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  1. Hello, I've been developing a robotic arm able to take the printing out of a 3d Printer once the process is finished, being the reason that the lab i'm doing services for wants to automatize the process of finishing a print/starting the next print (if any) when no one is on the lab. I tested this arm with a UM2 machine + A Ramps 1.4 Processor/Arduino Mega in Lab's possession and it works fine, controlling it via I2C and using gcode (M260). The issue I face now is that at the end, the printers used by the lab are UM3 Extended. I've become aware more and more of the differences in Hardware architecture between UM2 and UM3 Extended (should have done this before, yes I know), and the tutorials posted here helped me a lot to see where the I2C ports are in the UM3 Extended. Considering that both I2C-based cables, P2 and P5 in the schematic here, are not connected to anything (not sure if i understood well, but those connections went to what was called "Feature X?" here), I had the idea of using one of these two unused cables to send I2C commands. Before trying anything with the UM3, I got into the UM3 developer mode and connected via Putty/SSH. Using ultimaker as user, i managed to enter the command interface and used G28 and G0/G1 successfully + still not connecting my mechanical arm, used M260, getting a message that the command was sent. Then I connected the arm to one I2C port of the 3d printer, checking several times that the pins were well connected in order to not burn the UM3 Extended, but I could not move the arm. With a logic analyzer, could see that connections were alright since i'm receiving the data sent to the print head with the right I2C addresses, the clock, 5V and GND properly, but when a message is sent via M260 using the command interface, nothing is received by my arm Microcontroller, so in at least one part of the process the message is being lost. I've been reading different posts in this forum and saw that the M260 is not listed amongst the possible commands to use, but G28 is not listed either and still I could use it. Also, I have seen nothing like the "I2C_EXPERIMENTAL" in a couple of Marlin Firmware versions (2017.06.21 and 2016.10.10) for the Ultimainboard. Finally, I have not found much references to the I2C port inside griffin folder. Is there a not too difficult way to control a slave (like my mechanical arm) via I2C, with the Ultimainboard as a master? I'm aware of the danger related to the usage of the developer mode and the addition of electrical connections to the I2C port of the UM3. PS: I would have liked to utilize the server, but the lab is using 3dprinterOS and I could not send commands through its platform. The firmware the UM3 Extended has is: Cheers and thanks in advance!
  2. Hi Everyone. I wanted to share a little python script I wrote for making time lapse videos with the onboard camera on the Ultimaker 3. Here is an example from a rather messy print I just did. Get it on GitHub. There's probably a lot of generic webcam tools for doing this already, but this one is nice because it doesn't start taking pictures until the printer begins printing, and it stops once the print is completed. The script requires Python 3 and FFmpeg. Usage $ ./timelapse.py HOST DELAY OUTFILE HOST is the IP address of your Ultimaker 3. You can find this through the menu by going to System > Network > Connection Status. DELAY is the time between snapshots in seconds. You'll probably want to figure this out based on how long your print will take and how long you want the video to be. For example, if I want a 10 second video at 30 fps, that will be 300 frames. If the print will take five hours, then 5 hours / 300 frames = 60 seconds between frames. OUTFILE is the name of the video file you want to make. It will be encoded using H.264 at 30 FPS. You can choose any container format you want, but I recommend either .mkv or .mp4.
  3. Hi there, I'm Matt and I have been writing about experiments in grayscale printing on the Ultimaker 3. This is a technique created by Tim Kuipers. In a nutshell, grayscale 3D printing allows you to print items in two colors, rather than monochrome. This gives an item enhanced depth, definition, and realism when compared to a monochrome print. Here's an example of what can be achieved: You can read a full article about it here. See all of Tim's designs here. At the time of writing, grayscale printing is not integrated into a stable version of Cura. However, it is possible to preview this feature. Please note: this feature is in a very early experimental stage and only intended for advanced users! 1. Download the CuraEngine backend configured to print in grayscale. 2. Compile the C++ code and run "CuraEngine" directly from the command line. Note: Currently there is no GUI. 3. Download a textured input model: Crushed can (Designed by Beerend Groot) https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/37649-grayscale-can-linear-halftoning Kuipers bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/textured-bust Blockade bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/blockade-textured Connecting rod https://www.youmagine.com/designs/connecting-rod-textured 4. Print! Please share your reactions/trials in this thread!
  4. So first off, I'm ideally looking for some guidance from a member of the Ultimaker staff with intimate knowledge on the board/interface software, but any input from an Ultimaker Staff member would be a good start. I have been working on my own material station "clone" for my Ultimaker 3, and have decided that the stock NFC reader simply doesn't have enough range/sensitivity for the NTAG216 tags I'm able to get. So, I am trying to replace the Stock NFC board with this; PN532 NFC Evolution V1 . For the purposes of testing, I've been using an Adafruit PN532 Breakout board that I already have, listed here; Adafruit PN532 Breakout Board Here's why I "know" so far... About the stock NFC Reader Uses an NXP PN532 NFC reader/writer chip and an onboard pcb antenna. Uses I2C protocol to communicate (from schematics and python file "nfcController.py" line 27.) Connects with the printer's "Olimex" board using a 9 pin Mini-Din connector. (from schematics) Powered by 5v from the printer and used a 3.3v step down to PN532. About the Evolution V1 / Adafruit replacement board linked above Uses an NXP PN532 NFC reader/writer chip and an onboard pcb antenna(Adafruit) or External antenna (Evolution V1). Powered by 5v and uses a step down/logic level converter to 3.3v Can Use I2C, UART, and SPI to communicate with "host". I've tried rigging up a connector for the replacement breakout board using the schematic as a reference for the pin-out, but alas, the printers diagnostics show that no NFC hardware is detected when my replacement board is connected . I'm using the diagnostics menu to test if NFC hardware is detected. I've used the Adafruit PN532 Library for Arduino to test the Adafruit board -- Worked I used the Adafruit library for Arduino to test the Ultimaker NFC Board -- Failed I used an I2C Scanner program on an Arduino Board to scan for detected I2C Devices -- Failed for UM3 Board, Worked for Adafruit Board (Address 0x24 in Hex) I Hooked up a PN532 Breakout board to the UM3 -- Failed I'd like to know what is special about the Stock NFC Reader that would different from a breakout board that would cause this? I can provide both the schematics for the Stock NFC reader hardware and the Adafruit PN532 Breakout as well as any other documentation I've referenced .
  5. Hallo, langsam bin ich am verzweifeln und finde keine hilfreichen Infos für folgendes Problem: Ich nutze den Ultimaker 3. Am Anfang jeden Druckes wird eine automatische Z-Kalibrierung durchgeführt, die immer fehl schlägt. Das Druckbett wird hierbei soweit hoch gefahren, dass der Printcore ziemlich weit reingedrückt wird, so dass man angst haben muss, dass etwas verbogen wird. Das war am Anfang, als der Drucker neu war, nicht der Fall, da hat das Druckbett den Printcore nur ganz leicht berührt. Eine manuelle Kalibrierung habe ich bereits durchgeführt, was aber keinen Erfolg brachte. Die Y-Kalibrierung wird ja an drei Printcore-Positionen durchgeführt. An der ersten Position scheint die Kalibrierung zu funktionieren, da wird der Druckkopf nur ganz leicht berührt, was ja auch so ein sollte. Jedoch an den anderen beiden Positionen nicht, da wird die Druckdüse ziemlich weit nach oben gedrückt. Nach der Kalibrierung gibt der Drucker eine Fehlermeldung aus, dass die beiden Printcores nicht auf der gleichen Höhe sind (irgendwie so). Druckdüsen und Glasplatte wurden bereits gereinigt. Hat jemand eine Idee was das Problem sein könnte? Ist das evtl. ein Defekt vom Drucker? Danke und Grüße Marcel
  6. I am printing some TPU parts and i could not figure out how to prevent oozing. Part picture is shown : Print temp : 220 C Speed : 30 mm/s Fan Speed 100% Nozzle is 0.8 Layer Height : 0.2mm I tried to lower temp but it did not help. Speed I dont want to reduce then recommended as there lots of comopnents i have to print.
  7. Hi. I'm new to Cura and the UM3 and today I wondered why I can't use the full build plate in Cura. I tried to create a 200x200x0.2 square to check the level of my bed and I can't get it to slice. Even a 190x190 square I can't fit onto the bed in Cura to get it to slice. Is there maybe a setting I'm not aware of that reduces the available bed size in Cura? Greetings Saij
  8. Does anyone knows if it´s possible to create own nfc tags for the UM3? The tags from the UM spools can be read from my Samsung S7, but the data format is unknown.
  9. Hello, sorry I am new to this I wonder if you could help me please. I have recently bought a 3d Solex print core (set of 4). I am using CURA on an Ultimaker 3 printer and I don't know how to change the Print core size. The drop down menu doesn't give me the choice I am after. I would like to change a core size to 0.6mm and having all the correct settings in CURA that work well with it. Your help is greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance. Fulvio
  10. Trying to figure out how to slice something like this cube with a sloped surface. I don't want a top, bottom or the the sloped part printed, just the infill. I have top/bottom thickness = 0, which properly removes the top and bottom, but not the slope. I tried using a support blocker with overlap settings with wall thickness = 0, but that doesn't seem to do anything. I thought of somehow changing my model, but it has to be a solid object to slice. Using Cura 5.2.1
  11. Hi, I want to install bondtech extruders for my Ultimaker 3. In the bondtech manual it is only shown to change the e steps until the firmware version 4.2.5 . My printer has the version 5.3.0 . For the version 4.2.5 the code is "vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json" What is the code for the 5.3.0 version? With the same code I get another result. Thanks Best regards Raphael
  12. Good afternoon everyone, I am a teacher new to 3D printing and I am having trouble with the support material. I have been able to pick most things up very quickly but the ability to print with support is killing me. I have had prints where the first layer of PVA lays down nice and progressively gets worse, then other times the pva material will come out clumpy or not even extrude. I have tried messing with the speed and temp to no avail. I am printing on the ultimaker3 and using ultimaker material and attempting to print with a 0.4 head with both materials. I was starting to think it is just poor PVA material, but I have opened a brand new package and had the same results, so I'm thinking I am missing something on the settings? I have attached the file and photo. Any help is greatly appreciated. If there was a previous post on this somewhere maybe a moderator could share or point tme in the right direction. Thanks in advance. Mr. C UM3_front bbs rims (1).gcode
  13. So this is a weird one that I'm not too sure on how to approach next... The printer has been working flawlessly for a while now, and a few day ago it printed a nice litophane cylinder, so I gave it another, I went away, when I got back, I saw it was missing it's top layers. I assumed the filament got stuck, so I cleaned everything up, made sure it's flowing nicely, and set it to print again. On the second attempt I was present, and the printer clearly showed 1+ hours of print time left, and then it just finished, at the exact same layer, cooled off and switched to "remove print message". I assumed it was a slicing error, so I re-sliced everything again in cura, checked in the preview, everything looked alright, I saved it, copied it to a new USB stick, and let it print again. Same thing, 1+ hours left, printer decides it's finished at the exact same layer and ends it. This is quite a bit issues since those are 13 hour long prints, so it's a lot of wasted time, and it worries me that I have no idea where the issue is. Any ideas? Do I need to upload the gcode? It's quite large at 80+ MB.
  14. I have a UM3 with firmware 4.3.96 and I am trying to update it but it fails to verify. WIFI setup doesn't work. it fails to create a hotspot but cable works partially. When I use a cable the UM3 gets an IP and I can connect to that IP in the browser. Cura finds the printer but won't stay connected - I get the blue check mark for 2 sec. so I can't do anything from Cura. I have tried most of what I ca find by googling b ut nothing seems to work. Please help!
  15. I feel like I'm being an idiot by asking this but... I'm trying to use a non- Ultimaker material. I found a profile for it in Cura and thought I sent it to the printer. When I go to Select the Material in the load process it's not there. Only the Generics are there. What am I missing? Thanks
  16. New here, but have been working with a UM3 extended for several years at work. We have always just printed using ABS, however I am working to try out PETG. I have done several test prints unsuccessfully. I have the print bed at 85*C, and have tried printing at 235, 245 and 255*C at the print head. Started out at 80mm/s and also tried 50 mm/s. Layer height at 0.15, material is the UM translucent blue. AA 0.4 nozzle Underlying issue seems to be the material stops feeding and is getting bound up which causes the feed wheel to chew up the filament and stop feeding. It seems to print fine for the first few minutes, then starts having issues after maybe 30 mins. Initially, I thought it was because filament wasn't getting hot enough, but at 255, seems like it should be plenty hot? Material feed tube is fairly new and hasn't had any issues feeding ABS. Any suggestions?
  17. I have been really struggling to get a decent print using the Ultimaker TPU on my S5 and S3. I have used both the red and blue version of the Ultimaker TPU95A, and I am using all the suggested slicer settings in Cura 4.13.1 for the Ultimaker TPU profile, but the end result of my prints is still unacceptable. I am attempting to print some flexible vent lines for an assembly mockup. The print typically starts off fine, but it will almost always stop because of the flow sensor error. When this occurs, i unload/reload the TPU and that will typically get it to start running again, but i think i get the poor print quality after that. Anyone know what is causing the flow sensor errors? This past time, i just got fed up with the print stopping every 30 minutes so i disabled the flow sensor and the print was horrible after that. Below are some pics of the slicer setup and the end results after printing. The bottom parts of the hose and the support look great, but after a certain height, it turns to garbage quickly. I will also attach the obj files for these hose assemblies. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you DT-internal-NOclip part b.obj DT-internal-NOclip part a.obj
  18. Bonsoir à tous, Je lance une impression, la buse n'est pas bouchée, tout se passe bien... Et puis à un moment donné, le tube bowden sort du feeder et le filament se déroule à l'extérieur de l'imprimante ! Avez-vous déjà rencontré ce problème ? Est-ce que le tube peut être déformé par le feeder ? Si c'est le cas puis-je en couper 1 ou 2 cm ? Merci de votre aide.
  19. Hello, I am trying to print multiple parts, but every time the extrusion stops halfway through a print. When I start a new print after, it will still not work. To get it to extrude again, I have to unload the PLA, cut off the top part, and re-insert the PLA before it will extrude again. Here is a picture of what the PLA looks like after it stops extruding: Can someone help me fix this? I can only do print jobs of about 30 minutes before this happens, and I have to reload the PLA every time. I can never do a print longer than 30 minutes. The prints look like this when it stops: The printer will still finish the print as if it is still extruding, but nothing will come out. I am using an Ultimaker 3. Thanks in advance!
  20. Hello, I operate an Ultimaker 3 at my Workplace. We bought a 3D Solex Printcore about a year ago as a replacement and the prints were good. After we updated to Cura 5.0 we encountered problems of underextrusion and worst of all the Feedwheel grinding itself into the PLA Material. I tried everithing i could think of. I cleaned the feeder - didn't help I replaced the nozzle - didn't help I replaced the Printcore - didn't help I updated to 5.1 - didn't help I downgraded to 4.13.1 - didn't help I am pretty shure , that the Printcore or the nozzle is the problem. I made a testprint with an Ultimaker Printcore and the print went fine, with no problems. I also noticed that when loading the Ultimaker core, that the ammount of plastic pushed through the nozzle is higher, compared to the Solex core and when i pust by hand the ultimaker nozzle is easyer to push through then the Solex. My suspicion is that the 3 internal holes in the nozzle are obstructing the flow to a point, where printing is possible for small or short prints. But to be honest i am shooting into the dark here. Does anyone have an explanation or solution to the problem, e.g. lowering the printspeed to a point where the low throughput is compensated for. Kind Regards Musel Pressure setting of the Feeder Grinding on the Material during printing with no support and as little retraction as possible. Grinding on the Material, when Material is loadet into the Printhead and getting pushed through the nozzle.
  21. Hi, can anyone help explain why I have those weird infill pattern within my print as shown in the picture attached. I am trying to print a circular disc with a combination of a "line" infill pattern at the center and a concentric infill pattern away from the center. I use Ultimaker cura 4.13.1 and I am concerned about those inconsistent patterns within the print. Thanks
  22. Hi there, I'd be interested in seeing the current layer number - correspondig with the enumeration, CURA indicates in layer view - while UM3 is printing. That way it would be easier to watch, when a critical part of a model is printed. Maybe you could consider this for some of the coming firmware releases. Thanks Klaus
  23. Hello Ultimaker community, I have a problem with the feeder 1 of one of my Ultimaker 3 Extended. At about 70% of the print job, the feeder always starts grinding into the filament. This only happens with the feeder 1 and the error changes with the part. I have changed the feeder with the one of another Ultimaker 3 EX and the problem is always at the printer with the faulty feeder. Do you have any suggestions as to what this could be? Do I need to get a new feeder? I have already checked and cleaned the feeder and could not find a problem. Thank you.
  24. Hey everyone. @Enigma_M4 @fbrc8-erin @3dprintz I've successfully upgraded to S5 feeders on my UM3 with instructions from CarloK. I've put together a detailed write-up for making the upgrades. The doc is still a WIP and I'll be adding more photos, but thought this would be nice if anyone is adventurous. I've been testing it for two weeks a now and so far so good! It gives abrasion resistant feeders and flow sensor. Also the S5 feeder is just way nicer to change filament using the new lever system. The spring lever system of the stock UM3 is so poor in comparison. NOTE: This document is still a WIP. There may be typos or small mistakes. Please do this mod at your own discretion! Its very simple but it does require one small modification to the ultimaker case, so it may void warranty if that matters to you. More photos will be added in the coming days. Also if you spot any errors in the doc let me know. https://docs.google.com/document/d/1xS30mssCCnmrijWDpg-YsJSjPGnsYNUsdmtQHAISqxY/edit?usp=sharing I can also make a new post if everyone feels that this is worthwhile.
  25. Even when printing at higher qualities my prints on my Ultimaker 3 have been inconsistent, I just recently got my printer so I'm still learning the ins and outs of it, does anyone have insight on what I could do to fix this issue? Thanks
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