else{ console.log('Code : ' + response.statusCode) console.log('error : ' + error) console.log('body : ' + body); } }); The auth is working. It must be a problem with the formData. Have anyone tried this with nodeJS until now?
  19. Bonjour à tous, Après plusieurs essais avec du pua, je me lance dans une impression pour un efoil avec du pla Tough et du breakaway. J'ai fait un essai sur une piece test avant d'imprimer une piece qui nécessite environ 25 heures. Sur la couche d'adhérence et après, le Pla Tough et le breakaway continue de "couler" lors du déplacement vers un autre depart d'impression sur la meme couche. Paramètre Matériau : activer la rétractation est coché / Distance : 6,5 / Vitesse : 25 Je suis perdu dans les paramètres à corriger. Merci de votre aide.
  20. Hello Everyone:) My NYLON and PVA are showing signs of moisture absorption (crackling sound when printing and bubbles) My current room humidity measures 45- 50% One thing still not clear is what is the Humidity % required to print PVA and Nylon (hygroscopic materials) without absorbing humidity ? On ultimaker website it seems to be written upto 50% is okay. but polymaker seems to say less than 15% humidity is required to print. I store both my materials in airtight box with lots of silica. I have attached photos of the same. http://www.3dtechsupplies.com.au/News/polybox-in-action-how-does-polymakers-dry-printing-and-storage-solution-perform https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52602-material-handling-and-storage What is the best option to print with my current humidity % (45-50%): ? Option1: Bake Nylon and PVA on the ultimaker 3 heatbed at 55 deg for few hours before hand when printing. and later keep it in the airtight box with silica. Option2: Make a carboard box with a lots of silica in it and put it on the ultimaker spools and stick it leaving 2 holes for material to feed into the feeder. ( I have made this for time being for some urgent prints. Option3: cover the whole printer with a huge box so that minimum air goes inside and put lot of silica inside. Option 4: Buy Poly box (drybox) for Nylon and PVA, But it will disable NFC feature and create other extrusion problems because of travel from poly box to feeder.( i read in posts) Please suggest best solution to this problem.
  21. Good morning everyone! I work/teach with a UM3 at my job, and an assignment I've worked on in the past are hanko: Japanese stamps. (these are for a Japanese culture class) We've used TPU as the business end of the stamp (combined with a PLA body), but to be "culturally accurate" the heads of these stamps are pretty narrow in diameter, and the TPU gets pretty oozy -- losing a lot of details the students really wanted to keep. You can see in the attached image, the center stamp works well, but the one on the right is suffering. My question is: can anyone suggest a good material for a stamp face? PLA and harder plastics don't handle the ink well.
  22. 3dcase

    UM3 nozzle's

    Hallo Hallo, Iemand enig idee of en waar er al losse nozzle's te vinden zijn? Niet de losse kop dus maar enkel het tapse puntje met schroefdraad? Groetjes Kees
  23. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  24. I have just run a huge 24h print om my Ultimaker 3. Sadly it failed at late point in the middle of the night, filament got stuck and ground in the extruder, with the printer continuing printing in mid-air. On my previous, simpler printers, I have been able to fool it to resume by editing G-code to start at a meased height. The UM3, however, is so full of bells and whistles, like the auto-leveling etc, and I cannot come up with a smooth way of doing this. The print head will crash into the huge print on the bed, and its all together a complicated task. Any ideas how this could be done? Perhaps a future feature idea here, to create such a function in Cura.. skipping the calibration, just homing in and continuing the print.
  25. Is this a bug? This is layer 343 in a print. You can see the start of a support line suspended in mid air. Here it is at layer 346. It's starting to grow towards the other support but it's still in the middle of the air It finally joins the other support structure at layer 367. Clearly this doesn't print. You get 24 layers of spaghetti then it *might* adhere to the remaining support and recover enough strength to actually support the remaining print. For background, this is the model I am trying to print. Obviously a good support structure is critical. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2255905
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