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3D printer

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  1. Hi Folks, I’m close to buying an Ultimaker S3 with a CC print core and looking for recommendations for a carbon fiber filament. I’ve really not been able to find much online about printing CF with the S3. Has anyone had success printing CF with the S3? If so, any filament recommendations? I’m upgrading from an Ender 3, and I can tell you I only had nightmares with CF on that machine. The whole thing has been a great learning experience, but I’m ready to actually have repeatable parts from a reliable machine. thanks!
  2. I have a brand new S3 and I can only print dual extrusion if I "Enable prime tower" and "wipe inactive nozzle on prime tower." Is this normal? If I don't use the tower, the ooze from the inactive head drags across the previous layer. The "ooze shield" option does not help. This causes: several effects: 1) The inactive nozzle oozes until it touches the print, at which point the ooze string tears off the head and sticks onto the print. This repeats until it switches nozzles. 2) The inactive nozzle oozes but does not drop the string onto the print yet. When the printer switches to the new nozzle, the string is put down when it starts printing. 3) Worst-case: The ooze sticks to the print and tears the material off the print bed, ruining the print entirely. This happens on small prints with thin columns. The wipe tower resolves these problems. I want to just know how normal this is. I am going to take some pictures of prints with and without the tower, showing the difference. The S3 replaced my ancient Replicator Dual which oozed so much that I declared dual-extrusion printing useless. I am disappointed to find that 10-years later, the oozing situation does not seem to have been resolved, and I don't see anyone really pointing that out. When I look up dual-color prints or prints with PVA I get nothing but glowing reviews. Is my experience unusual? If it is not unusual, then why is "Wipe Tower" not on by default when using dual-extrusion? I just don't see how anyone can successfully print without it. The Stratasys printers I've seen have a dedicated wipe area, and they wipe every layer (maybe even more often than that), which leads me to believe this is normal, just unstated. I'm experiencing this both with Ultimaker PLA and Ultimaker PVA, both fresh out of the box.
  3. Hallo, wir drucken mit unserem Ultimaker S3 bisher nur Tough PLA, teilweise auch in Kombination mit PVA, von Ultimaker. Da es immer mal wieder vorkommt, dass die Festigkeit der Bauteile nicht ausreicht, das heißt die Teile brechen oder verformen sich, sind wir auf der Suche nach einem Material mit höherer Festigkeit. So wie es aussieht, ist es mit Hilfe eines Printcore CC möglich auch Materialien zu drucken, die Kohlefasern enthalten. Hat jemand von euch Erfahrungen mit solchen Materialien und kann mir ein Material empfehlen? Es muss auch keine Kohlefasern enthalten, eine merkbar erhöhte Festigkeit ist aber wichtig. Zudem sollte ein passendes Druckprofil für den Drucker vorhanden sein und das Material ohne große Anpassungen dieses Profils gut druckbar sein.
  4. Hallo, leider zeigt der S3 in meiner Schule ein deutlich unsaubereres Druckbild als unser Prusa Mini. Zunächst hatte ich mögliche Feuchtigkeit im PVA vermutet. Aber auch mit dem anderen AA Druckkopf und zwei PLAs zeigt er auf beiden Druckköpfen Unsauberkeiten. Hier Benchy mit 0,1mm Schichtdicke: - First Layer scheint ok zu sein. - Schwarz (Tough PLA, Original Ultimaker): deutlich spürbare Rillen, teilweise überstehende Fäden, Z-Naht, insgesamt nicht schön wie ich das von so einem teuren Gerät erwartet hätte (im Vergleich zum besseren Druck mit dem Prusa Mini) - Pink (PLA, Original Ultimaker) geht leider gar nicht: Flächen noch ok, aber an jeder Kante Überreste, Überhänge, selbst kleinste wie die Bullaugen vorne, mit Fäden und Klumpen Einstellungen: Voreinstellung wie Cura, Visual fine 0,1mm, 20% Infill, Tough PLA schwarz: 210° Druckkopf, 60° Druckbett, 45mm/s Pink PLA 200° Druckkopf, 60° Druckbett, 70mm/s (Ist dies normal, dass so unterschiedlich schnell gedruckt wird?) Eigene Verbesserungsversuche: Reinigung Druckköpfe xy-Kalibrierung Druckbett mit UHU-Stick (sonst Drucke nur mit Gewalt entfernbar), nun gute Haftung und trotzdem kalt gut lösbar Tests mit anderem Druckkopf BB und PVA, dort noch mehr Unsauberkeiten in den Stützen Würde gerne wissen, welche Qualität ihr erreicht und welche Schritte ich dafür unternehmen kann. Viele Grüße Holger
  5. There were many posts about active leveling or the cool-down stage, an essential feature of the printer to have a safe and easy experience. But for more advanced users or users with special needs for their workflow, there was often the wish to have more flexibility with some configurations. In several postings, you can find hints on how to disable the active leveling or shorten the cool-down stage at the end of a print job. All these workarounds need some Linux skills and how to work with (my beloved) vi editor. Not an easy task for someone who never logged in to a Linux machine. That's the point where UltiTuner kicks in. It is a small helper tool to make it easy for everyone to tweak the printer configuration. But first of all, some side notes and a big disclaimer: I don't work for Ultimaker. I wrote this tool for my personal use, but then I thought, why not make it public that everyone can profit from it. The software was created and tested with the utmost care. But if something goes wrong, neither Ultimaker nor I am responsible if the printer no longer works as usual or breaks. **USE THIS TOOL AT YOUR OWN RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY** So what can you do with that tool? Enable/Disable the active leveling Change the safeToTouch temperature, which is used for the cool-down stage. A much higher value shortens the stage to whatever you want. Clear the print bed message or awaiting cleanup after aborting Restart or reboot the printer Permanently enable the SSH daemon regardless of the developer mode You can use this tool with the S3 and the S5. The older UM3 is currently not supported. Some things don't make much sense with the UM3, because you can disable the active leveling there from the menu. If you are interested, you can find the latest release on GitHub https://github.com/SmithyAT/UltiTuner with more information and how to use it. What is planned? Clear the printer state after aborting a print job in an early stage (pre print phase) so that you can send another job without the need to go to the printer and confirm the message on display. -> Done I am also open for other ideas 🙂 Thanks to @gr5 for helping with the beta testing.
  6. Hi, can someone help me please, my printer was also doing fine, until I sent a new file via cura cloud to be printed, I saw that my printer just turned off . And there was a ticking sound, no lights nada. I tried to power cycle it to no avail, just the tiking sound. Please help me. Thanks
  7. Hallo, der Feeder meines Ultimaker 3 hat ein nicht verbundenes Kabel, weiß jemand wofür das ist? Ist es möglich hier einen Filament Sensor anzuschließen? Kann ich einen Ultimaker S3 Feeder auf einen Ultimaker 3 montieren? Viele Grüße Raphael
  8. I just installed for the first time a brand new CC 0.6 red i had bought a few months ago. The printer reports it as CC with no size suffix. There is no option for a print core CC within Cura only CC 06 and CC04. I chose CC06 but the printer complains about a mismatched configuration. Forcing an override causes the printer to complain that the head as timeout before reaching temperature. This is in fact not true as the error is issued while the temperature of the nozzle is already 260C which is the target value. I suspect that the head is 1) faulty or 2) no longer supported by the firmware (7.0.1). Has anyone else experience this issue? Any suggestions as to what to try? Thanks Alejandro
  9. Hello together, I just went into troubles when trying on printing ASA instead of tough PLA on my kind of new S3. Auto Leveling failed so I tried manual leveling without any success. Diagnostics lead me to ER45 (https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011576000) but nothing meantioned in this article was able/useful to solve my issue. I changed printcores, materials, bla bla bla - without any effect. So, I am now asking you, the community. Do you have any idea about whats going on? The fact alone, that I bought a 4000€ machine and was not able to find a manufacturers support email address leaves me speechless right now. Thanks Michael
  10. Hi, I'm printing a modified cylinder on a quite new S3 using though PLA and PVA support (see picture). After about 1 cm a bump appears on the cylinder (x-y drift?), but after 2 cm the print is back on track. Looking back at previous prints I can also see the same anomaly. Any advice? Thanks! Åsmund
  11. I am new to the ultimaker family as I’ve been using a MakerBot In the past but I wanted to add a ultimaker to my fleet but so far after 5 failed prints im wondering if I made a mistake. I printed 2 infinity cubes and when I take them off the build platform and move them to get them lose they break which never happened to my MakerBot. I printed 2 more items and one just broke during the print the ultimaker couldn’t do it and the last one the quality is just horrible. Could I be doing something wrong. let me know as for paying the price I did I was expecting way more from this machine and it’s only been 24 hours. thanks in advance
  12. Hi all, Just received my S3, a big upgrade from my old Original! However, I cannot adjust the frame light of my S3. Found the control in the settings, but the lights don’t change and stay on full brightness. Also the “glow when print is complete” does not work, as well as the “only on while printing”. It just stays on. Firmware: 7.0.1 (latest), also tried downgrading to latest stable release, 6.5.2, that did’t make a difference. Is this a known issue (couldn’t find it on the forum), or a defect? Thanks!
  13. I have a brand new S3 and it makes a snap pop noise in the Y axis, the timing appears to match one full rotation of the pulley gear It is hard to tell which side it is coming from. Here is a link to the video: https://www.dropbox.com/s/da5lr60ts2l3uy3/Ultimaker.m4v?dl=0
  14. Hi Everyone I wonder if anyone here could help me? I have started making a hood for my S3 to better control build volume temperature for more accurate and stronger ABS prints. My plan is currently to use a small MCU and fan to control the chamber temperature but it will need manual setting and turning on and off with the start and stop of prints. I intend to use the 24V supply from the UMB port to power it but would like to be able to use the communication through the UMB port like the "Air Manager" for the S5 to give control/setting through Cura. Has anyone attempted this or could someone assist with pinouts and data protocol? Is it UART, SPI, I2C or something else? Are there any other projects that anyone is aware of that could help me as I seem to have come to a dead end with online searches. Thanks in advance for any help! Rick
  15. After bed leveling while the nozzle is still near the front of the bed, and despite "Enable Prime Blob" being turned off in Cura, there is a short extruder purge sequence that will: -most of the time drag some oozing material into the print area and -sometimes the extruded material that the printer tries to smear off near the front of the bed will remain stuck to the nozzle and get dragged into the print area. Is there any reason for that purge when a skirt or brim is used? How to completely disable it? I see gcode command G280 is related to priming but based on Cura settings my print files have G280 S1 which I understand should not do anything. Guessing it's a firmware issue?
  16. My place of work has 3 Ultimaker S3s, often running simultaneously on different projects. However, routinely at least 1 of the machines will consistently fail to calibrate, most often "nozzle offset probe failed". I've run every possible diagnostic, cleaned the plate, bed, and nozzles, to no avail. This happens just about every day, to the point where I feel that our rate of failure is outside of the norm for such expensive machines. My question is: is it possible that the machines are interfering in some way with each other? I have read that the printers have inbuilt measures to account for capitative sensor interference, but at this point I can't think of anything else that may be causing these problems. Thanks for any and all replies.
  17. Hallo, mein Ultimaker S3 hat derzeit ein Problem mit dem LiftSwitch, dieser wird nach vollendetem Druck nicht mehr betätigt. Wenn er dann den nächsten Druck starten soll heißt es immer difference between Printcores... . Er läuft erst wieder, wenn ich den Lift Switch Manuell betätige und den Printcore 2 ausfahre. Hab letztens mal ein Software Update gemacht, könnte das vielleicht damit zusammenhängen? Bei meinem Ultimaker S5 ist dieses Problem nicht vorhanden. Wie könnte man das Problem beheben? Vielen Dank VG Raphael
  18. Hallo, ein Cura-Update habe ich dazu benutzt um meine benutzerdefinierten Materialprofile etwas anzupassen (im Markennamen hatte ich einen Tippfehler) - mit dem Erfolg, dass ich im UM S3 jetzt alle Materialprofile doppelt habe. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit alle benutzerdefinierten Materialprofile wieder zu entfernen? Mir würde nur einfallen Drucker auf Werkseinstellungen zurückzusetzen! Ingo
  19. I have a brand new S3. After the printer boots up and is 'ready to print' (idle) I notice quite an annoying high-pitched whine from the front (axial) fan. It's not particularly loud, but is annoying in a quiet room if working near to the printer. When the printer is idle the fan is disabled so the fan blades are not moving - the fan is stalled. The noise I can hear is coming from the fan motor. I asked my supplier to send a replacement fan, and I have fitted this but it has made no difference. I measured the voltage across the fan in this idle state and it is around 2.3V. I would have expected it to be lower. I think that this is the problem - as the idle voltage is not zero the fan is trying to start but the voltage is too low so it is unable to do so, and it is generating the noise. The fan works OK when printing by the way. Interestingly, if I rotate the fan blade a few degrees with a screwdriver the noise stops, but then returns when the blade springs back to its resting position. Anyone else noticed this? Maybe a firmware update to set the idle voltage lower could fix it? I believe Prusa had a similar issue with a fan driver that was fixed in firmware.
  20. Hello, I have an issue I've noticed with my printer (Ultimaker S3, FW version 7.0.0), that at the end of some prints (I haven't paid attention enough to know if it's every print or just prints that have a small final layer, such as a pyramid or a sphere) the nozzle will park at the final print location for a small handful of seconds before moving off the print and end the session. I found a similar post about a similar phenomenon (see link below). My problem is nearly identical to what was mentioned in there, only without the additional extrusion. I just end up with a funny melted splotch at that last location due to the hot nozzle sitting there. Is there a setting I can tweak that I'm unaware of in Cura or a bug someone else has mentioned that I couldn't find, or a bug no one's paid enough attention to yet? This has been occurring since Cura 4.8, (so 4.9, 4.10 and now 4.11.0), and all the Ultimaker S3 firmware versions (don't remember the version number I started with early 2021) up until the current version, 7.0.0. Thanks for your help!
  21. Hello all, Currently I am having problems on one of the S3 printers. The active bed leveling is always failing. It's the second time the capacitive sensor is replaced and the problem keeps reappearing. The last time was solved with a new one but this time after installing a new one the problem persist. Can you give me more clues where to debug this issue?
  22. Morning all, Attached link here is an short video of my S3 after first print of the morning, there seems to be a squeaking sound permeating from the XY stepper motors. Could this be short belt related on the steppers? I am about to just re-calibrate the XY gantry, please advise. I can provide more photos and video if needed. https://linksharing.samsungcloud.com/l0KOWgQJsgei Thank you all very much for the help!
  23. Hi all, We've released new firmware to the latest firmware release channel. Its a small update which mainly contains bug fixes and allows for better software integration with the cloud, no functionality changes included in this one. Check out the release notes here, and if you upgrade via USB get the file from here. Enjoy!
  24. Da ich nichts Passendes gefunden habe, möchte ich jetzt selber bauen. Bau einer Abdeckung mit geregeltem Abluftfilter für einen UM (UMS3) aus zugeschnittene 3 mm Acryl-Platten: Baubeschreibung und Bericht vom der Herstellung. Erste Vorüberlegung: - Konstruktion der Verbindungselemente (Eckverbinder, Seitenverbinder, Schanier, Bowdenabdeckung) mit Freecad - Ausdruck der Teile (PETG) - Anpassung - Bau von Hilfswerkzeugen (z.B. Kanten der Platten sollen eine 45 ° Fase bekommen) - Konstruktion der Filtereinheit (Filter vom Staubsauger mit Vorfilter, HEPA-Filter, Kohlefilter) - Großer Lufterdurchmesser (Geräuschreduzierung) - Testlauf über 1000 h in Druckerumgebung (Gewichtsmessung vor und nach dem Testlauf, um den Feinstaubgehalt der Druckerumgebung zu bestimmen) Bei einem mehrstündigem Druck mit PLA/PETG nahm der Feinstaubgehalt der Raumluft (Raum 18 m3) nicht signifikant zu. - Konstruktion der Regeleinheit (Messsensor Temperatur und Luftfeuchte) - Konstruktion und Bau eines Prototypen aus preiwerten Kunstoffplatten, um die endgültigen Maße und die Position der Verbindungselemente zu bestimmen - Testläufe zur Bestimmung der Bauraumtemperatur unter verschiedenen Bedingungen - Anpassung der Regeleinheit (Bedienung und Anzeigeb über ein Touch-Display) - Bestellung der zugeschnittenen 3 mm Acryl-Platten - Zusammenbau - Wenn möglich eine Verbindung der Regeleinheit über die API-Schnittstelle des UM Über Tipps und Ratschläge freue ich mich.
  25. Hello, I am new to all of this so I am probably wrong in thinking this but I have been trying to print a few items for the halloween season for my students but I keep getting stuck with the outer walls warping and stringing for some of the items. I am just using standard Ultimaker PLA+ filament. I am wondering, would anyone be able to help me with what settings I should be looking at in order to prevent this from happening? Thank you for any help anyone can offer. Base.stl Topper_Skull.stl
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