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3D printer

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  1. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  2. Hi everyone i'm totally new to 3d printing i just got my hands on a UMO without a board control (v1.5.7) i have tried finding it for a while but no luck. i searched i lil bit about board control that can replace it so i found most of the ppl use the ramps 1.4 my question is will it work on UMO ? if so does it take the same power supply !? also if anyone have another ideas i'm all ears.
  3. I have installed a new firmware on the UM0. The firmware assumes that my UMO has a heatable bed. He did not and when printing now the UMO waits until it is heated - So never 😁 Where do I get my old firmware e.g.15.02 again ? About a tool I created a hex file for Marlin , but there is also the heatable bed in it any link or attachement with verg old UMO firmware for me ?
  4. Hi Ich habe auf dem UM0 eine neue Firmware eingespielt . Die Firmware geht davon aus das mein UMO ein beheizbares bed hat Hat er nicht und beim Druck wartet er jetzt bis es aufgeheizt ist - Also niemals 😁 Wo bekomme ich meine alte Firmware 15.02 wieder her ? Über ein Tool habe ich mir ein hex file für Marlin mal zusammengebauen lassen , aber da ist auch das beheizbare bed drin
  5. Hello guys, I am trying to use the bUltimaker to create a firmware for my Ultimaker Original after I have installed many upgrades like UM2 head and Ultimaker heated bed but I am having difficulties to find the correct temperature sensor on bUltimaker to generate my firmware. So, what I have is: UMO with 1.5.7 Board Compete UM2 head, with fans, temperature sensor and heater cartridge Heated bed https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254116018350 Could someone guide me on right direction on which temperature sensor choose on BULtimaker. https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ Thanks in advance.
  6. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for better and better print quality, your eyes get drawn to smaller anomalies in the printed surface. Even with slow outer perimeter speeds and acceleration, I see ripples at sharp direction changes. I also see slight Z banding that I believe is from the bowden tube changing the print head height slightly. Supporting the print head with 8mm rods instead, will certainly increase stiffness. But also increase the inertial forces. My guess is that there is an optimal diameter... I just am not sure exactly where that lies. Has anyone put some serious thought into this? My calculations show that a 6mm rod weighs ~60g, while 8mm is ~105g. That is a total weight gain of ~90g. This weight gain is distributed evenly along the length of the shaft though, so not all of it contributes to inertial forces that deflect the shafts. Some is put fairly directly into the XY blocks themselves. I think it would be fair to say only ~75% of the increased inertial force works to bend the shafts. Misumi does have hollow 8mm linear motion shaft. The ID is 3mm, which doesn't reduce the weight all that much. Each shaft would drop from 105g to 90g. Not a bad reduction though. LM6UU = 8g and LM8UU = 13g. So another 10g of weight gain there, entirely on the head. So, we have added ~55g of weight to the head. (using hollow shaft) The next step would be to calculate and compare the increase in stiffness (reduced deflection), against the increase in acceleration forces, for a given realistic printer move...
  7. Hi Ich habe einen UM Original ausgegraben Der Vorbesitzer hat aber die falschen Federn (gelb) mitgeliefert . Die sind zu zu lang und zu hart Hat jemand ein Idee , welche passen könnten
  8. Hallo, mein UMO verstopft immer wieder oberhalb der Düse im Hotend. Ich habe schon mehrfach alles auseinander gebaut und darauf geachtet, das keine Spalte zwischen Düse und dem Röhrchen darüber sind. Der Schlauch ist auch neu und das Teflonteil auch. Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe Gruß Daniel
  9. Hi all, After many prints on my Ultimaker, the 19V power supply finally packed in. Looking around the house I found a couple of 20V Laptop chargers (135W / 200W) and they both have the same plug type. Is it safe to use a 20V power supply? (the watts should be fine since it should only pull what it needs) Also, does anyone have any idea why the display on the ulticontroller looks cloudy and a bit dull when using the original power supply (before it broke when new) but perfectly clear and bright when plugging in the USB instead? Cheers
  10. Bonjour, Pour mémo et pour ceux que ça pourrait intéresser. Voici la façon dont j'ais configuré un détecteur de filament sur mon Ultimaker Original. Je suis actuellement avec un Marlin Quelque chose comme ça : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285504/makes Je me suis appuyé sur ce tuto : L'option changement de filament doit être activée (M600), c'est mon cas, je regarde donc dans mon configuration.h : /** * Filament Runout Sensors * Mechanical or opto endstops are used to check for the presence of filament. * * RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN for the first runout sensor. * For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN, FIL_RUNOUT2_PIN, etc. */ #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR //VIVIS activation du detecteur de filament #if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR) #define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 followed by M500. #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each. #define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOW // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present. #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins. //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins. // Set one or more commands to execute on filament runout. // (After 'M412 H' Marlin will ask the host to handle the process.) #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600" // After a runout is detected, continue printing this length of filament // before executing the runout script. Useful for a sensor at the end of // a feed tube. Requires 4 bytes SRAM per sensor, plus 4 bytes overhead. //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25 #ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM // Enable this option to use an encoder disc that toggles the runout pin // as the filament moves. (Be sure to set FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM // large enough to avoid false positives.) //#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR #endif #endif "For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN" donc je regarde dans pins/ramps/pins_ultimaker.h (cf vidéo plus haut): // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 11 Alors on tente : #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR //VIVIS activation du detecteur de filament #if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR) #define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 11 //VIVIS yolo on se tente de brancher le detecteur sur le pin 11 du EXT3 4 #define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 followed by M500. #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each. #define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOW // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present. #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins. //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins. Je branche deux fils au niveau de l'EXT3 (j'en profite pour souder des connecteurs), un sur GND et l'autre sur le pin 11 CA FONCTIONNE !! Lorsque les fils ne se touchent pas ça imprime, si je les met en contacte ça lance le script M600 (changement de filament). Pour le détecteur préfabriqué acheté sur Aliexpress j'ajoute le +5V. J'ai pris un détecteur près fabriqué mais je trouve qu'il y a plus de friction, je vais peut être garder celui que j'ai fait moi même qu'on voit sur la première photo du post.. Modif comit sur mon github : https://github.com/Ecoologeek/Marlin-pour-Ultimaker-Original-Custom
  11. Hello All, I thought I was going to get to 3D printing tonight, and just like any printer that hasn't been used in a few years and was updated, it's now non-functional. When I set up the printer from storage, the power switch was already on, so it just powered on right away, but that should affect what I'm about to explain. I think it probably just jumped too far up on this update and now is corrupted. So, I downloaded the latest Cura as any sane person would do, went through the normal motions of installing, and then checked for firmware and then proceeded to update. The firmware said it installed, and then the screen started showing letters in every other place holder on the screen. I specifically remember Q changing to q, starting from the top and then proceeding like reading in the Western world. Cura has destroyed all functionality of the printer now, and it seems like no one has had this issue, or that UMO support articles are just getting scrubbed. I get that the printer is old, but the Makerbot Replicator 1 world has literally 1000X the articles for things like this, so am I just unlucky? I even tried that Marlin firmware builder, flashed it through Cura, etc. and that did not change anything with respect to the screen displaying correctly. The screen just displays as shown in the attached image. I don't think we've used this printer in 3 years, but it printed last time and now all I hear is my Dad's lesson of, "This is why you don't do updates." Why can I not solve my own problem by just being able to download the literal original version of the firmware? Ultimaker, c'mon...
  12. Hallo, bin neu hier im Forum. Habe heute einen problembehafteten UMO gekauft, der alles viel zu flach druckt. Mir ist schon beim manuellen Verfahren der Z-Achse aufgefallen, das er bei Z170 höchstens 60mm gefahren ist. Rechts sieht man ein Benchy aus einem korrekt eingestellten Drucker. Der Vorbesitzer hat wohl irgendwo dran eingestellt, er weiss aber nicht mehr wo. Würde mich freuen, wenn mir jemand helfen könnte. Liegt es vielleicht an den Z-Steps, die man im Display verstellen kann? Gruß Donker
  13. Ik heb "opdracht" gekregen om een Ultimaker Original (volgens mij) aan de praat te krijgen om vervolgens weer te gaan gebruiken op een basisschool. 3D printers zijn voor mij nieuw, dus ik dacht aansluiten en kijken wat ie doet. Hij gaat wel aan, het display licht op, maar ik zie geen menu of iets. Als ik op het knopje druk op de controller dan hoor ik een piepje en als ik aan de knop draai zie ik niets gebeuren. Op mijn laptop heb ik Cura geïnstalleerd (laatste versie) en die kan wel goed verbinden met de 3D printer. Ik heb de firmware succesvol kunnen updaten. Echter als ik de printer probeer te kalibreren, dan maakt ie rare geluiden en beweegt de printkop minimaal (bijna niet). Heeft iemand tips om mij verder op gang te helpen?
  14. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  15. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  16. Hi All, Although I am the first owner of my UMO, I am no way an expert. I have been making things, but I am not happy with the results. In hindsight printing always has been troublesome. Let's say mixed results. But more and more I am using the printer in projects and I have seen much better print quality than what I get. Often I have vertical outer walls not connected, or the top layer not showing a closed surface. So a simple print quality topic? No! Recently I printed 3 clamps and Cura told me they should weigh 59 grams. I doubted that and so put the clamps on the scales. It turned out to be only 29 grams. And I should tell you that I am printing at 110% material and 210°C. So the 29 grams would have been only 26 grams at 100%. So close to 50%. Oh, the feeder is wrong? Maybe the stepper is doing half steps? I took the Bowden cable fron the head , cut the filament flush and had it extrude 100mm. And it was exactly 100mm. The gear moves about 4.25 revolution. All good. However, when I re-mount the Bowden cable, preheat the thing, and mark the filament 100mm before the feeder and then extrude 100mm only 60mm went in. I have listened closely but I do not hear steps being lost. So it is slip then? Maybe a bit more force in the feeder? No! it does not make any difference. Knurled bolt blunt? No! Maybe dirt in the nozzle? Well it is obviously not new but I took it out, got the material out and could look through. Used dentist tools and had a good look inside the nozzle; it looks like a new one. When taking the nozzle out I saw that the nozzle was not really against the aluminium block, so no good thermal contact. I remounted it so that the nozzle now is firmly in and against the Alu block. After all this about 75mm go into the feeder when I ask for 100mm. Next I elevated the temperature because I saw with a thermal camera that the temperature of the nozzle is only 185°C. I ended up setting the temperature at 240°C. And that for PLA. It should come out brown, what ever colour you put in, isn't it? Is my thermocouple gone? But still at 240°C.... it extrudes only 82mm when I ask for 100m. I am at the end of ideas. Please help. Regards, Cube.
  17. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan control options More accurate / smooth stepper motion Network connectivity More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features. Touchscreen support would be nice Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place. Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful. Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options. The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro. If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!
  18. I woke up this morning to my print being prematurely halted and my UMO ulticontroller stating "error: max temp". I turned off the printer then turned it back on to restart the print. Print started fine, but when I came back 20 mins later the same error message was there and my nozzle said it was well over 300 C! Why is my printer giving this error about max temp? How can I fix it?
  19. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  20. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  21. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare nozzles in various sizes and many other spare parts.Price EUR 349 / US$ 399 excl. shipping. EU buyers preferred.A great starter set so let me know if you are interested! Regards, Ralph Zoontjens - Product Designer - www.id-z.one
  22. Hello everybody, My Ultimaker Original Has some modifications like DIY Hot Bed (with 100K thermistor), axes motors outside the machine and so on. I generally modify my firmware from the "firmware builder" provided by this website. I'm now working on a new concept for a better usage of my second nozzle and I need to activate the pins from 8 to 13 that are not used by my board so far (version 1.5.7.). I've wired them to make some experiments: I've connected a LEd to see if they can be activated, they blink twice when I turn my printer on. But I don't know how to use them, I guess I need to make some adjustement on the firmware. CAN SOMEONE HELP ME ON IT? (My final intention is to activate them when my printer passes from a nozzle to the other, I will add some line of Gcode in the cura's options in machine settings) Thank you.
  23. Version 1.0.0


    This is a bin to fit in the door pockets of a MK1 Nissan Qashqai (2007-2013) The bin is primarily designed for the front door, to fit where a drink bottle is intended to go. It will also fit the back door. The Qashqai has nowhere to put sweet papers and other small pieces of litter, hence this bin. I printed this in black PLA on my UMO with a layer thickness of 0.25.
  24. Hi there, i am upgrading my ultimaker orginal from standart dual extrusion to a rotary printhead. I got inspired of the rotary printhead long time ago but i did never started to design my own one for the ultimaker till now. here are some videos which inspired me: My goals are: -having fun -no oozing -fast switching between heads -very light printhead to keep the accelaration high -printing without prime tower, ooze shield... to save print time -using magnets for rotary fixing -using the x-axis to switch between the heads -get a easy to print design in the end so anybody who want it can print it -integrate e3d v6 hotends -upgrade to e3d titan extruder (not on the printhead) -customise original firmware -generate printing profiles I already redisigned my first dual head (never printed only disigned) to version 2 Old design: New design: -new bearing rotary axes -more magnets (clamping of the hotends fan duct) This only the beta type to try out the mechnical characteristics of the rotary axis. I already printed 75% of it, pictures coming soon Feel free to ask questions, and of course if you have further ideas tell me. Greetings Zeno
  25. Hallo, habe heute meinen Ultimaker Original nach einigen Stunden zusammenbauen das erste mal angesteckt, und angeschalten. Leider hat nur die LED der Platine am Hotend geleuchtet, der UltiController hatte nur ein blaues Display mit zwei weißen Streifen in den Zeilen 1 und 3 angezeigt, und die Motoren haben "vibriert" und komische Geräusche gemacht. Ich habe dann die Anschlüsse des UltiControllers geprüft, der Stecker mit der Bezeichnung EXP1 ging auf EXP1 und EXP2 auf EXP2. Dann habe ich das Gerät noch einmal angeschalten, und bemerkt, dass die Schrittmotortreiber nach etwa 4-5 Sekunden extrem heiß werden. Ich habe dann auch noch einmal die ganze Verkabelung geprüft, alles war richtig angeschlossen. Ich hoffe, dass mir jemand weiterhelfen kann!
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