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  1. Hallo zusammen, ich habe mit meinem Ultimaker ein Teil gedruckt und möchte jetzt auf diesem in einer anderen Farbe einen Schriftzug drucken. Mein Problem ist ich habe in Cura meinen Schriftzug 4.6 mm in der Höhe eingefügt aber wenn ich den Druck starte fährt die Düse bis auf die Platte nach unten. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit den Druck in der höhe 4.6mm zu starten? Vielen Dank
  2. Ancient printer, maybe not something that is fixable anymore. But if there IS a fix, I think it is here. I started out with this UMO second hand, already highly modified. I made a change to add quiet drivers and, although mostly happy with them, I don't think the firmware load needed for them is playing nice with the non-standard Z screw and its stepper motor. I'd like to be able to change the steps. I use the excellent bUltimaker tool. While this allows me to specify the GT2 pulleys (and so takes care of the steps for x and y), I don't see an option to tweak Z. Is there a way to alter the Z steps as needed? I'm not afraid of programming as needed, of course depending on the platform. Thanks in advance for your thoughts. John
  3. Hello guys, I am trying to use the bUltimaker to create a firmware for my Ultimaker Original after I have installed many upgrades like UM2 head and Ultimaker heated bed but I am having difficulties to find the correct temperature sensor on bUltimaker to generate my firmware. So, what I have is: UMO with 1.5.7 Board Compete UM2 head, with fans, temperature sensor and heater cartridge Heated bed https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254116018350 Could someone guide me on right direction on which temperature sensor choose on BULtimaker. https://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ Thanks in advance.
  4. Hello, I have an Ultimaker Original. I've usually have used the bUltimaker builder for the firmware, but the site is having problems and since it's an older version of Marlin, I thought I would try compiling the firmware myself. I really appreciated the z-offset that was included in the bUltimaker firmware, so I tried finding something like it with the new one. Mesh Bed leveling was the best I could find, and I enabled it. However, I am having difficulty getting the nozzle to offset from the top limit switch like in the old firmware and the Z doesn't seem to be moving when I'm printing now through octoprint. The gcode on the sd card still has it squished, but it moves the z-height every layer like it should. I've looked around and I can't find too much on the subject or understand what I did wrong. I have it homing at the bottom and all endstops are always enabled. Bed size is 210 x 210 x 205 (z is probably more like 202.5), custom made HB, and Reprap Full display. Here is my starting g-code: G21 ;metric values G90 ;absolute positioning M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode M107 ;start with the fan off G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops G1 Z2.5 F9000 ;move the platform down 2.5mm M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Start heating bed to temp M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} ;Start extruder heating and wait to reach material temp before proceeding M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ;Ensures bed heats to temp before proceeding if it hasn't already G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E15 ;extrude 15 mm of feed stock G1 Z5 F9000 ;move the platform down 5mm G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length G1 F200 E10 ;extrude 10 mm of feed stock G1 Y50 F9000 ;Put printing message on LCD screen M117 Printing... Here is the configuration file for the firmware. Had to put it as a zip. Ultimaker Configuration files.zip
  5. ZGE Authors - ZGE Idea and design & development by Charly - @Gudo - Crazy Ideas and ZGE Logo by Sebas - @Neotko General FAQ Can I use other bearings? NO. There's much math and simulations and beta testing on all the parts, if you fell like changing something just to save a buck, then this isn't the extruder for you, sorry! Can I use a shorter square rod? NO. I did bang Gudo with this many times, he is just so patient and explained me over and over how and why it can't. Basically that's the correct size for a umo/um2. Can you use 400 instead of 390mm, yea you can. But 390mm is the perfect length so it doesn't pick an eye while moving or hits you, and also is the length that allows the slider part to have always full contact with the square rod. So, like I said before, file the tip, because metal can hurt. (It never ever happened to me and I do look at the printer like a mad men when printing to debug stuff). Could I move the holder to the other corner? Yes, print it mirroed (that's something I did ask at the beginning, but after using it on the Left side I would not change it, it just make's sense... Hard to explain.. Can I use a cheaper drivegear? NO (well you actually could if you redesign most of the stuff, but if you just want to extrude without quality you can do it by hand ) Can I just print it on ABS or PLA, or China cheap PLA? NO. ABS for example size changes a lot, it can't get as much flex torsion without deforming as platec/greentec. Ofc if you thing you can, just do it, but don't come here asking why it fails Also the material used must be as precise as possible, that something that only good brands give. You wan't to have as many things under- control as possible when printing printing this with a bowden since the tolerances are quite hard. Short answer, we recommend Greentec / Platec for hightemp and strength. - Could I avoid to print the Flexible material parts? Oh yes, I forgot, there are parts that actually need to be printed on flexible materials like ninjaflex, recreus and a semiflex material. WHY? Just because (will explain all this on the video/tutorial). Most of them you can actually print them after installing the system, but also, well you can print them one by one very slow until you get the zge working - Why the motor holder moves a bit when printing? Because the system compensates the extrusion forces to avoid as much motion transmission to the printhead. Also, better the motor holder than the printhead, right? - I have a dual printer, I wan't to use this!? That's actually doable, Gudo even made a design that could work on a UM3. But... More or that someday. Basically we don't want to just make stuff that could work, but stuff that actually put something interesting on the table. There are many factors beyond making the extruder work on a um3 than just making it. Gudo actually I think did cover all of them, but then there's the part of the firmware. The UM3 firmware need's quite a lot knowhow to actually change parameters like Extrusion retraction while changing tools, prime amount, retraction amount, esteps, etc etc etc. So change this parameters on a um3 the user would need to know much knowhow to do stuff on linux without bricking the machine (editing stuff is really easy in the end but is a giant leap for most users). So for now we choose not to, but is there, if UM or maybe a modder makes a easy way to access the Machine Json files and edit them, then we might release it. Just because, it doesn't make sense to release stuff just for releasing stuff. Also, there's a big problemo for flexibles on um3, and that's the gap of air on top of the cores while they rest on the printhead.. So, could it work? Sure, but would it work everytime? That's the question... So, short answer, not yet. More FAQ And important points about ZGE Why we made it Gudo and Neotko are moving forward this extruder because we are always pursuing quality, speed and precision. Bowden is a lightweight solution that creates quite a number of handicaps, like for example hysteresis (filament compression due pressure) making it impossible to actually control the extrusion. With ZGE Direct Drive this is now posible, for 1.75mm filaments and 2.85mm, without any compromise on Extrusion horse power. Why don’t we sell it atm Gudo and I (Neotko) have other interest than just selling upgrades. Is a nice idea, but we been crunching numbers and isn’t something we would love to be doing on the short time. I have a business and is starting to work and it demands my full time (except weekends where I try to keep improving every bit of the printer). Also isn’t that easy, to make a comercial version of the ZGE would requiere most probably a mold, and that’s freaking expensive, delivery, stock, gudo making sliders, me printing all the other parts, and that could be a nice dream but we don’t have a 100 printers farm to do it right, and sincerely is great to not need to defend something that you want to 'sell' it keeps the mind objective and fresh to new ideas. So we have choose the YDIY (You Do It Yourself) path. I will make videos of how to print and assemble the key parts that requiere extreme love and care to do them right. Gudo I think can provide for some individuals the key parts, but don’t overwhelm him, if you don’t get one, you need to DIY. The good It freaking works, it extrudes beautifully, it keeps working and working and delivering repetition and amazing precision even with flexibles. Bondtech dualdrive has a lot on that, it could be done with a lesser quality extruder gear, but it would give troubles, bondtech does work and work and work. It grinds a bit, NO, it pushes the filament over and over (and we get Zero commission from bondtech on this!). The system moves a 390mm square shaft of 4mm square. This was the first challenge. I have been testing a 3x3 thinner rod and it works beautifully, but it will only be of use for 1.75mm guys. 1.75mm requieres less heat to extrude, less pressure, but also it has a drawback, it need’s more rotation on the drive gear, this means more stuff moving. That’s why a 3x3mm is better, because it delivers less noise to the weak um head (more on that latter) 2.85mm requieres more heat to extrude, more pressure but also has the advantage of less rotation on the drivegear, this means less noise translated to the printhead, but more force. So for this the best is a 4x4 square shaft. The Bad The punny UM2 hotend. We are using a hotend designed specifically for bowden, and bowden has one advantage, remove pressure and movement on the printhead, that’s why any single force done on the printhead (even a wooble bowden shacking) can add noise to the prints. And for the ZGE this means that every rotation on the drivegear can, since the head has very easy to bend and flexible shafts, translate tinny bits on Z noise. Does this Z noise is perceptible? Well, is hard to see, but is there, most users that don’t have a perfect Z might not notice this, but since I’m a crazy guy I did noticed it. The first version was much more dependent of a perfect square shaft. Gudo made an amazing improvement to this problem developing a printable UJoint system that allows to remove the imperfections of a inexpensive rod (more on this later). And just yesterday, I got an idea (star medal for me on this since I’m really proud) we changed a part to be printed on flexible material removing almost 50% of the noise and making the prints look even better. So... Does it print better than a Bowden? It freaking does. Does it has a bit more of noise on Z? Yes it does, sorry, that’s how things are. UM2 head, even the 8mm shafts can ‘bend’ and they keep wobbling making them very susceptible to Pressure from the drive-gears to the head. Every retract/extrude is a sudden move, that translates this sudden moves to the printhead. But with this last update the problem is hard to see, and most of normal users won’t ever see it. The Ugly To print a ZGE you need aprox 5h for the most delicate parts (slider+driveshaft) and they will need some post-processing. Add one hour of assembly for this part, that must be done with love and not by brute force. Also you do need a hightemperature material, like greentec, platec. Just because this part get’s heat from the bed, so if you print at 60, the air will get there to 35C, and that + extrusion forces = bends. The Extruder head also should be greentec, platec. Is a very amazing material (we also get zero commission on this), but need’s hairspray on the bed and brims, and cleaning. I made a good article about how to add custom brims to the support, read it, read it again, and use it. You need all the parts to be printed perfect. More than 50mm/s can ruin the print and will add time to manual cleaning, that is less reliable than a 3dprinter. You will need to calibrate your printer to the 0.02-0.03 closeness to the measures we will show as base. Just like Gudo and I did, we used one of the parts, print it and with a digital caliper of at least 2 decimal points, I did print the object 3 times, with different Horizontal Expansion values of -0.02 -0.03 -0.05. For me the winner was the 0.02. So as you can guess, the difference from printing it right or wrong is very very small. You need to keep that in mind for the main part of the ZGE, since is the most delicate part. First time I print one I did it horrible, and after printing 20-23 I thing I have enough practice to make a perfect ZGE slider+shaft. The rest of the parts, need screws, nothing hard to find. There are two types of heads, one is more compact but need’s some special small 4mm mini shafts. The other, is more complex to assemble and is based on my Neotko-FatIRobertI extruder. Gudo also added a tension selector (very cool) to have 3 basic positions easy interchangeable. But is much complex to print. Also is taller... That... Well, shorter means less vibrations, taller more vibrations... Yea there are many many factors that we have take into account before posting this. We still need to talk Gudo and I of what basic version we release. Most probably the slider, they key part, won’t have a step file release, but the others might, or not. The important is that all the parts will be easy to print, except the slider (the slider, as I said over and over here must be printed with love and finished more or less by hand). The Main key parts you will need to get to DIY. First of all, the square rod of 390mm, there are shops on ebay that cut on demand, but try to be ware that the tip you need to soft it (file it) for safety! You don’t want to loose an eye because you didn’t hear us out right? For precision square shafts (they call them Key Steel or Parallel Key) the max length we where able to find is 350mm (on misumi) so that means that it would not work. It need’s to be a minimum of 390mm. Gudo might be able to provide this to some users, but again, ask once, if he doesn’t answer he is busy doing something more interesting, don’t hammer it. And you will need to pay for it, you know, square shafts don’t grow on trees. A shorter smaller screw. You know the four screws that hold your hotend? Well, one must be shorter, like 4mm taller, you can ‘sew’ it yourself indeed. Again, not easy to find. Gudo is amazing and he made me a few with the first kits he made for me. I have a shop, I want to sell it! Contact Gudo for this, you two might get along and do some business. I personally would love to see this extruder on every printer out there. But mind one thing, no shortcuts, no china quality. If you thing you are decent, come talk with Gudo. I want it for my printer! Our dream is to have this on as many printers as possible, a Bowden-free world. If you are a 3d printer maker contact us and we will study making a version of our ZGE for your machine. But remember this is Open Source, so we will focus on Open Source machines like UM, BCN, and probably others. If we don’t support your printer, give us time, we are just two guys that love 3d printing and making our printers as precise as possible. Contact your printer company, if they give us access to your files we might do it! And ofc if you have a Solid Robust No Woobly printer, we are interested But ofc, Maybe Gudo just make's a better printer out of this UM.... But that's a history for other day List of things to do: - An assembly manual. Atm users that found IRobertI Feeder hard to assemble, should stay away from this, since this is probably 10x times harder and requieres much finesse to assemble and to print it. (sorry is just how it is) - Video of the ZGE SliderUjoint system. I need time to do it, but is on my todobedobedo list. Important before Downloading it - The zip has STEP and STL files - The STL files have TEXT that indicates the level of quality to print it, DO READ IT. Quality Levels are MIDQ - Medium Quality 50mm/s tops and 0.2mm layer is ok HIQ - High Quality 40-50mm/s is ok but no more than 0.1-0.15mm layer height HIQSLOW - Keycomponent 30-40mm/s max and 0.1-0.12mm layer height TEMP - Version printable in PLA or any material at hand that will need to be replaced with a FLEX later FLEX - Flexible material part. Print it after having the ZGE working (since is much easier). Recommeded Flexible material like NinjaFlex or Filaflex. Basically Very flexible. Did you read everything?, are you sure? Ok, you can download Zero Gravity Extruder at Youmagine by Gudo & Neotko Much still to write about how to print this, assemble and use it correctly. For now Check this OLD VIDEOS (REMEMBER THEY ARE OLD and they show OLD version assembly, but should give some hits to the pro users) Example of BAD SliderUjoint print Old post with a few print test videos and etc etc https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35608-zero-gravity-direct-drive-extruder
  6. Hi everyone i'm totally new to 3d printing i just got my hands on a UMO without a board control (v1.5.7) i have tried finding it for a while but no luck. i searched i lil bit about board control that can replace it so i found most of the ppl use the ramps 1.4 my question is will it work on UMO ? if so does it take the same power supply !? also if anyone have another ideas i'm all ears.
  7. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  8. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan control options More accurate / smooth stepper motion Network connectivity More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features. Touchscreen support would be nice Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place. Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful. Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options. The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro. If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!
  9. I have installed a new firmware on the UM0. The firmware assumes that my UMO has a heatable bed. He did not and when printing now the UMO waits until it is heated - So never 😁 Where do I get my old firmware e.g.15.02 again ? About a tool I created a hex file for Marlin , but there is also the heatable bed in it any link or attachement with verg old UMO firmware for me ?
  10. Hi Ich habe auf dem UM0 eine neue Firmware eingespielt . Die Firmware geht davon aus das mein UMO ein beheizbares bed hat Hat er nicht und beim Druck wartet er jetzt bis es aufgeheizt ist - Also niemals 😁 Wo bekomme ich meine alte Firmware 15.02 wieder her ? Über ein Tool habe ich mir ein hex file für Marlin mal zusammengebauen lassen , aber da ist auch das beheizbare bed drin
  11. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for better and better print quality, your eyes get drawn to smaller anomalies in the printed surface. Even with slow outer perimeter speeds and acceleration, I see ripples at sharp direction changes. I also see slight Z banding that I believe is from the bowden tube changing the print head height slightly. Supporting the print head with 8mm rods instead, will certainly increase stiffness. But also increase the inertial forces. My guess is that there is an optimal diameter... I just am not sure exactly where that lies. Has anyone put some serious thought into this? My calculations show that a 6mm rod weighs ~60g, while 8mm is ~105g. That is a total weight gain of ~90g. This weight gain is distributed evenly along the length of the shaft though, so not all of it contributes to inertial forces that deflect the shafts. Some is put fairly directly into the XY blocks themselves. I think it would be fair to say only ~75% of the increased inertial force works to bend the shafts. Misumi does have hollow 8mm linear motion shaft. The ID is 3mm, which doesn't reduce the weight all that much. Each shaft would drop from 105g to 90g. Not a bad reduction though. LM6UU = 8g and LM8UU = 13g. So another 10g of weight gain there, entirely on the head. So, we have added ~55g of weight to the head. (using hollow shaft) The next step would be to calculate and compare the increase in stiffness (reduced deflection), against the increase in acceleration forces, for a given realistic printer move...
  12. Hi Ich habe einen UM Original ausgegraben Der Vorbesitzer hat aber die falschen Federn (gelb) mitgeliefert . Die sind zu zu lang und zu hart Hat jemand ein Idee , welche passen könnten
  13. Hallo, mein UMO verstopft immer wieder oberhalb der Düse im Hotend. Ich habe schon mehrfach alles auseinander gebaut und darauf geachtet, das keine Spalte zwischen Düse und dem Röhrchen darüber sind. Der Schlauch ist auch neu und das Teflonteil auch. Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe Gruß Daniel
  14. Hi all, After many prints on my Ultimaker, the 19V power supply finally packed in. Looking around the house I found a couple of 20V Laptop chargers (135W / 200W) and they both have the same plug type. Is it safe to use a 20V power supply? (the watts should be fine since it should only pull what it needs) Also, does anyone have any idea why the display on the ulticontroller looks cloudy and a bit dull when using the original power supply (before it broke when new) but perfectly clear and bright when plugging in the USB instead? Cheers
  15. Bonjour, Pour mémo et pour ceux que ça pourrait intéresser. Voici la façon dont j'ais configuré un détecteur de filament sur mon Ultimaker Original. Je suis actuellement avec un Marlin Quelque chose comme ça : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285504/makes Je me suis appuyé sur ce tuto : L'option changement de filament doit être activée (M600), c'est mon cas, je regarde donc dans mon configuration.h : /** * Filament Runout Sensors * Mechanical or opto endstops are used to check for the presence of filament. * * RAMPS-based boards use SERVO3_PIN for the first runout sensor. * For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN, FIL_RUNOUT2_PIN, etc. */ #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR //VIVIS activation du detecteur de filament #if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR) #define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 followed by M500. #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each. #define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOW // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present. #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins. //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins. // Set one or more commands to execute on filament runout. // (After 'M412 H' Marlin will ask the host to handle the process.) #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600" // After a runout is detected, continue printing this length of filament // before executing the runout script. Useful for a sensor at the end of // a feed tube. Requires 4 bytes SRAM per sensor, plus 4 bytes overhead. //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25 #ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM // Enable this option to use an encoder disc that toggles the runout pin // as the filament moves. (Be sure to set FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM // large enough to avoid false positives.) //#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR #endif #endif "For other boards you may need to define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN" donc je regarde dans pins/ramps/pins_ultimaker.h (cf vidéo plus haut): // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 11 Alors on tente : #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR //VIVIS activation du detecteur de filament #if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR) #define FIL_RUNOUT_PIN 11 //VIVIS yolo on se tente de brancher le detecteur sur le pin 11 du EXT3 4 #define FIL_RUNOUT_ENABLED_DEFAULT true // Enable the sensor on startup. Override with M412 followed by M500. #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS 1 // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each. #define FIL_RUNOUT_STATE LOW // Pin state indicating that filament is NOT present. #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins. //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins. Je branche deux fils au niveau de l'EXT3 (j'en profite pour souder des connecteurs), un sur GND et l'autre sur le pin 11 CA FONCTIONNE !! Lorsque les fils ne se touchent pas ça imprime, si je les met en contacte ça lance le script M600 (changement de filament). Pour le détecteur préfabriqué acheté sur Aliexpress j'ajoute le +5V. J'ai pris un détecteur près fabriqué mais je trouve qu'il y a plus de friction, je vais peut être garder celui que j'ai fait moi même qu'on voit sur la première photo du post.. Modif comit sur mon github : https://github.com/Ecoologeek/Marlin-pour-Ultimaker-Original-Custom
  16. Hello All, I thought I was going to get to 3D printing tonight, and just like any printer that hasn't been used in a few years and was updated, it's now non-functional. When I set up the printer from storage, the power switch was already on, so it just powered on right away, but that should affect what I'm about to explain. I think it probably just jumped too far up on this update and now is corrupted. So, I downloaded the latest Cura as any sane person would do, went through the normal motions of installing, and then checked for firmware and then proceeded to update. The firmware said it installed, and then the screen started showing letters in every other place holder on the screen. I specifically remember Q changing to q, starting from the top and then proceeding like reading in the Western world. Cura has destroyed all functionality of the printer now, and it seems like no one has had this issue, or that UMO support articles are just getting scrubbed. I get that the printer is old, but the Makerbot Replicator 1 world has literally 1000X the articles for things like this, so am I just unlucky? I even tried that Marlin firmware builder, flashed it through Cura, etc. and that did not change anything with respect to the screen displaying correctly. The screen just displays as shown in the attached image. I don't think we've used this printer in 3 years, but it printed last time and now all I hear is my Dad's lesson of, "This is why you don't do updates." Why can I not solve my own problem by just being able to download the literal original version of the firmware? Ultimaker, c'mon...
  17. Hallo, bin neu hier im Forum. Habe heute einen problembehafteten UMO gekauft, der alles viel zu flach druckt. Mir ist schon beim manuellen Verfahren der Z-Achse aufgefallen, das er bei Z170 höchstens 60mm gefahren ist. Rechts sieht man ein Benchy aus einem korrekt eingestellten Drucker. Der Vorbesitzer hat wohl irgendwo dran eingestellt, er weiss aber nicht mehr wo. Würde mich freuen, wenn mir jemand helfen könnte. Liegt es vielleicht an den Z-Steps, die man im Display verstellen kann? Gruß Donker
  18. Ik heb "opdracht" gekregen om een Ultimaker Original (volgens mij) aan de praat te krijgen om vervolgens weer te gaan gebruiken op een basisschool. 3D printers zijn voor mij nieuw, dus ik dacht aansluiten en kijken wat ie doet. Hij gaat wel aan, het display licht op, maar ik zie geen menu of iets. Als ik op het knopje druk op de controller dan hoor ik een piepje en als ik aan de knop draai zie ik niets gebeuren. Op mijn laptop heb ik Cura geïnstalleerd (laatste versie) en die kan wel goed verbinden met de 3D printer. Ik heb de firmware succesvol kunnen updaten. Echter als ik de printer probeer te kalibreren, dan maakt ie rare geluiden en beweegt de printkop minimaal (bijna niet). Heeft iemand tips om mij verder op gang te helpen?
  19. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  20. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  21. Hi All, Although I am the first owner of my UMO, I am no way an expert. I have been making things, but I am not happy with the results. In hindsight printing always has been troublesome. Let's say mixed results. But more and more I am using the printer in projects and I have seen much better print quality than what I get. Often I have vertical outer walls not connected, or the top layer not showing a closed surface. So a simple print quality topic? No! Recently I printed 3 clamps and Cura told me they should weigh 59 grams. I doubted that and so put the clamps on the scales. It turned out to be only 29 grams. And I should tell you that I am printing at 110% material and 210°C. So the 29 grams would have been only 26 grams at 100%. So close to 50%. Oh, the feeder is wrong? Maybe the stepper is doing half steps? I took the Bowden cable fron the head , cut the filament flush and had it extrude 100mm. And it was exactly 100mm. The gear moves about 4.25 revolution. All good. However, when I re-mount the Bowden cable, preheat the thing, and mark the filament 100mm before the feeder and then extrude 100mm only 60mm went in. I have listened closely but I do not hear steps being lost. So it is slip then? Maybe a bit more force in the feeder? No! it does not make any difference. Knurled bolt blunt? No! Maybe dirt in the nozzle? Well it is obviously not new but I took it out, got the material out and could look through. Used dentist tools and had a good look inside the nozzle; it looks like a new one. When taking the nozzle out I saw that the nozzle was not really against the aluminium block, so no good thermal contact. I remounted it so that the nozzle now is firmly in and against the Alu block. After all this about 75mm go into the feeder when I ask for 100mm. Next I elevated the temperature because I saw with a thermal camera that the temperature of the nozzle is only 185°C. I ended up setting the temperature at 240°C. And that for PLA. It should come out brown, what ever colour you put in, isn't it? Is my thermocouple gone? But still at 240°C.... it extrudes only 82mm when I ask for 100m. I am at the end of ideas. Please help. Regards, Cube.
  22. I woke up this morning to my print being prematurely halted and my UMO ulticontroller stating "error: max temp". I turned off the printer then turned it back on to restart the print. Print started fine, but when I came back 20 mins later the same error message was there and my nozzle said it was well over 300 C! Why is my printer giving this error about max temp? How can I fix it?
  23. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  24. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  25. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare nozzles in various sizes and many other spare parts.Price EUR 349 / US$ 399 excl. shipping. EU buyers preferred.A great starter set so let me know if you are interested! Regards, Ralph Zoontjens - Product Designer - www.id-z.one
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