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I would like to build a top cover for my ultimaker 2 to keep the heat inside when printing with ABS. I read a lot it would help for wrapping, but I don't find examples.

Has anyons build a top cover for Ultimaker 2? Can you share a photo so I can get some inspiration?

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Please be careful. I'm always a bit worried when people start to completely encase a significant heat source. There has been at least one heavy accident with an encased 3D printer so far.

Think about what might happen if the hotend suddenly fails to stop heating. Ultimaker has tested this case for an not encased printer and found it safe. But situation is completely different for a printer inside a box.

Edited by Guest

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Please be careful. I'm always a bit worried when people start to completely encase a significant heat source. There has been at least one heavy accident with an encased 3D printer so far.

Think about what might happen if the hotend suddenly fails to stop heating. Ultimaker has tested this case for an not encased printer and found it safe. But situation is completely different for a printer inside a box.

@ Dim3nsioneed: Thank you for this addon.

This is exactly the reason why I have not closed the top completely. The hot air has the chance to move out.

As Dim3nsioneer said, be carefull...

Edited by Guest

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I think I remember that once @anders-olsson showed a photo of his um2 box and was just a brilliant cheap plastic box (the ones used to save winter clothes). But I can't seem to find the post...

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@dim3nsioneer Thanks for the adivce I will be carefull. I don't want to close it completely, just something to catch some hot air of flowing away. I was thinking of a sort of top cover with the back side of the cover open (e.g. plastic box with no back side) for the bowden tube and I wouldn't close the front.

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I made a transparent acrylic cover and front door for my U2 and love it. It's not an air-tight fit, but keeps enough heat in so the ambient temp stays around 80c (I believe that was the temp when I measured it last year with my Fluke w/temperature wire). I didn't really go off any plans or measurements and just eye-balled it so the cables going to the gantry never touch the top. I angled the front piece back a bit so I could look down on top of the print head. Again, the angle was dictated by where the cables to the gantry end up with the head at the front-most position. I tweaked someone's hinge model to be a little smaller for my door. I drilled a hole through the white face and inserted some magnets. The screw that holds the door handle in place keeps the door closed against the magnets.

11822860_10153608357227526_2242707615136729913_n.jpg?oh=e9562e3663dcb096080cd42727ac0186&oe=567E8A85

11872054_10153608357267526_8890552065831783280_o.jpg

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For ABS, I really recommend closing the printing chamber. Here's my printer:

front_view_201508.thumb.jpg.2a721fd39fc96db1c2a9524e62bd83ae.jpg

rear_view_201508.thumb.jpg.cc9b7afad2999da10a58b38ec9369817.jpg

Actually, I have found it important to make the enclosure pretty tight. If there are holes/gaps in the enclosure, you'll feel the smell of ABS much more strongly.

The enclosure also helps in reducing noise from fans. In my case that's quite important, not least as I have added cooling for the print head.

front_view_201508.thumb.jpg.2a721fd39fc96db1c2a9524e62bd83ae.jpg

rear_view_201508.thumb.jpg.cc9b7afad2999da10a58b38ec9369817.jpg

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