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3D printer

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  1. There were many posts about active leveling or the cool-down stage, an essential feature of the printer to have a safe and easy experience. But for more advanced users or users with special needs for their workflow, there was often the wish to have more flexibility with some configurations. In several postings, you can find hints on how to disable the active leveling or shorten the cool-down stage at the end of a print job. All these workarounds need some Linux skills and how to work with (my beloved) vi editor. Not an easy task for someone who never logged in to a Linux machine. That's the point where UltiTuner kicks in. It is a small helper tool to make it easy for everyone to tweak the printer configuration. But first of all, some side notes and a big disclaimer: I don't work for Ultimaker. I wrote this tool for my personal use, but then I thought, why not make it public that everyone can profit from it. The software was created and tested with the utmost care. But if something goes wrong, neither Ultimaker nor I am responsible if the printer no longer works as usual or breaks. **USE THIS TOOL AT YOUR OWN RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY** So what can you do with that tool? Enable/Disable the active leveling Change the safeToTouch temperature, which is used for the cool-down stage. A much higher value shortens the stage to whatever you want. Clear the print bed message or awaiting cleanup after aborting Restart or reboot the printer Permanently enable the SSH daemon regardless of the developer mode You can use this tool with the S3 and the S5. The older UM3 is currently not supported. Some things don't make much sense with the UM3, because you can disable the active leveling there from the menu. If you are interested, you can find the latest release on GitHub https://github.com/SmithyAT/UltiTuner with more information and how to use it. What is planned? Clear the printer state after aborting a print job in an early stage (pre print phase) so that you can send another job without the need to go to the printer and confirm the message on display. -> Done I am also open for other ideas 🙂 Thanks to @gr5 for helping with the beta testing.
  2. I have a problem with my ultimaker s3, extrusion does not work on the 2nd printer core, I have tried loading and unloading both the printing core and the PLA material but it i still have a problem of it not printing, can anyone suggest something
  3. Hello, Please help After finishing printing the build plate goes up and then down again knocking over the top of the part. Any idea why this is happening? I am using an Ultimaker3 printer and the latest version of CURA. The firmware has been reset but it is still it. See Video I have posted on a Ultimaker support Facebook group: See what happens at the end of the print. The build plate goes up and then down. This was only a small test file and been shorter it is not knocking the top of the part. When printing taller files it seams to be more of a problem https://www.facebook.com/groups/2207556406016768/posts/5365308780241499/?comment_id=5366822856756758&reply_comment_id=5372935906145453&notif_id=1674547822493510&notif_t=group_comment_mention Please I need help if you can think of what causing it. Kind regards Fulvio
  4. Hello! I work at an architecture office, and we recently invested in an Ultimaker S3. When making 1:200 models, we experience a lot of stringing, especially between collumns and in doorways. I have started to experience with retraction and retraction speed, and the results are getting better, but far from perfect. Are there some good standard settings for retraction, retraction speed, and heat(maybe something else?) when making small detailed models? I am currently using PLA for models and PVA for support. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hallo, Ich habe seit neuestem ein Problem mit meinem Ultimaker S3, wenn ich PLA drucke, egal ob von BASF als auch von Ultimaker. Das Problem ist, dass die Top Layer sehbar kleiner sind als die üblichen Wände. Das Problem tritt auf, sobald der S3 anfängt mit den top Schichten. Ich denke es hängt mit dem Unterschied der vollgefüllten oberen Schichten und der nur zu 20% gefüllten inneren Schichten zusammen. Aber warum tritt das Problem erst seid Neuestem auf? Ich konnte das Problem soweit verringern, dass nicht mehr alle top Schichten kleiner sind, sondern nur die erste der oberen Schichten, wodurch sich ein Strich im Druck bildet. ich habe schon sehr viel probiert und konnte das Problem für sehr kleine Teile verhindern. Allerdings tritt das Problem bei größeren Teil wieder auf. Ich frage mich halt, wie ich das Lösen kann, weil besonderen Geometrien, wo Füllschichten und top Schichten öfters aufeinander treffen, bildet sich der Strich deutlich öfters. Hardware ist gewartet und voll funktionsfähig. Software Cura 5: Ich denke das Problem sind die Cura Einstellungen im Verhältnis zu Temperatur, Geschwindigkeit, Kühlung und Schichtzeit. Strich verschwindet im Temptower ab 185 grad. Habe aber das Gefühl, dass das zu kalt ist. Temperatur: 200grad Düse: 0,4 linienbreite: 0,4 Geschwindigkeit: 30mm/s Kühlung: 100% aber ich kann ja nicht für jede Schicht immer alles anpassen. Ich hoffe Ihr könnt mir helfen. Ich bedanke mich voraus. Bin leider sehr verzweifelt.
  6. I have a brand new UM S3, and I'm printing PLA with PVA supports I've had quite a bit of luck printing with the Normal and Fine profile with PVA supports, but it hasn't been reliable with the Visual Extra Fine profile. The project file is attached. One time, the bottom layer of the triangles didn't print correctly... one or two of the "bars" of the triangle just weren't there. Another time, the bottom worked, but later on, an upper layer got gummed up, and the support stopped printing correctly. This is relatively new PVA filament that has been stored consistently in PrintDry vacuum-sealed boxes (that my local UltiMaker dealer sent me home with when I bought the S3): https://www.printdry.com/product/vacuum-sealed-filament-container/ I also leave the silica gel pack that came with the filament in the vacuum box. And I seal/pump and vacuum the box when it's empty, to keep the gel from absorbing from the room while the filament is being used. It's also winter here, and quite dry in the house. Below 25% humidity. But I haven't been leaving the PVA out between prints. Still, it has been on the spool holder *during* prints. So, last night, I put it in a Sovol 3D drying box, which heats to 50c and has a little fan. I left it in there for more than 12 hours. And now I'm trying the print again, leaving the PVA in the drying box, and holding it at 50c during the print. There's a little hole in the lid of the drying box for the filament to pass through. That leaves only 1 foot of filament exposed to the air, between the drying box and the bottom of the filament feeder on the printer. And it's still not working great. Bottom layer missed a few struts, but I just let it go to see what would happen. It seems to have recovered somewhat, but now some of the upper layers are missing support areas too. The model itself seems to be sufficiently supported so far, even with the incomplete supports. But it's definitely not what I want to see. I don't like the feeling of "taking my chances" with derelict supports. It's now 2 hours through a 4-hour print.... we'll see what happens. I've had much more reliable results using the AquaSys 120 dissolvable filament. However, Cura doesn't have finer profiles by default for that filament. Not sure of the reason for that, but I can't even get down to 0.1mm (0.15mm is the finest it will go in Cura). UMS3_supportTest_v4_PVA_ExtraFine.3mf
  7. This print is in progress now, with three different "stripes" of glass bed treatment. Cylinders have a radius of 4 mm, and are 20 and 40 mm tall (before being angled). Cylinders are angled at 15, 30, 45, and 60 degrees. I will post the results here when the print is done.
  8. constantly getting "Difference Between detected height of both print cores exceeds realistic" error. The building plate and print core were cleaned. filament in the tube as shown in Figure1 & 2 become that when waiting for the printing to start. Figure 3 was did by the insert of the filament area. the build plate was adjusted to the lowest as the tip of the print core touches the build plate when waiting for printing. ultimaker S3.pdf
  9. I have a brand new S3. After the printer boots up and is 'ready to print' (idle) I notice quite an annoying high-pitched whine from the front (axial) fan. It's not particularly loud, but is annoying in a quiet room if working near to the printer. When the printer is idle the fan is disabled so the fan blades are not moving - the fan is stalled. The noise I can hear is coming from the fan motor. I asked my supplier to send a replacement fan, and I have fitted this but it has made no difference. I measured the voltage across the fan in this idle state and it is around 2.3V. I would have expected it to be lower. I think that this is the problem - as the idle voltage is not zero the fan is trying to start but the voltage is too low so it is unable to do so, and it is generating the noise. The fan works OK when printing by the way. Interestingly, if I rotate the fan blade a few degrees with a screwdriver the noise stops, but then returns when the blade springs back to its resting position. Anyone else noticed this? Maybe a firmware update to set the idle voltage lower could fix it? I believe Prusa had a similar issue with a fan driver that was fixed in firmware.
  10. Hallo allen, Ben nieuw op dit forum en heb al gelijk een uitdagend probleem met mijn Ultimaker S3 die ik net een paar dagen geleden heb gekocht in België. Al door het menu aan het zoeken kwam ik een firmware update functie tegen welke het bedlevel systeem zou verbeteren. Dus ik heb deze update naar versie 7.1.3 uitgevoerd via WIFI, het downloaden van het bestand ging vlotjes waarna direct automatisch de update is aangevangen 🙂 Echter bijna aan het eind, nog 1 minuut te gaan, bleef hij hierop hangen. Uiteindelijk na zo'n 15 minuten wachten heb ik toch maar de hoofschakelaar omgezet. Weer ingeschakeld, en jullie raden het al, er gebeurt niets meer met mijn Ultimaker en het scherm blijft donker :-( Het is natuurlijk een gebruikte printer welke er wel uitstekend of zelfs nieuw uit ziet maar kan dus niet op garantie terugvallen bij een winkel o.i.d. Hopelijk kan iemand mij helpen, hoor graag van jullie, Vriendelijke groet, Arie, Tiel
  11. Was using Cura 5 ok and updated to 5.2. Since then I have noted that my prints have fallen off a cliff! Not sure what settings would cause this issue. I had printed a couple of these boxes ok but this latest one I just hit it and it split in two. I could see the "fault" line in the print and it felt "creaky". A good hit and it split cleanly. Its like it hasn't joined properly at a layer. Also I have noted that the walls appear to be individual. they are not joined, either by extrusion or by infill. This has happened on quite a few prints. Just seems to print each one (wall) individually and not squeeze enough to force the lines together. I use a Prusa at home and wouldn't be buying an Ultimaker or using Cura myself. Stuck with it at work 😞 so any ideas would be appreciated.
  12. Hallo zusammen, seit ein paar Wochen habe ich ein Problem beim Slicen. Wenn ich größere Modelle z.B. Flexi Factory Phoenix Slice bleibt er einfach stehen und macht nicht weiter. CPU ist dann immer auf 97% und bleibt auch so. Wähle ich in Cura einen anderen Drucker funktioniert es oder wenn ich die Skalierung auf 30% stelle auch. Habe schon Windows 11 neue Installier Hardware getauscht. Ein Ryzen 7 5800X3D, Radeon RX 6900 XT und 32GB Arbeitsspeicher. Er dürfte eigentlich nicht ins schwitzen kommen. Firewall habe ich auch schon abgeschaltet. Bin echt Ratlos wenn ihr noch eine Idee hättet. Viele Grüe Christian
  13. Good afternoon, I am attempting to use an Ultimaker S5 R2 motherboard in a Ultimaker S3, and I am experiencing an issue. My problem is that after flashing the S3 firmware, printer still configures itself as an S5. I investigated a bit, and I believe the problem is that the S3 firmware file hosted on the site is not actually the S3 firmware. I checked files for the S5 and the S3, and it appears that they are identical, and I believe this is source of the problem. I did an MD5 check, and they both give a result of d96f18de0945f32facdff7a07afd4306. I used this firmware recovery process to flash the S3 firmware onto the S5 board. https://support.makerbot.com/s/article/1877434822572 Does anyone have the actual S3 recovery image? Alternatively, maybe I'm entirely wrong and there is some other mechanism that's used to tell the Linux board that it is in an S5 vs an S3. If that's the case, please let me know. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  14. As part of the rebuilding of this printer I noticed the wires to the capacitive sensor were frayed. The white wire in the photo was down to one strand. Replacing the wire looks to be relatively straightforward, but given the nature of this sensor, I wanted to cross check if there is a specific gauge and type of wire needed for this link. Thanks!
  15. I have some questions about the XY calibration routine on the S3 and S5. Like our Raise3D E2, it lays down a line pattern, with what I assume is increasing offsets of the right extruder in both the X & Y direction. What confuses me is the example given in the template that you print out. It shows that the "correct" value is +15...but isn't -6 the closest "correct" value? Support told me that both these numbers would work...but if these represent actual physical offsets between nozzles, how can there be 2 solutions? Also - what do these numbers actually represent? On my E2, each number represents 0.1mm. Measuring this template and doing some math...it seems like each number represents 0.15mm which seems like an odd number.
  16. Hi, Is there a link to people who are using ultimakers and food waste (citrus rinds, chitin from shrimp/mushrooms, nanocellulose) to print products or as feedstock filament or extruded material for prototyping? Thank You
  17. Hi all, Just received my S3, a big upgrade from my old Original! However, I cannot adjust the frame light of my S3. Found the control in the settings, but the lights don’t change and stay on full brightness. Also the “glow when print is complete” does not work, as well as the “only on while printing”. It just stays on. Firmware: 7.0.1 (latest), also tried downgrading to latest stable release, 6.5.2, that did’t make a difference. Is this a known issue (couldn’t find it on the forum), or a defect? Thanks!
  18. Hi all, I have really annoying problem with my UM S3 almost every time i try to start print (45/50 times) during auto leveling procedure printer going out with: "Nozzle offset probe failed. Please check the nozzles and bed and try again." and cores most times even don't touch build plate, some times it gives also error: "Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values. " I was looking on forum for some answers and tried a lot of proposed solutions: 1. cleaning nozzles and bed. 2. calibration of lift-switch 3. checked captive sensor wires (both ok and giving signals properly) sensor noise is 12.7 from printer test test 4. checked different print cores configuration (got 2x AA0.4 BB0.4, AA0.25) only difference i spotted it is it sometimes go ok with core 1 sometimes with core 2 or both cores failed to touch build-plate 5. printer firmware is up to date and maintenance is performed regular 6. was checking different power cables, powering from UPS, connecting to really good grounded power outlet, in location where is no electronic devices at all (at least 3m from closest) is there anything i should check? or just replace sensor should help ?
  19. I'm not sure if there's a solution to this, but if anyone knows, that would be great. I have a part that has overhangs all the way around. they are 45 degree overhangs, so they don't require support under them, but the important thing is that the initial contact patch is smaller than the external boundaries of the part. Due to the material, a brim is absolutely necessary. Of course, when I add the brim in Cura, I get the grey boundary in the print area to account for the brim. The problem is, the brim is only added to the first layer of the part, which is smaller than the shadow. but the shadow is what Cura uses to determine if your print is out of bounds. so if I scoot the print right up to the edge and slice, the brim still isn't anywhere near to the actual edge of the build plate, due to the fact that it originates further into the part than the edge of the shadow. If it could check for printability post-slicing, it would be clear that I can use more build volume - but it won't even slice if it thinks something will be out of bounds. Hopefully this makes sense. I'm currently trying to mass manufacture fixturing (and get 3D printing widely accepted in our manufacturing facility), so being able to pack the build volume is important. I've heard recommendations to model the brim yourself, but I would prefer not to - again, since I am trying to fit 3D printing into our engineering workflow, I want the models (and therefore the drawings) to match the final product. Besides, any kind of workaround will not help with wider adoption of 3D printing.
  20. After visiting this page (https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012113719) and following all instructions I am still not able to sync my material profiles via network to my printer, US3 connected via network cable and PC connected via network cable, same network, PC has McCafee internet security with a controlled firewall and VPN. I was able to add all of the open ports for communication in McCafee but there doesnt seem to be a whitelist in existance anywhere to add the required pages. I am able to print via cloud if I am correct, though clicking on the connect button when trying to connect to the printer via network does nothing, no response and the button doesnt even change color when i click. Also syncing material profiles attempts to load but continues to load indefinitely. I noticed somewhere in my Mcafee software a log of numerous IP address blocks right at the same time I was trying to do this, although they are a different IP than my printer, I do not know how to allow all access to my printer to stop mcafee from blocking communications between the two. I've even added Ultimaker Cura and Cura slicing engine to the exused apps from blocking risky connections, kinda stumped now don't know what to do
  21. Not sure if I just wasn't looking good enough for an Ultimaker S3 profile, but it looks like there is none for PrusaSlicer and/or SuperSlicer. Am I right?
  22. Hello, please help if you can. My S3 print head moves suddenly along X-axis or diagonally and drilling the edges even one minute after I turn it on. First time it happed during long print and after started to happed more often. First time It completely destroyed two AA cores installed. If I check stop switches I see reaction on the screen 4-8 seconds after I press it. Checked the mainboard and found that the mainboard partially covered in sticky transparent oil, most likely coming from thermal pad. The replacement costs around $1k but I'm not 100% sure that it's the mainboard issue. Please let me know if you have any ideas.
  23. I own 1 Ultimaker S3 printer with two print cores and 1 Creality Ender 3 Pro with 1 extruder and have only those two printers saved in cura. When I open these config folders I see numerous other config files and I'm not sure why. In the past I have had to remove my Ender 3 Pro printer and add it back to cura under a custom 3d printer named E3Pro22. I'm just wondering if all the complications I'm having with my profiles may have something to do with all this extra information lingering in cura's config folders. I have reported the bug at git hub and am wondering if these two things may be linked to my profiles disappearing, being "hidden" so I cant see them or creating duplicates when I try to import a "hidden" profile and the profile is imported with the #2 at the end of the name(duplicate)
  24. I've been printing with PLA and PVA, and one day the PVA stopped feeding correctly. I tried a bunch of things, like hot/cold pulls and drying the filament, but nothing worked. I replaced the BB print core and it started printing correctly, but the print would periodically say "out of PVA filament", requiring me to click Continue. After clicking Continue, it would usually print PVA correctly, but after a few times (over the course of an hour) it stopped. So, I tried unloading the PVA and re-loading it, which has helped before. When the printer tried unloading the PVA, I noticed the motor would suddenly stop with a horrible sound. Here is a video of this happening: Can someone tell me what's going on here with the motor? How do I fix this? What could have caused it? Thank you for any help you can provide.
  25. My S3 has suddenly started shifting each successive print layer on the X-axis by approx 8mm. It does this on files that we've printed many times before and are stored on the USB stick. We haven't changed material, and I've done the standard maintenance checks but no change. Does anyone have any ideas please?
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