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  1. Hello All, I thought I was going to get to 3D printing tonight, and just like any printer that hasn't been used in a few years and was updated, it's now non-functional. When I set up the printer from storage, the power switch was already on, so it just powered on right away, but that should affect what I'm about to explain. I think it probably just jumped too far up on this update and now is corrupted. So, I downloaded the latest Cura as any sane person would do, went through the normal motions of installing, and then checked for firmware and then proceeded to update. T
  2. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  3. Ik heb "opdracht" gekregen om een Ultimaker Original (volgens mij) aan de praat te krijgen om vervolgens weer te gaan gebruiken op een basisschool. 3D printers zijn voor mij nieuw, dus ik dacht aansluiten en kijken wat ie doet. Hij gaat wel aan, het display licht op, maar ik zie geen menu of iets. Als ik op het knopje druk op de controller dan hoor ik een piepje en als ik aan de knop draai zie ik niets gebeuren. Op mijn laptop heb ik Cura geïnstalleerd (laatste versie) en die kan wel goed verbinden met de 3D printer. Ik heb de firmware succesvol kunnen updaten. Echter als ik de pri
  4. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  5. Hi All, Although I am the first owner of my UMO, I am no way an expert. I have been making things, but I am not happy with the results. In hindsight printing always has been troublesome. Let's say mixed results. But more and more I am using the printer in projects and I have seen much better print quality than what I get. Often I have vertical outer walls not connected, or the top layer not showing a closed surface. So a simple print quality topic? No! Recently I printed 3 clamps and Cura told me they should weigh 59 grams. I doubted that and so put the clamps on the scales. It turne
  6. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan contr
  7. I woke up this morning to my print being prematurely halted and my UMO ulticontroller stating "error: max temp". I turned off the printer then turned it back on to restart the print. Print started fine, but when I came back 20 mins later the same error message was there and my nozzle said it was well over 300 C! Why is my printer giving this error about max temp? How can I fix it?
  8. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  9. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three in
  10. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  11. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare noz
  12. Hello everybody, My Ultimaker Original Has some modifications like DIY Hot Bed (with 100K thermistor), axes motors outside the machine and so on. I generally modify my firmware from the "firmware builder" provided by this website. I'm now working on a new concept for a better usage of my second nozzle and I need to activate the pins from 8 to 13 that are not used by my board so far (version 1.5.7.). I've wired them to make some experiments: I've connected a LEd to see if they can be activated, they blink twice when I turn my printer on. But I don't know how to use them, I guess I need
  13. Version 1.0.0

    27 downloads

    This is a bin to fit in the door pockets of a MK1 Nissan Qashqai (2007-2013) The bin is primarily designed for the front door, to fit where a drink bottle is intended to go. It will also fit the back door. The Qashqai has nowhere to put sweet papers and other small pieces of litter, hence this bin. I printed this in black PLA on my UMO with a layer thickness of 0.25.
  14. Hi there, i am upgrading my ultimaker orginal from standart dual extrusion to a rotary printhead. I got inspired of the rotary printhead long time ago but i did never started to design my own one for the ultimaker till now. here are some videos which inspired me: My goals are: -having fun -no oozing -fast switching between heads -very light printhead to keep the accelaration high -printing without prime tower, ooze shield... to save print time -using magnets for rotary fixing -using the x-axis to switch between the heads -get a easy to print design in the end so
  15. Hallo, habe heute meinen Ultimaker Original nach einigen Stunden zusammenbauen das erste mal angesteckt, und angeschalten. Leider hat nur die LED der Platine am Hotend geleuchtet, der UltiController hatte nur ein blaues Display mit zwei weißen Streifen in den Zeilen 1 und 3 angezeigt, und die Motoren haben "vibriert" und komische Geräusche gemacht. Ich habe dann die Anschlüsse des UltiControllers geprüft, der Stecker mit der Bezeichnung EXP1 ging auf EXP1 und EXP2 auf EXP2. Dann habe ich das Gerät noch einmal angeschalten, und bemerkt, dass die Schrittmotortreiber nach etwa 4-5 Sek
  16. Hello everyone, I'm very very new to the 3d printing world (a couple of months actually), so the machine-related problems are new to me as well. I'm working with an Ultimaker Original whose problem is that during the print, it suddently stops extruding material. I noticed that the feeder is not pushing the material inside the extruder but sometimes the melted plastic starts flowing only if I push manually, sometimes it doesn't. The material seems deformed inside the nozzle, with a "waterdrop"-like shape. I'm using PLA, I tried to print with 210° C and then I lowered it to 190° but th
  17. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1
  18. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affo
  19. I made a custom heated bead for my Ultimaker Original, it has worked for about a year with out an issue. Unfortunately the bed Thermistor shorted with the bed power cable today, neither the Thermistor nor the arduino mega was damaged, though I replaced both anyway. Now the issue that I have, is that the bed temperature shows approximately 800°c and thus causes a max temperature error, this is the same temperature that is displayed when no Thermistor is connected as well as if I connect 100k ohm resistor (its a 100k thermistor, so should show 25°c). This leaves the ultimaker control
  20. Hi everybody! I'm currently modding my UMO with 2 nozzles using a similar concept used by the Ultimaker3 (retracting second extruder). But I have some issue to set it properly on Cura. I cannot set the gap between the nozzles (i just can set the Z offset between nozzle and the bed and it can be not different fron a nozzle to the other). As you can image i need to tell to cura "change the hight of the bed when use the second extruder" and also "Go to a specific X/Y position before change extruder" to trig the second extruder to pop up. How to do that? P.S. If it go
  21. Recently, the readings of the thermistor on my UMO are limited. A completely cold printhead will show ~120°C, when heating up this value does not change until the printhead actually reaches ~120°C. Then the temperature readings seem to be accurate within a margin of error. This all wouldn't be a problem, if the printer wouldn't abort heating before the printhead reached said thereshold. Of course the first thought is about a defect component, so I replaced: The thermistor The thermocouple The Ultiboard The Arduino I also checked the cables, of co
  22. Hi all, This is my first time posting here so if there is anything I don't do correctly please let me know. Thanks! So I am working on adding a DIY heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. I am going the route of basically recreating the HBK on my own. By this I mean I got the aluminum build platform and UM2 style heatbed. The heatbed I got stated it had a 100k thermistor built in. My current design consists of the heatbed powered directly from a 24v power supply which is switched via a Solid State DC relay by the Ultimaker board. I have the relay hooked up to the "Heatbed" screw
  23. As the title says. Hopefully someone has prior knowledge or easy access to this info. I would like to explain my need to know. Some time ago I rigged my hot end up with a print cooling manifold that's supplied by compressed air. It's lighter and provides improved cooling capacity with an even 'spray'. It's connected to my air compressor at about 60psi and supplied by a hose added to the bowden bundle. The weakness of the setup is that the only means of control is by manually adjusting a small thumb screw needle valve. It can range from off to a lot of cooling I wan
  24. So i have been trying to do the esteps for my umo+ The initial e-step value is +836.0 I asked for 100mm filament in the printer and i got only 45mm ! I made the equation and i got 1857.77 as a new value for my esteps wich is too high i think. Now each time i ask the printer to extrude filament, it starts retracting after that.... Too much issues in one poeration :) can anyone help?
  25. Hi, I want to learn how to to do the e-steps for my umo+ but i cant figure out how to extrude filament from Marlin firmware. Is there a specific firmware version that i should use? Thanks
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