Jump to content
Cura Connect | Survey Read more... ×
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'UM3'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • Official news
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
    • Ultimaker.com feedback
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Materials
    • Modifications, third party add-ons & other hardware
  • 3D print Questions
    • Help, Tips & Tricks
    • 3D modeling software
  • Fields of Work
    • Architecture
    • Engineering
    • Manufacturing
    • Education
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Events and meetings
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages
  • Clubs used for testing's Clubs explained

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me

Field of Work


3D printer

On The Web

Found 459 results

  1. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    🙂Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine😃. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over😲. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. 🙏Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  2. I want to print this as a mold for a silicon part. I got the tree AA Nozzles. I'm pretty sure that if I printed with PLA .25 Nozzle an layers off .05. It will be great. But what,if I use the same height but with a .4 or .8 nozzle. Do you think that it will give me the same detail inside. thank you. Tonydg. 3dPrinted Ins Mold 18-8-11.stl
  3. Hi We currently have 2 printers - an Ulti 2 (upgraded to 2+) and a Ulti 2+ Extended. We have budget approved to get another machine but I am not sold that the Ulti 3 Extended is better value for money over a 2+Extended. The Pros v Cons for an Ulti 3 over an Ulti 2+ as I see it are: Pros ability to print dissolvable supports ability to print in 2 colours Cons more expensive slower print speed due to extra weight of the dual print head slower print speed due to printing dual filament slightly reduced print area size due to larger print head dissolvable support filament is twice as expensive as normal filament Pretty much our most critical factor is time. From what I have read, the Ulti 3 is slower than an Ulti 2+ on a like for like print, due to the extra weight of the print head (slower movements to compensate for the extra weight). We also print almost exclusively in white PLA filament, so apart from dissolvable support material I don't see much use for 2 colour prints. But easily over 90% of what we do print does not require the use of support material, so the majority of the time dissolvable supports would not be of benefit. It also seems to me that the Ulti 3 is also a bit more fussy than the Ulti 2+? It is obviously a more complicated machine than the Ulti 2+. Just wondering if I am missing anything? Just wondering if those who have or have had both an Ulti 2+/3 could perhaps relay there experiences of using them. I am prepared to be swayed but at the moment can't see that the Ulti 3 would be a clear improvement for us over the 2+ 🙂
  4. Hi I hope I can express my problem understandable in English (I am not a native speaker). My problem is, that all prints have over extruded corners along the Z direction. Maybe it is not really a over extrusion, I think it has more to do with overlapping in the corners. The next two pictures hopefully shows what I mean (view from the top) How can I get rid of these issues? I am using a UM3, Cura and PLA. Haven't touched any Cura custom settings, just printed with Fast or Normal, but it is with both profiles. Thanks! BR Christian
  5. dennispo

    Who am I.jpg

     (。・`ω´・)  Daily dumb
  6. Ultimaker 3 did not start. Switched on then only Diplay "Ultimaker" and the fan starts shortly.
  7. Good morning, I'm having trouble leveling my Ultimaker 3 print bed. I currently have two different print cores, AA 0.4mm and AA 0.8mm, and as seen in the attached photo they are sitting at different lengths. For this reason the auto-leveling does not work. Additionally I'm not sure the best way to manually level, as sometimes only the shorter nozzle is down to touch the calibration card, and other times they both are, in which case the longer nozzle makes contact first. Maybe something is wrong with one of the cores or their installation and they are not supposed to be at different heights. Just wondering if anyone out there was also running different size nozzles like this and how you went about bed leveling. Thanks!
  8. Ryan8696

    BB Core

    Hi, I'm having an issue where my AA core is printing perfectly, however my BB core is printing too high and not "squishing" into the bed. I've tried levelling manually - but before a print the active levelling does it's thing and end up with the same problem. Is there a way that I can adjust the height of the BB nozzle independently? I want the AA core to remain at it's current height but the BB core to be lower. Thanks!
  9. Dear Ultimaker Team We are one of the resellers in India we have almost sold around 40 ultimaker 3 and 3 extended printers around India.our customers recently facing the issues with this printers. 1. Communication Error with the Print Head/ER18 (around 10 to 20 customers complained about this issue.) 2. There is an I2C Communication Error around 10 customers complained about this issue. 3. X or Y axis is stuck or limit switch has broken/ER17 around 5 to10 customers complained about the issue. We have solved the above issues by continuously following Ultimaker community but may I know what is the reason these issues are happening with every printer. and my request is Please try to update new firmware for resolving this type of issues. Hope this information will help you to give better service to the customers Thank you & Regards Praveen Jadi Technical Support Head Think3D
  10. crooshe

    [Résolu]Sous Extrusion

    Bonjour, J'ai un problème avec une UM3 Neuve. Quand j'essaye d'imprimer au bout d'un certain temps le filament est rogné et j'ai alors de la sous extrusion (ou le contraire). J'ai essayer alors à partir des paramètre de base de Cura 3.4 : - Passage avec une rétractation à 4mm et vitesse 40mm/s - Vitesse d'impression à 60mm/s.... - Méthode atomic pour le nettoyage de la buse malgré que les première couche sont toujours parfaites. Et lors du chargement du filament je n'ai aucun problème. J'utilise du Polymaker Polymax mais j'ai essayé avec le PLA Ultimaker même résultat. Bref toujours le même problème et ça commence un peu à m'énerver parce que sur une Prusa I3 je n'ai jamais eu de tel problème pourtant la machine est pratiquement 6 fois moins chère.... Je peut faire des photos si vous voulez. Merci à tous de votre aide. Si vous avez des paramètre à me préconisé je suis preneur.
  11. Hallo, habe ein Problem mit den oberen Schichten bei einem 2-farbigen Druck mit PLA auf meinem UM3. 1.Bild zeigt den Druck ohne Einzugsturm und das 2.Bild zeigt den Druck mit Einzugsturm (Druck schon besser). Dennoch sieht man ganz gut, dass fast bis zur Hälfte der Druck gut verlaufen ist und dann die Probleme anfangen. Ich habe die empfohlenen Cura Standardeinstellungen (Normal mit 0,15mm), nur mit der Ergänzung des Einzugsturms. Als Material kommen die originalen PLA Spulen von UM zum Einsatz. Woran kann es liegen? Über ein paar Tipps bin ich dankbar. Danke vorab.
  12. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  13. Ultimaker2000

    Network Name

    I have searched in many Articles, but I did not find any hint. Where / how can I change the network name of the printer. Ultimaker 3, Cura, macOS, LAN Thank you
  14. For some of my PLA prints (which I print with a 60C build plate temperature), I find that I get a better result if I wait until the plate is down to 40C or 35C before removing the object from the plate. Unfortunately, there's no good way to see the temperature, since when the UM3 interface is on the "Please remove object" screen, you can't go to any other screens before choosing "Print removed", at which point you've put the printer back online and, well, you'd better have removed the object from the plate. :) I was going to suggest putting the build plate temperature on the "Please remove object" screen, but it seemed like that would be significant work and likely wouldn't meet a feature-request bar. Then I printed my first CFE+ object (with the build plate cranked up to 107C), and saw that when the build plate temperature is above 60C, the "Cooling built plate" screen is displayed instead, and that screen does show the temperature. So all of a sudden my request seems at least vaguely reasonable. :) Any thoughts on letting the user configure the temperature threshold at which the "Cooling build plate" screen is displayed in place of the plain "Please remove object" screen? For my purposes it wouldn't even have to be in the UM3 or Cura interface; I'd be happy if it was something I could add to the starting or ending G-code for the printer or the job.
  15. Hello, sorry I am new to this I wonder if you could help me please. I have recently bought a 3d Solex print core (set of 4). I am using CURA on an Ultimaker 3 printer and I don't know how to change the Print core size. The drop down menu doesn't give me the choice I am after. I would like to change a core size to 0.6mm and having all the correct settings in CURA that work well with it. Your help is greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance. Fulvio
  16. Hello everyone, after buying the Ultimaker Original, two Ultimaker 2+ Extended, Ultimaker 3 and many more printers, I finally manage to solve a big problem. Since my company bought the UM3 about a year ago, the NFC sensor has not worked. At first I thought it might be due to a loose contact, but I checked the cables. Our service partner wanted to take money for a repair within the repair time, so I turn to the forum. No Ultimaker filament rolls are detected. Even under the "Maintenance" settings, the printer indicates that no NFC sensor is connected, although this is the case. I would be very happy about your help, especially because we are now switching to Utlimaker's own material due to various problems and this simply is not recognized. Many thanks in advance! Ben
  17. I have been using UM3 for printing functional prototypes for various projects going on at NIH. As many parts I print require precision, I have to change the print parameters which result in large print times and increased material consumption. Many times, the prints are overnight and the printer runs out of material leaving the nozzle printing in air. It’s frustrating because I have to start whole print again wasting material and more importantly, time. I noticed that the new Ultimaker S5 has something called Filament RunOut Sensor, and I have been reading on your community page that you guys have been working on developing something like that for long time. I would really appreciate it if you have figured out a way to install that on UM3 as it is the primary printer we use Thanks!
  18. Hallo, langsam bin ich am verzweifeln und finde keine hilfreichen Infos für folgendes Problem: Ich nutze den Ultimaker 3. Am Anfang jeden Druckes wird eine automatische Z-Kalibrierung durchgeführt, die immer fehl schlägt. Das Druckbett wird hierbei soweit hoch gefahren, dass der Printcore ziemlich weit reingedrückt wird, so dass man angst haben muss, dass etwas verbogen wird. Das war am Anfang, als der Drucker neu war, nicht der Fall, da hat das Druckbett den Printcore nur ganz leicht berührt. Eine manuelle Kalibrierung habe ich bereits durchgeführt, was aber keinen Erfolg brachte. Die Y-Kalibrierung wird ja an drei Printcore-Positionen durchgeführt. An der ersten Position scheint die Kalibrierung zu funktionieren, da wird der Druckkopf nur ganz leicht berührt, was ja auch so ein sollte. Jedoch an den anderen beiden Positionen nicht, da wird die Druckdüse ziemlich weit nach oben gedrückt. Nach der Kalibrierung gibt der Drucker eine Fehlermeldung aus, dass die beiden Printcores nicht auf der gleichen Höhe sind (irgendwie so). Druckdüsen und Glasplatte wurden bereits gereinigt. Hat jemand eine Idee was das Problem sein könnte? Ist das evtl. ein Defekt vom Drucker? Danke und Grüße Marcel
  19. I want to connect the Ultimaker 3 to our LAN at work, however we use static IP addresses only - the server doesn't use DHCP, and there is no WiFi available (for security reasons). Is it possible to configure the IP address, Subnet mask, and Gateway info on the Ultimaker 3 manually?
  20. fntsmn

    Skulpt Thibra3D

    This year I worked for different months to create and improve Skulpt from Thibra3D, was a lot of fun and I think is something different on the market. I will share with all of you my experience and suggestion to be able to have a great print with it. In few words Skulpt how is name suggest is a filament that you can 3D print and apply small or big changes at the printed model just heating up the surface and using tools that are commonly used for sculpting or even only a screwdriver. This was one of my first test with the material a pumpkin, unfortunatly the print didn't went that well but is skulpt so was easy to fix it (the material was still in a experimental stage) I could made a better job with fixing the shape but I was still impressed on what could be done with the material. My second test was printing something low poly and sculpt it to become high poly with a lot of details. I decided to download and print this low poly fox I started to be really impressed on what I was able to do with this filaments and understand a bit better what you can do and what is better avoid with it. Example with the Fox the supports work out really well and they come out really easily and you can smooth the surface super easily, you will never be able to see any imperfection on the surface that usually supports materials leave, one small disadvantage is that is tricky to print for small details, because the material like to keep the heat, but at the same time this details are super easy to fix after the print is done. Now that I was more confident with my settings and skills I decide to print Groot Bust Another fantastic print! Support material was great I increased the detail, smoothed the surface and then Painted without any need of sanding the surface,you will never see the layers of printing and when the model cool down it become really solid and doesn't not feel like a 3d printed object. At this point the material was really stable and working perfectly so we proceed on play more with the color and just finalize the material to make it ready for the market so I decide to make a big and long print on my Ultimaker 3. I decided to print my head, the print took around 70 hours to finish and I used the following settings: Extrusion Multiplier: 1.21 Retraction Distance: 0 mm Layer Height: 0.2 Top Layers: 15 Bottom Layers: 5 Outline: 7 Infill: 50% Internal Fill Pattern: Grid Brim: 35 Outlines Extruder Temp.: 205 Heated bed: 60° only for the first layer then 45° Fan Speed: 100% Speed: 50 mm/s The spools that I used for this print wasn't the final product but we was still playing with the color this is why you can see some inconsistency. After I removed all the supports I started to increase and add all the hairs details. To add details is pretty easy you can use 3 main way: - Hairdryer : Take a bit of time to make the material soft but you avoid to over heat it and maybe cause some small bubbles on the surface - Heat gun: Take few second and you will be able to sculpt the material but be careful to don't over heat the surface too much - Hot water: this method is great but make it more difficult to localize the heat in only one part of the model and can take a good amount of time before you can sculpt the model. I personally really liked work on this project at work! You can check too this short video that I made to give more information about this filament. I'm happy to reply to any question about this Filaments! I will try to be active on this post.
  21. DRIPrinter

    PVA help

    Hello! Im having some difficulties printing with PVA, specifically using it as a support when printing PLA. I keep my spool in a locked ziploc bag with two small bags of silica gel: I tried a small test print only out of PVA before trying dual PVA/PLA and it turned out all right: However the print with PVA support looks very brittle and it seems as if the two materials aren't adhering to each other very well (to me at least): With the dissolved PVA and the removed Brim it looks like this: Any advice to improve the print quality? This is what it was supposed to look like (on Cura):
  22. bigmodels

    architectural facade details

    After some trial and error with sizes I think I have come up with what works best for me with building details on the UM3. Attached a couple photos of before and after to show the end result. For vertical extrusions out from the face of the building I use 0.6mm width due to my nozzle size, for internal thin cuts that indent into the model I use 0.4mm width and for horizontal indentations and extrusions I use a height of 0.2mm. Windows I usually cut in 0.5mm with a 0.6mm offset to show the window frames when possible and for the thin elements I extrude or cut in 0.2mm just to show the facade panels details, this 0.2mm just shows enough of a detail to make it readable. Sometimes in the models I can't show all the horizontal elements due to the 0.6mm size but am able to capture enough detail for a solid representation of the facade. This model was in 1:500 scale and took a solid 3 days to print. I am using Form Futura atlas support in a polybox, which has never given me any issues and standard Ultimaker PVA settings. The balconies and verandah were printed separately. Hope this all makes sense. If anyone out there has any tweaks so I can add more detail, I would love to hear it.
  23. Hi, my Y-axis rod shifts its position after a few prints and many times just falls of while printing. I have changed the clips in which the rod fits as well. I have 2 machines, one um2+ extended and 2 um3's. This issue happens with both the um3's. Don't know what is causing it. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  24. Hi Everyone. I wanted to share a little python script I wrote for making time lapse videos with the onboard camera on the Ultimaker 3. Here is an example from a rather messy print I just did. Get it on GitHub. There's probably a lot of generic webcam tools for doing this already, but this one is nice because it doesn't start taking pictures until the printer begins printing, and it stops once the print is completed. The script requires Python 3 and FFmpeg. Usage $ ./timelapse.py HOST DELAY OUTFILE HOST is the IP address of your Ultimaker 3. You can find this through the menu by going to System > Network > Connection Status. DELAY is the time between snapshots in seconds. You'll probably want to figure this out based on how long your print will take and how long you want the video to be. For example, if I want a 10 second video at 30 fps, that will be 300 frames. If the print will take five hours, then 5 hours / 300 frames = 60 seconds between frames. OUTFILE is the name of the video file you want to make. It will be encoded using H.264 at 30 FPS. You can choose any container format you want, but I recommend either .mkv or .mp4.
  25. Hello! I've just started trying to print with PVA, at first supports on some PLA prints but seeing as that didn't work, I've been trying to print some PVA-only small test prints to see if I could solve my problem. For the two prints in the photo, I used Cura recommended settings, and I? was hoping for some expert advice on what is wrong and what settings I should use. Thank you!!

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!