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  1. I recently had my Ultimaker 3 Extended printing over night and as I came back in the morning to look at the print I saw an absolute disaster. The Material didn't print properly and somehow managed to find its way back up the side of the nozzle and onto the heaterblock. I immediately tryed to remove the printcore which was a mistake because not only was I unable to do so because of all the plastic clogging the entrence, but the display now also showed an error message which stated a max temp. error. I restarted the printer which made the error dissapear. Then I heated the core up to 210C and removed the core successfully. After that I swaped the AA core out which caused the max. temp error to reapear. So I opened the Ultimaker support site according to the error and went through all the steps off cleaning the pins etc. However all of this didnt solve the issue. In fact I now got the error message that my printcore is unrecognized (I tried 3 different cores and I doubt that they are all faulty). My bad luck went on as I made the poor decision to reset the printer to the factory settings. Now whenever I start the printer the setup appears and tells me to insert the cores which makes the "unrecognized printcore" message reappear and im now unable to go to the update page which I initially intended to. Quick summary Printer: UM3E latest firmware Error messages: -Max temp. error on PrintCore - ER12 -An unrecognized printcore was inserted in the printhead Troubleshooting: -cleaned pins -swaped multiple cores -factory reset printer -restarted printer multiple times -checked for faulty connection (might be a faulty printhead pcb though)
  2. I am constantly struggling with artifacts in my cylinder walls on my UM3. Blobs, zits, random noise. This seems to always happen in the same places if I use the same model to test with, so it's got to be coming via Cura. I have tweaked retractions, coasting, z-hop, speeds... nothing seems to get nice smooth walls. I've cleaned the extruder. Swapped cores. Cleaned and lubricated every rod, and checked for play. Any ideas? I've tried printing down to 45mm/s at 0.2mm layers, and I feel like I was able to get this quality from much worse printers. Here is an illustration. The rough print was sliced by Cura. It's the best one I was able to get after tweaks. The smooth print was sliced with Prusa Slic3r (and then I hacked in the start and end code from the Cura file to get it to work). The Cura slice is full of irregularities. The other is incredibly smooth. Same STL. Same filament. Same layer heights. I believe there is a 5 degree difference in print temp, but that isn't driving the result (I've tried it). I do understand it's difficult to tell with this filament, but I've done the best I can with the photos to show what I'm talking about.
  3. I have an UM3 for quire a while now and want to make some modifications to the firmware. After some reading on the forums I fount that the UM3 firmware is available on request, but Ultimaker is systematically ignoring my requests. So is there anyone who has gotten the UM3 firmware, or knows how to get it? I doubt that Ultimaker itself will be of any help, since they are still ignoring my emails.
  4. Bonsoir, Mon filament a beaucoup de mal a passer dans le tube bowden, auriez vous une solution ? Merci.
  5. I am having a consistent issues with my feeder grinding filament rather than feeding. What does this grinding/feeding issue look like? When the filament gets stuck at the extruder head or flattened by the feeder axis, the toothed wheel grinds a semi-circle into the filament. See here. This is occurring nigh-constantly on Feeder 1 of my machine. It always occurs during the same point of the cycle: about two layers in, the surface of the print begins to look sputtered as it is failing. Then nothing comes out. The device in question is an Ultimaker 3 Extended with up-to-date firmware. I am running PLA to an AA core. The issues have occurred across multiple brands of filament. I doubt there are any humidity issues; brand new filament has problems too. To date I have attempted the following to fix the issue: Hot/cold pull of AA print core (the core pulls cleanly, so I doubt it is clogged). Feeder spring tension adjustment. Info at the bottom of this page. (When the gauge is at the top of the meter on the side of the feeder, it exhibits the issues described above at ~layer 2. When it is below that point, it doesn't feed anything from the beginning.) Use of compressed air duster to clean ground PLA material from feeder. Info at the middle of this page. What's going on here? Is there something I have not tried to remedy this? Does anyone have a tensiometer which can be used to check the force applied by the spring of a working feeder? Should I contact the distributor at this point to request help? Thanks for your assistance. I'd be happy to provide additional info upon request.
  6. It has 1,192 hours of printing time on it for the few years I had it- really wasn't used all that much. I'm also giving a few materials that I have for it, a bit of PLA and some of wood plastic and ABS materials that I have. My asking price is 2,900€ + shipping, (I'm from Serbia) The price is really a good deal, but I'm willing to talk. Pictures can be seen here: https://www.kupujemprodajem.com/big-photo-94311325-1.htm Selling reason is that I don't need such a big printer for my needs (mostly print minis). Everything is working and fine 🙂
  7. Hi folks, This may seem like a stupid question, but how do you change the time on the UM3E? I've started pulling API data from the printer (http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/api/v1/print_job) to monitor the status so I can plan when the next job can be put into the machine The "datetime_started" is 1 hour out against local time (Edinburgh) I'm not sure if it's not updated to British Summer Time (I use the word Summer loosely ) or it syncs with a time server in Europe. Any help would be great. Cheers Jamie
  8. Over the past few days I've had a new issue with my machine. During a print with CPE and standard UM print core (AA 0.4), the y-axis print head shaft fell out during the print. (This happened when the print was about two inches off the bed). I popped the shaft back in and did some basic diagnostics and everything seemed to be fine. I did some test prints and sat and watched and everything was good. Later, I switched over to a 3d Solex printcore (so I could print nylonx) and did more test prints. Everything was good. So I let the machine go for another print job and went about my business. Naturally, sometime during the print (about 1 cm off the bed) the same thing happened and the shaft popped out of the front and back brackets. So I fixed it. Again. This time, I was going to watch the print and see what happened if it happened. Of course, the minute I take a bathroom break, it pops out again. I have no idea what's going on. I've had the printer for three years and this is the first real issue I've had.
  9. Have an Ultimaker 3 Extended I purchased in Feb 2018. Used frequently For about a year - Maybe 1000 hours total on the machine. Includes - UM3E Original Packaging Printed Solid acrylic enclosure & Door w/Hepa Filter 2 UM Glass Sheets Print Cores AA 0.4 x 2 AA 0.25 x 1 BB 0.4 x 1 BB 0.8 x 1 Filament - Dried and vac sealed. Partial roles of PLA, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon, PVA. Meticulously maintained.
  10. I purchased the DDG Bondtech extruders due to worn out feeder wheels from abrasive material. My issue is I am having difficulty getting in to change the new updated firmware; 5.2.11 that is now installed. I have followed Bondtech's instructions; https://www.bondtech.se/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Bondtech-DDG-Ultimaker-V2.0.pdf I am on page 10 in this manual and I am successfully connected to my UM3+ printer (in developer mode) and there is no command line associated with my 5.2.11 firmware download. The manual offers to copy and paste one of the command lines below into my PUTTY client prompt: "Firmware Version Command 3.6 vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/jedi.json 3.7 – 4.2.5 vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json I tried a pathway for the downloaded 5.2.11 and it does not work. Would anyone know what the correct command line for the 5.2.11 download I would enter in to PUTTY? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  11. The picture below was printed with PETG and was printed at 50 mm/sec on a UM3. but I also have the same problem with PLA. and if I slow the print down. Do the Jerk settings help that? I did try it but I didn't see any difference. Thanks
  12. Is there a way to have Cura switch extruders during a print for a couple of layers and then switch back to the other extruder(I have a UM3)? I wanted to use it on the drum pictured to print the drum skin a different color then the drum body. I haven't seen how to do it yet. Thanks for your help.
  13. Curiously my camera has not been working since the last firmware update. So after some poking around I did a few things. 1) Does my Ultimaker 3 Extended have a IP address (yes) 2) Can I connect to it (yes) 3) Can I view the live stream using the http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=stream (no) 4) Can I view the snapshot of the camera at http://<ip_address>:8080/?action=snapshot (no) 5) Reset cura on the machine (done) Still can't see camera 6) Restart machine (done) didn't help I've also left the machine unpowered for a while (unplugged) and that didn't help either. Although I did have to re-associate the machine to the print group. I can't seem to connect to the camera from any of my PC's nor my iPad / iPhone. Ideas? ?
  14. Hello there, There were topics about the 0.6 print core CC and a lot of talk about how to use it with U3 (incompatible feeder). BUT, everybody just repeating the feeder issue and seems nobody tried it, at least I don't find any conversation about it. So I have an U3E, I replaced the feeders to Bondtech, which works fine. Now I have a CC print core, trying to play with the XSTRAND PA6 material. I have made the necessary modifications in the code for the Bondtech feeders, according to this: https://support.bondtech.se/Guide/01.+DDG+For+Ultimaker+2++and+3/16?lang=en And it works juts fine with normal materials and print cores. I installed the CC core and modified the gcode for the it, according to this: http://gr5.org/cores/ The printer recognize the core, however before the actual printing starts, the printer shows a message that I have to override the setting, so it used as a 0.4 core. There is no option here, only click OK. I guess it is coming from Cura, because that does not recognize 0.6 CC core, so I have to set 0.4 print core. I made a custom profile for the CC core, with 'line width' 0.58mm and so on... (copied from the S3 settings for the 0.6 CC core) So I load the XSTRAND material press "OK" for all error messages. The print starts, the material is amazing, beautiful, the print goes well, until the core has to move to an "island" location. The oozing starts like hell. I have the same result as this guy (with Ultimaker 5S): Settings for the XSTRAND PA6 material (as suggested by the material manufacture in the post above): Retract 12 MM at a sped of 40 mm/s first layer height of 0.12 mm for 0.1 mm layers Adhesion solution: Glue Stick printing speed: 40 mm/s Print temp: 240°C Regular Fan Speed: 50% Build Plate Temp: 60°C Infill Speed: 50 mm/s Initial Layer speed 20 mm/s Minimum Speed 5 mm/s Minimum Layer Time: 3 s Build Plate Adhesion: skirt So here my first print: Anybody used CC print core with U3/E? Any experience? Any suggestions?
  15. Ultimaker 3 extended de Juin 2017 (valeur 4434 €) Capot Ultimaker 3 avec porte (valeur 379 €) Pack hardcore Pro AA 7 3D Solex de mars 2019 (valeur 288 €) Print Core BB 0.8 mm (Valeur 119.95 €) Stock pva ultimaker 750 g (reste 80 %, valeur 101 €) Stock Pla Polymax 3 Kg (reste 80 %, valeur 168 €) Carton d'origine. Maintenance par Makershop juillet 2019 (3h de MO, + pièces + port = 406.80 €) si il y en a qui veulent repasser par un clean up Makershop. Depuis peu tourné, je m'en sépare car trop de maintenance sur cette imprimante et je n'ai plus le temps Mise à prix à 3 500 €
  16. Hello, I have a broken hot end isolator voor the Ultimaker 3E. I can't find it as a spare part. I do find the part for the UM2. Is it possible to obtain one somewhere? So I don't have to spent 100 euro's on a new printcore . . . Thanks a lot! Onno
  17. Hallo zusammen Bei mir verrutscht in letzter Zeit immer häufiger die Glasplatte seitlich mitten in einem Print. Warum wird die Glasplatte beim UM3E nicht auch seitlich gehalten und wie kann ich dies nachträglich bestmöglich einbauen?
  18. Hello I print this famous open source jet engine from thingiverse with Ultimaker 3 Extended and Cura (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1327093 ). I got problem with the print of the casing. There are numerous flanges on the casing parts (90° plane surfaces) and I'm very disappointed by the surface quality of these supported surfaces (roof interface with the support) in comparison with the supporting surfaces (floor interface with the support). I print with PLA for both product and support. I tried two times without significant improvement. For the second print, I reduced "support Z distance", I added "Support horizontal expansion" and "support Interface/roof". Even with this "support Interface/roof" the result is not really different. Below you will find the details of my setting and few pictures of the floor and the roof interfaces. For floor and roof interface, you can recognize zig-zag marks from the support. But for the roof interface, it looks like there is no shell on the interface, just the 50% infill. First print: - Layer Height : 15 mm - Infill Density : 50% - Support Density 15%(zig-zag) - Support Z distance 0.15mm Second print: - Layer Height : 15 mm - Infill Density : 50% - Support Density 15% (zig-zag) - Support Z distance 0.1mm - Support Horizontal expansion : 1mm - Enable support Interface/Roof : support roof thickness 1mm, Support Roof density : 30% Would you have suggestions to improve my print ? Is it possible to set a slower print speed or an higher infill density just for the critical area of my product (the roof interface) ? Thank you for the help
  19. Hi, Is it possible to set a password to protect accessing the printers over the network? We've just recently connected ours to the network to allow remote monitoring, but I don't want anybody on site being able to connect and potentially print/watch prints. Thanks,
  20. Hello, my Ultimaker S3 Extended couldn't create the WiFi hotspot. I have waited for half a day and it still stuck on this message. I have rebooted, updated to latest firmware, reset to factory setting but the problem still persist. I have addressed the problem to my local distributor but I still haven't get any feedback ever since.
  21. Hello everybody. It's the first time I'm writting in this forum so let me Introduce myself a bit. I use 3D printing mainly at work, we have a Ultimaker 3 Extended to print prototypes. 99% of our print are made in grey PLA and we normally use either PVA or Breakaway as supports. Lately I've been having issues with the the bottom layers, not the intial layer, all the bottom layer sin contact with the supports. I've tryed many things, touching temperature, velocities, overflows, material,... all kinds of setting but at the end I was having the same results. Today I was thinking about it and I did a change, I downloaded the version 3.6 of cura and I've printed with the exact same settings, materials and printer and magically the problem has gone away! Does anyone know why? There is anything I can do in Cura 4.4 to print as good as cura 3.6? I attach a picture with both prints. Thank you veru much! Ricard
  22. I bought a second hand ultimaker 3 extended and noticed it has some ringing or inconsistencies in the y axis. The wall along the x axis looks smooth, but the wall along the y axis looks really rough. Shiny black exaggerates the imperfections, but you can also feel the roughness with your finger and it is visible in other colors. The walls are printed with the default cura profile with a 0.4mm nozzle and 80mm/s speed (30mm/s outer wall speed). Printing slower makes it less pronounced, but even if i print at 20mm/s outer wall speed the y axis looks still worse than the x axis. On my old printer, a wanhao 4x, the outer walls look and feel about as good as the x axis of the ultimaker. Both x and y axis look about the same. It is printed at the same outer wall speed. I suspected it might be a bad Y axis bearing. So i replaced it, and also replaced the rod, just to be sure. Unfortunately nothing changed and the prints looks just as bad as before on the y axis. The ringing or inconsistencies are also clearly visible in this benchy (a part is painted gray). Benchy with rough walls on the y axis, printed in the defualt 0.15mm profile I then printed a bearing from pla, which probably won't last very long. But it did improve the quality of the y axis. It is a lot smoother. Not a great long term solution. Pla bearing and y axis wall with pla bearing Is there something else wrong with my printer or do all ultimaker 3's print this bad on the y axis? Does anyone else has this problem? I attached the test file i used in case anyone wants to test it on their ultimaker 3 (extended). The filament I used is ice pla black but the problem also happens with other filaments. vertical artifacts2.3mf
  23. I'm selling my UM 3 Extended as I'm not using it much. Print Time - heads say < 5 days each In original (but tatty) box Included printer with original heads (3 total) 1. a few rolls of ABS material + what is left of original (1 x Black ABS slightly used, 1 x White ABS Slightly used, 1 x Red ABS unopened, Original silver - not much left - original support material not much left.) - all rolls are original Ultimaker. 2. Enhanced Print Kit (1 extra print plates/glass + Front Cover) 3. few head cleaner sticks. Will ship anywhere EU at cost price insured/signed for. Parcel(s) are heavy so not cheap to ship. Payment PayPal (Verified PayPal only or Bank Transfer @ your cost) Printer can be seen/inspected in Kew, Greater London TW9. Company Invoice without VAT (company not VAT registered) - no official warranty apart from it work :) Will be listed on eBay later if no response here: (eBay account : kaz911 - 100% since 1998) Price GBP 2300 OBO/OHB
  24. Hallo, kann ich im Dualdruck irgendwo einstellen wann die inaktive Düse wieder anfangen soll sich aufzuheizen? Aktuell ist es so, dass sie sich so im letzten Viertel der aktuell zu druckenden Schicht wieder anfängt aufzuheizen. Dann kommt natürlich immer wieder Material unten raus, was mir dann über das gedruckte Objekt geschoben wird. Wenn dann umgeschaltet wird, ist die zuvor aktive Düse noch so warm, dass auch aus ihr wieder Material kommt was mir dann schön am Druckteil abgestreift wird. (Oozeshield ist nicht aktiv und auch nicht gewünscht) Ich dachte eigentlich immer, dass sie sich erst aufheizt/abkühlt wenn sie umgeschalten wird. Das oben genannten Szenario natürlich schnellere Druckzeit bedeutet, ist mir klar. Ich kann aber mit ner Wartezeit zwischen inaktive Düse aufheizen und aktive Düse abkühlen, gut und gerne leben.
  25. Selling Ultimaker 3 Extended due to switching to resin-printing. This is an original machine (no customization) with 0.4 printcores (AA + BB). Price : 2.950 Euro Very good overall state of the machine. Firmware see images (dated 29-12-2019) Testing and pickup of the UM3 extended in Belgium - Sankt Vith (triangle Belgium/Luxemburg/Germany). Requests for information in Dutch, English or German. Extra : 0.8 core AA + BB 0.4 core AA Approx. 7kg of 2.85mm filament (mostly PLA) Approx. 1.2kg of 2.85mm PVA filament
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