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Found 720 results

  1. Not sure whether this is a printer problem or a Cura problem. I have an Ultimaker 3 and am using Cura 4.4.0 as the slicer. The filament I'm using is Ultimaker Sliver PLA (the one that came with the printer). My main settings are:- layer height : 0.2mm Nozzle temp : 195 C Bed temp : 65 C Initial layer Width : 120% Initial layer speed : 18mm/s Fan : Off (first layer) I'm getting what appears to be the nozzle dragging the filament as it comes out of the nozzle but just in a couple of areas (see image). I've raised both the bed temp and nozzle temp slightly (5 deg C) above normal because I was having a problem with some of the initial wall lines not sticking to the bed (as it happens, in the area of the blemishes). The second layer was laid over the blemishes without a problem but on the third layer or so there was a bit of lifting of the print off the bed although it did not look like warping (for a start it was not lifting at any of the corners). What is happening and what do I need to do to fix it? TIA
  2. Hi guys, I started a job at a university and we have a ultimaker 3. We are trying to print this piece for our project but it kept failing. I have attached some images below. First the print turned into a spaghetti ball while using dual extrusion with pva support. Because it's kind of urgent so we thought it might be easier to print with a single extruder. However, it didn't work either, the print start becoming stringy. And we need this piece for project next week. Please help!! fail project 1.3mf
  3. Hello Ultimaker fans, I have 2 ultimakers a S3 and a S5. I like how they print so far and that is not the problem, but I do have some other problems. The S3 displays time like this: ''4m : 28m'' instead of ''4h : 28m''. Its a little confusing, how do I change this? (I tried installing a older/les stabble version but that didn't work) The other problem is that the camera of S5 is black. I can open it but it doesn't display anything. Ty, JesseP
  4. Selling my two Ultimaker 3 machines. Great machines but I am moving on to SLA printing. Have not used them in over a year but I have tested them and they are still operational. May need to be lubricated. Prefer a local buyer in Los Angeles area that can pickup locally but can ship (Buyer pays shipping costs). I have the original box for one of them. Asking for $4200 + Shipping. Will only ship within the continental 48 states. Thank you Ultimaker 3 #1 - GeckoTek Solid magnetic bed mount with removable metal sheet -BondTech Dual Drive Extruder installed - .4 AA Nozzle lightly used - .25 AA Nozzle (used once) - .4 AA and .4 BB (Installed) used - Printed Solid Top and door enclosure kit Ultimaker 3 #2 - BondTech Dual Drive Extruder kit (Not installed) - (Two) .4 AA Nozzle (New) - .4 AA Nozzle and .4 BB Nozzle (Installed) used - Printed Solid Top and door enclosure kit BONUS - Alot of new/used filament including a 5kg White PLA Spool from Matterhackers. Other spools from Matterhackers, Atomic Filament and Ultimaker
  5. Does anyone knows if it´s possible to create own nfc tags for the UM3? The tags from the UM spools can be read from my Samsung S7, but the data format is unknown.
  6. Version 1.0.0

    11 downloads

    This toy car is easy to 3D-print and quick to build. It is the first project demonstrating the new and fully 3D-printable educational construction set toy; you can download from stemfie.org. This project exhibits the retention and controlled release of energy to achieve motion. The inspiration for this design is borrowed from science classes in schools, using the mousetrap challenge. Assembly video: https://youtu.be/LDidml1T6aM Instructions: https://stemfie.org/sps-000001 Stay tuned for news about future releases of new projects and construction set parts.
  7. I have a model which is a 3mm thick square with raised letters above it. The idea was to print it using dual extrusion, so I made it two models, assigned each to an extruder, and grouped them. But when I look at the preview, it's burning a whole lot of time creating skins at the interface. How can I stop it doing this? (Pardon the colors, I gave up fighting cura on choosing what color non-ultimaker filaments are)
  8. Hey, We have just upgraded our Ultimaker 3 to 5.2.11 Firmware and we are using Cura 4.1. When we try to connect to the Cloud through Cura connect it stays on the 'trying to connect' screen for ages and does nothing else until we cancel (I have waited for over 30 mins). We have a port ope so we can view the camera stream from offsite over a VPN and so was wondering if anyone else has had issues or know of any reason why this or our Firewall could cause a problem. I'm happy to provide further details if you want or need them. Thanks Adam
  9. I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
  10. Hi Guys & Gals. I have encountered an interesting "Phenomena" where Cura (4.4.1) almost intentionally leaves certain overhangs unsupported when printing the support material with core 2 (PVA). Printing with an UM3, AA 0.4 and BB 0.4 cores, PLA and PVA. I have played around extensively with the parameters and settings and haven't found any solution yet. For the attached illustrations- I have set everything to default/standard: Model: Here is the model and the specific area of interest for me with the standard settings visible. Slice Preview: Here the preview SEEMS fine with more than enough PVA support all-round (Yes, I can set the XY ofsets ect to print less PVA blah blah but that's not the point of interest here) Problem: Here you can see that it leaves a big chunk of support out where it really SHOULD be putting support...? (Note here that I kind off despise the "Gradual infill steps" setting but understand how it can be beneficial but i mostly set it to 0). I mostly hope that it is me missing something extremely obvious, but it gets interesting; When I SWAP the extruders.... It supports it correctly. Swapping printing Extruders: Note that I only instructed cura to use extruder 2 for the model and extruder 1 for the support: I have tried multiple permutations of settings to try and get the PVA in the same manner as the PLA (eg making gradual infill steps 0, grid as support structure, density same as infill density ect ect ect but I am always left with this mysterious gap when trying to support that overhang with PVA.. Even tried putting the PVA BB core in Slot 1, and PLA AA to Slot 2 but the slice will still result in the unforgiving black-hole of "NO-SUPPORTNESNES" So for now I'm left with a dead light-bulb floating over my head until I can figure it out. Anybody maybe know what the obvious solution is that I am missing?? Okay love you guys, Cheers!
  11. Hi, Is it possible to set a password to protect accessing the printers over the network? We've just recently connected ours to the network to allow remote monitoring, but I don't want anybody on site being able to connect and potentially print/watch prints. Thanks,
  12. I'm struggling for a while to make my ultimakers S5/3 print better with a consistent skin quality with cura. I found changing the jerk and accelerate settings helped me a lot here together with some other small tweaks like lower themps and 25mm/s print speed (i printed around +-50 xyz test cubes to see what is happening with cura settings). But for some reason i get artifacts in the skin on places that i cannot explain (On the picture i pointed out what i mean with these artifacts). Its not always on a position were are bottom or top layer would start for example. The thing i'm looking for is a really high skin quality that is consistent i don't care about print time, consistent good quality is everything to me. I hope some one can advice me what to do to get a better consistent surface quality with cura.
  13. I noticed my Ultimaker 3 making some squeaking noises and saw that one of the belts is grinding against the side. I've tried reseating the belt, but it just moves back into position grinding against the side. There is also rubber dust around the area. What can I do to fix this problem? Video of the problem is here, notice how the belt tilts from side to side: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1TaaKxnoPsj6U6_DtYu8TmP99toA2VJoa
  14. Version 1.0.0

    2 downloads

    LotusLight printed in PETG Transparant. Speed 20mm/s, 0,15mm layer hight
  15. I bought a second hand ultimaker 3 extended and noticed it has some ringing or inconsistencies in the y axis. The wall along the x axis looks smooth, but the wall along the y axis looks really rough. Shiny black exaggerates the imperfections, but you can also feel the roughness with your finger and it is visible in other colors. The walls are printed with the default cura profile with a 0.4mm nozzle and 80mm/s speed (30mm/s outer wall speed). Printing slower makes it less pronounced, but even if i print at 20mm/s outer wall speed the y axis looks still worse than the x axis. On my old printer, a wanhao 4x, the outer walls look and feel about as good as the x axis of the ultimaker. Both x and y axis look about the same. It is printed at the same outer wall speed. I suspected it might be a bad Y axis bearing. So i replaced it, and also replaced the rod, just to be sure. Unfortunately nothing changed and the prints looks just as bad as before on the y axis. The ringing or inconsistencies are also clearly visible in this benchy (a part is painted gray). Benchy with rough walls on the y axis, printed in the defualt 0.15mm profile I then printed a bearing from pla, which probably won't last very long. But it did improve the quality of the y axis. It is a lot smoother. Not a great long term solution. Pla bearing and y axis wall with pla bearing Is there something else wrong with my printer or do all ultimaker 3's print this bad on the y axis? Does anyone else has this problem? I attached the test file i used in case anyone wants to test it on their ultimaker 3 (extended). The filament I used is ice pla black but the problem also happens with other filaments. vertical artifacts2.3mf
  16. Hello, Is there any way to disable the print removed confirmation message on the ultimaker 3? I never forget to remove my print but do forget to press the confirmation message sometimes, as it takes some time to appear. And the next print i send via wifi won't start after i press the message. Maybe there is a way via ssh to disable it? Or at least a way to confirm it remotely?
  17. Hi guys, I have an issue with the UM3 Ext, as the surface of the overhangs with support structure is really bad. Cura and the printer should have latest firmwares. Can you tell me how I can solve this problem? I attached a picture of a test part. Many thanks in advance.
  18. Im trying to print an STL from SW the size is 209mm on 118 mm h:26mm Using Ultimaker 3, and I cant get it to fit :/ Printer size should be 215*215mm **i need it in this size and in one part!!! Any ideas? Thank you!! Maya
  19. Hello all, Selling my UM3, thinking about switching to other printer or an upgrade. Looking at USD$2400 obo The kit comes with, Ultimaker 3 (original spool holder and printed holder if wanted) AA core x 2 BB core x 1 Accessories (spatula, gluestick, etc) Original box with foams Also with some filaments (pictured below): Matterhackers Pro Series PLA - Gold, Translucent Red, Glow in the dark (new - 1kg) MatterHackers - PVA (new) MatterHackers - Gray (used some) Ultimaker - PVA and Tough White (both used) reason for selling - moving out the state. If can sell it, it would be great. Local (Los Angeles) sale preferred or buyer pay for shipping
  20. Hello, I'm working with a UM3 and trying to print with two colors of PLA. This works, but I keep getting strings. I watched the video to solve this, experimented with the retraction settings, z-hop, print speed, temperatures etc. I looked in this forum. But it simply doesn't get better. One thing I notice is that it seems head 1 doesn't retract at all. I don't hear it pulling back the filament. When it switches to the second head, it always retracts correctly, doesn't have any strings. But to be fair, the first 95% is done by head 1, so it continually moves over already printed material. Load/unload works fine on head 1. So my guess is it's not broken, but not sure. Anybody an idea what else I can try or check? Any help is appreciated Note: STL's are from Solidworks 2020. Note: The attached photo is taken with the Cura default settings.
  21. Hallo zusammen! Kann mich erinnern, dass beim Release vom UM3 die ersten Modelle noch mit gedruckten Spulenhaltern ausgeliefert wurden. Hat jemand diesen Halter als STL oder STEP Datei? Würde ihn gerne für den S5 anpassen damit auch 8cm breite Rollen verwendet werden können. Habe zwar schon eine Eigenkreation gefunden, jedoch ist der Arm für die Spule 1 nicht zu gebrauchen. Vorab vielen Dank!
  22. I've been having an issue that I'm not sure what is causing it. When I start a dual extrusion print extruder 2 (whether it's printing PLA or PVA) will drag filament from the prime blob across the print bed to where it starts the print and then there is also some stringing from that extruder during the print. extruder 1 has no troubles with either of that. Extruder 1 had generic PLA and extruder 2 had Ultimaker PLA. I have retractions enabled as you can see in the pictures. any ideas. I'm pretty new to Ultimaker and Cura. Thanks for your help Ken
  23. Dear Users, the auto-leveling of our UM3 printer is not working at all: When starting a print job the auto-leveling starts but the nozzles do not approach close to the bed. The auto-leveling stops and this error-message appears: -Active levelling could not be performed. Please check the nozzles and bed and try again- We already checked the printcores with nozzles and cleaned the bed with water. We tried manual leveling but without success. We also followed the instructions of troubleshooting in the manual but we cant find the problem why auto-leveling is not working. We have attached the last log file. Best Regards logfile_20200109.log
  24. When I enable the prime tower in 4.4.1 it is shrinking the build volume by several mms around the entire perimeter of the build plate (grey shadow). I don't see where I can adjust this setting to stop this from happening or why this would be necessary given the placement of of the tower I set. If the perimeter on the right is good, why does Cura shrink the build area in front, back, and left? Using ooze shield with 2mm separation still works just fine on this project. Any suggestions would be welcomed. I built the part to fit to maximize the plate and I may be able to rotate this project slightly, but this doesn't seem to make any sense.
  25. Why oh why does it still take 2x longer to print the same part on the UM3 than the UM2? the material is exactly the same PLA, the machines sit on the same desk so environment is exactly the same, the print profile is exactly the same, yet a print using 2g can take literally 2x the print time! 31 mins vs 15!!
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