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  1. Hello All, I thought I was going to get to 3D printing tonight, and just like any printer that hasn't been used in a few years and was updated, it's now non-functional. When I set up the printer from storage, the power switch was already on, so it just powered on right away, but that should affect what I'm about to explain. I think it probably just jumped too far up on this update and now is corrupted. So, I downloaded the latest Cura as any sane person would do, went through the normal motions of installing, and then checked for firmware and then proceeded to update. The firmware said it installed, and then the screen started showing letters in every other place holder on the screen. I specifically remember Q changing to q, starting from the top and then proceeding like reading in the Western world. Cura has destroyed all functionality of the printer now, and it seems like no one has had this issue, or that UMO support articles are just getting scrubbed. I get that the printer is old, but the Makerbot Replicator 1 world has literally 1000X the articles for things like this, so am I just unlucky? I even tried that Marlin firmware builder, flashed it through Cura, etc. and that did not change anything with respect to the screen displaying correctly. The screen just displays as shown in the attached image. I don't think we've used this printer in 3 years, but it printed last time and now all I hear is my Dad's lesson of, "This is why you don't do updates." Why can I not solve my own problem by just being able to download the literal original version of the firmware? Ultimaker, c'mon...
  2. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  3. Ik heb "opdracht" gekregen om een Ultimaker Original (volgens mij) aan de praat te krijgen om vervolgens weer te gaan gebruiken op een basisschool. 3D printers zijn voor mij nieuw, dus ik dacht aansluiten en kijken wat ie doet. Hij gaat wel aan, het display licht op, maar ik zie geen menu of iets. Als ik op het knopje druk op de controller dan hoor ik een piepje en als ik aan de knop draai zie ik niets gebeuren. Op mijn laptop heb ik Cura geïnstalleerd (laatste versie) en die kan wel goed verbinden met de 3D printer. Ik heb de firmware succesvol kunnen updaten. Echter als ik de printer probeer te kalibreren, dan maakt ie rare geluiden en beweegt de printkop minimaal (bijna niet). Heeft iemand tips om mij verder op gang te helpen?
  4. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  5. Hi All, Although I am the first owner of my UMO, I am no way an expert. I have been making things, but I am not happy with the results. In hindsight printing always has been troublesome. Let's say mixed results. But more and more I am using the printer in projects and I have seen much better print quality than what I get. Often I have vertical outer walls not connected, or the top layer not showing a closed surface. So a simple print quality topic? No! Recently I printed 3 clamps and Cura told me they should weigh 59 grams. I doubted that and so put the clamps on the scales. It turned out to be only 29 grams. And I should tell you that I am printing at 110% material and 210°C. So the 29 grams would have been only 26 grams at 100%. So close to 50%. Oh, the feeder is wrong? Maybe the stepper is doing half steps? I took the Bowden cable fron the head , cut the filament flush and had it extrude 100mm. And it was exactly 100mm. The gear moves about 4.25 revolution. All good. However, when I re-mount the Bowden cable, preheat the thing, and mark the filament 100mm before the feeder and then extrude 100mm only 60mm went in. I have listened closely but I do not hear steps being lost. So it is slip then? Maybe a bit more force in the feeder? No! it does not make any difference. Knurled bolt blunt? No! Maybe dirt in the nozzle? Well it is obviously not new but I took it out, got the material out and could look through. Used dentist tools and had a good look inside the nozzle; it looks like a new one. When taking the nozzle out I saw that the nozzle was not really against the aluminium block, so no good thermal contact. I remounted it so that the nozzle now is firmly in and against the Alu block. After all this about 75mm go into the feeder when I ask for 100mm. Next I elevated the temperature because I saw with a thermal camera that the temperature of the nozzle is only 185°C. I ended up setting the temperature at 240°C. And that for PLA. It should come out brown, what ever colour you put in, isn't it? Is my thermocouple gone? But still at 240°C.... it extrudes only 82mm when I ask for 100m. I am at the end of ideas. Please help. Regards, Cube.
  6. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan control options More accurate / smooth stepper motion Network connectivity More processor overhead. 8-bit is pretty lean once you start adding features. Touchscreen support would be nice Some of these items I could get with incremental upgrades (stepper drivers, Octoprint / rPi, etc). But I think buy-once-cry-once on a new controller would put me in a better place. Now that Marlin 2.0 is stable and supports 32-bit controllers, that is an option. I already have it running 2.0.3 at the moment and am familiar with Marlin. That said, some of the "nice" features in Marlin just don't work well for me yet, like [linear advance 1.5]. For K values that make the K-factor test print look perfect on my bowden setup (K=1.8), normal prints don't work at all. The linear advance extruder motions are incredibly chaotic. Even during print segments that effectively have a constant print head speed, L.A. is freaking out, apparently because of the direction change between straight line segments. Not so useful. Since the 32-bit controller support is still pretty sparse, taking Marlin out as a requirement opens more options. The Duet 2 Wifi looks like a good option. People generally seem to like it. The configuration looks very easy, and it appears to tick all my boxes. My only concerns so far, are whether the motion control will be a step forward from Marlin, ideally providing some functional extruder advance to improve bowden flow control. Also, it's a bit unclear whether it supports the Reprapdiscount Full Graphic Smart Controller. I'd prefer to get everything up and running with that existing controller, and I don't want a web-only interface. Some posts show that they had very little interest in developing firmware support, even though the connections are present. But, some more recent posts seem to show the controller working on a Maestro. If anyone has some insights on this, I would definitely appreciate it!
  7. I woke up this morning to my print being prematurely halted and my UMO ulticontroller stating "error: max temp". I turned off the printer then turned it back on to restart the print. Print started fine, but when I came back 20 mins later the same error message was there and my nozzle said it was well over 300 C! Why is my printer giving this error about max temp? How can I fix it?
  8. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  9. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three inputs because the Bltouch will use one input and provide a Z homing signal so that means I need only two more endstop interrupts for X and Y. Software limits works fine so I don't need MAX_PIN inputs as defined in the pins.ULTIMAKER.h file defaults here: // Limit Switches // #define X_MIN_PIN 22 #define X_MAX_PIN 24 #define Y_MIN_PIN 26 #define Y_MAX_PIN 28 #define Z_MIN_PIN 30 #define Z_MAX_PIN 32 Even though it would be inconvenient to adapt the endstop switch connectors, they could perhaps be connected to pins 11, 12, 13 or maybe even pins 34 and 36, which are labeled "SERVOS" on the PCB silkscreen. I plan to connect my Bltouch control (servo) pin to pin 13 and it seems that pins 11, 12, and 13 are usually used for such things. Also from pins.ULTIMAKER.h: // // Servos // #define SERVO0_PIN 13 // untested Does anyone here have experience with this? Did using interrupts work well (better than the default CPU polling)? Once I get it up and running and tested, I'll fork the Marlin 1.1.8 source (or maybe I'll spin-up 1.1.9, which is the last 1.x.x Marlin, except for bug fixes) to my github account so others can give it a whirl. BTW, this Bltouch V.2 mount looks pretty good to me. There's not all that much info on the Internet about this UMO mod or endstop interrupts. Bltouch Mount Same as above but with Google Translate to English Thanks!
  10. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  11. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare nozzles in various sizes and many other spare parts.Price EUR 349 / US$ 399 excl. shipping. EU buyers preferred.A great starter set so let me know if you are interested! Regards, Ralph Zoontjens - Product Designer - www.id-z.one
  12. Hello everybody, My Ultimaker Original Has some modifications like DIY Hot Bed (with 100K thermistor), axes motors outside the machine and so on. I generally modify my firmware from the "firmware builder" provided by this website. I'm now working on a new concept for a better usage of my second nozzle and I need to activate the pins from 8 to 13 that are not used by my board so far (version 1.5.7.). I've wired them to make some experiments: I've connected a LEd to see if they can be activated, they blink twice when I turn my printer on. But I don't know how to use them, I guess I need to make some adjustement on the firmware. CAN SOMEONE HELP ME ON IT? (My final intention is to activate them when my printer passes from a nozzle to the other, I will add some line of Gcode in the cura's options in machine settings) Thank you.
  13. highlea

    Qashqai Bin

    Version 1.0.0


    This is a bin to fit in the door pockets of a MK1 Nissan Qashqai (2007-2013) The bin is primarily designed for the front door, to fit where a drink bottle is intended to go. It will also fit the back door. The Qashqai has nowhere to put sweet papers and other small pieces of litter, hence this bin. I printed this in black PLA on my UMO with a layer thickness of 0.25.
  14. Hi there, i am upgrading my ultimaker orginal from standart dual extrusion to a rotary printhead. I got inspired of the rotary printhead long time ago but i did never started to design my own one for the ultimaker till now. here are some videos which inspired me: My goals are: -having fun -no oozing -fast switching between heads -very light printhead to keep the accelaration high -printing without prime tower, ooze shield... to save print time -using magnets for rotary fixing -using the x-axis to switch between the heads -get a easy to print design in the end so anybody who want it can print it -integrate e3d v6 hotends -upgrade to e3d titan extruder (not on the printhead) -customise original firmware -generate printing profiles I already redisigned my first dual head (never printed only disigned) to version 2 Old design: New design: -new bearing rotary axes -more magnets (clamping of the hotends fan duct) This only the beta type to try out the mechnical characteristics of the rotary axis. I already printed 75% of it, pictures coming soon Feel free to ask questions, and of course if you have further ideas tell me. Greetings Zeno
  15. Hallo, habe heute meinen Ultimaker Original nach einigen Stunden zusammenbauen das erste mal angesteckt, und angeschalten. Leider hat nur die LED der Platine am Hotend geleuchtet, der UltiController hatte nur ein blaues Display mit zwei weißen Streifen in den Zeilen 1 und 3 angezeigt, und die Motoren haben "vibriert" und komische Geräusche gemacht. Ich habe dann die Anschlüsse des UltiControllers geprüft, der Stecker mit der Bezeichnung EXP1 ging auf EXP1 und EXP2 auf EXP2. Dann habe ich das Gerät noch einmal angeschalten, und bemerkt, dass die Schrittmotortreiber nach etwa 4-5 Sekunden extrem heiß werden. Ich habe dann auch noch einmal die ganze Verkabelung geprüft, alles war richtig angeschlossen. Ich hoffe, dass mir jemand weiterhelfen kann!
  16. Hello everyone, I'm very very new to the 3d printing world (a couple of months actually), so the machine-related problems are new to me as well. I'm working with an Ultimaker Original whose problem is that during the print, it suddently stops extruding material. I noticed that the feeder is not pushing the material inside the extruder but sometimes the melted plastic starts flowing only if I push manually, sometimes it doesn't. The material seems deformed inside the nozzle, with a "waterdrop"-like shape. I'm using PLA, I tried to print with 210° C and then I lowered it to 190° but the problem remains, and also the print looks covered in little and rounded scrap of plastic (the pic below shows this issue better than me sorry), but it might be the already printed material that the nozzle is carrying around. Is this a clogged nozzle problem? Or a feeder one? Or is it time for me to buy a flamethrower and baptize the machine with fire? I offer a reward of endless joy and gratitude, plus a bunch of heart emoji.
  17. Hi, my UM2E would intermittently throw an ER3 error in the middle of a print. I've read many of the related posts and followed their suggestions. I have checked (visually, connections, moving the wires, and measured the resistance (about 25 Ohms)) the heater cartridge and it seems to be fine. If I reset the system, it would start heating up again but not always. Sometimes when I tried to preheat the nozzle and measured at the heater 1 terminals, the voltage was zero. Another time while preheating, the system would get out of the preheat mode by itself. I have tried Cura 3.3.1, 3.4.1, and 3.5.1 but the problems seem to persist. Any ideas on what's wrong and what should I do to troubleshoot next? Could there be multiple issues? Thanks for the help.
  18. ?Hi I have just started 3d printing with Ultimaker 2, I am so happy printing so many things, so easy to use and even pleasant to watch with such an elegant machine?. I'm now about to finish my first filament spool, have looked at the spool prices and the happy feeling is over?. Only kidding Still happy but just worry on choosing the right filament. I already made a big sacrifice on buying the printer itself I now need to look for affordable prices but at the same time have good quality. ?Could I please ask the community for any recommendations on good quality affordable filaments. The internet has so many companies I don't want to fall victim for cheap stuff. I live in manchester so ideally would like to buy from as near as possible to save on post. Thanks very much for your help
  19. I made a custom heated bead for my Ultimaker Original, it has worked for about a year with out an issue. Unfortunately the bed Thermistor shorted with the bed power cable today, neither the Thermistor nor the arduino mega was damaged, though I replaced both anyway. Now the issue that I have, is that the bed temperature shows approximately 800°c and thus causes a max temperature error, this is the same temperature that is displayed when no Thermistor is connected as well as if I connect 100k ohm resistor (its a 100k thermistor, so should show 25°c). This leaves the ultimaker controller as the most likely error source. I don't have one lying around, and the next possible replacement is in china, which would take a month to get shipped (I also don't want to change to a different controller since the system is made for a 19v power supply, and no one carries them anymore). Does anyone know what possible components on the board could have fried? or could I just switch to the sensor 2 on the board, and how would I set that up in the firmware? Thanks
  20. Hi everybody! I'm currently modding my UMO with 2 nozzles using a similar concept used by the Ultimaker3 (retracting second extruder). But I have some issue to set it properly on Cura. I cannot set the gap between the nozzles (i just can set the Z offset between nozzle and the bed and it can be not different fron a nozzle to the other). As you can image i need to tell to cura "change the hight of the bed when use the second extruder" and also "Go to a specific X/Y position before change extruder" to trig the second extruder to pop up. How to do that? P.S. If it gonna work I will post the project. Thak you all!
  21. Recently, the readings of the thermistor on my UMO are limited. A completely cold printhead will show ~120°C, when heating up this value does not change until the printhead actually reaches ~120°C. Then the temperature readings seem to be accurate within a margin of error. This all wouldn't be a problem, if the printer wouldn't abort heating before the printhead reached said thereshold. Of course the first thought is about a defect component, so I replaced: The thermistor The thermocouple The Ultiboard The Arduino I also checked the cables, of course. On the new arduino I flashed a customized fork of the Marlin firmware available on GitHub, forked from the Marlin_UM_HeatedBedUpgrade branch. Here's the link to my repo: https://github.com/MarkusA380/Marlin What could be the problem?
  22. Hi all, This is my first time posting here so if there is anything I don't do correctly please let me know. Thanks! So I am working on adding a DIY heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. I am going the route of basically recreating the HBK on my own. By this I mean I got the aluminum build platform and UM2 style heatbed. The heatbed I got stated it had a 100k thermistor built in. My current design consists of the heatbed powered directly from a 24v power supply which is switched via a Solid State DC relay by the Ultimaker board. I have the relay hooked up to the "Heatbed" screw terminals on the ultimaker board. The thermistor wires are hooked into Temp3 screw terminals. I already soldered in the 4.7k resistor into the R4 position on the board. I tried updating the firmware via the Ultimaker firmware builder but was unsure what selection to choose for my thermistor (from the dropdown menu). I am running into issues with the board not recognizing the thermistor which could be a product of this. The LCD reads 100/0 for the bed and when I try to set a temp for it, it immediately clears it back to 0. I have the board currently detached from the rest of the printer (besides the arduino), and couldn't imagine this would cause any problems, but figured it was worth mentioning. So my question is, what selection should work for the 100k thermistor and 4.7k resistor in the ultimaker firmware builder? Or am I better off using something else to do so. I picked one of the 100k thermistor options from the dropdown, but if I did pick correctly where should I look next as the cause of these problems. Thank you all!!
  23. As the title says. Hopefully someone has prior knowledge or easy access to this info. I would like to explain my need to know. Some time ago I rigged my hot end up with a print cooling manifold that's supplied by compressed air. It's lighter and provides improved cooling capacity with an even 'spray'. It's connected to my air compressor at about 60psi and supplied by a hose added to the bowden bundle. The weakness of the setup is that the only means of control is by manually adjusting a small thumb screw needle valve. It can range from off to a lot of cooling I want to buy an industrial PWM (proportional) flow control valve and connect it thru the existing print fan circuit. Thus the need to start with an understanding of the target circuits capacities. I think I can find the right valve for $125 or less. Depending on the PWM signal, a small converter device may be needed for a boost. Anyone? Thanks in advance.. P.S. Being able to only select from a predefined set of thread tags seems very limiting. Can threads be searched by their tag definitions? Feasible or useful to have user defined tags?
  24. So i have been trying to do the esteps for my umo+ The initial e-step value is +836.0 I asked for 100mm filament in the printer and i got only 45mm ! I made the equation and i got 1857.77 as a new value for my esteps wich is too high i think. Now each time i ask the printer to extrude filament, it starts retracting after that.... Too much issues in one poeration :) can anyone help?
  25. Hi, I want to learn how to to do the e-steps for my umo+ but i cant figure out how to extrude filament from Marlin firmware. Is there a specific firmware version that i should use? Thanks
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