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  1. Guten Morgen, kennt jemand den Fehler "communication error with the print head"? Kommt bei uns immer mal wieder. Drucker stoppt dann mitten im Druck. Nach Neustart alles wieder i.O. Ich vermute Kabelbruch, außer ihr kennt eine andere Schwachstelle? Gruß Andy
  2. Hi, I have two printers, an Ultimaker3 and Ultimaker3 extended. They are setup as group with one of them being the host using the Cura Connect. In previous Cura version, when I pressed the button to "Print over network" it would popup a printer selection menu to choose which one to send the print to. Now after installing the Cura 4.3.0 this window does not pop up anymore and the print is send to the first available. This is inconvenient as I have different color material on each and I'd like to chose which one can print... Can you bring back that printer selection menu? Is there a setting somewhere to enable it back? Thanks Thanos
  3. Hola a todos y gracias de antemano por vuestras respuestas, ahí va mi problema. En mi caso somos un grupo de personas que trabajamos con un par de impresoras, una es UM3 y la otra UM3 extended. Nuestro problema es que queremos llevar una especie de timeline de todas las impresiones y que estas vayan asociadas a la persona que las hizo. Desde el soporte de ultimaker me comentaron que existía el servicio de Ultimaker Cloud, sin embargo al acceder, intento registrar mis impresoras y no las registra y cada vez que entro siempre me pide registrarlas y no las guarda. Por lo tanto quería saber si lo habéis usado y si os dio este problema como lo pudisteis solucionar.
  4. Hi All, I'm selling my Ultimaker 3 Extended. EXCELLENT CONDITION!. The printer is like new, used 5 - 6 times for having a bit of fun with 3D printing. It includes all items it came with when bought. As extra it comes with front cover “see picture”. I created it out of enthusiasm and that handle was the first print :). It’s a beautiful machine, but I realised I have no time for this fun, therefore it’s for sale. Print cores: AA 0.4 and BB 0.4 Extra: one original PVA water-soluble natural material Extra: DIY front cover, see picture Asking price is £2800 Only personal pickup - London, England. No shipping, thank you for understanding. If you need more specific photos, please ask, but consider I’m a busy person 🙂 Cheers, M.
  5. I am constantly struggling with artifacts in my cylinder walls on my UM3. Blobs, zits, random noise. This seems to always happen in the same places if I use the same model to test with, so it's got to be coming via Cura. I have tweaked retractions, coasting, z-hop, speeds... nothing seems to get nice smooth walls. I've cleaned the extruder. Swapped cores. Cleaned and lubricated every rod, and checked for play. Any ideas? I've tried printing down to 45mm/s at 0.2mm layers, and I feel like I was able to get this quality from much worse printers. Here is an illustration. The rough print was sliced by Cura. It's the best one I was able to get after tweaks. The smooth print was sliced with Prusa Slic3r (and then I hacked in the start and end code from the Cura file to get it to work). The Cura slice is full of irregularities. The other is incredibly smooth. Same STL. Same filament. Same layer heights. I believe there is a 5 degree difference in print temp, but that isn't driving the result (I've tried it). I do understand it's difficult to tell with this filament, but I've done the best I can with the photos to show what I'm talking about.
  6. I bought a second hand ultimaker 3 extended and noticed it has some ringing or inconsistencies in the y axis. The wall along the x axis looks smooth, but the wall along the y axis looks really rough. Shiny black exaggerates the imperfections, but you can also feel the roughness with your finger and it is visible in other colors. The walls are printed with the default cura profile with a 0.4mm nozzle and 80mm/s speed (30mm/s outer wall speed). Printing slower makes it less pronounced, but even if i print at 20mm/s outer wall speed the y axis looks still worse than the x axis. On my old printer, a wanhao 4x, the outer walls look and feel about as good as the x axis of the ultimaker. Both x and y axis look about the same. It is printed at the same outer wall speed. I suspected it might be a bad Y axis bearing. So i replaced it, and also replaced the rod, just to be sure. Unfortunately nothing changed and the prints looks just as bad as before on the y axis. The ringing or inconsistencies are also clearly visible in this benchy (a part is painted gray). Benchy with rough walls on the y axis, printed in the defualt 0.15mm profile I then printed a bearing from pla, which probably won't last very long. But it did improve the quality of the y axis. It is a lot smoother. Not a great long term solution. Pla bearing and y axis wall with pla bearing Is there something else wrong with my printer or do all ultimaker 3's print this bad on the y axis? Does anyone else has this problem? I attached the test file i used in case anyone wants to test it on their ultimaker 3 (extended). The filament I used is ice pla black but the problem also happens with other filaments. vertical artifacts2.3mf
  7. Hi there.I´m having some troubles with my last printings and i´ve realised that the printcore 2, even when the lift switch is up, remains lower than printcore 1. Now appears the "Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values" error. However this is an usual error for me. The problem is that I cannot level the platform cause printcore 2 is always lower than printcore 1 Any ideas? Could it be a problem with the spring? I feel it isn't working well when I do this and the lift switch seems to work fine: I´m using Ultimaker 3 extended Thanks
  8. The attached model has a 6.35 mm circular indentation that won't print on the UM3E when facing down. I haven't tried to print in inverted (indentation on top) but would like to avoid that solution (not to say it would even work) since it will require additional supports, etc. Icosahedron_Vertex_withHole.stl
  9. I'm seeing a particularly frustrating problem on Cura 4.2.1 on Windows 10. When I make changes to an existing profile and then use the "Create profile from current settings" command, my settings are lost. Steps to repro: 1) Choose the Fast 0.2 mm profile 2) Change the Printing Temperature (I choose 205c). 3) Select ""Create profile from current settings/overrides" 4) Name the profile, "Foo" Expected All changed settings are maintained in the print settings panel under the new Foo profile Actual The foo profile changes to what appears to be the Fine profile (layer height is 0.1mm) and all changed settings are lost. This is such a mainstream feature that I have to think my Cura files are corrupted in some way, but I don't know enough about the Cura file structure to know what I should attach here for diagnosis. TIA, Kevin
  10. Hallo zusammen, ich wollte euch nur kurz meinen UM3Ex mit magnetischem Heizbett ala Prusa I3 MK3 vorstellen. Daheim nutze ich den Prusa und bin von den Steelsheets sowas von begeistert. Je nach Oberfläche die ich haben will, habe ich unterschiedliche Steelsheets im Einsatz. Im Geschäft haben wir nen UM3Ex bei dem es mich immer genervt hat das man warten muss bis das Bett sich abgekühlt hat, bevor man ein Teil losbekommt. Bei ESD Material hab ich es so gut wie nie geschafft, das Teil zerstörungsfrei vom Bett zu bekommen. Also habe ich mir ne Platte fräsen lassen, in die Magnete eingekelbt sind, die nun das Steelsheet halten. Als Grundplatte habe ich eine 6mm feinstgefräste Aluplatte genommen. Aussenmaße entsprechen der Glasplatte vom UM. Hier dann auch die Aussparungen für die Verriegelungen eingefräst. Auf der Rückseite sind 27 Neodym Magnete verklebt worden. Abstand zur Oberfläche 0,5mm Das ganze passt eigentlich perfekt in den Drucker. Und das Steelsheet hält genauso gut wie im Prusa. Wenn jetzt ein Druck fertig ist, kann ich das Steelsheet sofort runternehmen, zweimal biegen, Teil entnehmen und gleich wieder weiterdrucken. Das Steelsheet selber ist größer als die Glasplatte vom UM, aber das ist kein Problem. Passt trotzdem in den Bauraum.
  11. Hi, I'm wondering if other people have some experience with this. I have an UM3 extended and print 99.9% of my things sliced by Cura (4.2.1 at the moment) I do some CAD drawing and pretty much always, my printed parts never fit. Despite my putting some margins in the drawings, I usually end up doing print-try-adjust-drawing and start all over again. Since for me this is all hobby and I have by no means any knowledge or experience how you should take fitting tolerences into account, I figured it is the best I can do. But recently it just annoyed the heck out of me, because I had to adjust and reprint so many times, that it just didn't make sense anymore. So I had look on the forum on dimensional accuracy and calibration and I printed the 20x20x10 calibration cube. Now reading the posts here, I only seem to find people that have a consistent X and Y calibration error. I have a different problem: my Y size is off, my Y size is pretty much spot on. So my test cubes (just a few of them but they seem pretty consistent): 1 - X(20.01) Y(20.18) 2 - X(20.00) Y(20.21) 3 - X (19.94) Y (20.06) - I played with horizontal expansion on this one, however that also impacts my X size too and decreases that too much. So how do you calibrate only the Y? I need X horizontal expansion and a separate Y horizontal expansion,.. Or is there another trick? I also did a print at the advice low 30mm/sec print speed, I measure in the middle, not the elephant foot first layer. It's a PLA print, this filament might be more susceptible to shrinkage, as the bottom and top layers seem to come out a bit, but with the current infill pattern and print form (equally sized cube), such shrinkage should be the same in both directions. One thing which might be the cause: I had this with my previous UM3 also: one of the slider bearings in the head is probably worn out. Now with my previous, I could really hear the head click when I would change direction. If I feel the head of my UM3 ext now, it does have a very very little bit of play. Meaning I can move the tip of my nozzle sightly from forward to backwards make the whole head move ever so slightly on the axle. I have ordered a new set of bearings, so when they are mounted next week, it should exclude that as a cause. Any ideas or pointers are welcome. Cheers, Richard
  12. On Swagger I am able to change the name of the printer with the following command curl -X PUT --header 'Content-Type: application/json' --header 'Accept: application/json' -d '"zaaf77"' '' But When I run the same command into the command prompt (by changing the single quotes into double) it gives the following error {"message": "Authorization required."} How do I authorize it? I am struggling with the logic as well as syntax mainly! I know the id and key you can get from the following command: curl -X POST --header 'Content-Type: application/x-www-form-urlencoded' --header 'Accept: application/json' -d 'application=laravel&user=mughalz1' '' How do I use this id and key? Or would the id and key be the "root" and "ultimaker"? again if it is "root" and "ultimaker", how do i use it in the cURL command, Can anyone help with the syntax please? Actually, i am trying to develop my own interface so that someone can print a model from my website directly. Any thoughts please... ..?
  13. For ultimaker 3 extended, I upgraded the firmware to the latest version and then set the ip address of it as static. Then I tried to use ssh to send G-Code. It works perfectly for: ssh ultimaker@ip password ultimaker sendgcode G28. But if I login as root, and go to the /usr/share/griffin/command_util.py. Then all commands except "help" don't work and it returns error as the following pictures. How to fix this problem? Or is there any way to downgrade the firmware version to 4.3.2? Any help would be appreciated!
  14. Hello, printing "once at a time" seems tricky: the preview was perfect, but in the end, the last part (in the lower left) was cut in half. The cutting area was even closed with a nice wall! Pics are included as is the 3mf and gcode. The number of extruders was set to 1. I'm not asking for help, just for some hints of how to avoid that. (And yes, these prints are ugly, the TPU95A must be dried.) There was a thread in 2016 with the "print once at a time" topic, now i'm calling for @nallath or @gr5 🙂 The printer setting: UM3E_pUFFER-5er-Gruppe.3mf UM3E_pUFFER-5er-Gruppe.zip
  15. Weiss nicht wirklich ob es jemanden Interessiert. Ich habe nun schon das zweite mal einen Bowden Clip am UM3 verloren. Schnipp und wech 😉 Nun reicht es. Habe mich hingesetzt und einen gebaut. Vielleicht kann ihn ja jemand gebrauchen ? Vielleicht gibt den auch schon hier irgendwo. Hier der Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3769242/files Viele Grüße
  16. Curiously my camera has not been working since the last firmware update. So after some poking around I did a few things. 1) Does my Ultimaker 3 Extended have a IP address (yes) 2) Can I connect to it (yes) 3) Can I view the live stream using the http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=stream (no) 4) Can I view the snapshot of the camera at http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=snapshot (no) 5) Reset cura on the machine (done) Still can't see camera 6) Restart machine (done) didn't help I've also left the machine unpowered for a while (unplugged) and that didn't help either. Although I did have to re-associate the machine to the print group. I can't seem to connect to the camera from any of my PC's nor my iPad / iPhone. Ideas? ?
  17. Hallo, ich brauche eine Hilfestellung zum ABS. Vorweg möchte ich sagen, das die Oberfläche der Bauteile perfekt ist. So wie ich es mir vorstelle. Das Problem ist der erste Layer des Bauteiles. Hier verschmilzt das ABS nicht richtig. Will sagen man sieht die einzelnen Fäden und kann sie unter Umständen auch lösen. Dies sieht natürlich nicht schön aus und schleifen kann es ja auch nicht sein. Ich habe mit PLA, Carbon, PETG den Gegencheck gemacht und da sind die Layer perfekt. Ich dachte zuerst es würde am Printafix liegen und bin dann auf RAFT gegangen. Das Raft sieht von der Unterseite perfekt aus. Nur das Bauteil hat auch auf dem Raft den schrecklichen unteren Layer. Ich drucke über die zweite Nozzle 0.4 Drucker Ultimaker 3 Extendet Komplett geschlossener Bauraum Haftung Printafix Slider CURA 4.1 Printer neueste Firmware Ich habe zur besseren Übersicht das Druckprofil als Datei eingefügt. Ich gestehe, das der schmale Steg der Unterseite des Bauteiles 3 mm beträgt, habe aber auch wenn ich einen Würfel drucke das selbe Layerproblem Das Druckergebnis seht ihr auf den Bildern. Ich hoffe Ihr könnt mir ein wenig helfen. Grüße Michael Michas-ABS-Einstellung.curaprofile
  18. I'm selling my UM 3 Extended as I'm not using it much. Print Time - heads say < 5 days each In original (but tatty) box Included printer with original heads (3 total) 1. a few rolls of ABS material + what is left of original (1 x Black ABS slightly used, 1 x White ABS Slightly used, 1 x Red ABS unopened, Original silver - not much left - original support material not much left.) - all rolls are original Ultimaker. 2. Enhanced Print Kit (1 extra print plates/glass + Front Cover) 3. few head cleaner sticks. Will ship anywhere EU at cost price insured/signed for. Parcel(s) are heavy so not cheap to ship. Payment PayPal (Verified PayPal only or Bank Transfer @ your cost) Printer can be seen/inspected in Kew, Greater London TW9. Company Invoice without VAT (company not VAT registered) - no official warranty apart from it work :) Will be listed on eBay later if no response here: (eBay account : kaz911 - 100% since 1998) Price GBP 2800 OBO/OHB
  19. Hi, The printer was printing a rather time consuming model (1 day and 19 hours) when it suddenly switched off and back on during the last hour of printing. Does the printer have a max time during which it will automatically reboot? Has anybody else faced a similar issue and was able to identify the cause? Thanks!
  20. Hey all At my work we have an Ultimaker 3e and we have had some problems it. at the moment we have a problem we cant seem to find the solution for. Sometimes a print will get wierd looking underextruded walls in model specific places. At the pictures the problem is shown on the indside walls, while the outside walls looks fine. we use PLA and the stock settings for ultimaker 3e in cura. To me it looks like a softeware issue, but im not sure.
  21. Bonjour, J'essaie depuis plusieurs fois dimprimer un objet en Galaxy PLA (FormFutura) mais à chaque fois la buse se bouche en cours d'impression. J'ai tente de baisser, monter la température d'impression, de changer la hauteur de couche mais j'échoue encore ... avez-vous d'autres idées à me soumettre ?
  22. Bonjour à tous, Je n'arrive pas à imprimer de l'ABS sans déformation de ma pièce :( La surface positionnée sur le plateau finie par se décoller progressivement lors de l'impression en se déformant. Je me suis équipé depuis peu de l'extension de la machine permettant de fermer totalement l'air d'impression en ajoutant un porte + un volume supérieur avec ventilo. Je préchauffe le plateau à 90 ° pendant 40 mn avant de lancer l'impression . Malgré ces précautions l'impression est pas correcte. Je serais preneur d'une astuce :) merci d'avance
  23. Bonjour, j'ai un gros problème lorsque je j'allume mon imprimante... elle ne démarre pas. J'entends le ventilateur l'espace d'une demi seconde et plus rien. L'écran de contrôle ne s'allume pas, rien... J'ai débranché, re-branché plusieurs fois, j'ai vérifié l'alimentation, ras. J'ai beau éteindre, attendre, rallumer, rien... il doit y avoir une mise sous tension l'espace d'une fraction de seconde et puis plus rien... si quelqu'un à une idée?!???? Merci par avance!
  24. Hi, I'm having a little trouble with my UM3E. When I try to pause my print, the command seems to go through. When I try to resume, the printer warms up the primary nozzle but it will not resume. I eventually get this error "printcore in head slot 2 is taking too long to warm up". I've changed nozzles and the error is still there. I cannot update the firmware since my printer will only run on 3.7. Funny thing is, it worked the first time I had turned the printer on. Now it refuses to resume. Does anyone know how I can diagnose the issue?
  25. Good morning Everyone, First, if this is posted in the wrong area; I do apologize, Mod / Admin please move to the correct location. Thank you. We have a need to print out replacement laptop keys and the laptop key hinges / scissor jack for our HP Stream 11 Pro G1 - G4 laptops. This project has been created to fulfill that need and I have several students working on modeling now in www.tinkercad.com. We have an Ultimaker 3 Extended; this is going to be some very fine work are there any suggestions on any settings that I should be using in Cura 3.5? Would any of you suggest this type of project for this printer? Currently we are able to get it to print out a blank key; but for some reason the edge / lip around the key won't print. Please let me know if I should attach some of our test .stl files and thank you for your time. By the way, happy Friday. Thomas
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