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  1. I'd like to add LEDs to my UMO+ that I have running Marlin v2. Some other posts mention the Ultimainboard v2.1.1 used in the UMO+ having an LED PWM output that can be used. It would be nice to buy the correct adapter and solder the LED strip to the adapter for easy install and remove rather than solder the LED leads directly to the board and risk breaking something. There are some pictures on the internet showing the LED PWM connector but I haven't found the name of it yet. I've attached a photo with the port in question circled. What connector type is the LED PWM por
  2. Hello everyone, For my project I am looking for a strong hard as well even little elastic filament that provides grip like rubber on a metal surface. I am trying to make a cnc suction cup that slides over a metal beam. The cup which is sucked through itself and get clamped by the expanding beam when enabled is yet to slippery if printed with abs. I thought of using PP but I dont know if that is grippy and I also consider using two different kinds of filaments in parts that later can be combined together by glue. Below some pictures of the cup. Can
  3. mijn UO+ print heel goed maar stopt vrij snel abrupt te printen, dit met verschillende files op verschillende sd-kaartjes. 1 van de denkpistes is een defecte sd-lezer. Ik ben op zoek naar een sketch om de sd kaartlezer te testen (alvorens over te gaan op de aankoop van een nieuwe Ulti Panel). Kan iemand mij die bezorgen ? dank bij voorbaat, Gerrit
  4. Recently got an Ultimaker Original+ and got it printing. Noticed that when I was printing a calibration for bed leveling that the lines werent matching or there were spaces. If it draws squares across the build plate, you see spaces between the lines or the lines of the squares dont always match up (ill include pictures when I get home). I also get surface artifacts or bumps on the straight lines on the calibration cube. Is this a cura problem, because I have it with my other Ultimaker original (that one prints cleanly), or is it the XY gantry system? I've tried to square it as much as possib
  5. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for b
  6. Hallo, mein UMO verstopft immer wieder oberhalb der Düse im Hotend. Ich habe schon mehrfach alles auseinander gebaut und darauf geachtet, das keine Spalte zwischen Düse und dem Röhrchen darüber sind. Der Schlauch ist auch neu und das Teflonteil auch. Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe Gruß Daniel
  7. Hallo Forum, Ich nutze einen UMO+ über Octoprint. Jedesmal wenn ich zum Bed-Levelling die Auto Home Funktion nutze, ist danach die Z-Achse blockiert. Um das Printbed wieder manuell bewegen zu können, muß ich den Drucker aus und wieder anschalten. Gibt es keine bessere Möglichkeit "Auto Home" wieder zu verlassen, oder bin ich einfach zu dumm? Gruß Uwe
  8. Wat zijn, afgezien van het 'omhulsel', de verschillen tussen een Ultimaker Original Plus en een Ultimaker 2? Vervolgvraag is dan ook, bij grote verschillen, is aanpassen naar een Ultimaker 2 goed te doen?
  9. Bonjour à tous je viens de monter un original + mais petit soucis en lançant un print à vide: le bed ne descends pas et l’identique X ou Y de fonctionne pas. Merci d'avance pour vos réponses.
  10. Hello! I'm working as teacher with an Ultimaker Original (not the plus) but I don't have any experience with this kind of printer. My students are almost done designing and getting ready for printing. My question is; what do you think would be better (and faster)? Letting every student print his/her own design one after another? Or putting multiple designs in 1 big printtask? I ask this because I've seen other designs getting to hot, so the PLA 'deforms' or 'warps'...Sorry I dont know the correct word (But got picture of that) Not warped
  11. Hi All, Just looking for some guidance from anyone on the following. I have a UMO with the + upgrade fitted. The LCD display has the typical dead spot making it unusable I have a UM2 PCB and display which i was going to use on a UM2 build but now want to swap in with the old UMO PCB and display Anyone have experience of this situation that help me (save me from bricking the new pcb) Thanks in advance Mark
  12. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  13. How do i get UMO+ usage data analytics? I try to get the data of how many hours used my printer but i couldnt find any information about it. Please help =)
  14. Hey there! I've been hoping to laser cut a custom Ultimaker Original Plus frame with the dimensions of an UM2 Extended, but I'm having issues sourcing the right materials. I'm in the US, and finding the right metric stuff is difficult. I think I may be able to get away with 1/4" thickness instead of 6mm, but I can't seem to find anything that's the right quality. The closest that I can find is some MDF, and I'd really prefer not to go down that route (moisture, not structurally great, etc). I'd also like to avoid acrylic, though I am making the side panels in frosted acrylic to
  15. I'm selling my Ultimaker Original+ with heated bed for $199 or best offer. The last I used it, it worked. Two of the sliding blocks have a little damage but they work. The nozzle will need to be cleared before you start printing. Its a fun starter printer for someone who likes a project. I'm selling it because I bought a Form 2 printer, and now I print everything with that. If interested, let me know your location so I can calculate the shipping.
  16. Guten Tag zusammen, ich habe seit längerem ein größeres Problem mit meinem Ultimaker Original Plus und befürchte dieser Fehler tritt im Mainboard auf. Mittlerweile tritt dieser Fehler so oft auf, das kein Drucken mehr möglich ist. Das Problem betrifft einen Sprung auf der Y Achse den der Drucker ruckartig, oft (aber meines Wissens nicht immer) bei der nächsten Z Stufe macht. Hier ein Bild eines abgebrochenen Druckes aufgrund dieses Fehlers. (Die Verschiebungen weisen immer einen unregelmäßigen Abstand zueinander auf) Ausgeschlossen werden kann (da schon überprüft):
  17. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan contr
  18. Bonne année aux Ultimakers Nouveau sur ce forum Je me débrouille avec ma UMO+ montée sans gros problème voila plus d'un an. j'imprime avec des supports de portables un par un mais identiques et j'ai un défaut d'aspect sans raison. J'ai bien observé mon modèle .STL sous Sketchup Voila le défaut identique sur les 3 impressions bien que le .stl est été recompilé après la première impression (suite a une petite modif). Quelqu'un a déjà rencontré ce problème ou une idée? Merci fichiers joints : 1) modèle .stl en coupe 2) .jpg réalisation de face
  19. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  20. Im selling my Ultimaker original which I worked on it two years ago. Never used by then because of a problem on the nozzle which is fixable for more information (pictures, discussion) send me email : spatial.tend@gmail.com
  21. So I've been thinking of upgrading my UMO+ cooling fan setup. My current machine is unmodified and only blows air from one direction, leaving the other side with something to be desired. I have what I feel to be a solid solution to this problem that doesn't have to do with modelling and printing a complex, melt-prone duct. I've been browsing Amazon and found these centrifugal PC fans that allow me to mount them in a very convenient way. I'll link them here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L2YH79Y/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2QQQKMKGVNA5E&th=1 I plan to use two
  22. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düse
  23. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  24. Hi, my UMO+ extruder works only if the hotend temp ist above the temperature for the print. Also i cant move the extruder in the move-axis menu, if the hotend temperature is higher then the set temperature. If the temperature of the hotend reaches the set temperatur, it works. During the print, the extruder stops always the temperature drops under the set temperature. Ideas? PS Extruder stops under 170°C.
  25. I am using Cura to slice for a UMO+, equipped with a 1,8mm nozzle (drilled out a standard nozzle). The model I am using to print, is basically a cilinder that has a wall thickness of 1,8mm modeled into it. Needless to say, I want to print this with a single wall of 1,8 mm. When I slice it, Cura sends the nozzle around the circle twice, both times extruding filament, which results in a (sloppy) wall thickness of around 3,6 mm and horrible looking Z scar. As can be seen in the attached image, it isn't printing two perimeter lines next to each other as it would normally do, but prin
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