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How to avoid warping of Nylon ? Nylon while printing warps very quickly

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We tried printing Nylon in ultimaker , we are gald to inform that we successfully printing Nylon on Ultimaker, but one issue we are facing is that 3D object printed from Nylon warps such a way that it looses its asthetics.

We have tried using Kapton tape but kapton tape itself comes out with the object while it is warping.

Can anyone suggest that how we can avoid warping of Nylon in Ultimaker.

Any tips and techniques would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

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I have never printed Nylon myself, so I can't speak out of any personal experience but just repeat what I read online:

E3D-online had a printing plate specifically for printing Nylon. I bought one some time ago (but never used it to date o.O) and just wanted to look it up, but it's gone from their shop...

The material is called "Garolite", "Tufnol" or "Bakelite" (different brand names I believe).

You could use that instead of the UM2's glass printing plate, or mount it on an Ultimaker Original with some (large) foldback clips.

I read other reports saying that using rafts helps a lot, too. This doesn't solve the problem of Nylon not sticking to your printing plate, but rather works around it by reducing / changing the contact area of your printed parts to the plate.

/edit:

http://www.taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html

http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/3d-printing-with-nylon-618-filament-in.html

Edited by Guest

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I have had success printing small nylon parts (60mm by 30mm at base).  Advice varies.  I have tried two different nylons and the "Taulman Bridge" was definitely easier.  I have two critical questions for you before giving you any advice:

1) Which company and brand of nylon are you using?

2) What do you mean by "warp"?  Usually people mean the part lifts off the print bed - that's the simplest problem to fix and the most common.  But maybe you mean something different?

Edited by Guest

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Hello , I'm printing with Taulman nylon T glase and I use "the ruban blue tape " and it's perfect ;)

http://www.makershop.fr/produit/ruban-3m-2090-bluetape/

I have i question : the only problem when I print with nylon is that during the printing out of the nozzle becomes black. Whereas when I do the atomic method everything is ok,

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What temperature were you printing at? I found that I get occasional brown or black spots but not too many - the part is 99.9% white.

I haven't tried t-glase but taulman bridge is nice in that I can print it at a cooler temperature than other nylons such that I get less boiling of water going on and still get good layer bonding. "bridge" supposedly warps less also.

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