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  1. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düsen und Heat-Blocks sind in Verwendung. Beide Düsen gehen bis 400°C und werden durch eine Wasserkühlung gekühlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So können Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfräse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilität wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Blöcke wurden neu konstruiert. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir immer vibrierte, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen waren im Nachhinein sichtbar und können sogar während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Einfach den Aufsatz für den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach außen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90°C heiß werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zusätzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erwärmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90°C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturlüfter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und kühlt die Druckobjekte auf Glasübergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping und Splitting mehr. veraltet (Peltier Kühlung fehlt) aktuell (mit Peltier Kühlung) 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0.005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualität kann man auch noch über die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 Düse auf Wasserkühlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  2. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  3. Hi, my UMO+ extruder works only if the hotend temp ist above the temperature for the print. Also i cant move the extruder in the move-axis menu, if the hotend temperature is higher then the set temperature. If the temperature of the hotend reaches the set temperatur, it works. During the print, the extruder stops always the temperature drops under the set temperature. Ideas? PS Extruder stops under 170°C.
  4. Hello everyone, For my project I am looking for a strong hard as well even little elastic filament that provides grip like rubber on a metal surface. I am trying to make a cnc suction cup that slides over a metal beam. The cup which is sucked through itself and get clamped by the expanding beam when enabled is yet to slippery if printed with abs. I thought of using PP but I dont know if that is grippy and I also consider using two different kinds of filaments in parts that later can be combined together by glue. Below some pictures of the cup. Can anyone help me out? Thanks and best regards, Bogaedo
  5. I'm selling my Ultimaker Original+ with heated bed for $199 or best offer. The last I used it, it worked. Two of the sliding blocks have a little damage but they work. The nozzle will need to be cleared before you start printing. Its a fun starter printer for someone who likes a project. I'm selling it because I bought a Form 2 printer, and now I print everything with that. If interested, let me know your location so I can calculate the shipping.
  6. I am using Cura to slice for a UMO+, equipped with a 1,8mm nozzle (drilled out a standard nozzle). The model I am using to print, is basically a cilinder that has a wall thickness of 1,8mm modeled into it. Needless to say, I want to print this with a single wall of 1,8 mm. When I slice it, Cura sends the nozzle around the circle twice, both times extruding filament, which results in a (sloppy) wall thickness of around 3,6 mm and horrible looking Z scar. As can be seen in the attached image, it isn't printing two perimeter lines next to each other as it would normally do, but printing the same line again in the same layer. It can be seen when clicking the play button in the layer view and when the printer is running. When I use the same settings with a closed solid model and let Cura determine wall thickness etc., it all works like I would expect, 1 perimeter line and nice clean print results. I think I have pretty much tried varying all the settings connected to the wall thickness (number of perimeters, compensate wall thickness, print thin lines, fill gaps etc, line width.) and the calculation of the number of perimeters. Also in the modeling of the wall thickness (tried slightly above and below 1,8). The obvious answer would be to use a closed solid, but I need some of the features that can only be included when modeling the wall thickness. Can anybody tell me why Cura will double extrude these lines? What could I change to get it to cleanly extrude the wall in a single line/pass?
  7. Hallo zusammen, wir verkaufen unseren 5 Monate alten UMO+. Der Drucker hat ca. eine halbe Rolle Filament durch. Wurde sehr wenig benutzt. Gekauft wurde der UMO+ bei igo3d. Warum wir den Drucker verkaufen: -> wir drucken hauptsächlich auf dem Form2 und dem Prusa. Wir werden den UMO+ durch einen Ultimaker 3 ersetzen, da wir einen Drucker mit Dual Extrusion für unsere Anwendungen praktischer ist. Der Drucker wird mit dem Gehäuse verkauft. Der Zustand des UMO+ ist Top. Preis: VHB Bei Interesse bitte per PN melden.
  8. Hello, I am using an Ultimaker original Plus with the latest Cura 4.1.0 and Post Processing 2.2.1. When I am using the feature to change the filament at a specific layer height with post processing, I am always facing the problem that the add-on is causing to extrude filament instead of retract filament before the nozzle moves away to the changing point. So I always have to change the g-code by hand by adding minus to the value otherwise is extruding material before the nozzle is moved away. and to work correctly I have to change E5.5 L10 to E-5.5 L-10. Is the add-on not working correctly or am I using it wrong or not working with my UMO+? Thanks for any help!!!
  9. Hello I have bought an Ultimaker original plus and It has been nothing but a dream. Recently I have been having an issue with extrusion, the filament is hard to push trough the nozzle as if there was a jam?. I have gone trough and cleaned the nozzle assembly and the nozzle three times. I know for sure that it is not the feeder, and when doing "cold pulls" it looks as if the heat is creeping up the heat break and the filament is expanding in the chamber.This has never been an issue and now I can no longer use the Ultimaker . The printer is stock and nothing is burnt or looks broken. I have already gone through all of the steps on ultimakers site
  10. A little back story. Three and a half years ago, I received my Ultimamer Original+ and the motherboard had a dead E1 port, thanks to the support from people in this thread I managed to get a version of the firmware to move over to E2 and all was well. I received a replacement board from Ultimaker which I never actually swapped over as I had just got the damaged one working. Fast forward to today and I have a weird issue with the Y axis taking leaps every now and then and it's not due to slipping. As some have mentioned it could be a board issue, I've decided to install that replacement board. The Z port is dead! WTF, were these boards known for being flakey? I've moved my Z motor over to the X port and an autohome moves the motor fine so I'm pretty sure we are talking about another dead port. So, now I find myself in the past and trying to edit the firmware but this time to move the control of the Z port to the E2 port. I imagine this too is possible but it might be more editing of the config than before due to different set functionality of the port. If anyone has any comments, suggestions or has done this before then please let me know. I'm not sure if I should start off editing the same file as before from here (although this has been updated also) or to look at a new version of firmware to edit. I've not updated the firmware in the last few years as if it ain't broke, don't try to fix it and also I would have had to edit it every time. TL;DR Ultimaker Original+ Z port dead on motherboard, want to edit firmware to move it to E2.
  11. Hello community I'm printing a thin walled airplane with parts from thingyverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3205608/comments). The problem I'm having is that some small holes (on fuselage_2) are printed too small. If tried everything I could think of to reduce the retraction blobs and everything, but they still are too small. Now one approach I was gonna try was to set "horizontal expansion" to a negative value. But doing this makes all the inner structures of the model disappear (same thing as if I leave "union overlapping volumes" checked). Can anyone tell me why this happens and what I could do against it? The profile and pictures and are attached (one with horizontal expansion, one without). Thanks and best s. shiftyCuraProfile_expansion.curaprofile
  12. I am selling this second hand UMO+ which can be used for parts or for an experienced user who whats to fix and replace some parts. It comes complete with the power supply and cable. The heat bed sensor and the nozzle sensor wire are faulty. The printer is available for €300 for collection in Amsterdam, Netherlands.
  13. Habe aus versehen einen Kurzschluss gemacht am Port J14 für die Lüfter vom Druckkopf. Kann man das noch reparieren indem man irgendwelche SMD Bauteile austauscht?
  14. last week i blown up my motordriver from the main extruder(E1) motor on the ultiboard rev v2.1.4 now i try to set my second extruder port (E2) as main but it doesn't work. first i select the right board (72) from the board list and after that i search for board 72 in the pin tab and change the 3 pinning numbers from E0 To E1 but no power at all do i miss a step? i also tried to change the X/Y pinning and that work the change direction. the extruder morot also work when i put the connector in the Z motor port.
  15. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1 but the problems seem to persist. Any ideas on what's wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot next? Could there be multiple issues? Thanks for the help.
  16. Hallo Freunde des 3D-Druck, ich bin neu hier, nicht im 3D-Druck aber seit kurzem Besitzer eines Ultimaker Original Plus. Ich habe das Problem das wenn ich Nylon Drucke überall am Hotend Material austritt. Ich habe schon alles festgezogen, jedoch ohne Erfolg, und hoffe das hier jemand mir Tipps geben kann wie ich das Problem beseitigen kann. Vielen Dank. Grüße Sebastian von 3D ProtoPrint
  17. PDF READY VERSION AT: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-upgrade-on-umo-assembly-manual Well I finally got one UM2kit and I'm getting ready to install it on one of my umo+. So far everything it's just very plug and play. @Meduza Addon's to install it on Umo+ Rotated printhead https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo Feeder adaptor https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo I'll post more as soon I get my hands dirty this weekend, but since the printed parts are ready I suppose it won't take much time, unless I stop for an ice-cream or a coffee. I'm also making slideblocks to use the longer um2 shafts, and I'll try to advance in that direction after the basic installation it's done and running. For more on that go to: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21074-beyond-slideblocks-for-umo-to-use-um2-shafts-hotend First steps - Setting all ready Hotend Before starting. You will need to be sure that the printed part x4 screw holes are clean and the long hotend screws are clean. If not, use a 3mm drill bit or a file (or the screws until they pass clean and smoothly. Take out the bowden and the clip from the um2+ hotend. Unscrew the x4 long screws and take out the top of the hotend black plastic. Don't worry the bottom part with the coupler, nozzle and all that won't move a bit, that part it's independent on um2/um2+ hotend. Then take out the um2 top and replace it with the new printed part. BUT remember to ROTATE it 90 Degrees, so the top bearing it's facing you. Make sure that the back CABLES ain't being crush and they are just like they where when we started this. I must say that it's almost imposible to crush them since they are really neatly installed, but better safe than sorry. Insert the bowden clip, bowden and blue thingy. Ok, hotend ready to use. Let's do some other stuff. Feeder time The metal adaptor that comes with the upgrade kit won't be needed for umo+. Just the white feeder part. Get x4 m3 10mm and screw the motor to the feeder hanger. After that, you need to secure the white gear feeder to the meduza adaptor. This time you need x2 nuts and x2 m3 14-16mm. You could even use 20mm or longer for this since they won't touch anything but to make it look clean try to use 14-16mm. Ok feeder done. One think I noticed @meduza it's that there's no clearance to grip the cable later on. So this part might need a little bit of adjustment. Anyhow isn't biggie. Time to update the hardware  First, disconnect the power and make sure there’s no residual power on the machine (do a turn on/off while unplugged) Take out the board Wooden cover This part depends on what model of board you have, 2.1.1 needs a flat screw driver while 2.1.4 have a different clamp system for the Heater. Unscrew the heater 1 cables  Relax the velcro fastening.  Take out Temp 1 sensor.  If you installed it like me, with the pt100 behind the board, you will need to unscrew the board a bit so there’s wiggle room to pull it out. Move the bed to the z if needed.  Pt100 disconnected fully  Unplug the fan cable. Same as before, if you installed behind the board you know the drill.  Cables ready to take out, pt100, heater, fan.  Pull out the 3 cables, you won’t need them anytime soon.  Disconnect feeder 1 motor  To take the feeder 1 cable out it’s better to push with the fingernail on the top of the plastic, this way you make sure you don’t pull the cables out of the connector.  Time to pull out the feeder motor and from the frame too. Save it for a rainy day.  Hang the new feeder motor with it’s adaptor and pass the cable trough and plug it where the old feeder was.  Fix the hotend somewhere safe so you can work with the new um2+ hotend cables. They come with a tape so it’s very easy to pull them trough the hole.  Since the cables come with a snake’s skin protector, you can avoid to insert them on the umo+ guide, also it’s much easier to remove if sometime goes wront.  Ok cables in.  Stick the cables on a side and pick the heater cables to install then.  Install heater 1 IMPORTANT STEP. Now the PT100, I really recommend to pass it behind the board. Pass it behind the board, if you didn’t unscrew a bit the board (from inside the machine, not the ones outside) you can do it now. Use sometime to pass the cable behind. I used the tweezers I use to pick the filament when it purges.  Connect the pt100. As you can see the cable reach perfectly, but there’s very little wiggle room, that’s why it’s important to pass it behind the board.  Now the fan. Cable yellow/green colores with a molex. Same as the pt100, pass it behind the board.  And now plug it  IMPORTANT STEP This might be a new connector for some of you, this one it’s the 5v hotend fan. If you have a 2.1.1 this little fan (it’s almost noise-less, for real) will stay on always. On 2.1.4 boards it won’t start until the hotend reaches 40C.  It only has one way to be plugged in  Now you can push up the board and tight the screws again. Remember to push the board up I did forgot and had to do it later…  Allright!! Now short the cables, use the velcro fastening thingy and rearrange a bit the mess.  Hotend time! Since I use Twisterblocks this step it’s very very fast. For users with standard wooden blocks, go to the page 54 of the Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual It’s a very easy and fast step, so don’t worry.  UMO+ hotend out! Take the x/y shafts. It’s a good moment to clean them with a fiberless cloth.  You should have the hotend and feeder ready to save them for a rainy day. Bag them so they don’t get dust.  Time to install the new um2+ hotend!!  Secure the hotend. Basically the step you did to dissasemble the slideblocks, but reverse it.  Everything almost ready!  Remember to recalibrate x/y. With my twisterblocks I didn’t had to do it, but with the original wood blocks you will need to do this. if you forgot how to do it. It’s a very good video!  Time to adjust the firmware! Set the Esteps on to 369.0 (Control / Motion & scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img. Now the PID of the hotend. (Control / Temperature / scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.  Remember to save them!  Thinks that are different. UM2+ Fans don’t start to move until they reach 100/255, so you will need to readjust your cooling settings. Ultimaker 2 Firmware has a KICKSTART at 200millisec (keep reading about this on the next point) and a minimum pwm of 20. So for UMO+ you need the Amedee custom firmware builder to make it work easier. The best custom umo+ firmware builder it’s made by @amedee. Read the basic tutorial I made at Ultimaker Original custom firmware builder. Remember to realign the Z! Also if you plan to use I2K to go higher than 260C you will need to install a custom firmware. Enjoy!!!
  18. I’ve owned a umo+ for quite a while now and am interested in upgrading to a dual extrusion system. In my research I was looking into the Mark 2 upgrade. I was wondering if it would be possible to upgrade my umo+ using the um2+ extrusion kit. Using neotko’s guide and then just following the Mark 2 instructions for the um2. Just curious if it would be a possible upgrade.
  19. Hello All, My name is Deidra I am Best Buy Teen Tech Coordinator. I am currently struggling to put togerther 2 3D ultimaker orginal + I was looking to see if I could get some assistance.
  20. tl;dr: brim, shell and infill fine - top/bottom layers screwed up. Also curling and blotchyness. Pls help me :< Greetings, fellow printing enthusiasts! I've been using my UMO+ for a couple of years now and it has always worked quite well. With some fine tuning I managed to get absolutely flawless prints comparable to SLA prints. But the Design of the Extrusion system and Hotend had some design flaws causing an unnessecary amount of filament jams, stripping and failed prints so I exchanged them for E3D's V6 and Titan. This worked quite well and produced good quality prints. Haven't used it in a couple of months, now I took it apart and reassembled it to clean it up and improve some minor things - and now I've encountered a weird problem I just can't put my finger on: The Brim prints absolutely flawless every time but as soon as it gets to filling the bottom layer the lines are way too far apart and all the bottom layers as well as the top layers are this way, appearing underextruded. However the nozzle is not jammed. It has no problem extruding more filament. The outer walls and infill print just fine, it's just the top/bottom. weirdly enough, I have printed successfully before using basically the exact same setup - the only difference being a couple of months of non-usage and me taking the printer apart. But only to give the casing a new coat of painting and implementing the banana tensioner bushing blocks by alan89. Normally I would assume the nozzle was blocked but then the brim shouldn't be as clean. Also I assume a too distant build plate probably isn't the problem because the top layers are underextruded as well and the shell/infill in between looks just fine. I noticed increasing the temperature to 260°C slightly improved the top/bottom quality but this is quite hot and even 5°C hotter than the manufacturers specifications (Innofil ABS). So this can't be the solution, it just reduces the symptoms. The filament is quite old now - it's been out of the box for a year and a half or so. I've had some extremely strange behaviour in the past from filament that was too wet. But I baked it for 3-4 hours at 70°C just a couple of days ago so I'm thinking it should be fine. And I had the same problem with PLA too. I used this test cube as reference model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 Also the corners came out really blotchy and curled upwards. In one of the standard troubleshooting guides I read this might be due to overheating. So at first I reduced speed and temperature down to 220°C. same problem. Strangely the print came out better when I went up to 255°C, for helping the contour of the Z at the top adhering to the top layer fill lines but still not very good. Sliced with Cura 3.5, using standard ABS settings at first, then changing around initial layer line width/height, flow, temperature and skin overlap percentage etc. but to no avail. Also I feel like the standard settings should be at least somewhat okay since they have worked in the past. So my question is where do you think the problem might lie? Should I buy new filament or might the problem be Cura or firmware related? Or even mechanical? sorry for the long text thanks for reading!
  21. Hello, I just recently add LEDs to my UMO+ and add the new software of the bultimaker to turn on the LEDs. My only problem is, that I always have to turn them on manually. Is it possible to change that, that there always on like on the UM2/+?
  22. I broke accidentally short circuit the fan port j14 (cooling fans). Is the any way to repair the port by soldering an SMD part? Right now I am using the led port for the fans ? Ultiumaker Board rev. 2.1.4
  23. Hallo, ich bin auf der Suche nach eine günstigen alternative für eine Düse für den Ultimaker Original Plus mit Olsson Block. Ich habe mir leider e3d düsen bestellt und festgestellt das diese passen aber viel zu kurz sind sodass der Lüfter zuerst das Bett berührt. Hab ihr schon Erfahrungen mit anderen Düsen gemacht die groß genug sind und gut passen? Danke schon mal für jede helfende Antwort
  24. I am looking for a cheap alternative compared to the original Nozzle for the olsson block. Unfortunately I bought a e3d nozzle because I thought they fit because of the same thread. They do fit but there are to short for the head, so that the fan case touches the bed first. Has anyone an idea or tested different nozzle because the nozzle for UM2 and E3D hot ends are all to small in length. Thanks for every answer!
  25. This has happened a number of times with my UMO+ now. It started after I have brought a new hot end and temperature gauge. I have tested the same file multiple times and it stops in a different place each time, I have even tried different files on a new SD card. When it stops the extruder head remains in the same place (doesn't return to home) and the bed lowers, making me think it could be a power supply issue rather than G-code related. I also print using a SD card. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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