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  1. Hi @ all, I've got a really wired filament jam. The PLA filament somehow bulged at the top of the print core. See attached photo. Let me describe what I have done so far: - Saw, that the Ultimaker S5 didn't complete the print. "Material seems to be empty." It wasn't. - checked for twisted material as this sometimes happens. It wasn't. - tried to resume print but filament didn't move into feeder. - aborted print - unload filament didn't work. I thought it might got stuck or ground down in feeder. - turned off machine, removed bowden tube and opened feeder. - it was ground down but still couldn't remove filament from core. Cleaned and assembled feeder - snipped filament - tried "hot pull" core cleaning method - filament wouldn't move into core and i couldn't remove it either - noticed that filament diameter is bigger than the opening of the core - tried to remove core but the intentional left filament tail prevents removal. I left a tail to grab hold with pliers. Do you have any idea how to move forward?
  2. Hallo alle zusammen, Ich hab gestern einen Druck gestartet und heute morgen gesehen, das meine Bauteile ab einer Höhe von ca. 5mm einen Versatz von fast 10mm nach links aufweisen. Ich hab so etwas noch nie gesehen und hab gar keine Ahnung was das sein könnte. Zur Veranschaulichung hab ich mal noch ein Foto mitgeschickt. Ich drucke mit dem Ultimaker Tough PLA und verwende die standardmäßigen Einstellungen für dieses Material. Als Slicer verwende ich Cura 4.11.0 und die S5 Firmenware 6.5.2. An der Firmenware-Version oder der Cura-Version hab ich länger nichts geändert und es hat bisher immer gut funktioniert. Habt ihr eine Idee was es sein kann und was ich tun soll? Viele Grüße
  3. Ultimaker S5, Tough PLA Black Greetings, fellow 3D aficionados like myself and pros! I have recently purchased AA 0.25mm print core by Ultimaker. I am trying to print as clean a gear as possible. I tired with 0.4mm core - using a profile by CHEP on YouTube. It came out very nice and clean. However, I was keen to see what kind of results I would be able to get with a smaller print core, since the gear I am trying to best is indeed quite small (17mm in diameter). I was surprised to see the following previews in Cura: As one can see, bigger values for Layer Height produce more prominent "steps" (?) between layers. The smaller thew value for Layer height setting the smaller the steps. With Layer height value 0.06 and a rather think Line width seems to smooth out the steps. I find this occurrence very interesting. Would anyone please be so kind and share your thoughts and possible solutions for smoothing out the corners. Please find attached currently in use profile for UM S5. With Kind regards, V.A. Fine#2.curaprofile
  4. I just started using AquaSys 120 support material, and while it is printing well, I'm having major issues with bed leveling when I print with it. I'm using the BB0.8 print core and the AquaSys is oozing whenever the nozzle is hot, even if the material is fully retracted from the core (like right after a print). While the printhead is heating up at the front of the machine, the AquaSys forms a little ball on the nozzle which hardens by the time the machine goes to do its first probe. That is causing the core height comparison test to fail and the probing is aborted. It is being kept in the material station and was dried before going in, so it's not a moisture issue. I tried wiping the nozzle at the right moment as well as making sure everything was clean before starting and I'm just getting error after error. If I do the printhead cleaning procedure on the BB core, the subsequent probing works fine, just like it always does, and all other filaments are working fine, so it is something about this particular material and/or profile that is causing the issue. Right now, it's looking like I'm going to need to do an atomic pull after every print to keep the probing from failing on the next print, and that's just a giant pain in the tush. Anyone else run into this? Any idea for a solution? Thanks!
  5. Moin. Ich suche nach einer Möglichkeit einen Druck verzögert zu starten. Konkret geht es bei mir um folgendes. Ich habe einen Druckvorgang den ich mittels "Pause at Height" nach ca 5 Stunden Pausiere. In dieser Pause lege ich Metallplätchen in den Druck und starte diesen wieder. Jetzt wäre es schön wenn der Druck nachts beginnen würde und morgens wenn ich zur Arbeit komme kurz vor der Pause wäre. Also ca 4,5 Stunden bevor ich zur Arbeit komme mit den Druck anfängt. Ich stelle mir vor das es da einen Gcode Befehl oder ein Plugin nach dem Motto warte 10 Stunden gibt den man einbauen kann. Ich muss jedoch dabei sagen das ich noch nie selber Hand an den Gcode gelegt habe oder hier in Cura spezielle Anpassungen vorgenommen habe. Ich drucke mit Cura 4.11 und gedruckt werden soll auf einem Ultimaker S5 Danke schon mal für eure antworten
  6. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty. **** I used two materials for testing, Extrudr TPU Soft and Ninjaflex, both 85A. I used the regular feeder from the UM2+ , combined with a pancake stepper motor (LDO-42STH25-1404MAC#190920) this stepper is less than half the weight of the normal stepper. I had to cut some length of the shaft to make it fit. The stepper has a different # steps per rotation and as it's impossible to change the steps setting for the S5 on one feeder it needs compensation in flow (200% flow = 100%) Obviously the result is a crazy top heavy setup, but if you just want to print an occasional gasket it should be fine, specially since you need to print materials this flexible very slow (15 mm/s) anyhow. On an Ultimaker2 the extra weight is enormous, on the S5 not so much as it's very heavy already anyhow. The nice thing is you can see into the feeder so during testing it's easy to spot when the feeder can't cope if you try to speed it up to much. If something goes wrong it's mainly during the first few layers, so watch them... otherwise you'll spend a few minutes again taking the feeder apart... To validate the basic setup I printed regular PLA on both converted machines, to make sure the setup (including changed steps/flow due to different motor) was correct. On the UM2 head the ninjaflex was pretty easy to get working, i managed to print with constant and reliable extrusion using a 0.4 nozzle. The materials prints best around (I tested with 0.15 layers) Flow : 110-115 % (with feeder tension set to lowest point) Temperature : 210 c Speed : 15 to 20 mm/s The easiest way to test temperature and flow is by printing simple cilinders, foir the S5 you can use the "tune" menu to play with values on the fly. Getting ninjaflex to work on the S5 proved to be more difficult than on the UM2, at the same settings using an 0.4 mm nozzle prints failed all the time, it seems the CORE, is much more of a challenge that a UM2 setup. I blame the longer filament path, and the metal tube of the core. Only when I changed to the 0.8 nozzle and the CC0.6 I was able to get reliable results. My main S5 tests are with the CC0.6, atm my best results are with the following settings; The S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates. Layer height 0,15 Initial layer height 0,25 Top/bottom pattern & Innitial layer pattern ; concentric (avoid lot's of small lines, head vibration) Innitial printing temperature/ innitial layer : 230c Printing teperature : 215c Skirt/Brim flow 140% (= realy 70%, due to the different stepper motor) Innitial layer flow 150% (= realy 75%, due to the different stepper motor) Flow 225% (= 2x the real flow, due to the different stepper motor) Print speed 15 mm/s Innitial layer speed, Skirt/Brim speed 10mm/s Cooling at 100%, start with 20% and let it rise over 10 layers) Turn off the flow sensor (in the settings menu) on the S5, as you're not using that feeder.. Conclusion, even if you eliminate the bowden, printing 85A flex on an Ultimaker S5 is still a bit of a challenge. The used feeder (UM2+UM3 model) and filament path are not ideal. But, usually if you make it past the first few layers, and have relatively simple prints that keep the flow going it's very well possible to print ninjaflex on the S5. I have not experimented a lot with it jet, but I also managed a simple test print using PLA for support on the 2th extruder. the hardware hack; The feeder plate mounts to 3 screws of the head, so you can leave one and the head will stay assembled during mounting. I made a little breakout plug for the left stepper motor on the back of the printer, so I can change between direct and bowden in just a few minutes. I just leave the black mounting plate on the head. In needed to make a hole in the bottom plate for the DIY extension cable. I isolated the plug with hot glue. some side notes; Cura can sometimes create fantastic vibrator g-codes, not nice with this heavy setup, so one thing you can do to prevent this is to change line fill to cylindrical fill, and check the layer preview. ninjaflex openRC wheel, printed on S5 extrudr TPU soft (85A just like ninjaflex) gasket, printed on S5 S5 stl's S5_FlexDirect.zip
  7. Hi all! This morning, I got a startup screen which looks like the attached image and says: "U-Boot 2016.05-ultimaker-00017-g68b3b1c (Apr 09 2018 - 14:28:14 *0200) Allwinner Technolo....U-Boot 2016.05-ultimaker-00017-g68b3b1c (Apr 09 2018 - 14:28:14 *0200) Allwinner Technolo....". And after that I can't read anymore because the text continues off screen. We have had the printer for a week and run 5 successful PLA print with only the AA core. We have not used the printer in developer mode. We have only printed with PLA so far. The longest print it has done is ca 4 hours. The last thing I did to it yesterday was finishing a small print (40min), pressing "Confirm print removal" and turning it off. Removing the print afterwards. The only thing that I can think of which I might have done incorrectly is doing the actions too quickly and the last ones in the wrong order. I usually let the printer cool down for 15 min before removing the print. Please let me know if you guys think these actions might have caused the presumable firmware issue and I will be less hasty next time. The startup will not continue after this. I tried restarting it and waiting for 20 minutes. I tried re-attaching the power cable and the Internet cable. I've tried turning it on with the original USB in it and without (read a forum post about that helping). I've also read this and am thus not trying the re-flash: And sent an email to the company which we bought it from to receive support, still waiting for an answer. I'm posting here to that people in the future will receive an answer to this problem, and it would also be great if anyone on this forum knew about a fix I can perform and not have to send the printer away to be repaired/firmware recovered for at least a week. I'll keep the post updated and write an answer in it if I receive one outside of the forum. Oh and by the way, if you buy the US5 in Sweden, make sure to save the box and everything it came in! The official supporter in Sweden just told me that if we send the printer to them for repair without the original box, they cannot guarantee that it will survive the shipping. Which seems logical enough, but most people don't save the boxes. So, keep the cardboard if you ever need to send it for repair. Thank you all very much! Best Elin
  8. Is anybody familiar with the Olimex Board that sits inside the S5, first version. We have a faulty USB port, and it's not the cable. Olimex.com has several versions listed for the A20 board. But wich one is the correct one? A20-OLinuXino-LIME2 A20-OLinuXino-LIME2-e16Gs16M A20-OLinuXIno-LIME2-n8G A20-OLinuXino-LIME2-s16M T2-OLinuXino-LIME2-e8Gs16M-IND T2-OLinuXino-LIME2-IND T2-OLinuXino-LIME2-s16M-IND
  9. Struggled for two days trying to understand why neither print head would feed (both brand new) then learned the front fan is critical to not allowing the whole print head to get too hot and cause clogs. Material would feed on load but then start to bind at the rear feeders. I found excess PCA material at the top entrance of the BB print head. Finally connected it to the fan which was somewhat dirty with lint. I have cleaned it now but it does not seem to spin when the print heads are in heating mode. Is there a diagnostic mode I can run to turn on the front fan so I can determine for sure this part has failed? Thanks! -p
  10. I really wish there was a way to use something like the Ultimaker Android app to rewrite a bad or missing RFIDs. I got new material and every single spool has a blank RFID. I don't know if it's just getting reset in the mail or they never got written in the factory but now I am taking RFIDs off empty spools to make them print. This is becoming more common and is now pretty much a regular occurance. Now is it the FBI scanning all my mail because they hate my politics or is it just my bad luck, dunno. The best solution is to give the app the ability to rewrite the missing or reset RFID. Right now I am using an old ABS Black RFID on my new blue spools and the amount left is just a question mark. Worse is since I only have one ABS RFID I can't have it switch automatically to the next spool.
  11. Hello everyone, is there an easy way to mount the filament spools to the side of the Ultimaker S5? We do not have enough space in depth to mount the spools behind the S5. Our preferred solution would be to mount them sideways, without loosing the NFC functionalities. Best regards Igor
  12. Is this a true message: “Material Ultimaker TPU 95A Black is not recommended for print core ?? 0.4”
  13. The mandatory cooldown time forcing the bed to drop below 60C is really quite frustrating when trying to print higher temp materials which require enclosures and higher ambient temperatures. When I'm printing ABS with a 100C build plate I really need to let it warm for like 30-60 minutes to ensure that the ambient temp in the printer is high enough that I don't get warping and layer splitting. If I have a failed print due to something like I just did where the autolevel decided to ram my nozzle very far into the build plate at one spot I basically loose 2hrs of print time as I need to let the thing fully cool down. I then need to let it fully warm up and get the air back to the required 35C ambient before I can tell it my print has been removed and then restart my print. I get this is a safety feature to prevent people from trying to rip prints off a hot glass bed and either damage themselves or the printer but there needs to be an advanced options menu to skip this for these kind of scenarios. The skip cooldown option that comes up doesn't seem to do anything here when it isn't greyed out. I am missing something basic or is there a way to disable or change this safe cooldown temp with a variable or something? At this point I'm basically taking files home from my lab and printing them on my home printer (a Voron 2.4) as it does ABS better than this one. Users at some of our other sites ask me if they should replace their Prusa MK3s with S5s and honestly I'm having a hard time saying yes. At face value this printer will handle these higher temp materials better and hardware wise it's superior but then the limitations int he firmware for stuff like this make it very hard to recommend.
  14. There were many posts about active leveling or the cool-down stage, an essential feature of the printer to have a safe and easy experience. But for more advanced users or users with special needs for their workflow, there was often the wish to have more flexibility with some configurations. In several postings, you can find hints on how to disable the active leveling or shorten the cool-down stage at the end of a print job. All these workarounds need some Linux skills and how to work with (my beloved) vi editor. Not an easy task for someone who never logged in to a Linux machine. That's the point where UltiTuner kicks in. It is a small helper tool to make it easy for everyone to tweak the printer configuration. But first of all, some side notes and a big disclaimer: I don't work for Ultimaker. I wrote this tool for my personal use, but then I thought, why not make it public that everyone can profit from it. The software was created and tested with the utmost care. But if something goes wrong, neither Ultimaker nor I am responsible if the printer no longer works as usual or breaks. **USE THIS TOOL AT YOUR OWN RISK AND RESPONSIBILITY** So what can you do with that tool? Enable/Disable the active leveling Change the safeToTouch temperature, which is used for the cool-down stage. A much higher value shortens the stage to whatever you want. Clear the print bed message or awaiting cleanup after aborting Restart or reboot the printer Permanently enable the SSH daemon regardless of the developer mode You can use this tool with the S3 and the S5. The older UM3 is currently not supported. Some things don't make much sense with the UM3, because you can disable the active leveling there from the menu. If you are interested, you can find the latest release on GitHub https://github.com/SmithyAT/UltiTuner with more information and how to use it. What is planned? Clear the printer state after aborting a print job in an early stage (pre print phase) so that you can send another job without the need to go to the printer and confirm the message on display. -> Done I am also open for other ideas 🙂 Thanks to @gr5 for helping with the beta testing.
  15. The layers lay unevenly, folds appear. Coolers work. It appears only under overhanging elements. I print with support. Appear stably from the same side (on the right side of the part when viewed from the front of the printer)
  16. I started getting the error "Difference between detected height of both PrintCores exceeds realistic values” I checked the leveling and as I was doing so I realized that the right B core is really quite significantly protruding below the level of the left core A. How can I fix this?
  17. I am printing with PLA using PVA support material. Internal edges of big openings are not printing nicely but are rounded. Is this an adhesion issue? Something else? Thanks very much, Jake Kittell Research Engineer University of Vermont
  18. Our s5 has been busy printing 24 hours a day for months now without an issue but yesterday had a meltdown ! I arrived at the machine to see it banging its head against the print plate repeatedly ! Turns out the nozzle had somehow got blocked and the plastic was dispensing under the cover and eventually forced the front cover down and then this caught on the print baseplate. This has raised a few questions - - if the printer could see it was not getting to the correct location to print why did it keep printing material ? - If the printer could see it was not getting to the correct location why did it not stop instead of just repeatedly banging its own head into the base plate ? - Is there anywhere i can get an exploded parts view as o need a couple of new parts
  19. When trying to start a print or do a leveling test. The print bed raises 10cm and stops, the motor start making loud loices and lowers the print bed. and the error code apers in the screen "The capacitive sensor has low preformence. ER45". The problem sudenly whent away. i dont know if it just was some debri in the print bed screw. Anyone that have had the same probler? And know why it happend? IMG_1057.zip
  20. Hallo alle zusammen, Ich habe seit einigen Wochen folgendes Problem bei meinem Ultimaker S5 und finde einfach keine Lösung dafür. Wenn ich Bauteile drucke bei der er lange Zeit (<30 min) nur PLA druckt, dann gibt er mir beim Wechsel auf PVA häufiger mal aus dass das Material leer sei. Das Material ist orginales Ultimaker PVA natural. Es ist hierbei egal ob ich alte Rollen oder gerade neu gekauft Rollen PVA verwende, es kommt immer das selbe Ergebnis dabei raus. Die Düse hab ich bereits gereinigt, den Schlauch ebenso. Den Feeder hab ich auseinandergebaut und gereinigt. Meine Druckeinstellungen für das PVA sind folgende: Drucktemp.: 215°C Standby Temp.: 175°C Fluss: 100% Druckgeschw.: 30 mm/s Kann ich da außer an den oben genannten Einstellungen noch andere Druckparameter ändern, die mir da helfen könnten oder ist das eher ein Hardwareproblem? Also das mein Sensore oder meine Düse nicht mehr richtig funktioniert? Danke schonmal im voraus und Viele Grüße
  21. The slider bar for the print head fell out of the slider blocks during printing, and when I push it back, it does not seem to snap in very tight? Does that slider block wear out or have a trick or a clamp? Can I glue the bar back to the clips or does it need to have some movement?
  22. Had been using unsupported materials, setting them up in Cura, it was all going fine. Then for some reason, the filaments won't extrude on loading, almost seems like the print core is not getting hot enough? I've cleaned and cleaned and if I go back to PLA or a supported material then it works. I can get a PC+CF to load/extrude load. But two kinds of Nylon+CF and a support material won't extrude on loading or printing. And I had that support material working perfectly. It all started after I went into setting and added/updated the materials in Cura, I think that is what caused it. What went wrong?
  23. print surface has small holes, is there any product that could be used to fill these holes? ( like on wallboard or any wall we fill putty, like on any sheetmetal work of automobile during manufacturing we fill silica sealant to seal the gaps/holes and make the parts surfaces look better) do we have any such product in 3D printing, to fill the holes and make the print look better. we used LA blue for printing.
  24. Hallo zusammen, wir haben ein Problem mit unserem S5. Der Drucker druckt nur die ersten Sekunden, danach kommt erst weniger dann gar kein Material mehr. Das Problem besteht mit verschiedenen Druckköpfen und lässt sich auch nicht lösen wenn man den Druckkopf in die 2. Position einsetzt. Das komische ist, wurde der Drucker über Nacht ausgeschaltet läuft er meistens am nächsten Tag wieder Problemlos. Sobald man aber einen zweiten Druck starten will, kommt der "Fehler" wieder. Folgendes Ablauf fand statt: Erster Tag: Druck gestartet. Kein Material mehr nach 3 min.. Druckkopf gereinigt mit Reinigunsfilament > Funtionierte am Anfang problemlos. Danach konnte weiter gedruckt werden. Irgendwann kam der Fehler das er nicht mehr auf die Temperatur kommt.Nach Neustart ging er wieder. Danach wieder kein Druckbild. Wieder versucht zu reinigen, wieder nicht auf Temperatur gekommen. Druckkopf gegen einen neuen getauscht. Konnte nicht aufheizen. Drucker ausgeschaltet. Zweiter Tag: Druckkopf auf Position 2 gewechselt. Druck 2.5 Std. funktioniert problemlos. Direkt im Anschluss nächstes Teil gestartet. Wieder das gleiche Problem wie am Vortag. Ultimaker Cura Version 4.11.0 Ultimaker Firmware Version 7.0.0 Material Ultimaker Tough PLA schwarz Wenn jemand eine Idee hat wäre super. Grüße Sascha
  25. Hey folks Where I work, we have a shared login to upload all recent settings from Cura Backups (for each workstation to be relatively synchronized), and all has been going well. However, at some point, one of our staff must have been greeted by the "Select a Printer" intro screen instead of immediately updating the Cura Backup, which has created a rogue machine (an Ultimaker 3 with ID "ultimakersystem-0030d6229ead") that will not allow itself to be deleted for longer than a few seconds. Once it's deleted in Cura from the list of printers, it loads right back in, with a nice optimistic message "New Printer Added From your Ultimaker Digital Factory Account!" I have logged in to the Digital Factory and checked my list of printers, and it is NOT THERE. Thus I can't remove it, and yet it pops back exery time and really screws with our workflow. Can anyone help me with this? The general tip I've seen of "oh, just go into your printers list and delete it" does NOT seem to be applicable in this instance. I've tried. Lord knows I've tried. We have an S5 and a MakerBot Replicator 2, which work perfectly with Cura. No issues there. Thanks in advance for any guidance someone can give. BusinessUser
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