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Found 189 results

  1. Hallo allemaal, Ik heb hulp nodig in ""eenvoudige"" (ik weet dat er geen eenvoudige software zijn vandaar tussenhaakjes) software om 2 kleuren te printen. Belangrijk nieuws, ik ben een beginner weet niks van modelleren of evt 3D software. Het is mij gelukt om via TinkerCAD een eenvoudige dobbelsteen te printen. Maar nu wil ik in 2 kleuren printen. Bijvoorbeeld de cijfers die op de dobbelsteen staan een witte kleur geven en de dobbelsteen zelf rood. Hoe kan ik het beste uitvoeren en met welke software wat ""eenvoudig"" is. Ik heb gelezen als men 2 kleuren wil printen dat je dan 2 STL bestanden nodig hebt, dus 2 keer printen. Maar dan is er een software nodig om te checken dat deze 2 bestanden ook werkelijk op elkaar passen of in elkaar. Welke software kunnen jullie mij het beste aanraden? Waarbij ik gemakkelijk kan leren en/of tutorials volgen.
  2. Well, I cannot find my tension feeder guide whilst cleaning out the feeder. I am searching to see if I can find one to print, but so far, no luck. going through youmagine right now, but no luck so far.
  3. In past versions of Cura I was able to generate gcode with another slicer and then send it to the printer (UM3e) over the network using Cura. In version 3.4.1 it goes through the motions of uploading the gcode to the printer but nothing else is happening. The monitor page shows that the printer is doing nothing and the printer display shows it is idle. Is this a bug or some configuration has changed?
  4. Hi, As you can see, I need more material to have a good first layer. I add more material with extrusion multplier up to 1.1 but it doesnt work. The filament seam to be stuck... I clean the nozzle between each print. I use solex printcore with 0.6 nozzle (ice). I just made a print very good with the same parameter.... Yves
  5. Bonjour, J'ai récemment acheté une nouvelle buse BB, pour remplacer mon ancienne qui était HS. J'ai pris une buse BB 0.8, au lieu de la 0.4 que j'avais avant. Je rencontre un problème lorsque je l'installe, l'imprimante me dit qu'elle n'est pas compatible avec le PVA, alors qu'elle est faite pour ça, et que j'ai bien le PVA classique de la marque Ultimaker pour lequel elle est optimisée. (cf photo) Quelqu'un a déjà rencontré un problème similaire ? Merci d'avance
  6. msvetlecich

    Printcore not recognized

    My printer was working fine yesterday. The BB core got jammed, so I took it out, cleaned it up, and was going to put it back in, when I noticed that the spring that pushes the printcore down had sprung out of place. So, I took the entire print head off of the rails and disassembled it so I could get the spring back into place. I also took out the AA core at this time to clean it up. I put it all back together again, and there seemed to be no problems until I tried to load the printcores back into place. Right now, for both printcores, the screen on the printer says "empty slot", which it should, since there aren't any print cores in there. The problem arises when I tell it to "Load" either printcore. When I press this button, the machine will home itself out, then ask me to lower the fan bracket (the blue light turns on as well). I press confirm, and the screen prompts me to press the core in place. When I do this, the printer must recognize it, because the light turns orange and it asks me to close the bracket again. The printer then homes itself out again and all seems fine until it still says "empty slot" when I look at the printcore/material selections on the screen. The exact same thing happens to both printcores. I have cleaned the connections in back of the print cores with isopropyl alcohol, tried restarting the machine, and repeating the printcore installation process a few times.
  7. Considering that we are basically a printing forum, modeling still comes up a lot. So, I just finished a pain of a sculpt. This does not mean I did not like it, but it did get tedious. And, I am always an advocate, sometimes maybe a bit strongly, for people to learn how to model no matter what your bent of desire may be. Technical, character, abstract, whatever, just learn. It opens up creativity and freedom beyond downloading everybody else's works. I am not against this in practice though. I will download models when I find an exceptional one that I can honestly say that I would not be able to improve upon. Some models out there are just amazing and even better than my modeling skills. Most are just, meh...... But, here I start with a basic philosophy: Make a very basic character 'actor' that I can pose for my starting points. In this case I am using 3DS MAX. I start off with just a basic figure. During this modeling process, I am using a philosophy of 'edgeloops' for two reasons: Really easy to bang in the basic shapes Makes it easier for the next part of the process Just half a man.....maybe the ex was right after all 😝 This makes life much easier to deal with. I only have to make one side and then add a symmetry modifier to complete the other side. Notice how overly large the latisiumus dorsi is. That will not be so as soon as we add a meshsmooth on it. This is a subdivision modifier and it relaxes the corners. Now, this is just the beginning of what this guy will do. No real finger definitions or even toes. But he is ready to get 'boned.' Yes, this is a proper term. Getcher mind outta the gutter! There ain't enough room for you AND me! 😝 Here I am using the CAT Tools (Character Animation Tools) because they are just so danged fast to get done what I want and when I pose this guy, I will be setting keyframes for each pose. One character and I can make as many poses as I need for the individuals in the sculpting phase. Then I 'skin' him. He was great with a nice chianti and fave beans.....Buh DUM psssshhhhhhhhh Basically, this slaves the mesh to the bones so that when you move the bones, the mesh follows. Now, keep in mind, I am not refining my skin. I am not doing animation. I just need something that will give me a scaffold, no matter how distorted. This scaffold will keep proportions while being abstract enough to serve as a blank canvas to build upon in the sculpting phase. Time to getcher pose on mah main dood.... And without the bones: Looks all squiggly. Well, I can see what I want to do and, really, that is all that counts. I am pretty sure that you can see the basic idea too. But, this is all I need to get started. During this phase, I am making poses and capturing mesh copies of each pose to put together as a rough concept. Still plenty of wiggle room though. Here are the three main poses to start with and I added the basic geometry to become the mound of death...... At this point, I want to also make sure I am working within a scale that will fit my chosen display base. So, I make a display cover to scale and stick the guys in there and make them fit. Now it is time to start sculpting and make some sense of this abstracty kinda mess I have made. I then import each element into 3D Coat to make the final structures through volumetric sculpting. This is the isolation of the main character. Since he is the center of focus, I work on him first. As lumpy as it is at this point, I am beginning with the bone structures and then putting the muscles on top of that. The bones drive everything. This does not mean I will avoid hyperflexing or hyper extension to get more dynamics, but it is always where I start. I have never subscribed to the 'silhouette theory'. I studied the masters and how they would block in a nude figure to find where all the wrinkles and bends would be when draping the figure. here the head has been cut off from the main imported pigure and added a stock 'dummy head' to put all the main parts of the skull and face into place. Once he is pretty much finished...there is always a bit of back and forth as the idea develops and he has to interact with more and more of the piece, but he is pretty well done....time to stick him with a fork babies......... Without bogging down too much as there are a lotta steps and such, I want to point out details that I will always model in, even if not noticed. Part of it is following through with the idea. Part of it is that if I decide to move something, the underneath part is still all there. In this case, a thumb in the eye whilst tossing the guy around. Also at this stage, when I have added fingers and toes, they are all akimbo to stress the whole body being shocked with pain, or motion. I supposes they toeses ain't roses..... I had also, by this point, started to really emphasize the troglodyte nature of the other characters. Beatle brows (see what I did there?), Popeye forearms, etc. As an example of modeling under the parts that may not be seen, here is the boot crushing a face...... The face under the boot...... And de hair be goin' SPLAT....... As I went through the characters and refined them, I tried to keep each one a bit different in visual response. In this case, he is calling for mommy like a brave lil' troglodyte should..... This face is not hidden, but not really standing out either. But I do not want to cheat the piece. So, here is the face and head And as he falls, his luscious trog star hair adds to the dynamics of his movement....that and he is listening to some thrash boot in his noggin after the beating he gots..... And, not everyone has long, luscious locks to be stroked and fondled.....I am sure even they had male pattern baldness back then....ever notice that all Neanderthal reconstructions show them all with a full set of hair" Bollox I say!! At the finishing stages I did add a few things....falling clubs from the dying hands of the troglodytes and since I got some CT scans done, I snuck in my own skull, vertebrae and ribs into the piece. And, the final piece as it stands just before printing. Front One side Mini Version is being printed now at a smaller scale just to hold it. The final will be printed in two parts as it is just too big, even for the S5! Ack!!
  8. Just as the title suggests (I'm not sure what to call it). When we do longer jobs (taller jobs, really), we see this repeated bending up of layers that creates separations fairly regularly up multiple sides of our objects. We tried printing at a higher temperature (270 up from 255) and enclosing the U3E with a cardboard box to keep heat from escaping, but it's still happening, which leads me to believe that either lack of heat isn't the cause, or we haven't committed far enough, but I don't want to break anything by making it hotter. Does anyone even know what to call this so I can search more myself? I tried cracks and warping but didn't find anything about this particular issue.
  9. Hi all, we are using a material with our Ultimaker 3 Extended that needs to be printed a lot below 100 °C. Moreover, it is very sensitive to the printing temperature. When trying to print with it, we experienced an overshoot of 15 °C compared to the desired temperature and then a decaying fluctuation. I assume that this is caused by unsuitable PID parameters (most probably the PID tuning was done for a higher reference temperature). With older Ultimakers it was possible to use M301 in the gcode to set PID parameters or M303 for the autotune. However, these do not seem to work with the new Griffin flavor of the gcode. Is there any possibility to adjust the PID parameters of the nozzles for the UM3E? Thanks a lot in advance for any help!
  10. Hi everyone, I've found that if I load my filament and then I print the printer extrudes ok. However once I leave my printer for 2-3 days without printing and then print the printer doesn't extrude any filament. I then have to unload the filament - load it again and then I can print again. Is there a way to avoid having to do this before each print?
  11. Hello All, In need of some serious help. Please let me know if i should split this into multiple threads. I recently started 3D printing with my Ultimaker 3 Ex and I have ran into quite a few issues with my first few prints. The first issue was when I tried printing with PVA support. The result is on the first few pictures attached. My assumption was a plugged nozzle so I cleaned everything and when on to try a different print. This was the second one attached which I aborted about 10-20% of the way through due to what I am assuming is either underextrusion or some other issue causing the PVA to not attach to itself. Both of these were done with a 0.4AA Nozzle and 0.2 Layer Height. I then decided to attempt the same prints again (Both the first and the second one). But run a test on Nylon support with it, I also wanted to try a quicker print so I went with a 0.8AA Nozzle and 0.4 Layer height. I know these are a lot of changes but I am really trying to learn my way around ideal centerlines through cause and effect. Even though it maintained most of its structural integrity this print had quite a few issue's which I dont fully understand. I attached pictures of this last print. It looks like overextrusion or mistakes, leaving a substantial amount of material around and a less than desirable general quality of print. Im at a loss on what I am doing wrong or what I am missing for all these prints. Any kind of help would be hugely appreciated. Thanks a ton.
  12. Curiously my camera has not been working since the last firmware update. So after some poking around I did a few things. 1) Does my Ultimaker 3 Extended have a IP address (yes) 2) Can I connect to it (yes) 3) Can I view the live stream using the http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=stream (no) 4) Can I view the snapshot of the camera at http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=snapshot (no) 5) Reset cura on the machine (done) Still can't see camera 6) Restart machine (done) didn't help I've also left the machine unpowered for a while (unplugged) and that didn't help either. Although I did have to re-associate the machine to the print group. I can't seem to connect to the camera from any of my PC's nor my iPad / iPhone. Ideas? 🙂
  13. I tried to modify the gcode of a print, to change the printcore at some point in the print. I sliced with AA.8 printcore first an at a hight of .2 eachlayer. Then I used a pligin to change the filament at layer 35. which was 7mm hight. Then I edited the gcode and cut everything after the plugin indication. Then I sliced everything with .25 Printcore and layers of .05mm placed a plugin to stop to change material at layer 140 or 7mm. Edited the gcode and cut away all up to the plugin indication. Copied what was left and past it at the beginning of the other print. I tried it but it didn't work. Here is the file. UM3E_PRINT_cORE_cHANGE_parte Fin Conbinado AyB _8 18-8-15.gcode
  14. Hello, i am currently printing on my Ultimaker 3 extended with dual extrusion. So both of my print cortes are AA 0,4mm and both of them are printing PLA, just in different colors. So my Problem is, that the outter walls aren`t printing after a couple of layers, so, as you can see in the picture, the first ~ 120 layers are totally fine, but from this moment on, there no outter wall anymore. Thats not the first time this happend, but this is the farest I got. Is there anyone who could tell me what I did wrong or how to solve this problem?
  15. Hi, I am printing a hollow object with a 2mm wall, using Colorfabb PLA/PHA and a 0.8 nozzle. Printing with a 0.4 layer height and PVA support, with a 100%infill. The majority of the wall prints fine, but when it gets to one side there are gaps in the outer wall and the inside wall is blotchy. I've also noticed that the top layer in some areas has gaps between the outer wall and fill. I have printed with a few different settings for wall thickness and top/bottom thickness - but cant seem to resolve the issue. This is not to do with the printer or material feed as I tried it on two seperate UM3E printers. Pictures attached. Any help much appreciated as I am without clue!
  16. I want to print this as a mold for a silicon part. I got the tree AA Nozzles. I'm pretty sure that if I printed with PLA .25 Nozzle an layers off .05. It will be great. But what,if I use the same height but with a .4 or .8 nozzle. Do you think that it will give me the same detail inside. thank you. Tonydg. 3dPrinted Ins Mold 18-8-11.stl
  17. When I started this project, it was originally going to be a skull I pulled from my own CT scans. However, due to the regions they were focusing on, I did not get the full face. Drat! But, I hate waste. So, I conceived of a sculpt that I could use it for and have a bit of fun. This led to two prints (One being Batty hanging from a tree limb in a swamp) from one set of models. This is the model in completed form here: This is how I got there in broad strokes. This is the base print as it came out. I had sectioned the skull to create a cutaway that would reveal the joke inside. The reason for the multitone print is that I was printing in tandem on my 2 UM3E machines to get things moving along. I just used the filament loaded as they were both PLA. This is the first test fitting. Here are the interior 'set pieces' that I had to make. I did print it originally as a one piece, but would not go inside the skull cavity. So, I sectioned it off and printed in pieces. For this, cleanliness of print was not imperative as I knew I would be doing a lot of post processing once the parts were mounted inside. And, sometimes, things lend themselves to the artistic merit of the piece. In this case, a dank swamp cave could be a bit ratty, so when a part did not print perfectly, I did not sweat it. I treat these things as I would an errant brush stroke or even an accidental smudge on a painting. i call them happy accidents. 🙂 Here I have placed the pieces inside and did not need to glue them for a couple of reasons. First, the tension held it in place very well. The second was I would take the heat gun and really work on the inside as well as use the heat and a clay modeling tool to blend the interior set into the skull cavity. This created a weld and replaced the need for any gluing. These next few pictures show the details of the parts before welding and manual sculpting of the print. You can see the dividing lines between the set pieces and between the interior set and the skull interior. I did decide to use the stringiness of this to my own advantage. You will see how in a bit. You can also see the gaps I had to fill. I did make it loose on purpose to make inserting the parts easier. It was tough enough as it was. Here you can see the beginning of the plastic welding to blend in the parts as well as blend the set parts into the base skull print. You can also see Batty's footyprints molded into the actual skull for mounting him later. Here is a closer view of the bottom of the set, but had not mounted the stalagmite tips yet. This has the stalagmite tips mounted and blended into the base of the interior. Again, printing things in tandem and with painting, differences between the PLA would not matter. Just the actual contour and strength of the b;ended parts. I took me trusty ol' 3D pen and made the stringy parts into a spider web and drew a spider right in place. Kinda looks more like a tick though. But it was an after thought and by this time, the printers were on to other projects. So, I let it go. But, you can see that there are no more seams between the interior set and the skull itself. And plastic has been pulled to hide the gaps that I left in place during printing to help with insertion. All that heat plus the pushing and pulling of plastic did cause a misfit of parts. This was something that was easily cured by careful application of heat and pushing and pulling the whole masses of plastic back into place. Now, one thing to keep in mind is that I had applied a basic primer that would work with the heat and such while allowing me to see the surfaces in a more homogeneous way. The lines that you see above were just the way the CT scan lines lined up, I guess. Other prints that came off the machines did not have this, so I am prone to thinking this was not a layer shift. The sort of odd, squiggly, circular pattern was actually the level of detail within the CT scan itself. But, by the time I got around to filling the major side lines (horizontals only) and sanding a bit, not much, and then painting, they are not really noticeable. BUT, I also did not want to obliterate them as it is the CT itself and I wanted to hold onto that a bit. Just worked to get rid of the really egregious horizontal lines. I also did not to get rid of the bumps and cracks that the CT captured and held. It is easy to wipe those out when trying to get rid of something else. After doing the clean up and adding all the after parts into the interior scene (Batty, gators, lily pads, turtle, water) the skull was back heavy and would no longer stand upright. So, I cobbled a quick stand that was sorta reminiscent of vertebrae. Then came the paint jobs, both inside and out. This was done with a brush over the primers used. I used a mixture of white, cream, Pthalo blue, Burnt Sienna and Burnt umber with just a touch of red and black to create variations in tone and push the ares of highlight into brighter areas, but also make depressions and such recede, like the eye cavities and such. All paints were acrylics. Here you can see the fixing of the mismatched contours of the main skull and cutaway. Some of the lines are still visible, but I left it as this as it lent itself to the CT scanned look without being massively distracting. And, the final interior as well. Same colours used on the interior as exterior, just different levels of each paint and, a few dabs of yellow to accent batty's bloodshot eye from being disturbed. I am doing all sorts of crazy post process stuff to learn ways to compliment a design's aesthetic idea. Coming soon, My prints of a Venom piece I designed and the differences between a straight printed and painted piece and a two color PETG and Taulman T-Glas print with huge amounts of plastic welding and such.
  18. Hallo zusammen, ich habe mir seit ein paar Tagen einen Ultimaker 3 extended zugelegt. Das drucken mit dem PLA direkt von Ultimaker funktioniert einwandfrei. Ich haben mir noch schwarzes PLA von RS Elektronik dazu bestellet, leider haftet das Filament nicht auf der Glasplatte beim drucken. ( Einstellungen zum Drucken Extruder: 225°C, Heizplatte: 60°C) Es rutscht immer nur hinter der Noozle her und haftet nicht richtig fest. Bei der Platte habe ich mehrere Sachen ausporbiert um die Haftung zu gewährleisten: 1. Uhu schicht (wie von Ultimaker empfolen) 2. Glasplatte immer entfettet vor dem Druck 3. Oberfläche etwas angeraut damit es evtl. besser haftet. Leider hat keiner der Versuche etwas bewirkt. Das einzige was etwas gebracht hat ist eine Schicht Kapton-Klebeband auf die Platte zu kleben. Meine Frage ist, habt Ihr irgendwelche Erfahrungen mit anderem Material ( also nicht von Ultimaker direkt). Oder gibt es irgendwelche Tricks die ich noch anwenden kann? Vielen Dank für die Antworten Gruß Robert
  19. Hello friends i am using UM3 extended.I am using 3d printing for Investment casting pattern. For cost feasibility i mostly use 10% infill and below support setting Please share me your opinion and suggest me settings in cura. Issues: Supports are damaging part curvature surface I am extencively working on ABS
  20. Hello, we recently changed the BB printcore. While removing the old one, a spring appeared from the top which is directly in the way of mounting. The spring can be pushed upwards with the lever and then with releasing the lever the printcore can be mounted the way that the spring pushes on top of it. But if I see videos changing the BB printcore, it's much easier and without using the lever. Could anyone post a photo which shows the top of the BB printcore installed? Or give me a hint, what to do with this spring? Greetings and have a good evening! Oliver
  21. inworks

    Failed Print Core

    Hello All. We were recently printing MatteraHackers PLA on an Ultimaker 3 Extended with Cura's recommended "Extra-Fine" setting. The first layer looked as expected, but the print core began to slowly under-extrude, and eventually no material was coming out of the nozzle. The support PVA was being printed without issues. I later found some of the PLA filament appeared to be "swollen" high in the print core, preventing it from being pushed through. I swapped the print core for another AA 0.4 core we had around and the print finished successfully. Clearly there was a problem with the old core. Was it some how "back-heating" onto the filament, causing it to swell and get stuck? This was a print core that we have been using often for about a year. Do the print cores wear out and need replacing? I don't see any recommendations, by Ultimaker, for replacing print cores as part of regular maintenance. Thanks for any tips you can give.
  22. Pepa


    For one of our Research Projects we need to print in POM (polyoxymethylene), also known as ACETAL or DELRÍN. We have a ULTIMAKER 3 Extended printer. Till the date we have done some tests, with the build plate at 95-100º and the extrusor at 235º. For the moment, we have not been able to solve the problem of adherence. Now we are using adhesion sheets, with an irregular result. It is difficult that there are no bubbles when sticking it to the glass and the piece has even lifted part of the sheet. When we stick the sheet to the glass, bubbles appears between them, and the piece has even lifted up part of the piece, as a result of those bubbles. We have had the idea of printing a small base with PLA and on top the rest of the piece with POM. We are also considering to using a BUILDTAK, but we don´t know if automatic leveling will work correctly with it. Can anyone share any experience about it?
  23. I was printing a somewhat complex and tall (1:5 aspect ratio) part (ABS) with several locations of overhang inside and outside the model, and as a result had to print supports (PVA). I set the minimum overhang angle to 15 degrees, but when I printed it, the model was encased in supports along sheer sides that don't require supports. To further illustrate what the slicer is doing, I have another example: I had to print some small parts and a large part, so I lumped them all together on the build plate for a neat overnight print. I had supports on for the benefit of the large part, the small parts have 0 locations of overhang. Yet the sides of the small parts were surrounded by support material (this time Breakaway). This is not only wasteful, but it also scars the sides of the part, why does the slicer construct these supports, and what settings could change this?
  24. After getting sick and tired of warping ABS I finally chucked it out the window put it in the bottom drawer. So I built a little desiccant box, popped my Nylon spool in, and set out printing. It's very strong, with little to no warping on all but the largest parts. However one persistent and regular issue is that near one corner of the print (though not wholly confined to there) appears large stringing/burls. Edit: Some additional observations, it appears the plastic making up the burs drips out of the nozzle while the printer switches filaments and is printing supports. What can I do in Cura to change this? The pictures attached are of the aforementioned corner of the print where the problem is. Feel free to ignore the PVA (two different support settings were used, hence one print's support has a bulge and the other doesn't) and folded-back brim.
  25. Hi, Is it possible to set a password to protect accessing the printers over the network? We've just recently connected ours to the network to allow remote monitoring, but I don't want anybody on site being able to connect and potentially print/watch prints. Thanks,

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