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Found 70 results

  1. cesern

    Low cost good filament

    ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  2. I made a custom heated bead for my Ultimaker Original, it has worked for about a year with out an issue. Unfortunately the bed Thermistor shorted with the bed power cable today, neither the Thermistor nor the arduino mega was damaged, though I replaced both anyway. Now the issue that I have, is that the bed temperature shows approximately 800°c and thus causes a max temperature error, this is the same temperature that is displayed when no Thermistor is connected as well as if I connect 100k ohm resistor (its a 100k thermistor, so should show 25°c). This leaves the ultimaker controller as the most likely error source. I don't have one lying around, and the next possible replacement is in china, which would take a month to get shipped (I also don't want to change to a different controller since the system is made for a 19v power supply, and no one carries them anymore). Does anyone know what possible components on the board could have fried? or could I just switch to the sensor 2 on the board, and how would I set that up in the firmware? Thanks
  3. Hi everybody! I'm currently modding my UMO with 2 nozzles using a similar concept used by the Ultimaker3 (retracting second extruder). But I have some issue to set it properly on Cura. I cannot set the gap between the nozzles (i just can set the Z offset between nozzle and the bed and it can be not different fron a nozzle to the other). As you can image i need to tell to cura "change the hight of the bed when use the second extruder" and also "Go to a specific X/Y position before change extruder" to trig the second extruder to pop up. How to do that? P.S. If it gonna work I will post the project. Thak you all!
  4. Recently, the readings of the thermistor on my UMO are limited. A completely cold printhead will show ~120°C, when heating up this value does not change until the printhead actually reaches ~120°C. Then the temperature readings seem to be accurate within a margin of error. This all wouldn't be a problem, if the printer wouldn't abort heating before the printhead reached said thereshold. Of course the first thought is about a defect component, so I replaced: The thermistor The thermocouple The Ultiboard The Arduino I also checked the cables, of course. On the new arduino I flashed a customized fork of the Marlin firmware available on GitHub, forked from the Marlin_UM_HeatedBedUpgrade branch. Here's the link to my repo: https://github.com/MarkusA380/Marlin What could be the problem?
  5. Hi all, This is my first time posting here so if there is anything I don't do correctly please let me know. Thanks! So I am working on adding a DIY heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. I am going the route of basically recreating the HBK on my own. By this I mean I got the aluminum build platform and UM2 style heatbed. The heatbed I got stated it had a 100k thermistor built in. My current design consists of the heatbed powered directly from a 24v power supply which is switched via a Solid State DC relay by the Ultimaker board. I have the relay hooked up to the "Heatbed" screw terminals on the ultimaker board. The thermistor wires are hooked into Temp3 screw terminals. I already soldered in the 4.7k resistor into the R4 position on the board. I tried updating the firmware via the Ultimaker firmware builder but was unsure what selection to choose for my thermistor (from the dropdown menu). I am running into issues with the board not recognizing the thermistor which could be a product of this. The LCD reads 100/0 for the bed and when I try to set a temp for it, it immediately clears it back to 0. I have the board currently detached from the rest of the printer (besides the arduino), and couldn't imagine this would cause any problems, but figured it was worth mentioning. So my question is, what selection should work for the 100k thermistor and 4.7k resistor in the ultimaker firmware builder? Or am I better off using something else to do so. I picked one of the 100k thermistor options from the dropdown, but if I did pick correctly where should I look next as the cause of these problems. Thank you all!!
  6. As the title says. Hopefully someone has prior knowledge or easy access to this info. I would like to explain my need to know. Some time ago I rigged my hot end up with a print cooling manifold that's supplied by compressed air. It's lighter and provides improved cooling capacity with an even 'spray'. It's connected to my air compressor at about 60psi and supplied by a hose added to the bowden bundle. The weakness of the setup is that the only means of control is by manually adjusting a small thumb screw needle valve. It can range from off to a lot of cooling I want to buy an industrial PWM (proportional) flow control valve and connect it thru the existing print fan circuit. Thus the need to start with an understanding of the target circuits capacities. I think I can find the right valve for $125 or less. Depending on the PWM signal, a small converter device may be needed for a boost. Anyone? Thanks in advance.. P.S. Being able to only select from a predefined set of thread tags seems very limiting. Can threads be searched by their tag definitions? Feasible or useful to have user defined tags?
  7. AminMissaoui

    Umo+ esteps too much issues

    So i have been trying to do the esteps for my umo+ The initial e-step value is +836.0 I asked for 100mm filament in the printer and i got only 45mm ! I made the equation and i got 1857.77 as a new value for my esteps wich is too high i think. Now each time i ask the printer to extrude filament, it starts retracting after that.... Too much issues in one poeration :) can anyone help?
  8. AminMissaoui

    UMO+ e-steps

    Hi, I want to learn how to to do the e-steps for my umo+ but i cant figure out how to extrude filament from Marlin firmware. Is there a specific firmware version that i should use? Thanks
  9. Hello all, I know this seems to be a common fault with Ultimaker Original machines, but I seem to have tried all remedies suggested and it still refuses to work! I have: Put Belt tensioners on Long belts Tightened the short belts by pushing down the motor Tightened the cross axis rod block (Thinner rods which mount to the print head) Made sure hot end doesn't wobble/move freely Checked extrusion rates Tightened all the pulleys to the rods Made sure the cross rods are square The errors seem to be happening at 45* from the X and Y, so it leads me to think it's a belt (slack) issue, but with tightening every single belt, I'm at a loss! I hope someone might have some suggestions? Regards, Alex Bottom right circle seems to show the defect clearly as it has gaps in the walls at half one and half seven. It should be solid like the other quarters.
  10. I own the Ultimaker Original HBK, however, I am facing a couple of difficulties with it, which I am hoping perhaps someone could help with? The first is that the thermoster readings are way off on both the Heatbed and the Extruder heat. Even at rest the best I can get is 40 degrees for the HB and 59 degrees for the extruder. For both of the readings; I have tried the Ultimaker Firmware builder and a Marlin build with a new board and Arduino Mega 2560 and all combinations of the thermostats and thermoster, and unfortunately the 59 degree reading on the hotend came through setting the “10K (not recommended for hotend) thermoster!” In addition to that problem, comes the second one. The HB is heating up nicely! So is the Hotend, however, at the business end of the LCD (I am now using a new Smart controller as I initially thought there might have been an issue with the LCD) the temperature goes backwards:- 59, 57, 53, 49, 33 etc, you get the picture, until it alarms out at a MIN TEMP ERROR! I’ve looked at reversing the wires, however this hasn’t helped. I at a loss, please can you help? Kindly asking for some kind of advice
  11. Hey all, so I've been trying to get an older Ultimaker working and I'm having a fair bit of issue and I'm not sure what to do at this point. So the Z-Axis isn't homing right to start with, in fact it will click the switch while homing then move down about an 8th of an inch for no reason. I've tried adjusting the screw that hits the switch and moving the switch itself, but the problem still persists. Because of this I'm completely incapable of leveling the bed (the screws aren't long enough) and also when I try to print anything despite the issues it refuses to move up or down. All of the limiters are clear of debris and all of the connections are secure and I've updated the firmware multiple times to double check. I don't know what else it could be
  12. I have been an owner of the Ultimaker Original+ for a little around a year and have been having troubles with my temperature sensor. I am unable to remove it from the aluminum heating block, and it is not outputting the correct temperatures. What would be my best option in order to fix it? The printer keeps outputting errors during print such as Maximum and Minimum Temperature. I have been tinkering with it for a week and am unable to get it to work reliably. I'm pretty sure one of the wires is broken off of the sensor, but not entirely sure. Does anyone know of a way to request one from Ultimaker, or to purchase from a 3rd party? I have been unable to find it on any of the reseller websites. Thanks, Ethan
  13. This is for the users that want to get their Zebra Stripes removed (almost completely) What does it do It fixes the Zebra stripes from the stepper motors that UMO, UM2 and UM3 use (as it today 6 August 2017) Left is WITH the TL-Smooth, Right is WITHOUT. Printed on the same day, same spool, same gcode Before and After installing them. The print test used is the Curve Test by @Valcrow https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print The issue is documented on this post https://ultimaker.com/en/community/16357-why-does-my-print-have-tiny-zebra-stripes On that post you will find that one way to fix it is by doing soldering on the SMD board, a delicate endeavor not for everyone. So a month ago googling I found this TL-Smooth chips that are being sold on a aliexpress shop, bough them and test them. So far it's been a week since I installed them and I don't see any issue after using the printer that has them for the whole week. Does that mean that is safe? No. Any mod ofc might have side effects, and since isn't a UM product, who knows. But IMHO it works nice and doesn't have side effects (that I can see so far). If I find any I'll update this post ofc. The guy that found that this kind if circuits fixes the Decay-something that makes the problem, was this guy http://www.engineerination.com/2015/02/drv8825-missing-steps.html The china guys sell it without mention the guy that made all the hard work, but also he never did sell them or offer them, so is a middle ground grey area, where the users benefit from this knowhow. Ofc the little boards are around 8€ for 4 steppers, so it's quite cheap, and they send it quite nicely (except the cables that they sent me wrong like they show on their aliexpress page, so at least they warn about it). So... What you get when it arrives You get 4 plastic thingys, to put the chip in, they seem to compress with heat, but I didn't tested that since doesn't seem important (or is it?) First thing to do, is to check the wire cables. The seller warns about this, and it's important to do it right. That's why I made this simple video showing the process of rearranging the cables and, ofc, twisting the pairs to avoid electrical noise. How to install them Turn off the machine (doh!) Remove the Power Plug Now, without the power cable in. Turn ON and OFF the machine. This will discharge the capacitators, so there's no residual power on the Board. Turn the printer so you can access the board and remove the cover Now, one by one, unplug the motor from the board, and plug them on the TL-Smooth. To remove the cable, use your nails from the corners and push, don't pull the cables to avoid damaging them: Do it on all your steppers, close the cover, and arrange them so they don't disturb you. Warning I take zero responsibility if anyone gets his board damaged, or if their version doesn't work. I don't sell nor promote this stuff. I just found it, bought it and share my results. Important Warning Triple check the cables are right 'in' and they don't go out when pulling them (gently). If that happens you might have them wrong when you reinserted them. Update Last week found an important issue with torque with this stuff on. I need to debug it when I get time but basically if your printer is at the torque limit (for x/y/e) this will affect the prints. Specially the extruder since it's more sensitive to this. I'll test other TL-Smooth version but probably will just move to a Duet3D board and forget about um2 boards.
  14. ICTstage

    Ultimaker original (+?)

    Ik loop stage bij een school waar ze een Ultimaker Original (+?) hebben staan die al een tijd niet werkt. Ze hebben mij de opdracht gegeven om uit te zoeken hoe de printer weer werkend te krijgen. Hoe kan ik het beste uitvinden of de printer compleet is en welke problemen er zijn? Hopelijk zijn de bijgevoegde foto's duidelijk genoeg. Mvg, Niels
  15. Hi I just baught me a new thermal coupler for my umo, but i have a problem. is says it is 94 or 95 C when i turn on the machine. i tryed to toutch the hot end and it is room temprature. i have tried to heat the hotend but after a few seconds it gives me the error message heating failed. what can i do to fix this?
  16. Bengelen

    Vraagje Ultimaker Original

    Hoi, Nieuw hier op het forum, heb me een goed jaar geleden op het 3d printen gestort, 2dehands anet a8 gekocht, daarna een FLSUN i3. De Anet A8 is ondertussen omgebouwd tot een am8. Veel plezier al beleeft aan beide printers. Ben steeds cura aan het gebruiken geweest, en altijd de nieuwe versies aan het volgen geweest. Mijn huiidige printers, hoewel ze goed werken en als ik er veel tijd en aandacht aan geef komen er best goede prints uit (naar mijn mening dan toch) Ik zou graag een tweedehands Ultimaker original willen aanschaffen, is dit een verstandige keuze of gaat de ervaring/ kwaliteit/ plezier eraan niet beter zijn dan met de huidige printers? Met andere woorden is een UMO de moeite om aan te schaffen? Alvast bedankt, Ben
  17. I have made a nice Ultibot (ultimaker robot remix pack) dual extrusion print with my UMO. Thanks to Stijn van der Linden for this fantastic object. Nice results with the newest Cura. I have rebuild the print-head, i have removed the "Corrugated spring washer".All parts are hold together with 4 extra "Lock nuts M3" and 4 extra "square nuts M3" and extra "washers". The build plate leveling and print-head fine tuning is not so difficult anymore.
  18. Hi, Just got a UMO with a heated bed mod in it. I’m a complete newbie so please be gentle with your replies, however, I wanted to know whether it is possible to put a UM2 Motherboard into the UMO and if so what other adjustments I would need to make? Any advice however basic or complex welcome. Many thanks in advance.
  19. lars86

    UMO Running Marlin 1.1.x

    Hey guys, I have been working on configuring the latest Marlin code release (currently 1.1.6) to use on an Ultimaker Original. I have been through the configuration files to compare to my latest 1.0 build. These are the changes I made to successfully get it printing. Basically, you need to open a couple files in the downloaded Marlin, search for these lines and either remove the '//' to un-comment, or change a defined value. I prefer the program notepad++ for editing. You can use the "language" setting "c" to make it more readable. :EDIT: Okay, I finally got with the program and created my own fork of Marlin. This will make it a lot easier to keep my customizations, while merging in new changes from the Master branch. Here is my branch: https://github.com/CCS86/Marlin/tree/Lars86 This shows a comparison of my changes to the Master: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/compare/1.1.x...CCS86:Lars86 Some of my changes are specific to my modifications: - Official heated bed kit - Stock heater and thermocouple - Direct driven X & Y w/ GT2 belts & pulleys - Upgraded X & Y steppers with half the full step angle from original (hence the microstepping 8 vs 16) - Custom geared stepper extruder drive - A very slight software skew correction. You would want to disable skew correction until you print a test square for yourself. - Use of a REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER Read on to see an explanation of the changes. #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_ULTIMAKER #define POWER_SUPPLY 1 #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 -1 For the official heated bed kit: #define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 20 #define PIDTEMPBED (Enable PID bed control) PID autotune gave me very bad results in the past. I came up with these values manually for the official bed kit: #define DEFAULT_bedKp 40 #define DEFAULT_bedKi .55 #define DEFAULT_bedKd 10 Gets the end stop logic correct: #define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true Set values for your motion control here. You will need to look in your controller for your current settings. I use my phone and snap a picture of each screen: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 200, 488 } #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE { 250, 250, 35, 35 } #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2000, 2000, 600, 1000 } #define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 2000 #define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 1000 #define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3500 I run these values because of my direct drive X and Y axis. If you still have the short belts, flip these values: #define INVERT_X_DIR false #define INVERT_Y_DIR true This corrects the Z axis direction: #define INVERT_Z_DIR true Enable this to allow saving of some of the values listed above from the control, without a reflash: #define EEPROM_SETTINGS In my configuration_adv, I made these changes: #define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT { 135,135,135,135,135 } This gives you a menu item in "TUNE" that lets you adjust Z height on the fly. Super useful for dialing in the first layer height. You can even compensate for added blue tape with about 10 clicks: #define BABYSTEPPING #define BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR 2 This is a new feature that attempts to keep extruder pressure (rate) more accurately synced with head speed. This is a big issue on bowder printers, where the print head can change speed much faster than extruder pressure. This causes under-extrusion in regions of acceleration and over-extrusion when decelerating. According to the devs, Slic3r generates compatible gcode, but newer Cura does not. I am working with the Marlin devs to improve / find the issues with Cura gcode, because I really prefer Cura. Feel free to test and contribute to the discussion: https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/8827 More info on LIN ADVANCE: http://marlinfw.org/docs/features/lin_advance.html Calibration method: http://marlinfw.org/tools/lin_advance/k-factor.html Code to enable: #define LIN_ADVANCE #define LIN_ADVANCE_K 0 (you can pre-populate a value here. '100' is something you can test the waters with, but you can change this via the controller menu and save later. Or change via gcode) This should get you going. First test each axis direction with "move axis". Then you can give an M119 command to check the status of the endstops. Very important that they are working correctly. Then you can command some increasing temps for the nozzle and bed, making sure you get stable readings there. Then print something and report back!
  20. Hey guys, I want to change my extruder of the ultimaker original plus to a better one? Do you have any ideas? Is it maybe possible to install the DDG Extruder kit Ultimaker 2+(http://shop.bondtech.se/ec/upgrade-kits/ultimaker/ddg-extruder_ultimaker2_en.html) on the UMO+? That would be perfect!! I know that you can change the marline software for the extruder and maybe it is possilbe. What do you think?
  21. Dear community, I finally finished assembling my ultimaker original. Unfortunately, when I tried to turn it on for the first time, the display only shows dark marks. In addition to this, I tried to do a system check through Cura, but the software says "no connection" - although the USB is plugged in. I already checked the connections from the Ulticontroller to the mainboard and made sure that EXP1 goes to EXP1 and EXP2 to EXP2. I attached two pictures of the display. Does anyone have a clue of what's wrong and how to fix it? I would really appreciate any hints, thank you!
  22. When I make a print with the heated bed set at 60°C, everything runs fine. When I change the temp of the Heated Bed within Cura 3.x to another value like 50°, then the Printer starts, switches off and does a reboot during printing the first line of the Brim of het Object I'm printing. Starting a Print with initial temp of Heated Bed to 60°C and then after the first layer to 40°C then this occurs the moment he goes from 40 to 39, a few layers later.( Cooldown) I've thought maybe it is a Power Supply issue but when setting the Heated Bed to 60°C again everything prints fine. Can Somebody explain this behavior? I've never tried before another temp on the Heated Bed then 60°C. I'm now running the latest Cura 3.1 without FW upgrade because I Have the UMO.
  23. Hi guys, I have been running a hot end of my own design for a while now, but using an external power supply for my hot end fan, and happened to pick a print fan which has lived at the supplied 19v. I rev'd up my design to be smaller, lighter, stiffer, and much shorter as well. Now seems like a good time to clean up and integrate the electronics. I am pretty sure that my base electronics are 1.5.7, and I have added the official heated bed kit. I believe this gives me access to constant on 19v and 24v sources. What I am unclear on, is whether I have a 5v extruder fan connection that can be controlled via firmware (on when the hot end is above a set point). For the hot end fan, I see 3 potential options: Use the 5v lead if I have it. Could I use this to step the voltage up to 12v? DC Step up Piggyback, in parallel, on the 12v leads that power the control board fan and hope not to overload it with an additional ~0.1 amps Grab the always on 19v or 24v leads, and run a step down converter: DC Step down Any thoughts on this? For dual print fans: I will be running 12v 30mm fans (same as above @ ~0.1 amp). I can either wire them in parallel and hope they don't burn up. But I think using the step-down converter above on the normal fan output would be a better solution. My biggest question on that, is if wiring that converter inline with the fan output would cause issues in the PWM fan signal. Any help is appreciated!
  24. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for better and better print quality, your eyes get drawn to smaller anomalies in the printed surface. Even with slow outer perimeter speeds and acceleration, I see ripples at sharp direction changes. I also see slight Z banding that I believe is from the bowden tube changing the print head height slightly. Supporting the print head with 8mm rods instead, will certainly increase stiffness. But also increase the inertial forces. My guess is that there is an optimal diameter... I just am not sure exactly where that lies. Has anyone put some serious thought into this? My calculations show that a 6mm rod weighs ~60g, while 8mm is ~105g. That is a total weight gain of ~90g. This weight gain is distributed evenly along the length of the shaft though, so not all of it contributes to inertial forces that deflect the shafts. Some is put fairly directly into the XY blocks themselves. I think it would be fair to say only ~75% of the increased inertial force works to bend the shafts. Misumi does have hollow 8mm linear motion shaft. The ID is 3mm, which doesn't reduce the weight all that much. Each shaft would drop from 105g to 90g. Not a bad reduction though. LM6UU = 8g and LM8UU = 13g. So another 10g of weight gain there, entirely on the head. So, we have added ~55g of weight to the head. (using hollow shaft) The next step would be to calculate and compare the increase in stiffness (reduced deflection), against the increase in acceleration forces, for a given realistic printer move...
  25. Edit : I have find cheap from china. No need anymore. Hello, I have broke my hot end isolator into my peek isolator, so I search to by that in france or Europe for faster delivery. Also I prefere second hand for a low price. PEEK_Isolator Hot_End_Isolator_Tube Thank you.

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