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Found 17 results

  1. Hi everyone! Does anyone have any guides/resources on how I'd go about retrofitting (where do I even buy them) UM2 kits for my UMO+? Thanks in advance!
  2. Hi everyone! I have several questions about the E3D upgrade for my UMO+! I'll list them below so people can answer them directly: Can I use a 12v version? If not, why? If I upgrade the extruder (to 1.7mm), can I get the 1.7mm version? If I use the original heating parts from the UMO+ and add that to the E3D, will I bypass the MOSFET changing? What other methods can I use to change from 2.85mm to 1.75mm? Is the E3D good for PLA/ABS? What is the deal with the Olsson Ruby Nozzle? Sorry if that was a lot of questions, I just needed to clarify everything before I buy the E3D for my UMO+. I hope that @neotko and @amedee have some suggestions... Thanks for your time and response!
  3. Occasionally my UMO+ extruder head gets PLA filament clogged between the teflon coupler (D), PEEK (E), and bowden tube. When I do an atomic pull at 80-90C, I always get a deformed bit of filament about 3.5mm from the tip of the nozzle (see picture). This seems to be at the space within the PEEK where the teflon coupler above stops and the brass pipe (C) that screws into the bottom of the PEEK stops. The filament is always forms an offset notch that I can't seem to get rid of even after disassembly and verifying that the teflon coupler is perfectly round and the brass pipe is screwed in until it is stopped from further screwing in by the flange on the brass pipe. The clog I am experiencing stops filament from extruding during a print and it seems like the filaments gets stuck where the notch and no longer keeps feeding to the nozzle. The remaining liquid filament drips out of the nozzle and an air gap is left in the new void in the brass pipe and nozzle. The heat then travels up the stuck filament and it expands and gets further stuck in the bowden tube where meets the teflon coupler. I print PLA at 205-210C and the clog seems to occur more at the higher temperatures but not reliably predictable. 😞 So I actually have two questions: 1. How can I prevent this clog? 2. Is the filament's deformed notch normal for the UMO+? It doesn't look right for retraction. Thanks.
  4. Hey everyone, i recently got a used UMO dual extrusion for cheap and took it as an opportunity to get into 3D printing, so i'm still quite new to the whole topic. So far it was a bumpy road, but i got most things to work. Currently i'm trying to print with the second extruder, later on i want to try printing using both extruders, but currently i just want to be able to print in different colors without the need of swapping the filament. The problem is that as soon as the print starts the extruder will just not move anymore, i can extract filament via the Terminal and also using Octoprints Control UI, it will also execute the extrusion and retraction at the very beginning of the print, but as soon as it should start printing the extruder won't move at all anymore. I also think i know what the Problem is, i took a look at the GCODE (see below) and found that after the gcode switches to Tool 0 (in line 6) it doesn't switch back to Tool 1 ever. Even if i disable Extruder 1 in Cura completely it'll still swap to Extruder 1 in the gcode and not swap back. So i guess my question is, is there any way to fix this? Is it even possible printing only with Extruder 2? Cheers and thx for the help in advance ✌️ [...] # startups T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E6 ;extrude 6 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F200 E-16 T0 ;Switch to the 1st extruder G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E6 ;extrude 6 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:7 ;LAYER:0 M107 M104 T1 S200 G0 F3600 X65.166 Y55.881 Z0.3 M104 S185 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 G1 F1800 X65.554 Y55.473 E0.01059 G1 X65.879 Y55.171 E0.01894 [...] # rest of the print
  5. I did a bed leveling print for my Ultimaker original and seeing that the infill doesn't meet the sides and leaves a bit of space usually on one side. My suspicion is that the steps are off on maybe the x or y. Hoping someone can help me diagnose it before I make it worse changing the e-steps for one of the axis.
  6. Not completely sure about the current firmware updates for the orginals, as a few of mine have custom updates. But, I was wondering if anyone has tinkered or seen the example configurations on the marlin github (Configurations/config/examples/Ultimaker at import-2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Configurations · GitHub). There use to be a way to just update the whole thing to Marlin 2.0 without doing another configure file. I know that there is the custom firmware builder, but I'm not sure if its been updated to Marlin 2.0 and includes the advanced features available. Looking on the github it says that the changes were five years ago, which doesn't make sense since there was an error that was just updated the beginning of this year. Anyways, just wanted to know if the update has improved the printer, its safety, and if the added features help. This is the link for the example page: Configurations/config/examples/Ultimaker at import-2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Configurations · GitHub For the custom firmware builder: Marlin Ultimaker Generator (bulles.eu) Tom's upgrade video: Easily upgrade the Marlin firmware on your kit 3D printer! - YouTube
  7. Hi everyone, I have been doing some hours on my UMO+ recently (I know it's old) but have had print stop at the initial layers because of filament messes such as the one attached. I have disabled retraction but the problem still persists. @neotko or anyone else, would you have any suggestions to the prevention of this problem?
  8. Hi, For some reason the power supply board on my Original + upgrade went short circuit last week. I found the circled rectifier to be shorted and is now replaced - the LED D40 now lights green but the power jack labelled 19V is only measuring 5V. The 24V input is measuring correctly. All external cables are removed, any ideas what else could be wrong or if I need to do something else to see 19V at the jack? Thanks for any pointers.
  9. my UO+ prints very well but stops printing abruptly quite quickly, with different files on different sd cards. 1 of the lines of thought is a defective SD reader. I'm looking for a sketch to test the UO+ sd card reader (before buying a new Ulti Panel). Can someone help me ? thanks in advance, Gerrit
  10. Hi guys, I am having a problem: I recently started working at a school with a dusty old UMO. Most functions seem to work properly, but I am having trouble with the motors. When using Cura to move the X/Y, they are working just fine. But after I do a Z-home, they do not work and start producing electric noises. The problems: the motors start missing steps. When moving by 100mm for example, they move for 1 second, pause for 1 second, and move for 1 second. This means it doesn't complete the 100mm movement. Also, it starts making noises like a capacitor overcharges and discharges, or something overheats, I am not sure. Can anyone please help me? The UMO is quite old and rusty and I do not have much experience with it. Any help appreciated!
  11. Hi guys, So I’ve got this old machine printing, however some of the prints weren’t great. Here’s what I’ve done so far. I’ve put a new 0.4mm nozzle and ensured the feed tube is completely free. I’ve repositioned the X axis limit switch 5mm to the right as the nozzle block hit the frame. It now auto homes without issue. I printed a cube and it was leaning to the left slightly, so I used my callipers and noticed the Y axis wasn’t straight, so undid and adjusted the truck to get it as straight as possible. I’ve lowered the print speed from 60mm/s to 50mm/s printing PLA with temps of 60/200. I’m using cura and I’d prefer quality over speed, what can I change/ adjust to improve the quality of the prints. I’ve also levelled the bed and used the paper pinch technique cura says.
  12. Hi All, I've very recently acquired a Ultimaker Original plus printer from a friend and I'm having some issues with the PLA feeder. I've used a brand new sealed reel of PLA, removed the bowden tube off the feeder and it still wont feed the PLA up, I can't even feel the PLA up using the manual extrude wheel. If I apply pressure like in the first picture, I can manually feed the PLA through the feeder, however when I release the pressure, it no longer feeds. The little latch that comes down, should this hold the black part where the thumb is in tight or be loose? is this a friction fit part or does that just simply stop the black roller part on the pivot from dropping down? Could the black roller ball be warn ( picture 2) enough that it doesn't contact the PLA against the knurled roller? In picture 3, it shows the locking latch in a horizontal position, does this fit tightly between the two upright plastic parts? Thank you all.
  13. Hi everyone, First post here! I've tried to print with my Ultimaker Original + but the printer gave Err: Maxtemp. So I decided to change the heater cables. Turned the printer back on and it seems to be fine until the bed couldn't heat up. So I panicked. And here I am. This is a printer I bought but I've only ever worked with Ultimaker 3+'s from school. All help appriciated.
  14. I dug out a UM original But the previous owner has supplied the wrong springs (yellow) . They are too long and too hard Does anyone have an idea which ones might fit
  15. When doing some other repairs on my UMO+ I managed to damage the connector on my heated bed, resulting in detaching all soldering connections (yeah, stupid, I know). Obviously I want to fix this, so I can bring my printer back to life. Only I'm not much of a hero in soldering electronics (and missing the right tools), and I'm not sure if it can actually reverse the damage done. So I think my best option is to replace the entire bed with a new one. But every UM upgrade kit out there is either sold out or sold for ridiculously high prices, so that's not an option. My only source so far seems to be Chinese webshops (link) or eBay (link). So I have two questions for you: Is this a reliable replacement part? And will it work on my UMO+ without any major changes (voltage, connectors, UMO+ vs UM2, etc)? Do you have any experience ordering from these kinds of sources? Or do you know of any good alternatives for sourcing a new heated bed (for a reasonable price)?
  16. I have an UMO+ that I have had for 4/5 years now and I think my nozzle has finally had it after printing a load of Carbonfill. So over the last half a decade there seems to be a lot of changes so I'm hoping that someone can give me an idea of my best option. I wanted to get a hardened steel nozzle but it seems that they don't make them for the UMO+? So how much of the hot end do I need to swap out to use more up to date nozzles? I can't actually tell if the replacement hot end kits I've seen are just a replacement that puts me back where I started or will allow me to use different nozzles. Any advice appreciated.
  17. Hello! I'm facing a new issue with my UMO+ after years of good jobs: it stops randomly and I can't find why. The prints start normally and before the end of the job almost everytime the printhead suddenly stops moving, the screen becomes blue with nothing displayed for a few seconds, before going back to normal as if I just turned it on, and the build plate can go down. I can get very small prints to the end but when I relaunch it the second time this problem occurs. I've no idea of where it can come from. I wanted to update the firmware but I can't connect it to Cura via usb. It's not detected, no connection sound and it does not appear in the software window. (I'm now using ubuntu as an OS, maybe that's the reason of this last issue?) Thank you in advance for your help and hope my explanations were clear!
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