Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'UM3E'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type

3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker Cura
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Third party products & modifications
  • 3D print Questions
    • Improve your 3D prints
    • Design for Additive Manufacturing
    • Industries
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



3D printer

About Me



On The Web

  1. Hello there, There were topics about the 0.6 print core CC and a lot of talk about how to use it with U3 (incompatible feeder). BUT, everybody just repeating the feeder issue and seems nobody tried it, at least I don't find any conversation about it. So I have an U3E, I replaced the feeders to Bondtech, which works fine. Now I have a CC print core, trying to play with the XSTRAND PA6 material. I have made the necessary modifications in the code for the Bondtech feeders, according to this: https://support.bondtech.se/Guide/01.+DDG+For+Ultimaker+2++and+3/16?lang=en And it works juts fine with normal materials and print cores. I installed the CC core and modified the gcode for the it, according to this: http://gr5.org/cores/ The printer recognize the core, however before the actual printing starts, the printer shows a message that I have to override the setting, so it used as a 0.4 core. There is no option here, only click OK. I guess it is coming from Cura, because that does not recognize 0.6 CC core, so I have to set 0.4 print core. I made a custom profile for the CC core, with 'line width' 0.58mm and so on... (copied from the S3 settings for the 0.6 CC core) So I load the XSTRAND material press "OK" for all error messages. The print starts, the material is amazing, beautiful, the print goes well, until the core has to move to an "island" location. The oozing starts like hell. I have the same result as this guy (with Ultimaker 5S): Settings for the XSTRAND PA6 material (as suggested by the material manufacture in the post above): Retract 12 MM at a sped of 40 mm/s first layer height of 0.12 mm for 0.1 mm layers Adhesion solution: Glue Stick printing speed: 40 mm/s Print temp: 240°C Regular Fan Speed: 50% Build Plate Temp: 60°C Infill Speed: 50 mm/s Initial Layer speed 20 mm/s Minimum Speed 5 mm/s Minimum Layer Time: 3 s Build Plate Adhesion: skirt So here my first print: Anybody used CC print core with U3/E? Any experience? Any suggestions?
  2. Hi I have bought a 3D Solex Hardcore Pro and an Hardcore PVA some months ago, and I have a slot to set them up on my UM3E. I already have Bondtech QR3.0 extruders since the beginning, so not grinding... I am currently printing some ColorFabb PLA Economy with the Hardcore - 0,4 nozzle, using Cura PLA settings for 0,15 layer height with some minor mods (first layer width, infill speed). The part is quite simple, being a plate (150 * 150 * 4 mm) with a text carved into it on 2 mm depth. The print starts well, but as soon as it prints the letters, I have a clogging, then grinding and ruined print. I've done it twice, always the same results. Then the PLA is really stuck into the print core I have printed it with the legacy AA 0,4 printcore, no issue at all. To me it looks like the retraction is too high with 2mm and there is molten PLA going on the cold zone during retraction. Or a manufacturing defect on the Hardcore. Can anybody share his retraction settings on an Hardcore ? BTW, I'd like to have the email of 3d solex support team. Any help appreciated. Thanks in advance David
  3. Hi, i printed these Benchys on U3+, the left one is printed from Ultimaker Nylon and right one from Ultimaker ABS, both on stock cura 2.70 settings, can you help me getting rid of this "scratches" ?
  4. Is there a way to have Cura switch extruders during a print for a couple of layers and then switch back to the other extruder(I have a UM3)? I wanted to use it on the drum pictured to print the drum skin a different color then the drum body. I haven't seen how to do it yet. Thanks for your help.
  5. Hallo, ich habe jetzt schon das zweite Mal festgestellt, dass unser UM3 Ext den Druck versetzt. Gerade aktuell bei einem langen Druck eines Gehäuseteils Dauer ca. 34h. Es hat drei Versetzungen gegeben. Einmal nach ca. Ende des ersten Drittels ein Versatz nach links ca. 3mm (x-Achse) und kurz vor Ende des Druckes zwei massive Versetzungen nach vorne (y-Achse) um jeweils ca. 10mm. Ich habe jetzt mal alle Madenschrauben festgezogen und Achsen geölt, vorbei ich nicht glaube, dass es daran lag. Auch die Gestänge sind gerade und rechtwinklig. Ich habe eher die Steppertreiber in Verdacht. Meine Frage hat jemand Erfahrung damit gemacht, an den Steppertreibern was zu ändern zB Spannung ändern oder Kühlrippen drauf machen. Ich habe hier einen Beitrag gefunden, aber der ist aus 2015: Schiefer/versetzter Druck - Deutsch - Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts Beste Grüße Torsten
  6. Curiously my camera has not been working since the last firmware update. So after some poking around I did a few things. 1) Does my Ultimaker 3 Extended have a IP address (yes) 2) Can I connect to it (yes) 3) Can I view the live stream using the http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=stream (no) 4) Can I view the snapshot of the camera at http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=snapshot (no) 5) Reset cura on the machine (done) Still can't see camera 6) Restart machine (done) didn't help I've also left the machine unpowered for a while (unplugged) and that didn't help either. Although I did have to re-associate the machine to the print group. I can't seem to connect to the camera from any of my PC's nor my iPad / iPhone. Ideas? ?
  7. Hello, I'm coming up to you about an issue I have with a UM3E that I tried to use after few months of inactivity. I installed the last firmware normally via the printer but, when I wanted to start a print, the UM3E failed during auto levelling step. Actually, the build plate stops at 10 centimeters from printheads, even if I try to level it manually. I tried every "normal" ways to solve the problem, user reboot, factory reboot, second setup of the firmware, via USB this time… nothing changed. The printer acts as if it was an UM3 not Extended, but it is… Every print I launch is considered too big for the printer, even the smallest thing. Maybe there is a conflict between Cura, where the printer is correctly set, and the firmware of the printer, set on the UM3 height instead of UM3E height. I really don't know how to check in the firmware and if it is possible to fix my UM3E… Please, help ! Build plate "raised"
  8. I am constantly struggling with artifacts in my cylinder walls on my UM3. Blobs, zits, random noise. This seems to always happen in the same places if I use the same model to test with, so it's got to be coming via Cura. I have tweaked retractions, coasting, z-hop, speeds... nothing seems to get nice smooth walls. I've cleaned the extruder. Swapped cores. Cleaned and lubricated every rod, and checked for play. Any ideas? I've tried printing down to 45mm/s at 0.2mm layers, and I feel like I was able to get this quality from much worse printers. Here is an illustration. The rough print was sliced by Cura. It's the best one I was able to get after tweaks. The smooth print was sliced with Prusa Slic3r (and then I hacked in the start and end code from the Cura file to get it to work). The Cura slice is full of irregularities. The other is incredibly smooth. Same STL. Same filament. Same layer heights. I believe there is a 5 degree difference in print temp, but that isn't driving the result (I've tried it). I do understand it's difficult to tell with this filament, but I've done the best I can with the photos to show what I'm talking about.
  9. Moin Ich Drucke seid ca 3 Jahren beinahe täglich mit meinem Ultimaker 3 ext. Im Ersten Jahr waren es ca 200 Tage Druckzeit. Jetzt ist mir aufgefallen das das Druckbild nicht mehr so genau ist wie es einmal war. Deshalb wollte ich demnächst mal eine "Große" Wartung machen und einmal alle Verschleißteile wechseln. Bisher hatte ich einmal die Bowden Tubs und die Lüfter gewechselt und ab und an mal den Printcore. Alles andere hat wohl schon deutlich über 10000 Stunden auf der Uhr. Die Frage ist jetzt, was wäre sinnvoll alles zu wechseln? Geplant hätte ich: Lüfter Bowden Tubes Alle Riemen Glasplatte Was gibt es da sonst noch was gewechselt werden sollte? oder was ich nochmal kontrollieren soll?
  10. Hi, I'm wondering if other people have some experience with this. I have an UM3 extended and print 99.9% of my things sliced by Cura (4.2.1 at the moment) I do some CAD drawing and pretty much always, my printed parts never fit. Despite my putting some margins in the drawings, I usually end up doing print-try-adjust-drawing and start all over again. Since for me this is all hobby and I have by no means any knowledge or experience how you should take fitting tolerences into account, I figured it is the best I can do. But recently it just annoyed the heck out of me, because I had to adjust and reprint so many times, that it just didn't make sense anymore. So I had look on the forum on dimensional accuracy and calibration and I printed the 20x20x10 calibration cube. Now reading the posts here, I only seem to find people that have a consistent X and Y calibration error. I have a different problem: my Y size is off, my Y size is pretty much spot on. So my test cubes (just a few of them but they seem pretty consistent): 1 - X(20.01) Y(20.18) 2 - X(20.00) Y(20.21) 3 - X (19.94) Y (20.06) - I played with horizontal expansion on this one, however that also impacts my X size too and decreases that too much. So how do you calibrate only the Y? I need X horizontal expansion and a separate Y horizontal expansion,.. Or is there another trick? I also did a print at the advice low 30mm/sec print speed, I measure in the middle, not the elephant foot first layer. It's a PLA print, this filament might be more susceptible to shrinkage, as the bottom and top layers seem to come out a bit, but with the current infill pattern and print form (equally sized cube), such shrinkage should be the same in both directions. One thing which might be the cause: I had this with my previous UM3 also: one of the slider bearings in the head is probably worn out. Now with my previous, I could really hear the head click when I would change direction. If I feel the head of my UM3 ext now, it does have a very very little bit of play. Meaning I can move the tip of my nozzle sightly from forward to backwards make the whole head move ever so slightly on the axle. I have ordered a new set of bearings, so when they are mounted next week, it should exclude that as a cause. Any ideas or pointers are welcome. Cheers, Richard
  11. Moin Forum, wollte heute mal HIPS im Ultimaker 3 ex und UM2+ Connect drucken und habe festgestellt, das es in der Generic Material Auswahl nicht vorhanden ist. Laut CURA 4.8 ist das Generic Material installiert, wird aber in der Material Auswahl nicht angezeigt. Klar kann ich ein PLA wählen oder selber ein Material erstellen und die Parameter anpassen aber das ist letztlich nicht der Königsweg. Ich wähle am UM3 HIPS als Material für Printcore2. Cura sagt mir, das die Auswahl nicht möglich ist, da das UM Hips nicht erkannt wird. Äh... ja klar wird es nicht erkannt, ist ja auch kein NFC Chip drin. Deswegen wähle ich es ja auch manuell aus. Wenn ich dann in CURA 4.8 in das Auswahlmenü für die Generic Materialien gehe ist alles da nur nicht das Hips. Habe ich hier einen Denkfehler ? Viele Grüße Michael
  12. It is often not so clear how to use 3rd party materials with the UM3 or S5 printers. So I want to give some hints and answers to the common problems and questions. Ultimaker materials Ultimaker materials come with an NFC tag in the spool and the printer is able to read the NFC tag and can detect the material and color during the loading process. Internally the NFC tag contains a unique ID which is then matched against a material database or something like that in the printer software. So if you have loaded UM material which was automatically detected by the printer, then you just have to select the UM material profile in Cura or read the configuration directly from the printer by clicking on the printer at the top right corner in Cura and you are perfectly prepared for printing. The printer cannot detect the Ultimaker material If you have the very rare case that your UM spool cannot be detected by the printer (I have one Black PLA with that problem) then it could be that the NFC reader is not working correctly or that just the ID of the spool is not in the database. In such a case, you have to handle the spool like any other 3rd party material. 3rd party materials If you load 3rd party material, the NFC tag cannot be detected and therefore you will be asked which material you want to load. The list shows all the preconfigured materials that are supported by the printer. For example, you want to load a ColorFabb PLA material, then you should choose PLA from the list and the material will be loaded. In Cura you should select in that case the generic PLA profile otherwise, you will get a warning message that your loaded material in the printer doesn't match with the material you have configured in Cura. You can override this message but it can be avoided by choosing the correct profile. What if you place your Ultimaker PVA material in a Drybox or something like that? Then you have to handle the UM PVA as a 3rd party one. The UM profiles and the generic one are identical, so there is no difference except that you will always get a warning message if you choose a UM profile in Cura and have a material loaded which was not detected automatically by the printer. So as a general rule, if the material was detected by the printer, use Ultimaker profiles, otherwise use the generic ones. Different material types With PLA it is easy because the generic profile is named PLA and your 3rd party material normally also. But what if you buy ColorFabb XT, HT, ngen or some other PETG material and you cannot find it in the material list on the printer? In that case, you have to know that these materials are all of some kind of copolyester and Ultimaker CPE and CPE+ are also copolyester materials. So you just have to choose a material from the list which is similar to the material you want to load. It is enough when you look for the print temperature because this is the only information the printer needs to know to load the material. (heat up the nozzle to extrude some material) It doesn't matter if you choose CPE+ or Nylon or whatever for your 3rd party material if the print temperature is nearly the same. But in Cura you have to take care, that you choose the corresponding generic profile for your print job. Again, if you have selected Nylon on the printer and then use the generic CPE profile you will get the warning message. How to add your own material profiles in Cura? The best start is to duplicate a generic profile and then modify the settings you want. There is one setting which is important and this is called "Material Type". This field must match the name of the material you choose when loading the material on the printer. Otherwise, you will get again a warning message that the materials don't match. For example, you want to create a custom profile for ColorFabb XT. We know that XT is very similar to Ulitmakers CPE and therefore we duplicate the generic CPE profile. You can choose anything you want for "Display Name" and "Brand" but not for "Material Type", this should show "CPE". When you now load your XT in the printer, choose CPE from the list when you are asked for the material and in Cura you choose your custom ColorFabb XT profile which matches with the material type of the printer. It is also important, that you duplicate the generic profile you want to use during loading. So duplicating the generic PLA profile for using with CPE will also throw an error (warning message) because your new custom profile got the GUID from PLA and not CPE. So be carful when creating custom profiles. The future? With the new marketplace materials, there is a new possibility to download specific predefined profiles and I heard that there will also be the possibility to "upload" such profiles to the printer. So with an upcoming firmware, it should be possible to get the material type of such a profile in the material list of the printer. I don't know if this will work also with your own custom profiles, but we will see. I hope I have covered the most common issues and questions, if something is missing or not correct, please let me know that I can edit and correct this post.
  13. Hi, I am trying to find a way to implement different settings to the printer UM3 ext. so I don´ t have to workaround everytime I use some special filament. It is always "apita" for me to adapt to the nearest value to do the calibration an then override the print every time with Cura to the values of the filament. If there ist anything I can to (even with modding) I would be so happy... Greetings Daniel PS: I tried to upload some filaments to Cura (4.9.1) from the Marketplace (ColorFabb & BASF Filaments) but they don´ t show up in the material section, but they are marked as "installed"....? What ist wrong here. I don` t get it.
  14. Hallo liebes Ultimaker- Forum! Hat jemand Erfahrung im "Umgang" mit Polymaker Polymax PLA? Mein Plan ist es ein Modellflugzeug zu drucken. Zudem soll der Teil noch gesmootht werden. Außerdem möchte ich die Duale Extrusion des Ultimaler 3 Extened nutzen und als Stützmaterial ECO PLA auf dem zweiten Extruder drucken. Ich bin neu im Thema der Dualen Extrusion und erbitte mir hier Hilfe im Umgang mit zwei PLAs. Hat jemand Erfahrung im "Umgang" mit Polymaker Polymax PLA und war beachten ich mit Dualer Extrusion? Viele Grüße Überflieger!
  15. Hallo Leute, gibt es irgend eine Möglichkeit / Plugin / etc. um mir anzuzeigen nach welcher Druckzeit der Pause at Height stattfindet?
  16. Hallo zusammen, seit einigen Firmwareupdates habe ich kein Balken mehr der mir beim Aufheizen des Druckbettes oder der Printcores anzeigt wo er denn grad so steht. Er zeigt mir nur noch an dass er aufheizt. Früher lief da immer ein Blaken so langsam voll. Anfangs dachte ich, OK liegt an der Firmware, wird im nächsten Update behoben sein. Aber es hat sich nichts getan. Ist das bei euch auch so, oder geht es nur mir so und bei mir liegt irgendwo ein Defekt vor?
  17. These are some weird critters I have been making. One of the changes I made in my design is to not make such spindly things because I ran out of PVA materials. I had two spools of White Breakaway. I also tried to print without supports as well as experimented with PLA supports as well and eventually wound up with a mix of PLA and white breakaway supports. But first I designed a couple of things that did not require supports. This just some odd thing I made while trying to work in a basically 'primitive' style. I printed this on my UM3E with the wobbly head. So, layers are bit more visible than I would have liked. Then I printed this thing. This was when I figured an odd way of making semi-organic things that have a bit of a 'constructed' element to them and then I started making really weird things. This was my first print with the Breakaway material. You can see one of the fingers got messed up. This is it cleaned and the finger replaced with a reprinted hand part. And this print was the first I did with the mix of PLA and Breakaway supports. Sometimes the breakaway really sticks to the PLA. But it easier to remove as a whole than straightforward PLA supports. Also the breakaway forms a proper contour bed for the undersides to rest on without getting support marred surfaces. Each of these prints has pellets I have inserted during the printing process. Really makes a difference in how the pieces feel when you pick them up. The pellets are a mix of Copper BBs and lead shot that is used by scuba divers for weights. Then I pour a glue over it to cement them into place. Then it prints on up like this: This one has not been cleaned and painted yet. I figured a way to paint these using a wet on wet technique with rattle can paints. It allows for a rich wash of colour that also creates a semi-metal flake affect and a multi coloured speckle effect.
  18. Since nobody asked, I thought I would share a few things I have picked up. As I try new things I will probably tack it onto the end of this. My hope is that some of you find this instructive and I will point you to a variety of sources that I pulled information from. For the most part, I prime my prints with a black matte and then sometimes I mist white onto the print to help illuminate shape. I also am not a representative of any paints that I talk about. Just things I have played with. First, why I think things like the Polyalchemy style of 'silky looking' prints, and why I also do not like using the materials. If you are going to be making single colour, and absolutely no paint prints, they are nice. Things like this: But this limits you to the colours they or any manufacturer will put out. What if you wanted to alter the colour? I wanted to be able to do washes over them. But, when applying paint over the print, it exposes a bit of how the prints come out the way they do. It really shows all the layers as opposed to the smooth looking prints above. So that sheen becomes this: The Grey is the base colour of the print and looks fine, but even the washes that let the 'shine' of the material through, still shows lines. And as soon as you paint opaque, it really gets bad like in the face. All these Polyalchemy prints using the same resolution and machine. This was not primed and was washed with acrylics. So, unless you are doing the single colour type filament prints, this is how far it can go. I also enquired @cloakfiend about something that he had painted and not doing full Chrome (chemical based, not paint based). He pointed me to Stuart Semple's "The world’s mirroriest mirror chrome paint." Humble as he is, he did not even mention he has a much more complete review of Chrome paint options here. For the details of how different chrome paints with a good reputation look, it is well worth the viewing. However, I am looking at the paints I am playing with, not always for their strict design. First off, the Stuart Semple Chrome (I have not compared a few others yet) was by a wide margin the best. It just has that really nice 'pop' you look for in the reflections and depth of colour. I am comparing my previous 'silvery paint' and other applications of colour on a bad print. This was primed first with black and no white misting. On your left side is the Stuart Semple's Chrome. You can see the line between your left and right sides at just inside her left breast. The Stuart Semple Chrome is much easier to apply and both paints require some sort of thinner as they are not water based. You can see the difference again in this image: Below the colours are washed over the Chrome side of the print in this order: A is Pthalo Blue (green shade) B starts about midway up the forearm and is the same Pthalo Blue mixed with Stuart Semple's "Unicorn Milk." It is not easy to see in the image but mixing them made the Pthalo Blue really nice and rich with a bit more of a sheen in it. C is Read with Unicorn Milk washed over the Chrome. Below, this arm has two applications of the Pthalo Blue: A is Pthalo Blue mixed with Unicorn Milk AND when dried, a was of Unicorn Milk applied over the Base Blue which is Pthalo Blue and Unicorn Milk mixed. B is the Base Blue applied first all over the arm. You can see the richness of the base blue starting down at the crook of the elbow. It is actually much nicer in real life. On her back I just mixed some colours together and washed them over the chrome. I will be experimenting with a rattlecan of gold to wash over.
  19. UPDATE: We have confirmed this is not a firmware issue. We have tried 3 different firmware versions with no change in results. I recently began seeing some under-extrusion in both my printers (S5 and 3E) while printing in CPE. After re-leveling the beds (issue was worse on corner compared to others), cleaning the nozzle (hot and cold pulls with cleaning filament), the issue hasn't went away. Feeder tension seems right (pin in the middle, no grinding or clicking, nice consistent impressions on the filament. The S5 is about 9 months old, and the 3E is about 2 years old, and this has not occurred before, and seems to have began on both printers at the same time. And at first, I thought it was just the first layer, but it is consistent across all layers now. As it lays down lines, the adjacent lines have a gap between them. Strands are separating from the bottom layer of the part after removal from the printer. This seems to have come out of nowhere, and I am at a loss. I have tried adjusting extruder temp, tried slowing print speed, and even increased material flow with no noticeable change. However, I don't see any "classic" indications of under-extrusion on the outer walls (i.e. no gaps, outside walls look fine). I am realizing now that this issue seemed to popped up after installing the latest firmware about 2 weeks ago. This is not 100%, but it is how my memory is piecing this together. Anyone have similar issues?
  20. Hi, I am wondering if there is a workaround that you have already done that allows me to upgrade my existing printbed that is reaching now max 98c. Right now I am experiencing too much fails with PC and ABS and I am 100% sure that part of the problem is the printbedtemp. Prints are comming out great until the print jumps a ceratain hight the warping starts and after 1 cm it becomes hilarious. So I have to get a workaround if I ever want to use theese materials in a good way. So I am looking for a replacement of the existing printbedheater and or maybe to adapt an S3 printbed which would be already somewhat better with 130c° max heat Any idea that is feasible would be appreciated.. Greetings and stay save! Daniel
  21. Hi, ich versuche aktuell auf einem Ultimaker 3 Extended mit Cura einen Dualdruck mit Leitfähigem Filament auf dem rechten Extruder zu drucken. Um die Reproduzierbarkeit zu gewährleisten, möchte ich, dass jede Schicht immer zuerst mit dem rechten Extruder begonnen wird. Aktuell wechselt Cura sich von Schicht zu Schicht immer mit dem Startextruder ab, um die Anzahl der Wechsel zu reduzieren (was an sich ja auch sinnvoll und zeitsparend ist). Gibt es da eine Einstellungsmöglichkeit um immer jede Schicht mit Extruder X zu beginnnen, auch wenn dies "unnötige" Extruderwechsel bedingt? ´Bild 1: Zuerst weiß, dann schwarz(schlecht) ´Bild 2: Zuerst schwarz, dann weiß Bild 3: Gerade/ungerade Schichtnummer: Die Schicht wird immer im Wechsel mit dem anderen Extruder begonnen Vermutlich würde es sich durch ein zusätzliches Postprocessing Script des G-Codes in Python beheben lassen.
  22. H Hallo, ich habe folgende Fehler und finde keine Lösung mehr? 11. Beim Druck beginn, bewegt sich die Z-Achse (Druckbett) nach oben und dabei bewegt sich gleichzeitig der Druckkopf langsam in +Y und verlässt somit unbeabsichtigt seine Ausgangsposition. Die Folge ist, dass das zu druckende Objekt 5mm in Y versetzt auf der Druckplatte ist, auch zu Beginn, der „Säubernde Extruder austritt“. Dieses Material sitzt nun auf den Klammern. Bei PrintCore 1 und 2. Ich habe es an Unterschiedlichen Rechnern, mit unterschiedlichen Cura- Software Versionen ausprobiert, immer das gleiche Ergebnis. 22. Feeder 1 – Trotz Zerlegung des Feeder {Reinigung und Anpressdruck Einstellung nicht zu stark oder zu schwach ausgeprägten Abdruck des Zahnrades} kommt nach 20min kein Material mehr aus der Düse/Hotend ( PrintCore1). Es wurde Automatisch- und Manuell Nivelliert, Bowden-Röhren wurden gereinigt, neu gekauften PrintCore eingesetzt. Benutzt man die gleiche STL-Datei, mit der gleichen Cura Einstellung auf den zweiten PrintCore2, gibt es kein Problem. Ist es Kriechstrom oder das Mainboard defekt? Versuchte Lösungen ohne Erfolg: Neue gekaufte PrintCore eingesetzt. Auf Werkseinstellung zurückgesetzt – Fehler weiterhin. Kompletter Druckkopf inkl. neuem Kabel, neu gekauft und gewechselt ( PACUM0075V.1 ) - Fehler weiterhin Seitliche Ecken im Bauraum ausgebaut Kabel kontrolliert und gereinigt. Endabfrage in Z auf Verschmutzung kontrolliert. Druckbett ohne Glasplatte auf 14mm Grundeinstellung überprüft und Nivelliert. – Fehler weiterhin Stresstest X-Y Achse – läuft ohne Probleme. Endschalter x;y;z kontrolliert. In Ordnung Da ich an Software Problem im Ultimaker3 Extended dachte, Firmware Update von 5.2.11 auf 5.2.16 Wegen o.g. Probleme, Fehler weiterhin. Zugspannung der Bänder überprüft und nachgestellt. Printer wird mit unterschiedlichen USB-Sticks betrieben. Was übersehe ich?
  23. Bonjour à tous, je voulais faire un écrou noyé, j'ai utilisé le script pause at height sur Cura 4.8.0 avec l'option layer number mais le résultat n'est pas terrible ! En cochant l'option Redo Layer c'est légèrement mieux mais sans plus. Voici le résultat en image, avez-vous des solutions ?
  24. Hallo zusammen, ich habe mir vor ein paar Wochen einen gebrauchten Ultimaker 3E gekauft und habe derzeit ein Problem mit dem leveln des Druckbetts. Ich hatte zuvor bereits 2 3D Drucker darunter auch einen Ultimaker 2, also ist das eigentlich nichts neues für micht. Allerdings ist mir aufgefallen, dass die Düsen hinten rechts zum Druckbett einen deutlich größeren Abstand (ca. 1mm) haben als bei dem rest der Platte. Ich habe das Druckbett schon mehrfach manuell neu eingestellt und konnte das Problem dadurch nicht lösen. Ebenfalls habe ich die Glasplatte auf unebenheiten überprüft und sie auch schon andersrum eingesetzt, leider ohne Erfolg. Der Vorbesitzer hat bei dem Versand, um Platz zu sparen, zwei Filamentrollen auf das Druckbett gelegt. Meine Vermutung ist, dass sich die Metallplatte bzw. das Heizbett dadurch beim Transport ein wenig verbogen hat. Wäre das möglich? Wenn ja gibt es noch was was ich machen kann um sicherzustellen, dass dort das Problem liegt?Und falls das das Problem wäre ist die einzige Lösung das ganze Druckbett zu ersetzten oder hat jemand eine schlaue Idee wie man das wieder gerichtet bekommt? Vielen Dank schon einmal für eure Hilfe!
  25. Γεια σας! Νομίζω ότι είναι καιρός να φτιαχτεί και μια Ελληνική ομάδα εδώ μέσα. Είναι πολλά τα τεχνικά θέματα που θέλουν ευχέρεια και αμεσότητα στην επικοινωνία. Ας ξεκινήσουμε να γνωριζόμαστε - για όσους το επιθυμούν - γράφοντας στα Ελληνικά!
  • Create New...