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  1. I am using Cura to slice for a UMO+, equipped with a 1,8mm nozzle (drilled out a standard nozzle). The model I am using to print, is basically a cilinder that has a wall thickness of 1,8mm modeled into it. Needless to say, I want to print this with a single wall of 1,8 mm. When I slice it, Cura sends the nozzle around the circle twice, both times extruding filament, which results in a (sloppy) wall thickness of around 3,6 mm and horrible looking Z scar. As can be seen in the attached image, it isn't printing two perimeter lines next to each other as it would normally do, but printing the same line again in the same layer. It can be seen when clicking the play button in the layer view and when the printer is running. When I use the same settings with a closed solid model and let Cura determine wall thickness etc., it all works like I would expect, 1 perimeter line and nice clean print results. I think I have pretty much tried varying all the settings connected to the wall thickness (number of perimeters, compensate wall thickness, print thin lines, fill gaps etc, line width.) and the calculation of the number of perimeters. Also in the modeling of the wall thickness (tried slightly above and below 1,8). The obvious answer would be to use a closed solid, but I need some of the features that can only be included when modeling the wall thickness. Can anybody tell me why Cura will double extrude these lines? What could I change to get it to cleanly extrude the wall in a single line/pass?
  2. Hi, I have an ultimaker original plus that has something PLA filament stuck in the hot end isolator coupler and hot end isolator tube. I tried heating it up using the heating block. I tried soaking it in boiling water. I tried dripping some acetone into it but I can't get it unstuck. I'm in the US and I can't find any replacement parts that will ship to my location. Is there something else I can do or place I can find a replacement part? Thanks, Audrey
  3. I'd like to add LEDs to my UMO+ that I have running Marlin v2. Some other posts mention the Ultimainboard v2.1.1 used in the UMO+ having an LED PWM output that can be used. It would be nice to buy the correct adapter and solder the LED strip to the adapter for easy install and remove rather than solder the LED leads directly to the board and risk breaking something. There are some pictures on the internet showing the LED PWM connector but I haven't found the name of it yet. I've attached a photo with the port in question circled. What connector type is the LED PWM port using? Thanks.
  4. Hello everyone, For my project I am looking for a strong hard as well even little elastic filament that provides grip like rubber on a metal surface. I am trying to make a cnc suction cup that slides over a metal beam. The cup which is sucked through itself and get clamped by the expanding beam when enabled is yet to slippery if printed with abs. I thought of using PP but I dont know if that is grippy and I also consider using two different kinds of filaments in parts that later can be combined together by glue. Below some pictures of the cup. Can anyone help me out? Thanks and best regards, Bogaedo
  5. mijn UO+ print heel goed maar stopt vrij snel abrupt te printen, dit met verschillende files op verschillende sd-kaartjes. 1 van de denkpistes is een defecte sd-lezer. Ik ben op zoek naar een sketch om de sd kaartlezer te testen (alvorens over te gaan op de aankoop van een nieuwe Ulti Panel). Kan iemand mij die bezorgen ? dank bij voorbaat, Gerrit
  6. Recently got an Ultimaker Original+ and got it printing. Noticed that when I was printing a calibration for bed leveling that the lines werent matching or there were spaces. If it draws squares across the build plate, you see spaces between the lines or the lines of the squares dont always match up (ill include pictures when I get home). I also get surface artifacts or bumps on the straight lines on the calibration cube. Is this a cura problem, because I have it with my other Ultimaker original (that one prints cleanly), or is it the XY gantry system? I've tried to square it as much as possible and there is a bit of resistance towards the ends (if anyone knows a better way to square the gantry that would be great).
  7. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for better and better print quality, your eyes get drawn to smaller anomalies in the printed surface. Even with slow outer perimeter speeds and acceleration, I see ripples at sharp direction changes. I also see slight Z banding that I believe is from the bowden tube changing the print head height slightly. Supporting the print head with 8mm rods instead, will certainly increase stiffness. But also increase the inertial forces. My guess is that there is an optimal diameter... I just am not sure exactly where that lies. Has anyone put some serious thought into this? My calculations show that a 6mm rod weighs ~60g, while 8mm is ~105g. That is a total weight gain of ~90g. This weight gain is distributed evenly along the length of the shaft though, so not all of it contributes to inertial forces that deflect the shafts. Some is put fairly directly into the XY blocks themselves. I think it would be fair to say only ~75% of the increased inertial force works to bend the shafts. Misumi does have hollow 8mm linear motion shaft. The ID is 3mm, which doesn't reduce the weight all that much. Each shaft would drop from 105g to 90g. Not a bad reduction though. LM6UU = 8g and LM8UU = 13g. So another 10g of weight gain there, entirely on the head. So, we have added ~55g of weight to the head. (using hollow shaft) The next step would be to calculate and compare the increase in stiffness (reduced deflection), against the increase in acceleration forces, for a given realistic printer move...
  8. Hallo, mein UMO verstopft immer wieder oberhalb der Düse im Hotend. Ich habe schon mehrfach alles auseinander gebaut und darauf geachtet, das keine Spalte zwischen Düse und dem Röhrchen darüber sind. Der Schlauch ist auch neu und das Teflonteil auch. Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe Gruß Daniel
  9. Hallo Forum, Ich nutze einen UMO+ über Octoprint. Jedesmal wenn ich zum Bed-Levelling die Auto Home Funktion nutze, ist danach die Z-Achse blockiert. Um das Printbed wieder manuell bewegen zu können, muß ich den Drucker aus und wieder anschalten. Gibt es keine bessere Möglichkeit "Auto Home" wieder zu verlassen, oder bin ich einfach zu dumm? Gruß Uwe
  10. Wat zijn, afgezien van het 'omhulsel', de verschillen tussen een Ultimaker Original Plus en een Ultimaker 2? Vervolgvraag is dan ook, bij grote verschillen, is aanpassen naar een Ultimaker 2 goed te doen?
  11. Bonjour à tous je viens de monter un original + mais petit soucis en lançant un print à vide: le bed ne descends pas et l’identique X ou Y de fonctionne pas. Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
  12. Hello! I'm working as teacher with an Ultimaker Original (not the plus) but I don't have any experience with this kind of printer. My students are almost done designing and getting ready for printing. My question is; what do you think would be better (and faster)? Letting every student print his/her own design one after another? Or putting multiple designs in 1 big printtask? I ask this because I've seen other designs getting to hot, so the PLA 'deforms' or 'warps'...Sorry I dont know the correct word (But got picture of that) Not warped This side is warped Would love to hear from you people! Thanks in advance!
  13. Hi All, Just looking for some guidance from anyone on the following. I have a UMO with the + upgrade fitted. The LCD display has the typical dead spot making it unusable I have a UM2 PCB and display which i was going to use on a UM2 build but now want to swap in with the old UMO PCB and display Anyone have experience of this situation that help me (save me from bricking the new pcb) Thanks in advance Mark
  14. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  15. How do i get UMO+ usage data analytics? I try to get the data of how many hours used my printer but i couldnt find any information about it. Please help =)
  16. Hey there! I've been hoping to laser cut a custom Ultimaker Original Plus frame with the dimensions of an UM2 Extended, but I'm having issues sourcing the right materials. I'm in the US, and finding the right metric stuff is difficult. I think I may be able to get away with 1/4" thickness instead of 6mm, but I can't seem to find anything that's the right quality. The closest that I can find is some MDF, and I'd really prefer not to go down that route (moisture, not structurally great, etc). I'd also like to avoid acrylic, though I am making the side panels in frosted acrylic to look somewhat like newer Ultimakers. Here are the files that I'm basing this project on: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2275125 So far, I have checked Lowe's, Home Depot, ACE Hardware, various local laser cutters, laser suppliers online, Amazon, and Michaels. None of these places have the right grade of birch plywood I'm after. I emailed Ultimaker support, and they just linked me back to the Github page which only lists "Birch plywood" at 6mm thickness as the material. Further digging has led me to find that this type of material is Baltic birch - that's about all I know. I checked out a few more forum posts to see if anyone is in a similar situation as me, but didn't find them to be that helpful. I did see that someone used "dibond aluminum" which could be an interesting choice. So, long story short: Does anyone know of a US supplier of the material used to make the Ultimaker Original Plus frame? If I have to import from overseas, that's not ideal, but possible. P.S.: I am also considering modifying the front panel of the Original Plus to use the UM2 screen. No real reason, just for aesthetics and maybe quicker response time. Thought I'd throw this in to see if anyone has suggestions. Thank you so much! -Brent
  17. I'm selling my Ultimaker Original+ with heated bed for $199 or best offer. The last I used it, it worked. Two of the sliding blocks have a little damage but they work. The nozzle will need to be cleared before you start printing. Its a fun starter printer for someone who likes a project. I'm selling it because I bought a Form 2 printer, and now I print everything with that. If interested, let me know your location so I can calculate the shipping.
  18. Guten Tag zusammen, ich habe seit längerem ein größeres Problem mit meinem Ultimaker Original Plus und befürchte dieser Fehler tritt im Mainboard auf. Mittlerweile tritt dieser Fehler so oft auf, das kein Drucken mehr möglich ist. Das Problem betrifft einen Sprung auf der Y Achse den der Drucker ruckartig, oft (aber meines Wissens nicht immer) bei der nächsten Z Stufe macht. Hier ein Bild eines abgebrochenen Druckes aufgrund dieses Fehlers. (Die Verschiebungen weisen immer einen unregelmäßigen Abstand zueinander auf) Ausgeschlossen werden kann (da schon überprüft): Sprünge aufgrund von Riemenspannung oder lockeren Verschraubungen Fehler des Motors der y Aachse (Da x und y Motor getauscht selber Fehler weiterhin auf der y Aachse) Fehler im Stl Code (mehrere Dateien von unterschiedlichen Quellen überprüft) Fehler der Firmware und von Pc Programm (ältere und neuere Firmware von Cura sowie Cura Programme liefern selbe Fehler) Zu hohe Geschwindigkeiten und Beschleunigungen Fehler auf Sd Karte (da ich auch versucht habe direkt über den Rechner anzusteuern) Mechanische Bauteile und Komponenten Hat jemand einen Lösungsvorschlag oder weiß jemand wo der Fehler liegen könnte? Ein neues Mainboard (Ersatzteil) zu kaufen wäre meine einzige Idee. Was haltet ihr davon? Ich weiß echt nicht weiter und würde mich sehr über Hilfe freuen. Ich habe mittlerweile auch mehrfach Ultimaker angeschrieben allerdings gab es nie eine Antwort. Mit freundlichen Grüßen MadMax
  19. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan control options More accurate / smooth stepper motion Network connectivity More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features. Touchscreen support would be nice Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place. Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful. Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options. The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro. If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!
  20. Bonne année aux Ultimakers Nouveau sur ce forum Je me débrouille avec ma UMO+ montée sans gros problème voila plus d'un an. j'imprime avec des supports de portables un par un mais identiques et j'ai un défaut d'aspect sans raison. J'ai bien observé mon modèle .STL sous Sketchup Voila le défaut identique sur les 3 impressions bien que le .stl est été recompilé après la première impression (suite a une petite modif). Quelqu'un a déjà rencontré ce problème ou une idée? Merci fichiers joints : 1) modèle .stl en coupe 2) .jpg réalisation de face 3) .jpg défaut rayure face arrière
  21. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  22. Im selling my Ultimaker original which I worked on it two years ago. Never used by then because of a problem on the nozzle which is fixable for more information (pictures, discussion) send me email : spatial.tend@gmail.com
  23. So I've been thinking of upgrading my UMO+ cooling fan setup. My current machine is unmodified and only blows air from one direction, leaving the other side with something to be desired. I have what I feel to be a solid solution to this problem that doesn't have to do with modelling and printing a complex, melt-prone duct. I've been browsing Amazon and found these centrifugal PC fans that allow me to mount them in a very convenient way. I'll link them here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YH79Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2QQQKMKGVNA5E&th=1 I plan to use two of them in my theoretical setup: Conveniently, they're available in both 12V and 24V variants. As I'm aware, the UMO+ fan output voltage is 24V. Here's my ultimate question: Should I wire 2 24V fans in parallel or 2 12V fans in series? Or should I even use these fans at all; What fans would be ideal for this application? I've read it's really easy to fry the board if done incorrectly, so I want to know how to not do that. Thanks 😃
  24. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düsen und Heat-Blocks sind in Verwendung. Beide Düsen gehen bis 400°C und werden durch eine Wasserkühlung gekühlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So können Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfräse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilität wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Blöcke wurden neu konstruiert. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir immer vibrierte, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen waren im Nachhinein sichtbar und können sogar während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Einfach den Aufsatz für den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach außen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90°C heiß werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zusätzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erwärmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90°C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturlüfter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und kühlt die Druckobjekte auf Glasübergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping und Splitting mehr. veraltet (Peltier Kühlung fehlt) aktuell (mit Peltier Kühlung) 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0.005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualität kann man auch noch über die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 Düse auf Wasserkühlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  25. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
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