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Found 430 results

  1. Mosher

    missing top surface

    Hello everyone, i have a problem with my model. i created a model in Sketchup, then exported through STl-Exporter to Cura. In between i double-checked if there are mistakes in my model, with a bunch of different apps. My model looks right after opening it in Cura, but after preparing the G-Code i see some mistakes. Two surfaces in my model does not have a top layer See Images pls. Can you pls help me fix it? I don't know what causes this false G-Code. Thank you all
  2. KickahaOta

    UM3 Extruder calibration

    Pretty much every "beginner's guide to 3D printing" I look at emphasizes the importance of calibrating the extruders (making sure that "extrude 100mm" is actually pushing 100mm of filament and not 104 or 97), to avoid over/underextrusion. In contrast, the Ultimaker documentation for over/underextrustion doesn't even appear to mention extruder calibration as a possible solution. And changing the extruder steps setting requires going into developer mode and editing files, then repeating that every time there's a firmware upgrade. I thought about phrasing this as a feature request -- for an extruder calibrator built into the firmware that prompts you through the measurement steps and then adjusts the steps-per-millimeter settings appropriately. But the absence of documentation suggests that this is a deliberate decision. So I'll just make it a question: What's Ultimaker's position on extruder calibration? Is there something about the Ultimaker design that makes it unnecessary, or that means that there are better ways of adjusting for possible overfeeding/underfeeding?
  3. bigmodels

    architectural facade details

    After some trial and error with sizes I think I have come up with what works best for me with building details on the UM3. Attached a couple photos of before and after to show the end result. For vertical extrusions out from the face of the building I use 0.6mm width due to my nozzle size, for internal thin cuts that indent into the model I use 0.4mm width and for horizontal indentations and extrusions I use a height of 0.2mm. Windows I usually cut in 0.5mm with a 0.6mm offset to show the window frames when possible and for the thin elements I extrude or cut in 0.2mm just to show the facade panels details, this 0.2mm just shows enough of a detail to make it readable. Sometimes in the models I can't show all the horizontal elements due to the 0.6mm size but am able to capture enough detail for a solid representation of the facade. This model was in 1:500 scale and took a solid 3 days to print. I am using Form Futura atlas support in a polybox, which has never given me any issues and standard Ultimaker PVA settings. The balconies and verandah were printed separately. Hope this all makes sense. If anyone out there has any tweaks so I can add more detail, I would love to hear it.
  4. cjryker06

    UM3 Safety Shutdown?

    Does anyone know of any safety features that engage on UM printers if they detect a problem? In my situation I believe it to be the X / Y stepper motors overheating. The problem: printer stops printing after about 30 minutes,lights go off, all heaters shutoff, display shows no issue for several minutes then shows X / Y motors stuck or switch broke (ER17) with the print head in the middle of the bed A little insight to my situation: 1. problem didn't exist prior to today when I updated firmware (does firmware have a way of knowing motor temps?) 2. stepper motors are getting hot enough to the tough that it is very uncomfortable to keep your hand on them (too much voltage?) 3. takes roughly the same amount of time for the shutdown to occur when trying to print the same part twice (time for motors to overheat?) 4. UM3E roughly 6 months old My first thoughts are safety shutdown. I don't feel it would be an improper voltage setting from the factory that took almost 6 months to appear, nor a thermal runaway issue considering it indicates a movement problem. Any help would be great.
  5. I have one roll of Black PLA from ADD3D (made in Sweden) with these parameters in extruder 1: Density: 1,24 g/cm³ Diameter: 2.85 mm Extrude temp: 200°C Retract: 2 mm Retract speed: 25 mm/s Standby temp: 175 °C Fan speed: 100% In extruder 2 I have original yellow PLA from Ultimaker with the predefined profile in Cura: Density: 1,24 g/cm³ Diameter: 2.85 mm Extrude temp: 200°C Retract: 2 mm (also tested with 1mm at 210°C) Retract speed: 25 mm/s Standby temp: 175 °C Fan speed: 100% Heatbed at 60°C and I have a complete enclosure (Top-Hod and front door). The black PLA is printing with exceptional good quality but the Yellow is behaving extreemly strange and produces a full birdnest of strings. Unfortunatly I removed the strings by hand before I took any pictures (doh 😣 ). It seems like it has been feed as it should because there are no marks on the PLA filament indicating otherwise. First print: The black i perfect and even very small details such as the "bolt holes" in the base top surface are perfect. The Yellow PLA from Ultimaker however is not performing at all. These is all aout of the box, no parameters changed. Then I tried to rise the temperature a bit to 210°C and retract to 1mm and it got even worse. The upper half of the second yellow stripe (from the bottom) should be solid yellow without any material change, but that part is the worst. I don't know if this is because of the PLA itself or if Cura has messed it up completley? I have also attached the project file for the first printout. UM3_Tile_Wall.curaproject.3mf
  6. Hello, I bought an Ultimaker 3 one month ago and I have a constant problem of jamming/gindring in Printcore AA with PLA. All 2 hour long prints are half done because of this. Actually, the filament is stuck because of an increase in diameter from 2.85mm to 3mm around the Printcore. Friction in boden tube, retraction prevented, grinding in the feeder, filament jammed. That makes me quite astonished because I haven't changed anything in the Cura profile, nor on the printer. I never had a problem like this on Ultimaker 2+...
  7. Hi Friends!! I am selling for £2,700 a very lightly used Ultimaker 3 in totally excellent condition that has been basically used for 15 prints in total in ABS (mainly) and PLA! I want to buy the same but the extended so I am selling this one. Printer is in the exotic Leicester UK. Can ship plus drive the UM3 in reasonable distance.. Look at the pictures and you will understand how nice and clean the 3D printer is. The printer has been kept covered to prevent dust as well (you can see cover in a picture). The only cosmetic issue is slight heat-induced discolouration on the rubber cover of the extruder, the one used for ABS (you can see in one picture) plus some glue marks on the glass plate, easily washable!! The 2 0.4mm AA cores are on at the moment and of course I have the BB core plus the other few bits. Printer is excellent and all works fine. I have cleaned it up few times and have adjusted xy position twice, according to manual. I have ONLY used it with Ultimaker's own filament (black ABS and grey PLA) which is a good thing. I have currently unloaded the filament. I am based in Leicester UK. Can ship to UK or elsewhere in EU for a cost but lets discuss if interested..
  8. So... in preparation to my local craft/makers event in a weeks time and for an upcoming photoshoot for my new website, the 3D printer was very, very busy. And I haven't even started on the prints to fundraise for the Pangolins yet! I made a simple design to make keyrings. (test print)
  9. Hi, I got a problem with the API. I registered my application, got my id+key and verified it with the the proper API commands (Timestamps differ!). After that I wanted to change the LED Color like in the "Inside the Ultimaker 3 - Day 3 - Remote access (part 2)". So I tried {"brightness": 120.0, "saturation": 100.0, "hue": 100.0} even if the "Example Value" said "value" instead of brightness. (Postman API call returned (/printer/led) returned "brightness") The problem was that the color didn't change. Reboot. Again nothing. I logged up the log after the reboot and found this in the log: Jun 08 06:51:30 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 systemd[1]: Time has been changed Jan 01 00:00:59 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 connmand[254]: ntp: time slew +1528440630.651671 s Jan 01 00:00:53 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 flipflop_wsgi.py[413]: 00:00:53 - WAR - app.libs.printer_api:189 - Failed to set the LED color for printer at http://192.168.0.14/api/v1 ... Jan 01 00:00:43 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 flipflop_wsgi.py[413]: 00:00:43 - WAR - app.libs.printer_api:189 - Failed to set the LED color for printer at http://192.168.0.14/api/v1 Why is the IP different? Or is this just coincidence? The IP changed indeed from 14 to 31, mhhhh Anyway I tried another command, which was also mentioned in the forum post => Changing the name. The example name was "MyUltimaker3", I tried "Ultimaker3" instead. Does anyone got an idea why this is a bad request? Another thing is the old firmware. The log says: Jan 01 00:00:29 ultimakersystem-ccbdd3004c87 python3[226]: 1970-01-01 00:00:29,605 INFO systemUpdate Comparing firmware 'stable' old version '4.2.5.20180102' with new version '4.3.2.20180308' with result: False Are these just bugs? (Updating is not that easy.I have to ask for permission, since I'm not alone exploring the device ) P.S: I'm using Firefox 60.0.2 & Postman 6.1.3
  10. ewok2

    ABS aderence inter couches

    Bonjour Je tente d'imprimer une piece en ABS sur une Ultimaker 3. Pour les pieces fines (proche du plateau chaufant, pas de pb. Mais quand je "monte" j'ai des probleme d'adesion d'une couche a l'autre. J'ai tenté - d'augmenter la T° - d'imprimer plus vite - de jouer sur l'epaisseur 0.1, 0.2 , 0.3 sans succés Pour info j'utilise la buse 0.4 Apres plusieurs tests j'ai eu l'impression que le "decolement" de couche etait assez régulier... environ tous les 8/9 mm Une idée sur la maniere de resoudre le probleme ? Merci
  11. For some of my PLA prints (which I print with a 60C build plate temperature), I find that I get a better result if I wait until the plate is down to 40C or 35C before removing the object from the plate. Unfortunately, there's no good way to see the temperature, since when the UM3 interface is on the "Please remove object" screen, you can't go to any other screens before choosing "Print removed", at which point you've put the printer back online and, well, you'd better have removed the object from the plate. :) I was going to suggest putting the build plate temperature on the "Please remove object" screen, but it seemed like that would be significant work and likely wouldn't meet a feature-request bar. Then I printed my first CFE+ object (with the build plate cranked up to 107C), and saw that when the build plate temperature is above 60C, the "Cooling built plate" screen is displayed instead, and that screen does show the temperature. So all of a sudden my request seems at least vaguely reasonable. :) Any thoughts on letting the user configure the temperature threshold at which the "Cooling build plate" screen is displayed in place of the plain "Please remove object" screen? For my purposes it wouldn't even have to be in the UM3 or Cura interface; I'd be happy if it was something I could add to the starting or ending G-code for the printer or the job.
  12. gr5

    Recovering a Bricked UM3

    Copied from someone else - I didn't write 99% of what is below but I think it's very useful - especially if you are messing with json files on your UM3 and it stops booting. you'll find a recovery image here: recovery.img. You can install this update by putting this image in a micro sd card - but don't just copy the file there you have to do a special process to make it a bootable sd card. here is a nice guide on putting a disk image on a sd card: https://www.hifiberry.com/build/documentation/create-sd-card-from-img-file/ If you are working with MacOS, you can better use ApplePie baker: https://www.tweaking4all.com/software/macosx-software/macosx-apple-pi-baker/ • Insert the Micro SD card in your computer. • Use the IMG recipe section and search for the file. • Click on the Restore Backup button. • Once that is done you can put the SD card back in the printer and check if it boots correctly. Then, removing the plastic cap in front of the olimex board (it is located on the bottom of your printer), find the SD card slot and insert the SD card: The SD card slot is located on the smaller board in the back. (Where the network cable connects into) In order to reach it you will need to remove the micro USB cable in front of it Now, booting up (only once) with the sd card inserted, wait until a green light goes on on the led ring around the control knob. The display will also tell you to remove the sd card and reboot. After all this you probably want to update to the latest firmware as I'm not sure that the link above will always be the latest but the printer will know if it is the latest or not. Please message me with more details that you learn as I have never tried this with an Olimex board (I've done the same basic procedure on a Beagle Bone Black).
  13. I want to "abort" (pause & restart) a print. So I tried to set a state (PUT /print_job/state) on the WebGUI. But it doesn't stop (Yes, I'm successfully authenticated since I started the job) If I put "abort" (with quotation) in the box and click "Try out" the response is: { "message": "'str' object has no attribute 'get'" } If I send abort, the response is: { "message": "400: Bad Request" } Which command do I have to "send" to the printer, to abort/pause/print and how is the formatting? Thank you! 🙂
  14. I recently purchased a ruby-tipped nozzle from 3dSolex to help print chopped carbon fiber filament. So far the new extruder and nozzle have worked extremely well and have made some beautiful prints. Today though, I noticed it was under extruding on some smaller pieces I was printed, so I decided to do a printhead cleaning to clear out the blockage. The hot pull went fine, but the cold pull is where I ran into issues. Essentially when I went to pull the cold filament out, it did NOT want to come out. I've done cold pulls before with little to no trouble, but this time the filament was so stuck in the extruder that it was literally pulling the nozzle up when I yanked on it. I ended up getting a coworker to come help and instead of finally freeing the filament it instead snapped somewhere inside the extruder. I figured this wouldn't be a big deal just because you can reheat the nozzle and start pushing the filament out again. No such luck. I've tried setting up for another hot pull and also manually changing the temperature of the nozzle to 220C with no extrusion taking place. My fear now is that whatever was initially blocking the filament has moved to keep the broken piece from being able to exit the nozzle, leaving the small chunk of PLA stuck inside. That said, any advice on how to free the blockage from the inside of the nozzle? My best guess as of right now is increasing the temperature and maintaining a more constant pressure, but other than that I can't think of many other options. Edit: Fixed issue Ended up having to disassemble the printcore to reach the set tube the filament was stuck in and then heated it up with a heat gun. Ideally there is an easier solution out there, but for the time being it seems to be flowing again.
  15. Wouldn't it be nice to be able to view and connect to your Ultimaker 3 from anywhere in the world! I do not like how the limited Ultimaker app is especially limited because it has to be connected to the same network that the Ultimaker 3 is connected to, I wish there was a way to connect the my Ultimaker through any wireless connection. To my knowledge, this is not currently possible without hardware modifications (for instance, adding Octoprint), but I may be wrong. If anyone knows a way of contacting the Ultimaker 3 from a network other than the network that the Ultimaker is connected to, please let me know. Thanks in advance!
  16. Bonjour à tous, Je suis en train d'essayer de fusionner des STL pour de l'impression bi-color. Le soucis c'est que lorsque j'importe mon STL (glisser clique gauche dans la fenêtre Cura), Cura créait un point au centre du volume et c'est ce point qui sert aux coordonnées pour le placement sur le plateau. Je place mes 2 STL en 0;0;0 et là l'alignement n'est pas bon, ou si je fais directement "fusionner les modèles" ils se retrouvent avec un point en commun par exemple en bas à gauche... Pourquoi Cura ne garde pas l'origine du logiciel CAO (SolidWorks 2016 dans mon cas) ? Y a t'il une option à cocher pour justement définir l'origine du CAO comme origine dans Cura ? Pour info les 2 STL sont issus du même modèle CAO, donc l'origine CAO est bien la même. Alors que dans Cura l'origine est automatiquement au centre du solide. Merci d'avance !
  17. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  18. Numa P.

    Problème de nivellement actif

    Bonjour à tous, Je suis en stage dans une entreprise qui dispose d'une imprimante Ultimaker 3 depuis maintenant quelques semaines. Au début, tout fonctionnait parfaitement. Cependant, depuis hier, le nivellement actif ne fonctionne plus. Le plateau monte, rentre en contact avec les buses et ne s'arrête pas si on appuie pas sur abandonner. Je pense qu'il y a un problème au niveau du capteur. J'ai effectué le nivellement manuel, qui lui a l'air de fonctionner. Pouvez -vous m'aider ? Merci beaucoup d'avance
  19. Cristophe

    Recherche aide Annecy

    Bonjour à tous, Propriétaire d’une Um3 et novice, je recherche une bonne volonté du côté d’Annecy (haute Savoie), pour m’aider dans l’utilisation de cette imprimante. Bonne fin de week-end.
  20. Bonjour, UM3 très peu utilisée, 2 têtes d'impression, plateau chauffant en verre (excellente adhésion), reconnaissance des bobines par puce RFID, chargement des impressions par Wifi/ethernet/clé USB, suivi de l'impression par caméra intégrée, gestion de l'impression par smartphone... 500 heures d'impression sur la tête n1 et 10h sur la tête n2. Vient avec tous ses accessoires, 4 bobines de fil (gris argent, vert, bois et PVA (soluble dans l'eau, aucune trace de supports !!) Très facile d'utilisation avec le logiciel CURA développé par Ultimaker (tout est pré-réglé, plug and play) Pour en savoir plus sur ses performances allez sur le site de Ultimaker et regardez pour la Ultimaker 3. Prix 3650 dollars canadiens, les taxes sont comprises 😉 les bobines aussi, et 3 têtes d'impression. La machine est déjà réglée.
  21. I've recently started printing a set of stoppers out of Ultimaker's TPU95 material. This material is great and extremely shock absorbent, but it tends to string more than other filaments due to its flexibility. This becomes a slight issue when printing two of these stoppers in the same build tray, since when it goes from one tower to another it will string and leave a small blob of material on the surface of the part. In other materials these blots can be easily taken off, but with TPU it becomes harder since the material tends to elastically stick together. Has anyone found any particularly good retraction settings to reduce stringing in TPU? Here's a picture to illustrate the blotting I'm talking about, seen on the front surface of the square tower:
  22. HI,my question is How i can view my um3 from outside my house? There where 2 or 3 topic,but i don't found a solution. Please if you know a solution write it down. Thanks and best regards, Bogdan.
  23. Recently I've begun test printing a part for production on my UM3 that has a number of dimension-sensitive holes in the X and Z directions. As a test I went ahead and printed the part with both Normal (.15) and Extra Fine (.06) settings using Ultimaker PLA with PVA supports. The Normal print turned out fairly well, but the Extra Fine part ended up with some rather severe pillowing on the top layer, as well as significant warping in the back right corner despite using a thin layer of glue as directed. I used the default settings for the Extra Fine, so there should have been 17 top layers which should have reduced the pillowing somewhat, but clearly it didn't do much. What's also odd is that the finish of the Extra Fine print is actually much more matte than the Normal part. Does anyone have experience printing larger surface areas with the Extra Fine setting that might reduce this pillowing? Also are there any methods other than a glue stick that are useful for reducing warping? For the time being there isn't an enclosure we can use for the full printer, but if that is a common solution it'd be good to know. Any other general tips and tricks for getting a part to print with consistent dimensional accuracy would be welcome, since as of now I've had to go into the files for every part I've printed to make adjustments for the printer.
  24. Selling my ultimaker 3 it's never been out of the box , purchased a ultimaker 3 extended company paid for it. Was going to use it for a backup ,decided to free up a little capital .
  25. Hi I want to print a downscaled object(from several meters to 2% of original size). It has a lot of pipes and pumps and small objects that are downscaled too. Is there a way to print a downscaled pipe (imagine a can) as a full modell or with several mm wall thickness to the inside in Cura that it get's stable? And is there a way to upscale small objects somehow or to thicken up to a minimum wall size? I tried several settings in Cura with the housing but didn't had success in it.. Best & thanks for your help Simon
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