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  1. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare nozzles in various sizes and many other spare parts.Price EUR 349 / US$ 399 excl. shipping. EU buyers preferred.A great starter set so let me know if you are interested! Regards, Ralph Zoontjens - Product Designer - www.id-z.one
  2. Hello everybody, My Ultimaker Original Has some modifications like DIY Hot Bed (with 100K thermistor), axes motors outside the machine and so on. I generally modify my firmware from the "firmware builder" provided by this website. I'm now working on a new concept for a better usage of my second nozzle and I need to activate the pins from 8 to 13 that are not used by my board so far (version 1.5.7.). I've wired them to make some experiments: I've connected a LEd to see if they can be activated, they blink twice when I turn my printer on. But I don't know how to use them, I guess I need to make some adjustement on the firmware. CAN SOMEONE HELP ME ON IT? (My final intention is to activate them when my printer passes from a nozzle to the other, I will add some line of Gcode in the cura's options in machine settings) Thank you.
  3. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  4. highlea

    Qashqai Bin

    Version 1.0.0

    8 downloads

    This is a bin to fit in the door pockets of a MK1 Nissan Qashqai (2007-2013) The bin is primarily designed for the front door, to fit where a drink bottle is intended to go. It will also fit the back door. The Qashqai has nowhere to put sweet papers and other small pieces of litter, hence this bin. I printed this in black PLA on my UMO with a layer thickness of 0.25.
  5. Hi there, i am upgrading my ultimaker orginal from standart dual extrusion to a rotary printhead. I got inspired of the rotary printhead long time ago but i did never started to design my own one for the ultimaker till now. here are some videos which inspired me: My goals are: -having fun -no oozing -fast switching between heads -very light printhead to keep the accelaration high -printing without prime tower, ooze shield... to save print time -using magnets for rotary fixing -using the x-axis to switch between the heads -get a easy to print design in the end so anybody who want it can print it -integrate e3d v6 hotends -upgrade to e3d titan extruder (not on the printhead) -customise original firmware -generate printing profiles I already redisigned my first dual head (never printed only disigned) to version 2 Old design: New design: -new bearing rotary axes -more magnets (clamping of the hotends fan duct) This only the beta type to try out the mechnical characteristics of the rotary axis. I already printed 75% of it, pictures coming soon Feel free to ask questions, and of course if you have further ideas tell me. Greetings Zeno
  6. Hallo, habe heute meinen Ultimaker Original nach einigen Stunden zusammenbauen das erste mal angesteckt, und angeschalten. Leider hat nur die LED der Platine am Hotend geleuchtet, der UltiController hatte nur ein blaues Display mit zwei weißen Streifen in den Zeilen 1 und 3 angezeigt, und die Motoren haben "vibriert" und komische Geräusche gemacht. Ich habe dann die Anschlüsse des UltiControllers geprüft, der Stecker mit der Bezeichnung EXP1 ging auf EXP1 und EXP2 auf EXP2. Dann habe ich das Gerät noch einmal angeschalten, und bemerkt, dass die Schrittmotortreiber nach etwa 4-5 Sekunden extrem heiß werden. Ich habe dann auch noch einmal die ganze Verkabelung geprüft, alles war richtig angeschlossen. Ich hoffe, dass mir jemand weiterhelfen kann!
  7. Hello everyone, I'm very very new to the 3d printing world (a couple of months actually), so the machine-related problems are new to me as well. I'm working with an Ultimaker Original whose problem is that during the print, it suddently stops extruding material. I noticed that the feeder is not pushing the material inside the extruder but sometimes the melted plastic starts flowing only if I push manually, sometimes it doesn't. The material seems deformed inside the nozzle, with a "waterdrop"-like shape. I'm using PLA, I tried to print with 210° C and then I lowered it to 190° but the problem remains, and also the print looks covered in little and rounded scrap of plastic (the pic below shows this issue better than me sorry), but it might be the already printed material that the nozzle is carrying around. Is this a clogged nozzle problem? Or a feeder one? Or is it time for me to buy a flamethrower and baptize the machine with fire? I offer a reward of endless joy and gratitude, plus a bunch of heart emoji.
  8. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1 but the problems seem to persist. Any ideas on what's wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot next? Could there be multiple issues? Thanks for the help.
  9. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  10. I made a custom heated bead for my Ultimaker Original, it has worked for about a year with out an issue. Unfortunately the bed Thermistor shorted with the bed power cable today, neither the Thermistor nor the arduino mega was damaged, though I replaced both anyway. Now the issue that I have, is that the bed temperature shows approximately 800°c and thus causes a max temperature error, this is the same temperature that is displayed when no Thermistor is connected as well as if I connect 100k ohm resistor (its a 100k thermistor, so should show 25°c). This leaves the ultimaker controller as the most likely error source. I don't have one lying around, and the next possible replacement is in china, which would take a month to get shipped (I also don't want to change to a different controller since the system is made for a 19v power supply, and no one carries them anymore). Does anyone know what possible components on the board could have fried? or could I just switch to the sensor 2 on the board, and how would I set that up in the firmware? Thanks
  11. Hi everybody! I'm currently modding my UMO with 2 nozzles using a similar concept used by the Ultimaker3 (retracting second extruder). But I have some issue to set it properly on Cura. I cannot set the gap between the nozzles (i just can set the Z offset between nozzle and the bed and it can be not different fron a nozzle to the other). As you can image i need to tell to cura "change the hight of the bed when use the second extruder" and also "Go to a specific X/Y position before change extruder" to trig the second extruder to pop up. How to do that? P.S. If it gonna work I will post the project. Thak you all!
  12. Recently, the readings of the thermistor on my UMO are limited. A completely cold printhead will show ~120°C, when heating up this value does not change until the printhead actually reaches ~120°C. Then the temperature readings seem to be accurate within a margin of error. This all wouldn't be a problem, if the printer wouldn't abort heating before the printhead reached said thereshold. Of course the first thought is about a defect component, so I replaced: The thermistor The thermocouple The Ultiboard The Arduino I also checked the cables, of course. On the new arduino I flashed a customized fork of the Marlin firmware available on GitHub, forked from the Marlin_UM_HeatedBedUpgrade branch. Here's the link to my repo: https://github.com/MarkusA380/Marlin What could be the problem?
  13. Hi all, This is my first time posting here so if there is anything I don't do correctly please let me know. Thanks! So I am working on adding a DIY heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. I am going the route of basically recreating the HBK on my own. By this I mean I got the aluminum build platform and UM2 style heatbed. The heatbed I got stated it had a 100k thermistor built in. My current design consists of the heatbed powered directly from a 24v power supply which is switched via a Solid State DC relay by the Ultimaker board. I have the relay hooked up to the "Heatbed" screw terminals on the ultimaker board. The thermistor wires are hooked into Temp3 screw terminals. I already soldered in the 4.7k resistor into the R4 position on the board. I tried updating the firmware via the Ultimaker firmware builder but was unsure what selection to choose for my thermistor (from the dropdown menu). I am running into issues with the board not recognizing the thermistor which could be a product of this. The LCD reads 100/0 for the bed and when I try to set a temp for it, it immediately clears it back to 0. I have the board currently detached from the rest of the printer (besides the arduino), and couldn't imagine this would cause any problems, but figured it was worth mentioning. So my question is, what selection should work for the 100k thermistor and 4.7k resistor in the ultimaker firmware builder? Or am I better off using something else to do so. I picked one of the 100k thermistor options from the dropdown, but if I did pick correctly where should I look next as the cause of these problems. Thank you all!!
  14. As the title says. Hopefully someone has prior knowledge or easy access to this info. I would like to explain my need to know. Some time ago I rigged my hot end up with a print cooling manifold that's supplied by compressed air. It's lighter and provides improved cooling capacity with an even 'spray'. It's connected to my air compressor at about 60psi and supplied by a hose added to the bowden bundle. The weakness of the setup is that the only means of control is by manually adjusting a small thumb screw needle valve. It can range from off to a lot of cooling I want to buy an industrial PWM (proportional) flow control valve and connect it thru the existing print fan circuit. Thus the need to start with an understanding of the target circuits capacities. I think I can find the right valve for $125 or less. Depending on the PWM signal, a small converter device may be needed for a boost. Anyone? Thanks in advance.. P.S. Being able to only select from a predefined set of thread tags seems very limiting. Can threads be searched by their tag definitions? Feasible or useful to have user defined tags?
  15. So i have been trying to do the esteps for my umo+ The initial e-step value is +836.0 I asked for 100mm filament in the printer and i got only 45mm ! I made the equation and i got 1857.77 as a new value for my esteps wich is too high i think. Now each time i ask the printer to extrude filament, it starts retracting after that.... Too much issues in one poeration :) can anyone help?
  16. Hi, I want to learn how to to do the e-steps for my umo+ but i cant figure out how to extrude filament from Marlin firmware. Is there a specific firmware version that i should use? Thanks
  17. Hello all, I know this seems to be a common fault with Ultimaker Original machines, but I seem to have tried all remedies suggested and it still refuses to work! I have: Put Belt tensioners on Long belts Tightened the short belts by pushing down the motor Tightened the cross axis rod block (Thinner rods which mount to the print head) Made sure hot end doesn't wobble/move freely Checked extrusion rates Tightened all the pulleys to the rods Made sure the cross rods are square The errors seem to be happening at 45* from the X and Y, so it leads me to think it's a belt (slack) issue, but with tightening every single belt, I'm at a loss! I hope someone might have some suggestions? Regards, Alex Bottom right circle seems to show the defect clearly as it has gaps in the walls at half one and half seven. It should be solid like the other quarters.
  18. I own the Ultimaker Original HBK, however, I am facing a couple of difficulties with it, which I am hoping perhaps someone could help with? The first is that the thermoster readings are way off on both the Heatbed and the Extruder heat. Even at rest the best I can get is 40 degrees for the HB and 59 degrees for the extruder. For both of the readings; I have tried the Ultimaker Firmware builder and a Marlin build with a new board and Arduino Mega 2560 and all combinations of the thermostats and thermoster, and unfortunately the 59 degree reading on the hotend came through setting the “10K (not recommended for hotend) thermoster!” In addition to that problem, comes the second one. The HB is heating up nicely! So is the Hotend, however, at the business end of the LCD (I am now using a new Smart controller as I initially thought there might have been an issue with the LCD) the temperature goes backwards:- 59, 57, 53, 49, 33 etc, you get the picture, until it alarms out at a MIN TEMP ERROR! I’ve looked at reversing the wires, however this hasn’t helped. I at a loss, please can you help? Kindly asking for some kind of advice
  19. Hey all, so I've been trying to get an older Ultimaker working and I'm having a fair bit of issue and I'm not sure what to do at this point. So the Z-Axis isn't homing right to start with, in fact it will click the switch while homing then move down about an 8th of an inch for no reason. I've tried adjusting the screw that hits the switch and moving the switch itself, but the problem still persists. Because of this I'm completely incapable of leveling the bed (the screws aren't long enough) and also when I try to print anything despite the issues it refuses to move up or down. All of the limiters are clear of debris and all of the connections are secure and I've updated the firmware multiple times to double check. I don't know what else it could be
  20. I have been an owner of the Ultimaker Original+ for a little around a year and have been having troubles with my temperature sensor. I am unable to remove it from the aluminum heating block, and it is not outputting the correct temperatures. What would be my best option in order to fix it? The printer keeps outputting errors during print such as Maximum and Minimum Temperature. I have been tinkering with it for a week and am unable to get it to work reliably. I'm pretty sure one of the wires is broken off of the sensor, but not entirely sure. Does anyone know of a way to request one from Ultimaker, or to purchase from a 3rd party? I have been unable to find it on any of the reseller websites. Thanks, Ethan
  21. This is for the users that want to get their Zebra Stripes removed (almost completely) What does it do It fixes the Zebra stripes from the stepper motors that UMO, UM2 and UM3 use (as it today 6 August 2017) Left is WITH the TL-Smooth, Right is WITHOUT. Printed on the same day, same spool, same gcode Before and After installing them. The print test used is the Curve Test by @Valcrow https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print The issue is documented on this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes On that post you will find that one way to fix it is by doing soldering on the SMD board, a delicate endeavor not for everyone. So a month ago googling I found this TL-Smooth chips that are being sold on a aliexpress shop, bough them and test them. So far it's been a week since I installed them and I don't see any issue after using the printer that has them for the whole week. Does that mean that is safe? No. Any mod ofc might have side effects, and since isn't a UM product, who knows. But IMHO it works nice and doesn't have side effects (that I can see so far). If I find any I'll update this post ofc. The guy that found that this kind if circuits fixes the Decay-something that makes the problem, was this guy http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html The china guys sell it without mention the guy that made all the hard work, but also he never did sell them or offer them, so is a middle ground grey area, where the users benefit from this knowhow. Ofc the little boards are around 8€ for 4 steppers, so it's quite cheap, and they send it quite nicely (except the cables that they sent me wrong like they show on their aliexpress page, so at least they warn about it). So... What you get when it arrives You get 4 plastic thingys, to put the chip in, they seem to compress with heat, but I didn't tested that since doesn't seem important (or is it?) First thing to do, is to check the wire cables. The seller warns about this, and it's important to do it right. That's why I made this simple video showing the process of rearranging the cables and, ofc, twisting the pairs to avoid electrical noise. How to install them Turn off the machine (doh!) Remove the Power Plug Now, without the power cable in. Turn ON and OFF the machine. This will discharge the capacitators, so there's no residual power on the Board. Turn the printer so you can access the board and remove the cover Now, one by one, unplug the motor from the board, and plug them on the TL-Smooth. To remove the cable, use your nails from the corners and push, don't pull the cables to avoid damaging them: Do it on all your steppers, close the cover, and arrange them so they don't disturb you. Warning I take zero responsibility if anyone gets his board damaged, or if their version doesn't work. I don't sell nor promote this stuff. I just found it, bought it and share my results. Important Warning Triple check the cables are right 'in' and they don't go out when pulling them (gently). If that happens you might have them wrong when you reinserted them. Update Last week found an important issue with torque with this stuff on. I need to debug it when I get time but basically if your printer is at the torque limit (for x/y/e) this will affect the prints. Specially the extruder since it's more sensitive to this. I'll test other TL-Smooth version but probably will just move to a Duet3D board and forget about um2 boards.
  22. Ik loop stage bij een school waar ze een Ultimaker Original (+?) hebben staan die al een tijd niet werkt. Ze hebben mij de opdracht gegeven om uit te zoeken hoe de printer weer werkend te krijgen. Hoe kan ik het beste uitvinden of de printer compleet is en welke problemen er zijn? Hopelijk zijn de bijgevoegde foto's duidelijk genoeg. Mvg, Niels
  23. Hi I just baught me a new thermal coupler for my umo, but i have a problem. is says it is 94 or 95 C when i turn on the machine. i tryed to toutch the hot end and it is room temprature. i have tried to heat the hotend but after a few seconds it gives me the error message heating failed. what can i do to fix this?
  24. Hoi, Nieuw hier op het forum, heb me een goed jaar geleden op het 3d printen gestort, 2dehands anet a8 gekocht, daarna een FLSUN i3. De Anet A8 is ondertussen omgebouwd tot een am8. Veel plezier al beleeft aan beide printers. Ben steeds cura aan het gebruiken geweest, en altijd de nieuwe versies aan het volgen geweest. Mijn huiidige printers, hoewel ze goed werken en als ik er veel tijd en aandacht aan geef komen er best goede prints uit (naar mijn mening dan toch) Ik zou graag een tweedehands Ultimaker original willen aanschaffen, is dit een verstandige keuze of gaat de ervaring/ kwaliteit/ plezier eraan niet beter zijn dan met de huidige printers? Met andere woorden is een UMO de moeite om aan te schaffen? Alvast bedankt, Ben
  25. I have made a nice Ultibot (ultimaker robot remix pack) dual extrusion print with my UMO. Thanks to Stijn van der Linden for this fantastic object. Nice results with the newest Cura. I have rebuild the print-head, i have removed the "Corrugated spring washer".All parts are hold together with 4 extra "Lock nuts M3" and 4 extra "square nuts M3" and extra "washers". The build plate leveling and print-head fine tuning is not so difficult anymore.
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