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Found 91 results

  1. PDF READY VERSION AT: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-upgrade-on-umo-assembly-manual Well I finally got one UM2kit and I'm getting ready to install it on one of my umo+. So far everything it's just very plug and play. @Meduza Addon's to install it on Umo+ Rotated printhead https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-printhead-top-for-umo Feeder adaptor https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-extrusion-upgrade-kit-mount-for-umo I'll post more as soon I get my hands dirty this weekend, but since the printed parts are ready I suppose it won't take much time, unless I stop for an ice-cream or a coffee. I'm also making slideblocks to use the longer um2 shafts, and I'll try to advance in that direction after the basic installation it's done and running. For more on that go to: https://ultimaker.com/en/community/21074-beyond-slideblocks-for-umo-to-use-um2-shafts-hotend First steps - Setting all ready Hotend Before starting. You will need to be sure that the printed part x4 screw holes are clean and the long hotend screws are clean. If not, use a 3mm drill bit or a file (or the screws until they pass clean and smoothly. Take out the bowden and the clip from the um2+ hotend. Unscrew the x4 long screws and take out the top of the hotend black plastic. Don't worry the bottom part with the coupler, nozzle and all that won't move a bit, that part it's independent on um2/um2+ hotend. Then take out the um2 top and replace it with the new printed part. BUT remember to ROTATE it 90 Degrees, so the top bearing it's facing you. Make sure that the back CABLES ain't being crush and they are just like they where when we started this. I must say that it's almost imposible to crush them since they are really neatly installed, but better safe than sorry. Insert the bowden clip, bowden and blue thingy. Ok, hotend ready to use. Let's do some other stuff. Feeder time The metal adaptor that comes with the upgrade kit won't be needed for umo+. Just the white feeder part. Get x4 m3 10mm and screw the motor to the feeder hanger. After that, you need to secure the white gear feeder to the meduza adaptor. This time you need x2 nuts and x2 m3 14-16mm. You could even use 20mm or longer for this since they won't touch anything but to make it look clean try to use 14-16mm. Ok feeder done. One think I noticed @meduza it's that there's no clearance to grip the cable later on. So this part might need a little bit of adjustment. Anyhow isn't biggie. Time to update the hardware  First, disconnect the power and make sure there’s no residual power on the machine (do a turn on/off while unplugged) Take out the board Wooden cover This part depends on what model of board you have, 2.1.1 needs a flat screw driver while 2.1.4 have a different clamp system for the Heater. Unscrew the heater 1 cables  Relax the velcro fastening.  Take out Temp 1 sensor.  If you installed it like me, with the pt100 behind the board, you will need to unscrew the board a bit so there’s wiggle room to pull it out. Move the bed to the z if needed.  Pt100 disconnected fully  Unplug the fan cable. Same as before, if you installed behind the board you know the drill.  Cables ready to take out, pt100, heater, fan.  Pull out the 3 cables, you won’t need them anytime soon.  Disconnect feeder 1 motor  To take the feeder 1 cable out it’s better to push with the fingernail on the top of the plastic, this way you make sure you don’t pull the cables out of the connector.  Time to pull out the feeder motor and from the frame too. Save it for a rainy day.  Hang the new feeder motor with it’s adaptor and pass the cable trough and plug it where the old feeder was.  Fix the hotend somewhere safe so you can work with the new um2+ hotend cables. They come with a tape so it’s very easy to pull them trough the hole.  Since the cables come with a snake’s skin protector, you can avoid to insert them on the umo+ guide, also it’s much easier to remove if sometime goes wront.  Ok cables in.  Stick the cables on a side and pick the heater cables to install then.  Install heater 1 IMPORTANT STEP. Now the PT100, I really recommend to pass it behind the board. Pass it behind the board, if you didn’t unscrew a bit the board (from inside the machine, not the ones outside) you can do it now. Use sometime to pass the cable behind. I used the tweezers I use to pick the filament when it purges.  Connect the pt100. As you can see the cable reach perfectly, but there’s very little wiggle room, that’s why it’s important to pass it behind the board.  Now the fan. Cable yellow/green colores with a molex. Same as the pt100, pass it behind the board.  And now plug it  IMPORTANT STEP This might be a new connector for some of you, this one it’s the 5v hotend fan. If you have a 2.1.1 this little fan (it’s almost noise-less, for real) will stay on always. On 2.1.4 boards it won’t start until the hotend reaches 40C.  It only has one way to be plugged in  Now you can push up the board and tight the screws again. Remember to push the board up I did forgot and had to do it later…  Allright!! Now short the cables, use the velcro fastening thingy and rearrange a bit the mess.  Hotend time! Since I use Twisterblocks this step it’s very very fast. For users with standard wooden blocks, go to the page 54 of the Ultimaker Original Plus Assembly Manual It’s a very easy and fast step, so don’t worry.  UMO+ hotend out! Take the x/y shafts. It’s a good moment to clean them with a fiberless cloth.  You should have the hotend and feeder ready to save them for a rainy day. Bag them so they don’t get dust.  Time to install the new um2+ hotend!!  Secure the hotend. Basically the step you did to dissasemble the slideblocks, but reverse it.  Everything almost ready!  Remember to recalibrate x/y. With my twisterblocks I didn’t had to do it, but with the original wood blocks you will need to do this. if you forgot how to do it. It’s a very good video!  Time to adjust the firmware! Set the Esteps on to 369.0 (Control / Motion & scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img. Now the PID of the hotend. (Control / Temperature / scroll down to find it ) Set the numbers like the img.  Remember to save them!  Thinks that are different. UM2+ Fans don’t start to move until they reach 100/255, so you will need to readjust your cooling settings. Ultimaker 2 Firmware has a KICKSTART at 200millisec (keep reading about this on the next point) and a minimum pwm of 20. So for UMO+ you need the Amedee custom firmware builder to make it work easier. The best custom umo+ firmware builder it’s made by @amedee. Read the basic tutorial I made at Ultimaker Original custom firmware builder. Remember to realign the Z! Also if you plan to use I2K to go higher than 260C you will need to install a custom firmware. Enjoy!!!
  2. I’ve owned a umo+ for quite a while now and am interested in upgrading to a dual extrusion system. In my research I was looking into the Mark 2 upgrade. I was wondering if it would be possible to upgrade my umo+ using the um2+ extrusion kit. Using neotko’s guide and then just following the Mark 2 instructions for the um2. Just curious if it would be a possible upgrade.
  3. Hello All, My name is Deidra I am Best Buy Teen Tech Coordinator. I am currently struggling to put togerther 2 3D ultimaker orginal + I was looking to see if I could get some assistance.
  4. Sir_Fruit_Loops

    Weird Extrusion Problem

    tl;dr: brim, shell and infill fine - top/bottom layers screwed up. Also curling and blotchyness. Pls help me :< Greetings, fellow printing enthusiasts! I've been using my UMO+ for a couple of years now and it has always worked quite well. With some fine tuning I managed to get absolutely flawless prints comparable to SLA prints. But the Design of the Extrusion system and Hotend had some design flaws causing an unnessecary amount of filament jams, stripping and failed prints so I exchanged them for E3D's V6 and Titan. This worked quite well and produced good quality prints. Haven't used it in a couple of months, now I took it apart and reassembled it to clean it up and improve some minor things - and now I've encountered a weird problem I just can't put my finger on: The Brim prints absolutely flawless every time but as soon as it gets to filling the bottom layer the lines are way too far apart and all the bottom layers as well as the top layers are this way, appearing underextruded. However the nozzle is not jammed. It has no problem extruding more filament. The outer walls and infill print just fine, it's just the top/bottom. weirdly enough, I have printed successfully before using basically the exact same setup - the only difference being a couple of months of non-usage and me taking the printer apart. But only to give the casing a new coat of painting and implementing the banana tensioner bushing blocks by alan89. Normally I would assume the nozzle was blocked but then the brim shouldn't be as clean. Also I assume a too distant build plate probably isn't the problem because the top layers are underextruded as well and the shell/infill in between looks just fine. I noticed increasing the temperature to 260°C slightly improved the top/bottom quality but this is quite hot and even 5°C hotter than the manufacturers specifications (Innofil ABS). So this can't be the solution, it just reduces the symptoms. The filament is quite old now - it's been out of the box for a year and a half or so. I've had some extremely strange behaviour in the past from filament that was too wet. But I baked it for 3-4 hours at 70°C just a couple of days ago so I'm thinking it should be fine. And I had the same problem with PLA too. I used this test cube as reference model https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1278865 Also the corners came out really blotchy and curled upwards. In one of the standard troubleshooting guides I read this might be due to overheating. So at first I reduced speed and temperature down to 220°C. same problem. Strangely the print came out better when I went up to 255°C, for helping the contour of the Z at the top adhering to the top layer fill lines but still not very good. Sliced with Cura 3.5, using standard ABS settings at first, then changing around initial layer line width/height, flow, temperature and skin overlap percentage etc. but to no avail. Also I feel like the standard settings should be at least somewhat okay since they have worked in the past. So my question is where do you think the problem might lie? Should I buy new filament or might the problem be Cura or firmware related? Or even mechanical? sorry for the long text thanks for reading!
  5. PhilDesign

    Lüfter Anschluss J14 kaputt

    Habe aus versehen einen Kurzschluss gemacht am Port J14 für die Lüfter vom Druckkopf. Kann man das noch reparieren indem man irgendwelche SMD Bauteile austauscht?
  6. PhilDesign

    UMO+ How to set LEDs always on?

    Hello, I just recently add LEDs to my UMO+ and add the new software of the bultimaker to turn on the LEDs. My only problem is, that I always have to turn them on manually. Is it possible to change that, that there always on like on the UM2/+?
  7. I broke accidentally short circuit the fan port j14 (cooling fans). Is the any way to repair the port by soldering an SMD part? Right now I am using the led port for the fans ? Ultiumaker Board rev. 2.1.4
  8. PhilDesign

    Düse für UMO+

    Hallo, ich bin auf der Suche nach eine günstigen alternative für eine Düse für den Ultimaker Original Plus mit Olsson Block. Ich habe mir leider e3d düsen bestellt und festgestellt das diese passen aber viel zu kurz sind sodass der Lüfter zuerst das Bett berührt. Hab ihr schon Erfahrungen mit anderen Düsen gemacht die groß genug sind und gut passen? Danke schon mal für jede helfende Antwort
  9. PhilDesign

    Nozzle for UMO+

    I am looking for a cheap alternative compared to the original Nozzle for the olsson block. Unfortunately I bought a e3d nozzle because I thought they fit because of the same thread. They do fit but there are to short for the head, so that the fan case touches the bed first. Has anyone an idea or tested different nozzle because the nozzle for UM2 and E3D hot ends are all to small in length. Thanks for every answer!
  10. This has happened a number of times with my UMO+ now. It started after I have brought a new hot end and temperature gauge. I have tested the same file multiple times and it stops in a different place each time, I have even tried different files on a new SD card. When it stops the extruder head remains in the same place (doesn't return to home) and the bed lowers, making me think it could be a power supply issue rather than G-code related. I also print using a SD card. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  11. Hello. I am completely new to 3D printing as such, but very motivated. I've just enjoyed assembling an Ultimaker Original Plus. I uploaded the newest Firmware, which went without problems via Cura. I have used Cura Version 15.04 to use the bed levelling wizard. After going through the bed levelling process, Cura makes the printer draw a first figure (square). I notice two things: The bed is not heated up (the nozzle is heated up, to 210 degrees for my silver metalllic ultimaker plate), and the feeder motor doesnt seem to be moving at all. No filament is pushed through. Also: Heating up the bedplate doesnt work (Doesnt work from the controller,using Menu --> Prepare --> Preheat PLA Bed) Getting the fan into motion doesnt work (From controller: Menu --> Control --> Temperature --> Fan Speed) Getting the feeder motor to run doesnt seem to work at all. The motor itself seems to be healthy. I plugged the feeder motor into the board socket of the z-motor, and it worked fine. Is there something trivial I might have missed? Thanks for your time. Jakob
  12. Hi guys, as of today my Ultimaker original+ shows Z-Axis problems. It's no new machine, in fact I have printed many parts without problems. Since this morning, when the head moves to "Home" at start of printing, it seems to not correctly detect "Home" for the Z-Axis. It hits the top position fairly hard and most unnerving, it moves downwards right after and making a real terrible noise like some broken gearbox. That noise is really bad! It won't stop until I hit the main switch to shut it off! Same happens, when I choose "Auto Home" from the controller manue. What could be wrong? Please help! Regards, Uwe
  13. Usually I find solutions for my printer problems online, but for this one I failed. Therefor a new topic. My UMO+ always worked fine. Now, when I want to make a print it doesn't first heat up, level the heated bed or go home, but it starts to print right away (in the air and on quite high speed) I checked with different files. turned the machine on and off to try again, same problem occurs. Anyone has an idea what to do?
  14. Hallo, ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige große (und kleine) Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war es stets, ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen und weniger, unnötige Schönheiten zu verbauen. Hier liste ich alle Upgrades auf: 1. E3D V6 Düse Quasi ein Muss: Düsenupgrade auf die E3D V6. Verbesserung der Druckqualität, austauschbare Düsen und Temperaturen bis 400 °C. Genauso ein Muss ist der Einsatz von zwei Lüftern für die gleichmäßige und starke Kühlung der Druckteile. Meine beiden Lüfter sind 40x40 mm groß. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder hat mir eigentlich nie Probleme gemacht, trotzdem schadet es auf keinen Fall auf den BondTech QR zu wechseln. Die Druckwände werden glatter/gleichmäßiger und das nervige Wechseln des Filaments am original Extruder funktioniert nun ganz simpel. Nachteil: Sehr teuer. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Dadurch konnte man mit der Hand den Druckkopf deutlich rauf und runter bewegen. Da ich mehr Stabilität (vor Allem für den Platinenfräs-Aufsatz) wollte, wandte ich diese Verbesserung an. Jedoch mussten natürlich die XY-Blöcke und der ganze Druckkopf neu gestaltet werden. Vorhandene XY-Blöcke auf thingiverse.com hab ich auf 8 mm Bohrungen ausgelegt und der Druckkopf ist eine Eigenkreation. Es müssen natürlich auch neue 8 mm Linearlager gekauft werden. 4. Modularer Druckkopf Um den UMO+ auch anderwärtig zu verwenden, wurde ein modularer Druckkopf entwickelt. So kann man z.B. mit passender Vorrichtung auch eine Dremel, Laser oder einen Druckaufsatz für Dual Extrusion einspannen. Alle Druckteile sind so designt, dass sie keine Gewinde, sondern nur Durchgangslöcher besitzen. 5. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Die mit Abstand aufwendigste Verbesserung ist die Druckbett-Stabilisierung. Warum diese notwendig ist: Druckobjekte, die weit vorne am Druckbett liegen, können wackeln, wenn die Düse druckt (schon bei normal-schnellen Geschwindigkeiten). Diese starken Vibrationen sind im Nachhinein sichtbar und können im Extremfall während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben, weil die Düse ständig am Objekt vibriert und leicht hängen bleiben kann. Außerdem wollte ich einfach mehr Stabilität bezüglich der Platinenfräse, da es hier auf wenige Mikrometer ankommt. Lösung: Zuerst habe ich überlegt, ob ich auch vorne 12 mm dicke Z-Achsen (wie hinten), zusammen mit einem 2. Trapezgewindespindel anbringen soll. Die 12 mm Achsen würden aber das Druckbett zu stark verkleinern, sodass ich mich nur für ein 2. Trapezgewindespindel entschieden habe. Jetzt war nur noch die Frage ob Verbindung mit Riemen oder ein zweiter Z-Schrittmotor. Da aber ein 2. Schrittmotor nochmals Strom saugt und eigentlich nicht nötig ist, wurde ein Riemen verbaut. Das Druckbett ist nun extrem stabil und wackelt kein bisschen mehr. Absolut empfehlenswert! Aufwand: Löcher in Aluminium-Druckbettplatte bohren, einige Teile im Internet kaufen und paar Löcher im Holzboden des Druckers bohren. Das Druckbett/Heizbett bzw. die Glasplatte muss nämlich nach hinten gesetzt werden. 6. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Wozu mit "gefährlichen" und teueren Substanzen arbeiten, wenn man einen 3D-Drucker hat? Einfach den Aufsatz für die E3D V6 Düse abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. Man braucht dafür keine 3 Minuten. Alle Kabel, die zum Druckkopf führen (Lüfter, Heizelement und Temperatursensor) wurden mit einem Steckverbinder ausgestattet (Lötarbeit). 7. Schrittmotor-Kühlung Wer kennt's nicht? Seine Schrittmotoren sind zu heiß. Gefährlich? Wird was kaputt? --> Nein. Aber verbrennen will man sich nicht und die Temperatur senkt man auch locker um 20 °C. Einfach an alle 4 Schrittmotoren 40x40x10 mm große Kühlkörper mit einer Wärmeleitpaste/Wärmeleitkleber ankleben. 8. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Vorteile: Extrem leise Schrittmotoren durch 256 Mikroschritte. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Das System finde ich um einiges besser. Auf die Schrittmotortreiber habe ich Kühlkörper geklebt. Sowohl oben als auch unten. Die Treiber sind so konzipiert, dass die Hauptwärme nach unten geleitet wird. 2 Radiallüfter, die zusätzlich aktiv die Kühlkörper Kühlen, sind ebenso montiert. 9. LED-Beleuchtung Das ist eher eine Spielerei und keine Verbesserung. Trotzdem, wenn man am Abend druckt, sieht man in meinem Raum die Druckobjekte sehr schlecht. Die LED-Beleuchtung sieht sehr schick aus, ist an der Hauptplatine angeschlossen und dadurch PWM-gesteuert. 10. Beschleunigungswerte reduziert Ich habe die XY Werte von 4000 auf 1600 reduziert und den Jerk auf 12 gestellt --> keine "Wellen" in den Wänden mehr! 11. End-Caps Die original Holz-End-Caps wurden mit einstellbaren Caps von thingiverse.com getauscht. 12. Wärmedämmmatte unter dem Heizbett Ich habe eine Wärmedämmmatte unter das Heizbett geklemmt, da ich bei hohen Heizbetttemperaturen (100 °C) Probleme hatte, die Temperaturen zu halten, während die Lüfter an sind. Dies ist nun nicht mehr der Fall. Bild siehe oben. 13. Direct Drive Schrittmotoren Warum? man erspart sich die beiden kurzen Riemen --> Backlash wird auf die Hälfte reduziert. Man muss zwei neue längere 8 mm dicke Wellen kaufen. Es gibt auch Varianten wo man die originalen Wellen behalten kann --> in Thingiverse suchen. Die neuen Wellen habe ich mit biegsamen Wellenkupplungen an den Schrittmotoren befestigt. Bei meiner Variante müssen keine Löcher in den UMO+ gebohrt werden. Sieht nicht wirklich schön aus aber bringt extrem viel. 14. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil (Trapezförmig). Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer --> neuere Version der GT2. Ich habe die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. Diese Markenriemen kosten das 10-fache der no-name China Riemen, haben aber ein viel besseres gleichmäßigeres Profil. 15. Wasserkühlung E3D V6 Der kleine und extrem laute original 30 mm Lüfter am Cold-End der E3D V6 wird durch eine selbst gebaute, kaum hörbare Wasserkühlung ersetzt. Diese besteht aus Pumpe, Radiator mit Lüfter, Ausgleichsbehälter und dem Aufsatz für das E3D V6. Eine Wasserkühlung ist besser, ermöglicht einen geschlossenen Druckraum und sieht schön aus. Den Alu-Kühlkörper der Düse habe ich bearbeitet, sodass die Kühlflüssigkeit optimal hindurchfließen kann. 16. Leise Noctua Lüfter Die zwei 40 mm großen Noctua Lüfter am Hot-End sind gegenüber billigen China Lüftern kaum hörbar. Die Kühlleistung ist leider etwas gesunken aber immer noch absolut ausreichend. Resümee: Das Druckbett wurde 2 cm in alle Richtungen kleiner (185x185x185), was ich für diese großen Verbesserung verkraften kann. Ein End-Stop-Schalter muss auch ein bisschen versetzt werden. Der UMO+ ist jetzt durch das Duet Board und die Wasserkühlung extrem leise geworden. Die aufgelisteten Upgrades bringen den UMO+ auf ein ganz neues Level. Durch austauschbare Aufsätze, die man in in wenigen Minuten austauschen kann, erschafft man neue Möglichkeiten. Ich denke in naher Zukunft an Dual-Druckkopf oder zum Beispiel, wie bereits oben genannt, eine Laser-Diode. Der Drucker bzw. das Druckbett ist durch die 8 mm Achsen sehr stabil geworden und die Druckqualität hat sich deutlich verbessert.
  15. zerspaner_gerd

    Verkaufe UM2/UM2+/UMO+ Board´s

    Ich Verkaufe meine nicht mehr benötigte UM2 Board´s Und bevor ich es auf eBay versuche frage ich hier mal nach! Einmal ein Originales Ultimaker Board, unverändert Das war ca. 1 Jahr im einsatz Dan habe ich mir das Originale Board als Ersatzteil beiseite gelegt und ein China Board gekauft, der Grund war weil Ultimaker den 5ten Stepper Treiber entfernt hat und ich wollte da nicht ohne Board da stehen. Wusste nur noch nicht das es schon bessere Boards auf den markt gibt. Auf den China Board Treiber habe ich kleine Kühler installiert und TL-Smoother sind noch angeschlossen War auch nur ca. 1 Jahr in Einsatz Zur Elektronik habe ich kein Unterschied zu den Originalen festgestellt, nur die Stecker sind hier und da etwas krumm und die Hinteren Stecker (USB, Strom, Schalter) haben ein paar mm unterschiedliche Abstände sodass ich die Aussparungen am Gehäuse des Ultimaker etwas ausfräsen musste (evtl. vorher kontrollieren?) Und es war das Display Board noch dabei, dies hatte ich aber noch nicht montiert Falls Fragen schreibt einfach Gruß
  16. Hello everyone, I was recently looking for replacement XY shafts on Robotdigg, and it wasn't available. Yesterday, they got back to me to tell me that they now stock the shafts! They are 6mm OD, 267 mm long. For anyone looking for them, here's the link: https://www.robotdigg.com/product/1047 . Cheers! Note: I'm not being paid by Robotdigg to say any of this; it's just a great place to get cheap parts!
  17. Hello, i'd like to upgrade this t Umo+ single extruder to dual by adding parts , not changing the main extruder head itself .so any designs and information for this ?
  18. AminMissaoui

    Umo+ esteps too much issues

    So i have been trying to do the esteps for my umo+ The initial e-step value is +836.0 I asked for 100mm filament in the printer and i got only 45mm ! I made the equation and i got 1857.77 as a new value for my esteps wich is too high i think. Now each time i ask the printer to extrude filament, it starts retracting after that.... Too much issues in one poeration :) can anyone help?
  19. Hello, anyone have any experience with paste extruders ?
  20. Hello, anyone have any experience with paste extruder for umo+?
  21. AminMissaoui

    UMO+ e-steps

    Hi, I want to learn how to to do the e-steps for my umo+ but i cant figure out how to extrude filament from Marlin firmware. Is there a specific firmware version that i should use? Thanks
  22. shadowfiend

    Manual Mesh Bed Leveling

    Hi firmware gurus! So I have been having problems with bed levelling on my UMO with official heated bed upgrade and strongly suspect that the glass is not flat. Then found this video and it blew my mind! Manual Mesh Bed Leveling - YouTube I have searched for any info on someone doing this on an Ultimaker Original, but can not find anything. I recently updated the firmware over USB from Cura latest version I think. From the Ulticontroller:- Firmware version Ultimaker: DEV GIthub checkout May 3 2018 16:59:11 In the video they guy says to search for Mesh Bed Levelling in the configuration.h tab (from Arduino software) and enable it there. I did this but there is no Mesh Bed Levelling in my version of the firmware. So my questions are:- Has anybody done this and would anybody be able to explain how to do it please? Many thanks in advance. Cheers, Ian.
  23. AminMissaoui

    umo+ Isolateur Tube

    Hi, I have a question about Isolateur Tube that comes by default with the umo+ kit is it 3mm? Thanks
  24. AminMissaoui

    UMO+ Shaking

    Hi gyus, I have an issue with My UMO+ that i just assembled, when it reaches the x/y limits it starts shaking badly, In consequence some of the bolts are getting loosen up. Any ideas on how to fix this problem? Thanks
  25. Hi all, I recently bought an Ultimaker original plus and i am completely new to 3d printing (except for the 3d modeling). I tried printing the little robot and a skull i designed myself and they turned out to be great, but today i tried printing something a bit bigger and it doesn't work out very well. I'm trying to print 3 donut shaped objects next to eachother. When i start the print everything is fine and it looks good but further in the proces it fails. the adhesive plate it makes for the first donut is good, for the second it is a bit worse and the third is just completely ruined (what i noticed at the third donut is that the pla didn't stick to the plate very well anymore. I tried recalabrating the bed and without adhesive plate. I use PLA, nozzle temperature is 200C and the bed is 60C. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qlqxDfhDvadZlz3k1 https://photos.app.goo.gl/4vyxAy0S6RCdtE6U2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/voMmmpz3GJ19NYVM9 https://photos.app.goo.gl/g5NDKhmTRwSeUizX7 Thanks

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