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Found 216 results

  1. Hi, I wanted to know which hidden setting is the cause for this difference between the number of meters and the print time of the same model, but on two different printers. As you can see, the print on the U3E takes 7h32 min with 9,16 m while the same stl on the U2E takes 6h41 min and 8,70 m. Both print setup have a grid infill pattern at 20%, the same brim and the same layer height. From what I see, they are identical. I use Cura 3.4 since my computer's software is too old to support the newer versions. I noticed this difference between the printers on other models too. So, any idea on what could be different in this case between the two printers? Sandrine
  2. It appears the print core has a jammed full of the extruded filament and it has continued to extrude filament for the entire print causing a mass of PLA plastic to form between the print core and the nozzle. I've found similar such errors on Ultimaker forums here and have contacted them for advise and approach to repair whilst in warranty. Has anyone been able to get this covered by warranty? What is the suggested approach, heat the PLA with an airgun and remove? The explanation on the forums is that the part failed to stick to the bed despite using the recommended settings. The part was dragged around on the bed and the nozzle kept extruding on the same large mass of plastic.
  3. Hi All, I'm running a few prints with Breakaway for supports. Breakaway can be a little gooey and I find my printer dragging a string of Breakaway into the print area after it generates the prime tower. This is frustrating as it can drag it into an area where you don't want any Breakaway filament. To try and fix this I told Cura to generate a prime tower and I moved the prime tower so it is close to the front right of the build plate so it is close to the Breakaway prime blob. Even though the preview in Cura shows the prime tower is composed of both my main printing filament (PLA Tough in this case) and Breakaway the print head NEVER deposits any Breakaway into the prime tower. I'm guessing this might be because I'm using Breakaway for supports and not as actual printing material? I think this is must be a bug though as the preview shows both materials in the prime tower but the actual printer does not follow the preview. Anyone else run into this? Also, I don't recall Breakaway being quite so gooey when I first started to use it. Could something else be wrong?
  4. muraterciyas

    Which one to buy

    Dear all, We are using Ultimaker 2+ Extended for several years with no problem at our office. Now we do need to buy a second 3d printer with the capability of water soluble support material for better quality prints. We were planning to buy Ultimaker 3 extended. Then my partner asked why not Ultimaker S5? So I could not decide what to do? is there any body using both 3 and S5. Is there a huge differance? Should I pay 20% more and buy S5? Thanks
  5. The text on the XY calibration sheet (both the old V1.5 version packed with my UM3 and the new V1.9 version that's for the S5 as well) does a pretty good job of explaining the operation clearly. But I would say that the graphic showing you how to select a line actually confuses things again. The problem is that the difference in spacing between the Material 1 and Material 2 lines is much greater on the graphic than it is on an actual calibration print. So before I tried calibrating the real printer, when I looked at the graphic that was trying to show me 'See, choose +15 because that's perfectly lined up; don't pick -3 because that's off', my response was "Okay, but why wouldn't I choose -6? That's perfectly lined up too. Am I missing something? Would they both work?" That situation -- two pairs of lines that are both perfect matches -- can't happen on the real calibration print (unless something is terribly off). Is there a reason why the graphic takes this approach? Wouldn't it be better to use line spacing that better matches a real calibration print?
  6. It is often not so clear how to use 3rd party materials with the UM3 or S5 printers. So I want to give some hints and answers to the common problems and questions. Ultimaker materials Ultimaker materials come with an NFC tag in the spool and the printer is able to read the NFC tag and can detect the material and color during the loading process. Internally the NFC tag contains a unique ID which is then matched against a material database or something like that in the printer software. So if you have loaded UM material which was automatically detected by the printer, then you just have to select the UM material profile in Cura or read the configuration directly from the printer by clicking on the printer at the top right corner in Cura and you are perfectly prepared for printing. The printer cannot detect the Ultimaker material If you have the very rare case that your UM spool cannot be detected by the printer (I have one Black PLA with that problem) then it could be that the NFC reader is not working correctly or that just the ID of the spool is not in the database. In such a case, you have to handle the spool like any other 3rd party material. 3rd party materials If you load 3rd party material, the NFC tag cannot be detected and therefore you will be asked which material you want to load. The list shows all the preconfigured materials that are supported by the printer. For example, you want to load a ColorFabb PLA material, then you should choose PLA from the list and the material will be loaded. In Cura you should select in that case the generic PLA profile otherwise, you will get a warning message that your loaded material in the printer doesn't match with the material you have configured in Cura. You can override this message but it can be avoided by choosing the correct profile. What if you place your Ultimaker PVA material in a Drybox or something like that? Then you have to handle the UM PVA as a 3rd party one. The UM profiles and the generic one are identical, so there is no difference except that you will always get a warning message if you choose a UM profile in Cura and have a material loaded which was not detected automatically by the printer. So as a general rule, if the material was detected by the printer, use Ultimaker profiles, otherwise use the generic ones. Different material types With PLA it is easy because the generic profile is named PLA and your 3rd party material normally also. But what if you buy ColorFabb XT, HT, ngen or some other PETG material and you cannot find it in the material list on the printer? In that case, you have to know that these materials are all of some kind of copolyester and Ultimaker CPE and CPE+ are also copolyester materials. So you just have to choose a material from the list which is similar to the material you want to load. It is enough when you look for the print temperature because this is the only information the printer needs to know to load the material. (heat up the nozzle to extrude some material) It doesn't matter if you choose CPE+ or Nylon or whatever for your 3rd party material if the print temperature is nearly the same. But in Cura you have to take care, that you choose the corresponding generic profile for your print job. Again, if you have selected Nylon on the printer and then use the generic CPE profile you will get the warning message. How to add your own material profiles in Cura? The best start is to duplicate a generic profile and then modify the settings you want. There is one setting which is important and this is called "Material Type". This field must match the name of the material you choose when loading the material on the printer. Otherwise, you will get again a warning message that the materials don't match. For example, you want to create a custom profile for ColorFabb XT. We know that XT is very similar to Ulitmakers CPE and therefore we duplicate the generic CPE profile. You can choose anything you want for "Display Name" and "Brand" but not for "Material Type", this should show "CPE". When you now load your XT in the printer, choose CPE from the list when you are asked for the material and in Cura you choose your custom ColorFabb XT profile which matches with the material type of the printer. It is also important, that you duplicate the generic profile you want to use during loading. So duplicating the generic PLA profile for using with CPE will also throw an error (warning message) because your new custom profile got the GUID from PLA and not CPE. So be carful when creating custom profiles. The future? With the new marketplace materials, there is a new possibility to download specific predefined profiles and I heard that there will also be the possibility to "upload" such profiles to the printer. So with an upcoming firmware, it should be possible to get the material type of such a profile in the material list of the printer. I don't know if this will work also with your own custom profiles, but we will see. I hope I have covered the most common issues and questions, if something is missing or not correct, please let me know that I can edit and correct this post.
  7. Twice in the last few days, I have started a print on my UM3E, only to have the machine basically stall during the initial filament purge (the glob it puts down in the front/left corner). In both cases, I had to shut the machine off to get it to stop. Normally, it purges for a few seconds, then lowers the print bed a bit while purging for a few more seconds, then moves to begin the actual print. The total time is normally no more than 10 seconds. The first time, it purged for about 30 seconds (at the initial height, and never lowered the bed) before I realized what was happening. It made quite a mess on the nozzle. After that was cleaned up, I started the print again and it worked fine. Today, I went to run another batch off the same G-Code file, and it did this again. I caught it quicker this time, so less of mess. As with the previous time, I started the print again and it worked fine. Any ideas? I have had this machine for 12 months, and have never seen this before. The firmware has not been updated recently, and the same Cura version has been in use for months.
  8. LeviathoanOne

    Red Skull

    Version 1.0.0

    26 downloads

    48 Hour Print 0.1 MM LH
  9. thomasbennett

    Printed Laptop Keys

    Good morning Everyone, First, if this is posted in the wrong area; I do apologize, Mod / Admin please move to the correct location. Thank you. We have a need to print out replacement laptop keys and the laptop key hinges / scissor jack for our HP Stream 11 Pro G1 - G4 laptops. This project has been created to fulfill that need and I have several students working on modeling now in www.tinkercad.com. We have an Ultimaker 3 Extended; this is going to be some very fine work are there any suggestions on any settings that I should be using in Cura 3.5? Would any of you suggest this type of project for this printer? Currently we are able to get it to print out a blank key; but for some reason the edge / lip around the key won't print. Please let me know if I should attach some of our test .stl files and thank you for your time. By the way, happy Friday. Thomas
  10. I recently had one of my AA cores jam. This isn't a new thing, but it was much worse than usual. I was running PLA. I tried to move the filament jam at T=200C, but it remained stuck. I had to cut the filament at the print core to get it out to look at it. As you can see, near the cut there is a blob of filament preventing movement. This jam was not discovered until after a run, and the heat of the core with pressure and a lack of movement caused the softened filament to blob up there. But that does not explain why I could not pull the filament back out. To address this, I heated the core and popped it out of the printer while hot. I carefully unscrewed the brass tip from the Olssen block with a wrench. What I found surprised me. At the tip of the filament cone was a sliver of the brass from the nozzle. Even with everything unscrewed, the nozzle dangled from this metal sliver which was bound by the plastic. Being grumpy and burned several times from playing with a hot core, I was not thinking clearly, and I failed to take a picture of the bit in question before trashing it. (note to self, go dig through shop trash). I took the barrel out of the core and used a torch to melt out the remaining plastic. Once reassembled, I did a hot/cold pull on the core until it came out clean. The core was then tested and was found to extrude properly. ---------------------------------------- Edit: I found the piece and took photos. The metal has since sheared off from the melt, but is still visible sticking out of the surface. I apologize for the low quality microscope pictures. I can't wait for my GF to upgrade her scope. Due to an accident reassembling the core, it sadly would not print. The spring on the barrel was still too hot when I reassembled the core, and it pushed through the plastic clamp. This means that the core will not sit properly and fails bed-leveling tests. It is likely repairable. I suppose if I had to ask the community a question about this, it would be WTF?!?! Has anyone seen this before? Since the Ultimaker warranty does not cover the cores, should I find the offending plastic with embedded metal and escalate this issue? Note: I hereby attest that I have only ever used unfilled PLA with that core. There has never been foreign material introduced from brass-fill or similar filaments.
  11. This topic is reporting an issue observed on my UM3E regarding some problems I have had with axles and motors falling out of place. These issues are believed to be fixed (unless more issues arise), but input for improvements are sought. Mostly this thread is documenting the observations to provide precedent for others who experience similar problems. Issue 1: Horrible noises from the printer indicated that something was very wrong. When I went to inspect the noise, I noticed that the X axis stepper motor was shaking like leaf in the wind. I turned my unit around to inspect the screws and found one of them nearly all the way out (see image). The others were several turns loose as well. I tightened everything up and the noise/shaking stopped. I considered using some thread lock on those screws, but opted not to without consulting the forums. Issue 2: The axle-rod fell out. See picture. The axle-rod in the Y direction fell out of the black press-fit belt linker. This issue occurred after Issue 1, so I suspect they are related. This appears to be a common issue with UM3E, as evidenced by the ease with which I found others (1 2), a FBRC8 guide (3), and a DIY part (4). The axle was easy to reinsert. Afterwards, I greased up everything I could in case that was a contributing problem. Issue 3: The magnetic fan door no longer closes. It is difficult to tell if this is related to the vibration issues. Without knowing, I am adding it here. The metal hinge of the door seems to be bowed outward. I can find no obvious cause for this. I attempted removing the silicone seals (which are all crusty and burnt to hell on mine) to see if that was causing the door to close improperly. Nope. I then attempted to close the door with both print cores removed. Again, nope. Bending the metal gently counter clockwise appeared to help. The door would close, but within a few minutes, fall open again. I chose not to use much force in this bending to prevent damage to my printer or my warranty. A semipermanent solution has been found: a rubber band, which is doing an excellent job of holding the thing together. As stated before, these problems are "solved", but input is welcome. Why did this suddenly start falling apart? Will my fixes be sustainable? What should I expect in the future? Is this a grand conspiracy for the printer to fall apart 5 days before my warranty expires?
  12. Hello, I'm coming up to you about an issue I have with a UM3E that I tried to use after few months of inactivity. I installed the last firmware normally via the printer but, when I wanted to start a print, the UM3E failed during auto levelling step. Actually, the build plate stops at 10 centimeters from printheads, even if I try to level it manually. I tried every "normal" ways to solve the problem, user reboot, factory reboot, second setup of the firmware, via USB this time… nothing changed. The printer acts as if it was an UM3 not Extended, but it is… Every print I launch is considered too big for the printer, even the smallest thing. Maybe there is a conflict between Cura, where the printer is correctly set, and the firmware of the printer, set on the UM3 height instead of UM3E height. I really don't know how to check in the firmware and if it is possible to fix my UM3E… Please, help ! Build plate "raised"
  13. I am having a consistent issues with my feeder grinding filament rather than feeding. What does this grinding/feeding issue look like? When the filament gets stuck at the extruder head or flattened by the feeder axis, the toothed wheel grinds a semi-circle into the filament. See here. This is occurring nigh-constantly on Feeder 1 of my machine. It always occurs during the same point of the cycle: about two layers in, the surface of the print begins to look sputtered as it is failing. Then nothing comes out. The device in question is an Ultimaker 3 Extended with up-to-date firmware. I am running PLA to an AA core. The issues have occurred across multiple brands of filament. I doubt there are any humidity issues; brand new filament has problems too. To date I have attempted the following to fix the issue: Hot/cold pull of AA print core (the core pulls cleanly, so I doubt it is clogged). Feeder spring tension adjustment. Info at the bottom of this page. (When the gauge is at the top of the meter on the side of the feeder, it exhibits the issues described above at ~layer 2. When it is below that point, it doesn't feed anything from the beginning.) Use of compressed air duster to clean ground PLA material from feeder. Info at the middle of this page. What's going on here? Is there something I have not tried to remedy this? Does anyone have a tensiometer which can be used to check the force applied by the spring of a working feeder? Should I contact the distributor at this point to request help? Thanks for your assistance. I'd be happy to provide additional info upon request.
  14. Theisborg

    Printer connection problems

    OS: linux mint 19 Hi guys I am having problems connecting to my UM3E. I can find the printer on the network but not connect to it. I have tried cura 3.1 installed from the build in software manager but that did not work. I also tried the following AppImages: Cura-3.3.1.AppImage Cura-3.5.1.AppImage Ultimaker_Cura-3.6.0.AppImage A colleagues also could not get 3.6 to work and recommended 3.3.1 that works on his Ubuntu. I have attached the cura.log file If anyone has any hint on how to solve this problem please let me know how to move forward... BR. cura.log
  15. Bonjour, j'ai un gros problème lorsque je j'allume mon imprimante... elle ne démarre pas. J'entends le ventilateur l'espace d'une demi seconde et plus rien. L'écran de contrôle ne s'allume pas, rien... J'ai débranché, re-branché plusieurs fois, j'ai vérifié l'alimentation, ras. J'ai beau éteindre, attendre, rallumer, rien... il doit y avoir une mise sous tension l'espace d'une fraction de seconde et puis plus rien... si quelqu'un à une idée?!???? Merci par avance!
  16. Hi all, I am looking to purchase a used Ultimaker 3 or 3 Extended located in the U.S. Preferably in Los Angeles or California, but I'll take what I can get. Only request is that machine works well and has no issues. I'm an artist and creative director and its time to finally invest in my own machine. If anyone has one for sale in the U.S. please let me know. Cheers, Jonathan www.polygonfuture.com mail@polygonfuture.com
  17. LeviathoanOne

    Carbon Fiber Filament ?

    I've heard that carbon fiber filaments can damage your extrude nozzle. If so what will I have to be do to my UM3E to be able to print in carbon fiber safely? (Any recommendations of carbon fiber filiments would also be appreciated)
  18. Hi, I am having an issue with this error message on the Ultimaker 3+. It is in both printcores at alternative times. I have had a look at this https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/51185-printcore-taking-too-long-to-warm-up and i'm pretty sure that the temperature in the room is ok and the silicone covers seem to be in the correct position. I have dumped the files onto my USB but i dont know what to do with them after that haha. Has any one encountered this before? It has only started happening since I dismantled the Printhead and put it back together again as the spring in the right hand side had fallen. Never-ending problems at the moment!! Any help or advice would be apprecitated.
  19. Hi, On the BB side of my printer there is a spring that has fallen through the hole from were the PVA is extruded. It is causing issues when trying to get the print core in and also when the filament is coming down it is getting stuck on it. Is it possible/easy to get this spring back to were it should be?! Would anyone have had a similar experience and maybe instructions on how to do so? Thank you
  20. I am finally getting around to posting this. We bought our UM3E about 12 months ago. The first time I ran a print over night, the filament jumped over the edge of the spool, got bound up around the spool post, and caused the print to fail (in the last 60 minutes of the 20 hour print job). I was very frustrated. So I designed a simple add-on to prevent this from happening again. The factory equipment restrains the filament at one point around the spool, leaving it free to jump the spool around the rest of spool. To fix this, I created two additional restraint arms. To make sure it fit correctly to the existing components, I downloaded the part CAD files from Ultimaker. It fits over the spool post, and positively locks into place against the existing retainer arm (to prevent it from rotating with the spool). When changing spools, you just sit the retainer on the side of the spool, and load it normally. A little turn ensures it is locked in.
  21. Hello, I'm coming up to you about an issue I have with a UM3E that I tried to use after few months of inactivity. I installed the last firmware normally via the printer but, when I wanted to start a print, the UM3E failed during auto levelling step. Actually, the build plate stops at 10 centimeters from printheads, even if I try to level it manually. I tried every "normal" ways to solve the problem, user reboot, factory reboot, second setup of the firmware, via USB this time… nothing changed. The printer acts as if it was an UM3 not Extended, but it is… Every print I launch is considered too big for the printer, even the smallest thing. Maybe there is a conflict between Cura, where the printer is correctly set, and the firmware of the printer, set on the UM3 height instead of UM3E height. I really don't know how to check in the firmware and if it is possible to fix my UM3E… Please, help ! Build plate "raised"
  22. studioAdhoc

    Plateau à 10cm des buses... UM3E

    Bonjour, J'ai récemment tenté de remettre en service une UM3E qui n'avait pas fonctionné depuis quelques mois. À l'allumage tout semblait bien se passer, le dernier firmware s'est installé sans souci, jusqu'à ce que j'essaye d'imprimer une petite pièce pour la forme. Au moment du nivellement automatique du plateau, celui-ci monte et s'arrête à 10cm des buses, ce qui mène à un échec de l'opération. J'ai tout essayé, réinitialisation avec paramètres d'usine, réinstallation des pièces comme au premier allumage, etc. Rien à faire, même lorsque je met le plateau en position haute, via le moniteur sur la machine, il s'arrête obstinément à 10cm des buses. Aussi chaque impression lancée, même la plus petite, est détectée comme étant hors format. J'en viens même à croire que la machine se prend pour une UM3 au lieu d'une UM3E, mais je ne sais pas comment m'y prendre pour vérifier ça... le plateau en "position haute" Je ne sais pas si l'attribut "unknown" est très bon signe non plus, ou si c'est normal. Si vous pouviez m'aider à refaire fonctionner cette jolie bécane...
  23. kcel

    Early Priming

    Hi, Using the latest cura (3.5.1), I've noticed an odd problem. I'm printing using Tough PLA with Breakaway. I'm printing with a raft. What I'm seeing is that the Breakaway filament is primed (good), first layer of raft laid down (good), and then the PLA is primed (still has a couple of layers to go before it would need it) then drags a thread of PLA across the build plate (Tough PLA seems more stringy) so it can go swap back to the Breakaway and complete the raft. I'm left with a thread of PLA embedded in my raft. I've even turned on a prime tower and when it primes the Tough PLA it doesn't go near the prime tower to wipe or anything. So it is priming just for the sake of priming. In this particular case it doesn't really cause a major problem because the raft is, of course, throwaway. But it is odd behaviour and is not consistent with previous behaviour where it would prime the filament only when it first starts to print with it. Cheers!
  24. Hi there, So my print core seems to be completely blocked after a period of dormancy and i think the PVA has fully carbonised inside. I have tried hot and cold pulls but the material seems to me only just melting in the nozzle and nothing coming out the other side. I have tried to unblock with a needle (a thinner one may actually be the solution) Dismantling it looks like a chore but just wondering how close i may be to the last chance saloon or if there was a way to more easily remedy the problem? If anyone has had a similar experience it would be great to know how you solved it - and if it is time to maybe just buy a new print core? Thanks!
  25. I've been having an issue with cura connects monitor mode for as long as I can remember, where the status of one of the printers with change every other second, and the other will never show that its available, even when it is. In the screenshots I have attached below, both the printers shown are not printing. This has been an issue that has persisted through multiple updates. I am currently running 3.5.0.
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