Aluminum Extrusion (2020) UM2 Printer

[gris 6]

Here are some pics

Here is a close look at the print head with direct drive

As you can see on this series of pic one the rod just pull out of the Gantry X Axis Front Right

Here a look at the LED strip

And here an exemple of the only thing I print before the Granty X axis event.

The bleu is Glow PLA in dark and the dark logo is ABS.

The mark on the back is because the PLA didnt stick well

Edited January 26, 2016 by Guest

[jhertzberg 19]

gris, I am intrigued by the "wings" on the head. Is that to direct airflow from a crossflow fan?

Edited January 27, 2016 by Guest

[gris 6]

It is for the futur Blowers 40x40x10mm 12V DC Fan that I didnt order yet.

Like this one

Edited January 27, 2016 by Guest

[JATMN 6]

I have been building this printer as well recently.. but I ran into an issue with my ulticontroller. :( I know its cheap china crap issue likely.. but I cant get any stepper to move on E1 (move filament or load filament) doesn't do anything..

[ultiarjan 1,223]

I have been building this printer as well recently.. but I ran into an issue with my ulticontroller. :( I know its cheap china crap issue likely.. but I cant get any stepper to move on E1 (move filament or load filament) doesn't do anything..

 

and you are doing a full test with the heater one I assume? You are aware there's a protection that the extruder won't work below a certain temperature?

[JATMN 6]

 

I have been building this printer as well recently.. but I ran into an issue with my ulticontroller. :( I know its cheap china crap issue likely.. but I cant get any stepper to move on E1 (move filament or load filament) doesn't do anything..

 

and you are doing a full test with the heater one I assume? You are aware there's a protection that the extruder won't work below a certain temperature?

 

Yea I read about that.. I confirmed the heater was to proper temps.. I have a actual UM2 sitting next to me as well..

I also found out that because I couldn't finish my build due to delays in customs for other parts I had on order.. I cant open a depute on this controller because im less than a day late of the cut of.. *crys*

[JATMN 6]

Is there a way to switch over to E2 in the firmware? Disable E1 vs Disable E2?

[neotko 1,417]

Compine the marlin firmware for your um2 chaging the pins.h editing the extruder pins. China boards use to be poorly finished so, use extra cooling.

[JATMN 6]

Compine the marlin firmware for your um2 chaging the pins.h editing the extruder pins. China boards use to be poorly finished so, use extra cooling.

 

OMG thats totally what I was looking for!! will report back my results for everyone else..

Also thanks for the heads up.. thought it was interesting the board came with little heatsinks.. ill be sure to put a fan on this thing lol

[JATMN 6]

Didn't work.. :(

Section 72  for pins.h

Was..

 

#define E0_STEP_PIN         42#define E0_DIR_PIN          43#define E0_ENABLE_PIN       37#define E1_STEP_PIN         49#define E1_DIR_PIN          47#define E1_ENABLE_PIN       48

 

Is..

 

#define E0_STEP_PIN         49#define E0_DIR_PIN          47#define E0_ENABLE_PIN       48#define E1_STEP_PIN         42#define E1_DIR_PIN          43#define E1_ENABLE_PIN       37

 

didnt make a difference.. put known working steppers on both E1 and E2 at same time didnt even make them buzz.. this was in repeater/s3d as well as "move material" from the display. all with hotend heated to 190-210C   :(

Edited January 30, 2016 by Guest

[neotko 1,417]

X/y/z work? If so change connector to see if it's the motors or just the board that it's dead.

[neotko 1,417]

Just wondering... The safety1/2 jumpers are connected right?

[JATMN 6]

Yea jumper's both there. And my steppers work on X Y Z but none of them work on e1 or e2 have both .9 and 1.8 steppers and it won't buzz either motor type.. If I move the motor to X Y Z works fine

[JATMN 6]

I spent several hours on this.. I was able to cross the extruder over to the Z plug header.. but I was never able to get the Z to work on E1 or E2.. really sucks because I *think* that is all thats wrong with the board :(

[emanuel 0]

You can have Misumi add some options to the profiles that makes joining them accurately and very strong (!) super easy.

 

How did you managed to order from them? Did you order it on a company or from US?

The european website says they only handle companies.

[emanuel 0]

I have made one with little change + direct drive and the final price for the all thing is 520,47 € with little extra nuts, screw polley etc... it take 788g of ABS to build ( 17.10€ for me ) but without E3D V6 ( 57€ ) so you can build it for a total cost of 595 €.

[/media-thumb]

 

do you care to share the places where you bought that stuff? I keep looking for extruded aluminum and either they want me to buy their entire production, are extremely expensive or only want companies...

your prices seem very good

If they are from China, what is the import taxes for you? What is the "free" limit? Just curious, as I can see different EU countries have different import taxes.

Thanks

[nilrog 103]

Unless you specifically need Misumi brand/quality...

I haven't checked how much shipping would cost...but Motedis seems to be reasonably priced. And you can have the extrusion cut to specific lengths. Not sure if they have a specific site for Denmark, but they do for Sweden. I think they are based in Germany.

http://www.motedis.com/shop/

A slightly different, and probably overkill for this case, extrusion are the V-Slot extrusions. They are available in Europe also through http://www.ratrig.com

Again, I haven't compared these prices against the ones above that you refer to. So this might still be more expensive.

[jonnybischof 60]

...

How did you managed to order from them? Did you order it on a company or from US?

The european website says they only handle companies.

 

I can make orders at Misumi from my workplace. Luckily, I do sometimes need Misumi parts at work so I can justify having an account there

If there is a local FabLab near you, you could ask them if they can make orders. As long as they have a registered VAT number, they should be able to make orders.

The easier way however is to just go for another brand / shop. There are several good aluminum extrusion systems out there.

I dare say Misumi probably has the most extensive (maybe expensive, too) and most customizable range of aluminum extrusions in the world. But for the Ultimaker frame you don't actually need much more than a bunch of straight, accurately cut, standard extrusions with some mounting options.

[lars86 42]

Bumping the thread to see if any more extrusion based printers have materialized!

[conny_g 251]

Hi all,

nice work!

I was wondering why I would want a UM2 clone with Alu frame.

Is it „because I can“ or is there advantages of doing so?

 

[nilrog 103]

That and cost...you could buy a Chinese clone frame also, but who knows what quality you receive.

[jonnybischof 60]

On the note of aluminum frames:

 

I must say that I don't like alu frames. They are strong and you can easily put stuff on them, but (precise) assembly is tricky because you have to put every beam together at the right point, check angles and so on. And the biggest disadvantage imo is the noise - aluminum frames seem to result in a more noisy machine overall. The stepper motor vibrations / noises get amplified by the aluminum (resonance). I don't like that...

 

I have gone back to my initial idea of making a frame from HPL material (Trespa Virtuon 8 mm in my case). But for that I need a good CNC machine up and running. Takes time and money :(

Edited January 10, 2018 by jonnybischof

[jasonatepaint 18]

On 1/10/2018 at 2:21 AM, jonnybischof said:

And the biggest disadvantage imo is the noise - aluminum frames seem to result in a more noisy machine overall. The stepper motor vibrations / noises get amplified by the aluminum (resonance). I don't like that...

 

This has not been the case, at least in my builds. My 2 aluminum extrusion printers are WAY more quiet than my official UM2. I use 4 big rubber feet on the bottom and it keeps the machine quiet. As far as motor noises/vibration it is minimal and as I said, worse on the official UM2 frame.  Vibration dampeners (rubber, cork) can be used as a thin interface between the 3D printed mount part and the frame, however I found that if tightened securely to the frame, I get no additional noise or vibrations. 

[lars86 42]

43 minutes ago, jasonatepaint said:

 

This has not been the case, at least in my builds. My 2 aluminum extrusion printers are WAY more quiet than my official UM2. I use 4 big rubber feet on the bottom and it keeps the machine quiet. As far as motor noises/vibration it is minimal and as I said, worse on the official UM2 frame.  Vibration dampeners (rubber, cork) can be used as a thin interface between the 3D printed mount part and the frame, however I found that if tightened securely to the frame, I get no additional noise or vibrations. 

 

 

 

Maybe the thought of extra noise is from people who kept the same paneled design, but made it aluminum. I could see more resonance and noise in that case.

[jonnybischof 60]

1 hour ago, jasonatepaint said:

 

This has not been the case, at least in my builds. My 2 aluminum extrusion printers are WAY more quiet than my official UM2. I use 4 big rubber feet on the bottom and it keeps the machine quiet. As far as motor noises/vibration it is minimal and as I said, worse on the official UM2 frame.  Vibration dampeners (rubber, cork) can be used as a thin interface between the 3D printed mount part and the frame, however I found that if tightened securely to the frame, I get no additional noise or vibrations. 

 

Do you use the regular stepper motor drivers, or silent ones like TMC2100?

I found that already manually moving the gantry made a lot of "aluminum" noise..