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Found 697 results

  1. Hallo zusammen, ich bin neu hier und habe eine Frage an euch. Ich habe bereits einige Modelle gedruckt, jedoch habe ich immer wieder das Problem, dass die Stützstruktur aus PVA sehr bescheiden aussieht und teilweise garnicht mehr gedruckt wird. Um diesem Problem entgegenzuwirken, habe ich mir die eSun Box zur Trocknung und Lagerung des Materials besorgt und die Einstellungen in Cura angepasst. Wie im Anhang zu sehen ist, hat der Druck ca. die ersten 10 Stunden ganz gut funktioniert, anschließend aber komplett versagt. Der Extruder bewegt das Material beim Düsenwechsel, also hat sich dieser nicht ins Material "gefräst". Was sind mögliche Ursachen für das schlechte Ergebnis? Kann der PrintCore defekt sein? Wenn ja, wie prüfe ich dies? Oder kann die Restfeuchtigkeit im Material trotz langer Trocknungszeit noch zu hoch sein? Für den Fall, dass meine Einstellungen schuld sind, lade ich die Datei auch nochmal hoch. Ich hoffe wir finden eine Lösung ! Beste Grüße Hendrik UM3_Flaschenhalter Ergometer.3mf
  2. Hallo! Besitze den Ultimaker 3, neueste Firmware und aktuellstes CURA installiert. Bis heute früh hat es keine Probleme gegeben. Allerdings werden plötzlich Druckaufträge nicht mehr "angenommen" . Die Verbindung steht, auch die camera funktioniert, bei den print jobs stehe auch "verfügbar". Druckauftrag wird über Netzwerk gesendet, nach einigen Sekunden Fehlermeldung "Druckauftrag kann nicht gesendet werden" bzw. mehrere Versuche fehlgeschlagen...beim Druckauftrag über USB-Stick passiert gar nichts. Neustart aller Geräte brachts nichts, auch Neuinstallation firmware etc. nicht. Weiß jemand Rat? Bitte, Danke! 🙂 Ergänzung: habe gerade einen anderen Auftrag versucht, dieser scheint zu funktionieren.... nochmals Modell exportiert, das problem scheint hier gelegen zu haben....thema erledigt... Danke fürs mitlesen...:)
  3. Hi! I have a two material object. One material is used as a text layer and needs to be printed first in the first layer. Cura always starts with the first extruder. So if I invert the materials the text layer would be printed second. I could physically change the filaments but that is inconvinient. How can I tell Cura to start with the second extruder? Thanks!
  4. I have used HIPS as a support material in the past with my Makerbot Is their a profile to use HIPS with the S3 Thanks Dale
  5. I'm trying to remove the bowden tube from the extruder head in order to fix a clogged nozzle but the tube won't come out. I've pulled off the small horshoe shaped piece and im pushing down the piece it was attached to but it won't pull out. I'm applying quite a bit of force that im becoming concerned. Is there any thing im missing or some tip to getting it out?
  6. Hey, We have just upgraded our Ultimaker 3 to 5.2.11 Firmware and we are using Cura 4.1. When we try to connect to the Cloud through Cura connect it stays on the 'trying to connect' screen for ages and does nothing else until we cancel (I have waited for over 30 mins). We have a port ope so we can view the camera stream from offsite over a VPN and so was wondering if anyone else has had issues or know of any reason why this or our Firewall could cause a problem. I'm happy to provide further details if you want or need them. Thanks Adam
  7. I want to connect the Ultimaker 3 to our LAN at work, however we use static IP addresses only - the server doesn't use DHCP, and there is no WiFi available (for security reasons). Is it possible to configure the IP address, Subnet mask, and Gateway info on the Ultimaker 3 manually?
  8. Hi, Is it possible to set a password to protect accessing the printers over the network? We've just recently connected ours to the network to allow remote monitoring, but I don't want anybody on site being able to connect and potentially print/watch prints. Thanks,
  9. So i need to print a couple of lines in a structure like this: The single lines should be a different .stl file I have been told. And I already have a geometry. The problem comes when loading into Cura. Cura either says the file is too small. As i am printing the vertical lines in surface mode to make sure there is only one pass. This problem i have sort of fixed by making these bigger geometries. However now everytime cura tries to slice this a lot of beams fall away. This happens very irrigularly. I hope some of you guys can help. These are the models if i can load them into cura. This still wont be seen in the slicing.
  10. Hello UM community. Recently I have been stumbling upon some failed prints which were poorle adhered to the build plate. On closer expection it appears as if there was under extrusion on the first layer only. Assuming this was not a hardware issue I dove a bit into cura and found the following interesting result: I tried slicing a tube which requires a good surface finish on all its sides. at a 30 degree angle I figured I'd get decent sides while maintaining stability over the entire height due to supporting structue. The position: Slicing the model solo, which virtually does not touch the ground. The initial layer height appears to be ignored by cura and set to the layer height 0.15: When I add a flat model to the mix, suddenly the initial layer height is turned up to the intended value 0.3: Now this in itself would not be much of a problem. However the Ultimaker itself will raise up to 0.3mm on the first layer regardless of the sliced layer thickness. The result is about 50% underextrusion in the first scenario . I am quite sure that this is what is happening. I tested this by powering off the UM3 on the first layer and attempting to then manually place 0.1 0.15 0.2 0.25 and 0.3 mm layers under the nozzle. The 0.25 was almost free moving while the 0.3 got significant resistance. Increasing the material flow for the first layer by a factor 2 also solved the problem in the first scenario, further confirming my measurement and suspision. Is anyone else able to reproduce this result? If so is this a bug in Cura or am I incorrectly understanding the slicer? Any thoughts on the matter and how to tackle it would be helpfull as well.Manually checking the first layer thickness and adjusting the Initial layer flow is not realy managable with the amount of people that use the UM3 through the que.
  11. Crystalvalen

    Fox Head

    Version 1.0.0

    1 download

    This is the first 3D model I ever printed and I was and am very proud of it. A few months ago, I started working in a university library makerspace. I had never worked with or used 3D printers before, so I felt a little in over my head. In the week before I began, I brushed up on research about what makes a good 3D model, how to sculpt objects, etc. I ended up downloading a sculpting app called Forger on my iPad and spent about six hours one afternoon shaping a sphere into the shape of this fox head over many iterations. After a while, I got the hang of it and it felt conceptually just like molding clay in "the real world." On my second day of training when my supervisor showed me how to use Cura, I sliced and printed the .obj out of PLA on one of our UM3's. It took just about 4 hours at a 1.0mm layer height, if I remember correctly. It is still one of my proudest creations out of all of the things I've made here with the 3D printers, laser cutters, vinyl cutter/plotters, etc. In a small way, I think that experienced ruined TinkerCad for me, since I had already poured so much effort into learning sculpting softwares first. I love showing TinkerCad to students who are just starting out, but I often get frustrated with its limitations. I'd love to graduate to Blender eventually, but there's so much going on and it's a bit overwhelming to me still. Right now on the computer, I stick to using Meshmixer, which is somewhere in the middle, like a more robust version of what I was using on the iPad. If anyone is interested in sculpting their own organic models, I highly recommend checking it out.
  12. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  13. Hi My printer (UM3) have problems with communication with the print head. I often got ER18 with the text "There is a communication error with the print head" It often occurs when the print is finished and the print head i "homing" to the start position. It´s also occurs after a (by me) aborted print - also when the print head is homing. When I have dismounted/mounted the print heads, I often can print again. Maybe has the ER18-problem started after I in this week updated the firmware, but I´m not sure. What to do? Any suggestions? /KP
  14. Hi, What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.
  15. I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
  16. Hi guys, I am wondering if there is any way I can change the settings for a print for just one layer. I would like to not print an inner wall for just one layer. Any help would be appreciated.
  17. Hey guys! I am quite new to the Ultimaker and the community. A few years ago I had a different (selfbuilt) 3D printer, but things got very frustrating, so I paused until I bought myself an Ultimaker 3, two days ago. Yesterday I did the whole setup and everything went well and worked perfectly fine. In the evening I did a Firmware Update and shut the printer down afterwards. After shutting everything down for the night, I tried to print today and noticed, that the printer was not showing in Cura anymore. So I checked the network settings on the printer and noticed that the printer was not connected to WiFi anymore. Alright, so I did the whole procedure of connectign the printer again, but it always failed. After I enter the WiFi Password (on several devices by now), the printer states that it tries to connect to the network. This message is shown for a fair amount of time, until I get the message, that the connection failed. I also tried to restart my WLAN router and the printer. In the end I also reset the printer to factory settings as it was suggested in several threads, but nothing helped yet. I did not change anything else about my local network, so this leaves me pretty help- and clueless on what to do next 😞 Does anybody maybe know this issue and can help me? Best wishes Steve
  18. Dear all, today I ran auto leveling after a long time of printing without problems. I did this routinely, not because anything had failed before. The process completed without any errors and I started a print. It turns out the printhead is now too close to the bed, sometimes even scratching on the glass, ripping the print off. It also looks like the level is different on front and back of the build plate. I tried auto leveling a few times which all went through fine, but the result stayed the same. Then I removed both print heads, put hem back in, performed manual leveling, and after that auto leveling again. Same result. What can I do? Thank you. Best Christian
  19. I bought a second hand ultimaker 3 extended and noticed it has some ringing or inconsistencies in the y axis. The wall along the x axis looks smooth, but the wall along the y axis looks really rough. Shiny black exaggerates the imperfections, but you can also feel the roughness with your finger and it is visible in other colors. The walls are printed with the default cura profile with a 0.4mm nozzle and 80mm/s speed (30mm/s outer wall speed). Printing slower makes it less pronounced, but even if i print at 20mm/s outer wall speed the y axis looks still worse than the x axis. On my old printer, a wanhao 4x, the outer walls look and feel about as good as the x axis of the ultimaker. Both x and y axis look about the same. It is printed at the same outer wall speed. I suspected it might be a bad Y axis bearing. So i replaced it, and also replaced the rod, just to be sure. Unfortunately nothing changed and the prints looks just as bad as before on the y axis. The ringing or inconsistencies are also clearly visible in this benchy (a part is painted gray). Benchy with rough walls on the y axis, printed in the defualt 0.15mm profile I then printed a bearing from pla, which probably won't last very long. But it did improve the quality of the y axis. It is a lot smoother. Not a great long term solution. Pla bearing and y axis wall with pla bearing Is there something else wrong with my printer or do all ultimaker 3's print this bad on the y axis? Does anyone else has this problem? I attached the test file i used in case anyone wants to test it on their ultimaker 3 (extended). The filament I used is ice pla black but the problem also happens with other filaments. vertical artifacts2.3mf
  20. I print with an enclosure and with pc so it gets a hot build chamber which has promoted my slider block to fatigue, letting loose my X and Y rods. After a second set of failed slider blocks I figured an effective, very easy solution. From the internal boss that holds the spring, I drilled out the internal hole with a 1/16” drill. Then used a very small sheet metal type screw. The head is the mount for a small O ring to suspend the x/y rod! Ensure the screw head does not protrude out too far which could cause interference with machine operation. i hope this helps someone!
  21. I was just installing the UM3. When inserting the second (BB) print core I noticed it comes lower than the first (AA) one. From the few pictures I find on the internet, that seems normal. But I can't say it feels normal. Anyone who can say more about this?
  22. Hi, I'm using a Ultimaker 3 and has a print job running at the moment which I want to abort. Unfortunately as you can see in the attached picture there is no way to abort it. I cannot access the printer at the moment to abort it directly. Does anybody have a suggestion or any idea why it is? It is a restarted print which was aborted once before. Thanks in advance Orlin278
  23. Does anybody have an idea what went wrong here? For some reason part of the object I was trying to print failed to print correctly and I can’t figure out why. As you can see from the picture, the upper part of the object does not really have top, bottom or walls. It’s mainly just some fluffy plastic junk. I’m a complete beginner and this was the second time I tried 3d printing, so maybe there is some obvious thing that I just don’t see yet. I designed the object in Tinkercad, sliced the stl with Cura 4.3. and used Ultimaker 3 in a local library. The material was PLA through 0,4 mm nozzle. I had the wall thickness as 1 mm as well as top/bottom thickness and the layer height was 0,15 mm. The object consists basically of two blocks. Lower block (with three separate small cylinders) is created straight from an svg in Tinkercad. Upper block, which failed to print, is multiple small boxes with rounded corners grouped together with the grouping tool. I did this to make the radius of the corners independent of the length of the side. I also grouped the upper and lower blocks together. I don’t know if this is of any relevance, but the two blocks had different colors in Tinkercad. Here’s a link to the design in Tinkercad: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/iVaISPunbg9/edit?sharecode=4tjiM63O1_z6531hpP3psR9P5ryCa0o86oVnGYGl_J8= Thank you for your help in advance!
  24. I'm having a problem with my second print head not being z-aligned correctly. It seems to be so close to the bed that the first layer (or two?) doesn't really come out. If I do a print with only that head, it can successfully finish and looks normal except the brim is the faintest shadow on the build plate. If I do a print with both heads, eventually it'll do the sweep the plate dance. Pictures attached from print with both heads. Identical model being printed with two different brands of black filament (trying to compare brands), the one on top is the first head and the one on the bottom is the second. Brim is being printed with head 2, support with head 1. In the first two pictures you can see the "ghost" brim from head 2. Images 3 and 4 show difference in extrusion between models that should be at the same printing status/height. And 4 and 5 show the print from the 2nd head detaching and sweeping around. First the head knocks the 2nd model;s support off, and I think that's what screws the rest of the print. These pictures were done after: - cleaning the print head (cold pull) to make sure there was no jam and the filament is feeding correctly - removing the print heads, and comparing them for any obvious differences in height - manually leveling the build plate I'm on firmware v5.2.11.20190503. Oh and the priming blobs look about the same size and etc.
  25. I saw a video from 2017 detailing the insertion of the M142 instruction into a G-code file to modify the Ultimaker 3 LED strips to any wanted RGBW colour. This seems to have been disabled since then. The RepRap wiki states that M150 should work for Marlin flavour (which I think the UM3 uses) but it doesn't seem to. I'm using a Cura-generated G-code file as boilerplate and the rest of the instructions are executed, just not the M142/150 instructions. Any ideas?
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