Jump to content
UltiMaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'UMO(+)'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type

3D printing forums

  • General
    • Official news
  • Ultimaker products
    • Ultimaker Cura
    • Ultimaker 3D printers
    • Ultimaker Software
    • Third party products & modifications
  • 3D print Questions
    • Improve your 3D prints
    • Design for Additive Manufacturing
    • Industries
  • User Lounge
    • What have you made
    • Coffee corner
    • Buying or selling your Ultimaker
  • Languages
    • Nederlands
    • Deutsch
    • Español
    • Français
    • Italiano
    • Japanese - 日本語
    • Other Languages

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



3D printer

About Me



On The Web

  1. Hallo zusammen, ich wollte mal nachfragen ob jemand schon die oben genannten Materialien mit dem Ultimaker Orginal gedruckt hat. Und somit Erfahrung gesammelt habt. Bei meinem Ultimaker Orginal ist ein Heizbett nachgerüstet somit sollte es doch ohne Probleme möglich sein TPU 95 A zu drucken. Ultimaker TPU 95 A Eigenschaften: Drucktemperatur 230-235°C Heizbett 60°C Außerdem muss es doch möglich sein PC zu drucken. Ultimaker PC Eigenschaften Drucktemperatur 270-285°C Heizbett 107°C Laut Ultimaker angaben sind diese Materialien ja nicht für den Orginal geeignet. Jedoch müsste es doch mit den richtigen Einstellungen und Tricks funktioniernen. Deshalb frage ich hier nach ob es möglich ist diese Materialien zu drucken und wenn mit welchen Tricks. Vielen Dank im voraus Gruß Tim
  2. For many years i still use my heavily upgraded umo every day pleasure, but now with my last upgrade, the revo hemera xs, i cannot found the right temperature probe semitec 104nt-4 and aslo not the e3d advised temperature table PT100/ PT1000 with MAX31865 in the marlin build that i use from amedeebulle https://github.com/AmedeeBulle/Marlin/tree/Marlin_UM_Original_Plus sadly I'm not that educated in marlin, but can anyone tell me if it is possible to add the right temperature table, or maybe another build that fit with my ultimainboard rev 2.1.4?
  3. Hi, Just fired up an old Ultimaker Original from my son's school to fix the extruder and thought to run an update via Cura. But now it is stuck in a blank screen (only blockes shown). Argh, typical "why did I do that??". Can someone provide me with an original firmware (build) file? I tried to build one in Visual Studio from Marlin V1 firmware, but somehow I get errors. It's beyond my knowledge what is wrong. Thanks!
  4. Que tal querida comunidad, Necesito de su ayuda. He impreso diferentes archivos y pues al parecer hay una falla en mi impresora adjunto imagenes. al parecer las capas no estan bien ubicadas una sobre otra y acaba siendo una mala impresion. algun consejo o sugerencia. Gracias.
  5. Hello, I have a Ultimaker Original with a 2.1.4 board. I put a UM2 head on it and the fans don't spin all the way on full power. Checked the main fans and the voltage I getting is 6V, which is half or fourth of what I should. The hotend fan isnt working either when the temp goes above 5V. I flashed the firmware with that from the custom builder (bUltimaker builder) and also tried to compile one of my own. Not sure how to fix it and wondering if there was something that would work. Thanks!
  6. Has anyone modified their printer with a pt100 thermistor? the documentation says that you need 5v to make it work. I wanted to do two of them so not sure how to go about that.
  7. Looks interesting. Seems like a simple make with a servo and stepper motor. Probably could get it to work with an Arduino or raspberry pi.
  8. Hi, first post here. I am working with a Ultimaker Original at my workspace and trying to bring it back to life. Everything was working and suddenly the extruder motor stopped moving. We have run some tests and the motor itself seems to be fine, as it moves if we connect it to another motors' connector in the main board, all X, Y and Z motors work properly. So, our suspicion is that something went wrong inside the board that only affects this motor. My two questions: 1) Any possible reasons why the board stopped working only with this motor? 2) I noticed the board has an extra connector for a second extruder, is there a way I could modify Marlin to switch and use this other connector instead of the original? I know there's a way to add the second extruder, but not if it can be used independently (hope this makes sense) Thank for any info or help, Alfredo.
  9. Hi everyone! I've got a UMO+ and wanted to get some timely upgrades for it. I got reading through some history and found some upgrades, all of which have been doing me well.... One of my final ones is this one: YouMagine – Symmetric Dual Fans UMO/UMO+ 30mm / 40mm / 50mm by Neotko / Sugarpop! – YouMagine 🔧 In the description of that one, it does give a link to some instructions. I click on the link to find that it gives an error. Can anyone fill me in on what's happened and more pressingly, put in the a) working link or b) instructions c) give me their instruction as to how I'm supposed to do it. broken link: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20503-ultimaker-original-dual-fans-upgrade Kind Regards and thank you!
  10. [UPDATE] "prehistoric" also refers to the state of the grease along the lead screw and the z nut. it was all caked up and dried and made the z stepper loose steps. removing it, a deep clean and some new high-quality oil solved the problem. Amazing to see a decade old UM still working great. ------------------- My (ancient) UM2 heated bed just gave up yesterday (separate topic), and I am trying to reactivate my (prehistoric) UMO, which i haven't used since I got the UM2 in 2015. A lot of the finessing and how to tweak gcode knowledge has been lost since then. Problem: i need to get something printed today... I got the GMO to home and heat up, and theoretically print again. home (0) is set to paper sheet thickness under the nozzle. I think the FW is a marlin flavor from 2014, but if there is a newer one, I can flash it (open to suggestions). I would prefer to not change the FW, because I am sure I tweaked a lot of parameters (dim, accel, pid etc) to a T for productions prints between 2011 and 2013) something is wrong in the starting gcode, and the UMO prints mid air (about 15mm above the print bed). I used the original start gcode I found in Cura5, and also tried to change it, but no luck. would appreciate some pointers how to fix the start and end gcode, as well as what settings/flavors i should change in cura5 (i.e. relative or absolute E? etc). it appears the line "G1 Z0 Y50 F9000 ;move the bed and the head" doesn't move the bed back to 0. Help please
  11. Good afternoon everyone. My much loved UMO has been idle now for a year, everything is being handled by the UM3/3X. I'm faced with either selling the unit as is or potentially upgrading it. I purchased this second hand, it had an attempt at a heated table and the Z screw is not ultimaker OEM. It prints fine, in some ways still more accurately and quickly than the UM3. That said, I haven't had much luck finding an official heated bed mod for it and firmware mods are complicated by the Z screw. I (perhaps mistakenly) wonder if the quickest path is to update this to UMO+ if possible. Is that practical? The other direction is simply to sell it at a discount to someone who knows what they are doing with Ultimakers, so they can apply mods themselves. Thoughts? Thanks! John
  12. Hey there! in my class we are doing 3d sculpting. 3 People and I am doing the Printing Part. Today we have looked for an 3d Printer, which was the Ultimaker Original Plus (not sure about which version exactly). We don't know the state of it. The Teacher just told us, that it is like warping into one direction and as you can see from the title our Ultimaker Original Plus is not working at all. It won't raise the Floor, I can not control it using the Monitor tab, it will not show me any temperature, the Nozzle won't heat up. The Screen on the Printer lights up but won't show any Text or information. We don't really know what we can do. The Comuter Science Teacher told us there is an Arduino Built In. So is there a way we can try to control every Pin in the Arduino to just search like what is broken? Is there any other way to fix it? Tomorrow I will make some Photos and Videos to just Further explain it.
  13. By using Cura 4.13.1, I can not export a printfile to a g-code because of the error: Could not save f:/UMO_palmtree-2-final/gcode. Please prepare G-code before exporting. What do I have to do? And how??
  14. I haven't used my UMO+ for a while, since I messed up my heated bed. I haven't been able to figure out what messed up my bed, even with replacement parts. But for the time being I want to run it without the heated bed, so I can at least get back to basic prints. I know printing without a heated bed isn't optimal, but at least it should work. I've reinstalled everything, but disconnected the bed. However, I get the MAXTEMP error when I turn on my printer. How do I get my printer to ignore the error and run without the bed? I read something about firmware changes, but I can't figure out what to change?
  15. Bonjour à vous, J'ai actuellement un petit soucis sur mon Ultimaker Original +. Les 2 ventilateurs de soufflerie (oui car upgradée en UM2+) de pièce se sont mis à ne plus fonctionner du jour au lendemain (résultat d'impression PLA très moche...!). J'ai lancé une demande de refroidissement par les menus et les ventilateurs ne se déclenchaient plus. J'ai bien sûr vérifié le câblage (maladie du connecteur), les ventilateurs (testé d'autres), et j'ai ensuite contrôlé la tension aux bornes de mon connecteur Fan Power. J'ai donc bien 24V, et lorsque je lance une demande de refroidissement par les menus, plus la fréquence de rotation demandée est élevée plus ma tension baisse.... Ayant une carte mère HS 2.1.4, j'ai tenté de dessouder le T1 (FAN POWER) de celle-ci, afin de le ressouder sur ma carte actuelle identique. Soudure presque parfaite et tout s'est bien passé. Sauf.... 🙂 Lorsque j'ai remis le jus sur ma carte, tout était ok, mais sauf que lorsque j'ai fait une demande de refroidissement par les menus, j'ai alors entendu un petit clac... Probablement T1 qui a relâché...!? Est-ce qu'il aurait fallu que je change D5 aussi en même temps? Si c'est le cas il me reste T2 et D6 (LED POWER) de la carte HS afin de tenter de les remplacer de nouveau sur ma carte actuelle. Qu'en dites vous? J'aimerai savoir comment pouvoir résoudre ce soucis si quelqu'un à une idée. Je vous remercie d'avance de vos réponses. Reunce ;-)
  16. I want to adjust the X and Y axis of my Ultimaker Original so that they stop in time. How do I do this? -Translated- De X en Y as van mijn Ultimaker Original wil ik afstellen zodat ze tijdig stoppen. Hoe doe ik dit?
  17. (translate): I would like to buy a new nozzle for my ultimaker original, but I have no idea what size it is. I can't see anything online that I should actually need to buy. Could someone help me? 🙂🙃 Ik zou graag een nieuwe nozzle kopen voor mijn ultimaker original, maar heb geen idee welke maat het is. Kan ook online niet vinden welke ik eigenlijk moet kopen. Zou iemand mij kunnen helpen?
  18. Hi fellows! I just saw this video and thought I'd share it here 🙂 Youtube link / by Rolohaun Channel Thinking to make it with an BMG extruder. Also did not decide if as direct drive or bowden but I will convert to 1.75mm. Any tip or direction or maybe a topic recomendation? I hope to find time soon to dive into Kipper or find an alternative for this setup with silent TMCs and “easy to find” spare parts since I live far away from the UM sources. Cheers! Fernando Gazzola 3dSolid_br
  19. Hi everyone! Does anyone have any guides/resources on how I'd go about retrofitting (where do I even buy them) UM2 kits for my UMO+? Thanks in advance!
  20. Hi everyone! I have several questions about the E3D upgrade for my UMO+! I'll list them below so people can answer them directly: Can I use a 12v version? If not, why? If I upgrade the extruder (to 1.7mm), can I get the 1.7mm version? If I use the original heating parts from the UMO+ and add that to the E3D, will I bypass the MOSFET changing? What other methods can I use to change from 2.85mm to 1.75mm? Is the E3D good for PLA/ABS? What is the deal with the Olsson Ruby Nozzle? Sorry if that was a lot of questions, I just needed to clarify everything before I buy the E3D for my UMO+. I hope that @neotko and @amedee have some suggestions... Thanks for your time and response!
  21. Occasionally my UMO+ extruder head gets PLA filament clogged between the teflon coupler (D), PEEK (E), and bowden tube. When I do an atomic pull at 80-90C, I always get a deformed bit of filament about 3.5mm from the tip of the nozzle (see picture). This seems to be at the space within the PEEK where the teflon coupler above stops and the brass pipe (C) that screws into the bottom of the PEEK stops. The filament is always forms an offset notch that I can't seem to get rid of even after disassembly and verifying that the teflon coupler is perfectly round and the brass pipe is screwed in until it is stopped from further screwing in by the flange on the brass pipe. The clog I am experiencing stops filament from extruding during a print and it seems like the filaments gets stuck where the notch and no longer keeps feeding to the nozzle. The remaining liquid filament drips out of the nozzle and an air gap is left in the new void in the brass pipe and nozzle. The heat then travels up the stuck filament and it expands and gets further stuck in the bowden tube where meets the teflon coupler. I print PLA at 205-210C and the clog seems to occur more at the higher temperatures but not reliably predictable. 😞 So I actually have two questions: 1. How can I prevent this clog? 2. Is the filament's deformed notch normal for the UMO+? It doesn't look right for retraction. Thanks.
  22. Hey everyone, i recently got a used UMO dual extrusion for cheap and took it as an opportunity to get into 3D printing, so i'm still quite new to the whole topic. So far it was a bumpy road, but i got most things to work. Currently i'm trying to print with the second extruder, later on i want to try printing using both extruders, but currently i just want to be able to print in different colors without the need of swapping the filament. The problem is that as soon as the print starts the extruder will just not move anymore, i can extract filament via the Terminal and also using Octoprints Control UI, it will also execute the extrusion and retraction at the very beginning of the print, but as soon as it should start printing the extruder won't move at all anymore. I also think i know what the Problem is, i took a look at the GCODE (see below) and found that after the gcode switches to Tool 0 (in line 6) it doesn't switch back to Tool 1 ever. Even if i disable Extruder 1 in Cura completely it'll still swap to Extruder 1 in the gcode and not swap back. So i guess my question is, is there any way to fix this? Is it even possible printing only with Extruder 2? Cheers and thx for the help in advance ✌️ [...] # startups T1 ;Switch to the 2nd extruder G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E6 ;extrude 6 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F200 E-16 T0 ;Switch to the 1st extruder G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E6 ;extrude 6 mm of feed stock G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again G1 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... G92 E0 G92 E0 G1 F1500 E-6.5 ;LAYER_COUNT:7 ;LAYER:0 M107 M104 T1 S200 G0 F3600 X65.166 Y55.881 Z0.3 M104 S185 ;TYPE:SKIRT G1 F1500 E0 G1 F1800 X65.554 Y55.473 E0.01059 G1 X65.879 Y55.171 E0.01894 [...] # rest of the print
  23. I did a bed leveling print for my Ultimaker original and seeing that the infill doesn't meet the sides and leaves a bit of space usually on one side. My suspicion is that the steps are off on maybe the x or y. Hoping someone can help me diagnose it before I make it worse changing the e-steps for one of the axis.
  24. Not completely sure about the current firmware updates for the orginals, as a few of mine have custom updates. But, I was wondering if anyone has tinkered or seen the example configurations on the marlin github (Configurations/config/examples/Ultimaker at import-2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Configurations · GitHub). There use to be a way to just update the whole thing to Marlin 2.0 without doing another configure file. I know that there is the custom firmware builder, but I'm not sure if its been updated to Marlin 2.0 and includes the advanced features available. Looking on the github it says that the changes were five years ago, which doesn't make sense since there was an error that was just updated the beginning of this year. Anyways, just wanted to know if the update has improved the printer, its safety, and if the added features help. This is the link for the example page: Configurations/config/examples/Ultimaker at import-2.0.x · MarlinFirmware/Configurations · GitHub For the custom firmware builder: Marlin Ultimaker Generator (bulles.eu) Tom's upgrade video: Easily upgrade the Marlin firmware on your kit 3D printer! - YouTube
  25. Hi everyone, I have been doing some hours on my UMO+ recently (I know it's old) but have had print stop at the initial layers because of filament messes such as the one attached. I have disabled retraction but the problem still persists. @neotko or anyone else, would you have any suggestions to the prevention of this problem?
  • Create New...