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  1. Able to print brim but not the actual part. attaching images please have a look.
  2. Hi, I have just replaced my S5 print core, as PLA became stuck in my old one, and the same has happened on first use with a brand new print core. With the brand new AA0.4 Print core, I successfully loaded white ColorFabb PLA which extruded ok, and had printed XY calibration OK. Set it to do a weekend long print on Friday and left it while it the first support layer of PVA was printing from the other BB core. Today it looks like the PLA was stuck even before it started printing and I cannot remove it. Looking at the printer closely in
  3. Thoughts? New pkg of Utimaker PVA. I have used 2 spools in the last 30 days with no issues like this. Same or similar models and settings. Bruce
  4. How has PVA been working for UM users? We have Ultimaker PVA and it's been good when users handle it properly. We've found the key is to keep it dry and to warm it up just before using it. Otherwise, it's extremely brittle and will wreak havoc with the bowden drive. More interested in hearing how others have dissolved this material. We've used room-temperature water as well as warm water. Not too warm as to warp PLA parts, however. Still seems to take at least a day to fully dissolve from most parts.
  5. I started printing with Gizmodorks PVA filament and it says to NEVER print their filament above 200C because it can cause permanent damage and it causes stringing. When printing I noticed that there is an limit that they have put on how much you can offset the temperature of a nozzle (+-25C). Could you make add a setting for advanced mode where you can edit this settings at your own risk?? I am not pleased that I paid orders of magnitude more for a "professional" printer, but have less control than my previous hobby Ultimaker. -Alonso
  6. Hello, Is it common and possible to need to replace the brass nozzle on the S5 print cores? I don't see where you can buy them specifically for the S5 print core and wondering if this is needed after extended use. If so does anyone know the part numbers I can only find ones marked for S2 online. Thanks
  7. I am having a ton of failed prints. The print won't stick and starts peeling, eventually just coming off and becoming a big blob. My other printers are all heated bed with PEI. With most materials you are just printing after removing any oils or debris. Things like PETG and PC you are using a glue stick so it doesn't become a permanent part of the PEI sheet. Now all I have is a glass plate with this S5. It has been a huge adjustment. I am a noob so I am not understanding why the raw glass is better than PEI. I finally got one ABS print to succeed but I did t
  8. I had my S5 + Air Manager delivered yesterday. It was not handled with care. The Ultimaker team that designed the packaging needs to come to the USA. I assume in Europe the delivery folks deliver the package like a new born baby. Not so here in the USA. See "Ace Ventura Pet Detective" package delivery scene for reference. Anyways... The Y axis motor (the motor to the left when viewed from the front) is making a metallic clicking sound at the same place in every revolution, forwards and backwards. If this metallic click was produced by play in the bearings it
  9. On Preview menu clicked on camera icon screen turns little whitish can't see anything ......also job finished printing on display of S5 but Cura indicates only 59% completed Print can out very good for draft settings..........my Fist Print on S5 and I am impressed Certainly easy set .........Thanks Ulitmaker
  10. When the build plate is lowered after the printing is finished, it's ususally impossible to see the final result through the in-built camera. I put a mirror on the left hand wall. Voilà!
  11. Hi everyone! Just bought a filament from the Smartfil brand called "NylonStrong" and I was wondering how bad can the filament affect a standard AA 0.4 nozzle. This filament is intended to print between 250 / 260ºC and the printing bed should be at 90 / 100ºC. The brand even advises: What are your thoughts? Should I definitely not print using a standard AA 0.4 nozzle?
  12. Hi everyone, Today I got my AA 0.4 extruder of my UMS5 completely clogged, tried cleaning it with clean filament (hot pulls and cold pulls) but I can't get anything out.. It even exploded a little bit of filament through the top of the extruder away in on of the pulls, when I was trying to push the filament down. I already disassembled the nozzle form the extruder, and now I wonder if is it possible to only purchase a nozzle instead of a complete extruder.. If yes, where? Is there other better options, like switching to an Olsson Ruby nozzle?
  13. These are some weird critters I have been making. One of the changes I made in my design is to not make such spindly things because I ran out of PVA materials. I had two spools of White Breakaway. I also tried to print without supports as well as experimented with PLA supports as well and eventually wound up with a mix of PLA and white breakaway supports. But first I designed a couple of things that did not require supports. This just some odd thing I made while trying to work in a basically 'primitive' style. I printed this on my UM3E with the wobbly head. So, layers are bit more
  14. I have been conducting experiments with different TPU filaments and here is what I find. All but one are supposedly TPU95A: UM: works great! Matterhackers: Won't load properly initially and quits loading during printing Polymaker: same as Matterhackers NinjaTek Cheetah: works great! NinjaTek NinjaFlex (TPU 85A): same as Matterhackers You can 100% predict whether or not the filament will work based on the initial load. The filaments that fail will stop the initial load 2-3 inches away from the print head because of friction in the Bowden tube. The UM and Chee
  15. Simple question. I just upgraded to an S5 from a hobbyist system (Creality Cr-10S Pro V2). I love the S5 but one thing I did like about the CR-10S Pro was that their glass build plate had a textured and a smooth side. There are times when I want the bottom to be slightly textured, which occurred naturally with the pebbled glass bed I had before on the CR-10S. I can't seem to find a borosilicate glass bed for the S5 that is textured on one side. If one doesn't exist, I might try to have one custom cut to size. I can take the glass off and measure it, of course, but I assumed th
  16. The issue is the material is not extruding properly on the build plate. I tried all the possible way i know to solve the issue but I couldn't solve it . smaller prints are printing good but bigger prints are giving issues. Please look at the images and help me to solve the issue.
  17. Hi all, We've release firmware 6.2 for the S-line printers. It's got some neat performance improvements, and as a user you can now choose which firmware release channel you want, latest, which is greatest, or stable, for updates 3-4 times a year. Check out the full release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012055979 Download it in via your favorite method, either on the printer directly or get the .swu update file here. Thanks!
  18. Hello! As stated in the title, my company's UMS5 extruder 2 is printing the 1st layer much too close to the build plate even after active bed leveling. Extruder 1 prints fine, but once it switches to extruder 2, the build plate comes so close that little to no material is allowed to extrude, which in turn strips the filament so that the flow sensor has to stop the print on the 2nd layer. I am currently using a 3rd party build plate: Uncoated Spring steel (Printed Solid) on top of a magnet base (Printed Solid) adhered on top of the original Ultimaker Glass build plate.
  19. Really at the end of my rope here. This POS continually fails when trying to autolevel. It fails at either the last or next-to-last detection (out of 3 total probes) for the 2nd extruder. I have done the following: Leveled/re-leveled many times Swapped nozzles as well as installed brand new nozzles Followed advice to check the connector at the back of the head (it was fine with firm connection and no wires pulled) Besides dropping it off a tall building, what advice does anyone have to solve this problem? We've had this problem since buying the machine
  20. Since nobody asked, I thought I would share a few things I have picked up. As I try new things I will probably tack it onto the end of this. My hope is that some of you find this instructive and I will point you to a variety of sources that I pulled information from. For the most part, I prime my prints with a black matte and then sometimes I mist white onto the print to help illuminate shape. I also am not a representative of any paints that I talk about. Just things I have played with. First, why I think things like the Polyalchemy style of 'silky looking' prints, and why I also
  21. Hi all, We've released new firmware to the latest firmware release channel. Its a small update which mainly contains bug fixes and allows for better software integration with the cloud, no functionality changes included in this one. Check out the release notes here, and if you upgrade via USB get the file from here. Enjoy!
  22. Currently, I am seeking for an aluminum filament for Ultimaker S5. I understand BASF offers metal filament but only in stainless 316L. https://ultimaker.com/materials/basf-ultrafuse-316l Does anyone sell aluminum filament for Ultimaker?
  23. Hallo, wir haben einen Ultimaker S3 und haben diesen mit unserem Netzwerk verbunden, damit wir die Druckaufträge über unseren PC starten und überwachen können. Man kann sich online über den PC ja auch die bereits erfolgten Druckaufträge anschauen. Nur leider werden unter dem Reiter "Druckaufträge" nur die letzten drei Aufträge angezeigt. Deshalb können auch nur die letzten drei Aufträge neu gestartet werden. Unter Analyse kann man alle Aufträge sehen. Von hier können die Aufträge allerdings nicht neu gestartet werden. Kann die Anzahl der letzten Druckaufträge die man er
  24. We have been using the U5 for a while now. I recently got around to printing out a 20mm calibration cube to check the accuracy. I found that it was off slightly my cube turned out to be: 20.34mm x 20.25mm x 19.93mm. I simply wanted a way to tweak the steps/mm instead of using the fancy offset calibration grid (which is highly subjective - if leaving the ladder grid on the glass bed, there is parallax viewing error). What I did was measure the actual cube with calipers and wanted to change the steps/mm value to correct. I found that the firmware can be unpacked easily with
  25. Bonjour à tous, je rencontre un problème de circularité sur la pièce ci dessous. le plus grand diamètre fait un peu plus de 200mm. le défaut est moindre sur les plus petits diamètres. c'est une impression en polycarbonate avec buse de 0.8. A l'intérieur, il y a un taraudage M37. La pièce est ensuite vissée sur la broche d'un tour, le soucis est que la pièce ne tourne pas rond... j'ai fait tourner le plus grand diamètre dans un V et le défaut est flagrant. d'où peut venir le problème et comment y remédier sachant que sur des pièces rectangulaires je n
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