Popping extruder

[Proxes 1]

Hi there guys and girls ,

I recently bought a ultimaker 2 extended. I love the machine only i got a little problem.

The extruder 'pops' on the rear, even when i print with the standard settings of cura.

It looks like the engine that pushes the filament in isn't strong enough or something. Its slips back like a quarter of a round when it pops.

does anyone of you know why the extruder pops and how to prevent it?

besides, any tips and tricks with the UM2 are welcome

Already thanks guys !

[DidierKlein 729]

The sound you hear is a protection for the motor. It tries to push the filament but for a reason or another it can't so to prevent the motor from damage it skips a step (making a "Tac" sound).

This can happen for multiple reasons, print parameters incorrect (to cold, or to fast or both), partially clogged nozzle, friction in the bowden, bad filament (over 3mm).

Do you have any problems for your prints (underextrusion?), does it happen at the beggining of the print (bed too close).

For guides you can have a look at this one it's a good start

Edited May 27, 2015 by Guest

[Proxes 1]

The sound you hear is a protection for the motor. It tries to push the filament but for a reason or another it can't so to prevent the motor from damage it skips a step (making a "Tac" sound).

This can happen for multiple reasons, print parameters incorrect (to cold, or to fast or both), partially clogged nozzle, friction in the bowden, bad filament (over 3mm).

Do you have any problems for your prints (underextrusion?), does it happen at the beggining of the print (bed too close).

For guides you can have a look at this one it's a good start

Okay, but is it normal that it does 'tac' with standard cura settings? (50mm/s ; 2.0mm^/s)

I have cleaned the nozzle as they advice here:

it all came out clear. I personnaly don't expect the nozzle to be clogged because I am only printing for like a week or so.

I do have underextrusion, and as i sad before, under standard cura settings..

If i put the speed down to like 45mm/s and some adjustments to the infill speed etc. I am able to print without underextrustion, but in my believe the printer should be capable to print way faster. (at least thats what i read on some forums)

Is there a standard what your UM2 should be capable of? like 8mm^3/s or anything like it?

And if there is, is there a particular way to test it?

thanks for the guides, I'm gonna take a look at em!

[DidierKlein 729]

You can test the extrusion with the cylinder test

You have to put the temp to 230°c for this test.

On average a UM2 should be able to do 7mm3/s approximately, it's possible to do more with some modification (for me the Feeder from IRobertI is a good start).

What filament are you using? And what is the temperature?

[Proxes 1]

I tried to download the test, but when i click the highlighted 'here' it does open the ultimaker dashboard site in stead of the Gcodes of the test. I dont get a download either.

I use PLA at a temperature of 210 degrees.

[gamerfanatic 1]

I hope you get a chance to read this but there is a really obvious issue to this that tends to be the culprit.

Sometimes you can have "too good" of a level (of the bed). If your level is "too close" it is hard to push filament out of the nozzle. Especially on the initial layer. This was the issue that I was having and it turned out to be related to the bed leveling.

[Proxes 1]

I hope you get a chance to read this but there is a really obvious issue to this that tends to be the culprit.

Sometimes you can have "too good" of a level (of the bed). If your level is "too close" it is hard to push filament out of the nozzle. Especially on the initial layer. This was the issue that I was having and it turned out to be related to the bed leveling.

That could be the problem yes, but that should be only on the bottom layers, am i right?

The problem i have is that when it needs to push more then like 3mm^3/s uit, it will just pop and start to under extrude. (just as my latest print :( )

The under extrusion happens after like 2/3 hours printing and is solved after 5/6 hour (just guesses). Can that also be related to the bed leveling?

[DidierKlein 729]

No!

Bed level can cause this only on the first layer (if too close).

Does this happen on any print? Some heavy retraction prints can cause some under extrusion because the filament gets flattened by the feeder.

So you use PLA at 210°c that's good. But what is the layer height?

[Proxes 1]

No!

Bed level can cause this only on the first layer (if too close).

Does this happen on any print? Some heavy retraction prints can cause some under extrusion because the filament gets flattened by the feeder.

So you use PLA at 210°c that's good. But what is the layer height?

okay, thanks. The bed layar is correct then. I have no problems there.

The layer height is 0,2.

It does indeed happen at prints wit heavy retraction, but also at prints with more then a certain amount of mm^3/s. I believe it is 3, but i cant test it because the link to the Gcodes doesn't work anymore. At least not at my pc:P

[DidierKlein 729]

The link seems broken. I have that gcode somewhere but i'm not at home at the moment so i can't share it.

Anyone has the cylinder test gcodes and can share them?

[Proxes 1]

Okay, that doesn't matter. If you have em anywhere this week or so that will be great!

I'm currently running a print of 23 hours so i can't print it anyway haha

[JohnFox 25]

How full is the spool?

I have had problems when the spool is less than half full, the PLA was so tightly coiled it couldn't feed correctly, it's like trying to undo a spring. Uncoiling by hand fixed the problem.

I'm gong to rewind onto a coil holder, ( bigger diameter ).

[jeex 35]

Do you use a the filament guide? My UM2 had a strange sound on the back and it was a twisted line of filament on the wheel. As the filament feeder has quite some strenght it pulls the filament out of the twist. That says "clack".

The filament guide i printed helps prevend, but it still happens sometimes.

[gr5 2,268]

50mm/sec .2mm layer .4 nozzle is 4mm^3/sec. Which is really pusing it at 210C. And some temp sensors read high so you might actually be closer to 205C or even 200C. If you really want to print this fast I recommend 240C which works great at these relatively high (but still reasonable) printing volumes.

Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

20mm/sec at 200C

30mm/sec at 210C

40mm/sec at 225C

50mm/sec at 240C

The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

If you want to print parts much faster than this then I recommend getting a larger nozzle such as a .6mm nozzle.

[Proxes 1]

hi guys,

I did a extrusion test, and i am very satisfied.

It went up to 6mm^3/s without any problems, then between 7 and 9 there were some thin lines, but no interuptions. It failed at 10mm^3/s. I found out that i had to print with a higher temp. I changed the temp from 210 to 225. No problems anymore! Thanks for your help guys!

[Proxes 1]

50mm/sec .2mm layer .4 nozzle is 4mm^3/sec.  Which is really pusing it at 210C.  And some temp sensors read high so you might actually be closer to 205C or even 200C.  If you really want to print this fast I recommend 240C which works great at these relatively high (but still reasonable) printing volumes.

Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers):

20mm/sec at 200C

30mm/sec at 210C

40mm/sec at 225C

50mm/sec at 240C

The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion.

If you want to print parts much faster than this then I recommend getting a larger nozzle such as a .6mm nozzle.

Thanks, ill consider the .6mm nozzle.

Also thanks for the recommended speeds, awesome help!

[Proxes 1]

Do you use a the filament guide? My UM2 had a strange sound on the back and it was a twisted line of filament on the wheel. As the filament feeder has quite some strenght it pulls the filament out of the twist. That says "clack".

The filament guide i printed helps prevent, but it still happens sometimes.

I use the normal guide, delivered by the UM2. Do you have a printed one?

[Proxes 1]

How full is the spool?

I have had problems when the spool is less than half full, the PLA was so tightly coiled it couldn't feed correctly, it's like trying to undo a spring. Uncoiling by hand fixed the problem.

I'm gong to rewind onto a coil holder, ( bigger diameter ).

I don't think the spool is the problem at my printer, but thanks for the tip!

[jeex 35]

I use the normal guide, delivered by the UM2. Do you have a printed one?

My UM2 came without it, so i printed it. That was my first print and it came out perfect.

Edited June 1, 2015 by Guest

[Proxes 1]

I use the normal guide, delivered by the UM2. Do you have a printed one?

My UM2 came without it, so i printed it. That was my first print and it came out perfect.

ah okay, nice one then!

[gr5 2,268]

I don't like the filament guides. I usually print with the filament on the floor so that it enters the feeder vertically. Especially on the UM2GO which is even worse (the feeder is even lower on the printer compared to the filament spool).