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Found 508 results

  1. I've been having an issue with cura connects monitor mode for as long as I can remember, where the status of one of the printers with change every other second, and the other will never show that its available, even when it is. In the screenshots I have attached below, both the printers shown are not printing. This has been an issue that has persisted through multiple updates. I am currently running 3.5.0.
  2. fntsmn

    Skulpt Thibra3D

    This year I worked for different months to create and improve Skulpt from Thibra3D, was a lot of fun and I think is something different on the market. I will share with all of you my experience and suggestion to be able to have a great print with it. In few words Skulpt how is name suggest is a filament that you can 3D print and apply small or big changes at the printed model just heating up the surface and using tools that are commonly used for sculpting or even only a screwdriver. This was one of my first test with the material a pumpkin, unfortunatly the print didn't went that well but is skulpt so was easy to fix it (the material was still in a experimental stage) I could made a better job with fixing the shape but I was still impressed on what could be done with the material. My second test was printing something low poly and sculpt it to become high poly with a lot of details. I decided to download and print this low poly fox I started to be really impressed on what I was able to do with this filaments and understand a bit better what you can do and what is better avoid with it. Example with the Fox the supports work out really well and they come out really easily and you can smooth the surface super easily, you will never be able to see any imperfection on the surface that usually supports materials leave, one small disadvantage is that is tricky to print for small details, because the material like to keep the heat, but at the same time this details are super easy to fix after the print is done. Now that I was more confident with my settings and skills I decide to print Groot Bust Another fantastic print! Support material was great I increased the detail, smoothed the surface and then Painted without any need of sanding the surface,you will never see the layers of printing and when the model cool down it become really solid and doesn't not feel like a 3d printed object. At this point the material was really stable and working perfectly so we proceed on play more with the color and just finalize the material to make it ready for the market so I decide to make a big and long print on my Ultimaker 3. I decided to print my head, the print took around 70 hours to finish and I used the following settings: Extrusion Multiplier: 1.21 Retraction Distance: 0 mm Layer Height: 0.2 Top Layers: 15 Bottom Layers: 5 Outline: 7 Infill: 50% Internal Fill Pattern: Grid Brim: 35 Outlines Extruder Temp.: 205 Heated bed: 60° only for the first layer then 45° Fan Speed: 100% Speed: 50 mm/s The spools that I used for this print wasn't the final product but we was still playing with the color this is why you can see some inconsistency. After I removed all the supports I started to increase and add all the hairs details. To add details is pretty easy you can use 3 main way: - Hairdryer : Take a bit of time to make the material soft but you avoid to over heat it and maybe cause some small bubbles on the surface - Heat gun: Take few second and you will be able to sculpt the material but be careful to don't over heat the surface too much - Hot water: this method is great but make it more difficult to localize the heat in only one part of the model and can take a good amount of time before you can sculpt the model. I personally really liked work on this project at work! You can check too this short video that I made to give more information about this filament. I'm happy to reply to any question about this Filaments! I will try to be active on this post.
  3. Hello everyone, I need to print 10 small parts on the same build plate and before I start printing them I would like to know if any of you has any tips to give me especially about the setting for the Z hopping. I am using an Ultimaker 3 printer Material is the Ultimaker PC in white The picture of the product is attached. I am looking forward to hearing from you guys :) Thank you in advance. Fulvio
  4. winkie03

    Ultimaker 3 wont boot

    When I go to turn on my ultimaker 3, the fans will whirl but that's all it will do. The logo wont appear and no lights turn on. Any ideas on how to fix it?
  5. jon_dhemen

    ABS serious wraping

    Hi there to everyone, I know this topic might not be a new, but I am really struggling to print ABS in our UM3. I don't really manage to get a proper bed adhesion. I followed the tips and instructions you can find online in the website (https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22226-how-to-print-with-ultimaker-abs), trying different methods for adhesion: 3D printing spray, glue stick, tape, perfectly cleaned bed glas,etc. I also to tried different printing settings: using the parameters that Cura has by default (80ºC of bed temperature for ABS) and I also modifying the bed temperature up to 100ºC. The material I am using is a standard ABS from Smart materials (https://smartmaterials3d.com/es/) and oru printer has the advanced 3D printing eclosure set. I know that printing ABS can be tricky and temperature drop downs are a key feature not to get wraping, but I tried different ways being particularly careful in the temperature issue inside the printer. And the result has been always the same: pieces get loosen even if the tape (for example) on the plate is still quite sticky. Has anyone the same problem?Any clue on how can I solve this?Could it be related to the ABS material itself (and/or its conservation)? Thanks in advance!
  6. DaMac

    PVA burnt and raised spots

    hi guys, my pva seems to be laying out okay most of the time but I seem to be getting these burnt raised spots in it. see the picture attached. I have given all the print heads a good clean already with the cleaning filament, does anyone have any suggestions please? Thanks in advance!
  7. Smithy

    Bondtech for UM3

    If I would plan to upgrade the feeders of my UM3, which one should I use? There are 2 Bondtech upgrade kits for the UM3 available, the DDG and the QR kit with the stepper motors. Which kit makes more sense? Are the stepper motors much different than the stick UM motors? Does it make sense to change it? Or is the DDG enough to "upgrade" the UM3. I also have to say, I have currently no problems with the UM3 feeders, but just looking what could make sense to upgrade. Thanks!
  8. Hi all together, is there a manual available how to change x and/or y axis (for changing belts and pulleys) at a UM3/E? Nothing found so far. Thanks for your help, best regars, ich
  9. magura

    Transportschlauch gekürzt

    Guten Morgen, habe eine Frage zu den Transportschläuchen (Bowden-Röhren): Wenn man einen Schlauch kürzt, zwecks Beschädigung, kann man die Vorschublänge für das Material irgendwo anpassen? Gruß
  10. Hallo UM-community, at our university we are currently using the UM3. Somehow some students managed to clog the BB 0.4 nozzle quite heavily. With some effort I managed to unclog the nozzle, but for some time, we were unable to use the printer. To reduce these off-times, I wanted to buy some nozzles, so we just need to change them in case of urgent need. But this is somehow a bigger problem than I imagined, because it is not possible to buy nozzles from UM for the UM3. The only way is to buy a whole new print-core for over 110,- €. The offered nozzles for the UM2 are not compatible with the UM3. Does anybody by chance have a source for UM3-(BB 0.4)-nozzles? Thanks a lot in advance.
  11. Hello To my undestanding the Ultimaker is open source so i hope it is ok i ask this. I am trying to figure out how the interface to the print cores is done. I need to figure this out since i need to test a crazy idea i have. This idea includes having to control the temperature of the hotend. I have bought a spare BB 0.4 mm print core i need to control from a arduino or raspberry pi. I found the schematics for the print head here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/PCB files I am not sure but if i am correct the answer is hidden somewhere here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2118-G Cartridge PCB/Project Outputs for Cartridge PCB/Schematic Prints.PDF and here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2012-K Print head PCB/Schematic and layout pdf/Schematic Prints_printhead_2012-K_01.PDF From the latter it looks like it is a standard i2c interface. I am looking at the top right corner where it says hotend 2. From the first - which i assume is the diagram for the print core - i guess the TP1 to TP4 correstponds to the P1 to P4 below in the diagram. 1) is the connection to the temperature sensor i assume 2) is a connection to ground 3) is the positive connection to the heat sensor and the positive connection to the heater 4) is the ??? This doesn't make sence. Is there two heaters or ??? is it possible to have the sda and scl on the same wire (3)? Can you help me?
  12. GigaWaTT

    UM3 vs S5

    After owning a printer and much research, I have decided to buy my way into the Ultimaker family. Now I need to decide whether to get the UM3 or the S5. On the surface the UM3 is an easy choice for me. The resolutions and tech seem very similar in both and I am not really seduced by the touch screen or large print volume of the S5, although they are impressive. The only reason I even consider the S5 is the filament flow sensor and the overhauled print bed leveling. Which are both things to heavily consider! Running out of filament sucks and can be a huge waste! I have also spent hours/weekends toying with settings and leveling print beds. I really just want something reliable. I know the S5 is supposedly more reliable, but how much so? $2.5k more? Any help or suggestions is greatly appreciated. The object in the image below was modeled by myself and printed with my makerbot. This also represents the things I enjoy to make/create.
  13. Gio26

    UM3 print head

    Where can I find some documentation on how to disassembly UM3 print head? I need to check if my sound come from it. Thanks for you help. Sound.zip
  14. I have seen this problem more less on my previous objects, but didn't gave them too much attention. Last week I found a play at one of the axles and did the whole process of loosen all pulleys, squared the axles during the retightening of the pulleys and printed a cube afterwards. Everything seemed fine. But the test object (cube) was not the best test for this specific problem below. Yesterday I printed a simple model and found again a very strange "misalignment" of the layer, after the print direction (clockwise, counter-clockwise) is changing. So I understand why this happens, because of the change in the direction, something will be misaligned a little bit (backlash) but I have no more idea how to fix it. The printer (UM3) is 2 months old, I checked the tension of the long belts, seems ok for me, all 4 belt have the same tension. I opened all pulleys, and squared the axles with the tool found on YouMagine. I loosened the stepper motors and retightened them. Both short belts have the same tension. I checked if there is some friction when moving the head around and lubricated the axles a little bit. I also checked if I can move the nozzle when touching it, to see if there is a play or some problem, but nothing. I have this issue on other models, with a hole in it for example as well. (there is currently also another thread with someone else with the same problem, but I don't want to hijack his thread) So every time, when there is something in the model, a hole, a step, or whatever, and the print direction is changing to another direction, I get these results. Here are two pictures of the model and I marked the problems. There are other things as well on this model and due the zoom of the picture it looks more worse than it is actually. This is printed with Cura defaults "Fast" 0.2 layer height, speed 70mm/sec: This is printed with Cura default "Normal" 0.15 layer height, speed 40mm/sec: So reducing speed helps a little bit, but not too much. Is there anything else I can do on the hardware side? I did, to be on the safe side, the whole process again with the pulleys and the axles, but I could not check the result yet. Printing slower and same speed for all speed values, will help, I am sure, but to get rid completely I assume I have print with 20mm/sec or less. Do you have any other advise for this problem. Thanks!
  15. DavidGJ

    PROBLEMAS CON EXTRUSOR 2

    Buenas, tengo una Ultimaker 3. No hace mucho que he imrimido con el doble extrusor sin problemas, pero he actualizado la versión de cura un par de veces (ahora tengo la versión 3.5 instalada y también la 3.4.1) y cuando intento imprimir algo donde intervenga el extrusor 2 (de forma conjunta con el 1 o bien de forma individual), la impresora no imprime. El error que me muestra es que se ha excedido el volumen de impresión. Si esa misma pieza la imrimo con el extrusor 1 no tengo ningún problema. Alguié podría echarme una mano y darme alguna pista sobre lo que puede estar pasando. Me urge. Gracias.
  16. Hi all, I am looking to purchase a used Ultimaker 3 or 3 Extended located in the U.S. Preferably in Los Angeles or California, but I'll take what I can get. Only request is that machine works well and has no issues. I'm an artist and creative director and its time to finally invest in my own machine. If anyone has one for sale in the U.S. please let me know. Cheers, Jonathan www.polygonfuture.com mail@polygonfuture.com
  17. Hello, first of all I'm sorry for my terrible English. I'm just arrived in the ultimaker world, my um3 have one week and I am excited about the print quality, a little less than other things. The first day I did the calibrations and then printed many cubes of various sizes and other shapes to check the measurements in the 3 axes. I used only Ultimaker filaments (pla, abs) and printcore 0.4 or 0.25., Cura as slicer with default settings. I only lowered the speeds bringing the maximum to 50mm/s and the walls to 20-30mm/s. In all the tests I did, I always have the Y axis a bit more then X axis about 0.1 / 0.16 mm. In this phase I would like to calibrate the various axes with similar tolerances without worrying too much about the exact measurements. The exact measurements I would do later, depending on the materials using the slicer with "horizontal expansion" or by scaling the model. All impossible things to do if you do not have the same tolerances on the 3 axes. I have already read all your various measures concerning the measurements and I checked the tension of the belts, the fluency of the print head and the lubrication of the axles. Everything seems good. I would like to avoid changing the steps and however I did not understand if I should modify the um3.json file or the file 9066.json. I can not find documentation on this but if I understand correctly the um3.json file should remain as it comes with the firmware and all changes must do on the file 9066.json. But I'm not sure. Finally, no recovery system is provided !!! (strange decision!) I exclude to change the original cad file, I use the printer for prototyping parts that will then be produced with traditional methods, so it would be risky to produce parts with incorrect measurements. Thank you for the help you can give me. Giovanni
  18. I am looking to sell my um 3 with a lot of accessories for £2500 a fully insulated enclosure with filter and extractor lots of unused filliment an enclosed retail fimmient holder to reduce moisture. Spare parts spare build plate and a closable cupboard with vents that can be wall mounted if you wish.
  19. I am attempting to print a translucent part using Ultimaker Transparent PLA. However, due to the way Cura alternates infill direction my parts are coming out more opaque than they should. How do I stop Cura from alternating infill direction and instead have the infill the exact same on every layer? It's not a structural part so all I care about is it letting a good amount of light through. For context: Normally I would achieve this by printing the part on its side so that the natural print layers will achieve this but I can't do that for this particular part. Details: Cura 3.5, Ultimaker 3, Ultimaker Transparent PLA
  20. Hi, I´m searching for a possibility for my UM3 to start a print automatically after power up. I found a solution for the UM2 here: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/9206-feature-request-timer-to-delay-printing/ As described I generate a “auto0.g” file with RepRap G-code flavor from the model I want to print. Unfortunately after the power up the UM3 says “print aborted … ” so its not working. Does any one have a solution that works from the USB in the UM3? Best regards
  21. Gio26

    UM3 print problem

    Yesterday evening I turned off the printer after printing without a problem a "cube!" 🙂 Today I launched a print, always for the check my axes, but more bigger (100x100x50). I use active leveling set to automatic. The printer first checked the leveling and then the printing started. Extruded the usual small amount of filament in the left front and then started to make the brim. It makes a strange sound, I hope you can hear in the attached file, and does not extrude. it made only a small portion in the back. I stopped the print, extruded the filament with the manual function, the printcore extruded well and relaunched the print. Same result. Is not my day! 😉 Thanks. Print sound.zip
  22. teleporteur

    Calibration hauteur plateau UM3

    Je reviens sur la question de réglage de la hauteur du plateau. Comme j'ai changé le plateau en verre contre un plateau avec aimant du système https://www.geckotek.co/product-category/build-plates/ la hauteur n'est plus la même et la calibration ne fonctionne plus, ce qui est étonnant puisque bien avant quel tête touche le plateau celui-ci monte très très lentement... il devrait pouvoir détecter la tête qui est repoussée en arrière ? Autre question, est-il possible de régler la hauteur de la première couche d'impression dans l'UM3 sans relancer toute la procédure de calibration manuel ? Il arrive des fois qu'il y a une mini erreur de réglage... Est.il possible aussi de changer le réglage de l'épaisseur du plateau afin que la calibration automatique fonctionne ? (peut-être est-ce un rêve ;-)) ) merci Alain
  23. Hello, after factory reset the UM3 start wizard setup, first asked for printcore and all works fine then start removing filament. Stop, I waited for 20 minutes, power off and on the printer, restart wizard, printcore ok, filament... waiting.... I can’t do nothing, only power off .. thanks
  24. I have another problem with my UM3. The build plate to calibrate it correctly, I have to put it higher enough on the back of the two front left-right sides. I also printed um3-buildplate-distance-tool (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um3-buildplate-distance-tool) and also usign this I need to compensate in rear. It is very cumbersome to do the manual leveling, I have to do it in attempts until I find the right rear position. I encounter this problem from the first day. The glass looks straight as well as the alluminium in the direction of the y-axis. Curved in the x-axis direction. Is this normal? do I have to change some parts? Thanks.
  25. xxjudiith

    UM3 druckt nicht zweifarbig

    Hallo in unserer Bibliothek haben wir nun einen Ultimaker 3, den wir mit der Software Cura nutzen. Das normale Drucken ist kein Problem. Nur wenn wir zwei Fraben wir PLA blau und PLa weiß zusammen benutzen wollen klappt es nicht. Habe auch schon alle Anweisungen wie man das auf Cura einstellen muss gemacht siehe Internet Link https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/34012-get-started-with-cura-printing-with-two-colors Also für so ein Verkehrshütchen zuerst die Datei für die Ringe und dann die Datei mit dem Hütchen geöffnet, denn PLA geändert in White PLA und blue PLA, da diese Farben auf dem 3D Drucker sind. Dann wollte ich die Datei an den Drucker schicken, aber das ging nicht autmoatisch, sondern wie auf den angehangenen Screenshots, muss man das auswählen und genau da steht dann dass es nciht empfolen ist so zu drucken. Wenn ich das angeklickt habe, fängt er an zu drucken aber nach einer Schicht ist es dann auch vorbei, er druck dann in die Luft. Wäre cool wenn jmd schonmal auch Probleme damit hat, mir sagen kann was ich falsch gemacht habe oder wie man es richtig macht, damit der UM3 zweifarbig druckt 🙂 LG Judith 🙂
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