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Found 168 results

  1. I was printing a somewhat complex and tall (1:5 aspect ratio) part (ABS) with several locations of overhang inside and outside the model, and as a result had to print supports (PVA). I set the minimum overhang angle to 15 degrees, but when I printed it, the model was encased in supports along sheer sides that don't require supports. To further illustrate what the slicer is doing, I have another example: I had to print some small parts and a large part, so I lumped them all together on the build plate for a neat overnight print. I had supports on for the benefit of the large part, the small parts have 0 locations of overhang. Yet the sides of the small parts were surrounded by support material (this time Breakaway). This is not only wasteful, but it also scars the sides of the part, why does the slicer construct these supports, and what settings could change this?
  2. 😭My printer was okay when I left it to print last night, even went through build plate calibration okay and I woke up to find that not only is the build plate undone but I have dried up filament stuck on the print head... The printer is 1 month and 5days old. 😭 Help! I am currently trying to unclogging it using a heatgun to melt the hardened filament. Unfortunately the bottom part of the print head has come off. I am able to open the flap now... 😞 I tried to melt the filament stuck on the printcore but it is too dense I am afraid of doing more damage. I was only able to melt a tiny bit. This is going to be a long wait until the UK customer service guy arrive in the office.... 😞 😞
  3. Hello guys, i have the following problems with the Ultimaker 3 Extended. What works: I printed smaller objects (L: 50 mm; W: 50 mm; H: 70 mm) without any problems. A slightly bigger object (L: 140 mm, W: 20 mm; H: 80 mm) was also printed without problems. The printing quality and accuracy was amazing. What doesn't work: But the thing i always have to do beforehand is to move the object as far to the front as possible, because the adhesion on the back of the printing bed was not very good. We are using the BuildTakFlexPlate System for a better adhesion and tried to level the bed to counter that problems. But still if you print a bigger object/ move the object to the rear we never have satisfying printjobs. Current Settings: The printer is enclosed in a case which should benefit maintaining the temperature. The settings are the following: Pictures of not working prints: This is one print i had to stop because the printer started doing weird stuff. This print kind of worked (i guess), there is still a lot of warping and weird differences in the texture of the object What did i try?: - Level the bed again and again - Heating up the bed beforehand - Turning down the overall bed temperature after the first few layers I hope you guys can point me in the right direction :) Thanks in advance for your answers.
  4. We upgraded Cura and Ultimaker firmware to latest version recently (Cura version 3.4.1, Ultimaker 3 Extended firmware release from 29.5.18) Since then, printing a model with PLA using PVA as support material results in a layer shift between first and second layer. See attached pictures, model is not printed with a brim, the single layer at one site is shifted but part of the model.
  5. Brulti

    Loss of accuracy.

    Hello everyone, I just did maintenance on my printer (grease, check axes, belt tension and so on) and I ran a couple test prints to compare with the one I did the last time, in June, and there seems to be a slight problem: as you can see in the picture below, the Z on top of the black cube on right cube is clear and has very sharp corners. This cube was printed in June after my previous maintenance. The orange cube and the black one on the left were printed today and the Z is much less defined. I had the same problem before doing the maintenance, as I was testing my 0.6 solex hardcore. The cubes in the pictures have been printed a standard 0.4 UM printcore. The ones printed with the solex 0.6 hardcore show the same problem, but worst, I guess because the diameter of the printhead is bigger. I'm not too sure what is causing this or how to solve it, any help from the community would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  6. So this is probably the 6th time now I've tried to print a 20+ hour job and for various reasons, I can never get it to finish. (Improper spooling, print core jam, etc etc.) The latest problem that I can't figure out is that I watch it all day and it's printing fine. I come in the next morning and the printer is still whirring away, but the printcore is a solid 6 - 8 inches above the bed and no material is coming out. It looks like the printhead "thinks" its still printing by it's movement patterns (also evidenced by the fact that the bed has continued to move down), but it has long since stopped feeding material. In both cases so far there's no break in the material on the spool, no clogs in the printhead. If I immediately restart the job, it starts printing again with NO issue (albeit back at minute 1 of the 20+ hour job). Any ideas? Short of me camping out in front of the printer to monitor it for 20 hours straight?
  7. Hey there. I got great help last time, so hopefully will do so again. 🙂 I'm printing lots of stuff on ABS with PVA support and have noticed, particularly on jobs where i DO generate support, that stuff is already cracking. I can take pics if needed, but don't really know how else to explain it. It's a completely flat surface with a hairline fracture in it. And there are several like it on each side of the object. And then yesterday we were printing a plane for another project and as it was printing the support, the support was coming up off the bed as it got thicker, which then made that side of the tail curve upward when it should have been flat. Is there something special to using the PVA support and / or ABS? I'm selecting those materials from the menu when I load them. The PVA is ultimaker branded, but the ABS is an off brand but has been fine on jobs without support. Thanks.
  8. Hallo allemaal, Ik heb hulp nodig in ""eenvoudige"" (ik weet dat er geen eenvoudige software zijn vandaar tussenhaakjes) software om 2 kleuren te printen. Belangrijk nieuws, ik ben een beginner weet niks van modelleren of evt 3D software. Het is mij gelukt om via TinkerCAD een eenvoudige dobbelsteen te printen. Maar nu wil ik in 2 kleuren printen. Bijvoorbeeld de cijfers die op de dobbelsteen staan een witte kleur geven en de dobbelsteen zelf rood. Hoe kan ik het beste uitvoeren en met welke software wat ""eenvoudig"" is. Ik heb gelezen als men 2 kleuren wil printen dat je dan 2 STL bestanden nodig hebt, dus 2 keer printen. Maar dan is er een software nodig om te checken dat deze 2 bestanden ook werkelijk op elkaar passen of in elkaar. Welke software kunnen jullie mij het beste aanraden? Waarbij ik gemakkelijk kan leren en/of tutorials volgen.
  9. Hi everyone, I have a problem with the printing of PP: at some point during the printing, the material inflow or something stops, resulting in frayed endings. This sometimes happens at the beginning of a print (see picture 1 and 2) or when the print is more at the end (picture 3). I have tried to solve this by changing the printing temperature, the printing speed, and the layer height, but it doesn't work. Does anyone know some more actions I can try? Thanks in advance!
  10. SHORT: Problems using orientations and locations of the filaments spools other that the original*. LONG: We had a client with a feeder grinding filament on long prints (over 6hs) to the point of no extrusion after a while. After checking almost everything possible: drivers, hobbed bolt, bowden tube, PCBs of printhead and motherboard, printcore, etc, we detected a significant wear over the lever of the feeders (Image wear_1 & wear_2). Our hypothesys was that the filament had been feeded in the wrong orientation and it was later validated with the client (image wrong_orientation). The spools were mounted perpendicular to the original orientation of the spool holder. So far we swaped the levers (right to left and so) and the printer is working fine again but the proper solution would be to replace the damaged part and ensure that the Filament is feeded properly from now on.
  11. Ultimaker 3 extended nozzle cover part broke off. Need help fixing it. Hello so my UM3 extended was printing just fine until the nozzle cover broke off and the plastic or rubber bit on the inside that holds nozzles split in two. I have gotten the cover back on but the nozzles have been having trouble with getting stuck or not retracting properly due to the damaged cover. Is there any way I can fix this? Or get replacement parts? Thank you for your time .
  12. I am having a consistent issues with my feeder grinding filament rather than feeding. What does this grinding/feeding issue look like? When the filament gets stuck at the extruder head or flattened by the feeder axis, the toothed wheel grinds a semi-circle into the filament. See here. This is occurring nigh-constantly on Feeder 1 of my machine. It always occurs during the same point of the cycle: about two layers in, the surface of the print begins to look sputtered as it is failing. Then nothing comes out. The device in question is an Ultimaker 3 Extended with up-to-date firmware. I am running PLA to an AA core. The issues have occurred across multiple brands of filament. I doubt there are any humidity issues; brand new filament has problems too. To date I have attempted the following to fix the issue: Hot/cold pull of AA print core (the core pulls cleanly, so I doubt it is clogged). Feeder spring tension adjustment. Info at the bottom of this page. (When the gauge is at the top of the meter on the side of the feeder, it exhibits the issues described above at ~layer 2. When it is below that point, it doesn't feed anything from the beginning.) Use of compressed air duster to clean ground PLA material from feeder. Info at the middle of this page. What's going on here? Is there something I have not tried to remedy this? Does anyone have a tensiometer which can be used to check the force applied by the spring of a working feeder? Should I contact the distributor at this point to request help? Thanks for your assistance. I'd be happy to provide additional info upon request.
  13. Bonsoir à tous, J'ai acquis récemment une buse Hardcore Solex de 0.6mm et mes premiers essais sont assez décevants car toutes mes impressions souffrent d'underextrusion. J'ai essayé d'imprimer une boite en 0.3mm d'épaisseur de couche avec du PLA Blanc d'UM. J'ai bien suivi les indications données, ainsi que les conseils sur ce forum: Layer Height à 0.3mm, Layer Width à 0.55 ou 0.6 suivant mes test, et c'est tout. Mais à chaque fois, après avoir fait les bords, le remplissage du premier layer montre très vite des signes d'underextrusion. Et ça empire si je laisse l'impression se poursuivre. J'ai bien nettoyé mon imprimante: le feeder à été démonté et nettoyé avec un pinceau et de l'air pour enlever toutes les particules, les tubes bowden avec un petit bout de papier pour être sur que rien n'obstrue le passage du filament, mais rien n'y fait. Ma bobine de PLA Blanc est pratiquement neuve, et je la conserve dans une boite hermétique avec un absorbeur d'humidité, le taux d'humidité dans la boite est aux alentours de 25%. J'ai déjà imprimé d'autres objets avec cette bobine en normal (profile 0.2mm avec le printcore 0.4mm) sans avoir de l'underextrusion. Donc, je ne comprends pas vraiment d'où peut venir le problème... Si quelqu'un à une idée ou des conseils sur un paramètre à vérifier ou à changer pour corriger mon soucis, je suis preneur. Merci d'avance. P.S.: J'ai relancé un test avec un printcore 0.4mm et un Layer Height en 0.3, en ralentissant la vitesse d'impression pour garder le même débit, je verrais d'ici demain matin ce que ça donne.
  14. Hey, so question - Polylactic acid is biodegradable and biocompatible, and is able to be used on Ultimaker printers. I was wondering whether there were other materials that were available such as polycaprolactone and whether Ultimaker printers can be adapted for other materials other than the ones that are sold.
  15. So this started with Lift Switch Issues and I think I ended up just finding a stop gap solution for that, but now I'm having more problems. Here's where things started: So now when I try to print, or seemingly randomly when it sends itself home, I'm getting LOTS of grinding noises once it gets to the corner and occassionally the printer faults to ultimaker.com/ER17 and my only option is turn power cycle the printer. I've tried everything on that page (both switches make the clicking sound, I can press either switch during the "home" action and it will no longer travel in the associated direction). The two things that I have done that aren't normal, are in the Limit Switch Test, I can't get the Y box to ever be checked. I previously got around this by offsetting Y by 0.4 to fix the Lift Switch problem (which is still set to 0.4 and it's the only way I can get the lift switch to raise and lower properly), but the box never checked in the Test, even after the offset. in the previous thread, both "end stops" and "set screws" were mentioned and I'm not sure how to look at either one. I briefly looked at the end of the workday today and the only screws I think I see on the axis rods are literally ON the rod, not on the end, but rotating around the side as the axis moves, but near the gear on each end. Is this what I'm supposed to tighten? I didn't have a bit that was small enough, but should be able to find one tomorrow. Let me know if there's any information I left out and thank you for any help you can provide!
  16. dmboston

    UM3E Feeder Problem

    Hey folks! I realize this is something of a common problem, I'm hoping I've got a little twist on it. So sometime in the last couple weeks I noticed our printer (a UM3E) started randomly failing prints by stopping extruding. I looked at the filament and found a nice little divot ground into it from the drive gear. Instantly thought "oh, my feeder tension must be off," so I started playing with it, but never fixed the problem. So I started looking at other things: cleaned the hot end who knows how many times, switched out the bowden tubes, cleaned the feeder assembly, etc. Checked everything on the second extruder, which worked just fine. Finally noticed that there was a channel worn in the side of the outlet on the feeder housing: Extruder 1 And for comparison: Extruder 2 Don't know if this might be the problem. I'm thinking the filament is having a problem staying centered on the drive gear and it's catching on either the housing or the bowden tube, which gets it hung up long enough to chew the divot in the filament. Anyways, I'm at something of my wits' end trying to diagnose this, definitely spent the better part of a week trying different things. Would love to hear if someone's had a similar problem, how they fixed it, or anything else I might try to solve the problem. Have people printed a new housing? Made modifications to the UM3 feeder? Thanks!
  17. Ghene

    Cheeky Vase

    New make which will be hitting my shops today. Already got a couple of pre-orders 😁 Im still trying to finish up the male version without it looking ludicrous. 😂🤗
  18. I can't understand how to reduce the violence with which UM3 prints the PVA support... In the last print, where I used the recommended settings for PVA+PLA prints at T-2days for the model to finish (6 days) the bed have been catapulted out from its holding springs. On top of that the magnetic pins holding the cooling fan of the print head opened down and started scratching against the print bed. The only way I found to prevent this is not to use the "print support" option, but rather run a 2-materials print where I draw the support myself... Also it seems that I cannot stop the print remotely anymore with the latest version of cura (3.3.1) which would be something extremely handy in these situations
  19. Hi, I have many printing problem with my Ultimaker 3extended since few weeks. Sometime the external skin doesnt print, the infill is inconsistent. I use simplify3d and cura and try many settings. my filament is grey PLA with 2.72 mm diameter (economical filament, but I use a lot of filament, 8 to 12 kg per month), i try from 100% to 120% print speed and temprature from 220 to 240 for extruder. Print bed is 70 C. The filament seem to slip sometime. And the printcore 2 is unavailable because it is stuck with material. I'm unabe to clean after many hours of hot and cold pull. Do you have any idea? I think my printcores are scrap! Thank for all your advice. the last picture is my biggest print (in five parts) and I need to work on precision.... It's not glue perfectly... Yves
  20. cjryker06

    UM3 Safety Shutdown?

    Does anyone know of any safety features that engage on UM printers if they detect a problem? In my situation I believe it to be the X / Y stepper motors overheating. The problem: printer stops printing after about 30 minutes,lights go off, all heaters shutoff, display shows no issue for several minutes then shows X / Y motors stuck or switch broke (ER17) with the print head in the middle of the bed A little insight to my situation: 1. problem didn't exist prior to today when I updated firmware (does firmware have a way of knowing motor temps?) 2. stepper motors are getting hot enough to the tough that it is very uncomfortable to keep your hand on them (too much voltage?) 3. takes roughly the same amount of time for the shutdown to occur when trying to print the same part twice (time for motors to overheat?) 4. UM3E roughly 6 months old My first thoughts are safety shutdown. I don't feel it would be an improper voltage setting from the factory that took almost 6 months to appear, nor a thermal runaway issue considering it indicates a movement problem. Any help would be great.
  21. kmanstudios

    Pineapple Lamp body

    This is a lamp I designed almost 2 years ago in anticipation of doing 3D prints. I just got around to printing it. And it kicked my arse from here to there. It was just one of those prints that did not want to play nice, but, I got it out and that makes me happy.... 🙂
  22. So I'm having trouble with the 2nd core printhead being down when it should be up and vice versa. I've noticed that the print heads are moving to the switching bay and moving like it should be flicking the switch, but it's literally missing the hole by about 1/8th of an inch most times. When I try to calibrate the lift switch, the switch is raised per the first step and then I move the printhead so the switch is in the hole in the bay and then press continue. The printer then attempt to flick the switch itself AND MISSES. Sometimes it's by 1/8th of an inch, but I've also had it go clear to the front of the right side and attempt the flicking motion. After a restart SOMETIMES it will do it right, but then when it goes to print, it "forgets" that position and fails again. I can get it to print if I manually flip the switch as necessary (haven't printed anything off of both cores yet, but concerned what will happen when I need to do that). Can go take a video if needed, but I think I explained it pretty well. 🙂
  23. KiloByte

    Issue with Cura 3.3.1

    Hello Everyone, I have an Ultimaker 3 Extended. I recently upgraded from Cura 3.2.0 to Cura 3.3.1. I sliced one model in Cura 3.3.1, and saved the gcode on USB. When i tried to print it on my UM3E, I received an error message that " This print job is not suitable for this printer. Go to ultimaker.com/ER26" and after i clicked the continue option i received the message "An error occurred while processing this print job. Line nr =13." I aborted the print and went to ultimaker.com/ER26 page, as suggested by the printer, but there was not any mismatch in the printer, Print cores or Materials. I sliced different model, just to make sure, it was not because of the model, but i got same error message. After that i sliced both models with Cura 3.2.0, with same profile, and settings i used in Cura 3.3.1. And this time i received no error on the printer, it printed without any problem. I have attached, photos of error messages, and also gcode file i sliced in Cura 3.3.1, if it be of any help. Please tell me if you know what can be possibly wrong? UM3E_Clip1_V12.gcode
  24. Hi folks, This may seem like a stupid question, but how do you change the time on the UM3E? I've started pulling API data from the printer (http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/api/v1/print_job) to monitor the status so I can plan when the next job can be put into the machine The "datetime_started" is 1 hour out against local time (Edinburgh) I'm not sure if it's not updated to British Summer Time (I use the word Summer loosely ) or it syncs with a time server in Europe. Any help would be great. Cheers Jamie
  25. The text on the XY calibration sheet (both the old V1.5 version packed with my UM3 and the new V1.9 version that's for the S5 as well) does a pretty good job of explaining the operation clearly. But I would say that the graphic showing you how to select a line actually confuses things again. The problem is that the difference in spacing between the Material 1 and Material 2 lines is much greater on the graphic than it is on an actual calibration print. So before I tried calibrating the real printer, when I looked at the graphic that was trying to show me 'See, choose +15 because that's perfectly lined up; don't pick -3 because that's off', my response was "Okay, but why wouldn't I choose -6? That's perfectly lined up too. Am I missing something? Would they both work?" That situation -- two pairs of lines that are both perfect matches -- can't happen on the real calibration print (unless something is terribly off). Is there a reason why the graphic takes this approach? Wouldn't it be better to use line spacing that better matches a real calibration print?

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