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Found 563 results

  1. Bonjour, Je souhaiterai arrêter l'impression à une hauteur précis (à partir du nombre de couche par exemple) pour insérer un objet puis ensuite continuer l'impression. L'idée est de mouler une lamelle de verre dans mon impression. Pensez vous que cela soit possible et si oui comment ? Merci d'avance
  2. Hi guys, I have the problem that on long running prints I get underextrusion during the print. I'm using an Ultimaker 3 with standard AA 0.4 nozzles and PLA. At the beginning everything is normal and looks fine, but after some time underextrusion starts till in the end no material is extruded any more. Afterwards I have to clean my nozzle because it is clogged. I already checked the feeder, this is looking fine. I don't think that it is the material as this is not the first time this happens and not only with this material. Also it just happens in long running prints. I also checked the other nozzle, but there i have similar problems. Do anyone has any ideas left? Thanks in advance
  3. Pretty amazing that my $160 printer is trouble free while a Ultimaker 3 Extended, a $4,300 printer, has so many issues. The latest one is the infamous "There is an I2C communication error" few hours into a print. I am attaching the logs which I saved to flash drive but I'm not holding my breath anymore to find a solution. boot-0 boot-1 boot-2
  4. Hi all! Is anyone selling a used Ultimaker 2, 2+ and 3 in the UK? Looking to update my current printer. Cheers!
  5. Bandy

    Printhead freezing at random

    Hello, I'm looking for some help/advice. When using my UM3 the printhead just stops moving in the middle of a print job. The fans on the printhead stay on, the head keeps it's temperature, motors still on, but no movent. The display is still responsive, I can navigate and choose pause/tune/abort, however the hardware does not move. I currently do a reboot to get the printer to initial state. I'm having the problem since a long time (1 year), but I always restarted the job, now I want more reliability to do longer print jobs. It happens quite often, but since I'm an 'occasional' user, I lived with the issue. If I remember correctly, the issue started after a major Cura and firmware update (at that time I didn't realise it would be a repeatable long-lasting problem) Printer firmware: any help/ideas? somebody with similar issues? (Also, is there official support from ultimaker? or only community?)
  6. Dear All, ist it possible to change the cores of ULTIMAKER 3, to print filaments with other diameters rather than the standard ones of 2.85 mm? I am wondering, whether it could be possible to print filaments of e.g.with a diameter of about 1.75 mm. I appreciate any help and suggestions in advance. Cheers
  7. Hi, I'm hoping someone will be able to help me. I've had 4 failed prints in as many days now. I've tightened up the pulleys and the short belts onto the stepper motors. I had luckily printed two alignment clips to ensure that the axis rods were aligned. But the problem is continuing, the slider blocks are not holding the x-axis rod. The rear one pops out mostly, but they're both not adequately holding the rod. It's not loose - just that they can release the rod if it knocked against a building print for example, but the prints are fine - until they stop. There's no evidence of the print head knocking against anything. In Cura I've changed the infill to be 0% and the line number to be 10, to minimise the x-y movements and to fill the interior with just perimeter offsets. This helps to reduce the jerky movements - but it is not solving the problem. I don't want to tape, or otherwise hold the rod in place as I'm concerned that this is the safety mechanism to ensure that the motors are not damaged if the axes are not aligned and forced to print skewed. Can these slider blocks' clasping feature wear out and loosen over time - is this a thing? I've tried to buy the slider blocks and belts from my re-seller, but they're not available in their online shop. TIA.
  8. BarbaraK

    Nivellierung der Druckplatte

    Hallo, kurze Frage ich arbeite mit einem UM3 und habe bisher immer die aktive Nivellierung genutzt. Ist es möglich sich anzeigen zu lassen, wie der Abstand zwischen Druckkopf und Glasplatte ist. Kann man quasi diese Werte auslesen und sich anzeige lassen? Danke
  9. Today, a new stable Ultimaker 3 firmware will become available. SvG is out of the office, so I will do the firmware post this time Firmware 4.3 mainly contains Cura Connect improvements, but also includes a new accessibility feature for the UM3. It is available for download through the menu on your Ultimaker 3 / Ultimaker 3 Extended. Go to ‘System’ => ‘Maintenance’ => ‘Update firmware’ and select ‘Stable version’. You can also follow this guide to install via USB. The blog post is here. As always, let us know your reactions in this thread. The full release notes, including bug fixes, are below: Embedded Mouse accessibility. To give greater accessibility to users with physical disabilities, a wired USB mouse can be hotplugged into the Ultimaker 3 USB port, as an alternative interface to the Ultimaker 3 button. Moving the mouse in X/Y directions is equal to rotating the button, and a left mouse click is equal to a button click. Cura Connect Extended language support. Improved translations for English, Italian, French, Spanish, German, Simplified Chinese, Dutch, Japanese, Korean, Russian, Portuguese, Turkish, and Polish. Due to lack of community support, Finnish has been removed. Optimized JavaScript bundle.js. The size of the JavaScript bundle.js has been reduced to speed up Cura Connect page loading time. Material color and type. Jobs sliced for generic materials are printable on any grouped printer with a matching material type, regardless of brand or color. This brings the behavior in line with Ultimaker Cura. Manage outside jobs. Jobs started from USB, or reprints after an abort are now manageable from the Cura Connect UI, giving the user more control. Pause, resume and abort. Jobs can be paused, resumed or aborted from within the Cura Connect UI, giving the user more control. Custom confirm dialogs. Default JavaScript dialogs have been replaced with a new popup component, which brings the language, look, and feel in line with Ultimaker Cura. Mobile view. The mobile view has been optimized to show clearly on small screens. Firmware version visible. The firmware version of each printer in a group is now visible on the printer details page, offering a centralized overview for users rolling out firmware updates. Bug fixes Updated tooltips. The tooltip content has been updated to fix spelling errors and clarify messages. Prevent group ‘stealing’. New rules have been implemented to prevent problems caused by adding hosts, or printers already in an existing group, to a new group. Recursive printer groups. New rules have been implemented to prevent manually adding a printer to a group that it is already in. Edge browser IP address formatting. Fixed an issue where Edge browser formatted IP addresses as phone numbers. Sticky reservations. Fixed an issue where rescheduling jobs wouldn’t work after "move to top" or "override configuration" operations. Umlauts in file names. Fixed a bug where umlauts in file names caused crashes.
  10. I Have a brand new in the box never opened ultimaker 3 for sale. i have a taz 6 that will tide me over until i can get an s5. for now i need the money : ( asking $3000 shipped . i paid $3495 before the $287 tax (tax was including some other filaments i bought ) so im selling at a $750 discount from what i paid . open to all offers above $2500. need to sell asap. thank you.
  11. Hi guys, there is an error when printing 10% process and pause, and remind me to abort this print. No problem while slicing in Cura. And all my software and firmware are both the latest version of Ultimaker 3. I searched and found that seems no one have the same problem as mine. Is that so? Thank you.
  12. OceaneML

    Biofila Platec

    Bonsoir à tous, Je souhaite imprimer le support Hardcore pour changer les buses de DidierKlein mais il semble que le Biofila Platec n'est plus distribué. Quel autre filament puis-je utiliser à la place ? (résistance à la température de la buse qui est chaude). Merci pour votre aide.
  13. OceaneML

    Profiles pour HardCore 7

    Bonsoir à tous, Je viens d'acquérir un HardCore 7 pour UM3 et je voudrais bien créer des profiles. GR5 avait un "HardCore profile installer" pour CURA 3.0 et 3.1 mais il ne fonctionne plus pour CURA 3.6. Je cherche si possible quelque chose de plus pratique que d'utiliser les Print Core existants en modifiant les données. Merci pour votre aide.
  14. Hi, What's the pitch of the lead screw in the UM3 - is it 8mm? Here's a great video from Filament Friday on the application of the Magic Number for determining the layer height in the Slicer settings. He has loads of other great tutorials too.
  15. This is a project by a group of community members which was also involved in the Mark2 dual extrusion upgrade. More precisely, it's me coming up with an outside the box approach / weird idea for a certain unresolved problem. Smart people like @gr5, @Anders Olsson, @Dim3nsioneer, @rooiejoris throwing in ideas and @tinkergnome who implants the stuff into firmware. My impression of the current state of development when I started this was as follows. There have been filament monitor projects since the beginning of reprap. Only very few made it to some kind of product state, like the one by Aaron Tunell. Manufacturers like Prusa and others recently introduced some kind of filament monitors, with mixed success / reliability issues. The Duet3D guys set their hardware research (laser-based and rotating) on hold because they were experiencing inaccuracies of +/-20%. Well and then there was Ultimaker ... until yesterday with the S5 All these efforts have been or still are struggling to fulfill the most important objective: NO FALSE ALERTS. Otherwise any filament sensor would quickly render itself useless. What we want to achieve Objectives, the obvious part: zero false alerts detect filament runout ("nothing there") detect filament grinding ("nothing/very little moves") Objectives, the challenging part: detect first layer issues (see video below) detect when real flow leaves a certain safe process window and starts to compromise part quality (first, inter layer adhesion will suffer, then classical under extrusion will be visible) and try to counteract, that's where the real fun starts ... Current state of development We chose an encoder and there's a reliably working prototype for an easy to attach external flow sensor, mounted to the entry side of the feeder. Resolution is in the range of 0.015 mm. It's integrated in Tinkerware with a dedicated menu and we (well, he) implemented a gcode command: M591 T0 S1 E0.5000 L0.01695 R35:130 A0.3 P100.00 I leave the parameter interpretation as a little quiz here. Right now I'm working on a modified design which, besides the encoder, doesn't need some parts which cannot be printed and are in the +30€ range to have them manufactured. But most likely some parts will still not be FFF printable. How can I get this? First give us some more time to test and evaluate. If everything works like intended we might proceed like with the Mark2 project. If we should offer this as a product I'd expect a price tag between 70-100 €. And the UM3? That's the BIG question. Like @Daid recently stated their main market is already different. And indeed, has anyone seen any kind of (hardware) upgrade for the UM3 so far? Feeders are the same, mechanically our sensor fits. Electronics, not sure. Ultimaker originally wanted to use a serial interface on the UM3. For the UM2+ we simply connect the sensor's quadrature output signal to free I/O pins, there are enough left (4) for two sensors for a Mark2 dual extrusion UM2. Ultimaker won't do anything to support a sensor on the UM3. Anyway, if a large number of UM3 users would show interest, they might at least not impede a development ...
  16. Please help me How to error There is a problem with theactive level sensor solved?
  17. Hello everyone, I wanted to update the 3D printer. But I mistakenly chose the firmware files from S5 on the USB and the lights were turned off during the update (now it shows the logo all the time and the encoder is green.
  18. Hello To my undestanding the Ultimaker is open source so i hope it is ok i ask this. I am trying to figure out how the interface to the print cores is done. I need to figure this out since i need to test a crazy idea i have. This idea includes having to control the temperature of the hotend. I have bought a spare BB 0.4 mm print core i need to control from a arduino or raspberry pi. I found the schematics for the print head here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/PCB files I am not sure but if i am correct the answer is hidden somewhere here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2118-G Cartridge PCB/Project Outputs for Cartridge PCB/Schematic Prints.PDF and here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/blob/master/PCB files/2012-K Print head PCB/Schematic and layout pdf/Schematic Prints_printhead_2012-K_01.PDF From the latter it looks like it is a standard i2c interface. I am looking at the top right corner where it says hotend 2. From the first - which i assume is the diagram for the print core - i guess the TP1 to TP4 correstponds to the P1 to P4 below in the diagram. 1) is the connection to the temperature sensor i assume 2) is a connection to ground 3) is the positive connection to the heat sensor and the positive connection to the heater 4) is the ??? This doesn't make sence. Is there two heaters or ??? is it possible to have the sda and scl on the same wire (3)? Can you help me?
  19. In the last months I tried several storage solutions for my the print cores, but either they didn't fit or it was not practical. Most storage solutions have the problem, that they are open and dust can easily get into the core which is not good at all. Some days ago I had an idea, to put my print cores in an Ikea Skadis container mounted on my pegboard. Inside this container, I designed a print core holder which is based on @ultiarjan version and holds 3 cores per container. Here are some pictures: The cores are now stored in a safe place, protected from dust and can be easily accessed. Ikea Skadis container: https://www.ikea.com/at/de/p/skadis-behaelter-mit-deckel-weiss-80335909/ @ultiarjan print core holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/core-case-for-ultimaker3-core-s And finally, the redesigned version which fits into the Skadis container: Skadis Print Core.stl
  20. Hi, is there any way to connect OctoPrint to an UltiMaker 3? For some reason, it was decided to not include a USB b-type connector on the back - only the female on the front. I bought a male-to-male cable, hoping that could work, but no joy. I'm no coder, so there's now way I'd be savvy enough to run code or other such workaround - I'm looking for a plug-&-play solution. I've the Pi all set up with OctoPrint and I can see the webcam monitor from the network. I haven't gotten to the point of getting the DNS sync'd my IP address, as I was attempting to get the printer connected first. Thanks a mill.
  21. FrankS

    Einstellungen ABS-Filament?

    Hallo zusammen, gibt es jemanden, der regelmäßig saubere Drucker per ABS herstellen kann? Generell geht es mir nur um die letzte Schicht. Diese bekomme ich einfach nicht glatt und somit ästhetisch schön hin. Mit PLA und den Standard-Einstellungen von Cura sowie der Option "Glätten" bekomme ich eine saubere Oberfläche. Bei ABS funktioniert das einfach nicht. Glätten verschlimmert es noch. Für mich sieht es so aus, als ob die Düse an der Oberfläche kratzt. Ändere ich die Einstellungen des Lüfters (0% - 50% - 100%), so wird dieser Effekt verstärkt oder abgeschwächt. Beste Ergebnisse (aber immer noch schlecht bei 40% Lüfter). Der UM3 steht abgeschottet in seiner Vitrine. Die Nivellierung des Druckbetts habe ich sauber durchgeführt. Änderungen an den Temperatur-Einstellungen wurden noch nicht durchgeführt. Die Fehler sind übrigens immer an der gleichen Stelle. Könnt Ihr mir Einstellungen empfehlen? Grüße, Frank
  22. I have seen this problem more less on my previous objects, but didn't gave them too much attention. Last week I found a play at one of the axles and did the whole process of loosen all pulleys, squared the axles during the retightening of the pulleys and printed a cube afterwards. Everything seemed fine. But the test object (cube) was not the best test for this specific problem below. Yesterday I printed a simple model and found again a very strange "misalignment" of the layer, after the print direction (clockwise, counter-clockwise) is changing. So I understand why this happens, because of the change in the direction, something will be misaligned a little bit (backlash) but I have no more idea how to fix it. The printer (UM3) is 2 months old, I checked the tension of the long belts, seems ok for me, all 4 belt have the same tension. I opened all pulleys, and squared the axles with the tool found on YouMagine. I loosened the stepper motors and retightened them. Both short belts have the same tension. I checked if there is some friction when moving the head around and lubricated the axles a little bit. I also checked if I can move the nozzle when touching it, to see if there is a play or some problem, but nothing. I have this issue on other models, with a hole in it for example as well. (there is currently also another thread with someone else with the same problem, but I don't want to hijack his thread) So every time, when there is something in the model, a hole, a step, or whatever, and the print direction is changing to another direction, I get these results. Here are two pictures of the model and I marked the problems. There are other things as well on this model and due the zoom of the picture it looks more worse than it is actually. This is printed with Cura defaults "Fast" 0.2 layer height, speed 70mm/sec: This is printed with Cura default "Normal" 0.15 layer height, speed 40mm/sec: So reducing speed helps a little bit, but not too much. Is there anything else I can do on the hardware side? I did, to be on the safe side, the whole process again with the pulleys and the axles, but I could not check the result yet. Printing slower and same speed for all speed values, will help, I am sure, but to get rid completely I assume I have print with 20mm/sec or less. Do you have any other advise for this problem. Thanks!
  23. Hi guys, my 2-month-old Ultimaker has just killed itself by extruding tons of polycarbonate above the rubber seal into the chamber that holds the two extruders. Looks like this: https://imgur.com/a/Prj3M https://imgur.com/a/evaKv https://imgur.com/a/4VZli How can I fix this?? And how can I prevent it in the future? Details on what happened: -The print went fine for the first 8 layers, then I left it. It was going to take 15 hours to complete -What remained of the print showed a bit of warpage up from the brim, perhaps causing it to separate from the brim. Also, a few layers were shifted, so may be it got knocked off the brim from this layer shift. -What remained of the "print" had come clean off the bed and fallen to the bottom of the printer. -And, as you can see, the printer extruded so much polycarbonate into its chamber that it forced the door open, pushing the door into the print bed so hard that the y axis rod got forced out of its plastic holders! ;'( Details on print settings: -Printed polycarbonate filament at 275°C in a HardCore Solex, and Airwolf Hydrofill support material (great stuff BTW) in a BB 0.4mm. I'd made small parts with this combination before and was really impressed with the quality. -I'd never changed the nozzle on the Solex, so it's not like I didnt' tighten it down enough and let plastic leak past the nozzle or something. -Bed was at 115°C, and I used the plastic front door from the "advanced printing kit" (super overpriced BTW :(). Didn't cover the top of the printer, though maybe I should have. -I used blue PEI coating from FlashForge printers over glass, and the polycarbonate raft stuck super well to that. -I used a raft with 0mm airgap and 0mm z overlap after first layer for maximum adhesion between support and brim. -There was a 0mm z gap between dissolvable support and polycarbonate. The support and printed objects stuck super well. (Support to raft: not so much, despite having a 0mm gap. WTF?). -I printed with auto-level on, and anyways the first 8 layers were done perfectly, so there shouldn't have been any problems with the lifting mechanism for the support head. -Layer height 0.15mm, print speed 40mm/s
  24. BarbaraK

    SUPPORT: Cura Software

    Hallo zusammen, ich habe in Fusion 360 einen Kreis, mit einer Aussparung konstruiert und diesen dann als STL - Datei exportiert. Sobald ich die STL dann in Cura 3.6. einfüge, erkennt Cura die Aussparung nicht mehr und füllt den kompletten Kreis. Hat jemand einen Tipp was man einstellen kann? (Ich arbeite mit einem Mac) Ich habe Bilder hochgeladen zum Verständnis. Vielen Dank schonmal & viele Grüße, Barbara
  25. Hi there, I'm Matt and I have been writing about experiments in grayscale printing on the Ultimaker 3. This is a technique created by Tim Kuipers. In a nutshell, grayscale 3D printing allows you to print items in two colors, rather than monochrome. This gives an item enhanced depth, definition, and realism when compared to a monochrome print. Here's an example of what can be achieved: You can read a full article about it here. See all of Tim's designs here. At the time of writing, grayscale printing is not integrated into a stable version of Cura. However, it is possible to preview this feature. Please note: this feature is in a very early experimental stage and only intended for advanced users! 1. Download the CuraEngine backend configured to print in grayscale. 2. Compile the C++ code and run "CuraEngine" directly from the command line. Note: Currently there is no GUI. 3. Download a textured input model: Crushed can (Designed by Beerend Groot) https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/37649-grayscale-can-linear-halftoning Kuipers bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/textured-bust Blockade bust https://www.youmagine.com/designs/blockade-textured Connecting rod https://www.youmagine.com/designs/connecting-rod-textured 4. Print! Please share your reactions/trials in this thread!

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