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  1. I have installed a new firmware on the UM0. The firmware assumes that my UMO has a heatable bed. He did not and when printing now the UMO waits until it is heated - So never 😁 Where do I get my old firmware e.g.15.02 again ? About a tool I created a hex file for Marlin , but there is also the heatable bed in it any link or attachement with verg old UMO firmware for me ?
  2. Hi Ich habe auf dem UM0 eine neue Firmware eingespielt . Die Firmware geht davon aus das mein UMO ein beheizbares bed hat Hat er nicht und beim Druck wartet er jetzt bis es aufgeheizt ist - Also niemals 😁 Wo bekomme ich meine alte Firmware 15.02 wieder her ? Über ein Tool habe ich mir ein hex file für Marlin mal zusammengebauen lassen , aber da ist auch das beheizbare bed drin
  3. Hello guys, I am trying to use the bUltimaker to create a firmware for my Ultimaker Original after I have installed many upgrades like UM2 head and Ultimaker heated bed but I am having difficulties to find the correct temperature sensor on bUltimaker to generate my firmware. So, what I have is: UMO with 1.5.7 Board Compete UM2 head, with fans, temperature sensor and heater cartridge Heated bed https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254116018350 Could someone guide me on right direction on which temperature sensor choose on BULtimaker. h
  4. I know that the very early UMOs came with 8mm carriage shafts and then were switched over to 6mm, going forward. Has anyone "gone backwards" on this? It is all a balance between lightweight (for inertial benefit) vs stiffness (for positioning repeatability). The 6mm carriage shafts are very easy to deflect, especially near gantry center. This includes the Z direction from varying force imparted by the bowden/extruder drive; and also in the XY directions from inertial forces when changing the velocity/direction of the print head. As you tune the machine for b
  5. Hi Ich habe einen UM Original ausgegraben Der Vorbesitzer hat aber die falschen Federn (gelb) mitgeliefert . Die sind zu zu lang und zu hart Hat jemand ein Idee , welche passen könnten
  6. Hallo, mein UMO verstopft immer wieder oberhalb der Düse im Hotend. Ich habe schon mehrfach alles auseinander gebaut und darauf geachtet, das keine Spalte zwischen Düse und dem Röhrchen darüber sind. Der Schlauch ist auch neu und das Teflonteil auch. Vielen Dank für Eure Hilfe Gruß Daniel
  7. Hi all, After many prints on my Ultimaker, the 19V power supply finally packed in. Looking around the house I found a couple of 20V Laptop chargers (135W / 200W) and they both have the same plug type. Is it safe to use a 20V power supply? (the watts should be fine since it should only pull what it needs) Also, does anyone have any idea why the display on the ulticontroller looks cloudy and a bit dull when using the original power supply (before it broke when new) but perfectly clear and bright when plugging in the USB instead? Cheers
  8. Bonjour, Pour mémo et pour ceux que ça pourrait intéresser. Voici la façon dont j'ais configuré un détecteur de filament sur mon Ultimaker Original. Je suis actuellement avec un Marlin 2.0.7.2. Quelque chose comme ça : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285504/makes Je me suis appuyé sur ce tuto : L'option changement de filament doit être activée (M600), c'est mon cas, je regarde donc dans mon configuration.h : /** * Filament Runout Sensors * Mechanical or opto endstops are used to check for the presence of filament. * * RA
  9. Hello All, I thought I was going to get to 3D printing tonight, and just like any printer that hasn't been used in a few years and was updated, it's now non-functional. When I set up the printer from storage, the power switch was already on, so it just powered on right away, but that should affect what I'm about to explain. I think it probably just jumped too far up on this update and now is corrupted. So, I downloaded the latest Cura as any sane person would do, went through the normal motions of installing, and then checked for firmware and then proceeded to update. T
  10. Hallo, bin neu hier im Forum. Habe heute einen problembehafteten UMO gekauft, der alles viel zu flach druckt. Mir ist schon beim manuellen Verfahren der Z-Achse aufgefallen, das er bei Z170 höchstens 60mm gefahren ist. Rechts sieht man ein Benchy aus einem korrekt eingestellten Drucker. Der Vorbesitzer hat wohl irgendwo dran eingestellt, er weiss aber nicht mehr wo. Würde mich freuen, wenn mir jemand helfen könnte. Liegt es vielleicht an den Z-Steps, die man im Display verstellen kann? Gruß Donker
  11. Ik heb "opdracht" gekregen om een Ultimaker Original (volgens mij) aan de praat te krijgen om vervolgens weer te gaan gebruiken op een basisschool. 3D printers zijn voor mij nieuw, dus ik dacht aansluiten en kijken wat ie doet. Hij gaat wel aan, het display licht op, maar ik zie geen menu of iets. Als ik op het knopje druk op de controller dan hoor ik een piepje en als ik aan de knop draai zie ik niets gebeuren. Op mijn laptop heb ik Cura geïnstalleerd (laatste versie) en die kan wel goed verbinden met de 3D printer. Ik heb de firmware succesvol kunnen updaten. Echter als ik de pri
  12. Hallo Ich brauche eure Hilfe ich habe einen Ultimaker vor einen Halben Jahr geschenkt bekommen. Und Möchte ihn auf ein Beheiztes Druckbett aufrüsten (bauen) da es das Kit nicht mehr zum Kaufen gibt,und meine frage ist wie habt ihr das Mit der Elektronik gelöst ?
  13. Hi, What is required (in terms of substitutions and/or modifications) in order to upgrade an UMO to an UMO+ (or even a UM2). Thanks in advance. HB
  14. Hi All, Although I am the first owner of my UMO, I am no way an expert. I have been making things, but I am not happy with the results. In hindsight printing always has been troublesome. Let's say mixed results. But more and more I am using the printer in projects and I have seen much better print quality than what I get. Often I have vertical outer walls not connected, or the top layer not showing a closed surface. So a simple print quality topic? No! Recently I printed 3 clamps and Cura told me they should weigh 59 grams. I doubted that and so put the clamps on the scales. It turne
  15. Hey guys, I am still rocking an original Ultimaker, heavily upgraded at this point. It is such a solid platform, mechanically, my only wants at this point could be served by a new controller / control board. Current build specs: Official heated bed Upgraded stepper motors, direct driven on X&Y, GT2 belts / pulleys Custom print head with E3D V6 Custom extruder drive with geared stepper Reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller Here is what I want: Quieter operation More integrated fan contr
  16. I woke up this morning to my print being prematurely halted and my UMO ulticontroller stating "error: max temp". I turned off the printer then turned it back on to restart the print. Print started fine, but when I came back 20 mins later the same error message was there and my nozzle said it was well over 300 C! Why is my printer giving this error about max temp? How can I fix it?
  17. hello to the community i am trying to print for the first tiime with my ultimaker original and the feeder doesnt push the PLA but it is actuallly rotate from the motor. I can see the wheels turnng but the PLA seems that reaches the bed really slowly. in 3% the surface is not well made and in some spots is empty and some other some of the material (pla) on the bed. any idea ? How I can check the extruction or the feeder?
  18. I'm running Marlin 1.1.8 on my UMO with its original 1.5.7 electronics and an Ulticontroller. I've been building a new version of Marlin 1.1.8 for my Bltouch sensor, which I'm about to hook-up and start testing. The Marlin source code says: // Enable this feature if all enabled endstop pins are interrupt-capable. // This will remove the need to poll the interrupt pins, saving many CPU cycles. //#define ENDSTOP_INTERRUPTS_FEATURE and the Antclabs Bltouch instructions say this feature is optional. Does the 1.5.7 board have at least three interrupt-capable inputs? I only need three in
  19. Hi, I recently bought a old UMO (which had the heatbed upgrade already installed) on ebay but during transport the HeaterBoard got damaged and fried after the first use. Does anyone living in europe still has one of these boards left and could sell it to me? Cheers, Matti
  20. Hi,I am a product designer and have upgraded my 3D printer range, with too little space in my studio for four printers I am selling my Ultimaker Original. With a record of 1,500-2,000 print hours it is still in good operating condition and has a working dual extruder. About a year ago there was a problem with one of the motors skipping but it was easily repaired by adjusting the supply voltage on the motor driver's potmeter. Supplied with the 3D printer are the power and USB cable, an SD-card+controller, dual extruder kit installed, one roll of PLA filament, 10 spare noz
  21. Hello everybody, My Ultimaker Original Has some modifications like DIY Hot Bed (with 100K thermistor), axes motors outside the machine and so on. I generally modify my firmware from the "firmware builder" provided by this website. I'm now working on a new concept for a better usage of my second nozzle and I need to activate the pins from 8 to 13 that are not used by my board so far (version 1.5.7.). I've wired them to make some experiments: I've connected a LEd to see if they can be activated, they blink twice when I turn my printer on. But I don't know how to use them, I guess I need
  22. Version 1.0.0

    30 downloads

    This is a bin to fit in the door pockets of a MK1 Nissan Qashqai (2007-2013) The bin is primarily designed for the front door, to fit where a drink bottle is intended to go. It will also fit the back door. The Qashqai has nowhere to put sweet papers and other small pieces of litter, hence this bin. I printed this in black PLA on my UMO with a layer thickness of 0.25.
  23. Hi there, i am upgrading my ultimaker orginal from standart dual extrusion to a rotary printhead. I got inspired of the rotary printhead long time ago but i did never started to design my own one for the ultimaker till now. here are some videos which inspired me: My goals are: -having fun -no oozing -fast switching between heads -very light printhead to keep the accelaration high -printing without prime tower, ooze shield... to save print time -using magnets for rotary fixing -using the x-axis to switch between the heads -get a easy to print design in the end so
  24. Hallo, habe heute meinen Ultimaker Original nach einigen Stunden zusammenbauen das erste mal angesteckt, und angeschalten. Leider hat nur die LED der Platine am Hotend geleuchtet, der UltiController hatte nur ein blaues Display mit zwei weißen Streifen in den Zeilen 1 und 3 angezeigt, und die Motoren haben "vibriert" und komische Geräusche gemacht. Ich habe dann die Anschlüsse des UltiControllers geprüft, der Stecker mit der Bezeichnung EXP1 ging auf EXP1 und EXP2 auf EXP2. Dann habe ich das Gerät noch einmal angeschalten, und bemerkt, dass die Schrittmotortreiber nach etwa 4-5 Sek
  25. Hello everyone, I'm very very new to the 3d printing world (a couple of months actually), so the machine-related problems are new to me as well. I'm working with an Ultimaker Original whose problem is that during the print, it suddently stops extruding material. I noticed that the feeder is not pushing the material inside the extruder but sometimes the melted plastic starts flowing only if I push manually, sometimes it doesn't. The material seems deformed inside the nozzle, with a "waterdrop"-like shape. I'm using PLA, I tried to print with 210° C and then I lowered it to 190° but th
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